-THE- 

-JOHN  -FRYER- 
CHINESE-  LIBRARY 


/ 


'.'A, 


*••» 

It 

•  « 
»»»•» 


i  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

IN  1884, 


OR  SKETCHES  OP  TRAYEL  IN  TIE  EASTERN 
AND  WESTERN  HEMISPHERES. 


EMBRACING 


AN  ACCOUNT  OF  EUROPE,  EGYPT,  PALESTINE,  INDIA/CEYLON, 
STRAITS  SETTLEMENT,  CHINA,  JAPAN,  AND  AMERICA. 


BY  J.  B.  GORMAN. 


WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION  BY  PROF.  H.  A.  SCOMP, 

Emory  College,  Oxford,  Ga. 


"1  have  no  wife  nor  children,  good  or  bad,  to  provide  for.  A  mere  spec- 
tator of  other  men's  fortunes  and  "adventures,  and  how  they  play  their  parts, 
which,  methinks,  are  diversely  presented  unto  me,  as  from'a  common  theater 
or  scene." — Burtoti. 


ILLUSTRATED  EDITION; 


NASHVILLE,   TENX. : 
SOUTHERN  METHODIST  PUBLISHING  HOUSE. 

1886. 


& 


Lib. 
JOHN  FRYER 
CHINESE  LIBRARY 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1886, 

BY  J.  B.  GORMAN, 
in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


TO 

SIR  JOHN  R,  fc,  SIMLilft, 

CAITHNESS,  SCOTLAND, 

EIGHTH  BARONET  OF  DUNBEATH,  BARROCK  HOUSE, 

A  YOUNG  NOBLEMAN  OF  KARE  GOOD  'QUALITIES  OF  HEART 

AND  MIND,  WHOSE  DELIGHTFUL  COMPANIONSHIP  LENT  A  NEW 

CHARM  TO  MY  VOYAGE  AROUND  THE  WORLD— 

THESE  PAGES, 

AS  A  SLIGHT  TESTIMONIAL  OF  THE  AUTHOR'S  HIGH  REGARDS, 

Are  Most  Respectfully  Dedicated* 


747711 


PREFATORY  NOTE. 

FROM  my  boyhood  I  had  dreamed  of  a  voyage  around  the  world. 
I  had  stood  on  the  sea-shore  and  looked  upon  the  waves  as  they  dashed 
at  my  feet  in  restless  fury.  I  loved  the  grandeur  and  magnitude  of 
the  ocean ;  I  loved  to  watch  the  ships  from  Savannah  and  New  York 
come  and  go.  I  made  my  first  sea  voyage  when  a  boy,  and  since  that 
happy  period  my  restless  desire  and  love  of  adventure,  the  study  of 
nature  and  an  insatiable  thirst  for  knowledge,  have  carried  me  to 
many  distant  shores.  Europe  three  times  in  twelve  years,  the  West 
Indies,  Canada,  and  States  of  America,  but  increased  my  rambling  pro- 
pensities. My  own  country  was  youthful,  but  grand  in  the  physic- 
al aspects  of  nature.  Europe,  with  the  accumulated  knowledge  of 
ages,  its  treasures  of  art  and  historic  associations,  added  to  my  grat- 
ification and  charmed  me  with  its  study.  I  desired  to  see  even  more 
of  the  world,  to  gain  a  more  comprehensive  idea  of  man  in  the  va- 
rious forms  and  stages  of  his  civilization,  to  increase  my  knowledge 
and  general  information. 

God  in  his  wisdom  called  me  to  sustain  the  irreparable  loss  of  my 
beloved  and  devoted  mother.  I  lingered  in  the  shadow  of  her  la- 
mented death  for  nearly  one  year;  my  deep  affliction,  that  found 
only  support  in  prayer,  was  the  occasion  of  my  final  decision.  I 
was  about  to  realize  the  fond  hopes  of  my  boyish  anticipation.  I 
cherished  another  desire,  I  had  longed  to  be  gratified  with  this  love  of 
travel,  added  to  the  occasion  that  prompted  me  to  make  a  voyage 
around  the  world.  It  was,  while  living,  to  do  some  good.  "We 
live  in  the  deeds  of  life,  and  not  in  its  years."  We  long  to  leave 
some  monument  of  our  faith  and  work  behind.  I  want  these  sketches 
to  commemorate  these  sentiments.  Fame,  or  worldly  honor,  is  not 
my  aim.  A  loftier  desire  prompts  me  to  submit  these  sketches,  im- 
perfect as  they  are,  or  may  appear  to  a  critical  or  exacting  public 
opinion. 

To  be  always  accurate  in  impressions,  knowledge,  or  ideas,  formed 
while  traveling  rapidly — often  through  foreign  countries  with  Ian- 

(5) 


C  Prrfalnnj  Not*:. 


.HIM  i-niiivly  dill,  n  MI  from  your  «.\\n  ||  ini|><,  il,|.-, 
I  ;i|.|.n  li.-ii'l.  I  >i!l«  i<  nl  |M-I  ..'.n ..  ;  «•••  I  In-  :;mir  ohjrrtM  with  (lillm-nt 
Mii|>n-!iHioHH,  wliil<-  lln-  l.i'-l  in.-iv  l.t-  lli«-  ::inic. 

I   iiiin  ;tl    clone  htlldy   :nnl    |.i.i<li,:i|    ()I)HUrVatlol1,   uillia   vii-\\    t 
•in.n  v  in  ;  Lit  ••mi-ill ;,   l.rli.-viii"    lli:il    :ill  U  I  ID  |D||D\V  ln<-  in   my  \ 
\\ill    h;i\.    :i    l.iillilnl    :IIH!    pl..i   :uil    :n-r,,iiiil    «\    il.       I    li:m-    ;-.:il  IH-I  r.l 
up    in. in,    I.IM      lul       :iii'l    QUriOOi    Ililliv::.        I     Int.  I     NDII    \\ill    «M-| 
,,!,:,    iiriMtllll   I'K'lil  "ill  ..I    lln •   ,-,  :i      I    Ii:ivi-il»ni-.       I   r:iuiU)l  :nl\  i 

one  how  he  ought  to  look  at  the»e  '.i,j,-,-i  i  beyond  di  tantieaa.    1  pi-i- 

Mat  Ili'-in  i v  \\.iv,  .-mil  yOU  iDrin  yOUr OWn  ini|>i<-     [OB  , 

;i|,.,|i.vii-  .   l»  ..II. T.      I    nii-;lil  .-\|.i.-      :i  (It-hire   tluit    Ihi  .  r.lilii.n 

i><-    IKTC.-.I.-.I  hy  jnaiiy  othoi  ,  »»  i  .•  iciii  jive  :i  per  cent,  of  < 
i,,,,,i.  i  ...rii  to  the  million  work  and  schools  in  China,     \    ii  i   ii" 

pi  ,\  i|, •..,-  ,,|    I, ul    i.-u    t. .    in:iki-     iii-li     •  I    mi   I    il    ni;.\    I..-    ll.i- 

i,i.-.i  in.-  .if  niMiiy  i<i  read. 

'il,,-  uui-ii  I  ii  "i..\\  in '  i  M  h.  i  iii  knowledge  .-uni  IM-II.T  in  lift-  every 
.|:,v.     \    ii  ,,,,,,..  .-loser  together  by  the  cultivation  of  the ai 
peace  and  the  growth  of  a  ChrUtlan  civilization,  it  inn.-.t  ;. it;. in  to 
n   highe  i  development,  •'-  i;- 

,  QA«  Ootobei  '.  IHBO. 


INTRODUCTION. 

"I'll  put  it  girdle  round  about  the  earth  in  forty  minutes."— Puck,  in  "1//J- 
summer  flight's  Dream.1' 

A  TOUR  around  the  globe,  in  this  age  of  steam  and  well-ordered 
arrangements  for  travel,  is  no  extraordinary  undertaking.  It  can- 
not now  afinrd  tlu-  field  for  gross  exaggeration  and  blood-curdling 
stories  as  in  the  days  of  Magellan,  or  even  so  late  as  the  voyages  of 
Captain  Cook.  It  would  be  a  Munchausen  who  would  attempt  to 
impose  upon  the  public  any  tales  of  giants  or  pigmies,  griffins  or 
jrenii;  of  the  crocotta,  which  could  imitate  the  human  cry  and  lure 
men  to  destruction;  of  the  great  Indian  ants,  which  chased  travelers 
with  incredible  swiftness;  or  of  eight-toed  races,  toothed  and  gray- 
liaired  from  birth.  He  finds  no  fountains  whose  red  waters  compel 
the  drinker  to  reveal  all  the  secrets  of  his  past  life;  nor  trees  which, 
like  ina.irnets,  attract  animal  or  vegetable  substances;  nor  does  Ue 
meet  enormous  sea-serpents  floating  in  the  deep.  He  dares  not,  how- 
ever desirous,  follow  in  the  steps  of  the  old  chroniclers.  He  will 
never  vi>it  the  realm  of  Prester  John,  nor  look  upon  the  lovely  face 
of  the  beautiful  Angelica. 

Yet,  in  spite  of  all  this  complete  collapse  of  the  marvelous,  the 
real  world  allbrds  attractions  quite  as  great.  No  matter  how  often 
the  story  has  been  told,  it  is  ever  new.  The  skies  of  Italy  are  as 
blue,  the  isles  of  the  Levant  as  bright,  the  Pyramids  as  grand,  Jeru- 
salem as  sacred,  and  the  desert  as  desolate  now  as  to  the  wyageur 
of  a  thousand  years  ago.  There  is  no  monopoly  of  Ceylon's  "soft, 
spicy  breezes,"  nor  of  Australia's  "hot  December  blast."  Nor  Briton 
nor  Tartar  can  ever  rob  the  Ganges  of  its  wonderful  history.  The 
and  story  of  the  Orient  the  "moving  finger  once  has  writ,"  and 
n.-ver  can  be  lured  back  to  "cancel  half  a  line."  In  all  the  ch; 
of  this  strange  era  of  revolution  and  evolution,  the  past  at  least  is 
.  Its  history,  its  monuments,  its  consecrated  places,  are  beyond 
the  power  of  even  this  iconoclastic  age  to  destroy;  and  more  and  more 
will  the  mind,  weary  with  modern  theories  and  subleties,  turn  with 
U-esh  delight  to  the  past  to  find  "some  solid  ground  to  rest  upon." 

(  Hher  departments  of  literature  and  science  have  had  their  special 

(7) 


8  Introduction. 


eras— their  rise,  their  glory,  and  their  decline — but  the  records  of  his- 
tory and  travel  attract  the  attention  of  every  age  and  of  every  peo- 
ple; they  touch  upon  human  life  at  every  point. 

It  is,  then,  with  perfect  confidence  that  the  writer  commends  to 
an  indulgent  public  this  latest  contribution  to  the  great  library  of 
travel,  believing  that  the  reader  will  find  a  rich  repast  of-  entertain- 
ment and  instruction  in  its  pages. 

The  author,  Col.  John  B.  Gorman,  is  one  of  the  most  companion- 
able of  men ;  a  real  Southerner  in  every  fiber,  frank  and  open-hearted ; 
a  newspaper  man  by  profession,  a  gentleman  by  nature,  and  a  bachelor 
from  choice  (?).  His  endless  fund  of  anecdote,  his  hearty  laugh,  his 
original  ideas,  and  his  quaint  way  of  putting  even  the  most  common 
things,  render  him  the  conspicuous  figure  in  every  company  to  which 
he  may  belong.  Indeed,  his  fluency  and  inveteracy  as  a  talker  seem 
to  justify  the  remark  of  a  lady  friend,  who  upon  receiving  Colonel 
Gorman's  picture  declared  it  perfect  in  every  feature  except  "  the 
mouth,  which  she  had  never  seen  closed  before." 

Having  thrice  before  made  the  tour  of  Europe,  the  Colonel  is  by 
no  means  a  novice  at  traveling.  He  is  much  attached  to  the  mis- 
sionary work  in  China,  and  proposes  to  devote  a  share  of  the  proceeds 
of  his  book  to  the  missionary  schools  in  that  country.  A  large  por- 
tion of  the  people  of  Georgia,  as  well  as  many  from  other  States,  have 
a  direct  personal  interest  in  these  missionaries  and  their  work;  and 
the  information  furnished  concerning  them  will  add  another  attrac- 
tion to  the  book. 

But  after  all,  Colonel  Gorman  returns  to  his  Southern  home  more 
thoroughly  American  than  ever  before,  and  believing  "fifty  years 
of  Georgia  better  than  a  cycle  of  Cathay" — a  verdict  in  which  all 
true  sons  of  Columbia  will  heartily  agree. 

As  a  warm  personal  friend,  who  has  enjoyed  many  an  hour  of 
Colonel  Gorman's  rich  experiences,  the  writer  wishes  an  abundant 
success  to  this  his  first  book  venture;  and  he  doubts  not  that  the 
reader  will  be  amply  repaid  for  his  time  in  the  perusal  of  "A  Tour 
Around  the  World  in  1884."  H.  A.  SCOMP. 

EMORT  COLLEGE,  September  1, 1885. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I.  From  New  York  to  Liv- 
erpool   13 

CHAPTER  II.  Liverpool— Stratford 
—Trinity  Church 21 

CHAPTER  III.  Sight-seeing  in  and 
About  London 31 

CHAPTER  IV.  London  —  English 
Channel— Paris 45 

CHAPTER  V.  Sights  and  Scenes  in 
Paris 57 

CHAPTER  VI.  Excursion  Through 
Italy 65 

CHAPTER  VII.  Art  Treasures  of 
Rome 79 

CHAPTER  VIII.  Naples — Vesuvius 
—Pompeii 90 

CHAPTER  IX.  From  Naples  to  Mes- 
sina, Sicily 109 

CHAPTER  X.  In  Egypt— Alexandria 
and  Cairo 127 

CHAPTER  XI.  Cairo— Citadel— Pyr- 
amids— Museum 132 

CHAPTER  XII.  The  Great  Pyramids 
at  Gheezeh 145 

CHAPTER  XIII.  The  Mohammedan 
Religion  and  Christianity 155 

CHAPTER  XIV.  From  Cairo  to  Jop- 
pa— Ismailia  and  Port  Said 158 

CHAPTER  XV.  Landing  at  Jaffa- 
Through  the  City 164 

CHAPTER  XVI.  From  Jaffa  to  Jeru- 
salem— Orange  Culture — Ancient 
and  Modern  Times  Contrasted 
— Habits,  Customs,  etc.,  of  the 
People 173 

CHAPTER  XVII.  Jerusalem  from 
the  Tower  of  Hippicus., 192 


CIIAPTEB  XVIII.  In  and  Near  Je- 
rusalem   200 

CHAPTER  XIX.  Mount  Moriah — 
The  Mosque  of  Omar — The 
Wonderful  Rock — Mohammed's 
Dream 205 

CHAPTER  XX.  Around  the  Walls  of 
Jerusalem — The  Virgin's  Fount- 
ain— Pools  of  Siloam — Down  the 
Kidron,  or  Valley  of  Jehosha- 
phat— Return  Below  the  City  of 
Siloam — By  Absalom's  Tomb— 
Recross  the  Valley  Near  Geth- 
semane 210 

CHAPTER  XXI.  Ascent  of  Mount 
Olivet — View  from  its  Summit — 
Sights,  Scenes,  and  Holy  Places.  218 

CHAPTER  XXII.  By  Bethany  to  the 
Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan 225 

CHAPTER  XXIII.  Bethlehem— The 
Pools  of  Solomon  and  Mar  Sa- 
ba 239 

CHAPTER  XXIV.  India— Voyage  to 
Bombay 249 

CHAPTER  XXV.  Bombay— Curious 
People  — Sights  and  Scenes  — 
Towers  of  Silence— A  Hindoo 
Hospital — American  Street  Rail- 
way—Off  to  Delhi 260 

CHAPTER  XXVI.  British  India- 
Population— Railroads  —  Influ- 
ence on  Development — Schools 
— Zenana  Mission,  etc 277 

CHAPTER  XXVII.  The  Hindoos: 
Their  History,  Literature,  and 
Philosophy— The  Hindoo  Bible, 
etc 284 

(9) 


10 


Contents. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII.  Delhi-Its  P;u- 
aces  and  Monuments — Scenes 
in  the  Old  Mogul  Capital— A 
Drive  Through  Seven  Cities  in 
Ruins— Kootub  Minar 288 

CHAPTES  XXIX.  From  Delhi  to 
Cashmere,  Simla,  and  Return 304 

CHAPTER  XXX.  From  Delhi  to 
Benares  by  Agra,  Cawnpore, 
and  Allahabad 307 

CHAPTER  XXXI.  Farming  in  India 
—Cotton,  Wheat,  Barley,  Gram- 
Price  of  Labor,  etc 318 

CHAPTER  XXXII.  Cawupore  and 
Lucknow 325 

CHAPTER  XXXIII.  Benares,  its 
Shrines  and  Temples 334 

CHAPTER  XXXIV.  Down  the  Gan- 
ges   350 

CHAPTER  XXXV.  Arrival  m  Cal- 
cutta—The Great  Eastern  Hotel 
and  My  Morning's  Paper — De- 
scription—Sudden Departure 360 

CHAPTER  XXXVI.  Leaving  Calcut- 
ta for  Colombo,  Ceylon— Meeting 
Sir  John  Sinclair— We  Become 
Companions — The  Marriage  and 
Celebration  of  His  Birthday  in 
Scotland 370 

CHAPTER  XXXVII.  Incidents  of  the 
Voyage  to  Ceylon— Madras 384 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII.  Colombo-Its 
Charms— Arabi  Pasha— Visit  to 
Kandy— Sail  for  China  by  the 
"  Hydaspes,"  of  the  Peninsular 
and  Oriental  Line 593 

CHAPTER  XXXIX.  Observations  in 
and  About  Colombo 39G 

CHAPTER  XL.  Kandy— Tea  and  Co- 
coa Culture 405 

CHAPTER  XLI.  Planting  on  the  Isl- 
and of  Ceylon— Its  Vicissitudes 
—Coffee,  Cinchona,  Cocoa,  and 
Tea— Sugar  and  Cotton 413 


CHAPTER  XLII.  Christian  Progress 
and  the  American  Mission  in 
Ceylon , 427 

CHAPTER  XLI  1 1.  On  the  Indian 
Ocean — Straits  of  Malacca— Pe- 
nang,  Singapoi'e,  etc 430 

CHAPTKU  XL1V.  From  Singapore  to 
Hong  Kong 451 

CHAPTER  XLV.  Some  Account  of 
China — Chronological,  Historic- 
al, and  Geogaprhicai 465 

CHAPTER  XLVI.  From  Hong  Kong 
to  Canton— Boat  Life  and  Sight- 
seeing in  Canton 471 

CHAPTER  XLVII.  Temple  of  the 
Five  Hundred  Sages— Execution 
Grounds,  Examination  Hall,  etc..  483 

CHAPTER  XLVIII.  Returning  rom 
Canton — Amusements  of  the  Chi- 
nese— J7p  the  Coast  to  Shanghai..  493 

CHAPTER  XLIX.  In  the  City  of 
Shanghai 500 

CHAPTER  L.  Rambles— Sight-see- 
ing and  Fung  Shuey 518 

CHAPTER  LI.  Mission  Work— An- 
glo-Chinese College 530 

CHAPTER  LIT.  Cultivation  of  Tea 
and  its  Preparation  for  Market 
—Learning  the  Language 541 

CHAPTER  LIU.  Pigeon  English  Po- 
etry—Things Worth  Knowing...  552 

CHAPTER  LIV.  Last  Days  in  Shang- 
hai—Departure for  Japan 557 

CHAPTER  LV.  Description  of  the 
People,  Houses,  etc 565 

CHAPTER  LVI.  From  Nagasaki  to 
Yokohama 579 

CHAPTER  LVII.  Leaving  Yokoha- 
ma, Japan,  for  San  Francisco — 
Homeward  Bound— The  "City 
of  Pekin  "—Incidents  on  the 
Voyage,  etc 598 

CHAPTER  LVIII.  From  San  Fran- 
cisco to  Yosemite— Then  Home.  604 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

J.  B.  Gorman  (Frontispiece) |  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  London 

Westminster  Abbey 


33    Windsor  Castle  and  Park... 


Contents. 


11 


Right  Hon.  W.  E.  Gladstone... 

The  City  of  Lyons,  from  the  Park 

of  the  Tete  D'or 

The  Leaning  Tower  at  Pisa 

The  Colosseum 

Naples,  the  Bay,  and  Vesuvius 

View    of  the    Exhumed   City  of 

Pompeii 

Petrified  Bodies 

View  of  Messina  and  i's  Harbor.... 

The  Island  of  Crete. 

Scene  on  the  Nile  in  Egypt 

Mother  and  Child 

A  Water-carrier 

View  of  the  City  of  Cairo 

An  Egyptian  Temple  in  the  City 

of  Cairo 

Ruins  on  the  Xile 

Camel    Kneeling    to    Shield    His 

Riders 

Slave-boat  on  the  Nile - 

Pyramid  ot  Cheops,  near  Cairo 

A  Water-wheel 

Jaffa,  or  Joppa 

Arabian  Bazar 

Jews'  Wailing  Place : 

Pool  of  Hezekiah 

Jerusalem 

The  Mount  of  Olives 

The  River  Jordan 

Mouth  of  Suez  Canal 

Bound  for  Mecca 

Natives  of  Aden 

Rather  Warm 

Going  Home 

Ornaments  and  Jewels 

Pagoda  in  Bombay 

At  Full  Speed 

The  Monkey  in  His  Native  Jungle. 
Entrapping  Wolves  in  North-west 

India 

A  State  Procession  in  India 

Hard  Work 

House  in  India 

Delhi  Women  at  the  Mill 

Scene  in  Delhi 

The  Kootub  Minar 

Praying  by  Hand 

Stirring  up  a  Hindoo 


47 


C8 


.,  100 
110 
..  126 
..  130 
..  135 
..  136 
..  137 


Getting  Under  Way 

Taking  a  Drink 

Washing  Up 


Studying  Phrenology. 
I  Won't  Go 

The  Sacred  Stream.... 
The  Dying  Brahman. 
Do  n't  Look.... 


325 
326 
329 
VA 
333 
335 
337 


Scene  at  Monkey  Temple  in  Ben- 


ares 

Contested  Ground 
Wedding  Procession 


Midnight  Festival 

Mountains  in  India 

Camel-riding  in  India 

Afraid  of  Sun-stroke 

_  140  Working  the  Punka  Standing  Up.. 
-  142  Mothers  in  Full  Costume 

Scene  in  Ceylon,  near  Colombo 

147  Fan-palm 

151  We  Do  n't  Mind  It 

153  Malay  Boy 

162  «  No  Got  Eye  no  can  See". 

165  Malay  House 

168  Malayan  Lady 

203  Avenue  to  Whampoa's  Gardens 

212  Fruits  of  Singapore 

219  Chop-sticks.. 

223  Opium-smokers 

235  Chin-chin 

254  A  View  Among  the  Hills  near  Ma- 

256  coa,  China 

257  Chinese  Eccentricities 

260  Duck  Boat 

261  How  We  Ride  in  Canton 

264    «  Oys-ters" 

2G4    Here  We  Come! 

269   «  Transmigration" 

272    We  Do  Our  Work  Thoroughly 

A  Buddhist  Temple 

274    Intimate  Relations 

276    Flower  Boat 

281    Landing  at  Shanghai 

285    Chinese  Coach,  or  Wheelbarrow... 

295    On  the  Wusung,  near  Shanghai 

297    A  Coolie  in  His  Bamboo  Overcoat 

30-2       —Wet  Weather ~ 

305    Sole  of  a  Chinese  Shoe 

310  |  Gen.  Charles  George  Gordon 


341 
342 
348 
349 
352 
358 
359 
361 
400 
402 
411 
432 
433 
435 
442 
443 
446 
450 
454 
456 
464 

472 
475 

477 
479 

481 
482 
485 


489 
492 
499 
504 
50G 

512 
513 
517 


12 


Contents. 


PACK 

The  Orchestra 521 

FungShuey 525 

Remembering  Departed  Friends...  528 

Anglo-Chinese  University 538 

The  Young  Plant 542 

Transplanting 542 

Firing  Tea 543 

Pile-king 541 

One  of  the  Aristocracy 547 

Chinese  Servant 558 

I  am  the  Captain  of  this  Boat. 

Thereby  Hangs  a  Tail 559 

Jinrikisha— The  Way  We  Travel 

in  Japan 5G5 

Temple  to  the  Goddess  of  the  Sun.  5C6 

Only  My  Husband 5G8 

Japanese  House 570 

A  Natural  Gate-way 571 


Peasant  Girls 574 

Buddha 586 

Fire  Engine 587 

Picture  of  a  Pleasure  Party,  After 

Having  Seen  the  Colic  God 590 

Will  Take  a  Smoke 591 

The  Way  I  Like  It 594 

The  Cango — Mountain  Travel 597 

The  "City  of  Pekin"  Crossing  the 

Pacific  Ocean GOO 

Natives  of  Hawaii  Leaping  into  the 

Sea 602 

South  Dome— Five  Thousand  Feet  610 

El  Capitan 612 

Nevada  Fall 614 

One  of  the  Big  Trees 615 

The  Tabernacle 618 

Yosemite  Falls....  ....  610 


MAPS. 

Overland  Route  East 251  .  The  Eastern  Shore... 

India 279   Yosemite  Valley 

From  India  to  China ...  386 


580 


AROUND  THETOLD  IN  1884 

CHAPTER  I. 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  LIVERPOOL. 

ON  the  afternoon  of  February  3, 1884,  I  occupied  a  seat 
in  a  palace-car  of  that  splendidly  equipped  road  the 
"Air  Line,"  for  a  pleasure  tour  around  the  world.  I  left 
Atlanta,  whirling  rapidly  around  lofty  mountains  and  across 
the  charming  glens  of  North  Georgia  toward  the  State  of 
North  Carolina,  casting,  it  may  be,  a  last  fond  look  on  the 
land  that  gave  me  birth.  Darkness  soon  enveloped  the 
earth,  and  I  fell  asleep  to  awake  next  morning  in  that  histor- 
ic land  so  endeared  to  every  Southern  heart  by  sacred  mem- 
ories. Many  a  brave  Southron,  fighting  for  his  manhood, 
the  rights  of  his  State  and  home,  had  fallen  here  in  a  mighty 
struggle.  Here  thousands  sleep,  after  the  hush  of  battle, 
under  the  green  sod  on  dear  old  Virginia's  breast. 

Leaving  Danville,  we  had  for  a  companion  to  Washing- 
ton Col.  Clark,  who  pointed  out  the  home  of  Madison,  and 
other  charming  spots  down  the  Piedmont  region.  But 
it  filled  me  with  sadness,  though  twenty  years  have  gone 
since  the  struggle  of  the  father  against  his  son,  and  the 
North  against  the  South,  drenched  this  lovely  land  in 
blood  and  mourning.  Grand  old  Virginia,  the  mother  of 
States  and  statesmen !  the  South  will  ever  hold  thee  in  grate- 
ful remembrance.  We  love  the  names  of  Washington,  Lee, 
Jackson,  Madison,  and  Jefferson — warriors,  statesmen,  and 
soldiers.  The  city  of  Washington  greeted  us  in  the  early 
twilight.  The  lofty  dome  of  her  splendid  Capitc  1  glistened 

(13) 


14  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

in.1  the  morning  suxi.  Though  twenty-four  years  had  gone 
since  I.  \vas  a  student  here  at  .Columbian  College,  Washing- 
top,  :wjt'h  litis.broad  .ayenues,  with  its  labyrinth  of  streets, 
its  palatial  residences  and  glorious  parks,  appeared  more 
beautiful  than  ever. 

We  pass  Baltimore,  the  city  of  monuments,  Philadelphia, 
the  city  of  brotherly  love,  and  arrive  at  New  York.  One  of 
the  most  marvelous  railway  stations  in  the  world,  with  mov- 
able or  adjustable  tracks,*  belonging  to  the  Pennsylvania 
Central,  may  be  seen  at  the  Quaker  City.  A  bridal  party 
from  Baltimore  was  one  of  the  attractive  features  on  the 
crowded  train,  and  an  inexhaustible  amount  of  gossip  and 
speculation  in  regard  to  their  future  happiness  seems  to 
have  been  indulged  in.  Baltimore  is  famous  for  the  beauty 
of  its  women,  and  this  trusting,  loving  bride  proved  no  ex- 
ception. 

I  have  been  several  days  in  the  great  metropolis  prepar- 
ing for  the  ocean  voyage.  The  weather  in  February  is 
often  very  inhospitable  in  this  northern  clime,  being  cold, 
bleak,  and  stormy  for  many  days  at  a  time.  The  lowest 
thermometer  for  many  years  has  been  reported  this  winter  in 
Northern  and  North-western  States,  ranging  twenty  to  forty 
degrees  below  zero.  What  a  contrast  to  the  climate  of  our 
beloved  Southland!  Days  might  be  spent  in  sight-seeing, 
rambles  and  pleasant  jaunts  indulged  in,  for  there  are 
many  objects  and  places  of  interest  to  be  studied  in  this 
wonderful  metropolis.  Whether  we  view  its  rapid  growth 
in  population,  commerce,  and  wealth,  or  contemplate  its  ex- 
tensive domestic  and  foreign  trade,  there  are  but  few  great 
cities  on  the  globe  that  rival  its  magnificence.  New  York, 
Jersey  City,  and  Brooklyn,  connected  by  ferry-boats  and 
bridges,  boast  of  nearly  two  million  inhabitants.  There  are 
many  streets  in  New  York  whose  stately  palaces  of  her 
princely  merchants,  bankers,  and  railroad  magnates  rival  in 

*One  man,  with  different  colored  lamps,  moves  half  a  dozen  trains. 


From  New  York  to  Liverpool.  15 

grandeur  the  most  fashionable  quarters  of  London  and  Paris. 
The  post-office  building,  city  hall,  hotels,  and  exchanges, 
are  constructed  on  the  grandest  scale.  I  have  visited  the 
Bourse  in  Paris  and  the  Exchange  in  Liverpool,  but  I  have 
seen  nothing  that  rivals  the  Stock  Exchange  of  New  York. 
Through  the  courtesy  of  my  cousin,  William  Euclid  Young, 
a  member  and  banker  on  Broadway,  I  enjoyed  a  most  in- 
teresting visit.  A  seat  costs  twenty-five  to  fifty  thousand 
dollars,  and  some  of  the  most  exciting  scenes  are  sometimes 
witnessed  on  its  floors  during  a  sudden  rise  of  stocks  or  de- 
cline in  prices.  Each  member's  name,  when  called,  ap- 
pears on  an  electrical  indicator,  and  he  rushes  in  from  the 
lobbies  or  adjoining  rooms,  often  amidst  the  greatest  confu- 
sion. When  stocks  are  rising  you  will  observe  the  bears 
begin  to  climb;  but  if  they  are  declining  they  growl,  and 
make  the  place  hideous  by  yelling. 

I  have  met  many  kind  friends  of  former  days  and  pleas- 
ant memories,  but  none  I  esteem  more  than  the  old  house 
of  William  Bryce.  It  has  been  the  firm,  trusting  friend 
of  the  Southern  merchant  through  the  most  eventful  peri- 
ods of  our  history.  This  grand  man  has  grown  venerable 
in  years,  a  prince  among  merchants,  but  the  noblest  and 
best  of  friends.  His  employes  appear  to  have  served  him 
during  a  life-time  in  their  different  capacities.  I  observed 
my  old  friend  Dickerson,  whom  I  used  to  meet  here  twenty 
years  ago,  still  faithful  as  ever.  It  was  through  Mr.  B/s 
kindness  I  was  introduced  to  the  house  of  Brown  Brothers, 
whose  letter  of  credit  I  was  to  travel  on  around  the  world. 
Perhaps  an  explanation  would  prove  interesting,  as  most 
of  my  readers  will  be  exercised  to  know  what  kind  of 
money  I  used  in  different  foreign  countries.  The  letter  of 
credit  is  simply  a  letter  of  introduction,  addressed  in  French 
and  English  to  the  correspondents  of  Brown  Brothers,  New 
York,  or  Brown,  Shiply  &  Co.  London,  in  all  important 


16  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

towns  and  cities  around  the  globe.  These  correspondents, 
or  bankers,  are  authorized  to  advance  you,  as  needed,  En- 
glish gold,  or  its  equivalent,  according  to  the  rate  of  ex- 
change in  money  current  in  different  countries  to  the  amount 
of  pounds  sterling  indicated  on  the  first  page  of  the  letter. 
As  you  draw  £5,  £10,  or  £20,  the  amount  is  charged  by 
each  bank,  or  correspondent,  on  the  second  page  of  your 
letter,  and  bills  of  exchange  drawn  against  the  house  in 
London  for  the  amounts  advanced,  which  you  sign.  You 
purchase  this  letter  of  credit  in  New  York,  say  for  five 
hundred  pounds,  at  the  rate  of  $4.84  on  London — this  is 
equal  to  about  five  dollars  commercial  value  of  American 
currency — or  twenty-five  hundred  dollars.  Should  this  let- 
ter be  lost,  by  establishing  the  amounts  drawn  and  deduct- 
ing same,  a  new  circular  letter  will  be  issued  for  the  re- 
mainder. It  costs  from  two  to  three  thousand  dollars  to 
make  a  first-class  voyage  around  the  world.  Divide  this 
amount  by  $4.84,  or  five  dollars,  and  you  have  the  amount 
in  pounds  sterling. 

Having  made  our  financial  arrangements,  we  make  our 
wardrobe  with  a  view  to  the  climatic  changes  incident  to 
the  voyage.  With  sufficient  underwear,  one  suit  of  heavy 
woolen  and  a  light  suit  of  serge,  for  cold  and  warm  lati- 
tudes, brush,  comb,  tooth-brush,  and  soap,  snugly  packed 
in  a  valise,  constitutes  the  outfit  for  the  long  voyage.  A 
good  library  is  found  on  all  first-class  steamers.  Some  trav- 
elers provide  opera -glasses,  goggles,  green  umbrellas,  for 
mountain  views  and  desert  traveling.  I  find  as  little  bag- 
gage as  possible,  with  plenty  of  soap  for  Italy  and  Egypt, 
the  most  advisable.  All  over  fifty  or  sixty  pounds  weight 
is  charged  extra  on  the  English  and  Continental  railways. 
Besides,  the  cabmen  and  commissionaires  are  a  perfect  nui- 
sance. You  want  to  carry  every  thing  on  your  back  and 
the  money  in  your  pocket  to  avoid  the  worry  and  trouble 


From  New  York  to  Liverpool.  17 

We  are  now  ready  for  sea,  and  are  about  to  begin  a  voy- 
age that  startled  the  world  when  Captain  Cook  first  sailed 
around  it  in  three  years.  Now  the  time  has  been  reduced 
to  ninety,  and  even  eighty  days,  by  constant  travel  and 
close  connections.  What  a  revolution  steam  has  effected  in 
the  navigation  of  the  high  seas!  It  has  brought  every  part 
of  the  world  closer  together  into  friendly  intercourse  and 
commercial  exchange. 

I  had  missed  the  "  Pavonia,"  of  the  Cunard  line,  on  Wednes- 
day, by  one  hour,  to  which  the  polite  agent  had  sent  my 
ticket  to  await  my  arrival.  The  next  steamer  sailing  for 
Liverpool  was  the  "City  of  Montreal,"  In  man  line,  on  Fri- 
day. She  was  a  ship  of  large  tonnage,  Clyde  built,  with 
superior  accommodations  for  passengers,  but  a  little  aged. 
Several  friends  shook  their  heads — better  wait  till  Tuesday. 
The  White  Star  line  was  dispatching  a  very  fast  steamer  on 
Saturday,  which  would  make  it  two  days  quicker  than  the 
Inman.  I  begin  to  get  up  mortuary  statistics  for  compari- 
son. The  Cunard  had  never  lost  a  ship;  all  the  other 
companies  had  suffered  terribly.  I  found  the  captain  of 
the  "Montreal,"  Arthur  Lewis,  a  jolly,  nice  fellow,  a  Welsh- 
man by  birth,  full  of  pluck,  and  a  fine  sailor.  These  were 
just  the  qualities  in  a  commander  I  very  much  admired. 
I  was  delighted  with  my  large,  elegant  state-room  the  agent 
had  judiciously  selected  amidships  for  me,  that  wore  an  air 
of  tempting  comfort  and  ease.  One  advantage  was  its 
proximity  to  the  dining-saloon,  where  I  hoped  to  revel  in 
a  good  table,  provided  the  god  Neptune  wa«  not  too  im- 
portunate in  his  demands  upon  me.  Friday  evening  and 
Saturday  brought  heavy  clouds  and  fogs  impenetrable  over 
the  ship  and  harbor.  A  dozen  passengers  sat  in  small  groups 
about  the  saloon  discussing  the  probabilities  and  possibili- 
ties of  an  early  departure  for  Liverpool.  We  might  re- 
main several  days  in  the  harbor — no  one  could  tell. 
2 


18  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Sunday  morning  dawned.  The  heavy,  leaden-colored 
clouds  rolled  back  before  a  gorgeous  rising  sun.  Every- 
body was  on  deck  delighted.  At  last,  above  the  ringing, 
banging,  and  hissing  of  the  steam,  the  order  was  heard, 
"  Cast  off."  Then  the  visitors  went  scampering  ashore,  the 
gangways  were  hauled  in,  and  the  revolutions  of  the  great 
propeller  began.  What  a  pleasure  trip  there  was  before  us ! 
What  strange  lands,  renowned  in  history,  we  should  travel 
over !  What  visions  of  Oriental  splendor,  towering  cathe- 
drals, minarets  and  spires,  dome-roofs,  ancient  cities,  ruins, 
monuments,  and  different  countries,  presenting  a  curiously 
dressed  people,  walking,  talking,  shouting,  with  elephants, 
camels,  and  donkeys,  mixed  up  in  inextricable  confusion! 
These  were  some  of  the  first  impressions  this  vision  of  the 
Orient  made  upon  us.  Then  how  delightful  it  must  be  to 
sail  over  the  breezy  Atlantic,  the  sunlit  Mediterranean,  the 
dimpled  bosom  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  amid  tropical  seas 
studded  with  islands,  under  the  starry  dome  of  heaven! 
We  could  watch  the  whale,  the  shark,  the  porpoise,  the 
nautilus,  and  jelly-fish,  over  the  side  of  the  ship ;  we  could 
promenade,  sing,  make  love,  eat,  and  sleep,  "rocked  in  the 
cradle  of  the  deep." 

The  " Montreal"  moved  down  the  bay  amidst  a  wilderness 
of  shipping  and  tug-boats  that  went  scudding  by  as  if  they 
were  frightened.  Outside  we  could  see  the  frothy  waves 
piling  high,  and  the  murmur  of  the  distant  surf  could  be 
heard  upon  the  shore.  Great  clouds  of  smoke  issued  from 
our  funnels  as  we  bounded  out  to  sea.  Staten  Island,  with 
its  terraced  walks  and  stately  homes,  bowed  farewell,  while 
the  peerless  harbor  of  the  glorious  metropolis  faded  from  our 
view.  The  ships  of  five  other  lines  were  moving  parallel 
with  us  under  steam  and  pressing  clouds  of  canvas  that 
soon  swept  them  beyond  our  vision.  The  spectacle  was 
exciting  and  sublime.  I  never  can  forget  that  morning. 


From  Neiv  York  to  Liverpool.  19 

The  emotions  and  impulses  felt  were  indescribable  as  I 
gazed  on  each  vessel  bending  on  her  course  to  distant  shores. 
Who  could  forecast  the  fate  of  these  ships  ?  There  were 
hundreds  of  lives  and  immense  cargoes  for  different  ports 
that  might  never  reach  their  destination.  Fogs,  icebergs, 
cyclones,  and  collisions  had  ingulfed  many  a  ship  in  its 
watery  grave.  For  several  days  we  had  chopping  seas  that 
sent  the  men  sprawling  on  the  decks  and  the  ladies  to  their 
berths.  Promenading  was  dangerous.  Sometimes  the  bow 
of  the  ship  would  shoot  into  mid-heaven,  and  then  next  mo- 
ment we  were  searching  the  wonders  of  the  deep.  I  gen- 
erally clasp  a  railing  and  hang  on,  others  stand  by  the  side 
of  the  wheel-house  with  shawls  drawn  over  their  heads,  a 
few  are  trying  to  walk,  and  two  or  three  are  heaving  over 
the  railings.  They  have  got  the  "O  mys!"  If  you  want 
to  witness  the  most  intense  disgust,  remark  about  the  fine 
morning  or  charming  day  to  one  of  these  sea-stricken  pas- 
sengers. He  will  place  his  hands  at  once  on  his  bosom  and 
reel  away.  I  am  never  seasick  enough  to  miss  the  regular 
bells.  I  am  never  crowded  at  the  tables  when  others  are 
sick,  and  it  affords  me  inexpressible  delight  and  a  little  self- 
conceit  to  escape  when  others  are  afflicted.  This  is  human 
nature.  When  it  is  smooth  enough  we  have  shuffle-board, 
leap-frog,  promenading,  quoits,  music,  mock  trials,  charades, 
etc.  Several  are  keeping  up  their  journals:  how  many 
miles  we  have  run  in  the  past  twenty-four  hours ;  longitude 
and  latitude  of  the  ship,  the  number  of  porpoises  seen,  ser- 
mons preached,  and  a  little  of  every  thing.  When  the  sea 
is  calm  we  have  delicious  music  and  songs,  promenading, 
love,  and  laughter. 

This  morning  we  descended  three  stories  below  to  see  the 
great  boilers,  the  coal-bunkers,  and  massive  machinery  at 
work.  The  "  Montreal "  is  an  iron  ship  of  nearly  four  thou- 
sand tons,  built  in  water-tight  compartments.  She  is  laden 


20  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

with  thousands  of  cheese,  barrels  of  flour,  lard,  meat,  etc. 
We  have  the  finest  mutton  and  beef  imaginable,  with  deli- 
cious fruits,  nuts,  pastry,  etc.,  for  dinners.  Our  ship  is 
steered  by  steam. 

On  the  sixth  and  seventh  days  we  experienced  heavy  seas, 
which  piled  their  white  caps  and  frothy  waves  mountain- 
high.  It  had  been  rough  nearly  the  entire  voyage,  but  ev- 
idently we  had  run  into  a  storm.  I  felt  we  had  a  good  ship, 
an  excellent  commander;  and  in  an  overruling  Providence 
we  should  abide  in  hope  and  confidence.  Several  of  our 
passengers  had  been  absent  from  the  table  for  days;  one, 
especially  noted  for  her  vivacity  and  beauty,  left  lingering 
hopes  she  would  soon  reappear.  But  no ;  the  clouds  thick- 
ened and  rolled  like  a  pall  of  death,  with  reverberating 
thunders  that  echoed  from  cavernous  depths.  It  was  a  cy- 
clone. The  captain,  who  sat  at  the  head  of  the  table  to 
my  right,  had  not  been  visible  for  eighteen  hours.  He  was 
at  the  helm.  The  barometer  was  falling  rapidly,  and  the 
situation  growing  alarming  below.  Among  the  passengers 
was  a  genuine  Mark  Tapley — B,.,  from  Cincinnati — who  had 
crossed  the  Atlantic  thirty-six  times ;  was  not  afraid  of  the 

,  he  said.     We  had  listened  to  his  stories  of  shipwreck 

and  disaster  at  sea.  He  was  just  a  trifle  fond  of  narrating 
hair-breadth  escapes,  with  a  total  disregard  of  all  danger 
to  himself.  "  Did  you  ever  hear  how  the  '  City  of  Brussels' 
went  down?"  remarked  R.  "It  was  a  fearful  disaster!" 
.IMie  storm  still  increasing  in  fury.  "You  remember  about 
the '  City  of  Boston '  some  years  ago,  do  n't  you  ?  Struck  an 
iceberg — not  a  soul  was  saved."  Breathless  silence.  "  The 
'  President '  never  was  heard  from."  Another  sigh.  "  What 
a  frightful  accident  happened  to  the  '  Princess  Alice '  on  the 
Thames  last  year — seven  hundred  overboard  at  one  time!" 
shouted  the  hero.  Our  ship  was  surging  like  a  great  giant. 
Every  timber  in  her  mighty  frame  seemed  to  moan  and 


Liverpool — Stratford — Trinity  Church.  21 

labor.  The  waves  rolled  like  mountains  over  her  decks, 
and  howled  like  a  thousand  demons  along  her  sides.  The 
table-plate  had  been  thrown  into  inextricable  confusion,  and 
it  was  impossible  for  one  to  keep  his  feet.  We  were  hold- 
ing on  to  a  post,  when  a  tremendous  wave  seemed  to  have 
carried  away  the  wheel-house,  or  something;  so  we  thought. 
The  crash  was  terrific.  There  was  a  pause,  a  cessation,  for 
a  moment.  It  seemed  like  death.  The  great  propeller  had 
ceased  its  revolutions.  "My!"  cried  R.,  "I  am  going — the 
ship  is  gone!"  R.  weighed  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds,  and  wore  a  high  silk  hat.  As  he  fled  in  dismay  up 
the  gangway,  with  his  chapeau  in  hand,  looking  back,  he 
resembled  Falstaff  in  the  "  Merry  Wives  of  Windsor."  This 
storm  lasted  about  forty-eight  hours,  with  the  most  fearful 
gusts  of  wind,  snow,  and  rain  intervening.  I  had  read  a 
graphic  account  of  a  typhoon  in  Admiral  Semmes's  cruise 
of  the  famous  "Alabama,"  and  could  fully  appreciate  the 
awful  situation. 


CHAPTER  II. 

LIVERPOOL — STRATFORD — TRINITY  CHURCH. 

WHEX  we  reached  Queenstowu,  we  could  not  enter  the 
harbor,  the  sea  was  so  high ;  so  we  steamed  up  the  Mer- 
sey River,  and  made  Liverpool.  On  our  way  we  passed  near  a 
ship  abandoned — water-logged — but  the  crew  were  all  saved, 
so  we  heard  in  Liverpool.  This  is  the  great  market  for  our 
Southern  staple,  and  more  ships  arrive  at  and  depart  from  it 
than  any  city  in  the  world.  Her  immense  docks  are  seven 
miles  in  length,  and  so  dense  is  the  shipping  at  the  piers 
that  a  conflagration  with  a  favorable  wind  would  utterly 
destroy  it.  The  masts,  at  a  distance,  resemble  an  old  pine- 
field  in  Georgia  that  has  been  deadened.  Liverpool  has  a 
population  of  a  half  million  or  more,  and,  with  Glasgow, 


22  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ranks  second  in  population  in  the  Empire.  It  is  a  very 
hilly  city,  but  splendidly  built  in  brick  and  stone.  The 
Exchange  and  St.  George's  Hall  are  two  of  its  most  famous 
structures.  Street  railways  connect  every  part  of  the  city 
with  the  Great  Western  Railroad.  Birkenhead  is  close  by, 
and  has  splendid  docks  for  building  iron  ships.  Trains 
reach  London,  two  hundred  miles  distant,  in  four  hours 
and  thirty  minutes,  and  by  Chester  a  little  longer. 

What  an  agreeable  change  we  experience  in  the  climate ! 
The  snow-drops  and  daffodils  are  in  bloom,  while  my  car 
window  looks  out  on  green  fields  of  clover  and  grain.  It 
will  be  at  least  a  month  in  New  York  before  the  foliage  of 
the  garden  and  the  verdure  of  the  meadow  and  field  are  so 
far  advanced.  The  latitude  of  England  is  on  the  line  of 
Labrador.  What  are  the  causes,  then,  that  play  such  impor- 
tant parts  in  producing  this  change?  It  is  evidently  the 
Gulf-stream.  Were  it  not  for  its  proximity  to  the  coasts 
of  Great  Britain,  these  fertile  and  beautiful  islands  would 
become  uninhabitable.  The  moisture  of  this  warming  ocean 
current  is  taken  up  by  the  benignant  west  winds,  that  dis- 
pense it  on  the  shores  of  all  Western  Europe.  To  no  dis- 
coverer or  navigator  does  science  owe  such  a  tribute  of  grat- 
itude as  the  world  has  accorded  to  the  illustrious  Southern- 
er, Commodore  M.  F.  Maury.  A  Virginian  by  birth,  the 
South  lovingly  claims  this  great  philosopher;  but  to  the 
•world  and  to  science  belong  his  labors.  The  mariner  pur- 
suing his  voyage  over  trackless  seas  looks  upon  his  charts 
for  the  blazed  highways ;  no  less  valuable  are  his  charts  of 
the  winds  and  currents  of  the  ocean.  But  of  the  Gulf- 
stream  and  its  influence  on  climate — its  source  and  won- 
drous career — we  desire  to  speak.  From  its  great  cal- 
dron, the  Mexican  Gulf  and  Caribbean  Sea,  shoots  this  re- 
sistless stream  like  an  inverted  cataract  by  Cape  of  Florida, 
along  the  Atlantic  coast  north,  till  it  reaches  Newfound- 


Liverpool — Stratford — Trinity  Church.  23 

land,  where  it  begins  to  spread  its  mantle  of  warmth  for 
thousands  of  square  leagues  over  cold  waters ;  but  onward, 
distinct  and  separate,  presses  this  mysterious  wanderer,  with 
a  temperature  of  eighty-six  degrees,  radiating  heat  on  the 
surface  which  the  moist  west  winds  bear  to  the  grateful 
embrace  of  Erin's  and  Albion's  shores,  waking  their  birds 
to  joyous  song  and  clothing  their  fields  in  everlasting  green. 
Let  us  look  now,  in  the  same  latitude,  on  the  opposite  coast 
of  Labrador.  All  nature  is  inanimate,  and  her  mountains 
are  covered  with  snow.  Increasing  its  latitude  ten  degrees, 
the  Gulf-stream  loses  but  two  degrees  of  temperature,  and  even 
in  mid-winter,  having  run  over  three  thousand  miles  north, 
still  preserves  the  heat  of  summer.  Breaking  on  the  shores 
of  Britain,  and  moving  slowly,  it  divides  into  two  parts,  one 
going  north  toward  Spitzbergen,  or  Polar  Sea,  while  the 
other  half  enters  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  on  the  south  of  Eu- 
rope. Continuing  now  along  the  coasts  of  Spain  and  Africa 
to  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands,  it  joins  and  turns  back  with 
the  great  equatorial  current  flowing  westward  across  the 
Atlantic  toward  Cape  St.  Roque,  coast  of  Brazil.  From 
here  it  flows  north  to  the  Gulf  from  which  it  sprung.  HOAV 
beautiful  is  God  in  nature!  The  physical  geography  of  the 
seas  attests  his  beneficence  and  love  no  less  than  the  land 
he  has  clothed  with  verdure  for  the  happiness  of  man. 

The  English  railway  cars  are  built  in  compartments — 
first,  second,  and  third  classes  marked  on  the  side  doors. 
Take  an  American  coach,  which  you  enter  from  a  platform 
at  each  end,  subdivide  it  into  six  or  eight  compartments  by 
partitions,  turn  the  seats  facing  each  other,  with  places  for 
four  persons  on  either  side,  and  you  have  the  English  and 
Continental  railway  coach.  There  are  no  conductors,  but 
guards.  It  is  their  duty  to  examine  your  ticket,  lock  and 
unlock  the  doors  at  the  numerous  stations  when  the  train 
starts  and  stoj>s.  You  must  invariably  purchase  your  ticket 


24  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


at  the  first,  second,  or  third  class  booking-offices;  then  you 
enter  your  class  of  waiting-room  until  the  signal  is  sounded. 
Your  ticket  is  then  examined,  and  you  are  shown  your  place 
on  the  train.  Then  the  guards  come  along  and  lock  up  all 
the  doors,  put  the  keys  in  their  pockets,  and  walk  off.  There 
is  a  drop-step  on  the  outside  running  the  entire  length  of 
the  train,  along  which  a  guard  can  walk  while  the  train  is 
in  motion.  He  is  never  allowed  to  sit  with  the  passengers. 
The  guards  have  compartments  of  their  own.  The  compart- 
ments are  destitute  of  all  the  comforts  we  have  on  our  Amer- 
ican railroads.  These  are  provided  at  the  stations.  When  I 
first  visited  England  twelve  years  ago  there  were  no  steam- 
whistles  or  sleeping-coaches  on  the  roads ;  now  they  have 
both.  There  are  elegant  Pullman  cars  now  on  the  Ameri- 
can model.  The  North-western  is  magnificently  equipped ; 
its  ballasted  road-bed,  iron  bridges  on  stone  piers,  and  heavy 
steel  rails,  over  which  the  train  glides  almost  without  a  jar, 
are  marvels  of  solid  masonry  and  engineering.  On  either 
side  of  the  road  are  trimmed  hedges  of  roses  and  thorns, 
whose  beauty  is  heightened  by  the  sloping  banks  of  the 
road,  which  are  sown  in  grasses  and  clover,  and  are  beauti- 
fully mowed. 

What  a  charming  country  between  Liverpool  and  Lon- 
don brightens  our  way.  It  is  the  twentieth  day  of  February, 
yet  it  is  as  balmy  as  in  spring.  The  fields  are  green  with 
grass,  wheat,  and  clover.  The  front  yard  of  that  enchanted 
cottage,  with  its  daffodils  and  clambering  vines,  is  a  joyous 
scene  of  mirth  between  romping  mothers  and  prattling  chil- 
dren. The  plowman  is  busy  in  the  field,  the  shepherd  is 
watching  his  flock,  while  the  "lowing  herd  is  winding  slow- 
ly over  the  lea."  WThat  a  landscape  for  the  painter !  The 
charms  of  English  scenery  are  nowhere  surpassed.  Wheth- 
er it  is  the  venerable  oak  in  its  solitude,  or  the  stately  elm 
that  graces  the  long,  broad  avenues  to  its  cathedral  towns, 


Liverpool — Stratford—  Trinity  Church.  25 

the  quiet  meadow,  the  hill  or  valley  seen,  the  memory  of 
their  beauty  will  linger  like  a  dream. 

The  west  of  England  is  famous  for  its  wooded  parks  and 
baronial  castles  of  its  ancient  aristocracy.  Some  of  the 
most  interesting  spots  in  its  history  are  to  be  visited  in  War- 
wickshire. I  had  long  desired  to  see  Kenilworth  Castle, 
with  its  cloud-capped  towers  and  ivy-covered  walls,  immor- 
talized by  the  genius  of  Walter  Scott.  I  wanted  to  see  the 
Castle  of  Warwickshire,  that  looked  back  into  the  mystic 
ages  of  England's  ancient  splendor ;  the  birthplace  of  Will- 
am  Shakespeare,  at  Stratford-upon-Avon,  that  had  kindled 
my  boyish  imagination  with  poetic  fervor. 

Departing  at  Leamington  station,  we  embrace  all  these 
historic  places  in  a  charming  drive  of  two  days  behind  a 
spanking  team  of  horses.  The  coachman  was  as  gossipy  as 
one  of  Falstaff's  wives ;  the  weather,  crisp  and  fine,  put  me 
in  the  best  of  humor.  First  from  Leamington  to  Kenil- 
worth— five  miles — over  a  road  Queen  Elizabeth  traveled 
three  hundred  years  ago.  This  castle,  presented  by  Her  Maj- 
esty to  Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester,  was  formerly  the  property 
of  Henry  the  Fourth.  Its  ruins  present  to-day  one  of  the 
grandest  sights  in  all  England.  I  walked  through  its  de- 
serted halls,  once  radiant  with  splendor,  that  echoed  the 
tread  of  royalty.  I  looked  out  from  its  ivy-clad  windows 
on  its  crumbling  walls.  Sad,  gloomy,  desolate!  Where  is 
thy  glory,  O  once  proud  Kenilworth?  Where  are  Queen 
Elizabeth  and  Dudley  gone?  I  saw  some  inscriptions  on 
the  antique  fire-place  in  one  of  the  apartments.  There  were 
the  crumbling  archways,  the  great  gate-house,  and  remains 
of  a  lake  near  by,  that  spoke  in  silent  eloquence  of  departed 
grandeur. 

Several  miles  west  of  Leamington  is  Warwick  Castle,  of 
great  antiquity,  and  noted  for  its  historical  associations. 
From  its  stupendous  towers — looped  for  archers'  bows  and 


26  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

arrows  in  the  tenth  or  eleventh  century — I  looked  upon  a 
landscape  that  would  have  baffled  the  genius  of  a  painter 
to  portray.  It  is  believed  that  the  foundation  of  this  castle 
dates  back  to  the  Romans— -before  the  birth  of  Christ — and 
tradition  has  handed  down  a  story  that  it  was  connected, 
like  Guy's  Cliff  once,  by  subterranean  passages  with  Ken- 
ilworth.  Many  curious  relics  may  be  seen  in  the  armory ; 
frescoes  and  paintings  in  the  castle.  The  famous  Warwick 
vase  found  in  Emperor  Adrian's  villa  at  Tivoli,  that  holds 
one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  gallons,  is  shown  in  this  col- 
lection. We  pass  Guy's  Cliff.  Its  lofty  tower  rises  in  ma- 
jestic grandeur  at  the  end  of  a  long  avenue  of  ancestral 
trees.  The  old  one  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  dates  back  to  thtf 
time  of  William  the  Conqueror. 

Eight  miles  distant  is  the  town  of  Stratford,  upon  the 
banks  of  the  classic  Avon,  whose  name  has  been  rendered 
illustrious  by  the  birth  of  the  immortal  bard.  About  mid- 
way lies  Charlecot  Park,  where,  our  coachman  says, "  Shakes- 
peare stole  the  deer."  William  came  out  from  Stratford,  in 
company  with  other  young  roisters,  to  this  famous  family- 
seat  of  the  Lucys,  much  like  a  Georgia  boy  would  hunt 
the  festive  opossum  around  a  sugar-cane  patch.  He  little 
dreamed,  perhaps,  when  he  committed  an  injury  on  that 
doting  pet,  he  would  be  captured  and  lodged  in  the  keep- 
er's "inn"  all  night.  When  brought  in  the  presence  of  the 
irate  Sir  Thomas,  his  indignation  must  have  been  severely 
provoked.  William's  feelings  were  also  much  wounded  by 
harsh  treatment,  if  we  are  to  judge  from  the  following  lines : 

"A  Parliament  member,  a  justice  of  the  peace — 
At  home  a  poor  scarecrow;  at  London,  an  ass." 

For  this  humiliating  stanza  on  the  proud  knight,  Sir  Thomas 
employed  a  lawyer  to  prosecute  the  young  poet-thief,  which 
forced  a  hasty  escape  to  London.  William  became  a  hanger- 


Liverpool — Stratford — Trinity  Church.  27 

on  at  the  theater,  then  an  actor,  and  finally  began  to  write. 
The  burning  indignation  of  his  Charlecot's  rage  embalmed 
Sir  Lucy  in  a  withering  satire,  with  Justice  Shallow  for  its 
hero,  alias  Sir  Thomas  Lucy.  As  we  walked  through  thia 
lovely  old  park,  a  fine  herd  of  deer  started  to  their  feet, 
turning  their  pretty  heads  at  us  as  if  they  suspected  the 
approach  of  one  of -the  poet's  descendants.  There  were 
many  fine  old  oaks  that  studded  these  historic  grounds,  with 
a  pretty  silver  stream  threading  its  way  through  a  meadow 
of  beautiful  green. 

Resuming  our  coach,  which  by  this  time  had  rounded  the 
wooded  park,  we  drove  down  a  turnpike  that  looked  like  it 
had  been  sand-papered  every  day.  It  was  a  marvel  of  sym- 
metry and  beauty  with  its  well-trimmed  hedges  and  its  cozy 
cottages,  that  peeped  out  of  a  wealth  of  shrubbery  and 
grand  old  trees.  In  the  distance  rose  the  spire  of  the  par- 
ish church,  which  marked  the  last  resting-place  of  the  im- 
mortal poet.  I  was  pleased  with  the  prospect  before  me ;  and 
as  the  little  river  Avon  stretched  away  on  an  enraptured 
view,  I  could  mark  its  course  through  the  meadows  by  the 
fringe  of  the  willow-trees,  whose  long  tendrils  drooped  upon 
its  placid  bosom.  We  cross  a  little  stone  bridge  and  enter 
Stratford.  Need  I  say  we  stopped  at  the  famous  "Red 
Horse "  hotel,  that  associates  the  name  of  Washington  Ir- 
ving with  his  poker  chair  and  scepter,  to  which  he  so  tender- 
ly alludes  in  his  "Sketch  Book?"  The  long  street  that 
passes  by  is  thronged  with  pedestrians,  who  seem  to  be  hur- 
rying to  a  railway  station ;  but  their  destination  is  Shakes- 
peare's house.  This  is  poetic  ground  we  stand  on ;  for  ev- 
ery association  connects  it  with  some  thought  of  the  im- 
mortal bard.  There  is  nothing  prepossessing  in  this  ancient 
edifice  of  hewn  timbers  and  plaster,  though  it  excites  the 
feelings  of  the  deepest  veneration  in  the  pilgrim.  It  is  three 
hundred  years  old.  In  the  room  fronting  Henley  street, 


28  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

up-stairs,  in  which  the  poet  was  born,  names  hardly  less  re- 
nowned in  history  than  his  own  are  left  upon  the  walls  by 
the  royal  visitors  and  personages.  We  saw  Goethe's  name 
once  in  the  tower  of  the  Strasburg  Cathedral  four  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  above  the  ground,  cut  in  the  solid  stone ;  but 
here  are  the  names  of  kings  and  royal  ladies — of  George 
the  Fourth,  William  the  Fourth,  the  Countess  of  Blessing- 
ton,  Lord  Byron,  Wellington,  Scott,  Moore,  Mrs.  Hemans, 
Irving,  N.  P.  Willis,  and  Dickens,  and  a  host  of  less  dis- 
tinguished celebrities.  The  king  and  his  subjects  have  vied 
in  paying  their  tribute  to  the  loftiest  genius.  I  did  not 
leave  my  name — it  was  too  perishable.  I  did  not  desire  to 
leave  any  thing.  I  wanted  to  take  away  something — some 
souvenir  with  which  I  could  associate  the  name  of  the  poet. 
Just  as  I  had  laid  my  hand  on  a  brick  in  the  chimney — in 
the  old  fire-place  by  which  his  mother  once  sat  with  the 
prattling  babe — some  old  fossiliferous  relic  of  the  deceased 
shouted  out,  "  Do  n't  do  that  I "  I  endeavored  then  to  di- 
vert these  "antiquated  remains"  to  some  distant  object.  I 
wanted  to  secure  the  old  match-lock  gun  Shakespeare  had 
shot  the  deer  with.  What  a  souvenir  that  would  be !  Then 
there  was  the  old  arm-chair  he  sat  in,  and  even  the  deeds 
to  the  place  his  father,  John  Shakespeare,  had  left,  all  tempt- 
ingly near.  The  old  lady  kept  a  suspicious  eye  around  the 
room.  As  we  passed  out  the  door,  the  jug  that  Garrick 
sipped  the  wine  out  of  and  the  sword  with  which  Shakes- 
peare had  played  Hamlet  almost  overcame  me.  It  was  too 
sad!  I  could  sooner  have  poached  the  deer  out  of  Charle- 
cot  Park.  I  had  lost  prestige  with  this  ancient  relative  of 
the  bard.  Then  I  sat  down  overwhelmed  with  grief.  Just 
to  think,  there  was  not  even  a  place  in  the  album  or  on  the 
venerable  walls  to  write  my  name ! 

Shame  on  the  town  of  Stratford!    Until  recently,  I  learn, 
this  house  with  storied  associations,  about  which   lingers 


Liverpool — Stratford — Trinity  Church.  29 

the  witchery  of  poetic  imagination,  has  actually  been  used 
as  a  butch'er-shop.  Think  of  the  vulgar  butcher  serving 
up  bits  of  rare  beef  and  fat  joints  of  mutton  to  the  village 
burghers  under  the  consecrated  old  roof!  A  market-house 
for  thirty  years,  but  now  redeemed  to  history  by  the  town 
of  Stratford.  Parenthetically :  I  hear  that  Barnurn  has 
offered  ten  thousand  pounds — fifty  thousand  dollars — for 
the  mansion,  and  wants  to  move  it  to  ISTew  York.  What  a 
show  it  would  be  with  Jumbo! 

The  birthplace  and  sepulcher  are  not  far  apart.  I  turned 
my  face  down  the  banks  of  the  sweet  Avon,  upon  which 
rose  Trinity  Church  —  a  venerable  and  consecrated  pile. 
Walking  up  an  avenue  of  lime-trees1  whose  interlacing 
branches  overhead  hung  in  mournful  silence,  I  observed  on 
either  side  the  sepulchral  grounds  many  ancient  tombs  al- 
most covered  with  grass.  As  we  entered  by  a  Gothic  porch, 
heavy  oaken  doors  swung  back  on  ponderous  hinges.  The 
interior  presented  a  scene  of  grandeur — in  the  chancel,  aisles, 
nave,  and  transept,  truly  magnificent.  We  turned  up  oaken 
seats  under  which  were  most  curious  carvings  three  hun- 
dred years  old.  We  looked  on  the  monuments  and  tombs 
of  the  Clopton  family,  the  gentry  and  nobility,  the  beauti- 
ful windows  and  banners  on  the  walls,  the  rich  carvings 
and  highly  embellished  ornamentations,  until  we  were  lost  in 
a  maze  of  bewilderment.  Shakespeare's  monument  adorns 
the  door-way  on  the  left  of  the  chancel.  He  is  represented 
as  writing  on  a  cushion,  and  beneath  the  bust  is  a  singular 
inscription,  beginning  with  these  lines : 

"Stay,  passenger;  why  goest  thou  by  sp  fast? 
Kead,  if  thou  canst,  whom  envious  death  hath  plast,  etc, 

"Obit  Anno  Dei  1616;  Etatis,  53;  Died  23d  Ap." 

Beneath  is  the  poet's  grave,  upon  which  I  read  this  inscrip- 
tion: 


30  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

"Good  friend,  for  Jesus'  sake  forbeare 
To  digg  the  dust  encloased  Heare ; 
Bleste  be  the  man  that  spares  these  stones 
And  curst  be  he  that  moves  my  bones." 

It  is  probable  that  this  traditional  anathema  has  prevented 
the  removal  of  his  ashes  to  Westminster  Abbey.     Near  by 

lie  his  wife  and  other  relatives.     The   baptismal  font  in 

which  the  poet  was  baptized  stands  very  near. 

The  following  epigram,  it  is  thought,  has  been  wTrongly 

ascribed  to  the  poet's  pen,  reflecting  on  the  usury  of  John 

Combe,  a  great  friend  of  Shakespeare's : 

"  Ten  in  the  hundred  lie  here  engraved. 
'T  is  a  hundred  to  ten  his  soul  is  not  saved. 
If  any  man  ask,  Who  lies  in  this  tomb? 
Oh,  oh!  quoth  the  devil,  't  is  my  John  a  Combe!" 

A  mile  away  from  the  town  is  the  cottage  of  Anne  Hath- 
away, a  fine  specimen  of  an  old  English  farm-house,  in 
which  the  poet's  wife  was  born.  Here  they  were  married 
in  1582,  when  he  was  only  eighteen  years  of  age.  The 
town  hall  contains  many  treasures  of  art  that  associate  the 
name  of  Shakespeare. 

While  in  the  country,  I  desire  to  allude  to  English  life, 
its  charms  and  influence  on  home.  I  am  sure  no  people 
can  boast  of  a  greater  love  for  rural  enjoyments  or  more  re- 
fined pleasures  and  comforts  of  home.  Whether  on  the 
moor  or  marsh  with  gun  or  dog,  or  bounding  over  fence  or 
ditch  following  the  hounds  in  the  chase,  the  gentleman  bears 
himself  aloft  in  stately  pride  of  his  house,  its  honors  and 
.courtly  grandeur.  The  greatest  charm  of  an  English  home, 
Bays  Irving,  "  is  the1  moral  influence  that  seems  to  pervade 
it."  Good  order,  with  a  sense  of  propriety,  united  with 
courteous  bearing,  are  characteristic  traits  of  the  English 
people.  Then  the  perfect  respect,  polite  manners,  and  rev- 
erence observed  by  the  family  in  social  intercourse,  are  some 


Sight-seeing  in  and  About  London.  31 

thing  remarkable.  The  country  furnishes  the  home,  the 
city  the  conventional  life,  of  the  English  people.  I  very 
much  admire  their  love  of  comfort,  culture,  good  breeding, 
study  of  books,  and  fondness  for  travel — the  rare  good  sense 
they  talk  and  show  in  every-day  life  at  home.  About  their 
cottages  they  gather  beautiful  flowers  in  tiny  pots  to  grow. 
The  creeping  vine  is  trained  by  careful  hands  to  produce 
the  best  effect.  The  wife  and  daughter  are  fond  of  father 
and  brother.  The  active,  manly  form  of  the  son  is  not 
more  admired  than  the  ruddy  glow  of  health  mantled  in 
the  cheek  of  his  devoted  sister,  whose  symmetrical  form 
and  nimble  step  are  admired  by  all.  What  Georgian  is 
not  boastful  of  his  Scotch  ancestors,  his  English  or  Irish 
blood?  Even  in  our  domestic  animals  we  refer  with  pride 
and  pleasure  to  their  pedigrees.  Two  hours  by  Rugby  and 
we  are  in  London.  All  time  is  measured  by  hours,  and  not 
by  distance,  in  European  travel. 


CHAPTER  III. 

SlGHT-SEEINC?  IN   AND   ABOUT   LONDON. 

WHEX  I  was  a  school-boy,  my  geography  said,  Yedo, 
Pekin,  Nankin,  and  Canton,  were  the  largest  cit- 
ies in  the  world.  Now  I  am  sure  that  London  is  nearly 
equal  in  population  to  all  four  of  these  combined.  It  is 
not  only  the  largest  but  the  wealthiest  city  in  the  world. 
It  was  once  a  Roman  colony  under  Nero,  and  therefore 
boasts  of  great  antiquity.  It  resembles,  on  first  impression, 
a  large,  overgrown  country  village,  w^th  its  wooded  parks 
and  lawns  scattered  through  it  for  miles.  It  is  a  good 
day's  horseback  ride  through  this  famous  old  metropolis. 
It  is  at  least  twenty-five  to  thirty  miles  wide.  I  have 
walked  six  or  eight  miles  through  the  heart  of  it — from 
Kensington  Gardens,  by  the  British  Museum,  to  St.  Paul's 


32  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Cathedral.  Several  times  I  thought  I  was  in  the  country. 
What  most  interests  me  are  these  old  places.  It  is  said  the 
Tower  of  London  was  laid  by  Julius  Caesar,  fifty  years  be- 
fore our  Saviour  was  born.  I  am  nearly  stupefied  when  I  be- 
gin to  study  the  history  of  London,  and  explore  the  laby- 
rinths that  lead  me  back  into  its  shadowy  past.  Contem- 
plate for  a  moment  its  stupendous  power  and  influence  on 
the  world's  civilization.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  mightiest 
kingdom  on  earth — upon  whose  flag  the  sun  never  sets. 
Every  ten  minutes  there  is  a  birth,  and  in  every  fifteen  min- 
utes a  death.  There  are  over  four  hundred  thousand  houses, 
in  which  nearly  four  millions  of  people  reside.  Think  of 
seven  thousand  miles  of  streets,  that  would  stretch  nearly 
one-third  the  distance  around  the  world,  crowded  with  its 
teeming  millions,  presenting  every  condition  and  phase  of 
human  life — the  rich  and  poor,  the  high  and  low,  the  queen 
and  her  subjects — that  make  up  this  grand  panorama  of  life. 
Let  us  stand  on  London  Bridge  and  watch  the  surging 
masses  of  vehicles  and  pedestrians  cross  the  river  Thames. 
The  city  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  this  historic  stream, 
and  as  you  cast  your  eye  up  and'down,  splendid  struct- 
ures span  the  river  at  intervals  as  far  as  you  can  see.  It  is 
one  dense  mass  of  living  beings  surging  from  side  to  side. 
On  the  water  beneath  small  steam-boats  and  numerous  other 
crafts  are  puffing  and  blowing,  bearing  away  their  living 
freights  and  merchandise.  Look  at  her  castles,  her  parks 
and  gardens,  her  princely  monuments  and  grand  cathedrals! 
I  have  spent  weeks  exploring  its  labyrinth  of  streets,  trav- 
ersing for  miles  its  museums  and  galleries,  studying  their 
vast  collections  of  art,  admiring  its  park  scenery,  or  ram- 
bling through  the  ancestral  halls  of  its  ancient  palaces.  I 
only  wish  these  weeks  or  months  had  been  years.  I  can 
only  mention  a  few  of  its  great  attractions.  I  have  seen 
none  that  interested  me  more  than  Westminster  Abbey. 


Sight-seeing  m  and  About  London.  o3 


VFSTMTNSTER   ARBFY. 


34  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

No  country  Tpays  a  loftier  tribute  to  genius,  or  honors  more 
its  illustrious  dead,  than  England.  The  transept  and  gor- 
geous chapels  of  this  venerable  pile  bear  numerous  testi- 
monials to  departed  greatness.  Even  the  tessellated  floors 
on  which  we  tread  down  its  gloomy  aisles  mark  the  rest- 
ing-places of  its  immortal  dead.  Here  the  deeds  and  virt- 
ues of  the  hero,  poet,  traveler,  scholar,  navigator,  discov- 
erer, artist,  historian,  and  benefactor,  have  all  been  com- 
memorated. I  read  the  name  of  Charles  Dickens  under 
my  feet;  he  sleeps  among  the  great  and  honored  in  the 
Poet's  Corner.  Around  me,  in  the  niches,  I  saw  the  busts 
of  Dry  den,  Chaucer,  Shakespeare,  Pope,  Thomson,  Milton, 
Addison,  and  Johnson — names  that  will  live  when  this  ca- 
thedral has  crumbled  into  dust.  I  do  n't  see  Byron  here. 
The  solemn  peals  of  the  noble  organ,  reverberating  through 
the  dark  recesses  and  corridors,  is  very  impressive.  The 
eye  wanders  beyond  a  wilderness  of  graceful  columns,  deli- 
cate tracery,  and  embellished  windows,  on  tombs,  galleries, 
and  chambers,  solemn  and  dreary  in  their  antiquity.  Here 
William  the  Conqueror  was  crowned  in  1066.  Here  the 
royal  chapel  of  Henry  VII.,  the  most  costly  structure  of 
any  age,  and  that  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  may  be  seen. 
Here  the  ashes  of  Mary  and  Elizabeth  were  interred. 
Near  by  are  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  that  rise  in  stately 
grandeur  on  the  bank  of  the  Thames,  covering  eight  acres 
of  ground.  They  form  the  most  splendid  piece  of  Gothic 
architecture  in  the  world. 

We  pass  to  the  Strand  by  Charing  Cross,  a  great  rail- 
way station,  three  miles  distant  to  St.  Paul's  Cathedral, 
the  grandest  structure  in  all  the  kingdom.  It  was  built, 
like  fifty-two  other  noble  churches,  by  that  incomparable 
architect,  Christopher  Wren,  after  the  great  fire  in  1666. 
It  required  thirty-five  years  in  building,  and  cost  over  seven 
million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars.  It  is  built  in  the 


Sight-seeing  in  and  About  London.  35 

shape  of  a  cross,  its  great  dome  rising  three  hundred  and 
sixty-five  feet  above  the  marble  pavement  of  the  cathedral. 
Some  authorities  claim  it  is  over  four  hundred  feet  high. 
Mr.  E.  K.  Rea,  of  Carrollton,  Mo.,  and  I  ascended  to  the 
lofty  dome,  from  which  we  gazed  in  wonder  on  the  vast 
city  below  us,  enveloped  in  smoke.     Smoke,  fog,  and  rain 
furnish  the  contrast  for  London.      How  I   wish    I   could 
gaze  on  a  cloudless  sky  and  bask  in  the  golden  light  of 
a  setting  sun !     Such  a  scene  must  be  truly  gorgeous  in  this 
metropolis.      I  can  trace  the  dim  lines  of  long-departing 
streets,  that  stretch  away  below  a  wilderness  of  house-tops. 
They  are  packed  with  moving  vehicles  and  human  beings. 
The   Mansion  House  (Lord  Mayor's  residence),  the  Ex- 
change, the  Bank  of  England,  the  Tower  of  London,  Guild- 
hall, the  British  Museum,  the  domes  and  cathedral  spires 
of  many  historic  buildings,  may  be  seen  from  this  lofty 
eminence.     The  great  organ  and  whispering-gallery,  with 
its  mysterious  echoes  under  the  great  dome,  have  fascinated 
the  admiring  millions  of  curious  visitors  for  ages  past.     St. 
Paul's,  too,  presents  monuments  and  mausoleums  to  its  ven- 
erated dead.     The  tombs  of  Wren,  Nelson,  and  Welling- 
ton are  in  a  magnificent  crypt  below ;  while  we  look  upon 
the  statues  of  John  Howard,  Dr.  Johnson,  Bishop  Heber, 
Howe,  Abercrombie,  Sir  John  Moore,  and  other  eminent 
men  in  various  parts  of  the  cathedral.     I  observed  Lord 
Cornwallis  among  the   number  that   marks   a  period   in 
American   history.     I  saw   Packenham,  too,  of  New  Or- 
leans fame.     The  great  clock  and  bell  are  among  the  at- 
tractions to  visitors.     The  bell  is  never  tolled,  only  when 
a  member  of  the  royal  family  dies.     But  when  I  was  far 
away  I   have  heard  the    deep  tones  of  this  mighty  bell 
strike  the  hours,  which  on  a  quiet  evening  swept  solemnly 
across  the  metropolis  to  my  ears.     It  hangs  in  the  south- 
ern turret  above  the  western  portico ;  it  weighs  four  and  one- 


36  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

half  tons,  and  is  ten  feet  in  diameter.  I  thought  I  would 
wind  up  the  great  clock  once,  in  another  part  of  the  build- 
ing, which  the  keeper  kindly  consented  for  me  to  do;  hut 
on  being  informed  that  it  required  two  men  six  hours  every 
day,  I  begged  he  would  excuse  me.  The  end  of  the  pend- 
ulum weighs  one  hundred  pounds.  London  has  scores  of 
churches — nearly  one  thousand  or  more.  But  St.  Paul's  is 
the  royal  cathedral,  where  the  lords,  the  ministry,  and  the 
nobility  attend.  It  has  many  thousand  chairs  arranged  on 
the  vast  expanse  of  its  marble  floors.  In  the  inner  dome 
are  six  paintings  relating  to  events  in  the  life  of  Paul.  The 
entire  building,  of  stone,  marble,  and  iron,  is  a  marvelous 
piece  of  architecture,  beautifully  situated  on  Ludgate  Hill, 
in  the  heart  of  London.  I  do  not  think  the  cathedral  is 
ever  filled  during  devotional  exercises.  I  am  not  sure 
these  cathedrals  are  as  largely  attended  as  in  former  years. . 
The  people  crowd  the  smaller  churches;  but  St.  Paul's  is 
always  full  of  curious  spectators. 

The  courts,  inns,  bridges,  railway  stations,  theaters,  ho- 
tels, taverns,  gardens,  and  parks  are  too  numerous  to  men- 
tion. 

There  is  a  most  curious  place  for  the  sale  of  old  clothes, 
etc.,  called  "  Petticoat  Lane,"  that  is  well  worthy  a  visit. 
It  shows  up  queer  life  and  character ;  but  you  must  leave  your 
conscience  and  purse  behind.  Cheapside  and  Cornhill  are 
famous  old  streets  in  London,  but  few  can  recall  such  a 
roll  of  illustrious  names  as  Fleet.  It  is  the  printing-house 
and  literary  street.  The  early  printer  once  lived  here. 
Wynkyn  de  Worde  "fynished  and  emprynted  two  of  his 
books  heare." 

The  Devil  Tavern,  near  Temple  Bar,  is  associated  with 
the  days  of  Ben  Jonson,  Goldsmith,  Boswell,  and  Dr. 
Johnson.  Dryden,  Richardson,  and  Pope  met  here.  Abra- 
ham Cowley,  the  peerless  poet,  lived  on  Fleet  Street. 


Sight-seeing  in  and  About  London.  87 

Paternoster  Kow  is  a  famous  old  street;  so  is  Baker, 
which  associates  the  name  of  Madam  Tusseaud  with  her  mar- 
velous wax-work  exhibition.  Not  a  more  delightful  even- 
ing can  be  spent  in  London  than  you  will  enjoy  among 
the  groups  and  figures  of  this  wonderful  collection.  The 
Zoological  Gardens — the  largest  in  the  world — contain  a 
vast  collection  of  birds  and  animals  from  every  clime  on 
earth.  Large  houses  are  heated  in  winter  to  produce  the 
proper  temperature  for  those  from  near  the  equator. 

Every  year  the  resident  population  of  the  metropolis  de- 
creases. It  has  given  away  to  vast  blocks  of  business 
houses,  theaters,  railway  stations,  viaducts,  banking  houses, 
and  insurance  offices,  until  its  dense  population  has  over- 
flowed in  the  country  for  miles  around,  absorbing  entire 
cities,  towns,  and  villages  in  its  resistless  sweep.  The  Crys- 
tal Palace  must  be  seven  miles  from  London  Bridge  sta- 
tion; that  marvelous  house  of  glass  and  iron  were  you  to 
miss  seeing,  you  had  better  miss  London.  My  first  visit 
here  in  1872 — again  in  1878 — filled  my  memory  with  pict- 
ures of  beauty  and  loveliness  I  can  never  forget.  It  was 
"  Forester's  Day."  Our  party — which  consisted  of  Mrs.  S. 
A.  Carter  and  J.  D.  Hough,  of  Talbot  county ;  Mrs.  Elea- 
nor Wilkerson  and  Miss  Annie  Dempse'y,  of  Macon,  Ga. ; 
Monsieur  and  Madame  Piatt,  of  Mentone,  France ;  and  the 
author — in  1878,  spent  a  day  amidst  the  festivities  and  gay- 
eties  of  this  eventful  occasion.  Probably  fifty  thousand  peo- 
ple were  on  the  grounds  and  in  the  building.  I  saw  five 
thousand  children,  in  procession  nearly  one  mile  long,  file 
in  and  take  their  seats  in  one  corner  of  this  stupendous 
structure.  Here  were  the  English  people  gathered  for  a 
holiday  for  pleasure.  Everybody,  with  his  wife  and  sweet- 
heart, was  on  the  green;  romping  children,  with  rosy 
cheeks ;  father  and  mother  in  great  glee,  chasing  each  other 
over  the  velvet  sheen.  There  were  music,  dancing,  balloon 


38  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ascensions,  and  every  conceivable  amusement,  to  divert 
the  vast  multitude.  The  wildest  abandonment  and  enjoy- 
ment were  indulged  in.  The  "  kissing  ring."  O  the  magic 
spell  that  gathers  one  about  the  kissing  ring — that  thrills 
our  very  soul  and  being !  I  laughed  and  sighed  and  nearly 
died  in  seeing.  I  watched  the  balloons  float  away  until 
they  became  a  mere  speck  on  the  horizon.  Thousands  of 
people  gathered  in  rapture  around  the  playing  fountains. 
What  matchless  art !  what  perfection  and  beauty !  Around 
large  basins,  I  watched  the  crystal  streams  as  they  shot 
from  dragons'  mouths  across  each  other.  Then  the  god 
Neptune  and  the  goddess  Diana,  with  hundreds  of  lovely 
fountains  like  inverted  cataracts,  ascended  to  dizzy  heights ; 
then,  drooping  like  graceful  willow-trees,  each  pearly  drop 
descending  glistened  like  a  diamond  in  the  setting  sun. 
Some  of  these  fountains  shot  up  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high.  There  are  two  cascades  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
long,  with  a  fall  of  twelve  feet.  When  all  the  water-works 
are  playing  there  are  no  less  than  twelve  thousand  jets  in 
all,  consuming  six  million  gallons  of  water,  pumped  up  by 
powerful  steam-engines  into  enormous  water-towers,  three 
hundred  feet  high,  from  which  the  pressure  is  obtained. 
It  costs  about  one  thousand  dollars  an  hour  to  play  them. 
The  interior  of  the  palace  was  a  marvel  of  grandeur  and 
architectural  magnificence.  It  was  moved  here  from  Hyde 
Park  after  the  exhibition  in  1851.  The  present  structure 
cost  seven  million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars.  It  is  five 
hundred  yards  long,  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet  wide, 
and  center  transept  two  hundred  feet  high.  It  is  certainly 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  The  finest  representa- 
tions illustrative  of  Grecian,  Roman,  Assyrian,  Pompeiaii, 
Egyptian,  Saracenic,  Byzantine,  mediaeval,  renaissance 
architecture,  painting,  and  sculpture  adorn  its  splendid 
halls  and  galleries.  Some  ethnological  groups,  as  well  as 


Sight-seeing  in  and  About  London.  39 

statuary,  interested  me  very  much.  Fountains  are  send- 
ing up  their  slender  jets  amid  blooming  flowers  and  gar- 
dens throughout  the  building.  There  is  an  immense  deal  of 
manufacturing,  illustrating  every  branch  of  industry,  with 
several  hundred  small  shops,  where  any  article  you  may  de- 
sire can  be  purchased.  Days  might  be  spent  here  in  study 
and  endless  rounds  of  amusement. 

Hampton  Court  Palace,  once  occupied  by  King  William 
and  Queen  Mary,  presented  to  Henry  VIII.  by  Cardinal 
Wolsey,  with  its  maze  and  grape-vine,  is  another  charmed 
spot  thirteen  miles  up  the  Thames.  There  is  nothing  more 
picturesque  than  Kew  Gardens,  with  its  pretty  walks,  rare 
exotics,  and  wonderful  palm-house,  sixty  feet  high.  Here 
I  saw  coffee,  sugar-cane,  cotton,  tea,  and  oranges  growing. 
The  most  wonderful  little  plant  was  a  pitcher-plant,  that 
produced  a  perfect  representation  of  a  pitcher  with  the 
handle  to  it.  If  we  proceed  up  the  river  twenty-two  miles 
west  of  London  we  behold,  rising  in  grandeur  on  its  south- 
ern bank,  the  finest  royal  residence  in  England.  It  is 
Windsor  Castle,  a  venerable  pile,  noted  for  the  beauty  of 
its  situation.  From  the  round  tower,  two  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  above  the  Thames,  we  can  see  twelve  counties 
on  a  pretty  day.  Right  opposite  rises  Eton  College,  a  truly 
grand  edifice.  In  another  direction  there  is  the  "City 
Road  " — associated  with  the  memory  of  John  Wesley — Smith- 
field,  the  old  Cattle-market,  Hemstead,  and  Bunyan's  tomb, 
that  are  interesting  on  account  of  their  historical  associa- 
tions. England  is  the  birthplace  and  sepulcher  of  the  his- 
torian, poet,  and  scholar,  whose  names  are  immortalized  in 
verse  and  prose.  Their  works  are  read  and  sung  around 
the  globe,  and  enshrined  in  the  memory  and  loving  hearts 
of  a  grateful  world. 

Let  us  now  return  from  the  country  to  the  city — we  have 
rambled  too  far  in  its  suburbs — and  take  a  look  before  our 


40 


Around  the  World  in  IMS  4. 


Sight-seeing  in  and  About  London.  41 

departure  for  Paris.  We  went  to  Billingsgate,  the  great- 
est fish-market  in  the  world.  It  is  situated  close  by  the 
Custom-house  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames.  Such  filth  and 
dirt,  such  slang,  such  fish  and  billingsgate,  I  never  saw  or 
heard  before.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of  fish,  bread,  and 
coffee.  The  annual  sale  of  fish  is  estimated  at  £2,000,000, 
or  ten  million  dollars.  But  this  is  not  all.  There  are  forty 
other  markets  in  London  for  cattle,  meat,  corn,  hay,  vege- 
tables, etc.  The  meat-markets  are  subdivided,  or  classified. 
Some  are  for  live  stock,  others  for  dead  and  dressed  car- 
casses ;  some  for  wholesale,  others  for  retail.  The  Quarterly 
Review  gets  up  a  summary  of  the  annual  consumption  of 
food  in  the  city  that  is  astounding,  if  not  whimsical,  in  its 
way.  Its  estimates  require  seventy-two  miles  of  oxen,  ten 
abreast ;  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  sheep,  ten  abreast ; 
seven  miles  of  calves,  nine  miles  of  pigs,  fifty  acres  of  poul- 
try, packed ;  twenty  miles  of  hares  and  rabbits,  one  hundred 
abreast ;  a  pyramid  of  loaves  about  the  size  of  the  pyramid  of 
Cheops  in  Egypt ;  one  thousand  columns  of  hogsheads  of  beer, 
each  one  mile  high.  The  new  Cattle-market,  near  Holborn 
viaduct,  is  the  most  extensive.  A  carriage-road  runs  through 
this  vast  building,  with  avenues  radiating  from  it.  There 
is  an  under-ground  communication  with  a  system  of  rail- 
ways that  bring  all  the  meats  and  poultry  from  Copenhagen 
cattle-market  in  the  country,  underneath  the  market.  The 
coal  comes  from  Newcastle,  and  the  water  from  up  the 
Thames.  It  is  filtered  before  it  is  used.  The  tunnel  un- 
der the  Thames,  completed  in  1843,  has  lately  been  pur- 
chased by  the  East  London  Eailway  Company.  Forty 
trains  pass  under  the  river  every  day.  The  tunnel  was 
built  on  two  archways  thirteen  hundred  feet  long,  and  the 
descent  was  made  by  a  deep  staircase.  We  could  not  enu- 
merate the  theaters,  mu^ic-halls,  concert-rooms,  and  places 
of  amusement  in  London.  At  the  Haymarket  I  saw  nearly 


42  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

a  regiment  of  men  fight  a  sham  battle,  in  which  it  appeared 
half  the  men  were  killed.  Our  Mary  Anderson,  the  Ken- 
tucky beauty,  has  completely  fascinated  London  at  the 
Lyceum  on  the  Strand.  My  friend  Rea  had  to  pay  three 
dollars  for  a  seat  in  the  gallery.  The  Prince  of  Wales  and 
the  royal  family  have  honored  her  with  their  presence. 
Mr.  Gladstone  has  dined  her — so  reported.  The  more  I 
see  of  London  the  more  I  am  impressed  with  the  fearful 
immorality  and  depravity  that  exist,  even  among  the 
higher  classes  of  society.  A  gentleman  informed  me  at  the 
Arundel  that  respectable  women  often  come  home  drunk  to 
their  husbands.  I  believe  there  is  enough  beer  and  ale 
drank  here  to  float  the  British  navy,  yet  London  is  richer 
in  charities,  hospitals,  and  churches  than  any  city  in  the 
world.  Depravity  is  more .  apparent,  perhaps,  than  it  is  in 
smaller  cities,  on  account  of  its  dense  population. 

From  my  window  I  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  Blackfriars 
Bridge.  An  immense  flock  of  sheep  is  pressed  through  the 
crowded  street  toward  the  market,  driven  by  the  shepherd 
and  two  collie  dogs.  The  sheep  are  running  under  the 
wheels  and  breaking  up  in  front.  The  dogs  are  in  the  rear ; 
they  cannot  pass.  Their  master  moves  one  hand  for- 
ward, when  one  of  these  remarkable  little  animals  mounts 
the  backs  of  the  sheep,  jumping  from  one  to  the  other,  un- 
til he  has  reached  the  head  of  the  column,  quickly  gathering 
up  the  scattered  members  into  line.  The  entire  movement 
was  beautifully  executed,  and  the  little  dog,  having  ceased 
barking,  looks  up  for  the  approving  smiles  of  his  master. 

The  great  shipping  docks  are  at  Victoria,  eight  miles  be- 
low. Only  small  pleasure-boats,  yachts,  and  other  crafts 
pass  up  the  river  beyond  London. 

I  have  been  interested  in  studying  the  facilities  for  inter- 
communication and  travel  in  this  n^arvelous  city — how  these 
millions  of  people  are  distributed  from  center  to  circumfer- 


Sight-seeing  in  and  About  London.  43 

ence  over  its  vast  area.  I  find  there  are  railroads  running 
under  the  ground,  on  tbp  of  the  ground,  and  over  the  tops 
of  the  houses.  There  are  omnibus  lines  running  from  St. 
Paul's  down  the  Strand  to  Parliament  Square,  and  from 
these  terminal  points  in  every  direction.  There  are  thou- 
sands of  cabs,  hacks,  hansoms,  close  carriages,  dog-carts, 
and  other  vehicles  for  transportation.  You  walk  along  the 
streets,  and  presently  you  see  a  throng  of  people  descending 
a  flight  of  broad  stone  steps  down  deep  under  the  ground, 
thirty  or  forty  feet.  Here  is  a  magnificent  railway  station, 
double  tracks,  lighted  up  as  bright  as  day.  You  can  take 
one  of  these  trains  and  travel  around  under  the  city  for 
miles.  Every  few  blocks  are  stations  where  the  people  pour 
in  and  out  from  the  streets  above.  The  trains  are  lighted 
with  gas,  and  whiz  .by  each  other  like  a  flash  of  lightning. 
These  are  called  metropolitan  railways,  and  cost  five  mill- 
ion dollars  per  mile.  I  like  the  London  hansom.  It  is  a 
very  convenient  and  stylish  turnout.  It  is  a  two-wheeler, 
with  the  driver  dressed  in  livery,  sitting  high  up  behind. 
The  horse's  head  is  on  a  level  with  his  eye,  and  the  reins 
by  which  he  is  directed  are  pulled  over  the  top  of  the  ve- 
hicle. The  shortest  curves  and  turns  may  be  made  in  the 
most  crowded  thoroughfares.  The  best  way  to  see  London 
is  by  the  omnibus  lines.  There  are  no  street  railroads. 
You  get  a  seat,  if  possible,  by  the  driver,  or  on  top  hi  seats 
arranged  second-class,  protected  by  iron  railings.  You  can 
ride  five  miles  for  two  and  half-penny,  or  five  cents.  If  near 
the  coachman,  drop  a  shilling  in  his  hand,  and  all  London 
will  open  to  you  like  a  book.  What  immense  deal  of  sight- 
seeing and  gossip  may  be  indulged  in,  now  that  the  ice  is 
broken !  From  St.  Paul's,  on  Ludgate  Hill,  by  Holborn  Cir- 
cus down  the  Strand  to  Parliament  Square,  miles  away, 
you  may  study  the  gorgeo«us  display  of  the  shop-windows, 
the  surging  masses  that  press  on  either  side  for  room  or  en- 


44  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

trance,  and  the  almost  impenetrable  jam  in  the  street  ex- 
cites the  profoundest  wonder  how  anybody  escapes  being 
crushed  to  death.  You  see  the  pedestrian  with  his  carpet- 
bag and  umbrella  under  his  arm ;  the  wife  in  her  furs ;  boys, 
dogs,  carts,  carriages,  wagons,  cattle,  sheep,  in  inextricable 
confusion.  We  stop,  then  move;  our  driver  becomes  en- 
raged. I  am  afraid  he  is  not  a  member  of  St.  Paul's. 
But  patience  has  its  victories  no  less  renowned  than  war. 
We  pass  Charing  Cross  through  Trafalgar  Square  under 
the  shadow  of  the  great  Nelson  Monument,  and  finally 
reach  our  destination.  We  saw  Eothschild,  the  money  king, 
in  his  buggy  drawn  by  two  black  ponies.  Everybody  was 
pointing  him  out.  I  should  not  have  known  him  from  oth- 
er men. 

We  returned  by  the  Thames  Embankment,  a  quiet  way 
along  the  river,  that  seemed  to  flow  as  quietly  as  sweet 
Afton.  The  piers  and  engineering  of  this  work  are  among 
the  grandest  achievements  of  modern  science.  The  English 
have  erected  on  the  Embankment  the  obelisk  from  Heliop- 
olis,  presented  by  the  Khedive  of  Egypt.  The  hieroglyphics, 
birds,  reptiles,  etc.,  engraved  on  the  face  of  the  monolith, 
look  back  into  the  mysterious  past  three  thousand  years  of 
Egyptian  history.  Its  consort  may  be  seen  in  the  Central 
Park  of  New  York.  The  Eosetta  stone,  found  by  an  En- 
glish officer  at  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Nile,  by  which 
these  characters  have  been  translated  in  a  written  language, 
may  be  seen  in  the  British  Museum  among  the  Egyptian 
antiquities. 


London — English  Channel — Paris.  45 

CHAPTER  IV. 

LONDON — ENGLISH  CHANNEL — PARIS. 

I  WAS  just  thinking  how  delightful    it  was   to  travel 
abroad  for  our  pleasure.     We  seek  it  in  every  flower, 
in  the  river,  the  valley,  and  the  sea,  and  sometimes  in  my 
sorrows  it  is  waiting  for  me. 

Drs.  Punshon  and  Spurgeon  are  among  the  noted  preach- 
ers we  hear  in  London.  It  is  said,  when  they  want  to  take 
up  a  big  collection,  they  invite  the  Lord  Mayor  to  hear  Dr. 
Punshon  preach.  I  had  great  curiosity  to  visit  the  Taber- 
nacle, for  Spurgeon's  fame  had  encircled  the  globe,  and 
had  even  reached  my  home  when  I  was  a  boy.  My  good 
landlady  had  greatly  honored  me  with  a  ticket  to  the  fam- 
ily pew;  but  imagine  my  discomfiture  when  I  entered  to 
find  a  half-dozen  people  trying  to  occupy  that  seat.  I  ad- 
vanced to  the  pulpit  steps,  where  I  sat  within  thirty  feet  of 
the  distinguished  speaker.  Here  stood  a  short,  heavy, 
thick-set  man,  with  massive  brow  and  broad  shoulders.  One 
distinctive  feature  would  have  stamped  his  nationality  if 
others  had  been  wanting — it  was  the  mutton-chop  whiskers. 
Mr.  Spurgeon  appeared  about  fifty  years  of  age.  He  was 
dressed  in  faultless  black.  He  stood  for  a  moment,  casting 
a  glance  over  his  vast  audience.  Presently  he  read  a  chap- 
ter from  the  Bible ;  then  the  people  began  to  sing.  There 
were  supposed  to  be  five  thousand  persons  present.  Every- 
body sung  in  true  old  Georgia  style.  The  chorus  was  grand. 
After  prayer,  another  song.  Mr.  Spurgeon  then  selected 
for  his  text  this  passage,  if  I  remember  correctly:  "By 
his  stripes  we  are  healed."  In  the  treatment  of  his  subject, 
he  rose  sometimes  to  grand  flights  of  eloquence.  His  style 
is  pleasing  and  argumentative,  while  oftentimes  very  im- 
pressive. He  is  very  forcible  in  illustrations,  and  deals 
more  with  facts  than  in  platitudes  or  generalities.  Mr. 


46  Around  the  World  in  1884* 


Spurgeon  is  a  bold,  fearless  speaker,  full  of  individual  char- 
acteristics and  personal  magnetism.  In  speaking  of  pure 
religion,  he  proclaimed  in  a  stentorian  voice :  "Away  with 
this  humbuggery  and  fraud — the  Bishop  of  Canterbury  and 
the  Pope  of  Rome !  Nothing  but  the  blood  of  Christ  can 
save  you."  I  soon  discovered,  as  I  thought,  the  secret  of 
his  phenomenal  success.  It  is  not  so  much  what  he  says, 
but  his  forcible  illustrations,  delineations,  and  apt  expres- 
sions. His  congregations,  too,  are  composed  of  the  very 
material  to  develop  the  power  of  his  effective  ministry. 
These  people  are  the  medium,  rather  than  the  aristocratic, 
classes.  They  are  workingmen,  mechanics,  artisans — the 
muscular  development  of  the  physical  power  in  this  great 
metropolis.  This  class  is  opposed  to  the  aristocracy,  the 
Established  Church  (Episcopal),  and  the  monarchy  of  the 
Government.  This  dissension  element,  then,  gives  addi- 
tional inspiration  to  Spurgeon's  effectual  work. 

I  think  England,  in  religion  as  well  as  in  politics,  is  grow- 
ing more  tolerant  and  democratic.  There  are  radical 
changes  in  progress  throughout  the  kingdom,  and  I  am 
struck  with  the  growing  tendency  of  the  masses  toward  re- 
publican ideas  and  institutions.  I  have  heard  the  gentry 
and  aristocracy,  in  the  discussion  of  abstruse  political  ques- 
tions, express  grave  apprehensions  for  the  future.  The 
troubles  in  Ireland,  the  land  tenure-bills  before  Parliament, 
with  Parnell  and  his  colleagues,  are  threatening  causes. 
The  Eastern  trouble  with  Egypt  and  the  impending  rupt- 
ure with  Russia — which  must  eventually  come — have  pre- 
sented complicated  questions  before  Mr.  Gladstone's  ad- 
ministration. The  Government  has  conceded  to  Ireland, 
it  seems,  every  thing  the  country  ought  reasonably  to  ex- 
pect: but  the  irritable  temper  of  the-  Irish  people  never 
allows  them  to  be  satisfied.  There  is  a  war  party  and  a 
peace  party  on  the  question  of  Egyptian  occupation.  "The 


London — English  Channel — Paris. 


47 


KIOHT   HON.  W.  E.  GLADSTONE. 

crops  have  been  bad  and  trade  dull,"  you  will  hear  wher- 
ever you  travel  through  England.  These  are  serious  con- 
fronting difficulties  before  the  country  and  Government. 
An  Englishman  remarked  to  me :  "  You  Americans  are  lay- 
ing down  corn,  beef,  flour,  and  mutton  cheaper  than  we 
can  grow  them.  We  buy  nearly  all  our  cheese  and  but- 
ter from  you;  but  your  Government,  in  return,  taxes  our 
manufactured  goods  out  of  your  markets.  The  balance 


48  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  trade  is  against  us.  Farming  does  not  pay  here;  and 
the  overproduction  of  manufactured  goods,  without  a  pro- 
portionate ratio  of  consumption,  is  a  serious  question  to  be 
solved."  "  Sow  your  lands  in  grass,  and  raise  more  beef  and 
mutton,"  said  I,  by  way  of  consolation.  "  But  England 
cannot  compete  with  America.  Your  cheap  lands  and  vast 
prairies  give  you  the  advantage."  It  is  a  source  of  morti- 
fication to  the  pride  of  English  aristocracy  that  many  of 
their  splendid  estates  in  Ireland,  even  in  England  and  Scot- 
land, have  been  reduced  so  low  in  their  incomes  they  have 
been  compelled  to  neglect  or  abandon  them. 

In  1878  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  several  Georgians  in 
London.  Many  were  here  attending  the  Exposition  in  Paris, 
and  several  had  extended  their  travels  into  the  Holy  Land. 
I  had  met  Messrs.  A.  P.  Collins  and  Jack  Martin  coming 
out  of  Warwick  Castle,  and  A.  O.  Bacon  and  Capt.  John 
Rutherford,  all  of  Macon,  Ga.,  under  the  shadow  of  the 
great  dome  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral.  The  Southern  gentle- 
man is  regarded  with  profound  respect  by  the  English 
gentry.  I  have  heard  many  express  their  loftiest  admira- 
tion for  Lee  and  Jackson  and  my  countrymen  of  the  South. 
How  I  wish  they  could  have  seen  the  fair  ladies  of  my 
native  land!  Quite  a  number  of  other  distinguished  Geor- 
gians were  on  the  Continent.  Hon.  R.  E.  Park  and  lady, 
Mr.  L.  M.  Park  and  lady,  Mr.  Jack  Crutchfield,  of  Macon, 
and  others,  were  attending  the  great  Exposition.  My  own 
party  consisted  of  Mrs.  E.  Wilkinson  and  Miss  Annie 
Demp%y,  of  Macon ;  Mrs.  Susie  A.  Carter  and  J.  D.  Hough, 
of  Talbdtton ;  who  were  joined  by  the  Hon.  Charles  Piatt 
and  lady,  en  route  to  Mentone,  France,  Maritime  Alps. 
I  had  met  Charley's  wife  once,  when  a  girl,  in  her  uncle's 
curio-bhop,  in  Berne,  Switzerland.  We  recognized  each 
other  on  board  ship,  soon  after  leaving  New  York.  She 
was  a  Swiss  girl,  spoke  beautiful  French  and  English,  and 


London — English  Channel — Paris.  49 

had  married  Mr.  Piatt  while  on  a  visit  to  some  friends  in 
Cincinnati.  Charley  had  secured  a  consulate  at  Mentone, 
and  now  she  was  returning  happily,  with  a  good  husband, 
to  her  native  land.  It  was  the  pleasant  memory  of  these 
old  associations  that  induced  me  to  stop  at  the  same  hotel 
at  Blackfriars,  and  to  take  the  old  favorite  route  by  Kouen 
to  Paris.  The  distance  across  the  English  Channel  by 
New  Haven  and  Dieppe  is  longer  than  by  Dover  and 
Calais,  but  the  valley  of  the  Seine  is  charming.  There  is 
still  another  route  by  Folkstone  and  Boulogne.  I  have 
gone  a  little  shorter ;  but  it  is  only  twenty-two  miles  from 
Dover  Heights  to  Calais,  while  it  is  sixty  to  eighty  miles 
by  the  other  lines  across.  This  channel,  which  divides  En- 
gland from  France,  is  the  dread  of  all  tourists.  The  North 
German  Sea  pours  through  the  channel  into  the  Atlantic, 
or  the  two  waters  meet,  producing  tremendous  tides.  It  is 
nearly  always  rough.  Experiments  have  been  made  with 
swinging  berths  on  the  boats,  to  obviate  the  vertigo,  but 
they  have  proved  a  failure.  There  is  a  big  gun  on  Dover 
Heights,  which  the  English  say  has  this  story  connected 
with  it : 

Keep  me  dry  and  rub  me  clean, 

And  I'll  shoot  you  across  to  Calais  green. 

I  have  sometimes  thought  I  would  like  to  be  shot  across 
this  English  Channel.  One  time  I  was  crossing  it  on  a 
dreadful  stormy  night,  and  the  heavy  sea  broke  down  the 
awning  and  frightened  nearly  all  the  passengers  into  the 
cabin  below.  I  was  sitting  near  an  old  lady  when  the  panic 
began,  holding  on  to  the  ship  with  all  my  strength,  and 
she  gathered  me  around  the  neck  and  came  near  hugging 
me  to  death.  She  like  to  have  smothered  me ;  but  if  she 
had  been  sixteen,  and  the  ship  had  gone  down,  I  never 
would  have  known  it! 

It  is  ten  to  fourteen  hours  between  London  and  Paris,  by 
4 


50  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  direct  trains,  first-class.  We  have  understood  every 
word  we  have  heard  in  England ;  we  have  been  enabled  to 
talk  fluently  with  the  most  notorious  people ;  we  have  felt 
perfectly  at  home;  we  have  even  conversed  with  the  En- 
glish cockney  who  says  "  wa'al,"  "  rarther,"  etc. ;  but  it  is  dif- 
ferent the  moment  you  land  in  France.  You  hear  a  strange 
language,  and  you  see  a  strange  people.  You  must  be 
ready  if  you  talk  with  a  Frenchman.  My  companion  Den- 
ham  had  been  studying  French  ever  since  we  left  New 
York.  He  carried  a  little  book  in  his  side-pocket  that  had 
French  on  one  side  translated  into  English  on  the  other. 
He  regarded  himself  thoroughly  equipped  for  any  advent- 
ure in  France.  The  moment  we  landed  at  Dieppe  an  un- 
educated native  fired  away  at  him,  and  Denham  lost  his 
balance.  He  had  forgotten  the  only  two  words  he  had  ac- 
quired by  hard  study.  Finally  the  conversation  resulted 
in  vociferous  language,  Denham  having  cussed  him  out  in 
English,  which  he  never  understood.  It  was  a  custom- 
house official,  who  wanted  to  examine  the  baggage. 

When  we  landed  in  Paris  everybody  spoke  French  ex- 
cept us.  Even  the  children  spoke  it.  We  wanted  to  go  to 
a  hotel.  We  selected  the  longest  name  we  could  find  in 
D.'sbook — H6tel  de  1'Athen^e,  Eue  Scribe.  We  registered. 
The  servant  showed  us  up  a  palatial  stair- way  into  a  suit  of 
rooms — gorgeously  frescoed  chambers  hung  with  gobelin 
tapestry ;  paintings,  mirrors,  Oriental  lounges,  divans,  gilded 
chairs,  marble  basins,  and  velvet  cushions  to  put  our  feet 
on.  Denham  remarked,  by  way  of  innuendo,  we  had  better 
inquire  the  price  of  board  at  this  establishment.  They  had 
certainly  made  a  mistake,  and  put  us  in  the  Queen's  apart- 
ments. Thirty  francs  each  per  day,  or  twelve  dollars  for 
both.  We  did  not  inquire  if  this  was  the  price  of  the  room, 
or  included  board.  It  was  too  gorgeous  for  us.  We  moved 
to  Rue  Provence,  at  sixty  dollars  per  month.  Then  every 


London — Dnglish  Channel — Paris.  51 

night  we  walked  up  there  or  to  the  Grand  Hotel  near  by 
on  Boulevard  de  Capucine,  and  everybody  thought  we  were 
stopping  there.  D.  said  we  could  eat  at  the  cafes  and  use 
our  tooth-picks  about  the  big  hotels,  and  do  just  as  well. 
Many  Americans  did  it.  Once,  just  to  be  certain  of  the 
thing,  we  took  "cafe  au  lait"  in  the  Grand  Hotel,  and 
everybody  saw  us  as  we  walked  out  of  the  frescoed  saloon. 
You  would  have  supposed  we  were  the  proprietors  of  the 
house.  But  we  were  perfectly  surprised  to  find  Americans 
here  who  could  scarcely  speak  their  language.  They  would 
register  their  names  in  French:  "Messieurs  A.  Kobinsong 
et  fils ;  Monsieur  Jean  Smidt,  New  York,  De  1' Amerique." 
The  second  day  D.  and  I  took  a  pleasure  drive  five  miles 
down  the  boulevards  to  the  North-west  Railroad  depot. 
The  driver  was  a  Frenchman ;  he  could  not  speak  a  word 
of  English.  He  handed  us  his  "carte"  by  the  hour.  We 
had  actually  driven  nearly  half  a  day,  and  no  depot  yet. 
We  had  to  touch  him  on  the  shoulder  and  request  a  stop ; 
for  it  was  getting  too  ubiquitous.  It  was  growing  monoto- 
nous, to  say  the  least  of  it.  We  had  a  pair  of  new  trousers 
we  were  expecting  by  the  parcel  express  from  London. 
When  we  would  ask  the  cabman  where  the  depot  was  (we 
knew  that  depot  was  a  French  word  in  Georgia),  he  would 
invariably  shrug  his  shoulders  and  look  wondrous  wise. 
"Je  ne  comprends  pas,"  he  would  say.  D.  thought  he  was 
an  idiot — that  he  was  crazy.  I  jumped  out  the  "  la  voiture" 
to  interview  an  educated  gentleman  crossing  the  street. 
Says  I,  "Oui  est  la  depot?  Si'  1'vous  plait?  Now,  D.  you 
see  he  is  a  cultivated  citizen."  He  shrugged  his  shoulders. 
"Where  is  the  depot?"  shouted  D.  "Hold  on,  D.,  if  you 
please ;  do  n't  disturb  our  conversation  with  the  gentleman. 
Oui  est  la  depot ;  la  breechee,  trousays — pantaloons,  if  you 
please?"  The  Frenchman  was  perfectly  amazed.  He  gazed 
into  the  heavens  like  an  astronomer.  Then  D.  and  the 


52  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

driver  looked  into  the  little  book.  The  gentleman  stood 
waiting  until  I  could  run  and  look  in  myself.  We  found 
"depot"  meant  a  depository  for  military  stores — a  magazine 
of  powder,  for  instance.  I  could  not  find  a  word  for  panta- 
loons, breeches,  or  trousers  in  the  French  language.  D. 
said:  "Dad  blast  such  a  language,  with  no  breeches  in  it!" 
The  gentleman  stood  waiting  in  the  street.  I  placed  my 
finger  on  the  French  word  for  railroad — "  che  min  de  fer " 
— and  then  he  politely  showed  me  the  station.  "  No  depot, 
monsieur,"  he  would  say,  "la  station,  Si'  1'vous  plait." 
And  that  was  the  way  we  found  the  station.  We  never  did 
find  those  pantaloons. 

There  are  many  amusing  mistakes  made  in  learning  the 
language.  Dr.  B.,  of  Columbus,  Georgia,  asked,  as  he 
thought,  for  a  drink  of  cold  water,  and  a  hot  bath  was  pre- 
pared for  him.  Col.  W.  H.  Young,  of  the  same  city,  re- 
lated many  amusing  incidents  that  occurred  during  his 
travels  on  the  Continent.  It  is  so  with  nearly  all  foreigners. 
An  American,  once,  landing  at  "  Boulogne  sur  de  mer,"  ad- 
dressed a  Frenchman  with  the  familiar  expression,  "  Parlez 
vous  Franyaise?  "  "  Oui,  monsieur,"  replied  the  fisherman. 
"  Well,  pass  me  that  gridiron  over  here." 

If  London  is  attractive,  Paris  is  perfectly  charming.  It 
is  by  far  the  most  splendid  capital  in  the  world.  Its  fount- 
ains, palaces,  drives,  gardens,  museums,  promenades,  its 
magnificent  boulevards  and  galleries  of  art,  are  the  admi- 
ration of  the  world.  Its  environs  are  equally  attractive. 
Days  might  be  spent  in  exploring  the  palace  of  Louis  XIV. 
at  Versailles — its  two  hundred  acres  of  fountains,  forest  of 
statuary,  and  terraced  gardens. 

We  drove  from  the  Notre  Dame  Cathedral,  where  Napo- 
leon and  Josephine  were  married,  through  the  Avenue  des 
Champs  Elysees,  by  the  Arc  de  Triomphe ;  then  through  the 
Bois  de  Boulogne,  past  St.  Cloud,  to  the  imperial  city  of 


London — English  Channel — Paris.  53 

Versailles.  What  grandeur,  what  magnificence  and  beauty 
we  beheld  that  day  can  be  better  imagined  than  described. 
The  picture  of  thousands  of  people  dressed  in  gay  costumes 
around  the  fountains  playing  on  Sunday  recalled  the 
scenes  of  fairy-land.  Every  thing  about  Versailles  is  on  a 
grand  scale.  The  palace  is  magnificent,  its  fountains  lovely , 
its  sylvan  lakes,  its  woods  of  endless  avenues,  its  Swiss  cot- 
tages, its  orangery,  its  grand  flights  of  stone  steps,  are  inde- 
scribably grand.  Louis  XIV.  spent  two  hundred  millions 
of  dollars  on  this  palace  and  grounds.  It  required  more 
than  thirty  thousand  men  daily  to  construct  it,  and  a  tract 
of  land  sixty  miles  in  circumference  was  converted  from  a 
wilderness  into  this  marvelous  creation.  He  then  built  a 
road  fourteen  miles  long  to  connect  it  with  Paris.  It  came 
near  bankrupting  France.*  We  returned  by  Sevre,  the 
Government  porcelain  works,  and  saw  the  artisans  creating 
by  hand  the  most  marvelous  works  of  art.  A  little  piece 
of  clay,  deftly  worked  with  the  fingers,  is  converted  into  a 
pair  of  vases  worth  one  thousand  dollars. 

We  visited  the  Morgue,  that  awful  house  of  the  dead, 
where  the  bodies  of  those  who  die  mysteriously  are  exposed 
for  identification.  We  looked  through  a  grating,  and  saw 
the  hats  and  clothes  of  dead  men  and  women  hung  all 
around  the  inclosure.  There  was  a  body  half  nude  laid  on 
a  marble  slab,  with  a  jet  of  cold  water  pouring  on  it.  Peo- 
ple came  and  looked  through  the  bars,  cast  a  glance  at 
the  clothing,  and  walked  solemnly  away.  Thousands  of 
these  bodies  are  fished  up  out  of  the  river  Seine,  which  passes 
close  by,  murmuring  its  quiet  requiem  to  the  unfortunate 
dead  as  it  flows. 

We  passed  on  through  the  Latin  quarter  of  the  students, 
and  presently  came  in  front  of  the  Pantheon,  whose  lofty 
dome  we  had  seen  from  every  part  of  New  Paris.  Several 
cannon-shots  were  shown  us  that  penetrated  the  building 

*It  brought  on  the  ^Revolution. 


54  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

during  the  rebellion  of  the  Commune  in  1870.  We  ascend- 
ed to  the  summit  of  its  splendid  dome,  and  viewed  the  pan- 
orama of  Paris  below. 

We  wandered  along  until  we  came  to  the  isle  of  St.  Louis, 
in  the  river  Seine.  Here  rose  Notre  Dame  Cathedral,  an 
old  brown  Gothic  pile,  with  a  splendid  facade  of  rich  carv- 
ings and  its  two  lofty,  square  towers.  It  is  six  hundred 
years  old.  These  old  towers  saw  the  mail-clad  knights  from 
Jerusalem  come  marching  home;  they  looked  down  upon 
Bartholomew's  massacre  in  1572,  and  witnessed  the  carnage 
of  that  dreadful  struggle;  they  saw  the  Ee volution,  the  two 
Napoleons  crowned,  and  have  lived  to  see  the  fall  of  Na- 
poleon III.  in  1870,  and  the  restoration  of  the  republic. 
We  walked  down  its  gloomy  aisles,  dazzled  with  the  light 
that  streamed  through  its  stained-glass  windows.  I  saw 
yellow,  blue,  and  red  saints  and  martyrs  painted  on  them. 
We  saw  many  paintings  representing  the  apostles,  the  Vir- 
gin Mary,  and  the  cross,  hanging  on  the  walls.  Then  the 
priest  carried  us  across  through  a  wilderness  of  tall  columns 
and  showed  the  robes  the  Pope  wore  when  he  crowned  Na- 
poleon III.,  a  cart-load  of  solid  gold  and  silver  plate  he  said 
the  Commune  had  stolen  during  the  [Revolution,  and  the 
bloody  robes  of  the  great  Archbishop  of  Paris  who  mount- 
ed the  barricades  in  1848  to  paqify  the  mob,  which  cost  him 
his  life.  He  said  the  soldiers  had  once  quartered  their 
horses  in  this  magnificent  cathedral.  We  departed  as  un- 
happy as  we  came ;  we  wanted  to  see  more.  D.  said  as  it 
was  night,  and  all  Paris  was  lit  up  as  bright  as  day,  we  had 
better  not  do  any  more  melancholy  cathedrals  or  morgues, 
or  even  revel  in  the  splendor  of  gorgeous  palaces.  We  had 
better  see  some  fun. 

We  dined  at  our  hotel  from  four  to  six — Hotel  Sterh,  fifty- 
five  Rue  Provence.  D.  always  took  wine;  he  was  accus- 
tomed to  it.  But  those  little  plates  wore  out  his  fortitude. 


London — English  Channel — Paris.  55 

They  serve  one  at  a  time,  with  a  bit  of  chicken,  one  vege- 
table, a  piece  of  roast,  an  Irish  potato  upon  it ;  one  piece  of 
bread  and  a  diminutive  piece  of  butter.  When  the  claw- 
hammer waiter  came  with  one  of  these  plates  he  set  it  down, 
and  fell  back  with  arms  folded  in  dignified  reserve.  D. 
and  I  generally  ate  up  ours  before  he  could  fall  back. 
Then  we  would  have  to  sit  and  wait  until  next  course.  We 
destroyed  about  a  dozen  of  these  side-dishes,  and  generally 
felt  as  hungry  as  when  we  commenced.  D.  said  it  reminded 
him  of  a  play  in  Shakespeare,  this  dinner  did — "  Much  Ado 
About  Nothing." 

Sometimes  we  would  take  a  carriage,  then  an  omnibus,  or 
we  would  walk.  There  are  no  street -cars  "in  Paris.  At 
night  we  generally  had  a  promenade.  D.  said  we  must  see 
the  Champs  Elysees,  the  marvelous  avenue  of  pleasure 
that  sweeps  from  the  Tuilleries  Gardens  through  a  wooded 
park  ablaze  with  myriads  of  twinkling  lights  and  playing 
fountains.  Here  were  thousands  of  chairs  arranged  in  line 
where  we  could  rest,  when  fatigued,  and  watch  the  number- 
less flashing  lanterns  from  moving  carriages  that  glided  by 
us  as  if  they  were  gondolas  on  the  water.  Away  down  this 
splendid  vista  the  grand  avenue  rose  to  a  slight  elevation, 
upon  which  stood  the  Arc  de  Triomphe.  We  could  see 
through  the  open  woods  numerous  Chantant  gardens,  with 
their  names  burning  in  colored  gas-jets.  Below  was  an  im- 
perial circus,  and  still  farther  away  was  the  famous  Ma- 
bille.  D.  said  the  Chantant  gardens  just  fascinated  him. 
They  were  the  only  free  places  he  had  found  in  Paris ;  at 
least  we  had  supposed  so  from  the  notice  at  the  entrance, 
"  No  charge  for  admission."  As  we  approached  the  door 
we  heard  delicious  strains  of  music  swelling  and  dying  away 
amid  parterres  of  beautiful  flowers.  We  were  seated  in  front 
of  an  open  stage  with  an  awning  overhead.  The  garden 
was  full  of  elegant  people,  sipping  small  cups  of  coffee,  ices. 


56  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

and  lemonade.  The  servant  approached  with  a  card.  We 
ordered,  D.  taking  wine,  as  usual.  Presently  the  band  be- 
gan to  play,  when  the  stage  and  the  whole  garden  were  lit 
up  as  bright  as  day.  The  manager  announced  the  pro- 
gramme. Two  men  stepped  out,  bowed,  said  something, 
and  left  the  audience  convulsed  with  laughter.  Everybody 
roared.  We  roared  too.  It  was  some  witty  thing  they  said 
in  French.  Then  a  charming  mademoiselle,  just  so  petit, 
just  so  cunning,  just  so  sweet  as  she  could  be,  smiled  and 
bowed,  and  put  her  little  finger  between  her  pearly  teeth. 
She  sung  a  song  and  retired  beneath  her  numerous  blushes. 
D.  said  that  was  the  prettiest  girl  he  ever  saw — she  had 
such  charming  red  lips  and  rosy  cheeks.  He  would  not 
mind  marrying  that  girl.  We  rose  to  leave,  perfectly  de- 
lighted, when  this  same  piratic-looking  fellow  who  brought 
the  ices  presented  a  bill.  It  seemed  nearly  a  yard  long. 
We  looked  at  each  other  in  utter  amazement.  D.  declared 
it  was  a  fraud.  He  knew  it  was  all  free — saw  it  on  the 
gate-post!  He  then  intimated  that  a  few  more  entertain- 
ments like  that  would  throw  him  into  the  bankrupt  court. 
,  We  started  out  toward  the  avenue  again,  and  took  one  of 
those  refreshing  seats.  Presently  an  old  woman  came  hob- 
bling around  with  a  little  pocket  in  front,  and  spoke  to  D. 
D.  said:  "What  in  the  world  do  you  want  now,  old  lady? 
I  am  not  troubling  you."  "Pay'e  moi  si'  1'vous,  plait?" 
"  What  does  that  old  idiot  say  ?  I  believe  she  is  plumb  crazy 
— a  lunatic."  "Yes,  D.,  she  wants  pay  for  that  seat  you 
are  sitting  in."  "Why,  stuff;  they  don't  charge  here,  do 
they,  for  sitting  down?" 

'  We  went  to  the  royal  circus  just  to  see  the  animals. 
There  was  a  little  stool  at  every  seat,  and  D.  thoughtlessly 
put  his  foot  on  one  of  them.  Presently  here  came  that 
same  old  woman,  or  one  just  like  her,  with  the  little  wallet 
in  front.  "  Here  it  is ;  I  know  what  you  want.  Come,  let 's 


Sights  and  Scenes  in  Paris.  57 

get  out  of  here ! "  shouted  D.  "  I  never  saw  such  folks.  You 
can't  sit  down,  or  even  put  your  foot  on  a  stool,  without 
paying  for  it. 


CHAPTER  V.     • 
SIGHTS  AND  SCENES  IN  PARIS. 

WE  visited  the  Louvre,  the  most  wonderful  gallery  of 
painting  and  sculpture  in  the  world,  except  the  Vati- 
can at  Rome.  We  walked  miles  through  its  marble  halls, 
gazing  upon  the  creations  of  Rubens,  Vandyke,  Tintoretto, 
and  Andrea  del  Sarto — every  school  from  the  Flemish  re- 
naissance to  modern  art  being  represented  in  its  vast  collec- 
tions. There  are  hundreds  of  artists,  with  their  little  lad- 
ders, all  through  this  palatial  building,  copying  the  most 
noted  works  of  the  masters.  The  Apollo  Belvedere  and 
several  lovely  Venuses  are  among  the  triumphs  of  ancient 
art.  Those  old  Greeks  and  Romans  did  know  how  to  chisel 
a  pretty  woman  out  of  a  piece  of  marble. 

The  Hotel  Cluny  is  an  interesting  old  place  to  visit  on 
account  of  its  great  antiquity  and  rare  collection  of  curios. 
We  stood  under  the  gilded  dome  of  the  Hotel  des  Inva- 
lides  that  holds  in  grateful  repose  the  last  remains  of  the 
great  Napoleon.  His  battle-flags,  that  waved  in  triumph 
over  the  bloody  fields  of  Marengo,  Austerlitz,  and  Lodi, 
are  furled  in  silence  around  his  magnificent  tomb.  Upon 
the  entrance  is  this  inscription:  "I  desire  my  ashes  shall 
rest  upon  the  banks  of  the  Seine,  among  a  people  I  loved  so 
well."  I  saw  an  old  soldier  here  who  fought  at  the  battle 
of  Waterloo. 

We  visited  the  beautiful  Church  of  the  Madeleine,  with 
its  gorgeously  frescoed  ceilings.  Unlike  many  cathedrals, 
it  is  well  provided  with  comfortable  seats. 

The  Colonne  de  Juillet,  or  Column  of  July,  is  one  of  the 


58  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

grand  monuments  of  Paris,  erected  on  the  site  of  the  Baa- 
tile.  Here  Louis  Philippe  was  presented  to  the  people  by 
Lafayette,  and  here  has  flowed  the  blood  of  revolutions. 

As  you  walk  down  Rue  la  Paix  you  arrive  at  Place 
Vendome.  From  this  spot  rises  a  monument  one  hundred  and 
thirty-five  feet  high,  built  out  of  twelve  hundred  cannons  the 
great  Napoleon  captured  from  the  Austrians  and  Russians, 
surmounted  by  a  statue  of  the  Emperor.  It  is  modeled 
after  Trajan's  column  in  Rome.  The  bass-reliefs  on  the  base 
and  column  represent  his  victories.  There  is  a  winding 
staircase  inside,  composed  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-six 
steps,  by  which  the  summit  may  be  reached  and  a  glorious 
view  of  Paris  enjoyed.  The  Arc  de  Triomphe,  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  Bois  du  Boulogne,  cost  five  million  dollars, 
and  presents  fine  representations  of  Lodi  and  other  battles 
carved  in  the  solid  stone. 

The  sewers  under  Paris  are  large  enough  to  drive  a  car- 
riage through,  and  the  catacombs,  which  we  have  explored 
forty  feet  beneath  the  city,  contain  streets  of  solid  bones 
many  miles  in  length.  The  different  bones  are  so  arranged 
in  crosses,  horizontally  and  vertically,  as  to  produce  a  pleas- 
ing, artistic  effect ;  the  skulls,  with  their  grinning  teeth  and 
eyeless  sockets,  being  piled  in  solid  tiers  by  the  tens  of  thou- 
sands along  these  avenues.  I  saw  many  pretty  inscrip- 
tions and  tombs  loving  hands  have  placed  as  tributes  to  de- 
parted worth.  Each  of  us  followed  the  guide  with  a  candle 
through  these  dark  labyrinths  of  streets.  The  bones  of 
three  million  people  repose  beneath  the  city  of  Paris,  while 
over  two  million  are  overhead.  The  overburdened  cemeter- 
ies are  relieved  by  removal  to  these  vast  receptacles,  from 
which  the  material  has  been  obtained  for  building  up  the 
magnificent  city  of  Paris  and  its  numerous  splendid  monu- 
ments. People  are  buried  in  Paris  by  an  organized  com 
pany,  which  seems  to  have  a  monopoly  of  the  business. 


Sights  and  Scenes  in  Paris. 


The  magnificence  of  a  funeral  and  length  of  c6rtege  are 
determined  by  the  wealth  of  the  mourners.  A  poor  man 
goes  in  the  ditches  at  the  city's  expense,  and  his  bones,  after 
awhile,  are  removed  to  the  catacombs.  The  rich  are  in- 
terred in  Pere  la  Chaise  and  Montmartre.  One  of  the 
most  interesting  visits  we  made  was  to  the  former,  the  na- 
tional bury  ing-ground  of  France,  where  the  most  illustri- 
ous of  her  dead  men  and  women  repose.  Pere  la  Chaise  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  overlooking  the 
city  from  a  commanding  eminence.  It  has  many  streets 
leading  through  it,  on  which  are  built  thousands  of  little 
stone  houses,  with  doors  and  windows,  for  all  the  world 
like  a  city,  but  it  is  a  city  of  the  dead.  I  looked  through 
the  glass  doors  upon  the  Virgin  Mary,  the  cross,  and  the 
family  altar,  where  devotional  exercises  are  often  paid  by 
the  living  mourners.  On  top  of  the  hill  a  simple  slab  with 
the  name  of  Ney  carved  on  the  door-sill  is  all  I  saw  of 
this  grand  old  hero,  "whose  stormy  spirit  knew  no  music 
like  the  bugle-call  to  arms."  Here  Rachel  and  Massena, 
in  tragedy  repose;  Laplace,  the  astronomer,  and  La  Fon- 
taine, with  many  other  illustrious  personages  whose  names 
are  written  on  their  monuments  in  Pere  la  Chaise.  Near 
the  gate,  to  the  right  as  we  entered,  we  found  the  grave  of 
Abelard  and  Heloise,  whose  romantic  story  of  love  has 
been  written  and  sung  throughout  the  world.  "Go  when 
you  will,  you  find  somebody  snuffling  over  that  tomb."  Yet 
how  few  know  the  true  history  of  these  remarkable  people ! 
Abelard  was  a  priest.  He  married  this  woman  secretly,  to 
keep  his  own  name  untarnished,  while  her  good  name  re- 
mained under  a  cloud  as  before.  Here  was  a  noble,  self- 
sacrificing  love,  but  it  lacked  discretion.  A  man  of  tower- 
ing ability,  Abelard  finally  died  a  wreck.  He  was  buried 
in  Hotel  Cluny,  in  A.D.  1144;  and  Heloise  died  twenty 
years  later,  and  was  buried  with  him.  On  top  of  the  tomb 


60  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

there  are  reclining  figures  representing  the  unfortunate 
lovers. 

Near  the  Rue  de  Rivoli  and  the  Garden  of  the  Tuilleries 
stand  four  splendid  monuments,  representing  Metz,  Stras- 
burg,  and  other  cities  of  the  empire  at  that  time.  One  of 
the  four  Egyptian  obelisks,  that  originally  came  from  Heli,- 
opolis  and  Alexandria,  of  which  the  other  three  now  stand 
in  Rome,  London,  and  New  York,  rises  sixty  feet  high  on 
this  historic  spot.  This  is  the  famous  Place  de  la  Concorde, 
on  which  the  guillotine  was  worked  during  the  Revolution 
of  1789.  Here  Louis  XVI.,  Robespierre,  Marie  Antoinette, 
Madame  Roland,  and  thousands  of  others,  perished.  The 
words  that  confront  us  on  the  public  buildings — in  fact 
everywhere — "Liberte*,  Fraternite*,  and  Egalite","  and  the 
statue  of  the  "Genius  of  Liberty"  that  rises  on  the  spot 
once  occupied  by  the  Bastile,  are  sad  mementos  of  that 
bloody  revolution. 

The  French  are  a  curious  and  singular  people,  which 
these  revolutions  have  demonstrated.  They  are  atheistic 
as  well ;  and  during  this  memorable  struggle,  when  reason 
had  been  dethroned,  they  worshiped  an  infamous  woman  in 
Notre  Dame  as  its  goddess.  They  desecrated  the  churches, 
and  changed  the  name  of  one  into  the  Pantheon,  which 
should  contain  a  monument  or  inscription  to  every  name  in 
its  history  worthy  to  be  remembered.  Only  during  the  last 
communistic  struggle  of  1871  the  Government  troops  shot 
three  hundred  insurgents  in  the  beautiful  Church  of  the 
Madeleine.  They  are  refined  and  cultivated,  but  they  are 
an  impatient,  restless  people.  The  Government  does  much 
to  instruct  and  amuse  them.  It  expends  thousands  to  en- 
courage the  best  writers  of  dramatic  talent  for  its  theaters — 
millions  on  its  galleries  and  museums  of  art,  beautiful  gar- 
dens, fountains,  and  embellished  walks,  drives,  and  parks, 
many  of  which  are  opened  free  to  the  public.  While  the 


Sighte  and  Scenes  in  Paris.  61 

people  are  difficult  of  restraint,  they  are  not  unpatriotic. 
They  love  their  country.  Very  few  ever  emigrate  to  for- 
eign lands.  When  the  Government  goes  to  war  the  people 
generally  go  with  it. 

I  witnessed  a  scene  in  the  Bourse  here  in  1872,  when  the 
war  indemnity  of  one  thousand  millions  of  francs  was  being 
raised  for  Prussia.  It  was  an  indescribable  scene.  Thou- 
sands of  enthusiastic  people,  with  little  slates  in  their  hands, 
rushed  madly  through  the  vast  building,  bidding  on  the 
Government  rentes.  Presently  the  auctioneers  stopped ;  but 
the  people  kept  bidding.  Every  farmer  and  tradesman  had 
brought  up  his  little  bag  to  rescue  the  Government.  It  was 
like  a  tub  overflowed  by  still  pouring  on  water.  Millions 
were  bid  they  had  no  use  for ;  and  the  debt  was  paid.  It 
required  whole  trains  of  cars  to  move  that  specie  away. 
They  are  a  very  industrious  and  economical  people.  Nearly 
all  the  farmers  in  France  own  their  lands,  and  this  is  one 
of  the  secrets  of  their  prosperity. 

Americans  are  wild  with  delight  on  reaching  Paris.  There 
is  so  much  to  instruct  and  amuse  them  here.  No  city  will 
rival  its  uniform  architecture,  its  broad,  clean  streets,  its 
pleasure  drives,  parks,  and  places  of  amusement.  When 
the  city  is  lit  up  as  bright  as  day,  the  boulevards  at  night 
are  thronged  with  its  splendid  equipages,  and  its  thousands 
of  pleasure-loving  people  sit  around  little  marble  tables  on 
the  sidewalks  under  beautiful  awnings  in  front  of  the  cafes. 
The  scene  presented  is  one  of  bewilderment.  It  is  simply 
indescribable. 

The  Grand  Opera?  Yes,  we  wanted  to  see  the  interior 
of  this  marvelous  building,  this  incomparable  piece  of  archi- 
tecture. We  had  walked  around  it  many  times,  admiring  its 
grand  porticoes  and  the  stupendous,  massive  pile  of  granite 
and  marble  that  covered  four  acres  of  ground  and  towered 
away  in  royal  magnificence  many  stories  high.  Our  party 


62  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

consisted  of  six,  D.  among  the  number.  "Faust"  was  to 
be  played;  but  we  were  going  to  see  the  statuary  and  fres- 
coes; we  cared  nothing  about  this  looking-glass  perform- 
ance. D.  and  I  went  to  secure  tickets.  They  were  all  sold, 
said  the  agent,  except  one  "loge."  "How  fortunate  that 
Prince  Gortchakoif  will  not  be  present  this  evening!  Your 
party  are  Americans,  I  presume?"  continued  this  bland 
Frenchman.  "Yes;  but  we  are  not  fools.  How  much 
for  that' loge ?'"  "Just  three  hundred  francs,  messieurs. 
Very  cheap;  very  elegant."  "Ten  dollars  a  seat!  Give 
us  seats  in  the  gallery;  we  want  to  see  every  thing!"  shouted 
D.  It  was  so  steep  away  up  there,  we  were  in  constant 
dread  of  pitching  over  on  the  vast  parquet  a  hundred  feet 
below  us.  When  we  rose  for  refreshments,  our  chairs  all 
flew  together.  We  could  not  change  but  those  seats  tried 
to  collapse  on  us.  Three  dollars  a  seat!  Well,  it  was  per- 
fectly gorgeous.  Groups  of  painting  and  sculpture,  with 
allegorical  frescoes  overhead  representing  winged  angels 
flying  about,  and  little  Cupids  and  Venuses  hiding  and  blush- 
ing in  rosy  bowers,  just  captivated  us. 

Next  day  we  strolled  through  the  Jardin  des  Plantes,  and 
saw  its  animals,  its  miles  of  plants  and  beautiful  flowers. 
We  could  have  spent  days  in  the  museums  of  natural  his- 
tory prepared  by  Cuvier  alone.  Here  we  paid  our  respects 
to  Monsieur  Georges  Ville,  the  distinguished  scientist  and 
member  of  Academie  de  Science,  whom  we  had  met  in  1872. 
He  mvited  us  to  visit  with  him  the  "La  Ferme  National," 
or  Government  experimental  farm,  at  Vincennes,  where  he 
had  startled  the  world  by  his  wonderful  experiments.  We 
saw  in  his  laboratory  the  apparatus  he  had  invented  by 
which  he  was  enabled  to  make  these  discoveries.  He  made 
one  or  two  reductions  of  acids  for  us.  I  met  Madame  Ville, 
a  woman  as  remarkable  in  many  respects  as  her  distinguished 
husband.  They  both  asked  me  about  the  death  of  Mr. 


Sights  and  Scenes  in  Paris.  63 

Charles  Wallace  Howard,  of  Kingston,  Georgia,  and  about 
his  accomplished  daughter,  who  had  translated  one  of  his 
works  for  the  farmers  of  Georgia.  I  had  the  honor  of  hear- 
ing Monsieur  Ville  lecture  in  the  Academy  of  Science  when 
I  had  first  met  him,  through  an  introduction  of  Prof.  Musa, 
another  renowned  scholar.  I  saw  Alexandre  Dumas,  the 
novelist,  and  many  other  illustrious  men  in  science  and  let- 
ters assembled  on  this  occasion.  Prof.  Ville  requested  me 
to  send  him  a  specimen  of  phosphatic  rock,  at  Charleston, 
for  examination.  I  was  presented  by  these  gentlemen  with 
copies  of  their  works  in  French,  which  I  have  added  to  my 
library  at  home. 

Faubourg  St.  Antoine  may  be  called  the  antipode  of  Ver- 
sailles, with  its  splendid  statues,  gardens,  and  fountains. 
Here  are  the  squalid  abodes  of  vice,  the  haunts  of  sin,  pov- 
erty, dirt,  and  rags ;  the  birthplace  of  revolution  and  the 
chiffonnier  head-quarters;  the  market  for  old  clothes  and 
the  homes  of  the  Communists  who  stormed  the  Tuilleries  and 
brought  down  the  Column  Vendome  in  the  dark  days  of 
1870  and  1871.  Louis  Napoleon  straightened  out  the  lit- 
tle crooked  streets,  and  laid  them  with  asphaltum  where 
these  people  once  built  barricades  with  the  flag-stones  and 
dug  up  the  cobbles  to  fight  with.  Thirteen  boulevards  ra- 
diate from  the  Arc  de  Triomphe.  You  can  shoot  a  can- 
non-ball down  these  streets  so  straight  that  no  mob  could 
stand  before  them. 

Paris  is  still  a  walled  city.  She  has  had  to  fight  her  bat- 
tles at  her  very  gates.  England  fights  hers  abroad.  The 
walls  of  Paris  are  among  the  finest  fortifications  in  the 
world.  It  was  difficult  for  the  Prussians  to  storm  them ;  it 
was  difficult  for  the  French  troops  to  carry  them  against 
the  Communists,  who  so  long  held  the  city  against  the  na- 
tional army. 

London  is  Protestant ;  Paris  is  Catholic.     On  Sunday  ID 


64  Around  the  World  in  188 Jf. 

London  its  churches  resound  with  praises  to  the  Lord,  busi- 
ness is  suspended,  and  even  many  of  the  trains  on  the  rail- 
roads have  ceased  to  run.  After  services  in  Paris,  it  is  a 
holiday.  I  have  seen  the  farmers  and  their  wives  at  work 
in  the  fields,  the  women  sewing,  and  business  going  on  as 
usual.  In  England  the  fullest  guarantee  is  accorded  to  the 
freedom  of  speech.  The  Cabinet  is  held  accountable  for  its 
management  of  the  Government,  notwithstanding  the  En- 
glish claim  the  "king  can  do  no  wrong."  Here,  if  a  jour- 
nalist criticises  the  acts  of  the  Government,  he  is  arrested 
and  imprisoned.  But  no  papers  in  America  are  more  out- 
spoken and  fearless  in  denunciation  of  public  men  and 
crime  than  the  London  journals.  In  contrasting  London 
and  Paris,  we  see  an  air  of  quiet  dignity  and  sobriety  about 
the  one,  and  costly  ornamentation  and  a  volatile  character 
about  the  other.  It  has  been  said,  "  The  Englishman  is 
like  his  Church — plain  and  well  built ;  the  Frenchman  or- 
naments both  his  person  and  his  Church."  The  French- 
man lives  at  home,  the  Englishman  abroad.  The  English 
.are  the  greatest  colonizers  on  the  globe,  the  French  the 
poorest.  England  builds  ships,  and  sends  her  manufactures 
to  her  colonies  and  every  country  on  the  globe.  Wherever 
her  flag  floats  she  plants  the  standard  of  the  cross.  The 
Bible,  with  her  cheap  coal  and  iron,  has  made  her  the 
mightiest  power  on  earth. 

France  is  a  nation  of  small  farmers,  artisans,  and  manu- 
facturers, with  superior  taste  and  culture  for  diversified  in- 
dustries. The  economical  habits  of  these  classes  have  made 
them  wealthy  and  prosperous.  They  are  a  polite  and  cult- 
ured people,  with  a  love  for  the  beautiful  in  art  and  nature. 
Paris  has  become,  in  consequence,  the  fashionable  capital 
of  the  world.  Americans,  and  even  Europeans,  rush  here 
in  the  wildest  delight  to  spend  the  remainder  of  their  days. 
I  have  contrasted  the  civilization  of  these  two  countries  as 


Excursion  Through  Italy.  65 

most  interesting  to  Americans;  but  the  growing  military 
and  aggressive  powers  of  Europe  are  Germany  and  Russia. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

EXCURSION  THROUGH  ITALY. 

T  EAVING  Paris,  for  Rome  and  Naples,  we  pass  Fon- 
J_j  tainebleau,  Modane,  Mt.  Cenis  Tunnel,  Allessandria, 
Genoa,  and  Pisa.  If  no  other  name  but  that  of  Josephine 
had  been  associated  with  Fontainebleau,  it  would  never 
have  perished  in  history.  Its  famous  old  park  of  venerated 
trees,  with  a  grand  avenue  sweeping  through  them,  its  pret- 
ty hedges  and  gardens,  its  bright  lawns  that  look  as  if  they 
had  been  swept  and  brushed  every  day,  its  stately  lanes  of 
poplar-trees,  are  marvels  of  symmetry  and  beauty.  The 
French  peasant,  in  his  blue  blouse,  with  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren, is  cultivating  his  field.  He  has  his  bread  and  wine, 
with  plenty  of  chestnuts  for  the  children.  He  raises  poul- 
try, eggs,  vegetables,  and  fruits,  to  sell.  The  valleys  are 
sown  in  grain,  and  the  sunny  slopes  of  the  hills  are  planted 
in  vines.  He  raises  double  crops  on  his  lands.  He  plants 
vegetables  and  grain  under  the  poplar-trees.  They  give  no 
shade.  He  trims  them  of  their  boughs  nearly  to  the  top. 
The  faggots  are  used  as  fuel  to  cook  his  slender  meals.  You 
see  all  his  family  hoeing  in  the  field,  and  when  the  grain  is 
ready  for  the  sickle,  you  will  see  his  wTife.  helping  him  to 
cradle  it.  Wood  is  sold  by  the  pound,  and  is  hardly  ever 
used  for  warming  the  house.  The  people  sit  and  shiver  in 
the  cold.  He  knows  little  of  the  comforts  of  home.  He 
has  hardly  ever  a  cow  for  milk,  a  pig,  or  sheep.  I  have 
seen  very  few  of  these  domestic  animals.  The  farm  is  di- 
vided up  into  narrow  strips  from  ten  yards  to  one  hundred 
yards  wide  and  six  hundred  yards  long — from  one  to  ten 
acres.  Every  time  a  father  dies,  the  farm  is  divided  up 
5 


66  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

among  his  heirs.  Sometimes  they  have  been  cut  up  into  so 
many  little  long  strips  they  are  hardly  fifty  yards  wide 
by  six  hundred  long ;  some  are  smaller  than  this.  Look 
out  of  my  window,  and  these  strips  appear  like  a  carpet  of 
beautiful  greens.  There  is  a  belt  of  Irish  potatoes,  oats, 
clover,  alfalfa  (Lucerne),  cabbage,  carrots,  pease,  gooseber- 
ries, currants,  and  a  little  of  every  thing.  When  the  oats 
and* barley  turn  to  a  golden  hue,  the  landscape  becomes 
perfectly  charming.  These  people  live  in  villages  and  towns, 
and  walk  out  barefooted  to  the  farms.  The  women  do  not 
keep  house  like  our  women  in  America ;  they  work  in  the 
field.  I  have  seen  them  cutting  wheat,  pitching  hay  on 
the  wagon,  driving  cows  and  oxen,  plowing,  cradling,  and 
doing  as  much  work  as  any  man.  They  have  tremen- 
dous feet  and  big  waists.  They  are  as  strong  as  mules. 
They  work  in  Belgium  and  Germany  as  well.  I  saw  a 
woman  and  a  dog  pulling  a  harrow  once  on  my  way  from 
Brussels  to  Waterloo.  These  women  are  the  mothers  of  the 
soldiers  in  the  army. 

I  have  said  the  French  farmer  owns  his  land.  There 
must  be  nearly  one  million  of  small  farms  belonging  to  the 
peasants,  containing  one-half  to  five  acres  each.  About  two 
acres  is  the  average.  The  rent  is  one-half  for  the  other,  and 
improved  lands  for  farming  bring  from  two  hundred  and 
fifty  to  four  hundred  dollars  per  acre,  while  those  in  vines 
bring  more.  In  England  about  three  hundred  thousand 
people  own  all  the  land,  and  two  hundred  and  thirty  of  this 
number  own  most  of  it.  In  France  these  little  gardens  or 
farms  are  owned  by  seven  or  eight  million  people.  You  ask 
a  man  if  he  makes  any  thing  clear :  "  O  not  much ;  I  laid  up 
about  five  hundred  francs  last  year."  You  are  astounded. 
You  begin  to  wonder  how  he  did  it.  Well,  he  spent  nothing. 
He  has  eaten  a  little  coarse  bread  and  wine  for  breakfast ; 
soup,  bread,  and  wine,  for  dinner ;  may  be  bread  and  milk 


Excursion  Through  Itqly.  67 

for  supper.  He  never  indulges  in  such  luxuries  as  tea  and 
coffee.  They  are  wofully  ignorant.  They  loan  their  money, 
as  I  have  observed,  to  the  Government,  at  about  six  per 
cent,  per  annum.  It  is  stated  that  the  farmers  have  on  de- 
posit in  the  savings-banks  of  France  nearly  one  hundred 
million  dollars. 

Such  pretty  glimpses  of  the  Rhone,  such  landscapes,  as 
we  glide  along  into  Southern  France!  The  cars  are  much 
like  those  described  in  England.  The  officials  are  dressed 
in  uniform.  They  are  so  polite!  You  must  purchase  your 
ticket  before  you  pass  into  the  waiting-room,  and  you  can- 
not pass  from  it  until  the  train  is  ready  to  start.  Before 
you  start  every  ticket  is  examined.  This  is  for  your  good. 
You  are  always  put  on  the  right  train.  Accidents  are  rare, 
rery  rare,  on  French  railroads.  We  either  pass  under  a 
wagon-road,  through  a  tunnel,  or  over  one  by  a  bridge — 
never  across  them  on  a  level.  Switches  are  changed  away 
ihead,  by  pulling  a  wire  rope  or  wire  along-side  the  track, 
from  station  to  station.  Those  overhead,  on  poles,  are  for 
messages.  About  every  mile  or  so,  it  seemed  to  me,  I 
saw  a  man  with  a  club  or  flag  come  out  and  hold  it  up 
till  the  train  passed,  to  show  all  was  right  ahead.  All 
head  officials  are  held  responsible  for  subordinates. 

If  I  had  a  day,  I  would  stop  at  Lyons,  the  second  largest 
city  in  France.  It  is  a  famous  old  town  for  silks,  velvets, 
and  satins.  It  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
two  rivers,  the  Rhone  and  the  Saone.  It  was  the  Lug- 
dunum  of  the  ancient  Romans  and  the  capital  of  Celtic 
Gaul.  Bulwer  Lytton  has  rendered  its  name  immortal. 

As  we  approach  the  Alpine  range  that  divides  France 
and  Switzerland  from  Italy,  the  configuration  of  the  coun- 
try is  changed  from  a  plain  and  beautifully  sloping  hills  to 
towering  mountains.  Their  summits  are  covered  with  snow, 
but  the  valleys  are  green  below.  The  farmer,  with  his 


68 


Around  the  World  in  1SS4- 


CITY  OF  LYONS,  FROM  THE  PARK  OF  THE  TETE 


Excursion  Through  Italy.  69 

yoke  of  large  white  oxen  is  turning  over  the  new  sod ;  his 
daughter  is  leading  a  single  goat  around  a  little  lake ;  while 
the  cuckoo  utters  its  plaintive  wail  as  the  sweet  harbinger 
of  approaching  spring.  What  a  theme  for  the  poet  and  a 
picture  for  the  artist  nature  has  lavished  on  beautiful  Cham- 
bry! 

When  we  reached  Modane,  on  the  French  side,  there  was 
bustle  and  confusion — trains  arriving  and  departing  through 
the  Mt.  Cenis  Tunnel ;  examination  of  baggage,  passports, 
etc.,  on  the  frontier  between  France  and  Italy.  I  looked 
up  and  saw  a  train  winding  around  down  from  the  great 
tunnel,  four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  Modane  is  the 
last  station.  As  we  begin  to  climb  higher  and  higher  above 
the  valley,  the  atmosphere  becomes  crisp  and  cold.  The 
scene  below  is  indescribably  grand.  We  enter  an  immense 
opening  in  a  rugged  peak  before  us,  walled  with  stone.  Our 
train  is  lighted  from  above.  We  move  slowly,  as  if  feeling 
our  way  through  the  impenetrable  darkness.  When  we 
have  gone  thirteen  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty-six 
yards,  the  sky  with  its  glorious  sunlight  bursts  upon  us. 
Then  we  make  many  short  tunnels  in  succession,  with  open 
spaces  intervening,  until  we  have  made  the  last.  It  must 
require  two  hours  or  more.  We  descend  rapidly  now,  on 
the  Italian  side,  to  the  valley  below,  with  fearful  chasms 
yawning  and  rugged  mountains  rising  thousands  of  feet 
above  us,  covered  with  snow. 

This  tunnel,  commenced  in  1857,  conjointly  by  the  Gov- 
ernments of  France  and  Italy,  from  both  sides  of  the  Alps, 
required  nine  years  for  its  completion.  It  was  bored  by 
pneumatic  pressure,  and  cost  thirteen  million  dollars. 
When  the  engineers  met  in  the  center  of  this  mountain  of 
granite,*  their  calculations  showed  the  nicest  precision. 
There  is  another  tunnel  finished  since,  called  the  St.  Goth- 
ard ;  and  still  north  of  this  is  the  famous  artillery  road, 


70  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

called  the  Tete  Noir  and  Simplon  Passes,  made  by  Napoleon 
the  Great.  Over  this  he  marched  his  army  into  Italy. 
Hannibal  had  crossed  the  Alps,  farther  south,  before  Christ 
was  born ;  but  no  such  engineering  as  the  Simplon  had  ever 
been  seen  before.  In  1872  I  traveled  by  this  celebrated 
route  from  Chamounix,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Blanc,  by  Mar- 
tigny,  that  led  me  over  the  loftiest  mountains  down  upon 
the  classic  lakes  of  Maggiore,  Lugano,  and  Como,  in  North- 
west Italy.  Sometimes  I  was  eight  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea.  I  saw  an  Englishman  who  had  been  overwhelmed 
in  a  snow-storm,  on  the  St.  Gothard,  just  south  of  me,  in 
the  month  of  August.  Soon  after  leaving  Chamounix,  I 
noticed  Napoleon's  name,  with  date,  cut  in  front  of  a  tun- 
nel. I  saw  the  drill-holes  on  the  perpendicular  walls  of 
granite,  and  the  stones  with  which  he  had  filled  in  gorges 
and  built  bridges  over  chasms,  to  move  his  army  and  ar- 
tillery. The  road  was  so  narrow  we  had  to  work  our  mule 
and  horse  tandem,  one  in  front  of  the  other.  It  will  scarcely 
average  six  feet.  It  is  cut  in  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
winding  around  from  the  deepest  gorge  to  the  loftiest  sum- 
mits; then  it  descends  zigzag,  making  the  next  ascent  in 
the  same  way.  But  we  seemed  to  rise  higher  and  higher,  un- 
til we  had  ascended  far  above  the  clouds.  One  of  the  most 
terrific  scenes  I  ever  beheld  was  a  storm  in  the  Alps,  with 
its  electrical  phenomena  of  thunders  echoing  from  cavern- 
ous depths,  and  lightning  leaping  from  crag  to  peak,  over 
precipices  into  dark  abysses  below,  rolling  away  in  awful 
grandeur  down  Alpine  gorges.  Above  me  were  cloudless 
skies.  I  saw  the  sun  rise  and  set  in  the  Alps.  It  bathed  the 
snow-capped  summits  of  the  Jungfrau,  Matterhorn,  and 
Monte  Rosa  in  a  flood  of  gorgeous  light.  There  were  purple, 
vermilion,  and  orange,  shading  into  other  tints  of  the  rain- 
bow, that  shone  resplendent  in  this  glorious  picture,  though 
it  faded  when  the  blue  vaulted  dome  of  heaven  was  lit  up 


Excursion  Through  Italy.  71 

with  the  myriads  of  twinkling  lights.  It  lives  among  the 
fadeless  memories  of  that  tour  across  the  Alps. 

As  we  approach  Turin,  I  look  northward  across  the 
beautiful  vale  of  Piedmont,  and  I  saw  the  snow-capped 
summit  of  Mt.  Blanc  once  more.  We  have  left  the  Alps 
far  behind  us  as  we  steam  down  this  beautiful  plain  of 
the  vine  and  mulberry  toward  Alessandria.  Here  Indian 
corn,  barley,  oats,  and  wheat  are  cultivated  between  long 
avenues  of  trees,  whose  clustering  vines  are  festooned  one 
from  the  other. 

We  pass  Turin.  It  was  the  base  of  Caesar's  operations 
when  he  conquered  Gaul,  beyond  the  Alps.  It  is  now  one 
of  the  finest  modern  cities  of  Italy,  with  a  population  of 
more  than  two  hundred  thousand.  It  is  watered  by  the 
river  Po.  Here  that  grand  old  patriot  Garibaldi  has  lived. 

If  it  will  not  fatigue  you,  I  will  take  you  north  of  Ales- 
sandria, by  the  battle-field  of  Marengo,  past  rugged  peaks,  to 
see  the  wonders  of  Milan,  the  Lake  of  Corno,  then  back  to 
Milan  and  Alessandria.  We  shall  only  have  time  to  see 
at  Milan  the  marble  cathedral — the  light,  airy,  graceful 
wonder  of  the  world.  We  will  behold  its  wilderness  of 
spires,  surmounted  by  statues,  looming  up  in  the  skies. 
There  are  over  seven  thousand  marble  statues,  with  more 
statues  and  spires  yet  to  be  built.  The  walls,  the  floors,  and 
the  entire  building,  are  all  marble.  It  is  said  it  has  cost 
over  one  hundred  million  dollars,  and  will  require  one  hun- 
dred years  yet  and  millions  more  to  finish  it.  There  are 
four  staircases  that  go  up  to  the  great  steeple,  four  hundred 
feet  high.  I  did  not  go  up.  I  wanted  to  see  the  relics  and 
treasures  valued  at  ten  million  dollars.  I  sometimes  wish  I 
could  believe  every  thing  I  saw ;  but  it  does  not  matter. 
The  collection  here  is  wonderful — nearly  every  thing,  from 
the  crown  of  thorns,  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  and  child,  to 
a»  nail  that  came  out  of  the  cross.  I  asked  my  guide  to 


72  Around  the  World  in  188 '4. 

show  me  that  nail.  He  pointed  his  finger  above,  toward 
the  vaulted  roof,  and  finally  said  they  did  not  show  it  only 
on  certain  occasions.  Several  bones  of  the  disciples  and  a 
piece  of  the  handkerchief  the  Saviour  wiped  his  face  on, 
where  he  left  its  impression,  are  among  the  relics  exhibited. 

The  largest  theater  in  the  world,  "  La  Scala,"  is  here. 
We  did  not  visit  it. 

Here,  in  an  old  dilapidated  building,  may  be  seen  the 
original  of  the  greatest  painting  in  the  world,  "  The  Last 
Supper,"  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci.  You  will  see  an  artist  in 
front  copying  it.  In  fact,  artists  are  copying  all  these  old 
pictures  of  Rubens,  Titian,  Raphael,  Michael  Angelo,  and 
many  others.  The  originals  look  very  old,  and  many  of 
their  once  brilliant  tints  are  faded  now. 

Thirty  miles  north-west  of  Milan  I  stopped  at  the  old 
town  of  Como,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  gliding  over 
the  matchless  lake.  We  saw  Bellagio  at  the  water's  edge, 
and  houses  hanging  on  a  cliff  hundreds  of  feet  overhead. 
The  water  is  as  clear  as  crystal.  The  mountains  rise  from 
one  to  two  thousand  feet  all  around.  At  night  we  sail  over 
its  placid  bosom  amidst  the  reflections  of  the  stars;  we  look 
across  Como  on  the  Alps  that  rise  in  Switzerland,  look  at 
the  pretty  houses  and  gardens  clustered  around  its  shores, 
and  I  see  them  up  on  the  mountain-slopes  with  their  twink- 
ling lights  that  appear  to  be  shining  out  of  the  heavens. 
Como  is  scarcely  a  mile  wide,  but  over  one  thousand  feet 
deep,  I  heard.  It  winds  around  among  these  lofty  mount- 
ains about  fifteen  miles.  Its  myrtles  and  groves,  its  snow- 
clad  mountains,  which  are  in  the  distance,  with  the  Lady 
of  Lyons,  have  been  sung  unto  exhaustion. 

We  will  return  to  Alessandria  and  go  down  to  Genoa. 
We  want  to  see  the  beautiful  Mediterranean,  and  flash  down 
its  shores  by  Pisa  to  Rome  and  Naples.  Italy  approaches 
Georgia  in  the  production  of  delicious  peaches  and  melons. 


Excursion  Through  Italy.  73 

Her  vineyards  cannot  be  excelled  in  all  Europe.  Every- 
where you  see  the  mulberry  cultivated,  both  for  the  vine 
and  the  silk- worm.  The  tree  is  continually  cut  back,  or 
primed,  to  produce  tender  sprigs  and  leaves  for  the  worms. 
As  soon  as  the  leaves  appear  in  the  spring  the  eggs  are 
hatched  out  by  artificial  means,  and  the  long  white  worm 
is  soon  at  work  spinning  its  cocoon.  The  peasants  sell  their 
crops  of  cocoons  to  the  mills  or  merchants  in  Turin,  Milan, 
and  Genoa. 

When  we  reached  Genoa  we  thought  of  the  statue  of 
Columbus,  the  discoverer  of  America.  It  stands  immedi- 
ately in  front  of  the  station.  As  a  work  of  art  it  is  wor- 
thy the  highest -consideration.  Genoa  looks  out  from  her 
proud  eminence  in  regal  splendor.  The  city  is  protected 
by  a  moat  and  batteries  on  her  lofty  heights  that  well-nigh 
render  her  impregnable.  The  great  number  and  beauty  of 
her  palaces  entitle  her  to  the  proud  distinction  of  la  su- 
perba.  The  works  of  Titian,  Guido,  Paul  Veronese,  Van- 
dyke, and  Carlo  Dolci,  adorn  their  walls.  Here  the  finest 
silks  and  velvets  are  manufactured  and  sold  at  half  the 
price  they  are  in  Paris  or  London.  The  ladies  do  not  visit 
in  Genoa,  but  appear  on  the  Corso  in  the  evening  in  their 
long,  flowing  white  veils.  They  gather  these  tastefully 
about  their  heads  with  gold  pins,  and  let  them  fall  in  grace- 
ful profusion  over  their  classic  arms  and  shoulders.  They 
are  as  dressy  and  graceful  as  they  can  be.  They  robe  them- 
selves in  a  "cloud  of  white"  of  beautiful  illusions,  and, 
with  their  long,  flowing  veils,  these  Genoese  women  do  look 
so  charming.  Many  of  them  are  very  fair,  with  blue  eyes ; 
but  the  black,  brown,  dreamy  ones  are  most  dominant.  The 
gentlemen  were  all  dressed  in  the  latest  Parisian  styles. 
The  park  was  lit  up  with  gas-jets,  the  fountains  and  band 
began  to  play,  and  these  snowy-robed  ladies  glided  on  the 
arms  of  the  gentlemen  around  and  around  under  the  trees 


74  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

"like  so  many  snow-flakes."  It  was  a  most  fascinating 
scene — this  meeting  of  the  old  and  young,  the  belles  and 
the  beaux,  in  this  fairy-land  of  trees,  fountains,  music,  and 
beautiful  gardens.  I  should  like  to  remain  a  week  in  Ge- 
noa amid  this  freshet  of  loveliness  and  beauty.  It  is  so 
exhilarating,  so  soothing,  to  the  wearied  traveler.  But  I 
should  always  be  in  trouble.  It  would  be  difficult  to  make 
up  one's  mind  here.  They  are  so  pretty,  so  much  like  our 
Southern  girls — the  girls  of  America  By  the  time  a  man 
could  make  up  his  mind  he  would  fall  in  love  with  some- 
body else. 

Nothing  can  be  more  picturesque  than  this  sea-side  route 
from  Genoa  to  Rome,  by  way  of  Pisa.  It  is  a  picture  of 
rare  beauty.  We  leave  under  a  great  tunnel,  opening  out 
on  a  grand  view  of  the  blue  Mediterranean,  with  lofty  em- 
battled heights  rising  above  us.  Every  thing  is  so  ethereal, 
so  blue,  so  tranquil,  with  majestic  mountains  rising  in  the 
background  all  covered  with  snow.  As  we  glide  around 
lofty  mountains,  whose  slopes  are  studded  with  olive-trees, 
we  pass  village  after  village,  and  villa  after  villa,  embow- 
ered in  orange-groves,  lemons,  limes,  figs,  and  pomegranates, 
whose  fragrant  bloom  has  filled  the  air.  What  glorious 
panoramas!  What  grandeur,  what  picturesqueness  over- 
whelm us!  What  charming  views  of  the  sea  from  these 
palatial  homes! 

Our  train  for  Pisa  and  Leghorn  is  crowded.  At  every 
station  the  third-class  passengers  drink  wine  and  eat  bread. 
Wine  at  one  lire  (twenty  cents)  a  gallon.  A  regular  pic- 
nic. Everybody  seems  to  be  enjoying  the  occasion.  Such 
talking,  such  familiarity,  such  jolly  laughter  and  bursts  of 
applause !  Surely  this  peasant  population  of  Italy  must  be 
a  happy  one.  I  saw  a  woman  enter  an  open  car  with  her 
young  "  kid "  strapped  on  a  pillow.  She  laid  it — that  is, 
the  pillow — across  her  lap.  The  baby  never  cried.  It  was 


Excursion  Through  Italy.  75 

a  marvel  of  patience.  I  cannot  imagine  a  Georgia  brat  so 
pacific  under  such  circumstances.  The  whole  neighbor- 
hood would  have  been  alarmed.  These  people  all  appear  to 
be  "kin."  Here  are  one  hundred  or  more,  all  talking  fa- 
miliarly, eating  bread  and  drinking  wine.  Some  of  them, 
I  know,  have  come  with  me  for  hundreds  of  miles.  They 
have  never  met  each  other  before,  yet  you  would  suppose 
they  were  all  old  friends  and  neighbors.  They  make  wry 
faces,  gestures,  and  grimaces  really  grotesque,  for  each  oth- 
er's amusement.  They  are  a  jolly,  good-natured  "set." 
They  despise  conventional  etiquette.  They  join  socially, 
men  and  women  alike,  in  the  most  animated  discussions  of 
various  subjects.  They  are  decidedly  gossipy,  to  put  it  in 
its  mildest  form. 

It  was  late  at  night  before  I  arrived  at  Pisa — famous  old 
city,  famous  for  its  Leaning  Tower  (the  Campanile),  the 
Duomo,  and  Campo  Santo.  I  could  not  rest  at  my  hotel 
for  the  intermittent  squalls  of  a  young  bantling  next  door. 
I  wonder  if  they  had  unstrapped  it.  Well,  it  needed  strap- 
ping again.  But  there  was  one  consolation — it  was  all  the 
English  I  heard  in  Pisa.  It  was  so  natural,  so  home-like. 
Pisa  is  a  deceased  old  town  now.  Once  it  was  so  powerful 
it  defied  even  Genoa  and  Venice  for  supremacy  and  re- 
nown. It  boasts  of  great  antiquity  and  several  wonderful 
sights.  I  ascended  the  Campanile,  or  Leaning  Tower, 
justly  accounted  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  The 
most  remarkable  feature  about  it  is  its  declination  from  the 
perpendicular.  It  is  one  hundred  and  ninety  feet  high, 
consisting  of  eight  stories,  with  projecting  galleries  of  seven 
feet.  The  top  story  overhangs  the  base  on  one  side  fifteen 
feet,  but  the  center  of  gravity  is  ten  feet  writhin  the  base. 
It  is  a  bell-tower,  with  a  chime  of  ancient  .bells  hanging  in 
it.  It  is  seven  hundred  years  old,  but  we  cannot  tell  whether 
it  was  built  purposely  this  way  or  its  sides  have  settled. 


76 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


THE  LEANING  TOWER  AT  PISA. 


Excursion  Through  Italy.  77 

There  is  no  traditional  or  historical  account  concerning  it. 
My  own  impression  is  that  it  was  originally  built  in  this 
leaning  position.  It  is  constructed  on  a  very  broad,  solid 
granite  base.  It  is  a  graceful  and  very  handsome  structure. 
Each  of  its  eight  stories  is  surrounded  by  fluted  columns, 
with  Corinthian  capitals,  some  marble  and  others  of  gran- 
ite. I  ascended  to  the  top  by  a  winding  staircase  of  stone 
steps,  very  much  worn  in  places,  from  the  inside.  Occa- 
sionally I  would  go  outside  around  the  circular  galleries. 
When  I  walked  around  on  the  lower  side  the  tower  ap- 
peared to  be  falling,  and  I  would  hurry  to  the  upper  side 
under  the  silly  impression  that  it  was  falling  from  my  weight 
upon  it.*  You  feel  like  bearing  down  on  the  upper  side. 
I  enjoyed  all  my  views  from  this  direction.  I  did  not  take 
any  from  the  lower  side.  I  apprehend  nobody  has  ever  at- 
tempted such  a  thing.  The  city  below  and  the  Campagna, 
that  stretched  away  for  miles  to  the  foot  of  lofty  mount- 
ains, presented  a  panorama  of  rare  beauty.  The  whole  of 
this  vast  plain  was  cultivated  like  a  garden. 

The  Campo  Santo  is  a  burial-ground,  the  earth  of  which 
was  brought  from  Jerusalem.  There  are  a  few  magnificent 
monuments,  statues,  and  paintings  here  that  rank  this  the 
most  interesting  of  the  Pisan  curiosities.  The  body  of  the 
Countess  Beatrice  rests  in  a  magnificent  sarcophagus.  It  ap- 
pears that  the  devotional  spirit  of  the  olden  times  attached 
more  importance  to  the  outward  forms  of  worship  than  it  did  to 
the  sanctification  of  the  heart  and  guarding  it  against  sin- 
ful deeds.  Hence  this  holy  dirt  possessed  great  power  and 
efficacy  in  saving  the  dead. 

One  of  the  finest  cathedrals  in  all  Europe  is  the  old  Du- 
omo,  that  stands  close  by  the  Leaning  Tower.  Its  grandeur 
has  outlived  the  prosperity  and  fall  of  Pisa.  It  is  eight 

*  A  cord  hung  from  the  center  on  top  would  touch  the  wall  be- 
fore it  reached  the  bottom. 


78  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

hundred  years  old.  In  the  spacious  rotunda  of  the  bap- 
tistery, older  still  than  the  Duomo,  I  saw  the  lamp  whose 
suggestive  swing  was  the  occasion  of  immortalizing  Galileo, 
the  discovery  or  invention  of  the  pendulum.  He  was  only 
eighteen  years  of  age  at  the  time.  He  also  discovered  the 
telescope.  I  could  not  but  feel  a  veneration  for  this  old  lamp. 
What  an  age  of  investigation  and  discovery  it  had  set  in 
motion!  "Patriarch  of  all  pendulums."  The  echo  by 
which  the  guide  awakens  the  sweetest  sounds  that  ever  en- 
chanted the  human  ear  may  be  heard  in  another  part  of 
the  building. 

Pisa  was  one  of  the  twelve  Etruscan  cities,  and  looks 
back  into  the  shadowy  past  nearly  three  thousand  years. 
Three  hundred  years  ago  she  was  a  warlike  republic,  and 
boasted  of  her  splendid  army  arid  navy.  She  had  whipped 
out  the  Turks  and  Genoese  in  many  a  hard-fought  battle. 
She  had  once  a  population  of  nearly  half  a  million,  but  her 
scepter  has  fallen  by  her  side,  her  armies  melted  away,  her 
walls  and  citadels  crumbled,  and  only  the  old  dust-covered 
flags  and  her  few  splendid  monuments  remain  to  recall 
her  ancient  glory. 

We  wanted  to  see  Leghorn  on  the  sea-shore,  the  sea-port 
of  Pisa,  noted  for  its  hats,  its  hens,  starch,  soap,  and  cream 
of  tartar.  It  has  a  fine  harbor,  and  was  once  the  pride  of 
the  Medici  family.  It  is  only  twelve  miles  from  Pisa.  The 
only  attraction  to  me  was  its  hens.  They  never  set. 

Lay  on,  Macduff; 

Of  eggs  I  shall  never  get  enough. 

We  have  seen  no  hogs,  but  the  hills  are  covered  with 
sheep.  Near  Pisa,  at  Cascine,  there  were  fifteen  hundred 
milk-cows  and  two  hundred  camels. 


Art  Treasures  of  Rome.  79 

CHAPTER  VII. 

ART  TREASURES  OF  ROME. 

AT  last  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Tiber,  with  that  his- 
toric  stream  still  flowing  on,  gleamed  in  the  distance. 
We   crossed  its  yellow  flood;  then   Rome,  eternal  Rome! 
Once  mistress  of  the  world,  I  am  here. 

Ah  I  little  thought  I  when  in  school  I  sat, 

A  school-boy  on  his  bench  at  early  dawn, 

Glowing  with  Roman  story, 

I  should  live  to  tread  the  Appian  Way 

Of  monuments,  most  glorious  palaces; 

Toward  Tiber  and  the  City  Gate 

Pour  my  unpretending  verse. 

Can  it  be  that  Horace,  Virgil,  Cicero,  Tacitus,  and  Csesar 
— authors  of  my  school-boy  sorrows — once  lived  here?  Let 
us  stop  on  the  Corso  and  wander  over  those  silent  and  de- 
serted hills.  They  rise  all  around  me  above  the  Campus 
Martius  in  silent  repose.  Covered  with  vines,  fragments  of 
broken  columns,  crumbling  walls,  palaces,  and  statues  lying 
in  prostrate  grandeur.  Imperial  Rome,  where  is  thy  pow- 
er gone? 

I  stand  on  the  Capitoline  Hill,  and  look  down  the  valley 
on  the  ruins  of  the  Forum,  around  which  are  grouped  the 
most  glorious  remains  of  thy  ancient  splendor.  All  fallen 
and  gone  except  thee,  Phocas;  thy  solitary  column  rising 
in  melancholy  grandeur.  The  Temple  of  Concord,  an  arch, 
a  colonnade,  speak  in  silence  of  departed  glory.  To  my 
right  is  a  great  heap  of  ruins  once  the  palace  of  the  Csesare. 
In  front  are  the  remains  of  the  most  stupendous  structure 
of  ancient  times.  It  is  the  Colosseum,  an  amphitheater  built 
by  Titus  in  the  year  81  after  our  Saviour  was  born.  It 
seated  eighty-seven  thousand  people  at  one  time.  I  ap- 
proached this  massive  ruin,  and  stood  in  the  arena  to  con- 


80  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

template  its  awful  form.  The  terraced  seats  of  stone  rise 
one  above  the  other  to  a  fearful  height  all  around  the  arena. 
The  outside  wall  is  still  standing,  except  a  portion  broken 
off  centuries  ago.  It  rises  one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  feet 
in  height.  The  arena  is  nearly  one  hundred  yards  long 
and  sixty  yards  broad.  It  is  almost  one-third  of  a  mile  in 
circumference.  It  is  built  on  arches  of  stone,  brick,  and 
cement.  Many  churches  and  palaces  have  been  constructed 
out  of  it.  It  was  made  a  fortress  in  feudal  times.  Sixty 
thousand  Jews,  captured  by  Titus  in  Jerusalem,  were  em- 
ployed ten  years  in  building  it.  When  it  was  inaugurated 
it  is  said  five  thousand  wild  animals  and  ten  thousand  cap- 
tives were  slain.  Gladiators  wrestled,  and  a  naval  combat 
was  fought  in  the  arena,  which  had  been  flooded  with  water 
for  the  occasion,  until  the  scene  became  so  grand  Titus 
wept  tears.  The  Colosseum  is  round,  and  open  at  the  top. 
It  is  the  grandest  of  all  the  Roman  antiquities.  To  the 
right  of  the  Arch  of  Titus  is  the  excavated  temple  of  Venus 
and  Rome,  whose  columns  strewn  around  told  of  its  mag- 
nificence and  grandeur.  At  the  left  of  the  Arch  of  Titus 
begins  the  Via  Sacra,  down  which  I  drove  three  miles  to- 
ward the  Three  Taverns,  the  road  on  which  Paul  was 
brought  a  prisoner  into  Rome. 

What  interested  me  very  much  in  my  rambles  were  the 
old  aqueducts,  baths,  water-fountains,  water-troughs  of  solid 
stone,  and  other  curious  relics  of  the  past  thousands  of  years. 
Sometimes  I  could  see  the  water  gushing  out  of  an  an- 
cient spout  that  had  been  placed  in  a  new  building.  I  no- 
ticed that  the  wall  of  the  Capitol  on  the  side  overhanging 
the  Forum  was  a  part  of  the  ancient  Capitolium,  the  cita- 
del of  Rome.  New  forms  and  changes  have  often  been 
made,  but  this  old  wall  remains.  The  original  seven  hills 
of  old  Rome  are  nearly  deserted.  I  found  nothing  but 
splendid  ruins,  columns,  and  fragments  of  walls  standing. 


Art  Treasures  of  Rome. 


81 


82  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

The  French  have  conducted  extensive  excavations  here. 
The  house  of  Marcellus,  recently  discovered,  and  the  house 
of  Augustus,  on  the  Palatine,  are  among  the  grandest  and 
most  interesting;  but  the  temples,  baths,  houses,  arches, 
columns,  and  statues  that  have  been  brought  to  light 
by  these  excavations  are  innumerable.  Between  the  an- 
cient Forum  Romanum  and  the  Capitol,  already  mentioned, 
is  the  most  marvelous  collection  of  antique  remains  to  be 
found  in  the  world.  The  Forurii  being  the  nucleus,  lying 
in  a  little  valley  between  the  Capitoline  and  Palatine  hills, 
Rome  seems  to  have  grouped  its  glorious  works  around  it. 

I  wandered  on  foot  from  this  cradle  of  her  power  to  the 
Pantheon,  the  best  preserved  of  all  the  Roman  antiquities. 
In  simplicity  and  design  it  is  a  model  of  architectural  beau- 
ty. It  was  built  by  Agrippa  in  the  year  27,  while  yet  our 
Saviour  and  his  apostles  were  alive  on  earth.  In  those 
days  the  Pantheon  was  a  pagan  temple  devoted,  tis  its  name 
indicates,  to  the  worship  of  all  the  gods.  By  some  archae- 
ologists it  is  supposed  to  have  been  at  some  time  a  public 
bath.  I  think  this  quite  doubtful.  All  the  opening  I  could 
discover  was  a  circular  aperture  in  the  dome,  which  prob- 
ably afforded  an  escape  to  the  burned  incense  below.  Its 
magnificent  door  and  portico  are  very  impressive.  They 
are  ornamented  with  sixteen  beautiful  Corinthian  columns 
and  capitals  in  front.  I  found  Raphael's  tomb  on  the  left 
of  the  entrance.  In  1833  it  was  opened  and  a  plaster  cast 
taken  of  his  skull  and  hand. 

Let  us  descend  now  from  these  seven  hills  and  ruins  of 
ancient  Rome  to  the  Campus  Martins  of  Pompey,  Augus- 
tus, and  Csesar.  This  plain  lies  at  the  foot  of  these  hills, 
upon  which  the  splendid  new  city  of  Rome  has  been  built. 
Here  the  Roman  generals  once  drilled  their  legions  when 
Rome  was  the  mistress  of  the  world.  Once  its  population 
was  two  millions ;  now  it  is  two  hundred  and  forty  thousand. 


Art  Treasures  of  Rome.  83 

The  Corso  is  the  Broadway — the  great  thoroughfare  of  busi- 
ness und  pleasure.  It  has  many  pretty  squares,  and  grand 
old  columns,  arches,  and  monuments  to  adorn  them. 

From  the  Corso  \ve  cross  over  the  yellow  Tiber  to  the 
Vatican  and  St.  Peter's.  We  pass  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo, 
tomb  of  Hadrian,  and  that  of  Augustus.  In  the  last  build- 
ing— now  a  theater — were  interred  the  most  illustrious  of 
Roman  celebrities.  Here  Augustus,  Germanicus,  Agrip- 
pina,  Tiberius,  Claudius,  Nerva,  and  Agrippa  were  buried; 
also  Octavia,  sister  of  Augustus,  and  Livia,  his  wife.  The 
Scipios  are  buried  in  the  Catacombs,  on  the  Via  Appia,  in 
niches  cut  in  the  solid  rock.  Approaching  St.  Peter's  and 
the  Vatican — so  near  together  they  may  be  considered  one 
vast  building,  with  colonnades  stretching  out  like  great  gi- 
ant arms  to  welcome  you — we  are  impressed  with  their  co- 
lossal grandeur  and  magnificence.  Both  these  buildings- 
are  supposed  to  cover  sixteen  acres  of  ground.  It  seemed 
half  a  mile  from  the  front  to  the  rear,  in  making  half 
their  circumference.  In  front  is  a  large  plaza  adorned  by 
two  beautiful  fountains.  Here,  before  the  separation  of  the 
State  from  the  Church,  the  Pope  appeared  on  the  front 
steps  of  St.  Peter's  during  the  assembling  of  the  Ecumenic- 
al Council,  when  the  vast  plaza,  packed  with  pilgrims  from 
every  land,  presented  one  of  the  most  imposing  spectacles 
in  the  world.  Every  pilgrim  bowed  before  his  august  pres- 
ence. You  can  see  the  offerings  brought  in  the  court  of 
the  Vatican.  Every  thing  is  so  massive,  so  bulky,  so  vast 
about  this  church  of  St.  Peter's  we  have  nothing  to  judge 
it  by.  The  length  of  all  the  great  cathedrals  is  indicated 
on  its  marble  floors.  St.  Peter's  is  twenty  to  thirty  feet 
longer  than  St.  Paul's.  It  must  be  nearly  twice  as  large, 
and  is  four  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  high.  It  is  filled 
with  statuary,  monuments  to  the  popes,  and  rare  paintings. 
There  is  a  wilderness  of  columns,  marble  and  porphyry, 


84  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

and  twelve  small  pillars  they  say  came  from  Solomon's  Tem- 
ple. What  is  more  extraordinary,  they  have  some  nails,  a 
piece  of  the  cross,  and  a  few  thorns.  I  saw  a  statue  of  some 
patron  saint  carved  by  Michael  Angelo  whose  big  toe  was 
nearly  kissed  away.  I  saw  St.  Peter's  chair,  which  cost  one 
hundred  thousand  dollars  to  gild  it.  They  say  it  requires 
fifty  thousand  dollars  a  year  to  keep  up  the  repairs  on  this 
building.  From  its  lofty  dome  we  can  see  the  seven  hills 
of  old  Home  from  St.  Angelo's  Castle  to  the  Colosseum. 
We  can  see  the  Tiber  winding  itself  away  toward  the  sea. 
When  I  had  walked  several  miles  in  its  rotunda,  down  its 
solemn  aisles,  and  through  vast  distances  filled  with  col- 
umns and  monuments,  I  grew  so  small  I  lost  my  identity. 
I  looked  up  at  the  great  square  pillars  that  supported  its 
ponderous  roof — as  tall  as  several  trees  piled  on  top  of  each 
other— and  then  I  looked  at  the  other  end  of  the  cathedral, 
and  tall  men  had  diminished  into  pigmies.  I  was  conscious 
of  nothing  except  the  beggars  who  followed  behind  wanting 
to  show  me  the  remainder.  It  was  too  vast  for  me,  so  I 
tried  the  Vatican. 

The  Vatican  is  the  Pope's  winter  residence,  and  adjoins 
St.  Peter's.  It  is  a  three-story  building,  with  a  pretty  gar- 
den of  orange-trees,  evergreens,  and  flowers  in  a  court.  It 
is  four  hundred  yards  long  and  three  hundred  yards  broad. 
I  am  a  little  precise  in  stating  the  dimensions,  because  I  de- 
sire to  do  it  thoroughly.  I  walked  up  the  Scala  Regia,  a 
grand  flight  of  marble  steps;  saw  walls  of  the  building  cov- 
ered with  frescoes  of  Raphael  and  Michael  Angelo — a  per- 
fect panorama  of  Italy  with  its  fields  of  grain,  meadows, 
vines,  trees,  birds,  and  flowers.  It  was  gorgeous.  When  I 
had  reached  the  top  of  the  first  or  second  flight,  I  knocked 
at  a  door.  It  was  opened.  Here  was  the  Sistiiie  Chapel, 
in  which  the  world-renowned  fresco  of  "  The  Last  Judgment " 
was  to  be  seen.  It  covers  one  end  of  the  chapel,  being 


Art  Treasures  of  Rome.  85 

thirty  feet  broad  and  sixty  feet  high.  It  is  by  Michael  An- 
gelo.  Everybody  knows  that.  It  required  seven  years  of 
the  artist's  life  to  make  this  picture.  It  is  fading  rapidly 
now;  but  its  conceptions  of  the  great  lawgiver  and  the 
prophets  are  sublime.  The  subjects  are  taken  from  the  Old 
Testament.  The  faces  of  Jeremiah,  Ezekiel,  and  Isaiah  are 
full  of  expression.  The  heads  of  the  prophets  may  be  seen 
all  around  the  top  of  the  walls ;  but  you  will  be  most  attract- 
ed by  the  great  fresco  at  the  end  of  the  hall.  The  Judge  of 
all  stands  in  the  center  of  the  great  painting  with  uplifted 
hands,  giving  expression  to  the  dreaded  realities  of  the  last 
day.  On  his  right  are  assembling  the  tried  and  faithful, 
whose  faces  are  radiant  with  joy.  Below,  and  to  the  left 
are  multitudes  of  people  looking  up  with  eager  expectancy 
and  hope.  Thousands  are  departing  with  the  most  horrid 
dread  of  torture  depicted  in  their  faces.  They  are  all  look- 
ing back;  but,  "Depart  ye;  I  know  ye  not."  You  can 
almost  hear  this  judgment  pronounced.  Below  I  thought 
I  saw  a  glowing  hades,  with  millions  descending  into  eter- 
nal torment.  Satan  appeared  to  be  doing  a  wholesale  busi- 
ness. Michael  Angelo,  like  all  great  men,  had  his  critics, 
one  of  whom  he  has  particularly  remembered  in  this  great 
painting.  He  wears  a  pair  of  ass's  ears  and  is  among  the 
lost  and  damned. 

I  wanted  to  see  something  refreshing  now — something 
that  would  revive  me.  I  passed  to  the  Court  of  San  Dam- 
aso,  and  ascending  another  stair-way,  I  began  to  explore 
four  of  the  most  celebrated  rooms  of  paintings  in  the  world. 
Nearly  or  quite  all  these  were  painted  or  finished  by  Raph- 
ael's pupils.  The  last  and  greatest  work  of  the  immortal 
master  interested  me  most.  I  stood  among  a  multitude  of 
strange  people,  and  gazed  with  awe  and  deep  emotion  on 
the  crowning  triumph  of  his  genius,  "The  Transfiguration." 
How  sublime !  how  inexpressibly  beautiful !  The  more  we 


8(?  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

contemplated  its  marvelous  expressions,  the  more  over- 
whelmed we  were  by  its  sublime  conceptions.  I  endeav- 
ored to  conceal  my  emotions.  I  looked  around,  and  found 
nearly  all  these  people  bathed  in  tears.  The  picture  im- 
presses us  with  the  miseries  of  human  life,  its  sorrows  and 
woes,  and  that  there  is  but  one  hope  of  relief  and  comfort 
for  the  afflicted — a  hope  and  trust  in  heaven. 

Mount  Tabor  shines  out  resplendently  above,  while  in 
the  center  of  the  painting  our  Saviour  is  represented  as 
about  to  leave  this  world.  Below,  or  about  his  feet,  are 
prostrated  three  of  his  apostles,  who  have  been  affected  by 
the  divine  light  of  his  heavenly  face;  Moses  and  Elijah  are 
floating  about  him  in  the  air,  while  the  other  nine  disciples 
stand  waiting.  On  the  other  side  is  a  vast  multitude  of 
people  who  are  bringing  to  them  a  poor  demoniac  boy, 
whose  convulsed  limbs  and  horrid  expression  of  torture  and 
pain  cause  him  to  cry  out  for  relief:  "  O  what  shall  I  do  to 
be  saved?"  Two  of  the  apostles  point  him  to  Jesus,  whose 
face  is  divinely  beautiful.  Raphael  was  but  thirty-seven 
years  of  age  when  he  had  finished  this  picture,  and  his 
spirit  was  called  away  to  dwell  among  those  he  had  so  beau- 
tifully portrayed.  Nearly  all  these  great  artists  flourished 
in  the  sixteenth  century.  We  wandered  for  hours  amid 
the  bewildering  paintings  and  statues  in  miles  of  corridors. 
We  had  seen  the  great  masters  at  home,  the  masterpieces  of 
Raphael,  Angelo,  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Tintoretto,  and  others ; 
we  had  looked  upon  "  The  Last  Supper,"  "  The  Communion  of 
St.  Jerome,"  "  The  Dying  Gladiators,"  "  The  Laocoon,"  "  Ra- 
chel Weeping  Over  Her  Children ;"  we  had  seen  miles  of  pict- 
ures and  sculpture,  enough  frescoes  to  cover  a  small  park, 
gobelin  tapestry,  all  by  hand,  etc.,  in  the  Vatican  and  other 
places.  What  else  ?  Somebody  (may  be  the  guide-book)  said 
there  were  over  twelve  thousand  chambers  in  these  different 
buildings  yet  to  see.  I  thought  there  were  about  four  thousand. 


Art  Treasures  of  Rome.  87 

I  had  done  about  five  hundred,  and  there  would  still  be 
three  thousand  five  hundred  to  explore.  I  concluded  life 
was  too  short  to  do  the  Vatican.  I  leave  it  to  posterity. 
These  pictures  and  priceless  treasures  of  art  have  been  gath- 
ered together  from  many  places  since  the  fall  of  the  great 
Napoleon,  and  placed  in  this  historic  building.  I  used  to 
be  greatly  amused,  traveling  years  ago  over  Europe,  es- 
pecially through  Holland  and  in  Italy,  to  hear  the  guides 
remark :  "  Well,"  says  Jacobus,  at  the  Hague,  "  you  see  dis 
here  Paul  Potter's  Bull.  He  wash  once  carried  off  to  Paris 
to  the  Louvre  by  Napoleon.  We  offer  the  great  robber  one 
hundred  tousand  dollar  if  he  let  him  stay.  After  Water- 
loo we  gets  him  back."  I  was  once  standing  in  front  of  San 
Marco,  that  wonderful  old  basilica  that  ornaments  the  plaza 
in  Venice.  The  guide  remarked,  "  Do  you  observe  those 
beautiful  bronze  horses  up  dare?"  "Very  fine;  yes."  "Veil, 
dat  Napoleon  carried  dem  horses  to  Paris."  "He  did?"  "Yes; 
but  after  while  dey  came  back  home."  I  found  "  The  Trans- 
figuration "  had  made  a  similar  pilgrimage.  Napoleon  was 
a  great  admirer  of  beautiful  art.  He  never  failed  to  col- 
lect up  these  gems  and  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  the  masters  for 
the  Louvre,  in  his  memorable  campaigns  over  Europe.  But 
after  Waterloo,  by  treaty,  they  wrere  all  restored. 

They  have  one  of  the  most  wonderful  and  extensive  col- 
lections of  old  manuscripts  and  books  in  the  Vatican,  but 
nobody  ever  sees  them.  They  boast  of  a  Bible  that  dates 
back  to  the  fourth  century.  It  is  in  manuscript,  under 
lock  and  key.  It  is  said  St.  Peter  wras  buried  on  the  spot 
where  St.  Peter's  Cathedral  stands.  I  don't  believe  it.  It 
is  more  probable  that  Nero's  circus  stood  here.  The  Bible 
gives  no  account  of  St.  Peter  ever  having  been  in  Rome. 

I  went  expressly  to  the  Santa  Maria  Maggiore  to  see  the 
five  boards  on  which  the  infant  Jesus  was  laid  in  the  man- 
ger at  Bethlehem.  I  was  greatly  disappointed — the  pre 


88  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

lector  did  not  have  the  key.  But  he  would  show  some  mo- 
saic work  one  thousand  years  old — Christian  art.  The  ceil- 
ing overhead  was  burnished  with  pure  gold.  It  was  pre- 
sented by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  of  Spain,  and  brought 
from  South  America.  The  tomb  of  Pope  Pius  IX.  is  the 
most  costly  and  beautiful  in  this  basilica.  It  is  embellished 
with  precious  stones,  lapis  lazuli,  and  malachite.  A  curi- 
ous incident  is  related  in  connection  with  the  history  of  this 
old  church.  A  heavy  snow-storm  fell  on  this  spot  in  the 
month  of  August  in  the  year  352,  and  this  splendid  old 
pile  was  erected  in  commemoration  of  the  event.  It  is  on 
the  Esquiline  Hill.  Outside  the  wall  is  the  most  imposing 
and  elegant  church,  I  think,  I  saw  in  Kome.  It  is  located  on 
the  traditional  spot  where  the  apostle  Paul  was  buried,  and  is 
appropriately  named  in  his  honor  to  commemorate  the  event. 
I  regret  I  did  not  visit  the  Mamertine  Prison,  where  the 
apostle  was  confined  with  other  Christians  as  prisoners, 
though  I  was  in  sight  of  it  when  on  Capitoline  Hill.  We 
did  not  even  see  Pilate's  Staircase,  which  Luther  climbed 
on  his  knees.  But  the  famous  Capuchin  Convent  is  one  of 
the  places  to  visit.  The  monks  have  gathered  together  the 
bones  of  four  centuries  of  their  dead  brethren  from  the 
crypts  and  catacombs  of  Rome  with  which  to  ornament  and 
fresco  their  apartments.  Here  are  skulls  in  one  room, 
thigh-bones  in  another,  ribs  in  another,  and  so  on,  deftly 
arranged  in  beautiful  arches  and  towering  pyramids.  You 
ask  these  monks  who  did  this,  and  they  will  reply,  "  We 
did  it."  They  even  know  the  names  of  some  of  their  breth- 
ren who  have  been  dead  these  two  hundred  and  four  hun- 
dred years,  whose  skulls  and  bones  they  handle  and  show 
you  with  the  tenderest  regard. 

There  are  some  things  about  these  great  sculptors  worth 
knowing.  I  visited  Mr.  Hiram  Powers's  studio  during  his 
life-time,  and  he  did  me  many  acts  of  kindness  while  I 


Art  Treasures  of  Rome.  89 

was  in  Florence.  He  showed  me,  with  a  pair  of  compasses, 
how  he  measured  the  inanimate  marble,  the  width  and  depth 
of  the  face,  the  angle  of  the  nose,  the  mouth,  ears,  arms,  breast, 
to  secure  the  form  and  expression  from  the  model  in  clay. 
After  this  model  is  once  made  from  the  artist's  own  concep- 
tions, it  may  be  copied  by  a  workman  of  ordinary  skill  by 
this  system  of  measurements.  He  showed  me  the  cast  of 
the  original "  Greek  Slave/'  In  his  studio,  I  saw  many  busts 
and  faces  of  Clay,  Webster,  Calhoun,  General  Grant,  Sher- 
man, and  others.  These  are  mere  ideal  conceptions,  which 
may  not  be  copied  from  the  original.  Some  of  the  finest 
figures  are  the  copies  of  no  one  original.  It  sometimes  re- 
quires twenty  to  fifty  female  forms  to  secure  a  perfect  model. 
One  girl  furnishes  an  arm,  another  a  bust,  another  a  mouth, 
a  brow,  lips,  chin,  and  a  seventh  a  foot,  until  the  perfect 
ideal  of  woman's  beauty  is  secured.  There  are  pretty  girls 
in  all  these  great  art  centers  who  sit  for  models.  It  has  some- 
times required  even  a  hundred  to  get  the  artist's  perfect 
ideal  form.  After  all,  the  great  sculptor  must  be  a  genius. 
He  does  but  little  work  outside  of  embodying  his  grand 
conceptions  in  a  form  of  plaster  or  clay. 

It  is  seven  hours  to  Naples.  We  cannot  describe  the 
route  of  travel,  its  scenery  or  its  beauty.  It  was  night. 
We  saw  nothing  except  a  noisy  operatic  troupe — a  lot  of 
boisterous  Italians.  Early  the  following  morning  I  discov- 
ered we  were  approaching  Naples.  There  was  a  heavy 
frost  settled  on  the  market-gardens  and  the  meadows  around 
the  city.  It  was  the  23d  of  February.  In  the  distance  I 
saw  Mount  Vesuvius  sending  up  a  great  cloud  of  smoke 
which  ascended  slowly  and  bore  away  before  a  gentle  wind. 
I  saw  enough  at  the  railroad  station  of  rags,  poverty,  filth, 
and  dirt,  of  donkeys,  old  horses,  goats,  cabs,  dogs,  scream- 
ing cabmen,  insolent  urchins,  lazzaroni,  vagabonds,  and 
guides,  to  "see  Naples  and  die."  It  took  the  romance 


90  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

square  out  of  me.  I  had  pictured  a  fairy-land  with  blos- 
soms, perfumes,  roses,  and  skies  that  would  bewilder  my 
senses.  I  made  one  discovery — that  Naples  must  be  a  civ- 
ilized community,  if  we  were  to  judge  by  her  cheeky  cab- 
men. For  brazen  effrontery  the  New  York  hackinan  would 
be  shamed  out  of  existence.  I  started  for  Hotel  Metropole, 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  great  strada,  located  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains,  which  commanded  a  grand  view  of  Vesuvius 
across  the  Bay  of  Naples. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

NAPLES — VESUVIUS — POMPEII. 

I  AM  perfectly  charmed  with  my  hotel.  My  window,  in 
the  second  story,  looks  out  on  a  gorgeous  scene  of  beau- 
ty— the  city,  the  bay,  and  Vesuvius,  all  in  one  grand  pano- 
rama. But  I  can  get  no  soap.  I  have  shouted,  screamed, 
and  pulled  the  bell-line  for  soap.  I  have  been  similarly 
embarrassed  in  other  places ;  but  I  thought  Naples  ought 
to  be  a  soap-factory.  The  woman  rushed  up  after  some 
time,  and  thought  I  was  crazy.  She  finally  brought  me  a 
small  piece  (sent  down  town  after  it,  quite  probably),  and 
then  charged  me  a  franc  or  half  franc  for  it.  It  was  French 
soap,.I  suppose;  it  took  French  to  get  it.  There  is  another 
serious  impediment  to  travel  in  Italy ;  it  is  the  bougie.  I 
was  nearly  a  week  finding  out  what  this  meant  on  my  bills. 
It  appeared  quite  often,  and  at  extravagant  prices.  It  must 
be  some  aristocratic  dish ;  but  it  turned  out  to  be  a  tallow- 
candle.  I  then  determined  on  plenty  of  bougies  and  savon, 
but  it  did  no  good ;  they  kept  charging  them  on  the  bills 
just  the  same.  In  Naples  they  charge  for  everything  they 
can  think  of.  If  you  owe  them  nothing,  they  make  out  a 
bill  anyhow.  This  morning  I  took  a  drive  in  my  car- 
riage down  the  strada,  along  the  beautiful  bay.  A  fine- 


Naples —  Vesuvius — Pompeii.  91 

looking  gentleman  got  in  at  the  same  time.  He  spoke  En- 
glish, began  to  gesticulate  an'd  show  me  the  king's  palace, 
the  booking-office  of  the  Salerno  railroad  to  Vesuvius, 
etc.  He*  was  a  guide.  It  would  have  insulted  an  Ameri- 
can gentleman  to  offer  compensation  for  .such  courtesy  as 
that ;  but  when  I  handed  him  some  money,  he  rather  felt 
as  if  I  ought  to  have  paid  more.  But  these  vagabonds, 
these  street  gamins  and  lazzaroni  of  Naples,  if  you  look  at 
one,  he  wants  to  charge  for  it.  You  cannot  get  out  of  your 
carriage,  but  he  rushes  to  open  the  door  —  five  cents ; 
"Fine  morning,  signor" — more  money;  "Mt.  Vesuve" — 
two  cents.  He  wants  to  take  off  your  duster,  black  your 
shoes  over,  brush  your  hat;  and  if  you  lay  down  your  pack- 
age to  rest,  he  seizes  that  and  hands  it  to  you  for  another 
small  consideration.  Formerly,  I  learn,  they  used  to  bar- 
ricade the  streets  with  their  donkeys  when  they  saw  a  for- 
eigner coming,  or  cut  off  his  retreat,  if  he  fell  back ;  but 
they  have  quit  that  now — too  many  foreigners  coming  to 
Naples.  They  have  street-cars,  cabs,  and  all  kinds  of  con- 
veyances, to  get  about.  Last  night  I  paid  a  conductor  a 
ten-shilling  gold-piece,  through  mistake.  He  handed  me 
the  change  in  coppers  for  ten  cents.  I  walk  now,  unless  I 
have  the  proper  fare.  The  bay  is  in  the  shape  of  a  horse- 
shoe. At  the  upper  end  is  the  city,  with  a  half  million  in- 
habitants, which  extends  nearly  all  around.  Except  the 
strada,  or  bay  street,  the  streets  are  generally  very  narrow, 
and  the  houses,  like  those  of  Genoa,  very  tall.  They  are 
built  of  brick  and  stone,  often  stuccoed  and  covered  with 
red  tile.  The  city  extends  back  from  the  bay  half  a  mile 
or  more  to  the  foot  of  lofty  mountains.  These  are  terraced 
to  their  very  summits,  two  or  three  thousand  feet  high,  I 
suppose.  On  these  beautiful  terraces  are  the  villas  of  the 
nobility  and  the  wealthy.  The  women  are  proud  even 
when  poor.  *  They  bestow  a  great  deal  of  attention  on 


Around  ike  World  in 


Naples —  Vesuvius — Pompeii.  93 

their  personal  charms,  to  captivate  the  opposite  sex.'  So 
my  guide-book  says;  it  ought  to  know.  They  promenade 
on  their  own  house-tops,  which  are  flat  and  adorned  with 
beautiful  shrubs  and  flowers.  They  have  black  eyes,  ra- 
ven tresses,  and  are  nearly  all  brunettes.  They  are  often 
too  full  in  figure;  but  many  are  charmingly  beautiful,  and 
make  good  wives,  I  presume.  They  are  fond  of  driving  out 
of  pretty  evenings,  gossip,  etc.  Above  all  these  lovely  villas 
and  terraced  gardens  rise  the  embattled  walls  of  St.  Elmo 
Castle.  You  can  drive  or  walk  nearly  up  to  this  old  castle. 
On  one  side,  you  can  ride  on  donkeys  up  a  flight  of  stone 
steps  a  mile  high ;  on  the  other,  next  to  the  sea,  we  drove 
down  in  a  carriage.  An  Englishman  and  I  looked  down 
from  these  lofty  heights  on  Naples  below  our  feet,  its  placid 
bay  nestled  in  a  cove;  Capri  and  Ischia  in  the  distance, 
rising  out  of  the  sea ;  Torre  del  Greco  and  Sorrento  down 
its  lovely  shores ;  and  seven  miles  back  of  Torre  del  Greco 
and  Pompeii  rose  Vesuvius  in  majestic  beauty  from  a  level 
plain.  The  city  is  built  of  lava -stone;  its  streets  are 
paved  with  it,  and  beautiful  jewelry  adorning  the  shop 
windows  are  made  out  of  this  indestructible  material.  Some 
of  the  finest  stores  near  my  hotel — in  truth,  whole  streets — 
are  devoted  to  the  manufacture  and  sale  of  coral.  The 
plate-glass  windows  are  ablaze  with  the  loveliest  necklaces, 
bracelets,  and  crosses.  The  pale  coral  is  the  most  costly  of 
all  the  shades  and  colors.  Then  the  cameos  are  just  lovely. 
You  can  see  the  workmen  in  the  rear  of  nearly  all  these 
shops,  making  these  beautiful  works  of  art.  Every  day  I 
walked  miles  along  these  crowded  streets  just  to  study  the 
character  of  the  Neapolitans.  On  every  street  is  a  repe- 
tition of  Broadway,  New  York.  I  never  saw7  such  bus- 
tling, hurrying,  and  struggling  throngs  of  humanity.  There 
are  no  sidewalks ;  and  if  there  were,  the  people  would  all 
walk  in  the  middle  of  the  street.  When  they  are  wide 


94  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

enough,  there  appear  as  many  vehicles  as  there  are  pedes- 
trians. It  is  a  mystery  to  me  why  the  morning  papers  do 
not  record  a  thousand  accidents  a  day.  The  houses  they 
live  in  are  another  wonder.  You  look  five,  six,  seven,  and 
eight  stories  high,  it  seems,  and  you  see  a  little  iron  railing 
in  front  of  every  window  up  to  where  the  roof  is.  "  There 
is  somebody  always  looking  out  nearly  every  window " — 
these  pigeon-holes.  When  you  look  up  these  narrow 
streets,  the  rows  of  houses  are  so  long  and  so  tall  "  they 
resemble  a  railroad-track  coming  together  in  the  distance." 
They  stretch  lines  across  the  streets,  on  which  to  hang  their 
tattered  rags.  Then  you  see  white-robed  women  looking 
out  these  balcony  railings  from  the  bottom  to  the  topmost 
floor.  You  will  see  all  this  and  a  great  deal  more  if  you 
go  to  Naples.  You  will  see  swarms  of  ragged  children 
crowded  in  the  door,  with  unwashed  faces  and  uncombed 
hair,  looking  like  scarecrows.  You  will  see  their  chick- 
ens, donkeys,  and  goats — which  sleep  with  them — coming 
out  of  the  same  door,  or  standing  about,  early  in  the  morn- 
ing. The  goats  are  driven  from  door  to  door  and  milked 
in  a  tiny  cup.  The  milk  is  then  sold — one  of  the  few  honest 
transactions  that  occur  in  Naples.  But  the  most  curious 
sight  yet  is  to  see  these  people  eating  macaroni.  They 
live  on  macaroni.  It  is  cooked  along  the  streets,  thrown 
up  to  cool,  then  served  by  hand,  with  a  little  tomato  sauce 
dashed  on.  Two  meals  a  day  of  these  long  quills — exactly 
two  cents  worth — keeps  an  Italian  alive.  Then  it  is  more 
amusing  to  see  an  Italian  eat  it.  Sometimes  it  is  one  to  two 
feet  long.  He  keeps  roping  it  in  until  it  is  all  gone.  A 
fruit-merchant  carries  his  little  basket  along  the  streets, 
cries  his  grapes  and  oranges  all  day,  and  twice  a  day  he 
will  sit  down  himself  and  eat  a  bunch  of  grapes  and  piece  ; 
of  bread.  He  seems  perfectly  happy.  I  have  been  trying 
to  reconcile  all  this  magnificence  and  luxury  of  Naples 


Naples —  Vesuvius — Pompeii.  95 

with  all  the  vice  and  poverty  I  have.  seen.  I  cannot  do  it. 
You  see  the  dukes  and  bankers,  in  their  sumptuous  car- 
riages, with  footmen  in  livery,  dashing  down  the  Chiaja. 
Then  you  will  observe  a  donkey,  not  larger  than  a  dog,  in 
a  go-cart  with  its  proprietor.  He  too  is  splurging  down 
the  Chiaja.  The  donkeys  appear  to  be  as  happy  as  their 
titled  owners.  I  saw  one  the  other  day  making  his  din- 
ner absolutely  on  one  cabbage-head.  It  is  hard  to  tell 
who  is  the  happier,  the  donkey  or  his  bloated,  aristocratic 
master. 

Naples  is  a  very  ancient  city;  first  settled  by  the  Greeks; 
was  famous  for  its  baths  and  its  theaters,  its  matchless 
scenery  and  the  mildness  of  its  climate,  long  before  the  apos- 
tle Paul  landed  at  Pozzuoli.  According  to  Cicero,  it  was  a 
licentious  place.  Tacitus  states  that  Nero  selected  Naples 
for  his  appearance  on  the  stage.  Here  the  wealthy  assem- 
bled. It  was  a  great  seat  of  pleasure  and  voluptuous  en- 
joyment during  Caesar's  time.  Ovid  and  Virgil  sung  its 
charms.  It  boasts  of  three  hundred  churches  now,  and 
ought  to  be  a  very  pious  city ;  but  it  is  not.  They  named 
the  churches  here,  like  they  did  in  Rome,  after  the  madon- 
nas, St.  Peter,  and  Mary.  I  have  not  found  the  first 
church  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Ghost  or  our  blessed  Re- 
deemer. In  the  Madonna  dell'  Arco — seven  miles  from 
here — they  sing  and  dance  the  tarantella,  What  that  is  I 
do  not  know ;  but  I  do  know  the  dominion  of  the  Madonna 
is  universal  in  Naples ;  everybody  venerates  her. 

They  have  a  cemetery  here  called  "  Campo  Santo  Vec- 
chio,"  which  consists  of  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  cells. 
Every  morning  one  is  opened  to  receive  the  dead  of  the 
previous  day,  which  are  just  dropped  in,  covered  up,  and 
cemented  for  a  year;  the  next  morning  another  is  opened, 
and  so  on  throughout  the  year.  They  do  not  go  much  on 
style  here,  like  they  do  in  Paris. 


96  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

The  Museo  Fernando  contains  the  frescoes  and  Pompeian 
antiquities  and  the  rich  treasures  of  art  exhumed  at  Her- 
culaneum.  There  are  four  rooms,  containing  sixteen  hun- 
dred different  objects.  The  sacrifice  of  Iphigenia  pleading 
to  her  father,  who  turns  away  to  hide  his  grief;  the  figure 
of  Diana  in  the  clouds;  Hercules  killing  the  lion,  etc.,  are 
among  the  most  beautiful  and  touching  representations  in 
this  rich  collection.  The  mosaics  are  equally  as  grand  as 
works  of  art.  There  are  four  thousand  specimens  of  an- 
cient glass  and  terra  cotta  in  another  room.  There  is  the 
secret  cabinet,  in  which  no  lady  is  admitted.  Those  old 
Pompeians  were  a  wicked  people.  I  saw  numbers  of  little 
lachrymal  bottles,  which  they  placed  to  their  eyes  to  re- 
lieve their  overburdened  hearts  with.*  They  had  scales, 
balances,  weights,  lounges,  chairs,  furniture,  bowls,  pitch- 
ers, cups,  jewelry,  watch-chains,  charms — even  many  of  the 
cooking-utensils,  implements,  and  tools  we  see  nowadays. 

THE  LOST  CITY  OF  POMPEII. 

They  pronounce  it  here  Pom-pay-e.  It  is  the  greatest 
wonder  of  all  the  Roman  antiquities.  It  fills  every  trav- 
eler who  beholds  it  with  astonishment.  We  take  the  Cas- 
tellamare  railroad  down  the  bay,  pass  Terre  del  Greco, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  arrive  at  our  station.  It  is  about 
twelve  or  fifteen  miles  from  Naples,  and  close  to  the  sea- 
shore. We  walk  a  few  hundred  yards  and  enter  the  Sea 
Gate.  We  have  a  guide  furnished  free  to  do  the  tenantless 
houses  and  deserted  streets.  This  is  very  thoughtful  on  the 
part  of  the  Government ;  but  when  we  are  expected  to  pur- 
chase before  departing  twenty  dollars  worth  of  souvenirs — 
principally  pictures  of  the  departed  city — I  say  this  Gov- 
ernment needs  watching.  But  it  is  well  worth  the  trouble 
for  the  seeing.  It  is  a  most  curious  sight.  Pompeii  was 
overwhelmed  by  ashes  and  cinders  from  the  extinct  cone  of 

*  When  dead,  these  tear-bottles  were  buried  with  them. 


Naples —  Vesuvius — Pompeii. 


97 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


Somma,  on  Mt.  Vesuvius,  in  the  year  79.  It  lay  buried  for 
one  thousand  six  hundred  years,  buried  from  forty  to  one 
hundred  feet  deep.  In  1748  it  was  accidently  discovered 
by  some  peasant  cutting  a  ditch.  Since  that  date  the  ex- 
humation has  been  going  on,  and  I  saw  a  number  of  men 
still  at  work  removing  the  debris,  and  bringing  to  light  new 
houses,  new  treasures,  and  more  streets. 

We  ascended  a  narrow  street  from  the  Sea  Gate,  and  be- 
fore us  stood  on  either  side  long  rows  of  roofless  houses,  solid 
brick,  just  as  they  stood  one  thousand  eight  hundred  years 
ago.  As  we  walk  up  one  street  and  down  another,  we  nat- 
urally look  for  the  inhabitants  to  come  out  of  their  doors  and 
say  good-morning.  Here  lie  scattered  in  profusion  broken 
pillars,  door-ways  that  are  doorless,  broken  arches  and  col- 
umns, walls,  and  roofless  houses  whose  clean-swept  floors 
display  a  wealth  of  mosaics  in  pictured  birds,  animals,  and 
flowers  that  have  remained  imperishable  till  this  day.  We 
walk  on  narrow  sidewalks,  and  cross  from  one  corner  to 
the  other  on  stepping-stones,  just  as  the  Pompeians  did  when 
the  streets  were  muddy.  We  see  the  chariot-wheels'  deep 
ruts  still  in  the  paved  streets  of  lava,  and  even  the  foot- 
prints of  by-gone  ages.  Here  are  the  bake-shops,  the  wine- 
jars,  the  baths,  the'  theaters,  the  temples,  the  halls  of  justice, 
that  are  suggestive  of  wealth  and  opulence  among  a  great 
people.  Here  are  the  saloons  and  bed-chambers,  frescoed 
with  beautiful  allegories  representing  Adonis,  Venus,  and 
Bacchus  falling  in  love  and  reveling  over  their  wine-cups. 
Every  thing  is  so  life-like,  so  natural,  except  the  want  of  a 
population,  who  seem  to  have  left  just  a  few  days  before. 
Our  guide  shows  the  house  of  Sallust,  the  tragic  poet,  the 
temple  of  Venus,  and  on  the  top  of  a  hill  the  ruins  of  a 
Roman  forum  with  its  temples,  porticos,  and  curse,  once  a 
most  imposing  structure. 

In  many  private  houses  I  could  distinguish  the  bed-rooms, 


Xaplea —  Vesuvius — Pompeii.  99 

di  Ding-halls,  servants'-rooms,  and  kitchen,  and  many  ele- 
gantly fitted  apartments,  with  water- works  and  hydrants. 
They  had  private  as  well  as  public  baths,  with  pipes  for  hot 
and  cold  water.  I  saw  them.  At  the  "  Marine  Gate  Mi- 
nerva is  still  keeping  her  tireless  watch  over  the  destinies 
of  the  city  she  could  not  save."  In  the  forum  of  justice 
were  beautiful  Ionic  and  Corinthian  columns  scattered  up 
and  down  the  long  colonnade  of  dismembered  pillars.  Here 
were  the  seats  of  the  judges,  and  behind  them  the  dungeons 
in  which  the  prisoners  were  once  confined. 

I  saw  the  ruins  of  an  amphitheater  older  than  the  Col- 
osseum at  Rome.  The  seats  of  a  Greek  theater  were  in  a 
good  state  of  preservation,  being  circular  and  built  of  stone. 
There  were  subterranean  passages,  through  which  the  pleas- 
ure-loving people  could  enter  these  theaters  from  the  sea. 
Some  of  the  houses  in  Pompeii  have  temporary  roofs  thrown 
over  them,  and  are  under  lock  and  key.  They  contain  fres- 
coes on  the  wall  similar  to  those  transferred  from  here  to  the 
secret  chamber  in  the  Fernando  Museum.  The  names  were 
found  carved  on  many  of  the  thoroughfares,  such  as  "  Mer- 
chants' Street"  and  the  "Street  of  Fortune."  In  this  way 
many  elegant  private  residences,  with  floors  of  mosaic  and 
marble  and  walls  richly  frescoed,  were  identified. 

But  Pompeii  is  no  longer  a  buried  city.  In  its  hundreds 
of  roofless  houses,  with  its  tangled  maze  of  streets  running  up 
and  down  and  over  many  hills,  one  might  easily  get  lost 
without  a  guide.  The  city  has  six  gates  by  which  it  was 
entered,  and  a  wall  twenty  feet  in  diameter  and  quite  as 
high.  No  trace  of  the  wall  is  found  next  to  the  sea,  but 
the  excavations  extend  to  the  northern  and  western  walls 
«f  the  city,  I  believe.  I  stood  on  the  parapet  and  looked 
down  the  "Street  of  Tombs,"  which  recalls  the  ancient 
splendors  of  the  Appian  Way. 

What  a  melancholy  spectacle  must  have  been  presented 


100 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


on  that  memorable  November  night,  when  that  cloud  of 
cinders  and  hot  ashes  rained  down  on  the  doomed  city!  It 
seemed  that  I  could  almost  hear  the  heart-rending  cries  for 
aid  from  mother,  father,  sister,  and  brother,  as  they  fled  in 
dismay  from  the  impending  death  and  destruction.  Mothers 
with  infants  in  their  arms,  and  their  children  gathering 
about  them  for  protection,  must  have  awakened  the  deep- 
est sympathies  in  the  human  heart.  As  I  stand  gazing  on 
that  same  mountain,  only  seven  miles  distant,  which  over- 
whelmed this  city  in  ruin,  and  which  Pliny  the  younger 
beheld  with  horror  trying  to  save  the  life  of  his  poor 
mother,  I  must  confess  to  a  feeling  of  awe  in  its  presence. 
It  is  the  only  active  volcano  I  ever  saw.  Some  day  it  may 
overwhelm  Naples,  as  on  frequent  occasions  its  cinders  and 
ashes  have  fallen  several  inches  deep  in  that  city.  As  we 
returned,  we  saw  in  a  museum  outside  the  Sea  Gate  many 
interesting  objects  exhumed  in  the  excavations.  The  fol- 
lowing illustration  of  two  petrified  bodies,  showing  the  po- 
sition in  which  they  were  found,  is  very  correct.  You  per- 


PETKIFJED  BODIEb, 


Naples — Vesuvius — Pompeii.  101 

ceive  one  is  that  of  a  woman  having  fallen  on  her  face.  By 
some  chemical  process  the  natural  expression  .of  their^cea 
has  been  restored.  Many  cooking-ut^nsiis,,  lr>a\  es  of  bread, 
eggs,  and  other  articles,  are  preserved  in  glass  cases  ,in  .£his" 
museum.  I  noticed  the  skeleton  otf.a.dog.  V,w.^iose  very  howl 
seemed  petrified." 

As  I  returned  to  Naples  at  night  Vesuvius  was  sending 
up  flashes  of  flame  that  cast  a  lurid  light  on  her  awful  brow. 
I  asked  an  Englishwoman  who  is  living  here  if  she  was  not 
afraid  of  sharing  the  fate  of  Pompeii.  "  O  no,"  she  replied ; 
"  as  long  as  that  crater  is  active  we  are  safe.  Why,  Ve- 
suvius is  our  great  safety-valve."  And  she  was  right. 

The  more  I  see  of  these  Neapolitans  the  more  I  am  per- 
suaded they  are  copying  in  their  lives  the  same  habits  and 
customs,  the  same  vices  and  sins,  the  Pompeians  had.  They 
have  the  same  kind  of  little  shops,  utensils,  bed-rooms,  chick- 
ens and  dogs  about  their  doors.  I  think  they  copy  their 
morals,  too,  from  their  deceased  ancestors.  They  grind  their 
wheat  in  little  mills  with  the  baker's  shop  next  door,  just 
the  same  as  the  Pompeians  did;  but  they  have  no  baths 
and  no  soap.  Some  day  they  may  fly,  as  the  Pompeians 
fled,  with  their  money-bags,  looking  back  on  their  impend- 
ing doom.  Some  will  be  found  sitting  up  against  a  pillar 
or  post,  or  squatted  with  their  household  pets  about  the 
door.  The  bulk  of  them  will  be  found  eating  macaroni  or 
trying  to  swindle  some  foreigner  out  of  ten  shillings.  But 
I  do  n't  think  their  money-bags  will  offer  any  obstructions 
to  their  flight.  Alas  for  these  Neapolitans !  I  do  n't  like 
them  much  "nohow." 

ASCENT  OF  VESUVIUS. 

They  have  a  railroad  running  up  nearly  to  the  summit  of 
Vesuvius  now,  by  which  it  can  be  easily  reached  from  the 
plain  below.  I  had  for  my  companion  a  Russian  ship- 
master, who  was  on  his  way,  or  returning,  from  Catania, 


102  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Sicily,  with  a  load  of  sulphur.  He  spoke  very  good  En- 
glish,, and  nearly  all  his  conversation  in  this  language  with 
me  was  abo;.;t  the  $}nglish  people,  the  English  Government, 
the-  inevitable  ,war,  etc.,  I  think  he  cherished  sulphurous 
designs,  evidently;,  fi;om  the  manifest  of  his  cargo.  We  pro- 
cured tickets  at  the  office  of  the  Salerno  railroad  sta- 
tion early  one  morning  in  Naples — twenty-five  francs — to 
the  summit  of  Vesuvius  and  return.  It  is  about  twelve  to 
fifteen  miles,  and  nearly  all  this  distance  must  be  made  by 
a  coach,  or  carriage,  through  the  city,  across  the  Campagna, 
and  then  by  steep,  winding  roads  up  to  the  plain,  two  thou- 
sand feet  high,  from  which  the  two  lofty  peaks  of  Vesuvius 
shoot  up.  One  of  these  peaks,  the  one  that  overwhelmed 
Pompeii  and  Herculaneum,  is  extinct;  the  other,  or  one 
nearest  to  us,  is  active.  These  peaks,  which  rise  from  the 
elevated  plain,  appear  almost  perpendicular,  and  must  be 
nearly  a  mile  high.  This  is  the  part  the  railroad  runs  up. 
As  soon  as  we  had  traversed  the  distance  through  the  city 
we  came  in  full  view  of  the  volcano.  Below  it,  on  its  steep 
sides  and  gentle  slopes,  as  far  as  we  could  see  all  around, 
were  vast  fields  of  black  scoriae,  an  ocean  of  lava,  which 
seemed  to  have  rolled  and  tumbled  in  the  wildest  confusion 
and  unutterable  chaos.  In  its  reckless  flow  it  appears  each 
successive  eruption  "  had  .piled  up  in  billowy  waves  black 
and  wrinkled  and  knotted  masses  that  assumed  a  thousand 
weird  and  fantastic  shapes,  mimicking  roots,  gnarls,  trunks, 
and  branches  of  trees"  that  had  rolled  up  together.  Over 
this  blackened  field  of  death  and  ruin  the  petrified  lava 
had  assumed  different  shades  and  colors.  Some  was  brown, 
some  coal-black,  and  other  parts  shaded  off  in  chrome,  slate, 
etc.  I  was  told  it  required  ten  years  for  this  lava  thrown 
out  of  the  crater  to  cool.  When  we  had  gone  across  the 
little  valley,  or  Campagna,  that  lay  between  the  city  and 
the  foot  of  the  lava-fields,  we  began  a  gradual  ascent  up  a 


Naples —  Vwiww — Pompeii.  1  03 

winding  road  all  laid  with  lava,  and  on  either  side  fenced 
with  blocks  of  lava-stone.  Where  the  lava  had  been  re- 
moved, gardens,  little  fields,  and  orchards  of  figs,  pomegran- 
ates, peaches,  almonds,  oranges,  lemons,  were  growing  in 
great  profusion,  planted  in  rows.  Between  the  trees  I  saw 
cabbages,  beans,  lettuce,  pease,  and  other  vegetables,  grow- 
ing. The  soil  was  disintegrated  lava,  black  and  friable, 
as  rich  as  the  guano-beds  of  Peru.  The  Lachrymse  Christi 
wine  is  made  here.  Up,  up,  by  a  gradual  ascent,  we  keep 
winding  until  we  come  to  a  gate.  Now  the  houses  and  gar- 
dens begin  to  disappear,  and  the  city,  with  its  matchless  bay, 
slumbers  far  below  us.  What  a  panorama  of  life  and  death, 
of  hope  and  despair,  lies  behind  and  before  us!  In  the 
deepest  study  and  contemplation  in  awe  of  all  this  grandeur 
and  beauty,  suddenly  a  band  of  music  struck  up  a  perfect 
"daisy"  of  an  air  on  the  road-side.  As  we  approached  very 
near,  three  men  rose  and  bowed,  with  flutes,  guitar,  and 
tambourine — I  don't  remember — then  walked  in  front  sere- 
nading us,  then  they  fell  behind  and  serenaded  us,  then  they 
advanced  on  the  side  of  our  carriage  with  hats  off  and  ser- 
enaded us.  After  we  paid  off  the  band  and  discharged  our 
music,  and  were  beginning  to  reassume  a  meditative  mood, 
up  ran  a  great  stalwart  vagabond  with  a  bunch  of  flowers 
in  hand.  If  it  had  been  decoration-day  in  Georgia  I  vent- 
ure the  assertion  this  fellow  could  have  furnished  flowers 
for  all  the  soldiers'  graves.  The  captain  and  I  ascended  to 
Vesuvius  amid  a  procession  of  music  and  blossoms  that 
would  have  honored  no  ordinary  occasion.  It  was  a  very 
unexpected  ovation,  however,  and  very  unpremeditated  on 
our  part.  We  had  now  ascended  two  thousand  feet  up  to 
the  railroad  station,  three  miles  above  the  Campagna  below, 
from  which  shot  up  the  cone,  with  its  little  railroad.  Here 
was  an  elegant  little  hotel,  charges  very  high,  the  station 
with  its  waiting-rooms,  passengers  loitering  about  the  en- 


104  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

gine  examining  the  machinery,  and  other  curious  spectators 
looking  nearly  perpendicularly  up  the  track  at  a  little  car 
descending.  It  seemed  to  feel  its  way  quietly  and  cautiously 
down,  down  a  thousand  feet  or  more  off  the  summit  of 
Mount  Vesuvius.  There  were  several  people  in  there  half 
frightened  to  death,  it  appeared — holding  on,  all  the  way, 
afraid  the  cable  ropes  would  break,  and  then  they  would  be 
pitched  head  foremost  down  into  unutterable  woe  and  eter- 
nity. It  did  look  rather  reckless  to  attempt  that  aerial 
voyage.  But  then  the  road  had  been  in  operation  several 
years  with  no  accident  or  loss,  and  this  in  itself  was  some 
consolation.  I  noticed  the  people  who  jumped  out  of  this 
little  street-car  when  it  had  descended.  There  was  a  sense 
of  consciousness  which  found  expression  in  their  faces  that 
was  truly  marvelous.  Every  one  seemed  satisfied,  abso- 
lutely overwhelmed  with  its  grandeur;  but  they  would 
never  make  that  ascent  again. 

The  road-bed  consisted  of  a  single  rail,  or  track — or  rather 
two  rails,  or  double  tracks — on  which  were  drawn  up  and 
down  by  powerful  cable  ropes  two  little  cars,  one  going  up 
while  the  other  descended.  Each  car  was  balanced  by  these 
cables,  one  on  either  side  underneath.  A  powerful  engine 
below  moved  the  cars  up  and  down,  attached  to  these  ca- 
bles, which  worked  around  a  turn-table  above.  The  cars, 
being  balanced  and  firmly  held  by  these  cables,  were  moved 
along  by  a  convex  wheel  which  worked  in  the  center  un- 
derneath, hugging  either  side  of  the  single  rail.  The  car 
coming  down  helps  to  draw  the  other  up.  You  perceive  at 
once  the  economy  of  power  in  this  momentum.  The  prin- 
ciple is  purely  American,  and  if  I  am  not  mistaken  I  saw 
this  model  at  the  Philadelphia  Centennial  in  1876.  The 
road-bed  is  laid  in  lava-stone,  solid.  As  a  financial  venture 
it  has  been  a  success.  I  asked  one  of  the  officials  if  he  was 
not  afraid  of  being  overwhelmed.  "O  no,"  he  said;  "we 


Naples —  Vesuvius — Pompeii.  105 

don't  mind  that.  The  road  has  paid  for  itself."  Several 
of  the  passengers  did  not  attempt  it.  If  we  do  n't  hold  on 
we  all  slide  down  in  a  pile  together.  In  fifteen  minutes  we 
are  up,  and  then  we  find  we  have  threfe  or  four  hundred 
yards  to  climb  through  smoke  and  clouds  on  burning-hot 
ground  underneath  us.  The  first  consideration  is  to  con- 
tract with  the  guide.  They  are  all  here,  and  will  ask 
twenty  prices ;  and  if  they  could  get  what  they  asked,  they 
would  grieve  the  remainder  of  their  days  that  they  did  not 
ask  more.  A  number  of  times  we  had  to  stop  'and  rest 
after  leaving  the  station.  A  winding  path  is  walled  in, 
almost  perpendicular;  but  we  cut  across,  like  the  people 
did  in  Pompeii,  to  save  distance.  We  could  see  nothing 
except  the  guide  and  a  few  yards  around  us.  If  we  wanted 
to  see  our  comrades  ahead,  we  looked  up ;  if  we  wanted  to 
see  who  was  coming  behind,  we  looked  below.  At  last  we 
stood,  or  rather  walked,  on  the  summit.  It  was  burning- 
hot  under  my  soles.  You  could  roast  an  egg  or  light  your 
cigar  at  the  crevices  or  fissures  in  the  rocks.  There  were 
sulphurous  gases  and  smoke  issuing  out  of  all  these  places, 
and  one  time  I  came  near  stumbling  in  a  hole  large  enough 
to  alarm  me.  I  got  down  and  heard  it  roaring  underneath. 
I  was  satisfied.  Then  I  gathered  up  specimens  of  the  most 
beautifully  tinted  colors — sulphur-coated  rocks,  red,  black, 
yellow,  blue,  brown,  and  white.  Such  a  combination  of 
colors,  such  magnificence,  as  shone  resplendent  on  Vesu- 
vius's  jeweled  brow!  We  crept  along  over  this  burning 
volcano  behind  the  guide  until  we  reached  the  crater.  He 
punched  off  a  piece  of  it  with  his  walking-stick.  We  stood 
afar  off  and  bent  our  necks  trying  to  look  over.  It  was  a 
dark,  bottomless-looking  chasm — a  pit,  a  gulf,  from  which 
issued  clouds  of  sulphurous  smoke.  We  held  our  nostrils, 
then  our  breath,  then  we  departed.  It  is  several  hundred 
yards  across  the  crater,  and  maybe  farther.  There  was  an 


106  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

indescribable  pandemonium  of  unnatural  sounds,  deafen- 
ing, uproarious  noises,  below.  It  roared  like  distant  artil- 
lery. The  lava  was  flowing  out  on  the  opposite  side,  the 
lower  side,  the  guide  said.  To  prove  this  he  said  that  boy 
(there  were  several  following  us)  would  take  a  copper  cent, 
if  I  had  one,  and  in  a  few  minutes  he  would  bring  it  back 
incased  in  red-hot  lava.  What  a  souvenir!  "Name  your 
price."  "  O  signor ;  poor  boy  very  hungry  [placing  his  hand 
on  his  dinner-box] ;  about  twenty  franc,  say."  "  He  will  get 
a  half  d*ollar  if  he  comes  back;  if  he  falls  in,  I  will  give 
you  more."  Off  he  went,  running  around  the  brink  of  the 
crater,  and  soon  disappeared  in  impenetrable  darkness. 

RETURNING. 

I  believe  we  could  have  descended  that  mountain  in  ten 
minutes.  Every  step  with  prodigious  strides  we  plowed 
our  way  down  through  loose  ashes  nearly  knee-deep.  Pres- 
ently we  reached  the  railroad  station,  and  just  as  we  were 
about  to  embark  for  below  that  little  vagabond  came  run- 
ning with  the  piece  of  lava  he  had  jerked  out  of  the  mouth 
of  Vesuvius.  That 's  twice  I  score  an  Italian  for  honesty— 
the  man  who  milked  the  goats  and  this  boy  who  cheated 
Vesuvius  out  of  its  just  deserts.  This  volcano  has  erupted 
forty-five  times  since  the  destruction  of  Pompeii  and  Her- 
culaneum  in  79.  I  believe  that.  In  1777,  the  guide-book 
further  states,  a  liquid  column  resembling  a  flame  of  fire 
was  thrown  up  ten  thousand  feet,  and  the  ashes  and 
cinders  were  blown  over,  or  fell,  on  Alexandria,  Egypt,, 
perhaps,  and  Constantinople,  Turkey.  I  do  n't  believe  that. 
It  further  states  that  "  eighty-two  different  species  of  min- 
erals have  been  discovered  in  the  vicinity  of  Vesuvius."  I 
think  the  man  at  the  hotel  below  must  have  had  them  all,, 
more  or  less.  We  enjoyed  an  enraptured  view  of  the  bay 
and  city  half-way  down  the  Salerno  railroad,  but  the 
summit  was  enveloped  in  mist  and  a  cloud  of  smoke.  From 


Naples —  Vesuvius — Pompeii.  107 

three  thousand  feet  we  had  soon  descended  on  Naples  along 
the  sea-shore. 

SORRENTO,  CAPRI,  THE  BLUE  GROTTO,  AND  ISOHIA. 

Never  did  a  more  lovely  morning  dawn  than  on  the  sixth 
of  March,  when  we  started  down  the  Bay  of  Naples  on  the 
most  delightful  excursion  imaginable.  The  sun  rose  over 
the  Apennines  in  gorgeous  splendor,  bathing  the  city  and 
its  hills  above  in  a  flood  of  golden  light.  We  passed  down 
under  the  great  shadow  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  gliding  -by  Sor- 
rento with  the  air  perfumed  with  orange-blossoms  and  the 
city  looking  out  from  its  mountain  home  enveloped  in  a 
wealth  of  foliage.  The  house  of  Tasso  is  pointed  out.  In 
poesy  and  song,  Sorrento,  thy  name  will  live  immortal. 
Here  are  terraced  gardens  rising  above  each  other — gar- 
dens of  oranges,  pomegranates,  grapes,  and  figs.  You  can 
climb  up  terraced  walks  and  winding  roads,  inclosed  by  tall 
stone  walls,  to  the  very  summits  of  these  mountains. 

Around  our  boat  are  little  boys  clapping  their  hands  and 
singing  songs.  If  you  throw  a  dime  in  the  crystal  waters 
below,  every  boy  leaps  from  his  boat  in  eager  pursuit. 
Presently  one  comes  swimming  to  his  boat  with  the  gilded 
prize,  clapping  his  hands  and  singing  for  more.  Twenty 
miles  down  the  bay  we  reach  Capri,  a  beautiful  island  of 
rock  rising  out  of  the  sea.  It  was  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Em- 
peror Tiberius,  whose  crumbling  palace  lies  in  stately  ruins. 
It  is  no  less  famous  for  its  orange-groves,  vines,  pomegran- 
ates, and  figs  than  for  its  matchless  wonder,  the  Blue  Grot- 
to. The  entrance  to  the  cave  is  on  the  perpendicular  side 
of  a  high  cliff — an  abrupt  sea-wall.  Our  steamer  stops  a 
short  distance  off,  and  we  descend  into  small  row-boats 
manned  by  experienced  boatmen.  They  row  us  rapidly  to- 
ward this  wall,  and,  waiting  for  the  lowest  wave,  shoot  us 
into  a  hole  four  feet  wide  and  four  feet  high.  I  laid  flat  on 


108  Around  the  World  in  1884 

my  back.  It  is  a  tight  squeeze  at  that.  When  the  tide  is 
up,  you  cannot  enter  at  all.  Now  once  in,  we  behold  an 
arched  cavern,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  one 
hundred  feet  wide,  and  seventy-five  feet  high.  The  depth 
of  it  nobody  knows ;  it  is  as  deep  as  the  ocean.  You  can- 
not conceive  of  any  object  as  bright,  as  lovely,  as  blue  as 
this  little  grotto.  The  brightest  tint  of  an  Italian  sky  would 
pale  before  its  transparent  luster.  A  man  jumps  overboard, 
and  his  body  becomes  an  azure  blue.  OUT  oars,  with  which 
we  glide  about  in  the  cavern,  are  tinted  with  azure  and 
burnished  as  with  the  brightest  silver. 

Returning,  we  stopped  at  the  town  of  Capri,  located  mid- 
way of  the  island  on  its  very  summit.  We  reach  the  pub- 
lic square  by  a  flight  of  terraced  steps,  with  a  scene  of  trop- 
ical grandeur  and  beauty  below  me  and  a  view  of  the  Med- 
iterranean from  both  sides  of  the  town  perfectly  grand. 
The  orange-trees,  planted  eight  by  ten,  are  protected  by  high 
walls ;  and  in  winter,  when  frost  falls,  the  people  cover  the 
trees  over  with  matting. 

On  the  left  we  behold  Ischia.in  ruins,  her  walls  tumbled 
down,  and  houses  roofless.  Here  three  thousand  people  per- 
ished last  year  from  the  shock  of  an  earthquake.  The  peo- 
ple were  crushed  to  death  by  the  falling  houses  in  their 
fright  and  frantic  efforts  to  escape  by  their  boats  to  sea. 
Ischia,  once  a  beautiful  island,  is  full  of  sadness  and  mourn- 
ing now. 

There  are  many  other  interesting  spots  in  and  around 
Naples.  I  went  out  to  Virgil's  tomb,  at  the  entrance  to 
the  grotto  of  Pausilipo.  I  passed  through  the  tunnel  cut 
by  the  ancient  Romans  for  a  drive  down  the  coast  to  Baise, 
the  Temple  of  Serapis,  Lake  Agnano,  with  a  portion  of  the 
ancient  city  still  visible  above  its  waters.  Here  Horace, 
Cicero,  and  Virgil  dwelt.  The  hot  baths  of  Baise  have 
been  celebrated  in  their  verses.  The  voluptuousness  of  the 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  109 

women  and  their  depravity  in  those  days,  if  we  are  to  credit 
Cicero,  were  sufficient  to  provoke  the  wrath  of  Vesuvius 
upon  their  heads.  And  there  is  Procida  and  Pozzuoli, 
where  St.  Paul  landed  after  he  sailed  from  the  island  of 
Samos.  Near  here  a  mountain  rose  up  in  one  night.  Pliny 
wrote  about  the  poisonous  vapors  of  Grotto  del  Cane. 
Hold  a  dog  or  chicken  there,  and  it  kills  either  almost  in- 
stantly. We  could  not  make  the  experiment.  We  had 
good  reasons  for  not  doing  it.  But  it  is  said  the  dogs  are 
so  in  the  habit  of  dying  they  do  n't  mind  it  at  all. 

Naples  has  a  beautiful  garden,  through  which  we  pass  on 
our  return,  in  which  there  is  the  finest  aquarium  in  all  Eu- 
rope. The  water  is  turned  into  glass  domes  from  the  sea. 
Here  I  saw  the  skate-fish,  that  cuts  with  its  tail ;  the  equid, 
that  moves  backward ;  the  water-spider,  the  cuttle-fish,  lob- 
ster, dog-fish,  octopus,  eels,  etc.  There  are  two  natural  won- 
ders in  this  exhibition  that  excite  the  greatest  interest.  One 
is  the  hermit  crab,  that  hides  in  other  shells  except  its  own, 
and  the  little  sea-horse,  with  head  and  ears  precisely  similar 
to  that  animal.  But  most  beautiful  of  all  the  wonders  in 
this  aquarium  are  the  coral  insects  at  work.  They  work  in 
many  colors,  the  pink,  yellow,  and  white  predominating. 
These  are  the  little  stone-masons  that  construct  deep  dowr 
in  the  sea  the  most  dangerous  reefs  along  the  mariner's  path 
way. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

PROM  NAPLES  TO  MESSINA,  SICILY. 

'""PHE  sun  was  setting  on  the  Bay  of  Naples,  and  gilding 
-1  its  glorious  heights  with  his  departing  rays  as  our  hand- 
some little  ship,  of  the  Rubitino  line,  steamed  down  amidst 
a  wilderness  of  shipping  and  studding  sail.  As  the  length- 
ening shadows  drew  the  curtain  over  the  departing  day,  I 


110  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

sat  under  the  magic  spell  of  enchantment  that  seemed  to 
inthrall  me,  watching  St.  Elmo  with  its  embattled  heights, 
and  Naples  thousands  of  feet  below,  until  its  towers  and 
cathedral  spires  had  faded  on  the  gorgeous  view.  The  moon 
and  stars  succeeded  the  day  in  radiant  splendor,  reflecting 
the  dim  outlines  of  Vesuvius  in  our  rear,  and  the  shadows 
of  Ischia  on  our  right  in  its  sleepless  hush  of  death.  Next 
appeared  the  matchless  Isle  of  Capri  rising  out  of  the  sea  with 
its  rugged,  overhanging  cliffs,  whose  great  shadows  darkened 
our  bow  as  we  glided  through  it  on  our  way  south  to  the 
beautiful  Isle  of  Sicily. 

We  had  for  compagnons  de  voyage  an  old  gentleman  and 
his  pretty  young  wife — San  Franciscans — on  a  three-years 
voyage  around  the  world.  It  was  a  delightful  meeting,  a 
meeting  of  kindred  tongues  and  languages.  But  we  were 
to  part  at  Messina,  perhaps  never  to  meet  again.  They 
were  bound  for  Constantinople  and  the  Black  Sea;  I  still 
farther  south — to  Malta  and  Alexandria,  Egypt.  Early  in 
the  morning  we  saw  the  city  of  Messina  gleaming  in  the 
distance.  Its  milk-white  houses  and  lofty  spires  rose  along 
the  water's  edge.  In  the  rear  were  the  grandest  mountains 
terraced  nearly  to  their  summits,  a  bewildering  panorama 
of  lemon-gardens  that  rose  above  each  other  in  peerless 
grandeur.  From  their  luxuriant  foliage  peeped  out  many 
a  pretty  villa.  To  our  left,  as  we  entered  its  matchless  har- 
bor, I  gazed  upon  the  snow-capped  mountains  of  Calabria, 
whose  sloping  sides  near  the  sea  were  terraced  in  orange- 
groves.  The  mountains  on  the  opposite  side  presented  a 
similar  spectacle  of  luscious  fruits,  fragrant  flowers  and 
blood.  Here  was  a  fairy  scene,  a  region  that  seemed  to 
have  been  dropped  out  of  heaven. 

From  Naples  to  Messina  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles. 
We  anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  take  a  small  boat  for  the 
shore.  I  see  an  American  man-of-war  flying  the  stars  and 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  Ill 

stripes.  It  is  the  "  Kearsarge,"  which,  twenty  years  ago,  oft 
Cherbourg,  France,  engaged  that  dauntless  hero,  Captain 
Semmes,  of  the  "Alabama,"  in  a  death-struggle.  The  combat 
lasted  one  hour  and  fifteen  minutes.  The  "Alabama"  was  a 
wooden  ship.  Captain  Semmes  supposed  he  was  fighting  a 
wooden  ship ;  but  it  was  proved  the  "Kearsarge  "  had  let  down 
chains  on  her  sides,  which  gave  her  a  plated  armor.  With 
superior  armament  and  more  men,  however,  the  "  Kearsarge" 
was  badly  crippled.  Captain  Semmes  lost  ten  men  by  drown- 
ing whom  Captain  Winslow  could  have  rescued;  but  he  was 
afraid  to  approach  the  "Alabama,"  although  he  saw  she  was 
going  down.  Captain  Semmes  and  many  of  his  officers — 
among  the  number  our  gallant  Georgian,  Lieutenant  Kell — 
were  saved  by  the  English  steam-yacht,  the  "  Deer-hound." 
But  the  once  hostile  foe  is  our  ship  now,  and  that  is  our  flag. 

We  walk  along  the  wide,  clean  quays,  charmed  with  the 
beauty  of  Messina,  its  bustle  and  trade.  We  see  many 
ships  loading  here  for  Dundee  (Scotland),  Liverpool,  New 
York,  and  other  ports,  with  oranges,  lemons,  orange-peel, 
pickled  oranges  and  lemons,  to  be  manufactured  into  mar- 
malade and  citric  acid.  Thousands  of  little  boxes  — just  the 
same  that  we  see  at  home — are  being  hauled  and  loaded  for 
distant  ports.  That  ubiquitous  little  animal,  the  donkey, 
has  hauled  his  last  load,  and  is  eating  his  dinner;  but  it  is 
fruit  instead  of  cabbages  this  time.  These  animals  are  fed 
on  the  peel.  This  and  Palermo  are  the  great  fruit-markets, 
as  New  Orleans,  Savannah,  and  Charleston,  in  the  South, 
are  our  great  cotton  ports.  Oranges  are  grown  mostly  on 
the  Italian  side  of  the  strait,  in  Calabria,  while  lemons  are 
more  extensively  cultivated  in  Sicily;  but,  being  shipped 
from  Messina,  they  are  known  by  that  name,  as  coffee  as- 
sumes the  name  of  Rio,  the  port  in  Brazil  from  which  it  is 
exported. 

My  object  in  making  this  detour  from  the  usual  route  bv 


112  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Brindisi  to  the  East  was  to  gather  facts  from  personal  ob- 
servation in  Sicily  and  Malta  concerning  the  cultivation  and 
production  of  tropical  fruits  that  belong  to  the  citrus  fam- 
ily. Oranges  and  lemons  must  have  been  introduced  here 
from  the  East  long  before  the  discovery  of  America.  From 
here  the  seed  was  distributed  along  the  Mediterranean  coast 
toward  the  south-west  as  far  as  Spain.  The  species — a  sour 
variety  known  as  bigarade — when  it  reached  Spain  was 
called  Seville.  It  is  probable  the  Spaniards  carried  the 
seed  from  Spain  to  Florida,  where  it  was  scattered  along  its 
coast  and  lakes  on  the  rich  hummock  lands  by  the  Indians, 
which  supposition  may  account  for  the  wild  groves  found 
in  that  State.  The  sweet  orange  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  known  in  Europe  at  this  time.  It  was  about  the  year 
1600  when  the  sweet  orange  appeared  here ;  and  from  here 
it  traveled  in  the  same  direction  the  sour  variety  had 
taken. 

This  beautiful  island  has  been  converted  into  a  tropical 
garden,  with  almost  every  known  variety  of  fruit  growing 
to  perfection.  Of  course  there  are  many  of  these  adapted 
to  cultivation  which  are  not  cultivated.  The  oranges  and 
lemons,  proving  more  profitable,  have  supplanted  them ;  and 
lemons,  being  given  preference,  have  nearly  superseded  or- 
ange culture  in  Sicily.  As  the  planting,  cultivation,  ma- 
nuring, etc.,  are  the  same,  however,  my  remarks  will,  apply 
to  one  as  well  as  the  other.  The  most  of  the  oranges  ex- 
ported from  Messina  are  grown  on  the  Italian  side  of  the 
narrow  strait  that  divides  the  island  from  the  main-land,  as 
I  have  already  stated.  The  following  valuable  information 
was  given  me  by  my  bankers  in  Messina,  Messrs.  Callier  & 
Bro.,  who  are  practical  fruit-growers  themselves  near  this 
charming  city.  They  first  reviewed  the  history  of  orange 
culture  for  the  past  fifteen  years:  the  overproduction,  de- 
cline in  prices,  neglect  of  the  groves,  irrigation,  gum  dis- 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily. 


ease,  charbon,  etc.,  and  the  remedies  for  the  same  ;  then  the 
cost  of  gathering,  packing,  boxing,  and  shipping,  the  mode 
of  cultivation,  manuring,  and  farming  on  shares.  These 
gentlemen  informed  me  that  fifteen  years  ago  the  cogimia, 
or  gum  disease,  that  came  near  destroying  the  finest  lemon- 
groves  in  Sicily  and  caused  immense  loss  to  the  proprietors, 
was  finally  arrested  by  grafting  the  lemon  on  the  sour  or- 
ange stock.  The  charbon  was  another  serious  trouble,  but 
appeared  to  yield  to  high  culture  and  animal  manure.  The 
distance  between  the  trees  varies  in  different  groves  —  eight 
by  ten,  twelve  by  sixteen,  and  eighteen  by  twenty  feet  apart. 
Every  two  years  the  trees  are  fertilized  with  animal  manure, 
notwithstanding  the  apparent  inexhaustible  fertility  of  the 
soil.  It  is  considered  a  single  crop  of  lemons  or  oranges 
here  removes  a  large  per  cent,  of  the  organic  and  mineral 
elements  of  the  soil,  which  must  be  restored  by  artificial 
means.  The  soil  is  calcareous  and  sandy  around  Messina, 
but  along  the  sea-shore  it  is  generally  alluvial.  On  the 
mountain-slopes,  terracing  and  the  cost  of  transporting  the 
manure  on  donkeys  add  largely  to  the  cost  of  production.  I 
could  not  obtain  any  figures  on  the  cost  of  land,  planting, 
and  irrigation  ;  but  from  my  own  supposition  it  amounts  to 
double  the  cost  in  Florida,  and  on  the  mountains  treble. 
Competition  at  one  time  became  so  great  that  overproduc- 
tion finally  ensued,  and  the  prices  became  so  low  that  some 
years  the  crops  did  not  bear  shipment.  Messrs.  Callier  & 
Bro.  informed  me  that  fruit  has  declined  very  rapidly  the 
past  few  years  on  account  of  competition  in  America,  prin- 
cipally from  Florida  and  Louisiana,  where  they  heard  that 
thousands  of  young  groves  were  coming  into  bearing.  The 
result  is  that  the  groves  once  so  productive  have  ceased  to 
be  remunerative,  while  their  cultivation  is  being  sadly  neg- 
lected, and  many  are  even  abandoned.  My  observations 
have  to  some  extent  confirmed  this  gloomy  picture  in  Sicily. 


114  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

In  the  month  of  March  I  found  the  trees  still  laden  with 
fruit  as  far  down  the  coast  as  Catania,  forty  miles  below 
Messina.  I  saw  many  abandoned  wheels  and  canals  for 
raising  the  water,  many  groves  in  weeds  and  overgrown 
with  underbrush.  The  most  thrifty  groves  of  lemons  were 
irrigated  by  drawing  up  the  dirt  into  ridges  to  hold  the 
scanty  rain-fall. 

FARMING  ON  SHARES 

is  extensively  practiced  in  Sicily.  About  one-third  to  one- 
half  of  the  crop  is  given,  the  renter  cultivating  and  paying 
all  expenses.  When  wages  are  paid,  two  to  three  lires  per 
day  and  wine — say  forty  to  fifty  cents — is  the  price.  The 
gathering  and  packing  do  not  differ  materially  from  the 
Florida  method.  The  entire  cost  of  gathering,  boxing,  and 
delivery  in  Messina,  from  the  groves  in  the  country,  in 
1884  (this  year),  is  eleven  francs,  or  two  dollars  and  twenty 
cents,  for  one  thousand  and  forty  lemons.  This  is  less  than 
one-quarter  of  a  cent  each.  It  is  the  rule  before  shipping 
to  examine  every  box  of  oranges  and  lemons,  wrap  in  tissue- 
paper,  and  repack  one  by  one.  The  August  and  September 
fruit  is  gathered  green,  but  the  October  and  November 
fruit  is  the  best  for  shipping.  It  will  keep  from  eight  to 
nine  months,  and  the  trees  bear  every  month  in  the  year. 
They  have  nurseries  here  like  we  have  in  Florida— the 
orange-seed  being  planted,  and  when  the  trees  are  two  to 
three  years  old,  budded  with  the  lemon ;  the  same  process 
for  growing  oranges.  I  do  not  think  the  yield  is  so  great 
as  in  Florida:  five  hundred  to  one  thousand  lemons  or 
oranges  probably  is  the  average  in  a  well-cultivated  grove. 
About  five  cents  per  dozen  in  Messina  is  the  price  for  choice 
fruit.  When  a  great  surplus  is  left  on  the  markets  here,  it 
is  quartered  and  shipped,  as  I  have  stated,  in  pickle,  for  the 
manufacture  of  citric  acid.  A  great  deal  of  fruit  is  fed  to 
stock.  They  work  donkeys  and  large  fine  oxen,  generally 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  115 


white,  in  the  cultivation  of  the  groves  and  in  moving  the 
crop  to  market. 

I  might  spend  days  in  Messina,  rambling  through  its  old 
cathedrals,  along  the  quay,  looking  at  the  shipping,  or  up 
through  the  terraced  gardens  that  adorn  the  amphitheater 
of  hills  that  rise  above  the  city.  The  Messinians  show  an 
autograph  letter  containing  a  lock  of  the  Virgin  Mary's 
hair.  It  would  be  unsafe  to  question  this,  if  you  desired  to 
retain  their  good-will.  I  do  not  doubt  they  had  a  bit  of 
the  true  cross  and  a  few  of  those  old  nails  laid  away.  There 
must  be  nearly  a  keg  of  them  scattered  through  Rome,  Mil- 
an, Naples,  Genoa,  and  in  other  parts  of  Europe. 

If  we  were  to  go  to  Malta  by  sea,  we  would  pass  through 
the  Straits  of  Messina  (only  two  miles  wide)  that  divide 
Italy  from  Sicily.  But  we  want  to  see  Catania,  Mt.  Etna, 
Augusta,  and  Syracuse.  We  glide  down  the  shores  of  the 
Ionian  Sea,  through  miles  of  lemon  and  orange  groves, 
orchards  of  figs,  pomegranates,  almonds,  and  olives ;  under 
the  shadow  of  majestic  mountains,  whose  sloping  sides  are 
covered  with  cactus,  trees  of  cactus  growing  out  of  its  crev- 
ices and  rugged  sides  of  solid  rock ;  and  away  in  the  dis- 
tance behold  Etna,  rising  twelve  thousand  feet  high,  all 
mantled  with  snow.  As  we  approach  Catania,  a  beautiful 
city  that  slumbers  at  its  base,  I  see  great  fields  of  lava 
stretching  away  for  miles  up  the  mountain-slopes*  The 
stone  has  been  removed  and  made  into  walls,  around  gar- 
dens of  delicious  fruit.  But  thousands  of  acres  still  remain 
covered  with  scoriae  and  stone,  which  if  removed  could  be 
converted  into  vineyards  and  groves.  Lava,  once  disinte- 
grated, becomes  the  richest  soil  on  earth.  It  is  eleven  miles 
up  to  the  summit  of  snowy  Etna,  which  centuries  ago  poured 
its  resistless  torrents  of  death  and  woe  down  to  the  very 
edge  of  the  Ionian  Sea.  Our  railroad  passed  through  great 
fields  and  miles  of  this  lava-stone.  We  change  cars  at  Ca- 


116  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

tania  for  Syracuse.  If  we  stroll  through  the  city,  a  little 
distance  away  we  behold  beautiful  streets  paved  with  lava, 
houses  built  of  lava,  their  furniture  and  toys  of  lava,  and 
lava  wherever  you  look  or  go.  Sicily  is  a  wonderful  island. 
No  country  is  richer  in  variety  or  more  valuable  in  the 
character  of  its  productions.  It  is  believed  our  Indian 
corn  is  a  native  of  this  island.  It  is  called  maize  here,  and 
is  one  of  Catania's  largest  exports.*  Besides  corn,  olive-oil, 
oranges,  figs,  lemons,  Japan  plums,  almonds,  silk,  rags,  rice. 
beans,  pulse,  manna,  flax,  hemp,  rice-liquor,  potatoes,  wine, 
and  sulphur,  are  largely  exported.  Sulphur  is  mined  at 
the  foot  of  Etna,  where  it  is  loaded  on  cars  in  great  blocks, 
then  transported  from  the  shore,  in  barges,  to  ships  lying  in 
the  open  roadstead.  My  Russian  friend  was  supplied  here. 

We  see  many  goats  and  large  herds  of  cattle  between 
Catania  and  Augusta,  grazing  among  the  limestone  rocks 
that  crop  out,  and  on  the  sides  of  steep  hills.  Cactus,  in 
Sicily,  grows  as  tall  as  trees.  Most  of  the  lands  are  in 
grass,  always  verdant,  and  we  do  not  see  much  more  culti- 
vation until  we  approach  our  destination.  The  road  skirts 
the  sea-shore  the  entire  distance  to  Syracuse. 

This  old  town  is  of  Greek  origin,  celebrated  as  the  birth- 
place of  Archimides  and  Theocritus.  I  came  by  here  to 
visit  their  tombs,  to  see  the  old  catacombs,  the  remains  of 
two  Greek  theaters  twenty-five  hundred  years  old,  the  Ear 
of  Dionysius,  the  Temple  of  Minerva,  and  several  other  great 
sights.  On  the  plaza  I  saw  an  old  temple  with  its  ancient 
columns  and  fine  old  capitals  worked  into  a  new  building 
called  the  Cathedral.  It  was  a  pagan  temple  once  dedi- 
cated to  the  worship  of  the  goddess  Minerva.  Near  by  I 
saw  a  collection  of  Grecian  sculpture  and  antiquities  that 
had  been  rescued  from  the  Arcadina.  There  were  many 
exquisite  Muses,  Minervas,  Junos,  majestic  Herculeses 
and  Jupiters,  with  dismembered  arms,  broken  skulls,  busts 

*  Here  are  the  remains  of  an  amphitheater  larger  than  the  Colosseum  at 
Rome. 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  117 

and  symmetrical  figures,  grouped  about  in  this  old  build- 
ing. 

The  famous  fountain  of  Arethusa,  once  the  glory  of  Syr- 
acuse, is  now  degraded  into  a  wash-tub. 

Near  by  I  explored  the  Catacomb  of  Arcadina,  cut  in 
the  solid  rock  much  like  those  on  the  Appian  Way,  at 
Rome.  Here  is  the  old  prison,  the  famous  Latonise,  in 
which  the  Syracusans  confined  as  prisoners  seven  thousand 
Greeks  who  came  to  subjugate  them.  Those  who  escaped 
death  were  sold  into  slavery.  Jealousy  among  the  Greeks 
removed  Alcibiades  from  the  head  of  the  expedition,  which 
resulted  in  failure,  several  hundred  years  before  Christ 
was  born.  Then  the  Romans,  two  hundred  years  before 
Christ,  made  the  most  celebrated  siege  in  ancient  history, 
finally  capturing  the  city  through  the  treachery  of  one  of 
the  Syracusan  generals.  It  was  during  this  siege  Archime- 
des constructed  the  most  powerful  machines,  which,  with  its 
fine  fortifications,  never  could  have  been  taken  but  for  the 
treason  of  one  of  his  generals.  The  fine  old  walls,  forty 
feet  high,  with  deep  moats,  yet  look  quite  formidable. 

There  were  two  stone  columns,  with  heavy  bands  of  iron 
around  them,  standing  in  solitude  on  an  open  square  in  an 
old  street — site  of  another  ancient  temple — and  the  Temple 
of  Diana.  I  went  out  several  miles  with  a  guide  who  could 
only  make  signs  to  visit  "  Dionysius's  Ear,"  a  great  cavern 
in  a  solid  rock,  formed  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  S.  Along 
the  walls  of  this  prison  runs  a  groove  which  collects  the 
sounds  of  the  voice.  The  old  tyrant  used  to  put  his  ear  to 
this  groove  to  see  if  his  suspicions  of  suspected.persons  were 
correct  or  not.  My  boy  threw  a  stone  at  the  door,  and  the 
echo  that  rolled  away  was  perfectly  grand.  It  lasted  for 
several  minutes — or,  a  long  time.  I  saw  an  old  theater 
close  by  that  was  connected  by  a  subterranean  passage  with 
the  sea,  like  the  one  described  in  Pompeii. 


118  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

There  were  four  people  in  Syracuse  who  could  speak  En- 
glish. Of  these,  one  was  an  Englishman,  and  two  of  the 
others  were  women — Italians,  probably.  I  met  no  foreign- 
ers in  Sicily  after  leaving  Messina.  I  saw  a  half  dozen  or 
more  familiar  faces  that  were  purely  American  in  all  their 
characteristics.  It  made  me  happy  even  to  see  American 
sewing-machines  abroad.  If  they  could  have  talked,  they 
would  have  told  me  a  story  on  these  Sicilians.  It  seems 
every  other  man  or  woman  you  meet  is  a  count  or  duchess 
or  some  sort  of  a  nobleman.  This  country  is  as  badly  af- 
flicted with  loud-sounding  titles  as  Georgia.  You  could 
scarcely  throw  a  rock  in  Sicily  or  Italy  without  hitting  a 
count. 

All  night  long  we  steamed  due  south  on  a  "  Rubitino," 
which  brought  us  next  morning  under  a  gigantic  rock,  al- 
most perpendicular,  above  which  I  saw  the  sign  of  "John 
Smith  &  Son,  Bible  House,"  and  other  familiar  names  in 
English.  I  knew  it  was  Malta — another  Gibraltar — a  great 
rock  rising  out  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  We  anchored 
in  the  roadstead,  then  took  a  little  boat  for  shore.  I  made 
a  contract  with  my  boatmen.  I  heard  the  Maltese  were 
"full  of  fire  and  endowed  with  a  penetrating  imagination." 
Then  I  made  a  contract  with  the  baggage-boy.  The  boat 
landed.  Up  a  long  flight  of  broad  stone  steps,  then  up  an- 
other lofty  flight,  and  we  are  soon  on  the  public  square  of 
Valetta.  Hotel  Angleterre ;  we  will  stop  here.  That  pi- 
rate !  he  asked  me  three  times  more  than  we  contracted  for. 
I  then  understood  what  "  penetrating  imagination  "  meant. 

Much  of , the  soil  on  the  island  has  been  brought  from 
Sicily.  In  ancient  times  Malta  is  said  to  have  supported 
a  considerable  population.  It  is  of  Phenician  origin.  In 
the  year  3620  A.M.,  it  was  taken  by  Hannibal,  the  famous 
Carthaginian  general,  whose  tomb  may  be  visited  at  Ben 
Ghisa,  not  far  distant.  Like  Gibraltar,  Malta  is  well 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  119 

nigh  impregnable.  The  fortifications  are  very  strong,  and 
their  guns  could  rake  an  enemy  from  nearly  every  approach 
by  sea.  It  belongs  to  the  English,  and  during  the  winter 
months  it  is  crowded  with  tourists — nearly  all  from  the 
British  Isles.  It  is  a  great  coaling-station  for  steamers  go- 
ing East  and  returning  homeward.  Ships  call  here  every 
day  or  two,  bound  to  India,  Ceylon,  Australia,  China,  and 
Japan.  Its  beautiful  thoroughfares  and  fine  promenades 
are  thronged  by  these  arrivals  and  departures  of  great 
steamers.  You  will  find  the  English  in  all  branches  and 
departments  of  trade ;  especially  in  the  shipping,  banking, 
and  mercantile  houses  do  they  predominate.  Many  of  the 
hotels  are  also  conducted  by  the  English;  but  the  Angle- 
terre  is  the  leading  house  among  the  aristocratic  classes. 
I  met  here  several  gentlemen  and  ladies  with  whom  I  had 
parted  in  Naples  and  Messina.  The  English  snob,  the 
blight  of  his  nation,  may  also  be  found  in  Malta.  I  have 
not  yet  met  the  spider-legged  dude.  I  hope  I  may  be  spared 
that  calamity.  The  true  nobility  of  England  are  a  high- 
cultured  class  of  gentlemen  in  every  sense  their  title  con- 
veys. But  there  are  a  few  sons  of  rich  men,  without  titles, 
who  affect  more  airs  than  any  marquis,  baronet,  or  duke 
you  may  meet. 

The  first  morning  we  strolled  through  the  market.  I  had 
employed  for  a  guide  a  retired  English  sailor,  an  old  man, 
whom  for  convenience  I  call  "  Beppo."  He  was  a  native  of 
the  island,  and  was  thoroughly  familiar  with  Valetta  and 
other  cities  of  Malta. 

It  was  a  sight  worth  seeing.  Every  nation  seemed  to  be 
represented.  The  natives  of  Morocco,  Tunis,  and  Algiers, 
the  Maltese,  Sicilians,  and  Arabs  from  Alexandria,  con- 
trasted strangely  with  the  Europeans  or  English  population. 
There  were  turbaned  heads,  fezes  and  caps;  long  flowing 
gowns  and  white  robes ;  baggy  trousers,  gathered  about  their 


120  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

knees ;  and  an  indescribable  jargon  of  languages,  to  be  seen 
and  heard.  There  were  people  with  white,  black,  brown, 
and  yellow  complexions.  The  Turk  and  Greek  make  up 
the  tout  ensemble. 

The  fattest  joints  of  beef  and  mutton,  the  finest  fruits  and 
vegetables  in  endless  variety,  fish,  oysters,  eggs,  and  poultry, 
were  here  in  profusion. 

I  was  interested  in  the  oranges,  of  which  there  was  a 
grand  display,  and  very  cheap — one  dozen  for  two  and 
half-penny,  five  cents.  The  egg,  blood,  and  Tangerene,  were 
the  three  varieties  I  examined.  All  this  fruit  was  remark- 
ably bright  and  delicious  in  flavor.  The  egg  is  a  perfect 
beauty;  but  the  blood-orange,  a  pretty  oval,  attracted  my 
attention  on  account  of  its  red  pulp  and  juice  that  flowed 
or  streamed  out  like  blood.  The  Tangereue,  or  glove- 
orange,  is  identically  the  species  I  have  seen  in  Florida. 
There  is  no  difference.  A  good  deal  of  this  fruit  and  all 
the  vegetables  are  grown  on  the  island  around  Malta, 
though  there  is  considerable  communication  with  Tan- 
giers,  Algiers,  and  Morocco,  which  you  can  almost  or  quite 
see  from  the  heights  of  Citta  Vecchia,  near  Malta ;  and  of  a 
clear  day  even  the  shores  of  Sicily  are  visible  to  the  north. 

"You  must  do  the  Church  of  St.  John  and  the  Palace  of 
the  Grand  Master,"  observed  Beppo.  "  They  are  the  great 
sights  of  Malta." 

The  interior  of  the  church  is  certainly  grand,  beyond  any 
conception  I  had  formed  of  its  magnificence.  There  is  no 
finer  cathedral  in  Europe.  The  rich  mosaics  in  marble, 
sculpture,  frescoes,  chapels,  and  statuary  are  worthy  of  in- 
tense study  and  the  highest  admiration.  I  saw  one  devotee 
going  through  the  rosary  and  others  bowing  before  the  Vir- 
gin Mary.  The  Catholic  is  the  prevailing  religion. 

The  palace  contains  the  armor,  courts  of  mail,  weapons, 
-and  numerous  trophies  of  the  Knights  of  Malta.  A  rnus- 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  121 

ket-ball  fired  at  sixty  yards  failed  to  penetrate  one  of  these 
armors. 

I  have  always  thought  of  Malta  in  connection  with  its 
cats  and  dogs.  It  is  also  celebrated  for  its  rich  black  lace. 
Last  night  I  heard  a  serenade  on  the  house-tops  near  by. 
It  was  as  convivial  as  any  I  ever  listened  to  in  Georgia.  In 
the  morning  I  looked  for  the  combatants.  I  found  yellow, 
white,  spotted,  and  black  cats,  of  immense  size,  with  broad 
tails.  But  I  hear  the  cats,  like  the  Maltese  dogs,  have 
greatly  degenerated.  Every  day  a  man  has  worried  me  on 
the  streets  with  the  same  little  white  shaggy  poodle — price, 
fifteen  dollars.  He  carried  it  on  his  arms  under  his  cloak. 

Beppo  has  immense  gulliblity  and  rare  bits  of  good  hu- 
mor. He  makes  me  laugh  when  I  want  to  be  silent,  and 
often  throws  me  off  my  dignity.  We  were  walking  un- 
der the  Grand  Arcade  this  morning,  near  the  summit  of 
those  great  flights  of  stone  steps,  when  I  motioned  to  a  boot- 
black. Nearly  a  dozen  jumped  at  my  shoes,  scrambling  for 
the  job.  It  required  the  interference  of  the  police  to  re- 
store order.  Beppo  became  greatly  enraged.  He  was 
much  excited,  and  grew  highly  indignant  over  this  out- 
rage. You  see,  I  employed  him  to  do  my  fighting  and  pro- 
tect me  against  all  impositions.  You  must  observe,  I  em- 
ploy my  guides  like  I  do  my  horses,  when  traveling — for 
their  combination  qualities.  I  get  all  out  of  them  I  can. 

"  What  is  the  matter,  Beppo  ?  You  seem  to  have  your 
feelings  hurt.' '  "Yes,  sir.  I  hate  to  see  a  gentleman  in  my 
care  insulted.  See  here,  if  the  Government  don't  put  a 
stop  to  all  this  we  are  a  'ruined  community.'"  "Stop 
what?"  says  I.  "  Why,  these  boys  and  girls  marrying.  In 
ten  years  ten  children !  I  never  see  the  like  afore." 

I  have  met  the  editor  of  the  Malta  News*  Gol.  Harris,  a 
brilliant,  genial  fellow,  with  a  soul  as  big  as  the  rock  we 
stand  on.  He  is  a  literary  gentleman  of  large  culture  and 


122  Around  the  World  in  1884.  ^ 

once  of  extensive  fortune ;  but  reverses  came ;  his  charm- 
ing wife  lingered  by  his  side  and  at  last  died,  leaving  deso- 
late and  alone  a  fond  husband  in  this  far-off  land.  Harris 
is  an  American  by  birth,  for  many  years  an  able  journal- 
ist in  the  city  of  New  York;  from  which  place  he  was 
appointed  by  the  Government  to  a  consulate  abroad.  He 
showed  me  a  rare  collection  of  curios  in  his  drawing-room, 
among  the  number  an  autograph  letter  of  Alexander  H. 
Stephens,  which  I  recognized.  Harris  knew  all  the  nobility 
on  the  island,  and  the  governor  and  his  staff,  whom  he 
pointed  out  one  evening  riding  by  us.  The  old  gentleman, 
well  up  in  the  seventies,  rode  as  erect  as  a  boy  of  sixteen, 
with  a  squint  look  out  of  one  eye,  and  a  dignified  reserve. 
It  is  remarkable  how  well-preserved  these  English  people 
are.  There  are  many  members  of  Parliament  over  sixty- 
five  and  seventy. 

I  always  had  an  ambitious  desire  to  own  a  mummy — an 
Egyptian  relic  of  three  thousand  years.  Few  people,  I  im- 
agine, can  own  such  a  valuable  piece  of  property. 

One  day  we  were  strolling  along  the  Broadway  of  Va- 
letta,  returning  from  the  railroad  station,  and  Beppo  says : 
"  Come  here !  Curio-shop !  Mummy ! "  Pointing  his  fingei 
toward  a  top  shelf:  "You  see  him  standing  up  there?" 
"  Yes."  "  You  observe  his  face  half  concealed  ?  "  "  Yes." 
I  had  just  thought  of  Mark  Twain,  and  was  about  to  ask 
Beppo  "  if  he  was  dead,"  when  he  cast  a  sly  glance  around 
and  said,  "  You  can  buy  that  mummy."  "  How  old  do  you 
suppose  the  old  gentleman  is?  Three  or  four  thousand? 
Call  the  landlord."  Beppo  shouted.  Presently  an  old 
fossil  who  looked  a  good  deal  like  the  mummy  came  creeping 
down  the  steps.  He  spoke  a  strange  language.  I  turned 
to  my  guide,  mquiring  what  tongue  that  was.  "Maltese, 
sir."  "Well,  Beppo,  conduct  the  negotiation."  "Gentle- 
man wants  to  buy  the  mummy.  How  much?"  Then  we 


From  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  123 

all  look  up  at  that  venerable  countenance.  "Ten  pounds, 
and  you  take  all;  or  seven  pounds  and  divide,"  replied 
Beppo.  It  seems  it  was  a  custom  among  the  Egyptians  to 
conceal  valuables  in  the  bodies  of  their  dead.  Here  was  the 
trouble.  There  must  be  a  surgical  operation  performed  if 
I  pay  him  thirty-five  dollars,  or  I  should  have  him  at  fifty 
dollars  unimpaired.  But  another  dilemma  arose  that  gave 
me  more  trouble.  Should  I  take  him  around  the  world 
with  me?  I  might  be  arrested  in  San  Francisco  for  mur- 
der or  kidnapping.  There  was  another  alternative  left — 
really  the  only  feasible  project  presented ;  that  was,  to  em- 
ploy an  Atlanta  (Ga.)  medical  student  to  assist  in  his  re- 
moval. 

Since  I  met  the  governor  and  that "  English  snob,"  I  am 
beginning  to  be  a  little  more  careful  "  what  kind  of  people 
I  associate  with." 

Harris  knows  all  the  dukes,  baronets,  marquises,  princes, 
and  princesses  on  the  island,  in  several  nationalities.  To- 
day he  introduced  me  to  a  distinguished  author  and  bar- 
rister, Senor .  He  begged  me  to  accept  a  copy  of  his  last 

work,  as  a  mark  of  his  regard.  This  is  in  the  Italian  or 
Spanish  language.  As  I  can  read  neither,  I  shall  place 
this  book  on  the  top  shelf  of  my  library,  as  an  "  honorary 
member,"  in  a  conspicuous  position. 

Then  Harris  would  have  me  to  know  his  friend  the  mar- 
quis— particularly  anxious  that  I  should  meet  so  distin- 
guished a  personage.  He  introduced  this  one  to  me  by 
telephone.  We  conversed  in  several  languages;  finally  in 
English,  as  we  both  seemed  to  understand  that  best.  The 
marquis  extended  a  most  cordial  invitation  to  call  on  him. 
I  replied,  in  broken  English,  I  very  much  regretted  I  was 
about  to  leave  for  Alexandria.  Then  he  responded,  ex- 
pressing his  sincere  disappointment  that  I  should  leave 
Malta  without  seeing  him.  Then  I  replied  it  would  have 


124  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

given  me  great  pleasure  to  pay  the  marquis  my  respects 
of  distinguished  consideration,  "but  my  ship  was  waiting." 
I  should  depart  for  Alexandria.  We  should  have  called 
on  the  governor,  probably,  but  our  time  was  too  limited. 

I  owe  all  of  my  renown  and  celebrity  in  Malta  to 
Harris.  He  would  always  introduce  me  by  some  distin- 
guished title;  and  among  a  people  like  the  Maltese,  where 
titles  are  held  in  such  veneration,  it  was  really  amusing.  I 
am  sorry  he  did  not  accompany  me  through  Italy  and  Sic- 
ily. He  spoke  several  languages. 

My  constant  contact  with  the  nobility  had  compelled  me 
to  make  some  important  additions  to  my  wardrobe.  I  must 
have  a  new  suit,  a  dress  suit  for  evening  receptions  and 
promenades.  A  conscious  sense  of  responsibility,  that  con- 
ventional etiquette  had  recently  imposed,  made  the  demand 
imperative;  so  I  hurried  down  to  my  English  tailor,  to  find 
my  trousers  two  inches  too  short  and  my  coat  gradually  re- 
ceding. 

I  wanted  to  visit  the  old  city  of  Medina  (Citta  Vecchia), 
fifteen  minutes  by  rail,  from  whose  lofty  heights  I  could  see 
the  coasts  of  Africa  and  Sicily.  This  is  the  only  railroad  in 
Malta.  How  delighted  I  should  have  been  to  explore  the 
Grotto  of  St.  Paul,  where  a  bit  of  the  true  cross,  the  bones 
of  half  a  dozen  apostles,  and  saints  without  number,  are 
shown — presented  by  the  Popes  of  Kome!  They  have  a 
drop  of  the  Virgin's  milk,  too.  Jes-so!  In  those  old  days 
the  city  bore  the  same  name  as  this  island,  Melita. 

Beppo  accompanied  me  to  the  "  Persian,"  to  see  that  my 
baggage  was  all  on  carefully,  and  to  prevent  any  more  "  pen- 
etrating imaginations"  being  indulged  in.  Faithful  old 
guide!  I  certainly  had  cause  for  congratulation,  when  I 
remember  Mr.  Prime's  account  of  his  visit  to  Malta,  some 
ago. 

We  plunged  down  the  steep,  narrow  streets  to  the  land- 


±  rom  Naples  to  Messina,  Sicily.  v     125 

ing-place,  overturning  half  a  dozen  commissionaires,  each 
of  whom  swore  he  was  the  man  that  said  "Good- morning" 
the  day  previous,  and  therefore  entitled  to  five  francs.  You 
need  not  imagine  you  will  land  in  Malta  without  paying 
four  times  for  it.  Beppo  bowed  gratefully  and  waved  his  hat 
as  our  great  ship  turned  her  prow  toward  Alexandria. 

I  have  seen  few  ships  or  gannets  since  leaving  Malta. 
Our  bearing  is  south-east  by  east,  over  the  calm,  beautiful 
Mediterranean  Sea.  Very  low  tides;  no  seasickness.  How 
I  love  the  grand  swell  of  the  ocean!  It  has  for  me  a 
charm  indescribable.  Its  vast  expanse  is  like  God's  love — it 
rolls  all  around  the  world. 

Capt.  McConkey  has  kindly  yielded  me  his  state-room  for 
the  voyage,  and  shown  me  much  kindness.  In  conversa- 
tion he  has  given  a  few  interesting  facts  concerning  volca- 
noes, etc.,  by  which  I  am  enabled  to  make  a  comparative 
statement. 

Vesuvius  has  two  cones,  separated  by  a  little  valley 
known  as  Atrio  del  Cavallo ;  Mt.  Somma  being  3,630  feet 
high — now  extinct.  The  first  eruption  was  in  the  year  79, 
when  it  overwhelmed  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum.  The 
active  cone  was  originally  4,100  feet  high,  but  the  upper 
portion  has  been  blown  off.  Mt.  Vesuvius  is  thirty  miles 
in  circumference. 

Mt.  Etna,  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  south  in  Sicily, 
is  eighty-seven  miles  in  circumference  and  10,880  feet  high — 
always  covered  with  snow.  Four  hundred  years  ago,  when 
in  eruption,  Etna  answered  back  to  Vesuvius  in  thunder- 
tones.  The  first  eruption  of  Etna  occurred  475  B.C.  Capt. 
McConkey  once  smelled  sulphur  sixty  miles  away,  and 
stopped  his  ship,  supposing  he  was  near  the  shore.  In  1693 
fifty  thousand  people  perished  in  Catania,  but  those  re- 
maining rebuilt  the  city. 

Concerning  the  exports  of  Egypt,  the  Captain  assured 


126 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


In  Egypt — Alexandria  and  Cairo.  127 

me,  he  once  loaded  with  nine  hundred  tons  of  onions,  and 
left  five  or  six  other  vessels  loading,  at  the  same  time,  for 
Liverpool  and  other  ports. 

We  left  Malta  on  the  8th  of  March,  and  in  three  days  we 
sighted  the  coast-line,  and  soon  after  Alexandria — 816  miles 
run.  

CHAPTER  X. 

IN  EGYPT — ALEXANDRIA  AND  CAIRO. 
'""PHE  low  coast-line  we  saw  is  a  range  of  sand-hills.  We 
L  see  wind-mills,  with  their  long  arms  turning  lazily 
around;  lofty  palms,  waving  their  feathery  plumes;  forts, 
mosques,  minarets,  and  Pompey's  Pillar,  in  a  sweeping  vis- 
ion along  the  low  sand-hills. 

We  anchor  in  the  harbor,  protected  by  a  breakwater  and 
crowded  with  shipping  of  every  nation.  Here  are  English, 
American,  Italian,  German,  Russian,  Turkish,  and  French 
men-of-war,  bristling  with  grinning  guns — among  the  num- 
ber the  "  Inflexible,"  a  powerful  English  frigate  that  assisted 
in  the  bombardment  here  three  years  ago.  The  coast  bat- 
teries were  razed  to  the  ground.  They  are  still  a  desolate 
ruin.  All  the  European  quarter  of  the  city,  nearly,  was 
destroyed — burned  by  the  retreating  rebels  or  government 
troops.  Many  shell  exploded  in  the  houses,  destroying  the 
finest  portion  of  the  city,  in  the  terrific  bombardment.  Re- 
building progresses  slowly,  and  it  will  be  many  years,  prob- 
ably, with  a  bankrupt  government,  before  the  former  splen- 
dor and  modern  architecture  of  Alexandria  will  be  restored. 
Many  of  its  streets  rivaled  even  Paris  in  stately  buildings, 
before  the  war. 

Before  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal,  this  route  by  Cairo 
to  Suez  was  the  great  overland  thoroughfare  to  India,  the 
far  East,  and  Australia. 

When  we  reached  the  shore  we  found  our  passport  was 


128  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

demanded  for  the  first  time.  But  a  franc  would  have  car- 
ried us  through.  They  hunted  for  gunpowder,  pistols,  to- 
bacco, and  other  seditious  articles.  But  we  assured  the 
officials  of  our  good  intentions,  and  that  we  were  only  on  a 
pleasure  tour. 

Then  the  little  Arab  boys  squared  around  their  little 
donkeys,  no  taller  than  themselves,  for  passengers.  They 
clamored,  hallooed,  and  screamed,  all  in  good  humor.  I 
like  the  donkey ;  he  never  gets  tired,  and  never  skeers;  he  is 
good-natured,  but  self-opinionated. 

What  a  scene!  If  you  have  read  the  "Tales  of  the 
Arabian  Nights,"  that  filled  your  mind  with  pretty  pictures 
of  dream-land  and  Oriental  splendor,  of  voluptuous  life,  com- 
fort, ease,  and  pleasure,  roses  and  gorgeous-colored  flowers, 
let  me  beg  you  to  dispel  such  illusions.  They  are  myths 
that  belong  to  the  past.  Picture  the  Arab  in  a  white  gown, 
with  yards  of  white  cloth  wound  around  his  head  for  a 
turban ;  the  donkey-boy  in  his  blouse,  or  the  poor  women, 
bearing  jugs,  jars,  and  baskets  on  their  heads,  with  children 
astride  the  shoulder,  in  poverty  and  rags,  and  you  have  a 
glimpse  of  the  Orient. 

Once  Alexandria  boasted  of  half -a  million  people  and 
four  thousand  palaces,  being  the  home  of  the  most  eminent 
scholars,  and  claiming  the  finest  library  in  the  world.  Here 
the  Septuagint  translation  of  the  Scriptures  into  Greek  was 
made;  here  the  Ptolemies  reigned  in  the  zenith  of  their 
powrer,  which  ended  with  the  voluptuous  queen  of  beauty, 
Cleopatra. 

I  saw  the  site  where  the  ancient  Pharos  stood,  the  first 
light-house  ever  built  in  the  world.  We  saw  Pompey's  Pil- 
lar long  before  we  reached  the  city,  as  it  rose  in  majestic 
beaut}7  nearly  a  hundred  feet  high.  It  was  erected  in  hon- 
or of  Diocletian,  who  captured  Alexandria  nearly  seventeen 
hundred  years  ago. 


In  Egypt — Alexandria  and  Cairo.  129 

Almost  every  known  nation  is  represented  on  the  sign- 
boards in  front  along  the  streets  of  the  city.  In  one  part 
you  observe  French,  another  street  Greek,  a  third  Italian, 
a  fourth  Arab,  etc.  The  business  is  controlled  by  the  Greek 
merchants,  notwithstanding  the  English  and  French  exer- 
cise a  powerful  influence  on  its  foreign  commerce.  The 
present  population  exceeds  two  hundred  thousand. 

Ptolemy  built  the  Pharos,  which  was  justly  accounted  one 
of  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world.  It  stood  on  a  point  of 
land  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  jutting  out  into  the  sea,  where 
the  present  light-house  now  stands.  It  was  built  of  marble 
and  white  stone,  diminishing  toward  the  top,  as  it  towered 
away  many  stories  high.  It  was  said  a  chariot  could  be 
driven  up  the  marble  stair-way  that  led  to  the  top.  Its 
height  was  512  English  feet.  Torches  were  burned  in  the 
upper  chambers,  which  threw  a  light  twenty-nine  and  a 
half  miles  distant  on  the  sea.  It  was  erected  in  the  year 
285  B.C.  Alexander  the  Great  founded  the  city  forty-seven 
years  before  this  date.  He  is  buried  here.  The  library, 
containing  the  most  valuable  manuscripts  on  parchments 
relating  to  the  early  history  of  the  East,  was  destroyed  hun- 
dreds of  years  afterward  by  the  Saracens,  under  Caliph 
Omar.  Think  of  Mark  Antony,  Caesar,  Cleopatra,  Pompey, 
and  Euclid  having  once  walked  these  streets!  Here  St. 
Mark  founded  a  Christian  church. 

The.  run  by  rail  between  Alexandria  and  Cairo  was 
through  the  Delta  of  Egypt,  crossing  both  branches  of  the 
Nile,  the  Kosetta  and  Damietta  rivers,  which  flow  off  in  dif- 
ferent directions,  mingling  their  waters  with  the  blue  Medi- 
terranean. It  is  the  first  railroad  built  in  Egypt  (1855), 
which  must  have  struck  the  Arabs  with  amazement.  The 
distance  between  the  two  cities  is  about  five  hours,  or  ono 
hundred  and  fifty  miles.  My  ticket  is  in  Arabic,  and  looks 
like  an  old  hen  had  scratched  it.  We  are  passing  through  a 


130 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


In  Egypt — Alexandria  and  Cairo.  131 

level,  fertile  country — as  rich  as  the  Mississippi  Valley  or 
Western  prairies — every  foot  of  which  is  cultivated.  Here 
are  fields  of  onions,  garlic,  barley,  cotton,  bearded  wheat, 
beans,  potatoes,  groups  of  stately  palm-trees,  the  tamarisk, 
flocks  of  ducks,  the  sacred  ibis,  pelicans,  and  storks;  mud 
villages,  with  their  squalid  misery  and  poverty;  minarets 
and  mosques;  crowds  of  half-naked  men  and  women  at 
every  station,  and  naked  children  drinking  stagnant  water 
or  bathing  in  the  muddy  pools.  We  see  trains  of  camels, 
loaded  with  chicken- coops,  sacks  of  grain,  vegetables  in 
baskets,  eggs,  and  sugar-cane;  the  fellahin  pumping  water 
from  the  rivers  and  canals  with  buffaloes,  or  raising  it  by 
hand.  These  are  some  of  the  strange  sights  visible  travel- 
ing through  the  old  land  of  Goshen,  which  the  children  of 
Israel,  famished  in  the  desert,  longed  to  see  once  more — 
where  they  had  left  their  flesh-pots,  garlic,  and  onions. 
Here  we  are  in  a  laud  of  sunshine,  transported  from  clouds 
and  rain  into  almost  an  endless  spring.  Here  it  hardly 
ever  rains.  The  farmers  need  no  rain,  because  farming 
consists  in  drawing  water.  Their  crops  are  gathered  before 
the  overflow,  which  begins  in  June  and  continues  till  Octo- 
ber. This  annual  overflow  of  the  Nile  over  this  beautiful 
Delta,  occasioned  by  the  equatorial  rains,  leaves  on  the  land 
every  year  a  rich  sediment  which  keeps  up  its  great  fer- 
tility. When  the  Nile  has  receded  to  its  banks,  the  fellah- 
in, or  farmers,  of  Egypt  turn  this  rich  deposit  under  and 
plant  all  their  crops.  So  you  see  the  crops  are  cultivated 
in  the  winter-time  and  are  gathered  before  the  Nile  begins 
to  rise.  It  was  so  in  the  time  of  Jacob,  when  his  sons  came 
down  to  Egypt  after  corn.  To  my  mind,  this  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  stories  in  the  old  Bible — the  most  pathetic 
and  beautiful — the  meeting  between  the  venerable  father 
and  his  long-lost  son,  who  had  become  the  ruler  over  Egypt. 
It  is  then  through  Abraham's  eyes  we  first  behold  this 


1 32  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

historic  land  of  the  Bible.  Finally,  we  see  the  yellow 
sands  of  the  desert,  rolling  in  hills  along  the  green  valley 
of  the  living  river,  above  which  tower  away  in  grandeur 
the  lofty  pyramids,  the  sight  of  which  thrills  my  very  soul. 
We  are  in  Cairo. 

In  front  of  the  station  is  a  scene  that  beggars  description. 
Alexandria  was  modern — this  is  Oriental  sure  enough. 
Acres  of  donkeys,  dromedaries,  and  stately  camels ;  Egyp- 
tians, Turks,  and  black  Ethiopians,  swarm  in  blazing  cos- 
tumes of  all  shades  and  gorgeous  colors — turbaned,  sashed, 
hallooing,  kicking,  screaming,  until  we  are  lost  in  bewil- 
derment. We  rush  out  to  select  a  choice  animal — a  donkey 
— before  they  are  all  taken.  Then  off  we  go,  with  the  Arab 
boy  twisting  the  donkey's  tail,  whipping  him  on  the  legs  as 
he  sidles  around,  running  ahead  to  clear  the  way — a  perfect 
stampede  down  one  street,  up  another,  and  around  the  cor- 
ner, at  full  speed,  with  my  legs  nearly  touching  the  ground. 
I  had  n't  enjoyed  such  a  wild  ride  in  twenty  years.  Hotel 
Alexandrie — French;  proprietor,  Frenchman;  Arab  at- 
tendant speaks  French — "Ici,  nous  Arretons."  We  stop 
here. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

CAIRO— CITADEL — PYRAMIDS — MUSEUM. 

from  Alexandria,  I  met  an  English  civil  en- 
\J  gineer*  on  the  train,  who  related  to  me  many  interesting 
incidents  connected  with  the  recent  Egyptian  war.  He 
showed  me  at  Tanta,  a  station  just  before  we  cross  the 
splendid  iron  bridge  over  the  Rosetta,  where  Arabi  Pasha's 
troops  threw  the  English  residents  on  the  track  and  ran  the 
cars  over  them.  In  excavating  in  Egypt  he  found  the  ver- 
tebrae of  a  whale  thirty-eight  feet  below  the  surface  of  the 

*Col.  Ward. 


Cairo —  Citadel — Pyramids — Museum.  1 33 

ground.  He  informed  me  Col.  Moncrief,  from  India,  had 
projected  a  great  system  of  canals  for  Egypt,  and  that  the 
civil  war  in  America  was  the  cause  of  the  large  increase  in 
the  production  of  cotton,  which  had  been  cultivated  under 
the  American  system  with  profit.  I  passed  a  car-load  of  cot- 
ton-bales going  to  Alexandria,  baled  with  bagging  and  iron 
ties.  I  saw  cotton  planted  in  four-foot  rows  and  cultivated 
like  the  fields  in  Georgia.  The  stalks  are  pulled  up  and 
burned  for  fuel,  as  Egypt  is  destitute  of  wood  and  coal. 

Cairo  is  the  capital  of  Egypt,  and  contains  half  a  million 
of  inhabitants,  four  hundred  thousand  of  whom  are  follow- 
ers of  Islam.  I  should  suppose  the  remainder  consists  of 
Copts  (Egyptian  Christians),  Bedouins,  or  Arabs  of  the  des- 
ert, Jews,  Italians,  Greeks,  Germans,  French,  English,  and  a 
few  Americans.  The  last  class  are  high  officials  in  the  army 
or  are  spending  the  winter  here  for  health  and  pleasure. 
The  most  curious  and  amusing  sights  are  to  be  seen  on  the 
streets  and  in  the  bazaars  of  Cairo.  Its  street-life  is  its 
greatest  charm  to  me.  I  have  been  tortured  into  pain,  al- 
most, laughing  at  the  donkeys  and  the  Arab  boys.  I  have 
sat  at  Shepheard's  Hotel,  close  by  the  Alexandrie,  and 
watched  these  little  vagabonds  for  hours — fighting,  shout- 
ing, dressed  in  all  colors,  bare-legged,  or  hardly  dressed  at 
all.  They  have  named  their  donkeys  to  suit  all  nation- 
alities— Bismarck  to  a  German,  Napoleon  to  a  Frenchman, 
Gladstone  to  an  Englishman,  and  Yankee  Doodle,  are  rec- 
ommended. These  boys,  so  often  in  contact  with  English 
traveling  people,  who  constitute  nine-tenths  of  the  travel 
here,  have  picked  up  a  wonderful  lot  of  English  words  and 
expressions.  Many  of  them  can  speak  fragments  of  half  a 
dozen  languages,  but  they  find  English  the  most  profitable. 
They  will  even  declare  their  donkeys  understand  and  speak 
the  language,  all  in  good  humor. 

But  if  you  want  to  see  a  genuine  pattern  of  Oriental 


134  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

life,  go  to  the  "  Muskee,"  in  old  Cairo.  It  is  a  regular 
Arabian  Nights  Entertainment  all  the  time.  The  houses 
are  built  so  narrow  and  so  high,  they  nearly  come  together 
with  their  upper  projecting  stories.  I  could  almost  jump 
from  one  balcony  to  another.  It  is  to  keep  the  sun  out  of 
the  street  below.  Here  you  behold  gaudily  dressed  and 
half-dressed  men,  water-carriers,  peddlers  with  their  wares 
On  their  heads,  shouting;  donkeys  braying,  dogs  barking, 
camels  groaning,  horses  and  carriages,  mixed  up  in  endless 
confusion.  You  can  scarcely  walk  or  hear  your  ears  in 
the  "  Muskee ; "  it  is  a  veritable  pandemonium — a  Babel  of 
tongues  and  nations.  A  German  once  called  this  thorough- 
fare a  "  Hollenscandel " — a  mild  way  of  expressing  it. 

I  was  sitting  at  Shepheard's  Hotel  this  evening,  when  I 
witnessed  the  first  aristocratic  splurge  from  the  Harem  I 
had  seen.  "  Here  they  come ;  clear  the  way ! "  shouted  two 
runners  (sais),  dressed  in  short  trousers,  with  bare  legs,  each 
holding  a  staff  in  front  of  him.  Presently  a  magnificent 
carriage  thundered  by,  with  two  veiled  women.  They  wrore 
long  veils  of  silk  or  muslin,  fastened  to  a  pin  or  cylinder  of 
brass,  silver,  or  gold,  over  the  nose,  just  low  enough  to  leave 
"their  dark,  restless  eyes  exposed,"  which  seemed  to  have 
an  insatiable  curiosity  to  see  every  thing. 

The  lower  class  of  women  carry  their  naked  brats  on 
their  shoulders  or  in  baskets  on  top  of  their  heads.  Their 
eyes  are  nearly  always  sore,  about  which  swarms  of  flies 
gather  as  they  pass  along.  It  is  estimated  that  about  one 
in  every  seven  of  the  population  is  afflicted  with  diseased 
or  swollen  eyelids.  It  is  a  most  revolting  sight  that  meets 
your  observation  wherever  you  turn,  among  this  class  of 
people.  Many  of  their  mothers  do  not  seem  to  even  brush 
the  flies  away.  This,  to  some  extent,  may  account  for  the 
unusual  amount  of  blindness  prevailing  among  Egyptians. 

The  women  of  the  better  classes  are  veiled  in  the  way 


Cairo —  Oifadel — Pyramid* — 


135 


described,  and  even  many  of  the  poor  mothers  affect  the 
custom  of  concealing  their  faces.  As  soon  as  the  girls 
marry,  they  adopt 
the  veil.  They  are 
often  mothers  at  ten 
to  twelve  years  of 
age.  I  met  two  girls 
near  the  Park  to- 
day, each  bearing  a 
baby  on  her  shoul- 
der, I  supposed  were 
nurses,  until  my 
guide  informed  me 
they  were  married. 
I  did  not  considi  r 
them  above  the  ages 
mentioned. 

The  bazaar  is  an- 
other institution  of 
Cairo,  as  well  as  of 
Constantinople.  J 
could  not  describe  a 
bazaar;  it  is  much 
like  "  Muskee  " — in- 
describable. I  wanted  a  fez — a  flaring  cap  with  a  black  tas- 
sel on  top.  We  walked  an  hour  before  we  came  to  the  street 
where  they  were  to  be  found.  Just  so  with  all  these  ba- 
zaars ;  there  is  one  for  every  thing — gold  ornaments,  silk, 
carpets,  slippers,  pipes,  tobacco,  antiquities  of  recent  manu- 
facture, fez  caps,  etc.  I  wanted  a  veil  for  a  souvenir.  We 
bought  the  black  crape  in  one  shop,  the  cylinder  in  another, 
and  had  it  made  at  the  tailor's,  a  block  away.  They  are 
mostly  in  narrow  lanes ;  sometimes  covered  over  with  raft- 
ers under  mattings,  to  protect  against  the  rays  of  a  vertical 


MOTHKR  AND  CHILD. 


136 


Around  the  W^  'd  in  1884. 


sun.     Some  of  these  little  streets  are  so  dark  they  have  to 
be  lighted,  and  when  lighted  up  they  present  a  gorgeous 

scene.  Here  you  see 
the  merchant  sitting 
cross-legged,  smoking 
his  pipe  "  with  all  his 
Oriental  dignity. 
Occasionally  he  sips 
his  cup  of  coffee. 

The  dogs  are  giv- 
ing way  before  the 
advance  of  modern 
civilization.  I  heard 
they  frescoed  the 
streets  with  their  hid- 
eous carcasses,  like 
they  do  in  Constan- 
tinople. Not  so. 
While  I  have  seen 
many  lean  curs,  I 
have  been  agreea- 
bly disappointed  as 
to  numbers.  These 
Christian  dogs  may 
eventually  take  their  places  in  higher  spheres  of  life,  for 
already  the  fanaticism  of  Islam  is  slowly  but  surely  giving 
way  before  a  liberal  regime  of  the  Egyptian  Government. 
Some  years  ago  a  woman  was  not  allowed  unveiled  on  the 
streets  of  Cairo ;  now  you  see  plenty  of  natives  and  all  the 
Europeans  every  day. 

One  of  the  finest  views  I  ever  enjoyed  was  from  the  Cita- 
del, about  two  or  three  miles  distant,  on  the  summit  of  a 
lofty  hill  that  commands  the  whole  city — below,  the  valley 
of  the  Nile,  the  distant  pyramids,  the  sands  and  the  hills 


A  WATER-CARRIER. 


(137) 


138  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  the  desert  beyond.  It  is  one  of  the  most  impressive 
pictures  seen  in  the  world.  It  never  can  be  forgotten. 
Within  the  Citadel  is  one  of  the  grandest  mosques,  of  beau- 
tiful alabaster,  in  the  city  of  Cairo,  containing  the  tomb  of 
Mehemet  Ali.  In  1811  this  unscrupulous  tyrant  invited 
the  brave  Mamelukes  into  this  Citadel  on  the  pretext  of  aa 
entertainment  to  be  given  in  honor  of  his  son ;  and  when  it 
had  ended,  the  invited  guests  started  toward  the  gates,  to 
find  them  all  closed.  Every  man  was  shot  save  one,  who 
made  the  fearful  leap  down  the  precipice — nearly  one  hun- 
dred feet — and  escaped.  This  was  Enim  Bey.  Neither  was 
he  or  his  horse  injured  in  this  miraculous  feat. 

Here  also  is  Joseph's  Well — very  old — hewn  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  deep  and  fifteen 
feet  in  diameter.  The  bottom  of  this  well  is  supposed  to  be 
on  a  level  with  the  Nile,  from  whence  it  probably  derives 
its  supply  of  water.  The  water  is  elevated  to  the  top  by 
earthen  jars  attached  to  ropes,  which  is  done  by  a  wheel 
and  two  mules  at  the  bottom.  It  is  a  curious  sight  to  watch 
the  mules  descending  a  circular  stair-way,  round  and  round, 
two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  deep. 

You  can  see  any  number  of  traditional  places  about  Cairo 
if  you  follow  your  guide.  The  number  of  trees  some 
prophet  or  saint  sat  under,  wells  Joseph  drank  out  of,  rocks 
and  hills  venerated,  are  too  numerous  to  bear  mention. 
They  show  you  the  sycamore  our  Saviour  rested  under 
when  Joseph  and  Mary  fled  into  Egypt,  the  house  they 
lived  in,  and  the  fount  the  infant  Jesus  was  baptized  in. 
Donkey-boy  says  (this  is  his  account  of  it) :  "  When  Christ 
little  boy  he  be  Mussulman ;  fill  him  water,  dip  little  boy 
in,  he  come  out  Christian.  Water  no  do  little  boy  good." 

Let  us  return  to  the  Citadel,  the  Acropolis  of  the  ancient 
Roman  Babylonians.  This  hill  is  to  Cairo  what  the  Mount 
of  Olives  is  to  Jerusalem.  I  never  tire  looking  down  upon. 


Cairo —  Citadel — Pyramids — Museum.  130 

the  city  below  me,  its  four  hundred  mosques,  with  the  muez- 
zins calling  to  prayer,  or  upon  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  which 
is  covered  with  the  monuments  and  ruined  cities  of  ancient 
times.  Behold  the  narrow,  winding  streets  of  Cairo,  embow- 
ered gardens,  palaces,  parks,  with  its  moving,  restless  popu- 
lation on  donkeys  and  camels,  its  hundreds  of  minarets  glis- 
tening in  the  sunlight,  and  its  glorious  old  river  winding 
itself  silently  away  through  a  carpet  of  green  amidst  all 
this  grandeur,  antiquities,  and  ruins.  Below  our  feet  is  the 
old  city  of  Cairo,  once  the  ancient  Roman  Babylon;  and 
away  to  the  north-east  I  can  see  the  obelisk  of  Heliopolis,. 
a  tall  granite  shaft,  upon  which  Joseph  looked  when  he 
was  brought  a  slave  to  Egypt.  In  the  south-east  are  the 
pyramids  of  Sakhara,  and  old  Memphis,  former  capital  of 
Egypt.  To  the  westward,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  roll 
the  yellow  sands  of  the  Libyan  desert  like  waves  of  the  sea 
to  the  foot  of  the  Great  Pyramid.  Opposite  Cairo  is  the 
Island  of  Rhoda,  upon  which  is  located  the  famous  Nilom- 
eter,  a  graduated  pillar  that  marks  the  rise  of  the  Nile. 
Thirty-two  feet  is  the  lowest  water,  forty  is  perfect,  but 
forty-two  would  overwhelm  the  lovely  valley  in  ruins.  On 
this  spot  it  is  said  Pharaoh's  daughter,  Thermusis,  found 
Moses  in  the  bulrushes  when  a  little  boy. 

How  clear  and  elastic  is  this  atmosphere  of  Egypt,  which 
enables  us  to  see  the  most  distant  objects!  Its  eternal  sun- 
shine and  cloudless  skies,  its  perennial  spring  of  blooming 
flowers  and  singing  birds,  make  it  a  veritable  paradise  in 
winter.  During  our  winter  all  is  bustle  and  activity  here 
among  the  farmers — plowing,  seeding,  and  irrigating  their 
crops.  In  spring  the  harvest-time  comes  on ;  the  crops  are 
gathered  and  marketed.  Then  the  Nile  begins  to  rise  and 
flood,  until  the  whole  country  looks  like  an  ocean,  with  the 
cities  and  towns,  and  mud  villages  of  the  fellahin,  appearing 
on  mounds  and  elevations  above  its  sluggish  bosom.  Three 


140  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

months  of  boat-life,  work  indoors,  and  rest  for  the  poor 
farmers  during  the  wet  season,  bring  them  to  October,  when 
the  crops  are  planted  again. 

The  architecture  of  the  Moslem,  it  is  said,  grew,  like  that  of 
the  Mongolians,  out  of  the  form  of  the  tent,  which  has  always 
been  the  home  of  the  wild  Bedouin.  To  this  form  has 
been  added  the  cupola  of  the  Byzantine  churches  among 
the  Arabs  and  Turks  and  other  Mussulmans.  In  their 
mosques  you  see  no  seats,  no  benches,  no  altars,  no  pictures, 
as  in  Christian  churches;  but  the  floors  are  covered  with 
carpets  or  rugs  for  prostration  and  kneeling. 

I  am  sorry  I  could  not  visit  the  "  old  Moslem  University, 
founded  in  975.  It  is  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  num- 
bers over  ten  thousand  pupils  and  three  hundred  and  twen- 
ty professors  from  all  Mohammedan  nations.  Many  attend 
it,  however,  to  escape  conscription  to  the  army,  which,  in 
Egypt  and  Turkey,  is  feared  more  than  death."  The  stu- 
dents sit  cross-legged  on  the  floor  in  groups,  reading  or 
listening  to  the  teacher.  The  Koran,  or  Mohammedan  Bi- 
ble, is  the  only  book  taught.  It  is  the  logic,  grammar,  ge- 
ology, theology,  and  law  of  the  Mussulman  world.  The 
students  sit,  eat,  and  sleep  on  their  little  mats,  or  blankets. 
They  support  themselves  or  are  supported  by  alms.  Even 
the  professors  receive  no  salary,  but  are  supported  by  the 
rich  students,  selling  copying-books,  and  giving  private  in- 
struction. There  are  no  benches,  chairs,  beds,  or  comforts 
of  any  kind.  Their  self-denial  is  simply  marvelous.  Here 
is  the  nursery  —  the  hot-bed — of  this  fanaticism.  Islam 
seems  to  be  the  most  formidable  power  that  Christianity 
has  ever  had  to  contend  with;  and  in  my  opinion  it  must 
continue  for  some  time  yet — an  obstinate  resistance  to  the 
spread  of  the  gospel  in  Asia  or  Europe,  or  wherever  its 
banner  waves.  Opposed  to  this  old  institution  of  El-Azhar 
is  a  new  university — founded  by  the  former  Khedive,  and 


(14Q  A.N  EGYPTIAN  TEMPLE  IN  THE   CITY  OF  CAIKO. 


Cairo —  Citadel — Pyramids — Museum .  141 

superintended  by  a  Swiss  scholar,  Prof.  Dor — which  num- 
bers three  hundred  or  more  students.  The  modern  system 
of  secular  education — without  religion,  says  Dr.  Schaff,  who 
visited  both  these  institutions — has  been  adopted.  All  the 
European  languages,  books,  etc.,  are  taught;  but  it  is  re- 
garded with  suspicion  by  the  ever-faithful. 

I  found  no  more  interesting  place  to  visit  than  the  Boulak 
Museum  of  Egyptian  Antiquities,  which  is  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Nile,  in  a  suburb  and  harbor  of  Cairo.  Mr. 
Frank  Blinn — a  splendid  young  fellow  from  San  Francisco 
— who,  like  myself,  was  doing  the  world  alone,  was  my  com- 
panion to  the  museum.  We  walked  through  all  the  pretty 
parks  and  grand  avenues  under  the  interlacing  branches  of 
the  mimosa,  sycamore,  and  tall  umbrella  palms,  which  afford- 
ed most  grateful  shades.  Here  myriads  of  lovely  tropical 
flowers  were  blooming,  sparrows  chirping  and  hopping  on 
the  ground,  rooks  cawing  upon  the  house-tops,  and  paroquets 
chattering  among  the  dark  embowering  trees.  More  beau- 
tiful and  charming  still  were  the  glorious  heliotropes,  roses, 
verbenas,  and  cape  jasmines  that  nestled  so  sweetly  in  the 
memories  of  my  home.  Then  we  emerged  into  a  great 
thoroughfare  of  bustle  and  life  again.  Black-eyed  women 
looked  out  from  latticed  windows ;  dogs,  with  bristling  manes 
and  savage  teeth,  snapped  and  snarled  from  nooks  and 
corners  in  the  streets.  At  last  we  reach  the  museum.  Here 
are  monuments  and  statues  of  the  remotest  ages,  and  a  vast 
collection  of  mummies  that  fill  many  rooms.  The  empb 
sarcophagi  of  solid  granite  are  equally  as  interesting  as  the 
bodies  they  contained.  They  know  the  original  locality  of 
every  article  shown.  Both  bulls  and  ibises  were  worshiped 
while  living,  and  when  they  died  they  were  placed  in  tombs 
near  the  temple,  embalmed,  and  worshiped  still.  The  beetle 
was  also  an  emblem  of  the  resurrection  of  the  dead.  There 
must  be  more  than  one  thousand  sarcophagi  and  mummies 


142 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


Cairo —  Citadel — Pyramids — Museum.  1 43 

gathered  here  from  the  catacombs  and  tombs  of  Abydos, 
Sakhara,  Denderah,  Thebes,  and.  other  places  along  the  Nile 
The  papyrus  rolls  found  in  these  mummies  are  among  the 
most  interesting  curiosities  of  the  museum.  Many  of  these 
manuscripts  of  the  early  scholars  relating  to  Rameses  III., 
the  Ptolemies,  and  other  important  events  in  its  history  be- 
fore the  birth  of  Christ,  have  been  transferred  from  here 
to  the  museums  in  Turin,  Berlin,  Paris,  and  London.  I 
saw  the  statue  of  Rameses  the  Great,  the  Pharaoh  of  Isra- 
el's oppression,  so  often  mentioned  in  the  old  Bible,  who 
was  the  Napoleon  of  ancient  times. 

Egypt's  history  is  carved  in  hieroglyphics  on  her  mono- 
liths and  tombs.  As  I  have  observed,  the  key  to  this  whole 
mysterious  language  has  unlocked  its  riches  to  the  world 
— the  Rosetta  stone.  The  name  of  King  Ptolemy,  inclosed 
in  a  cartouch  (elliptical  frame),  gave  the  first  clew  to  this 
hieroglyphical  alphabet,  constructed  by  Dr.  Young  and  oth- 
ers. The  figures  of  birds,  bulls,  lions,  serpents,  and  other 
characters,  like  knives,  scissors,  etc.,  by  means  of  the  Greek 
translation  found  with  it,  and  by  the  aid  of  the  old  Egyptian 
(Copt)  language,  were  spelled  out  into  a  written  language. 
I  saw  the  most  artistically  wrought  work  in  brass,  ivory, 
stone,  wood,  bone,  silver,  and  gold — beautiful  chains,  rings, 
necklaces,  and  other  ornaments,  worn  over  two  thousand 
years  ago;  the  work  in  iron  and  glass  embracing  many 
useful  articles  of  household  furniture  and  implements  for 
agriculture,  similar  to  those  described  in  the  excavations 
of  Pompeii,  at  the  Fernando  Museum  in  Naples,  and  seem 
but  the  original  ideas  or  models  that  are  reproduced  in  mod- 
em forms  of  civilization.  One  age  perfects  what  a  previous 
one  discovers. 

Egypt  was  the  cradle  of  the  earliest  civilization  which 
influenced  the  culture  of  literature  and  love  of  art  among 
the  Greeks.  From  here  it  was  transmitted  to  Rome.  It 


144  Around  trie  World  in  1884. 

is  curious  nowadays  to  study  how  these  old  pagans  excelled 
the  remote  generations  which  succeeded  them  in  some  arts 
which  now  appear  lost  to  the  world.  Here  are  dead  bodies 
preserved  for  three  thousand  years  in  these  tombs — Egyp- 
tian mummies.  Where  are  the  masterpieces  produced  that 
rival  the  "  Dying  Gladiator"  and  "Laocoon,"  now  in  Rome? 
All  efforts  in  sculpture  have  failed  to  rival  their  perfections. 
No  one  knows  their  age  or  history.  The  most  exquisite 
bronzes,  the  most  delicate  engravings  on  precious  stones, 
and  the  finest  cameos  I  saw  in  Europe  were  dug  up  from 
the  ruins  of  Pompeii.  Grecian  mythology  was  one  of  the 
grandest  conceptions  of  the  human  mind.  Her  temples  in 
Athens  were  adorned  with  matchless  works  of  art,  of  paint- 
ing, and  of  sculpture,  which  seemed  to  breathe  the  divinity 
of  the  gods  they  worshiped  and  believed  to  be  immortal. 
Alexander  spread  the  triumphs  of  her  arms,  and  on  the 
downfall  of  Greece  rose  the  power  of  Rome.  And  then 
westward  over  Europe  its  power  extended,  until  the  Gauls 
and  Britons  were  conquered  by  the  armies  of  Caesar.  From 
this  time  up  to  the  twelfth  century  art  appears  hardly  to 
have  existed  at  all.  Christianity  itself,  through  all  this 
darkened  gloom  of  centuries,  suffered  martyrdom,  persecu- 
tions, tortures,  and  human  inquisitions.  But  it  lived  till  the 
sixteenth  century,  when  Martin  Luther  arose  to  assert  the 
freedom  of  conscience  and  every  man's  right  to  worship 
God  under  his  own  vine  and  fig-tree. 

Since  that  period  Christianity  and  the  Bible  have  achieved 
more  brilliant  triumphs  in  the  past  hundred  years,  done  more 
to  make  the  world  and  mankind  happy,  than  all  this  pa- 
gan idolatry  and  civilization  of  Egypt,  Greece,  and  Rome 
had  accomplished  in  three  thousand  years. 

The  Elizabethan  period  marks  the  most  brilliant  dawn 
of  Christianity  and  literature  ever  known,  eclipsing  the  age 
of  Augustus  in  Rome  or  Pericles  in  Greece.  The  past  three 


The  Great  Pyramids  at  Gheezeh.  •      145 

hundred  years  of  this  new  civilization  that  grew  out  of 
religious  oppression  has  thrown  back  the  light  of  the  gos- 
pel upon  the  East,  from  whence  it  came,  and  now  encircles 
the  globe. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  GREAT  PYRAMIDS  AT  GHEEZEH. 
f  ET  us  start  early  in  the  morning,  about  the  middle  of 
J-J  March,  from  Shepheard's  Hotel,  to  see  the  greatest  mar- 
vel of  all  the  monuments  of  ancient  Egypt.  It  is  eleven 
miles  distant  to  Cheops,  the  most  wonderful  of  all  the  pyra- 
mids. 

Here  are  plenty  of  donkeys  of  every  pattern  and  style. 
Some  are  white  and  others  are  mouse-colored,  black,  or  of 
several  colors.  Some  were  shaved  from  head  to  tail,  with  a 
little  brush  left.  I  saw  several  barred  off  like  zebras,  striped 
red,  blue,  or  other  fanciful  designs.  It  was  a  gorgeous  spec- 
tacle. 

The  hotel  was  crowded,  as  usual,  with  English  and  Amer- 
ican tourists.  They  all  seem  to  have  met  here,  from  Pales- 
tine, Europe,  India,  and  leaving  in  every  direction.  Cook's 
office,  close  by,  was  sometimes  crowded  with  these  people 
arranging  tours,  changing  routes,  or  obtaining  information. 
So  there  were  always  plenty  of  people  to  see  you  off  to  the 
pyramids. 

Mounting  your  animal  and  getting  a  start  are  the  secrets 
of  a  successful  excursion.  The  saddle  is  high  and  stuffy,  with 
stirrups  to  be  adjusted.  But  if  you  can  hold  on,  the  donkey- 
boy  is  a  lively  little  rascal,  and  will  keep  you  in  a  canter 
half  a  day.  Before  I  had  reached  the  bridge  across  the 
Kile  I  was  in  a  perfect  stampede.  We  made  noise  enough 
for  a  dozen  people,  although  there  were  only  two  of  us.  My 
donkey  would  start  across  one  street  and  the  boy  would 
10 


146     .  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

swing  him  around  by  the  tail  on  the  next  corner,  colliding 
with  camels,  beggars,  asses,  and  dervishes.  Nobody  can 
steer  a  donkey.  I  came  near  going  between  a  camel's  legs 
once,  at  full  speed,  with  my  duster  flying  straight  behind 
me  and  my  legs  nearly  touching  the  ground.  At  another 
time  I  barely  escaped  going  over  my  donkey's  head  in  one  di- 
rection, while  he  had  started  in  another.  The  narrow  streets 
were  jammed.  I  had  one  consolation  left  me :  if  I  saw  ruin 
and  desolation  ahead,  I  could  just  extend  my  feet  a  few 
inches  and  let  the  little  vagabond  run  out  from  under  me. 
In  two  hours  we  were  at  the  foot  of  the  pyramids.  The 
ride  is  down  an  avenue  under  the  interlacing  branches  of 
acacia-trees,  that  afford  a  grateful  shade  the  entire  dis- 
tance. Soon  after  crossing  the  Nile,  we  passed  the  Pasha's 
harem  and  lovely  gardens,  inclosed  by  high  walls,  with 
pretty  fountains  in  them.  We  soon  entered  the  country, 
our  avenue  passing  through  broad  fields  of  wheat,  barley,  and 
alfalfa.  Hundreds  of  camels,  led  by  the  Arabs  or  driven 
along  the  road,  were  laden  with  coops  of  chickens,  eggs,  and 
grain  for  market ;  at  least  half  of  them  were  loaded  down 
with  the  green  alfalfa,  going  into  Cairo.  I  observed  the 
camels  receiving  their  burdens  along  on  either  side.  They 
always  kneel,  first  with  their  fore  legs,  and  then  doubling  up 
their  hind  legs  under  them,  fall  flat  on  the  ground.  The 
Arabs  usually  load  or  mount  them -in  this  position.  They 
were  cutting  the  grain  and  clover  with  scythes,  the  same  to 
which  they  had  always  been  accustomed.  I  noticed  the  rich 
alluvium  cracked  in  great  fissures  now  and  then.  The  soil 
is  of  immense  depth  and  fertility,  Veing  a  dark  mulatto  in 
complexion. 

,  As  we  approached  our  destination  the  venders  of  old 
curios  and  heathen  gods  became  numerous.  Every  thing 
was  very  antique — very  old,  master.  The  beetle  is  a  favor- 
ite relic.  It  was  the  emblem  of  the  resurrection  of  their 


77)*  Great  Pyramids  at  Gheezeh. 


147 


148  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

dead.  I  procured  a  button  and  a  lamp  I  suppose  were  used 
in  Joseph's  time.  The  supposition,  even,  affords  some  conso- 
lation. They  might  have  belonged  to  Joseph — who  can  tell  ? 

It  is  worthy  of  mention  that  all  the  mighty  architectural 
monuments  of  men  have  been  on  plains  or  in  level  coun- 
tries, "as  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  the  Euphrates,  the 
Ganges,  Lombardy  and  the  Netherlands."  Man  has  not 
aspired  to  rival  the  mightier  works  of  nature  by  placing 
the  monuments  of  his  genius  on  the  Alps,  the  Highlands, 
or  lofty  Himalayas.  According  to  the  best  authorities, 
there  were  once  more  than  seventy  pyramids,  representing 
as  many  kings,  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile.  Many  have  dis- 
appeared entirely,  and  others  are  more  or  less  in  a  ruined 
condition.  These  are  great  mountains  of  stone,  built  for 
the  same  purpose  as  tombs,  to  hide  a  royal  mummy  in  per- 
fect security.  Observes  Dr.  Schaff:  "As  soon  as  a  king  as- 
cended his  throne  he  began  to  build  his  monument  and  his 
sepulcher.  He  wished  to  reign  even  after  his  death.  The 
size  of  the  pyramid  corresponded  to  the  length  of  the  reign." 
The  body  of  the  dead  monarch,  being  first  embalmed,  was 
deposited  in  the  stone  sarcophagus,  previously  prepared  in 
the  interior  of  the  building,  and  the  access  was  closed. 
They  had  no  windows  or  doors.  These  pyramids,  then, 
were  the  impenetrable  casings  of  royal  mummies. 

There  is  no  doubt,  according  to  Herodotus,  that  these 
ancient  Egyptians  entertained  a  strong  belief  in  the  immor- 
tality and  migration  of  the  soul  and  its  final  return  to  the 
body.  Hence  the  scarabseus,  to  which  I  have  alluded  as  a 
souvenir,  was  worshiped  as  an  emblem  of  this  immortality. 
The  soul  after  death,  passing  from  one  animal  to  another,  en- 
circling every  object  of  air  and  water,  finally  enters  the  body 
again,  after  a  lapse  of  three  thousand  years,  and  is  born  anew. 
This  is  metempsychosis,  or  transmigration  of  souls,  which  is 
believed  in  by  the  Buddhist  in  Ceylon,  China,  and  Japan. 


The  Great  Pyramids  at  Gheezeh.  149 

This  great  pyramid  of  Cheops  in  front  of  which  we  now 
stand,  gazing  in  awe  upon  its  lofty  summits,  is  the  pyramid 
as  the  Sphinx  at  its  base  is  the  Sphinx  of  all  the  monuments 
in  this  historic  land.  It  is  probably  the  oldest  as  well  as 
the  greatest,  having  been  erected  by  Chufu  (Cheops)  more 
than  two  thousand  years  before  our  Saviour  was  born.  It 
was  old  when  Abraham  visited  Pharaoh  and  when  Moses 
led  the  Israelites  out  of  bondage.  I  have  been  walking 
around  its  base  to  form  some  idea  of  its  colossal  proportions. 
It  is  the  loftiest  and  most  gigantic  structure  ever  reared  by 
human  hands.  It  covers  thirteen  acres  of  ground,  and  rises 
perpendicularly  460  feet — originally  479  feet  in  height.  It 
was  once  incased  in  polished  red  granite;  but,  like  the  cat- 
acombs of  the  Mamelukes  near  Cairo,  it  has  been  robbed  of 
its  material  by  the  vandalism  of  the  Saracens,  Greeks,  and 
Romans,  to  enrich  their  palaces  and  mosques. 

Herodotus  informs  us  it  required  100,000  workmen  (Di- 
odorus  says  360,000),  changing  every  three  months,  ten 
years  to  construct  the  causeway  for  the  conveyance  of  the 
stone,  and  twenty  years  more  to  build  the  great  pyramid. 

But  what  a  tumult  of  wild-looking  Bedouins,  naked 
Arabs,  guides,  water-carriers,  invests  us !  One  little  vaga- 
bond running  to  pick  up  a  stone,  another  with  a  little  dirt 
god — "Three  tousand  year  old,  massa;  buy,  massa;  very 
cheap."  An  English  party,  just  about  to  leave  in  his  car- 
riage for  Cairo,  was  literally  blocked  and  eould  not  move 
until  he  had  dispensed  backshish.  The  sand  is  burning 
hot  and  deep  all  about  the  pyramids.  We  are  right  on  the 
edge  of  the  desert.  There  is  the  Nile  valley  rolling  its  verd- 
ure up  to  our  feet.  To  the  westward  rolls  away  the  yellow 
sand  of  the  boundless  desert.  We  stand  for  a  moment, 
once  more  gazing  on  this  mountain  of  corrugated  blocks  of 
stone  as  it  rises  in  steps  one  block  above  the  other,  reced- 
ing from  four  different  sides,  until  it  narrows  to  a  point  far 


150  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

away  in  the  air.  The  ascent  to  the  top  can  never  be  for- 
gotten. You  are  literally  dragged  up — all  tourists  are — - 
and  boosted,  with  the  shouts  of  "  Backshish  "  ringing  in  your 
ear  from  the  ground  to  the  very  summit.  The  steps  are  at 
least  two  or  three  feet  in  height,  requiring  great  physical 
effort  even  with  two  men  in  front  pulling  and  one  behind 
boosting  up.  You  are  reminded  of  the  imminent  danger 
and  peril  to  your  life  at  every  step.  More  backshish! 
The  doctor  runs  along  watching  intently ;  the  boy  with  the 
liniment,  the  water-carrier,  the  bouquet-bearer,  the  musician, 
form  a  part  of  the  escort  to  the  very  summit ;  at  every 
step  lifting  our  feet  as  high  as  our  breast  in  quick  succes- 
sion, wrenching  every  bone  and  muscle  in  my  body,  resting 
two  or  three  times  ere  we  reach  the  top.  What  grandeur, 
what  indescribable,  overwhelming  sense  of  awe !  and  our  in- 
comparable insignificance  amidst  it  all  subdues  us.  Stand- 
ing on  a  platform  about  thirty  feet  square,  we  behold  Cairo 
in  the  east,  with  its  Citadel,  mosques,  and  minarets,  and  be- 
yond the  Mokattam  hills,  the  green  valley  of  the  Nile,  the 
stately  palms,  and  the  glorious  old  river  studded  with  its 
boats  and  dahabeahs  bound  for  Nubia;  toward  the  west 
an  ocean  of  drifting  sand  and  barren  rocks;  toward  the 
south  the  mysterious  Sphinx,  the  neighboring  pyramids  of 
Chafra  and  Menkaura,  and  the  more  distant  pyramids  of 
Sakhara,  Abousir,  and  Dashour.  It  is  almost  impossible  to 
conceive  of  thejlmagnitude  and  impressiveness  of  this  match- 
less panorama.  It  is  worth  a  journey  to  Egypt.  What 
grand  associations  are  connected  with  its  history! — Abra- 
ham, Joseph,  Moses,  the  Pharaohs,  Alexander,  the  Ptol- 
emies, the  Romans,  the  Saracens,  the  Turks,  Napoleon,  and 
Cleopatra.  A  spell  of  antiquity  gathers  about  us.  We  are 
overwhelmed;  but  who  can  think,  who  can  contemplate 
this  picture  of  life  and  death,  or  muse  over  the  boundless 
past  for  these  thirsty,  torturous,  hungry  cries  for  backshish? 


The  Great  Pyramids  at  Gheezeh.  151 


152  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

It  destroys  all  our  peace,  our  serenity !  "  Why  try  to  think 
at  all?  One  must  bring  his  meditations  cut  and  dried, 
or  else  cut  and  dry  them  afterward."  It  was  impossible. 
One  offers  you  a  drink  of  water,  another  a  chisel  to  carve 
your  name,  and  a  third  one  wants  to  run  down  Cheops, 
across  the  sand,  and  up  the  polished  casing  of  the  pyramid 
of  Chafra  and  return  to  the  top  of  Cheops  in  ten  minutes. 
You  couldn't  kill  him  if  you  were  to  throw  him  off  the  tops 
hardly.  But  it  won't  do  to  get  out  of  humor;  we  must 
bear  the  annoyance;  and,  after  all,  we  rather  think  it 
amusing. 

When  you  start  down,  they  tie  a  turban  around  your 
waist,  a  kind  of  pull-back,  while  others  go  before,  holding 
out  their  hands  to  assist  you  safely  to  the  bottom.  But  I 
could  have  made  the  ascent  to  the  top  by  myself  in  fifteen 
minutes,  the  whole  number  of  the  two  hundred  steps  we  as- 
cend not  exceeding  forty-three  inches  in  height. 

From  here  we  walked  through  burning  sand  half  knee 
deep  several  hundred  yards  south  and  stood  before  the  co- 
lossal Sphinx,  which  has  kept  its  ceaseless  watch  over  the 
pyramids  for  forty  centuries.  These  sphinxes,  like  all  the 
Egyptian  gods,  have  the  body  of  a  lion  and  the  head  of  a 
man  or  a  ram.  Some  of  them,  as  at  Karnak,  have  wings  as 
"  emblems  of  swiftness  and  power  of  elevation."  This  great 
Sphinx,  one  hundred  and  forty-three  feet  in  height,  cut  out  of 
a  solid  mountain  of  stone,  lifts  its  mutilated  human  head  and 
lion  paws  out  of  the  sand  of  the  desert  in  which  it  had  been 
buried  for  ages  past.  It  is  one  hundred  and  three  feet  around 
the  head,  and  its  outstretched  paws  are  fifty  feet  in  length.  I 
think  at  least  one  hundred  feet  is  now  covered  up  in  sand. 

I  saw  a  part  of  the  stone  causeway  that  led  to  the  Nile, 
over  which  the  stone  was  brought  to  build  these  pyramids. 
All  about  are  the  remains  of  tombs  and  temples  laid  bare 
under  the  drifting  sand. 


The  Gieat  Pyramids  at  Gheezeh.  15b 


PYRAMID   OF   CHEOPS,   NEAR    CAIRO. 


154  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

I  stood  for  some  minutes  gazing  in  the  stony  eyes  of  the 
silent  Sphinx,  who  stares  in  majestic  repose,  mutilated  and 
disfigured  by  vandal  hands,  looking  back  in  the  mysterious 
past  and  watching  this  new,  busy  race  with  those  same  ear- 
nest, dreamy  eyes. 

I  did  not  visit  or  explore  the  queens'  or  kings'  chambers 
in  the  north  side  of  Cheops.  Both  these  are  large  apart- 
ments, with  sarcophagi  shaped  like  a  bath-tub  of  stone  that 
sit  in  the  middle  of  the  chambers,  in  which  the  bodies  of 
the  royal  dead  were  once  placed.  They  are  empty  now. 

We  paid  off  a  number  of  our  imposing  retinue — those 
who  had  served  us,  and  a  few  who  had  merely  bowed  on  our 
arrival  and  departure  for  Cairo — amidst  a  tumult  and  Babel 
of  tongues.  My  dragoman  belabored  his  donkey,  running 
on  foot  the  entire  way.  I  offered  him  my  seat,  but  he  pre- 
ferred to  run.  Before  we  reached  the  bridge  over  the  Nile 
the  cannon  boomed  a  signal  for  closing  the  gates  at  each  end 
of  this  magnificent  structure.  We  had  to  wait  two  hours. 
It  gave  me  a  fine  opportunity  to  study  camel-life,  the  Arabs, 
their  habits,  costumes,  etc.  There  were  hundreds  of  these 
animals,  with  their  loads  of  produce  of  the  farm  and  gar- 
den, squatted  about  resting,  while  their  burdens  were  being 
weighed  for  tax  assessment.  Every  article  pays  tribute  to 
the  government  before  it  enters  the  city.  When  the  gates 
were  opened  there  was  a  rush  indescribable.  The  camels, 
donkeys,  and  gorgeously  attired  Arabs,  and  those  not  at- 
tired at  all,  rushed  from  either  side  and  became  mixed  up 
in  inextricable  confusion.  Such  shouting  and  grotesque 
gesticulation  I  never  witnessed  before.  Many  were  seated 
on  camels  ten  feet  high,  while  little  donkeys,  no  larger 
than  a  dog  scarcely,  made  their  way  underneath,  seeking 
every  crack  and  opening  for  escape  that  offered.  There 
were  thousands  of  pedestrians,  who  rendered  the  confusion 
more  intolerable ;  and  how  they  all  escaped  without  an  ac- 


T/ie  Mohammedan  Religion  and  Christianity.       155 

cident  I  never  could  understand.  The  river  and  bridge 
over  it  are  less  than  half  a  mile  wide — what  we  call  a  free 
bridge  in  America.  I  did  not  recover  from  that  donkey 
ride  in  two  weeks.  It  was  an  eventful  excursion,  foil  of 
interest  for  one  day. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE  MOHAMMEDAN  RELIGION  AND  CHRISTIANITY. 

PHE  Koran  is  the  Bible  of  the  Mohammedans,  who  be- 
.1  lieve  it  is  like  our  Bible — an  inspired  revelation  of  re- 
ligion, morals,  philosophy,  and  government,  that  God  has 
handed  down  through  their  prophet  for  the  guidance  of  all 
Moslems.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  very  remarkable  book,  hav- 
ing made  its  impress  on  more  than  one  hundred  millions  of 
the  human  race.  But,  while  it  often  abounds  in  poetic 
beauty  and  religious  fervor,  it  is  said  by  Gibbon  and  oth- 
ers to  be  full  of  contradictions  and  base  absurdities.  I  have 
an  English  translation  which  I  have  tried  to  read,  but  found 
it  very  tiresome.  Like  our  Bible — the  Old  Testament — it 
has  a  civil  as  well  as  an  ecclesiastical  code.  Both  govern- 
ments are  one.  "But,  unlike  our  Bible,  the  Koran  has  no 
atonement,  no  Christ,  and  is  a  mock  revelation." 

The  Mussulman  prays  five  times  a  day:  "There  is  no 
Deity  but  Allah,  and  Mohammed  is  his  apostle."  The 
first  is  true,  but  the  second  clause  corrupts  the  truth,  says 
an  eminent  scholar.  "  They  claim  that  as  God  had  no  wife 
he  could  have  no  Son."  Their  only  cry  is,  "Allah  the  true 
God,  and  he  who  dies  in  his  faith  is  sure  to  be  saved ! "  They 
destroyed  idolatry.  They  believe  in  apostles  and  prophets, 
even  in  Abraham,  Adam,  Jesus,  and  Mohammed.  Jesus 
in  next  to  Mohammed,  and  with  him  will  ultimately  return 
to  judge  the  whole  world.  They  believe  in  prayer,  thanks- 
giving, fasting,  and  a  pilgrimage  at  least  once  in  a  life-time 


156  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


to  Mecca.  They  wash  their  hands  before  prayer,  reading  a 
few  verses  from  the  Koran,  which  constitutes  their  worship. 
"  Friday  is  their  Sabbath,  because  on  that  day  Adam  was 
created,  and  on  Friday  the  world  will  be  judged."  But 
they  worship  on  any  other  day  as  well.  Whether  on  board 
of  ship,  in  the  street,  at  home,  or  in  the  mosque,  the  Moslem 
turns  his  face  toward  Mecca,  being  alone  with  God,  raises 
his  hands  to  heaven,  then  laying  them  on  his  lap,  with  his 
knees  bent  and  his  forehead  touching  the  ground,  he  mut- 
ters something  that  sounds  like  the  Lord's  Prayer.  The 
hours  before  sunrise  and  after  sunset  for  prayer  were  fixed 
to  prevent  star-worship,  as  in  Arabia.  The  muezzin  (crier) 
calls  to  prayer  from  the  minaret  of  each  mosque,  at  the  five 
stated  hours  of  the  day. 

Among  the  most  curious  features  of  the  ^Mohammedan 
worship,  observes  Dr.  SchafF,  are  the  exercises  of  dancing 
and  howling  dervishes.  I  could  have  seen  these  in  Cairo, 
just  a  piece  down  the  river,  had  I  remained  until  Friday 
evening.  The  dervishes  are  the  Moslem  monks.  By  pay- 
ing a  fee,  a  Christian  is  allowed  to  see  the  performances  in 
the  mosques.  They  first  pray  and  prostrate  their  bodies, 
then  rise,  all  dressed  in  white,  flowing  gowns  and  with 
high,  stiff  woolen  hats,  their  eyes  half  closed  and  hands 
stretched  out  to  heaven;  they  whirl  round  and  round 
on  their  toes — ring  withm  ring — without  touching  each 
other,  for  an  hour,  until  they  are  completely  exhausted. 
They  will  turn  forty  or  fifty  times  in  one  minute.  Dr.  Schaff 
observed,  to  his  astonishment,  one  of  these  very  dervishes 
beastly  drunk  in  Constantinople  the  next  day,  notwithstand- 
ing their  code  eschews  all  intoxicating  liquors. 

On  entering  the  mosque  I  have  been  required  to  take  off 
my  shoes  and  put  on  slippers,  for  which  the  priest  would 
expect  a  fee ;  but  nothing  is  said  about  removing  the  hat. 
"  Put  off  thy  shoes  from  off  thy  feet,  for  the  place  whereon 


The  Mohammedan  Religion  and  Christianity.       157 

thuu  standest  is  holy  ground."  You  hardly  ever  see  a 
\\onian  in  these  mosques.  I  have  never  seen  one  myself. 
The  Koran  does  not  enjoin  them  to  pray.  "By  some  it  is 
doubted  whether  they  have  souls."  But  a  Mussulman  is 
allowed  any  number  of  wives  if  he  wants  to  keep  them. 
The  position  of  woman  in  home-life  among  Christians  at 
once  establishes  the  preeminent  claims  of  the  Christian  civ- 
ilization. Polygamy  reduces  woman  to  slavery  and  to  end- 
less misery  in  domestic  life.  Mohammed  had  fifteen  wives 
and  concubines.  He  was  temperate;  lived  on  dates  and 
water,  and  his  wives  lived  around  him  in  cottages.  Many 
of  his  successors  drink  whisky  and  live  in  fine  houses,  filled 
with  eunuchs  and  idle  women.  Brigham  Young,  who  died 
in  1877,  had  nineteen  wives  and  over  fifty  children,  and  left 
an  immense  fortune.  He  was  the  American  Mohammed. 
Mohammed  conquered,  plundered,  and  enslaved  much  of  the 
old  Bible-land,  reducing  it  to  a  dreary  waste  by  mere  brute 
force;  but  Islam  has  ceased  to  be  a  terror  and  an  insult  to 
Europe.  Mohammedanism  must  be  conquered  by  the  su- 
perior forces  of  our  civilization — if  not  eventually  by  force 
of  arms — before  it  will  yield  its  deadly  hatred  to  the  Chris- 
tian religion.  We  must  not  suppose  that  Egypt  has  ever  at 
any  period  been  thoroughly  converted  to  Christ.  "  Her  early 
churches,  like  her  false  gods,  became  mummified  and  buried 
in  her  tombs."  Hence,  Islam  had  an  easy  conquest,  ob- 
serves Dr.  Schaff.  But  there  are  said  to  be  in  Egypt  yet 
about  half  a  million  of  the  old  Christians,  or  Copts,  who 
are  among  the  educated  classes,  but  whose  religion  is  full  of 
forms  and  ceremonies,  having  long  since  become  petrified. 

The  missionary  work  seems  to  have  been  inaugurated 
here  about  one  hundred  years  ago  by  the  Moravians ;  but 
all  efforts  had  failed  until  the  United  Presbyterian  Church 
began  their  work  among  the  Copts  about  thirty  years  since. 
They  commenced  by  teaching  and  instructing  the  children 


158  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

at  Cairo  and  Alexandria  up  to  1865.  Finally  a  seminary 
at  Assioot,  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt,  was  established  for 
the  training  of  the  native  clergy.  They  have  now  many 
self-supporting  churches  and  valuable  property  even  here 
in  Cairo,  opposite  Shepheard's  Hotel.  It  has  taken  firm 
root  now,  and  Presbyterian  ism  appears  to  be  the  only  ag- 
gressive form  of  Protestantism.  They  have  about  forty 
schools,  and  I  do  not  know  the  number  of  pupils  and  con- 
verts, throughout  Egypt.  But,  as  there  are  four  million  of 
the  five  million  inhabitants  followers  of  Mohammed,  there  • 
is  a  broad  field  here  for  Christian  work. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

FROM  CAIRO  TO  JOPPA — ISMAILIA  AND  PORT  SAID. 

MUCH  of  the  history  of  Egypt  is  like  its  great  deserts 
— a  dreary  waste,  with  the  figures  of  its  kings  on  its 
monuments,  worshiping  animal  gods,  their  victories  and 
meritorious  achievements.  The  people  themselves  were  sim- 
ply a  mass  of  slaves,  used  as  machines  in  times  of  peace  and 
war.  Dr.  Schaif  says  there  are  three  important  epochs  in  its 
chronology,  between  the  history  of  ancient  Egypt  and  the 
Bible  history  of  Israel — the  visit  of  Abraham,  the  history 
of  Joseph,  and  the  Exodus  under  Moses.  After  the  Exodus, 
Egypt  is  not  mentioned  in  the  Bible  till  the  time  of  Solo- 
mon, who  married  a  daughter  of  Pharaoh,  and  brought  her 
into  the  City  of  David  (1  Kings  iii.  1).  The  Egyptians 
themselves  appear  to  have  had  no  chronology.  Like  the 
Chinese,  they  boasted  of  great  antiquity.  They  numbered 
their  years  by  the  reign  of  the  king.  Menes,  their  first 
king,  is  said  to  have  ruled  5004  B.C. ;  acccording  to  an- 
other authority,  the  historian  Rawlinson,  2450  B.C. — a 
great  discrepancy,  I  should  observe,  between  dates  in  her 


From  Cairo  to  Joppa — Ismailia  and  Port  Said.     159 

chronology.  Many  of  these  ages  and  kings  seem  mythical, 
and  nothing  worthy  of  credence  appears  before  the  time  of 
Solomon,  about  1000  B.C.  The  account  of  Abraham's  visit, 
as  given  in  the  Bible,  agrees  with  all  that  is  known  of  the 
Pharaohs.  It  appears  there  is  no  mention  on  their  monu- 
uments  of  Moses  and  the  humiliation  that  overtook  tne 
king  in  his  pursuit  of  the  Israelites.  "  The  Egyptians  never 
mention  the  defeat  of  their  armies. 

On  the  25th  of  March  occurs  the  anniversary  of  the  birth, 
as  well  as  the  death,  of  the  prophet  Mohammed.  It  is  the 
holiest  of  all  the  holy  days  during  the  year.  At  the  close 
of  this  holiday,  a  most  inhuman  practice  occurs,  of  fanat- 
ical Arabs,  or  followers  of  the  prophet,  prostrating  them- 
selves at  full  length  on  their  faces  on  a  certain  avenue, 
packed  and  jammed  close  together,  to  allow  the  sheiks,  or 
holy  men,  to  ride  over  them  on  horseback — merely  to  test 
their  faith  and  to  receive  the  enthusiasm  of  the  crowd  that 
awaits  them.  They  are  told  that  if  under  any  guilt,  the  sin 
will  be  atoned  by  this  act,  and  that  a  great  reward  awaits 
them  in  paradise.  The  pretty,  black-eyed  women  of  the 
Harem  will  come  out  and  applaud  this  heroism.  They  be- 
lieve every  word  the  sheik  has  told  them.  If  any  of  these 
poor  wretches  ever  die — and  I  suppose  a  number  do — nothing 
will  ever  be  said  or  done  about  it.  The  last  night  of  the 
festivities,  a  great  display  of  fireworks  and  a  performance 
of  the  dancing  dervishes  takes  place,  in  honor  of  Moham- 
med's birthday.  I  did  not  witness  the  dosee,  nor  did  I  de- 
sire much  to  see  such  a  barbarous  spectacle. 

In  leaving  Egypt,  my  eyes  linger  on  its  historical  river. 
For  eight  hundred  miles  it  flows  between  narrow  valleys  of 
perpendicular  walls  of  granite,  without  a  single  tributary. 
From  the  summit  of  these  heights,  or  walls,  on  either  side, 
stretches  away  the  boundless  desert.  Below  Cairo  the  Nile 
divides  into  the  Rosetta  and  Damietta  branches,  that  flow 


160  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

off  in  different  directions  to  the  Mediterranean ;  and  the 
Delta  opens  like  a  fan  between  them,  blooming  like  a  gar- 
den to  the  sea-shore.  It  is  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  broad. 

For  sixty  or  seventy  miles  after  leaving  Cairo,  we  behold 
still  the  deepest  verdure — the  most  luxuriant  fields  of  beard- 
ed wheat — I  had  supposed  it  was  barley — fields  of  onions, 
sugar-cane,  cotton,  and  vegetables ;  but  I  have  seen  no  Indiao 
corn.  The  wheat  and  barley  are  the  corn  so  often  referred 
to  in  the  Bible.  I  have  eaten  the  most  delicious  oranges, 
bananas,  etc.,  at  the  stations,  where  you  see  the  women  bear- 
ing baskets  full  on  their  heads.  You  can  buy  this  fruit  at 
five  cents  per  dozen.  The  large  number  of  Arab  women, 
boys,  girls,  and  men  engaged  in  this  traffic  is  astonishing. 
Chickens  and  eggs  are  very  abundant,  a  dozen  of  the  lat- 
ter being  offered  for  six  cents — hard-boiled.  A  flat  cake 
of  dark  bread  is  usually  eaten  by  the  natives.  The  entire 
crop  of  sugar  appears  to  be  made  up  into  candy  and  sweets, 
in  the  most  fanciful  designs. 

The  water-carrier,  throughout  Egypt,  will  attract  your 
attention.  The  first  time  I  saw  this  institution  dispensing 
the  grateful  beverage  along  the  train  to  hundreds  of  thirsty 
Arabs,  I  thought  of  Dwinell's  visit  to  Egypt,  some  years 
ago.  My  friend  at  first  supposed  it  to  be  a  dead  hog  the 
man  had  on  his  back.  The  skin  seems  to  be  taken  off  the 
animal  whole,  with  the  legs  and  head  sewed  up  and  filled 
with  water.  I  was  about  to  hold  my  nose  when  this  man 
approached  an  Arab  squatted  on  the  ground,  who  was  wait- 
ing for  a  drink.  He  held  both  hands  up  to  his  mouth,  into 
which  the  water  was  poured  by  drawing  the  bucket  just  a 
little  around. 

You  see  many  curious  sights  along  the  railroad  that  re- 
mind you  of  the  task-masters  and  the  heavy  burdens  once 
imposed  on  the  poor  Israelites.  You  observe  women  making 


From  Cairo  to  Joppa — Ismailia  and  Port  Said.     161 

up  brick  with  straw  and  laying  them  out  in  the  sun  to  dry. 
1  saw  larg\  numbers  bearing  bundles  of  cotton-stalks  on 
their  heads  to  their  squalid  mud  villages  for  fuel.  Here 
you  behold  a  more  degrading  spectacle  still — the  poor 
mothers  with  their  little  daughters  running  behind  animals 
that  pass,  gathering  up  their  deposits,  which  they  first  prepare 
with  their  hands,  then  fresco  the  sides  of  their  miserable 
abodes.  Eemember  this,  you  people  of  Georgia  who  com- 
plain of  your  lot,  with  your  forests  of  timber  and  inexhaust- 
ible mines  of  coal.  I  have  seen  naked  boys  and  girls  bath- 
ing in  a  stagnant  pool,  others  drinking  the  water,  while  some  * 
were  watering  their  camels,  and  a  woman  bearing  a  bucket 
of  the  same  water  to  her  house.  I  saw  a  buffalo  cow  plowing 
or  pulling  a  plow,  while  a  camel  and  a  small  donkey  were 
drawing  another,  yoked  together.  There  were  trains  of  cam- 
els and  asses  led  or  driven  along  the  road  to  market,  loaded 
with  the  products  of  the  farm,  with  the  sneaking  cur.  fit 
emblem  of  his  master's  degradation,  following  stealthily  in 
his  rear. 

Clover  ripens  here  in  January,  and  two  crops  of  alfalfa 
are  produced  on  the  same  ground  in  one  season.  All  crops 
are  irrigated  either  by  hand  or  by  raising  the  wrater  from 
the  canals  by  power.  The  English  have  introduced  a  few 
steam-engines;  but  the  natives  cannot  use  them.  Wherever 
you  look,  this  incessant  toil  of  irrigation  is  visible.  Two 
men  swing  a  basket,  made  like  a  tray,  by  ropes,  scooping 
the  water  up  into  the  little  trenches  that  conduct  it  through 
the  growing  crops.  But  the  most  striking  objects  are  the 
water-wheels.  These  are  worked  along-side  of  the  canals 
that  checker  the  Delta  every  where.  The  water,  being  several 
feet  below  the  surface,  has  to  be  raised.  Sometimes  you 
see  a  man  dipping  it  up  in  a  bucket  and  pouring  it  into  a 
little  ditch  that  communicates  with  his  little  field.  But  the 
wheel  worked  by  the  camel,  more  commonly  by  the  buffalo 
11 


162  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

cow,  is  almost  universally  used.  I  examined  several  of 
them — they  are  the  rudest  pieces  of  machinery  you  can  im- 
agine. The  wheel,  with  its  shaft  and  cogs,  resembles  our 
old-fashioned  gin-gear.  On  the  band- wheel  is  worked  an 
endless  chain  or  belt  of  buckets  or  earthen  jars,  which  ele- 
vates the  water  as  it  revolves,  emptying,  when  the  wheel 
starts  downward,  into  a  trough,  from  which  it  is  conveyed 
into  the  fields.  But  some  of  the  wheels  are  constructed  with 


A   WATER-WHEEL. 


a  hollow  rim,  full  of  buckets  that  are  constantly  filling  and 
discharging  themselves  as  they  reach  the  proper  elevation. 

We  are  leaving  the  green  fields,  dotted  with  their  clusters 
of  palms;  the  mud  villages,  with  their  little  domes  and 
minarets — this  teeming  land  of  wealth  and  beauty — far  be- 
hind us.  The  lofty  pyramids  have  long  since  disappeared, 
and  the  whole  of  the  Delta  is  sinking  below  our  vision.  We 
change  cars  at  Zagazeg  for  Ismailia,  and  are  whirling  across 
the  boundless  plains  of  the  desert.  Near  Zagazeg  was 
fought  the  decisive  battle  of  the  late  Egyptian  war.  The 


From  Cairo  to  Joppa — Ismailia  and  Port  Said.     163 

English  troops,  under  Gen.  Wolseley,  defeated  Arabi  Pasha's 
army,  and  he  himself  was  made  a  prisoner.  The  Egyptian 
general  had  moved  his  army  from  Alexandria  by  the  rail- 
road, destroying  it  behind  him,  to  prevent  pursuit  by  the 
enemy.  But  imagine  Arabi  Pasha's  surprise  to  find  the 
English  confronting  him  near  Zagazeg  when  he  had  brought 
up  his  rear  in  such  confusion.  While  he  was  moving  on 
the  railroad,  the  entire  English  forces  were  moved  by  large 
transports,  with  their  men-of-wrar,  up  the  coast  and  through 
the  canal  to  Ismailia,  then  down  by  railroad  to  the  battle- 
field. It  was  a  masterly  piece  of  strategy  on  the  part  of  the 
British  general.  The  main  line  runs  on  to  Suez,  while  Is- 
mailia is  connected  by  a  short  branch  of  two  miles.  This 
is  a  pleasantly  situated  village  on  Lake  Timsah,  about  mid- 
dle way  the  Suez  Canal.  Its  green,  refreshing  shade  lends 
a  charm  to  the  desert  all  around  about  us. 

In  two  hours  we  take  a  small  boat  for  Port  Said,  the  westj 
ern  terminus  of  the  canal,  where  we  connect  to-morrow  with 
a  large  steamer  of  the  Austrian  Lloyds,  for  Jaffa.  It  is 
night,  so  we  reserve  a  description  for  our  return  voyage, 
which  we  must  make  through  this  canal  to  reach  India. 

If  Port  Said  is  noted  for  any  thing,  it  must  be  its  numer- 
ous hotels,  its  pretty  public  garden,  its  clean,  broad  streets, 
and  nargile-shops.  Here  the  Turks  and  Arabs  smoke  and 
gossip  the  livelong  day.  The  pipes  are  kept  for  rent,  filled 
with  water,  tobacco,  and  fire,  and  by  the  clerk  or  propri- 
etor set  before  his  customer,  who  sits  down  cross-legged,  takes 
the  end  of  the  long  rubber  stem,  and  draws  the  smoke 
through  the  globe  of  water  with  perfect  satisfaction.  He 
invariably  sips  a  cup  of  coffee  in  the  meantime,  which  adds 
an  Oriental  air  of  dignity  to  the  custom.  I  here  saw  some 
beautiful  golden  pheasants,  paroquets,  and  other  birds. 
Ostrich-plumes  are  for  sale  in  many  of  the  shop  windows. 
There  is  a  fine  variety  of  fish  at  the  numerous  restaurants 


164  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

on  the  streets,  with  bread,  fruits,  and  onions,  which  are  sold 
very  cheap.  But  I  should  not  like  to  live  at  Port  Said, 
among  these  nargile-smoking  Arabs.  I  might  exist  one 
day  on  the  beautiful  views  of  the  blue  Mediterranean. 

The  dredging  and  making  of  this  harbor  at  Port  Said,  by 
De  Lesseps,  is  one  of  the  great  achievements  of  modern  en- 
gineering. It  was  no  less  wonderful  than  the  digging  of  the 
canal.  Two  jetties,  known  as  the  east  and  west  walls,  were 
thrown  out  nearly  one  mile  in  length,  being  nearly  half  a  mile 
apart  at  their  respective  ends.  Between  these  arms,  or  walls, 
was  formed  a  harbor  or  basin,  five  hundred  acres  in  extent, 
through  which  all  ships  must  enter  the  mouth  of  the  canal. 
They  made  the  blocks  of  stone  for  the  jetties,  or  walls,  of 
lime-rock,  which  they  ground  up  fine  in  mills;  then  it  was 
molded  into  blocks  in  wooden  casings,  which  were  removed 
after  they  had  hardened  under  the  sun's  rays. 

While  here,  I  spent  several  hours  very  agreeably  with  the 
American  consul,  above  whose  office  floated  the  American 
flag.  After  fifteen  hours. up  the  Mediterranean,  we  sighted 
the  mountains  of  Judea. 


CHAPTER  xv. 

LANDING  AT  JAFFA — THROUGH  THE  CITY. 

WE  were  yet  some  distance  out  at  sea  when  we  beheld 
the  coast-line,  the  city  of  Jaffa,  and  the  mountains 
of  Judea  beyond.  But  I  felt  I  was  approaching  a  land 
consecrated  by  the  foot-prints  of  our  blessed  Lord.  Here 
he  had  taught  his  disciples,  lived,  and  died.  Here  were 
Bethlehem  and  Calvary — the  manger  where  he  was  born, 
and  the  sepulcher  where  he  was  laid  after  his  crucifixion, 
which,  although  hewn  in  solid  rock,  was  unable  to  hold 
his  lifeless  form  when  the  hour  had  come  for  his  resurrec- 
tion. When  we  had  anchored  within  a  mile  of  the  shore, 


Landing  at  Jaffa—  Through  the  City. 


163  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Jaffa  rose  in  majestic  beauty  before  me.  From  the  poop  of 
our  ship  I  saw  to  the  south  the  land  of  the  Philistines, 
"where  Samson  and  David  fought  and  Philip  preached." 
To  the  north,  up  the  coast-line,  towered  in  lofty  grandeur 
Mount  Carmel,  which  probably  commemorates  the  place 
of  Elijah's  sacrifice.  Between  Jaifa  and  the  mountains  of 
Ephraim  stretch  away  the  beautiful  valley,  or  plain,  of 
Sharon,  over  which  we  must  travel  to  reach  Jerusalem. 
Jaffa  is  the  oldest  sea-port  in  the  world.  From  here  Jonah 
embarked  for  Tarshish ;  here  the  cedar  for  Solomon's  Tem- 
ple was  landed — for  this  was  the  only  sea-port  of  Palestine. 
But  why  longer  indulge  in  such  pleasant  meditations? 
It  is  utterly  impossible.  I  cannot  even  think.  A  dozen  of 
these  noisy  Arabs  are  scuffling  over  my  baggage,  and  a 
hundred  more  are  pushing  off  from  shore.  They  fight, 
scream,  and  shout,  and  then  come  to  blows.  Finally,  they 
began  to  gather  hold  of  the  passengers.  I  was  not  angry ; 
I  was  provoked.  I  just  drew  back  and  pulverized  one  of 
them.  Then  they  all  began  to  reconsider.  It  was  only  the 
calmest  reflection  that  preserved  the  memory  of  that  naked 
vagabond  to  posterity.  Here  I  was  approaching  the  Holy 
Land  with  all  the  solemnity  due  the  occasion,  with  my  eyes 
even  resting  on  the  house-top  of  one  Simon  the  tanner,  on 
the  spot  where  Noah  had  built  his  ark,  and  where  the  lowered 
'sheet  appeared  in  Peter's  vision!  I  tried  to  think  of  the 
jjfood  Dorcas  and  Tabitha,  whose  memories  are  still  cher- 
ished in  veneration  by  millions  of  Christian  people  in  my 
own  land.  They  had  once  lived  here.  I  saw  it  was  no 
use,  so  we  employed  a  half  dozen  of  these  heathens  to  row 
us  ashore. 

Sometimes  the  sea  is  so  rough  the  steamers  cannot  land 
here ;  they  must  proceed  on  to  Beyroot.  It  required  four 
oarsmen  with  brawny  arms  to  put  us  safely  through  the 
rocks  on  the  shore.  The  surf  was  very  high,  and  the  men 


Landing  at  Jaffa — Through  the  City.  167 

almost  touched  the  rocks  on  either  side  the  narrow  pass  as 
we  pushed  through.  It  must  have  been  a  better  harbor  in 
the  days  of  Solomon,  when  Hiram  landed  the  cedars  from 
Lebanon  for  the  Temple  at  Jerusalem.  I  would  as  soon 
attempt  Scylla  and  Charybdis  of  a  rough  day.  But  these 
rocks  are  disarmed  of  the  very  terror  they  inspire  by  the 
pretty  legend  with  which  tradition  has  clothed  them.  Here 
Andromeda  was  once  chained  some  thousands  of  years  ago, 
to  be  devoured  by  a  terrible  sea-monster.  You  could  al- 
most discern  the  print  of  the  chains — that  is,  see  where 
they  ought  to  be — as  your  heart  goes  out  in  sympathy  for 
this  mythical  girl  who  never  had  any  existence.  But  we 
liked  to  have  shed  tears  over  the  pretty  story,  and  thought 
how  we  should  have  killed  that  monster,  but  heard  that 
Perseus  had  done  it.  I  never  felt  such  relief  before.  When 
we  scrambled  up  the  steep  bluff,  with  our  imposing  retinue 
of  Arabs  in  the  rear,  we  could  scarcely  pass  for  the  train  of 
camels  pressing  along  the  narrow  streets  on  the  bluff  loaded 
with  boxes  of  oranges,  goat-skins  of  wine  (wine-jars),  skins 
of  oil,  soap,  baskets  of  eggs,  ducks,  geese,  and  poultry,  to 
be  taken  by  the  little  boats  to  our  steamer. 

A  large  number  of  Cook's  tourists — half  a  hundred  or 
more — had  just  landed  ahead  of  us.  They  had  proceeded  to 
Ramleh,  and  gone  into  camps.  These  tours  are  organized 
in  Europe  and  America — New  York  and  London.  A  ticket 
is  issued  for  the  whole  tour,  with  coupons  attached  for  rail- 
roads, hotels,  steamers,  guides,  etc.,  including  all  expenses — 
except  incidentals — at  a  stated  price  to  each  person.  I  pre- 
fer to  travel  privately,  make  my  own  schedules  of  time  at 
different  places,  employ  my  own  guides,  stay  as  long  as  I 
please,  or  leave  when  I  am  fatigued.  It  is  less  expensive, 
and  there  is  more  comfort  in  it.  A  party  of  five,  or  even 
three,  I  prefer  to  thirty. 

We  toiled  up  narrow,  dirty  streets,  ill  paved  with  cobble- 


168  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

stones,  among  donkeys,  turbaned  Arabs,  veiled  women,  de- 
nuded children  that  smelled — well — like  Arabs.  Filth  and 
poverty!  The  city  even  had  lost  its  picturesqueness  from 
the  sea.  It  was  now  only  rich  in  historic  associations  to 
me.  Here  was  the  old  well  from  which  the  women  were 
bearing  away  jars  of  water  upon  their  heads,  just  as  they 
had  done  since  the  days  of  the  good  Dorcas.  Here  the 
camels  and  little  donkeys  were  drinking  out  of  the  great 
stone  basin.  Here  the  people  of  Jaffa  and  pilgrims  on  to 
Jerusalem  were  bathing  their  faces  and  hands,  and  even 
their  bodies.  Some  were  drawing  up  the  water  with  the  old 
Georgia  sweep,  while  others  were  filling  up  the  jars.  I  have 
seen  this  same  old  style  of  well-sweep  in  lower  Georgia  and 
Florida  many  a  time.  We  pass  through  the  market,  where 
the  people  are  all  squatted  on  the  paved  court  selling  their 
wares,  fruits,  and  vegetables.  The  oranges  are  magnificent. 
A  few  hundred  yards  through  the  sand,  in  rear  of  Jaffa, 
brought  us  to  the  Good  Samaritan  Inn  of  Mrs.  Holla  Floyd. 
Here  we  rest  for  the  clay,  and  shall  go  up  to  Jerusalem  at 
night.  Nearly  all  travel  here  is  done  after  sunset.  It  is 
too  warm  in  the  day.  Mr.  Floyd  is  absent  with  a  party  of 
tourists.  He  and  his  good  lady  are  Americans,  both  most 
estimable  people,  and  Mr.  Floyd  is  considered  the  best  drago- 
man in  Palestine.  My  room  looks  out  over  the  orange-groves 
on  the  Mediterranean.  The  view  is  perfectly  grand.  I  feel 
an  air  of  comfort  already  that  reminds  me  of  home.  I  hear 
the  poultry  cackling,  the  birds  singing  in  the  trees — sweet 
harbingers  of  spring.  We  enjoy  a  glorious  dinner  of  salads, 
the  crispest  lettuce,  Irish  potatoes,  English  peas,  fried  eggs 
and  ham,  with  the  best  of  bread  and  butter.  Is  not  this 
home?  The  climate  here  is  the  latitude  of  Palatka,  Flor- 
ida. 

Mr.  Frank,  a  Texan,  who  had  been  my  companion  on 
the  voyage  from  Port  Said,  stopped  with  me  for  the  day. 


(168) 


ARABIAN  RAZAR. 


Landing  at  Jaffa— Through  the  City.  169 

At  Mrs.  Floyd's  we  met  another  Southerner — Mr.  Howard, 
from  Florida.  This  gentleman  was  here  studying  the 
Syrian  honey-bee,  which  he  pronounced  unequaled  in  the 
world.  He  will  take  back  a  large  number  of  queens  on  his 
return.  "  There  is  no  country  equal  to  this,"  remarked  Mr. 
Howard,  "for  honey.  The  flowers  are  blooming  the  year 
round." 

Jaffa  is  the  ancient  Joppa  of  the  Bible.  It  has  a  popula- 
tion of  twenty-two  thousand,  two  thousand  or  more  of  whom 
are  Christians.  It  rises  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheater, 
surrounded  on  top  by  a  castle.  It  was  fortified  by  Louis 
IX.  in  the  thirteenth  century,  and  captured  in  1799  by 
Xapoleon  after  a  murderous  siege.  Outside  of  its  histor- 
ical associations  and  its  lovely  orange-groves,  there  is  not 
much  to  be  seen  in  Jaffa. 

Three  miles  from  the  city,  at  Sarona,  is  located  the  Ger- 
man Colony,  which,  like  the  one  at  Haifa,  was  founded  by 
the  Temple  Society  some  years  ago.  There  is  a  general  air 
of  cleanliness  and  progress  about  their  villages,  their  gar- 
dens, fields,  and  vineyards  that  exerts  a  civilizing  influence 
over  the  natives.  They  have  a  smaller  colony  in  the  sub- 
urbs of  Jaffa  engaged  in  gardening,  cultivation  of  the  vine, 
oranges,  etc.,  that  has  proved,  like  the  one  at  Sarona,  highly 
successful.  They  have  introduced  improved  machinery. 
This  colony  also  owns  the  hack  line  from  here  to  Jerusalem, 
so  we  are  informed.  Besides  the  German,  the  Jews  have 
established  about  nine  colonies — most  of  them  within  the 
past  two  years — in  different  parts  of  Palestine. 

There  is  a  large  Agricultural  College  near  here,  founded 
by  the  Israelites  for  the  education  of  Jewish  youths  in  ag- 
ricultural pursuits.  It  stands  a  little  off  the  road  to  our 
right  as  we  go  to  Jerusalem — a  large,  attractive  building, 
with  pretty  grounds  and  avenues,  the  latter  ornamented 
with  bamboo  and  the  eucalyptus,  both  of  which  have  been 


170  Around  the  World  in  18S4. 

introduced  from  foreign  countries,  and  form  a  striking  feat- 
ure in  the  landscape.  It  is  to  be  hoped,  as  a  taste  for  agri- 
culture is  formed  in  their  collegiate  education,  the  Jewish 
boys  will  not  emulate  our  Georgia  graduates  by  engaging 
in  other  pursuits  than  agricultural.  From  all  we  can  learn 
there  is  a  broad,  undeveloped  field  here  for  the  most  ambi- 
tious students  who  may  practically  engage  in  its  pursuit. 
Most  of  these  Jews  come  from  Russia  and  Roumania.  Two 
of  the  colonies  have  been  established  under  the  protection 
of  Baron  Rothschild,  and  will  be  enabled  to  encounter  all 
the  pecuniary  embarrassments  which  some  of  the  less  fort- 
unate have  suffered. 

The  Jews  are  returning  to  Palestine,  and  those  Germans 
in  the  colony  here,  who  number  probably  four  hundred 
souls,  have  come  under  a  belief  "that  all  Christians  should 
live  here." 

Jaffa,  being  the  sea-port  of  Judea  now,  as  it  was  in  the  days 
of  Solomon,  may  assume,  under  its  liberal  governor,  consider- 
able commercial  importance  as  well  as  population.  It  has 
already  doubled  in  the  past  eight  years  from  immigration 
and  increase. 

I  have  been  delighted  with  the  gardens  of  a  German 
baron  just  across  the  street,  in  which  may  be  seen  many  rare 
exotics,  plants  and  flowers,  growing  in  the  open  air.  The 
princely  owner  is  greatly  esteemed  for  his  liberality  and 
many  munificent  donations.  Just  now  he  is  out  from  Eu- 
rope, enjoying  this  delightful  winter  climate,  the  blush  and 
bloom  of  his  charming  gardens. 

I  had  stood  on  the  house-top  of  Simon  the  tanner,  "close 
by  the  sea,"  and  looked  down  in  his  old  rock  well,  from 
which  he  probably  conveyed  water  to  his  vats,  that  have 
been  discovered  just  below7.  I  am  sure  the  roof  I  saw  is 
not  the  flat  roof  Peter  slept  on,  or  in  his  dreams  saw7  a 
"lowered  sheet."  It  is  a  new  roof,  but  is  just  like  the 


Landing  at  Jaffa — Through  the  City.  171 

old  one,  and  that  answers  every  purpose.  This  spot  is  well 
identified  by  the  Bible  account  of  it.  I  wish  all  the  tradi- 
tions I  have  tried  to  believe  of  it  were  as  true.  I  am  sure 
Peter  drank  out  of  this  old  rock  well.  I  took  a  drink  out  of 
it  before  I  left.  My  guide  intimated  the  remains  of  a  lake 
somewhere,  now  dried  up,  where  the  cedars  were  landed. 
I  did  not  see  this  spot,  or  the  spot  where  "Jonah  swallowed 
the  whale"  but  I  examined  the  town  pretty  thoroughly. 

I  visited  Miss  Arnot's  school  for  girls.  I  spent  a  delightful 
hour  hearing  them  sing.  Thirty  little  Arab  girls,  all  tidy 
and  neat  as  the»y  could  be!  There  were  several  with  ebony 
hair  and  eyes  jet  black,  with  olive  complexions,  dressed  like 
Christian  girls,  who  looked  just  charming  to  me.  It  was 
one  Sunday  afternoon,  when  our  pretty  girls  and  handsome 
boys  are  all  supposed  to  be  attending  Sunday-school  at 
home,  that  I  heard  these  little  Arab  children  sing.  And 
what  do  you  suppose  they  sung  for  me?  The  same  songs 
you  hear  in  America:  "Jesus,  lover  of  my  soul,"  and 
"O  how  I  love  Jesus!"  "Jesus  loves  me,"  and  other  pret- 
ty airs  in  English.  It  was  a  scene  calculated  to  fill  the 
most  unrelenting  eyes  with  tears  to  hear  such  songs  chanted 
in  sweetest  melody.  They  seemed  to  echo  back  from  Cal- 
vary over  the  hills  from  Jerusalem,  only  thirty-six  miles 
away. 

Miss  Arnot  invited  me  to  make  a  short  address,  which 
she  would  interpret,  or  translate,  into  Arabic.  I  told  them 
about  our  girls  and  Sunday-schools  at  home ;  how  they  loved 
the  same  Jesus,  who  was  born  over  yonder  at  Bethlehem ; 
how  they  prayed  for  the  little  Arab  girls  in  Palestine,  etc. 
At  the  conclusion  the  entire  school  arose  and  bowed,  return- 
ing thanks  in  Arabic.  During  this  interesting  occasion  a 
woman  with  her  little  baby  had  quietly  entered  an  ante- 
room that  opened  into  the  chapel.  I  had  heard  the  plaint- 
ive wailings,  and  even  observed  the  poor  mother  trying  to 


172  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

quiet  it;  but  it  never  disturbed  me.  Miss  Arnot  apologized 
for  the  supposed  annoyance,  remarking  that  was  one  of  her 
oldest  pupils,  who  sometimes  loved  to  return  to  the  scenes  of 
her  school-days.  See,  she  has  brought  her  little  baby.  God 
grant  that  its  little  steps,  like  its  Christian  mother's,  may  be 
guided  in  the  paths  of  truth  and  righteousness ! 

Miss  Aruot,  a  brave  and  dauntless  girl,  came  out  here  some 
twenty-five  years  ago,  I  believe,  from  Scotland,  investing 
her  means  and  some  contributions  from  friends  of  the  enter- 
prise in  this  noble  educational  work.  She  erected  this 
splendid  structure  as  a  girls'  boarding-school,  through  which 
she  showed  us  every  department  now  in  successful  opera- 
tion. Her  sister  has  come  to  help  her,  and  I  noticed  an- 
other young  lady  recently  out  from  Europe.  This  school, 
like  Miss  Baldwin's  here  (American),  has  been  eminently 
successful.* 

Mr.  Deems,  my  guide,  is  an  Arab  gentleman  of  consider- 
able intelligence,  and  a  good  Christian.  He  sends  a  little 
daughter  to  Miss  Arnot's  school ;  but  he  remarked  "  there 
were  Arabs  wrho  would  kill  their  children  before  they  would 
send  them  to  a  Christian  school."  Mussulmans,  of  course. 

There  are  one  thousand  orange-groves,  gardens  of  pome- 
granates and  figs,  in  the  suburbs  of  Jaffa.  The  middle  of 
March  I  found  the  trees  hanging  with  fruit  and  blooming 
for  a  new  crop.  Mr.  Deems  carried  me  through  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  groves,  which  consisted  of  three  acres  or 
less,  in  which  I  found  trees  of  an  immense  size,  growing 
only  ten  to  fifteen  feet  apart,  very  irregularly.  The  fruit 
was  as  bright  as  an  English  sovereign,  the  rust  or  parasite 
being  unknown  here  as  far  as  I  could  ascertain.  I  meas- 
ured one  orange  fifteen  inches  in  circumference,  and  parties 
assured  me  they  attain  to  a  larger  size.  The  soil  was  a  deep, 
black  alluvium,  underlaid  shell  drawn  three  feet  from 
around  every  tree,  leaving  a  hole  for  the  winter  rains.  The 

*  Miss  Baldwin  is  a  Virginia  lady. 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem. 


same  method  prevails  in  Sicily,  sometimes  varied  by  horizon- 
tal ridges  instead  of  holes  around  the  trees  to  retain  the  rain 
or  well-water  for  irrigation.  I  do  riot  think  the  average  of  the 
Jaffa  trees  will  exceed  seven  hundred  to  one  thousand  oranges. 
The  fruit  I  examined  was  of  a  beautiful  oval  or  oblong  shape, 
with  moderately  thin  peel.  They  had  lost  some  of  the 
delicious  flavor  claimed  for  them  by  the  continued  winter 
rains.  I  saw  no  symptoms  of  "charbon,  or  insect,"  so  com- 
mon in  Sicily  and  Florida.  The  oranges  are  sold  on  the 
streets  at  three  to  five  cents  per  dozen.  The  peel  is  still 
used  for  fuel  and  tanning.  Miss  Arnot  showed  me  a  quan- 
tity she  was  drying  on  her  flat  roof  for  the  kitchen.  No 
doubt  Simon  used  this  kind  of  bark  in  his  day,  and  it  is  cer- 
tain these  were  the  "golden  apples"  alluded  to  in  Solomon's 
time. 

There  is  a  large  species  of  the  citrus  family  cultivated  ex- 
tensively here  by  the  Jews,  known  as  "gethrogim,"  or  gi- 
gantic citrons,  that  bring  fabulous  prices  in  Europe  on  fes- 
tival occasions  if  it  can  be  guaranteed  they  come  from  the 
Holy  Land. 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

FROM  JAFFA  TO  JERUSALEM — ORANGE  CULTURE — AN- 
CIENT AND  MODERN  TIMES  CONTRASTED — HABITS, 
CUSTOMS,  ETC.,  OF  THE  PEOPLE. 

TT'OR  much  of  the  following  information  I  have  been  placed 
JL  under  obligations  to  my  admirable  dragoman,  Mr.  Holla 
Floyd,  who  gave  me  copies  of  the  Boston  Messiah's  Herald, 
in  which  a  number  of  his  letters  from  Palestine  appeared. 
Rev.  J.  M.  Orrock,  its  excellent  editor,  has  conferred  an 
appreciated  favor  by  promptly  complying  with  Mr.  Floyd's 
request  to  forward  the  papers.  Inasmuch  as  most  of  my 
Journey  from  Jaffa  to  the  Holy  City  is  made  at  night,  this 


174    '  Around  the  World' in  1884. 

accurate  account  of  an  itinerary,  or  extracts  I  shall  use  of  the 
letters  furnished  me,  will  be  found  highly  entertaining.  Mr. 
Floyd  formerly  conducted  the  tours  of  Cook  &  Son,  of  Lon- 
don, and  is  distinguished  to-day  as  the  most  intelligent  guide 
in  Palestine.  He  came  out  from  America  in  1866 ;  speaks  the 
Arabic  as  well  as  his  own  language.  He  is  a  perfect  ency- 
clopedia of  Biblical  knowledge,  and  is  thoroughly  familiar 
with  every  spot  of  historic  interest  which  connects  the  Old 
and  New  Testaments  with  this  Bible  land.  He  carries  the 
Bible  on  the  end  of  his  tongue,  and  withal  is  a  thorough 
Christian  gentleman.  The  distance  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusa- 
lem is  twelve  hours,  or  thirty-six  miles : 

"  I  shall  begin  my  first  letter  at  and  with  the  most  ancient 
city  in  the  world — Jaffa,  Joppe,  Joppa,  or  Japho,  now  called 
by  the  natives  Yafa.  In  the  division  of  the  land,  Japho  was 
given  to  the  tribe  of  Dan  (Josh.  xix.  46).  When  King 
David  established  his  kingdom  at  Jerusalem,  Joppa  became 
the  port  of  Jerusalem.  The  city  of  Jaffa  was  surrounded 
by  a  high  wall  until  1872,  when  it  was  taken  down  and  the 
stones  sold  to  build  houses  and  shops  with.  The  bazaars 
are  almost  always  supplied  with  excellent  fruit.  The  streets 
are  so  crowded  with  camels,  donkeys,  and  lazy  men  that,  at 
times,  it  is  quite  difficult  to  pass.  Jaffa  is  indeed  a  busy 
place,  much  more  so  than  most  people  think.  It  has  several 
soap  factories  and  large  tanks  of  olive-oil.  The  oil  is 
shipped  to  all  the  important  places  in  the  East  and  to  Eu- 
rope. Large  quantities  of  wheat  and  barley  are  shipped 
from  Jaffa  to  Europe  every  year.  The  fruit  trade  is  also 
large,  and  increases  every  year.  The  city  of  Jaffa  is  sur- 
rounded on  three  sides  with  orange,  lemon,  pomegranate, 
and  other  fruit  gardens.  About  one  thousand  of  these  gar- 
dens raise  the  best  oranges  in  the  world — from  thirty 
thousand  to  one  hundred  thousand  a  year  in  each  gar- 
den. They  grow  to  an  enormous  size,  measuring  from 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  17* 

ten  to  twenty  inches  in  circumference.  The  retail  price 
for  oranges  is  three  or  four  for  a  cent,  and  from  four  to 
six  dollars  per  thousand.  The  seller  has  to  count  out  one 
thousand  five  hundred  for  every  thousand,  as  that  is  an  old 
custom.  The  buyer  always  has  the  right  to  select  the  best. 
Lemons  are  sold  four  or  five  for  one  cent;  they  are  large 
and  full  of  juice.  Pomegranates  are  generally  sold  one  for 
a  cent ;  they  are  large  and  very  handsome — full  of  little  red 
seeds,  which  are  most  delicious.  If  a  drop  of  the  juice  gets 
on  one's  clothes,  the  stains  will  never  come  out.  The  peel 
is  used  for  coloring ;  it  makes  a  very  bright  black  dye. 
Pomegranates  ripen  in  September,  lemons  in  December,  and 
oranges  in  March.  The  orange-trees  blossom  in  March, 
and  it  takes  the  orange  one  year  to  grow  and  ripen ;  they 
are  good  to  eat  for  some  months  before  they  ripen.  All 
these  gardens  are  hedged  in  by  the  cactus,  which  grows 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high  and  from  two  to  three  feet 
thick.  It  bears  a  fruit  in  summer  called  prickly  pear, 
which  is  quite  sweet  and  very  much  liked  by  the  natives. 
In  the  summer  and  autumn  (the  dry  season)  all  the  orange, 
lemon,  and  pomegranate  gardens  have  to  be  irrigated. 
Each  garden  has  a  large  well  of  water,  over  which  is  very 
primitive  machinery  to  which  the  gardener  attaches  a  mule 
to  wind  up  water.  The  water  is  first  conveyed  into  a  large 
stone  tank,  made  for  the  purpose,  and  when  filled  it  is  let 
out  and  conducted  to  each  tree  by  little  canals  made  in  the 
ground.  One-third  of  the  trees  are  watered  each  day,  and 
all  the  trees  in  each  garden  once  every  three  days.  On 
either  side  of  the  little  canals  they  raise  vegetables.  By  ir- 
rigation one  can  raise  three  and  four  crops  of  vegetables  a 
year,  and  so  can  have  vegetables  all  the  year.  Olives, 
apricots,  peaches,  quinces,  almonds,  figs,  and  grapes  grow  in 
abundance  without  irrigation.  A  few  dates  (which  grow  on 
the  palm-trees),  apples,  bananas,  grow  around  Jaffa;  but 


17G  Around  the  World  in  1S84- 

none  of  the  before-mentioned  trees  raise  more  than  one  crop 
a  year,  except  the  fig,  which  has  small  figs  in  the  early 
spring;  these  figs  drop  off  before  the  good  fruit  grows.  It 
was  called  the  '  untimely  figs,'  or  fruit  (Rev.  vi.  13). 

"  In  this  country  the  seasons  and  habits  of  the  people  are 
quite  changed  from  ours.  We  plant  in  spring;  they  in 
autumn.  We  harvest  in  autumn ;  they  in  spring.  We  feed 
our  cattle  in  winter;  they  in  summer.  Our  vegetables  die 
in  winter,  from  cold;  theirs  in  summer,  from  heat.  We 
dress  our  hands  and  feet  in  winter  to  protect  them  from  the 
cold ;  they  their  heads  in  summer  to  protect  them  from  the 
heat.  Our  farmer-women  wear  shoes  and  stockings;  theirs 
go  barefooted  and  barelegged.  We  eat  our  heartiest  meal 
in  the  day ;  they  in  the  night.  We  sit  in  chairs ;  they  on 
the  floor.  We  eat  with  knives,  forks,  and  spoons ;  they  with 
their  fingers.  We  wash  our  hands  and  face  before  eating ; 
they  after  eating.  Our  women  do  the  work  in  the  house; 
theirs  do  the  work  outdoors.  Our  women  wear  rings  on 
their  fingers;  theirs  in  their  noses  and  around  their  ankles. 
Our  women  ride ;  theirs  walk  and  carry  loads.  We  have 
rain  in  summer;  they  in  winter.  The  rainy  season  com- 
mences here  in  November  and  continues  at  .intervals  until 
April ;  so  from  April  until  November  there  is  no  rain,  and  the 
earth  becomes  like  iron  or  brass,  as  Moses  and  the  Levites 
predicted  it  would  if  the  children  of  Israel  did  not  hearken 
unto  the  Lord  their  God  (Lev.  xxvi.  15-19 ;  Deut.  xxviii.  23). 

"  We  are  now  at  the  American  Colony,  about  one  mile 
north  of  the  city  of  Jaffa ;  and  from  here  we  will  make  an 
excursion  to  the  Holy  City  (Jerusalem).  We  pass  the  Mo- 
hammedan grave-yard  just  on  our  right,  where  there  are 
several  tents  pitched  between  the  tombs.  Among  the  tombs 
of  their  relations  and  friends  the  Mohammedans  spend  their 
days  of  mourning,  also  their  days  of  rejoicing.  Many  hire 
the  blind  to  sing  by  the  side  of  the  tombs  of  their  relatives. 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  177 

That  horrid  noise  we  hear  so  often  in  their  grave-yard  is  not, 
as  the  stranger  supposes,  wild  animals  howling,  but  people 
singing.  Here  we  notice  they  bury  as  in  ancient  times. 
They  have  just  opened  an  old  grave  and  taken  out  the 
bones,  which  are  all  that  remain  of  the  last  one  buried  in 
this  tomb.  It  was  the  father  of  the  young  man  whom  they 
are  now  preparing  to  bury.  The  young  man  is  first  washed 
and  then  wrapped  in  new  white  linen;  his  feet  were  tied 
together,  and  also  his  hands,  with  the  same  stuff  as  his  body 
is  wrapped  in,  and  then  a  napkin  is  wound  around  his  face 
(John  xi.  44).  The  bones  of  the  young  man's  father  are 
put  back  in  the  grave  with  him,  and  thus  he  'sleeps  with 
his  fathers '  (2  Chron.  xxviii.  27). 

"  We  pass  through  the  market,  which  is  well  furnished 
with  fruit  and  vegetables  the  most  of  the  year.  Just  out- 
side of  the  market-place  the  muleteer  (owner  of  horses  and 
mules)  has  to  pay  toll  and  take  a  ticket  for  each  horse  or 
mule  that  travels  over  the  road  between  Jaffa  and  Jerusa- 
lem. He  has  to  pay  for  each  horse,  mule,  camel,  or  donkey 
six  cents  government  currency — equal  to  nine,  market  cur- 
rency ;  for  a  carriage  one  has  to  pay  fifty  or  sixty  cents 
each  way.  The  road  was  made  mostly  by  pressed  labor, 
and  yet  the  government  charges  toll.  What  a  government \ 
It  will  no  doubt  sound  strange  to  some  to  hear  us  speak 
of  government  currency  and  market  currency;  but  there  is 
a  great  difference.  There  is  also  different  currency  in  every 
town  and  city;  for  instance,  in  Beyroot  (one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  north  of  Jaffa)  a  napoleon — a  four-dollar  gold 
piece — goes  for  one  hundred  and  two  piasters;  in  Jaffa  for 
one  hundred  and  twenty-two;  in  Jerusalem  one  hundred  and 
seven;  in  Nablus  (forty  miles  north  of  Jerusalem)  one 
hundred  and  eighteen ;  in  Nazareth  (about  forty  miles  north 
of  Nablus)  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight;  and  at  Tiberias 
(twenty  miles  north-east  of  Nazareth)  the  napoleon  is  one 
12 


178  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

hundred  piasters.  The  before-mentioned  are  market  prices ; 
in  government  currency  the  napoleon  in  Jaffa  is  eighty-five 
piasters. 

"It  will  take  us  about  half  an  hour  to  get  through  these 
orange,  lemon,  and  pomegranate  gardens.  The  trees  are 
now  loaded  with  oranges.  About  half-way  from  the  city  to 
the  plain  we  pass  a  fountain  among  sycamore-trees,  which, 
according  to  tradition,  is  on  the  site  where  Peter  raised  Dor- 
cas (Acts  ix.  36-42).  As  we  pass  along,  on  each  side  of  the 
road  are  numerous  tamarisk-trees,  which  look  very  much 
like  our  pine.  We  soon  enter  the  Plain  of  Sharon,  which 
reaches  south  forty  miles  to  Gaza,  and  north  sixty  miles  to 
Carmel.  Its  average  width  is  about  fifteen  miles.  Where 
the  carriage-road  crosses,  it  is  about  twenty  miles  wide.  We 
soon  pass  on  our  right  the  Jewish  Agricultural  School.  Mr. 
Charles  Nctter,  of  Paris,  is  the  president  of  the  society. 
The  Plain  of  Sharon  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Medi- 
terranean Sea,  and  on  the  east  by  the  hills  of  Samaria, 
Benjamin,  and  Judea — all  of  which  are  in  full  view  from 
where  we  emerge  from  the  gardens  to  the  plain.  In  about 
half  an  hour's  travel  from  the  Jewish  farm  we  pass  a  mod- 
ern village  called  Yazur,  which  to  the  stranger  looks  like  a 
ruin.  This  village  is  said  to 'mark  the  site  of  Hazar-shual, 
of  Joshua  xix.  3.  It  is  the  traditional  site  where  Samson 
caught  the  three  hundred  foxes,  put  fire-brands  to  their  tails, 
and  let  them  go  into  the  Philistine's  grain  (Judges  xv.  4, 
5).  At  this  village  the  road  to  Lydda  branches  off  to  the 
left.  On  the  left  is  a  mosque,  and  just  opposite  on  the  right 
is  a  square  stone  building,  called  wely — the  tomb  of  a 
prophet,  pilgrim  from  Mecca,  or  one  related  to  Mohammed. 
Every  year  or  two  it  is  whitewashed,  and  reminds  one  of 
what  our  Lord  said  to  the  scribes  and  Pharisees  (Matt. 
xxiii.  27).  From  this  place  we  can  see  many  flocks  of 
sheep,  goats,  cows,  camels,  and  asses  feeding  on  the  Plain  of 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  179 

Sharon  (1  Chron.  xxvii.  29).  At  almost  any  time  that  we 
cross  this  plain  from  the  middle  of  November  until  the  end 
of  March,  we  can  see  the  fellahin  (farmers)  plowing.  A 
common  man  can  carry  on  his  shoulder  a  whole  set  of 
their  farming  utensils,  including  plow,  yoke,  bows,  and  ox- 
goad.  The  greater  part  of  their  plows  are  wood ;  the  part 
that  is  iron  looks  like  the  fluke  of  a  small  anchor.  The  yoke 
is  a  small,  straight,  round  pole,  with  straight  sticks  in  each 
end,  which  go  down  on  each  side  of  the  neck  of  the  ox  and 
are  tied  with  a  small  string  under  the  ox's  throat.  The 
plow  only  has  one  handle,  as  in  ancient  times  (Luke  ix. 
62).  The  ox-goad  is  from  eight  to  ten  feet  long,  with  a 
sharp  piece  of  iron  like  a  chisel  on  one  end,  which  is  used 
for  cleaning  the  plow;  and  a  spear  in  the  other  end  to 
prick  the  cattle  with.  In  time  of  riots  they  use  the  ox-goad 
as  a  weapon  of  war,  the  same  as  in  the  time  of  Shamgar ; 
but  I  do  not  know  of  any  one  who  has  slain  so  many  at 
once  with  an  ox-goad  as  he  did  (Judges  iii.  31).  In  March, 
April,  and  May,  the  whole  Plain  of  Sharon  (where  not  cul- 
tivated) is  covered  with  flowers  of  almost  every  kind,  except 
its  own  peculiar  rose  (Solomon's  Song  ii.  1).  During  the 
spring  the  Plain  of  Sharon  is  like  a  flower-garden.  It 
makes  one  rejoice  while  traveling  across  it  (Isa.  xxxv.  1,  2). 
"  We  pass  on  through  grain-fields  and  over  low  hills  for 
about  two  miles,  to  a  large  olive-grove,  said  to  have  been 
planted  by  Napoleon  eighty-three  years  ago.  On  the  way, 
we  pass  to  our  left  a  small  village  called  Beit  Dejan.  The 
name  reminds  one  of  the  deity  of  the  Philistines ;  and  this 
village  is  often  pointed  out  by  ignorant  guides  and  drago- 
men as  the  site  where  the  house  of  Dagon  was ;  but  the  house 
of  Dagon  was  about  eighteen  miles  south  of  this  place,  in 
Ashdod  (1  Sam.  v.  1-3).  From  this  large  olive-grove  we  as- 
cend for  about  half  an  hour  to  the  top  of  a  low  ridge,  where 
the  town  and  tower  of  Kamleh  are  in  full  view,  about  three 


180  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

miles  direct  ahead.  And  just  opposite,  about  two  milea 
north  of  Ramleh,  we  can  see  the  top  of  the  Greek  convent, 
which  is  said  to  mark  the  birthplace  of  St.  George.  The 
town  of  Lydda  is  about  as  large  as  Ramleh,  but  it  is  so 
completely  surrounded  by  olive-groves  that  we  can  only  see 
the  top  of  the  Church  of  St.  George.  The  ancient  name  of 
Lydda  was  Lod  (1  Chron.  viii.  12;  Ezra  ii.  33;  Neh.  vii. 
37).  It  was  to  Lydda  that  Peter  went  to  visit  the  saints 
which  dwelt  there;  and  at  the  same  time  he  cured  Eneas, 
who  had  been  sick  eight  years  with  palsy  (Acts  ix.  33,  34). 
On  our  way  from  this  ridge  to  Ramleh,  we  pass  on  the  right 
a  modern  village  called  Surafend,  surrounded  by  cactus 
hedges.  Their  houses  are  built  mostly  of  mud  and  sticks, 
one  story  high,  and  only  one  room  in  each,  and  without  win- 
dows. They  cook,  eat,  drink,  and  sleep  all  together  in  one 
room — that  is,  each  family.  In  the  coldest  weather  they 
put  their  cattle  in  the  room  with  their  family.  They  all 
enter  by  the  same  door ;  but  the  floor  of  the  family  is  about 
two  feet  higher  than  where  the  cattle  stand.  The  manger 
for  the  cattle  to  eat  out  of  is  made  in  the  floor  on  which  the 
family  live;  and  it  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to  see  small 
children,  a  few  days  old,  lying  in  the  manger — that  is,  when 
the  cattle  are  not  in  the  house. 

"At  Ramleh  one  feels  quite  delighted  with  the  fragrance 
and  loveliness  of  the  numerous  gardens  and  orchards  around 
the  town ;  but  O  how  changed  is  one's  feelings  on  entering 
the  narrow,  dirty,  filthy  streets  of  the  town !  It  is  quite  a 
common  thing  to  see  in  the  streets,  on  entering  the  town, 
dead  dogs,  cats,  and  even  dead  donkeys,  which  lie  until 
eaten  up  by  the  jackals.  Ramleh  is  the  traditional  Arima- 
thea  of  the  Bible  (Matt,  xxvii.  57).  Here  are  three  con- 
vents— the  Russian,  Greek,  and  Latin  (Roman  Catholic). 
The  latter  is  said  to  be  built  on  the  site  where  the  house  of 
Nicodemus  stood.  There  are  a  few  soap  factories  in  Ram- 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  181 

leh.  Here  is  a  small  German  hotel,  which  is  kept  very 
clean  and  neat,  and  which  is  a  great  comfort  to  travelers  on 
their  way  from  Jaffa  to  the  City  of  the  Great  King.  Be- 
fore this  hotel  was  in  running  order,  travelers,  who  could  not 
make  the  journey  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  in  one  day,  had 
to  put  up  in  the  Latin  convent.  The  most  interesting  thing 
around  Ramleh  at  the  present  time  is  an  old  Saracenic  tow- 
er, about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  town.  From  its  top  is  a 
grand  view  of  Askelon,  Ashdod,  Ekron,  Gath,  Gezer,  Gimzo, 
Valley  of  Ajalon,  Lydda,  Mt.  Carmel,  Mt.  Gerizim,  the  up- 
per Beth-horon,  and  the  whole  Plain  of  Sharon — from  Gaza 
on  the  south  to  Carmel  on  the  north. 

"As  we  leave  the  town  of  Ramleh,  on  a  hill  in  the  plain, 
about  two  miles  north-east  from  the  road,  we  see  a  village 
called  Jimzo.  The  site  is  identified  with  ancient  Gimzo — a 
city  which  was  taken  from  the  Israelites  by  the  Philistines 
in  the  reign  of  King  Ahaz  (2  Chron.  xxviii.  18).  There 
are  many  cisterns  and  rock-cut  tombs  to  be  seen  in  and 
around  the  village.  As  we  ride  along,  the  plain  looks  beau- 
tiful and  green,  with  wheat  and  barley  on  both  sides  of  the 
road,  and  especially  on  the  right,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  ex- 
tend. In  about  six  weeks  every  place  that  is  not  cultivated 
on  this  plain  will  be  covered  with  all  kinds  of  wild  flowers. 

"From  the  time  we  leave  Ramleh  until  we  reach  a  village 
called  El-Kubab — a  distance  of  six  miles — a  modern  village 
called  Abu  Shoeshe  is  in  full  view.  About  two  and  a  half 
miles  to  the  right,  on  the  side  of  a  hill  called  Jezer  (the 
ancient  site  of  Gezer),  Mr.  Clement  Ganneau,  a  French- 
man, found  two  inscriptions — one  in  Greek  and  one  in  He- 
brew— showing  the  boundary  of  Gezer,  so  there  is  no  doubt 
about  its  identification.  Horam,  King  of  Gezer,  was  defeat- 
ed by  Joshua  (Josh.  x.  33).  The  city,  with  its  suburbs, 
was  given  to  the  Kohathite  Levites  (Josh.  xxi.  21).  The 
city  remained  a  strong  fortress  of  the  Philistines  for  many 


182  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

years.  It  was  captured  by  Pharaoh,  King  of  Egypt,  and  he 
gave  it  as  a  present  to  his  daughter,  Solomon's  wife  (1  Kings 
ix.  15-17).  El-Kubab  is  not  identified  with  any  ancient 
site,  although  there  are  some  signs  of  antiquity  about  the 
place.  It  has  a  fine  situation,  and  I  do  not  think  it  could 
have  been  overlooked.  At  present  it  has  a  Moslem  popula- 
tion of  about  six  hundred,  who  for  years  were  noted  as  great 
beggars.  The  village  is  nearly  surrounded  with  olive-groves. 
A  few  rods  beyond  El-Kubab,  a  good  dragoman  will  point 
out  the  following  places:  The  Valley  of  Ajalon,  just  at  our 
feet — the  place  where  Joshua  commanded  the  moon  to  stand 
still  (Josh.  x.  12) ;  the  upper  Beth-horon,  on  the  top  of  a 
high  peak,  about  six  miles  to  the  north-east  of  El-Kubab ;  the 
way  the  Amorite  kings  went  when  they  fled  from  Joshua — 
toward  the  cave  of  Makkedah  (Josh.  x.  16);  also,  the 
mountains  of  Judea — Benjamin  and  Ephraim. 

"  We  descend  a  steep  hill  and  cross  the  Valley  of  Ajalon, 
about  three  miles,  to  Latrum  (place  of  a  robber),  the  tradi- 
tional home  of  the  penitent  thief.  It  is  full  of  thieves  now, 
but  I  do  not  know  of  any  who  are  penitent.  Many  think  La- 
trum to  be  the  site  of  Modin,  but  I  believe  the  real  site  of  Mo- 
din  is  about  eight  miles  north  of  Latrum,  at  a  village  called 
Midyeh,  where  there  are  seven  old  tombs,  with  a  kind  of 
monument  over  the  top.  It  has  a  chamber  six  feet  long, 
five  feet  wide,  and  eight  feet  high,  and  is  called  Kabut-el- 
Yehud  (tombs  of  the  Jews).  The  place,  name,  and  situa- 
tion agree  with  the  description  given  by  Josephus  in  his 
thirteenth  Book  of  Antiquities  of  the  Jews,  sixth  chapter 
and  sixth  verse.  He  says  that  'Simon  sent  to  bring  his 
brothers'  bones,  and  buried  them  in  their  own  city,  Modin ; 
also,  erected  a  very  large  monument  for  his  father  and  his 
brethren,  of  white  and  polished  stone ;  moreover,  he  built 
seven  pyramids  also  for  his  parents  and  brethren,  one  for 
each  of  them/  etc.  About  the  same  words  are  also  record- 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  183 

ed  in  1  Maccabees  xiii.  25,  27,  28.  Latrum  is  about  twenty- 
two  miles  on  the  road  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  From  it  is 
a  very  good  view  of  the  plain  to  the  sea. 

"  Near  Latrum,  to  the  left  of  the  road,  and  just  on  the  edge 
of  the  Plain  of  Ajalon,  is  quite  a  large  village,  called  Am- 
was,  at  which  place  the  ruins  of  an  old  church  have  been 
found.  From  the  third  to  the  thirteenth  century  Amwas 
was  thought  to  be  the  site  of  Emmaus — a  very  wild  idea,  as 
it  is  about  eighteen  miles  from  Jerusalem,  while  Emmaus 
was  only  about  seven  and  a  half  (Luke  xxiv.  13).  I  have 
no  doubt  but  it  was  a  place  of  importance,  but  it  cannot  be 
identified  with  any  particular  site.  Near  the  village  there 
is  a  fountain.  Its  water  is  believed  by  the  natives  to  have 
great  properties  for  healing  all  kinds  of  diseases. 

"  From  Latrum  we  descend  a  steep  hill  into  a  narrow  val- 
ley called  Wady  Ali,  and  follow  it  for  about  two  miles, 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  a  place  called  Bab-el- Wady 
(door,  or  entrance,  to  the  valley).  On  our  way,  close  by 
the  road  on  the  right,  we  pass  a  spring  of  water  called 
Beir-el-Earyub  (\veli  of  Job).  On  a  hill,  about  a  mile  to 
the  left,  is  a  village  called  Deir-Earyub  (Job's  covenant). 
At  Bab-el- Wady  there  is  an  inn.  The  lower  part  is  used 
for  a  stable,  and  in  the  upper  story  are  two  sleeping-rooms, 
•with  four  beds  in  each,  and  a  large  dining-room.  One  can 
almost  always  find  something  to  eat  at  this  place,  as  Solo- 
mon, the  proprietor,  keeps  hens,  turkeys,  and  pigeons,  tea 
and  coffee,  eggs  and  coarse  bread,  sardines,  etc. 

"From  Bab-el-Wady,  we  ride  up  high  mountains  and 
down  steep  hills  fourteen  miles  to  the  Holy  City.  As  we 
pass  up  the  steep  defile,  hill  rising  above  hill,  one  cannot 
help  noticing  the  marks  of  ancient  terraces,  which  are  vis- 
ible on  the  sides  of  all,  although  the  rocks  are  bare  in  many 
places,  having  been  left  without  cultivation  for  thousand* 
of  years.  The  earth,  as  a  natural  consequence,  has  washed 


184  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

down  into  the  valley.  In  some  places,  years  ago,  there  was 
quite  a  forest  of  scrub-oak ;  but  is  fast  being  cut  down  for 
fuel,  which  is  a  scarce  article  in  almost  all  parts  of  Pales- 
tine. If  some  enterprising  people  do  not  soon  commence 
planting  trees,  the  whole  country  will  be  stripped.  From 
the  top  of  the  first  mountain  is  a  good  view  of  Lydda,  Ram- 
leh,  the  Plain  of  Sharon  as  far  as  Jaffa,  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean Sea  beyond.  From  this  place  are  also  to  be  seen 
several  olive-groves. 

"  In  about  two  hours  ride  from  Bab-el- Wady,  we  arrive 
at  a  village  called  Abu-Goush,  named  after  a  notorious  rob- 
ber, who  for  many  years  was  a  terror  to  the  whole  country 
— that  is,  Palestine.  It  is  said  that  about  thirty-nine  years 
ago  he,  with  a  band  of  his  relations,  fell  upon  some  Fran- 
ciscan monks,  who  were  on  their  way  to  Jerusalem,  robbed 
them,  and  then  stifled  them  to  death  in  an  oven.  At  pres- 
ent the  village  has  a  population  of  about  twelve  hundred, 
nearly  all  related  to  each  other,  and  the  son  of  the  great 
robber,  Abu-Goush,  is  the  chief  of  them — that  is,  governor. 
The  village  is  on  the  site  of  Kirjattf-jearim ;  so  here  we 
enter  the  tribe  of  Benjamin  (Josh.  xv.  9;  xviii.  14,  15). 
It  was  here  that  the  Ark  of  God  was  brought  from  Beth- 
shemesh  and  put  in  the  house  of  Abinadab,  and  it  remained 
here  twenty  years  (1  Sam.  vii.  1,  2).  '  Lo,  we  heard  of  it 
at  Ephratah ;  we  found  it  in  the  fields  of  the  woods.  We 
will  go  into  his  tabernacles;  we  will  worship  at  his  footstool. 
Arise,  O  Lord,  into  thy  rest;  thou  and  the  ark  of  thy 
strength'  (Ps.  cxxxii.  6-8).  Here  stands  an  old  Gothic 
church,  which  for  many  years  was  used  for  a  stable.  It  is 
now  the  property  of  the  French,  and  has  been  cleaned,  so 
that  it  can  be  seen  to  better  advantage  than  before.  It  is 
divided  by  two  rows  of  stone  pillars — three  in  each  row — 
supporting  pointed  arches.  From  here  to  Jerusalem  we  trav- 
el the  same  way,  if  not  over  the  same  ground,  by  which 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  185 

King  Dnvid  took  the  ark.  As  we  descend  the  hill  we  pass 
on  the  left  several  carob  or  husk  trees,  which  bear  pods 
from  three  to  seven  inches  long  with  a  kind  of  bean  in 
them,  very  sweet  when  ripe.  The  prodigal  sou  would  fain 
have  filled  his  belly  with  this  kind  of  "husks"  (Luke  xv. 
16).  In  the  bottom  of  the  valley  we  pass  a  fountain  on 
our  right  called  Ain  Dilb,  near  a  coffee-shop  of  the  same 
name,  where  travelers  are  treated  to  bare  walls  and  dry 
sticks. 

"  In  about  one  hour  from  Kirjath-jearim  (orkeryet-el-enab, 
town  of  grapes),  we  reach  the  top  of  a  hill  called  Custal 
(or  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle  called  Kustal).  About  two 
miles  to  the  north  we  see  a  mosque  called  Neby  Samwil,  on 
the  site  of  Mizpah,  a  place  of  lookout,  or  watch-tower.  At 
Mizpah  Saul  was  chosen  king,  and  for  the  first  time  the 
sound,  'God  save  the  king,'  was  heard  there  (1  Sam.  x. 
17-24).  It  was  at  Mizpah  that  the  Chaldean  governor  was 
assassinated  (2  Kings  xxv.  25).  As  we  descend  the  hill  by* 
a  zigzag  road  a  good  dragoman  will  point  out  the  site  of 
Gibeah,  about  four  miles  north  of  Jerusalem.  It  was  the 
home  of  Saul  (1  Sam.  x.  26).  And  away  to  the  right  is  a 
beautiful  village  called  Ain  Karim  (fountain  of  vineyards), 
in  the  midst  of  olive,  fig,  and  other  fruit-trees.  Tradition 
makes  it  the  birthplace  of  John  the  Baptist.  As  Zacha- 
rias,  John's  father,  was  a  priest,  he  would  no  doubt  live  near 
Jerusalem ;  and  this  place  is  not  only  near  Jerusalem,  but 
also  in  'the  hill  country  of  Judea'  (Luke  i.  39).  Near 
the  bottom  of  the  valley  we  pass  a  small  village  which  is 
thought  by  many  to  be  the  site  of  Emmaus  (Luke  xxiv.  13). 
In  this  valley  the  most  of  dragomen  tell  travelers  that  it  is 
the  place  where  David  slew  Goliath;  but  by  reading  the 
seventeenth  chapter  of  First  Samuel  we  find  that  it  was  in 
the  Valley  of  Elah,  which  is  away  to  the  south  of  Hebron. 
After  reaching  the  top  of  the  hill  the  Mount  of  Olives  can 


186  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

be  seen  on  the  east,  and  Scopus,  the  northern  range  of  Ol- 
ivet. On  the  right  we  pass  the  Convent  of  the  Cross,  to 
the  left  a  large  building,  which  is  the  German  Orphanage, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  come  in  sight  of  the  Holy  City  and 
of  the  mountains  of  Moab,  fifty  miles  beyond.  The  city  of 
Jerusalem  is  built  upon  four  hills,  and  yet  the  hills  around 
are  higher  than  the  city  (Ps.  cxxv.  2). 

"At  Jerusalem,  we  will  make  our  head-quarters  at  the 
Hotel  Fiel.  It  is  kept  by  a  German  whose  name  is  Fiel. 
He  speaks  English,  French,  German,  and  a  little  Arabic. 
His  hotel  is  situated  just  outside  the  city,  at  the  north-west 
corner,  in  the  cleanest  and  most  healthy  spot  around  the 
city,  high  and  dry  above  stagnant  pools  of  filthy  water, 
dead  dogs,  cats,  and  rats — away  from  the  filth  with  which 
the  streets  inside  the  city  abound.  To  say  the  least,  the 
Hotel  Fiel  is  the  cheapest,  best,  and  in  every  way  the  most 
comfortable  of  any  in  the  Holy  Land.  As  we  enter  the 
•city  through  the  Jaffa  gate,  on  the  west  side,  and  pass  be- 
tween the  Tower  of  David  and  the  bankers,  Messrs.  John 
Frutiyer  &  Co.,  one  cannot  help  noticing  the  long  ranges 
of  open  stalls  on  each  side  of  narrow  lanes,  with  a  human 
figure  squatting  in  the  corner  of  each  as  though  he  had 
been  placed  there  for  a  show.  These  stalls  take  the  place 
of  our  stores.  In  order  to  trade  with  one  of  these  store- 
keepers we  have  to  stand  in  the  street  just  in  front  of  his 
shop  and  bargain  for  whatever  we  wish  to  buy.  There  is 
no  fixed  price  to  or  for  any  thing.  When  we  ask  an  Arab 
the  price  of  any  thing  he  will  first  say,  '  Whatever  you 
wish  to  pay,'  and  then,  'Take  it  without  money;'  but 
when  pressed  for  a  price  he  will  ask  from  two  to  four  times 
as  much  as  he  expects  to  get;  and  one  cannot  hurt  the  feel- 
ings of  these  men  more  than  to  give  them  what  they  ask. 
They  would  mourn  over  it,  and  say  if  they  had  asked  more 
they  would  have  got  it.  But  if  you  give  them  one  quarter 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  187 

what  they  ask  they  Mill  content  themselves  by  saying  they 
could  not  get  more.  As  a  rule  the  Arabs  put  one  in  mind 
(when  trading)  of  Abraham  bargaining  with  the  sons  of 
Heth  for  the  cave  of  Machpelah:  'Nay,  my  lord,  hear 
me :  the  field  give  I  thee ;  and  the  cave  that  is  therein,  I  give 
thee.'  (See  Gen.  xxiii.  4-18.) 

"The  Arabs  are  generally  very  polite.  If  you  enter  the 
tent  of  a  wild  Bedouin,  or  the  humble  cottage  of  a  fellah 
(farmer),  you  are  received  with  an  ease  and  courtesy  that 
would  not  disgrace  a  palace.  The  modes  of  salutation  are 
formal,  but  there  is  something  pleasing  in  the  inquiries 
compliments,  and  good  wishes  which  they  heap  upon  their 
guests.  In  saluting  they  put  their  right-hand  to  their 
mouth,  which  means  they  praise  you  with  their  lips;  then 
to  their  chest,  to  indicate  that  you  are  cherished  in  their 
heart ;  then  to  their  forehead,  which  means  they  esteem  you 
with  their  intellect.  When  saluting  a  great  personage  they 
first  lower  the  right-hand  to  the  ground,  which  means  they 
honor  his  feet  and  the  ground  on  which  he  treads.  A 
greater  respect  is  implied  by  kissing  your  hand,  but  the 
greatest  of  all  by  kissing  your  feet.  An  Arab  will  tell  you 
that  his  house  is  yours,  his  property  is  yours ;  that  he  him- 
self is  your  slave;  that  he  loves  you  writh  all  his  heart,  and 
would  defend  you  with  his  life.  This  all  sounds  very  nice, 
but  is  not  always  meant.  One  of  the  noblest  traits  the 
Arabs  are  noted  for  is  that  when  eating — whether  in  their 
house  or  by  the  wray-side,  however  poor  and  scanty  their 
fare  may  be — they  always  invite  the  visitor,  or  any  one  pass- 
ing by,  to  join  them.  In  this  habit  they  are  generally  sincere. 
The  inhabitants  of  Palestine  and  Syria  are  a  mixed  race, 
made  up  of  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  Syrians  and 
Arabians,  who  came  in  the  armies  of  the  Caliphs  (Turks). 
Every  one  can  distinguish  a  Turk,  Jew,  or  Armenian,  each 
of  whom  is  of  a  different  race.  The  Mohammedans  are, 


188  Around  the  World  in  188 4. 

and  have  been  for  many  years,  the  lords  of  the  land.  They 
are  proud  and  fanatic.  They  are  taught  by  the  faith  they 
hold  to  look  with  contempt  on  all  other  classes,  and  to  treat 
them  as,  inferior.  They  are  generally  polite  in  address  and 
profuse  ia  hospitality,  but  regardless  of  truth,  and  have  the 
credit  of  not  being  very  honest  in  their  dealings — I  mean 
those  who  hold  office  in  the  government.  I  will  here  copy 
a  few  lines  written  by  a  gentleman  who  spent  much  time  in 
this  country: 

" '  The  Turks  are  few  in  number.  Strangers  in  race  and 
language,  hated  by  every  sect  and  class,  wanting  in  phys- 
ical power,  destitute  of  moral  principle,  and  yet  they  are 
the  despots  of  the  land.  The  Arabs  have  a  proverb  that 
though  a  Turk  should  compass  the  whole  circle  of  the  sci- 
ences he  would  still  remain  a  barbarian.  Those  occupying 
the  high  government  situations  in  Syria  are  Turks  almost 
to  a  man.  They  obtain  their  power  by  bribery,  and  they 
exercise  it  for  extortion  and  oppression.  Every  pasha,  in 
coming  to  the  country,  knows  that  his  term  of  office  must 
be  short,  and  therefore  his  gains  must  be  large.  The  coun- 
try has  thus  been  robbed  of  its  wealth,  and  a  tax  imposed 
on  industry/  " 

My  own  recollection  of  this  eventful  night's  journey  from 
Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  was  a  perfect  chaos  of  incidents  and 
confusions.  I  remember  many  excruciating  places  on  that 
tortuous  road;  khans,  inns,  loaded  donkeys,  trains  of  cam- 
els, pilgrims  on  foot,  pilgrims  on  horses,  in  carriages,  wag- 
ons, with  more  donkeys  and  camels  with  tinkling  bells, 
loaded  with  oranges  or  merchandise  from  Jaffa;  or  noisy 
footmen  with  loose  asses  braying  and  kicking,  returning 
from  Jerusalem.  Long  trains  of  camels,  loaded  with  boxes 
and  bales  of  merchandise,  were  threading  their  noisclests 
way  with  uplifted  heads  in  the  darkness,  one  following  the 
other;  little  donkeys,  no  larger  than  a  dog,  loaded  with 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  189 

coops  of  chickens  and  baskets  of  eggs  and  fruit,  occasion- 
ally browsing  along  the  road-side,  with  the  Arab  boy  or  liis 
master  strolling  in  the  rear,  made  up  a  weird  procession  en 
route  to  the  Holy  City.  I  passed  over  the  Plain  of  Sharon, 
then  the  Valley  of  Ajalon,  stopping  at  Ramleh  and  Babel- 
el- Wady.  At  both  places  we  had  coifee  or  lunch,  if  we 
wished  it.  Our  horses  lunched  too,  on  chaff  and  barley. 
In  the  valley  I  tried  to  imagine  Joshua,  and  looked  up  for 
the  moon.  There  wras  no  moon.  It  was  a  dark,  rainy 
night.  I  thought  of  the  Latrum  thieves  on  the  edge  of 
Ajalon  still  crying  for  repentance — but  they  needed  more 
time.  I  was  nearly  convulsed  with  laughter  over  Solomon's 
effort  to  induce  an  old  Moslem  pilgrim  at  §abel-el-Wady  to 
take  a  cup  of  his  fragrant  Mocha.  The  old  man  suffered  a 
terrible  pounding  over  his  head,  and  was  nearly  dragged 
out  of  his  wagon,  but  he  never  sipped.  The  lower  part  of 
this  famous  caravansary  was  a  stable  full  of  donkeys,  cam- 
els, horses,  turkeys,  pigeons,  and  hens,  all  asleep  together. 
The  upper  story  boasted  of  two  sleeping-rooms,  with  four 
beds»in  each,  and  a  large  dining-saloon. 

We  have  passed  over  both  valleys,  and  are  now  twenty- 
two  miles  from  Jaffa.  It  is  still  fourteen  miles  to  Jerusa- 
lem, up  narrow  gorges  and 'over -most  rugged  mountains. 
The  carriage-road  winds  around  on  their  steep  slopes  to 
lofty  summits.  From  Babel-el- Wady  to  Jerusalem  we  must 
rise  nearly  three  thousand  feet.  We  soon  leave  the  lovely 
plains  far  behind  us,  up  one  barren  mountain  of  rock  and 
scrub  and  down  another,  then  pass  Abu-Goush,  named  in 
honor  of  another  celebrated  robber  thirty  years  ago,  who 
was  the  terror  of  all  Palestine.  This  village  is  on  the  site 
of  Kirjath-jearim,  where  the  ark  of  the  covenant  remained 
once  twenty  years.  We  travel  the  same  road  over  which  it 
was  borne  to  Jerusalem .  Descending  the  mountain  we  saw  its 
slopes  covered  with  olive-trees,  and  awray  up  to  our  right 


190  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

stood  the  beautiful  village  of  Aim  Karim,  where  John  the 
Baptist  was  born.  Bishop  Marvin  thought  there  was  no 
doubt  whatever  about  this  being  the  "  hill  country  "  of  Ju- 
dea,  but  it  was  very  uncertain  about  the  Baptist's  birthplace 
—like  Moses's  tomb,  there  were  too  many  of  them.  But 
what  glimpses  of  Bethlehem  we  enjoy  through  the  opening 
in  the  hills ! 

Down  in  the  valley  below — which  we  cross — is  the  tra- 
ditional spot  where  David  gathered  up  the  five  smooth 
stones  with  which  he  brought  down  the  mighty  giant,  Go- 
liath of  Gath.  The  brook  was  dry,  but  there  were  ship- 
loads of  just  such  stones.  I  gathered  up  all  I  could  carry 
and  started  off,  J»ut  to  my  dismay  here  came  the  village  of 
little  naked  Arabs,  loaded  down,  crying,  "Backshish !  back- 
shish!"  They  were  just  the  kind  of  stones  to  kill  a  giant 
with,  but  I  felt  like  emptying  my  cargo  at  that  Arab  vil- 
lage. I  have  heard  the  cry  of  backshish  from  the  crater 
of  Mount  Vesuvius  and  the  pyramids  of  Egypt  to  within 
four  miles  of  the  Holy  City.  To  our  left  rose  Neby  Samwil, 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Mizpeh,  from  which  Samuel  judged 
Israel.  Then  Jerusalem,  O  Jerusalem,  burst  upon  my  vis- 
ion, with  her  sacred  mountains  rising  all  about  her.  We 
do  not  see  much  of  the  city  inside  the  high  walls  that  in- 
close it  (in  the  shape  of  a  square)  until  we  actually  pass 
through  the  Jaffa  or  western  gate.  There  is  a  large  town 
building  up  outside  of  the  Jaffa  gate  that  boasts  of  many 
fine  modern  houses,  pretty  gardens,  vineyards,  cottages, 
hospices,  convents,  etc.  We  stop  at  Hotel  Fiel  on  top  of  a 
hill  in  this  new  suburb  of  Jerusalem.  We  have  endeav- 
ored to  approach  this  City  of  David  with  feelings  of  awe 
and  reverence,  for  every  spot  on  these  hills  around  is  hal- 
lowed by  the  footsteps  of  our  blessed  Lord  and  his  disci- 
ples. To-morrow  morning  we  shall  enter  the  Jaffa  gate. 

We  have  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Mr.  Holla  Floyd,  under 


From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem.  191 

whose  charge  a  party  of  distinguished  American  and  En- 
glish gentlemen  are  making  the  tour  of  Palestine.  I  have 
accepted  a  kind  invitation  to  join  them,  to  visit  the  Dead 
Sea  and  the  Valley  of  the  Jordan  in  a  few  days. 

I  want  to  say  something  about  the  influence  of  good  roads 
on  travel  and  immigration  in  Palestine.  The  marked  effect 
of  the  carriage-way  we  have  just  come  over,  connecting  this 
city  with  Jaffa,  has  already  been  felt  in  the  increasing  pros- 
perity and  growth  of  both  cities.  It  is  macadamized  with 
small  stones,  and,  notwithstanding  some  rough  places  which 
the  government  is  constantly  repairing,  taken  altogether,  it 
is  a  marvel  of  engineering.  The  increasing  tendency  to 
flock  to  the  Holy  Land  is  not  alone  confined  to  the  Jews. 
The  number  of  pilgrims  is  increasing  every  year,  while  all 
the  Christian  sects  are  establishing  themselves  here  firmly, 
under  the  influence  of  many  "hobbies."  It  is  said  the 
Turkish  Government  is  as  much  opposed  to  colonization  of 
the  Jews  as  ever,  and  looks  with  distrust  toward  all  Chris- 
tian denominations,  but  is  powerless  to  prevent  the  increas- 
ing tide  of  immigration  into  Palestine.  Already  the  influx 
of  foreign  capital  and  population  has  exerted  a  decided  in- 
fluence on  the  destinies  of  the  country,  placing  Palestine  at 
the  head  of  the  most  progressive  provinces  in  the  Empire. 
What  is  eventually  to  be  the  political  effect  upon  this  Eastern 
question,  where  there  is  so  much  religious  interest  involved, 
remains  to  be  solved.  Besides  the  present  road  alluded 
to,  it  is  the  intention  of  the  governor  to  extend  the  road  now 
in  progress  of  construction  to  Bethlehem  and  on  to  Hebron. 
Then  with  the  rich  Valley  of  the  Jordan  connected  by  a 
road  to  Jericho,  east  of  Jerusalem,  we  may  expect  a  large 
annual  increase  of  tourists  to  the  Holy  Land.  Even  in- 
valids could  then  ride  in  a  carriage  to  many  historic  places. 


192  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

JERUSALEM  FROM  THE  TOWER  OF  HIPPICUS, 

T^ASSING  a  Turkish  guard  at  the  Jaffa  gate,  we  enter 
JL  and  turn  to  the  right,  walking  through  an  open  square 
a  hundred  yards  or  more  till  we  reach  the  Citadel,  in  which 
the  soldiers  are  quartered,  stand  guard,  etc.  A  soldier 
shows  us  up  a  long  flight  of  stone  steps  that  lead  to  the  flat 
roof  of  the  "Tower  of  David,  or  Hippicus."  It  is  close  to 
the  Jaffa  gate,  on  the  edge  of  the  west  wall  of  the  city.  It 
is  located  on  Mt.  Zion,  perhaps  on  the  very  spot  King  David 
conquered  from  the  Jebusites,  which  they  had  held  for  hun- 
dreds of  years.  A  portion  of  its  ancient  walls-  and  a  few 
beveled  stones  in  the  temple-wall  of  Solomon,  now  the 
Mosque  of  Omar,  it  is  believed,  are  all  that  remain  of  the 
city  during  the  reign  of  Herod.  A  few  columns  of  tem- 
ples, arches,  etc.,  rescued  from  oblivion,  may  be  seen  in 
other  buildings  of  Jerusalem.  The  city  has  many  times 
been  destroyed  by  sieges  of  investing  armies,  and  rebuilt. 
In  the  year  A.D.  70  Titus  razed  it  to  the  ground,  leaving 
it  a  heap  of  ruins.  The  present  wall  that  surrounds  it  on 
four  sides*is  only  about  three  hundred  years  old.  Josephus 
states  that  at  one  time  during  the  first  century  Jerusa- 
lem numbered  over  two  million  inhabitants.  At  the  time 
of  its  destruction  alluded  to,  he  also  states,  eleven  hundred 
thousand  Jews  perished  and  ninety-seven  thousand  were 
sold  into  slavery.  I  think  the  present  number  of  inhab- 
itants will  exceed  49,000— say  18,000  Moslems,  8,000  Chris- 
tians, and  24,000  Jews.*  During  Easter  season  the  number 

*ln  1875,  Sir  Moses  Montefiore  had  a  census  taken  of  all  the  Jews 
in  Palestine.  At  that  time,  eight  years  ago,  there  were  24,000  in 
Jerusalem.  They  are  increasing  every  year.  Mr.  Floyd  estimated 
the  entire  population  of  the  city  and  its  growing  suburbs  in  1882 
at  45,000.  I  base  my  estimates  on  these  figures. 


Jerusalem  from  the  Tower  of  Hippicus.  193 

of  pilgrims  swells  the  population  ten  thousand  more,  when  you 
can  hear  a  dozen  languages  spoken.  When  we  look  back, 
then,  from  this  lofty  eminence,  over  the  history  of  this  re- 
markable city  three  thousand  years,  we  must  remember  there 
have  been  a  countless  number  of  changes  that  mark  its  event- 
ful career.  We  study  it  to-day  for  its  sacred  associations  of 
the  past,  that  make  it  the  most  interesting  ruins  in  the 
world.  Think  of  the  twenty  sieges  and  destructions  it  has 
undergone.  "  We  have  had  the  Jerusalem  of  the  Jebusites, 
the  Jerusalem  of  David  and  King  Solomon,  the  Jerusalem  of 
Nehemiah,  a  Jerusalem  of  the  Ptolemies,  of  the  Maccabees, 
of  Herod,  of  the  Romans,  a  Jerusalem  of  the  Christian  em- 
perors, a  Jerusalem  of  the  Saracens,  of  the  Crusaders,  and 
now  a  Jerusalem  of  the  Turks.  The  Jews,  Christians,  and 
Mohammedans,  throughout  all  these  changes,  have  claimed 
it  as  a  holy  £ity." 

As  I  look  down  on  the  solid  masses  of  stone  houses,  from 
which  rise  countless  little  domes  from  their  flat  roofs,  that 
look  like  "  inverted  saucers,"  I  am  reminded  that  the  proph- 
ecy of  Jeremiah  (xxx.  18) — that  the  "city  shall  be  builded 
upon  her  own  heap" — has  been  fulfilled  many  times.  Just 
to  think,  there  is  not  a  street  our  Saviour  trod  or*  a  house 
left  which  he  saw !  They  lie  buried  thirty  to  eighty  feet 
deep  beneath  the  streets  and  buildings  we  now  gaze  upon. 
Even  the  most  sacred  spots  are  difficult  to  identify,  and  all 
of  them  are  in  dispute,  save  one  or  two,  among  speculative 
philosophers,  archaeologists,  and  Christian  scholars.  Recog- 
nizing the  fact  that  I  am  walking  above  the  old  streets  and  sites 
of  the  ancient  city  below  me,  it  is  enough  to  feel  that  I  am 
in  the  presence  of  its  holy  places;  that  I  believe  Jesus  here 
lived  and  died ;  that  over  Mt.  Elias  yonder  is  Bethlehem, 
and  that  at  my  feet  almost  is  Calvary,  where  he  suffered  on 
the  cross  for  me.  I  know  this  is  Jerusalem — that  is  enough. 
Let  the  learned  orthodox  dispute ;  I  am  satisfied.  These  aro 
13 


194  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  feelings  I  endeavor  to  command  when  I  look  now  upon 
the  Damascus  gate,  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  the  garden  of  Geth- 
semane,  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and  the  Mount  of  Olives. 
Let  us  now  stroll  through  the  city  to  the  Holy  Sepulcher 
• — through  narrow,  crooked  streets,  paved  with  smooth, 
round  stones,  crowded  with  dirty  Moslems,  dogs,  donkeys, 
and  camels,  with  numerous  little  bazaars,  open  shops,  fruit- 
stalls,  and  turbaned  Arabs  sitting  cross-legged,  smoking 
their  long  pipes.  We  see  stone  houses,  generally  two 
stories  high,  of  solid  masonry,  whitewashed  and  plastered 
outside,  with  a  lattice,  wooden  windows  projecting  in  front, 
and  streets  that  appear  to  come  together  a  few  hundred 
yards  ahead  of  us.  As  we  crowd  along,  or  pick  our  way  on 
the  slippery  stones  down  some  narrow,  steep  street,  we  have 
jostled  up  against  every  thing  from  a  donkey  and  a  camel  to 
a  Jew  and  a  Gentile.  Here  are  Moslems,  Greeks,  Latins, 
Armenians,  Syrians,  Copts,  Abyssinian.*,  Greek  Catholics, 
Jews,  and  a  few  Protestants,  scuffling  for  bare  subsistence 
in  their  little  niches,  or  bazaars,  or  fighting  over  the  sacred 
places  in  the  temples  they  desecrate.  Except  the  Episco- 
pal, or  Church  of  England,  there  is  not  a  Protestant  Church 
in  Jerusalem  that  I  could  hear  of.  *  There  are  any  number  of 
sects  and  religious  hobbies,  societies,  associations,  and  united 
brethren,  who  have  come  here  with  every  fanatical  idea  and 
cranky  notion.  Some  are  looking  for  judgment-day  to  come ; 
some  are  expecting  the  advent  of  Christ,  while  others  believe 
there  is  no  other  spot  on  earth  where  it  is  safe  to  die.  They 
are  worshiping  all  times  of  day  and  every  day  in  the  week. 
They  have  festivals,  Easter,  or  some  great  event,  happening 
all  the  time.  Pilgrims  are  arriving  and  departing  by  the 
hundreds  and  thousands.  They  rush  down  to  the  river  Jor- 
dan and  plunge  into  its  swollen  flood.  At  another  time  the 
patriarch  passes  out  the  holy  fire  from  the  empty  tomb  of 

*  Probably  one  or  two  other  Protestant  Societies. 


Jerusalem  from  the  Tower  of  Hippicus.  195 

the  Saviour,  and  thousands  light  their  torches  and  rush 
wildfy  through  the  Holy  Sepulcher,  shouting  with  frantic 
joy.  They  seem  to  be  the  most  devout  Christians  in  the 
world;  they  have  three  Sabbaths  in  every  wTeek.  The  Mo- 
hammedans observe  Friday,  the  Jews  Saturday,  and  the 
Christians  Sunday.  Rags,  poverty,  and  dirt  are  three  of 
the  emblems  that  indicate  the  presence  of  Moslem  rule. 
Here  are  the  lepers,  cripples,  the  blind,  and  malformed, 
sitting  in  her  holy  ways  and  about  the  city  gates,  crying  the 
eternal  "backshish."  Jerusalem  sits  in  the  ashes  of  her 
sorrows,  wailing  and  mourning. 

To  the  Christian  there  is  no  place  within  her  walls  now 
so  full  of  interest  as  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher. 
Under  its  great  domes  are  intimately  associated  all  the  im- 
portant events  connected  with  the  crucifixion.  This  church, 
it  is  said,  covering  about  four  acres  of  ground,  is  located  on 
the  site  of  Calvary.  Here  are  the  tombs  of  Joseph  and 
Nicodemus,  the  spot  where  the  Saviour's  mother  appeared 
after  his  resurrection ;  where  the  angel  appeared ;  where  the 
mother  of  Constantine  found  the  true  cross,  and  where  the 
Saviour  appeared  to  Mary  Magdalene;  together  with  other 
important  places,  numbering  in  all  forty-six  consecrated 
spots.  We  enter  through  a  long  passage  into  a  square 
court,  built  in  such  a  way  as  to  keep  the  Turks  from  riding 
in  on  horseback,  where  you  behold  the  throng  of  relic-vend- 
ers of  crosses,  olive-wood,  pearl,  beads,  etc.,  sitting,  holding 
out  their  goods  as  you  pass.  As  we  entered  the  door,  the 
first  object  I  saw  was  a  flat  stone  in  the  floor,  over  which 
lamps  were  burning,  and  pilgrims  crawling  on  their  knees 
to  kiss  it.  This  is  called  the  stone  of  unction,  where  the 
body  of  the  Lord  was  anointed  by  the  holy  women  before 
burial.  A  little  piece  off  is  the  spot,  marked  by  a  circular 
stone,  where  the  Virgin  Mary  stood  looking  on.  I  then 
advanced  a  few  steps  under  the  great  dome,  where  I  beheld 


196  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  Holy  Sepulcher,  which,  surrounded  by  sixteen  beautiful 
columns  of  marble,  marks  the  grave  of  Jesus.  Within  the 
little  temple  is  a  piece  of  the  stone  on  which  the  angel  sat 
when  Mary  came  thither  at  "early  dawn."  Stooping  low, 
let  us  now  enter  the  vault,  or  sepulcher,  itself.  It  is  about 
six  by  eight,  and  the  stone  slab,  or  couch,  on  which  the 
dead  Saviour  lay  is  about  half  its  width  and  quite  as  long. 
Over  the  top  is  a  marble  slab  that  is  greatly  worn  by  the 
lips  of  millions  of  pilgrims  who  have  bowed  here  and  kissed 
this  piece  of  marble  for  the  past  fifteen  hundred  years. 
Here  the  Latin  kings,  Godfrey  and  Baldwin,  of  the  Cru- 
saders, knelt  and  prayed ;  queens,  knights,  and  holy  pilgrims 
believing  this  to  be  the  very  spot  "  where  Christ  triumphed 
over  the  grave  and  disarmed  death  of  his  terrors."  Over- 
hanging the  vault  are  some  forty-two  gold  and  silver  lamps, 
presented  by  different  sovereigns  of  Europe.  They  are  kept 
burning  all  the  time.  Here  stands  a  Greek  monk,  who 
will  light  more  candles  if  he  is  paid,  continually  reading 
prayers.  A  most  affecting  scene  is  witnessed  here,  enough 
to  melt  the  most  obdurate  heart,  of  poor  pilgrims  crawling 
in  upon  their  knees,  and  weeping  as  if  their  hearts  wrould 
break.  Whether  this  be  the  spot  or  not,  the  rock-hewn 
sepulcher  corresponds  to  the  description  given  of  it  in  the 
Bible.  The  stone  slab,  now  cracked,  on  which  the"young 
man  was  found  sitting  and  where  Mary  saw  the  two  angels, 
is  where  the  body  of  Christ  was  laid.  Who  can  stand  in  its 
presence  without  feeling  the  deepest  awe  and  reverence? 

All  sects  of  Christians  (except  the  Protestants)  have 
chapels  in  this  building,  and  each  must  observe  its  proper 
jurisdiction.  Here  are  the  Latins,  Greeks,  Copts,  Arme- 
nians, and  Syrians,  which  cannot  worship  in  peace  around 
the  grave  of  the  Saviour.  I  saw  Turkish  guards  on  duty 
as  I  entered  the  door.  I  heard  a  Babel  of  sounds  and 
tongues  of  many  nations  throughout  the  vast  building.  The 


Jerusalem  from  the  Tower  of  Hippicus.  197 

Greeks  are  the  richest,  the  Copts  and  Syrians  the  poorest,  of 
all  the  devotional  sects.  You  see  them  bowed  at  their  al- 
tars, in  their  little  shrines  and  chapels,  reading  their  Bibles, 
chanting  and  praying.  The  congregations  are  sitting  on 
mats,  bowing  and  kneeling,  while  the  priests,. or  shaved 
monks,  are  passing  all  around,  throwing  incense  from  little 
lamps  upon  their  devoted  followers.  I  did  not  witness  the 
holy  fire  fraud  or  the  personation  of  the  crucified  Lord  and 
resurrection.  I  am  glad  I  escaped  the  sight  of  such  sacri- 
lege. As  I  moved  through  the  great  piers  and  towering 
pillars  of  this  gr^nd,  dismal,  gloomy  church,  my  guide 
pointed  out  many  venerated  places  whose  fame  has  become 
world-wide.  Here  is  the  grave  of  Adam,  over  which  Mark 
Twain  "  wept  bitter  tears  because  he  was  a  blood-relation." 
Here  is  the  center  of  the  earth ;  the  altar  where  the  Roman 
soldier  stood  on  guard ;  the  "  Chapel  of  the  Mocking ; "  the 
rock  rent  in  twain,  the  place  of  the  crucifixion ;  the  inven- 
tion of  the  cross,  by  St.  Helena ;  the  Pillar  of  Flagellation ; 
the  spot  where  the  Saviour  appeared  to  Mary  Magdalene 
as  a  gardener  after  he  had  risen  from  the  grave ;  etc.  I 
saw  the  tombs  of  Joseph  of  Arimathea,  cut  in  the  solid 
stone ;  also  the  tomb  of  Nicodemus,  close  by.  Some  of  these 
chapels  are  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock  of  Calvary.  They  are 
dark,  dismal  caves,  always  lighted  with  lamps,  which  are  kept 
burning.  The  chapel  of  the  Copts  is  of  this  description ;  also 
the  magnificent  chapel  of  St.  Helena,  belonging  to  the  Arme- 
nians. I  descended  by  a  flight  of  twenty-eight  stone  steps  and 
stood  under  a  cupola  supported  by  four  massive  columns,  or- 
namented with  Corinthian  capitals.  This  chapel  is  partly 
hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  lighted  from  its  cupola  by  four 
windows.  There  is  here  an  altar  dedicated  to  St.  Helena, 
and  one  to  the  "  penitent  thief"  I  sat  in  the  rock-hewn  chair 
where  St.  Helena  sat,  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  eighty- 
four  years  ago,  watching,  from  a  small  window,  the  search 


198  Around  thef  World  in  1884. 

for  the  true  cross.  Descending  another  flight  of  steps,  we 
enter  the  Chapel  of  the  Invention  of  the  Cross,  belonging  to 
the  Latins,  "  where  the  three  crosses  were  discovered."  I 
had  tried  to  believe  every  spot  and  every  tradition  con- 
nected witjji  them  throughout  this  vast  building,  as  our 
guide  had  pointed  them  out.  I  came  here  to  believe,  not 
doubting;  but  at  last  I  am  perplexed  as  to  which  of  these 
crosses  it  was  that  bore  the  Saviour.  The  Latin  priests  say 
a  piece  of  it  has  been  stolen  away,  and  I  am  inclined  to  be- 
believe  it ;  for  it  may  be  seen  in  several  cathedrals  of  Europe. 
I  am  troubled  still  further  about  the  name  of  this  chapel. 
I  am  afraid  St.  Helena  found  too  many  of  these  crosses. 

I  looked  through  a  screen  at  another  place,  trying  to  see 
a  piece  of  the  pillar  to  which  Christ  was  bound  when  he 
was  scourged.  It  was  too  dark ;  I  could  not  see  it.  But 
you  can  feel  it  with  a  stick  the  priest  furnishes  you,  and 
then  you  have  no  further  doubt  about  its  being  there.  I 
always  like  to  be  convinced  when  I  can't  see  a  thing.  Then 
there  was  the  old  trusty  blade  of  King  Godfrey,  of  Jerusa- 
lem— that  brave  knight  who,  with  Baldwin,  rescued  the 
Holy  Land  from  the  polluting  hands  of  the  Saracens.  What 
enchantment,  what  visions  .of  romance  gathered  about  this 
old  relic!  It  peoples  our  mind  with  images  of  mail-clad 
heroes  of  the  Holy  Wars,  "with  marching  armies,  with  bat- 
tles and  sieges."  The  memory  of  Baldwin,  of  Coeur  de 
Lion,  of  Tancred,  and  the  dauntless  infidel  Saladin,  are  as- 
sociated with  its  chivalrous  deeds. 

We  are  shown  the  niches  where  the  bones  of  the  Latin 
kings  Godfrey  and  Baldwin,  the  first  Christian  rulers  over 
Jerusalem,  were  laid  once — who  had  fought  so  long  to  rescue 
this  sacred  sepulcher  from  the  hands  of  the  infidel.  But 
alas!  the  coverings  of  their  tombs  are  gone,  destroyed  by 
some  Greek  fanatics,  because  they  were  Latin  kings,  whose 
"faith  was  different  from  theirs." 


Jerusalem  from  the  Tower  of  Hippicus.  199 

We  come  at  last  to  the  place  of  the  crucifixion,  the  crown- 
ing glory  of  them  all.  If  we  have  had  any  doubts  about  the 
other  spots  we  have  seen,  we  believe  this  is  the  place  of  the 
crucifixion.  The  execution  of  so  distinguished  a  person  as 
Jesus,  who  had  been  celebrated  and  known  throughout  Pal- 
estine long  before  he  came  to  live  in  Jerusalem,  would  make 
any  spot  memorable  for  ages  to  come.  The  wonderful  events 
that  occurred  at  this  time  too,  of  the  "earthquake  and  the 
frightful  storm  and  darkness  that  intervened,"  would  tend 
to  fix  the  memory  of  the  execution  in  the  mind  of  the  most 
indifferent  witness.  The  story  of  the  cross  would  be  hand- 
ed down  from  father  to  son,  and  the  spot  pointed  out;  the 
sons  would  transmit  its  location  to  their  children,  and  a  pe- 
riod of  three  hundred  years  spanned ;  Helena,  the  mother 
of  Constantine,  then  came  and  built  a  church  on  the  hill  of 
Calvary  to  commemorate  the  most  sacred  and  important 
event  in  the  world's  history.  Since  the  third  century  there 
has  always  been  a  church  here;  it  has  been  a  consecrated 
spot,  sacred  to  the  memories  of  all  generations.  There  can 
be  no  doubt  or  mistake  about  this  locality  of  the  crucifix- 
ion. The  buildings  upon  it  may  crumble  into  dust,  but  the 
place  can  never  be  forgotten.  The  monuments  on  the  fields 
of  Waterloo,  Bunker  Hill,  and  Yorktown  may  disappear, 
but  their  places  will  be  remembered.  The  execution  of  the 
Saviour  was  too  notable  an  event,  and  Calvary  on  which 
it  occurred  too  familiar,  to  be  forgotten  in  the  short  space 
of  three  hundred  years.  Strange  that  these  holy  places  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  infidels  so  long.  The  Crusaders  in 
the  eleventh  century  finally  rescued  them  and  held  them 
for  two  hundred  years;  but  they  were  at  last  compelled  to 
abandon  the  Holy  Land,  on  which  millions  of  treasure  and 
blood  had  been  expended.  Only  thirty  years  ago  the 
Crimean  war  was  fought  over  the  erection  of  a  new  dome 
above  this  very  building.  And  still  the  Turkish  soldiers 


200  Around  t^e  World  in  1884. 

keep  watch  over  its  sacred  places  to  preserve  peace  among 
these  so-called  Christians. 

I  believe  there  are  hundreds  of  priests,  monks,  and  pil- 
grims who  spend  days  and  even  nights  in  devotional  exer- 
cises throughout  this  vast  building.  They  bow,  sing,  and 
pray  before  their  shrines  and  chapels,  and  sleep  in  the  nich- 
es and  corners,  where  I  have  seen  their  bedding  folded  away 
in  the  day.  Priests  in  long  white  robes  and  sandals,  or  monks 
clothed  in  black  gowns,  with  clean-shaved  heads,  barefoot- 
ed, are  flitting  among  hundreds  of  pilgrims,  with  lighted  can- 
dles, through  dusty  corridors  and  archways,  finally  disap- 
pearing in  tombs  or  chapels,  amidst  their  sepulchral  gloom. 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

IN   AND    NEAR   JERUSALEM. 

LET  us  now  leave  the  Holy  Sepulcher  and  walk  along  the 
Via  Dolorosa,  or  ;<  Way  of  Grief,"  which  leads  to  St. 
Stephen's  gate,  from  near  which  our  Saviour  was  led  to  the 
hill  of  Golgotha,  or  skulls,  on  which  the  Holy  Sepulcher 
now  stands — the  place  of  his  crucifixion  we  have  just  left. 
This  is  a  narrow  street,  probably  forty  or  fifty  feet  above 
the  old  street  on  which  he  was  borne  amidst  the  multi- 
tude to  the  cross.  The  guide  shows  many  places  on  this 
street  connected  with  this  memorable  event.  The  spot  where 
he  stumbled  and  fell  sunder  the  weight  of  the  cross,  the  print 
of  his  elbow  in  the  wall,  the  place  where  he  fainted,  and  where 
he  rested  the  second  time,  and  the  very  window  from  which 
"Pilate's  wife  warned  her  husband  to  have  nothing  to  do 
with  the  persecution  of  the  Just  .Man."  We  passed  under 
the  "Ecce  Homo  Arch"*  with  its  window  a  short  distance 

*The  arch  "Ecce  Homo"  is  constructed  out  of  stone  and  solid 
masonry.  It  is  said  this  is  the  very  window  out  of  which  Pontius 
Pilate's  wife  looked  and  warned  her  husband. 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  201 

to  the  Tower  of  Antonio,  where  the  guide  shows  the  stones 
on  which  Jesus  sat  and  rested  before  taking  up  his  cross. 
Here  once  stood  Pilate's  hall,  in  which  Jesus  was  tried,  fifty 
or  sixty  feet  below  this  spot. 

They  show  you  here  in  Jerusalem  the  traditional  house 
of  St.  Veronica,  whose  picture  adorns  so  many  churches  in 
Italy,  Spain,  and  France.  The  old  masters  prided  them- 
selves in  its  production  with  as  much  ambition  as  they  paint- 
ed their  Madonnas.  What  made  her  name  so  famous,  it 
seems,  was  that  when  the  Saviour  passed  near  her  door 
loaded  with  the  execrations  of  the  mob,  she  ran  out  and 
wiped  the  perspiration  from  his  face  with  her  handkerchief. 
"A  perfect  portrait  of  the  Saviour's  face  was  left  upon  the 
handkerchief,  and  remains  to  this  day."  Mark  Twain  said 
he  knew  this  to  be  true,  because  he  saw  "  this  handkerchief 
in  a  cathedral  in  Paris,  another  in  Spain,  and  two  others 
in  Italy.  At  Milan  cathedral  it  cost  five  francs  to  see  it, 
and  at  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  it  is  almost  impossible  to  see  it 
at  any  price." 

I  have  been  amused  reading  the  story  of  the  Wandering 
Jew.  He,  too,  lived  here  once.  I  suppose  for  half  a  franc 
you  could  see  his  house  at  any  time.  I  did  not  see  it;  I 
was  wandering  about  in  too  many  other  places.  For  eight- 
een centuries  his  story  has  been  celebrated  in  song  and  read 
by  millions.  It  is  said  on  that  memorable  day  of  the  cruci- 
fixion, when  the  Saviour  would  have  sat  down  and  rested 
for  a  moment,  this  old  Jew  pushed  him  out  of  his  door  and 
said,  "  Move  on ! "  The  Lord  said :  "  Move  on,  thou,  like- 
wise ;  and  the  command  has  never  been  revoked  from  that 
day  to  this."  It  is  said  he  has  sought  death  in  every  con- 
ceivable form — in  battle,  lightning,  and  in  storm — but  he  al- 
ways escaped ;  he  could  not  die.  He  is  growing  old  now, 
but  looks  always  the  same.  One  thing  he  must  do — every 
fifty  years  he  must  report  in  Jerusalem. 


202  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ABOUT  THE  JEWS. 

They  have  four  holy  cities  in  Palestine — Jerusalem,  Ti- 
berias, Hebron,  and  Safed.  They  believe  their  race  will 
be  restored  to  this  country.  They  are  increasing  rapidly 
in  this  city  and  other  portions  of  Palestine.  Many  of  them 
are  of  Portuguese  and  Spanish  origin,  but  they  come  here 
from  everywhere — Germany,  Hungary,  Poland,  England, 
and  Russia.  They  all  seem  to  be  orthodox — very  poor,  and 
dependent  on  charity  among  their  brethren.  They  come 
here  to  sleep  in  their  burial-ground  on  the  slopes  above  Je- 
hoshaphat,  or  the  brook  Kidron.  You  can  distinguish  the 
Polish  Jews  from  all  others.  They  look  effeminate,  and 
wear  long  curls  about  their  ears.  They  speak  German  and 
a  kind  of  Spanish ;  and  a  few,  English.  The  Hebrew  is  the 
conversational  language  used  in  Jerusalem. 

The  most  curious  sight  and  affecting  scene  I  ever  wit- 
nessed was  in  a  narrow,  long  lane,  or  street,  on  the  west 
wall  of  the  Temple-area,  outside  the  inclosure  of  the  Mosque 
El-Aksa,  and  near  Robinson's  Arch,  called  the  "Jews'  Wail- 
ing Place."  I  had  gone,  like  everybody  who  visits  Jeru- 
salem, out  of  curiosity.  It  was  one  Friday  afternoon  when 
I  saw  many  curious-looking  people  hurrying  down  narrow 
streets  all  in  one  direction.  Presently  we  came  in  front  of 
a  cyclopean  wall,  thirty  to  forty  feet  high,  built  of  immense 
blocks  of  stone.  The  Jews  are  not  permitted  to  enter  in- 
side the  Temple-wall,  but  have  rented  from  the  Moham- 
medans the  privilege  to  wait  and  worship  outside.  Every 
Friday  afternoon,  and  on  festival  occasions,  they  assemble 
here  to  bewail  the  downfall  of  the  Holy  City  and  destruc- 
tion of  their  Temple.  It  is  as  near  as  they  can  approach  to 
their  holy  places.  Look  at  them  while  they  read  their  old 
Hebrew  Bibles  and  hymn-books,  bowing  to  the  wall  and 
kissing  the  very  stones  until  they  are  worn  smooth !  There 
were  a  large  number  of  Id  rabbis  with  patriarchal  beards* 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem. 


203 


204  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

and  young  men  whose  hearts  looked  like  they  would  burst 
with  grief,  while  their  eyes  swam  with  tears.  The  whole 
street  was  filled  with  them  and  their  sad  lamentations. 
There  were  a  few  venerable  mothers  and  young  girls  read- 
ing aloud  and  weeping ;  but  they  have  separate  hours  set 
apart  for  their  worship.  I  saw  the  Bishop  of  Hebron  in 
his  satin  robe,  and  old  men  and  boys  with  long  cloaks  and 
fur  caps  on.  A  long  curl  dangled  behind  each  ear,  and  a 
part  of  their  heads  were  shaved.  Four  of  these  large  stones 
bear  the  Phenician  bevel.  They  are  about  three  feet  high 
and  twelve  feet  long.  They  are  near  the  ground,  and  are, 
without  a  doubt,  I  think,  a  part  of  the  original  wall  that 
inclosed  Solomon's  Temple.  These  are  the  ones  they  kiss. 
The  other  stones  in  the  wall  surrounding  them  have  no 
bevel. 

When  the  Jews  worship  in  their  synagogues  they  turn 
their  faces  toward  the  old  Temple,  like  the  Mohammedans 
face  toward  Mecca.  I  give  below  a  specimen  of  the  lam- 
entations, responses,  etc.,  they  repeat  at  their  "Wailing 
Place"  on  Fridays: 

For  the  palace  that  lies  desolate, 
E.  We  sit  in  solitude  and  mourn;  ' 
For  the  walls  that  are  overthrown, 
R.  We  sit  in  solitude  and  mourn ; 
For  our  majesty  that  is  departed, 
E.  We  sit  in  solitude  and  mourn ; 
For  the  priests  who  have  stumbled, 
E.  We  sit  in  solitude  and  mourn ; 
For  the  kings  who  have  despised  him, 
E.  We  sit  in  solitude  and  mourn. 

The  Lamentations  of  Jeremiah,  the  most  tender-hearted 
of  all  the  prophets,  have  kept  this  funeral-dirge  of  Jerusa- 
lem alive  in  the  memories  of  these  people,  whose  deepest 
humiliation  and  hope  of  deliverance  find  in  them  their  full- 
est expression. 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  205 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

MOUNT  MORIAH — THE  MOSQUE  OF  OMAR — THE  WON- 
DERFUL KOCK — MOHAMMED'S  DREAM. 

LET  us  go  from  the  Jews'  Wailing  Place  to  the  Mosque 
of  Omar.  If  we  could  climb  over  the  lofty  wall  above 
us  we  would  be  inside  the  inclosure.  We  move  along  the 
narrow,  retired  lane  of  these  Jews  toward  the  south  wall  of 
the  city.  We  see  the  remains  of  a  large  arch  Robinson 
discovered,  with  stones  nearly  twenty  feet  long.  This  ex- 
plorer decided  from  the  great  width  of  the  arch,  about  fifty 
feet,  it  must  have  served  as  a  bridge  over  the  Tyropoeon 
valley,  which  separates  the  Temple-area  from  Mount  Zion, 
on  which  Solomon's  Palace  stood.  It  is  generally  conceded 
that  Robinson's  supposition  is  correct,  by  excavations  since 
made.  The  east  wall  of  the  Temple-area,  fronting  Mount 
of  Olives,  is  the  city  wall  also ;  but  it  is  surrounded  on  its 
other  three  sides  by  high  walls  that  divide  the  Mosque  of 
Omar  from  the  city.  The  area  inclosed  is  about  forty  acres 
square,  or  one-fourth  of  the  area  of  Jerusalem.  The  area 
is  about  the  same  size  as  that  formerly  devoted  to  the  Tem- 
ple. It  embraces  the  south-east  portion  of  the  city,  and 
extends  up  the  east  wall  nearly  to  the  Golden  Gate,  with 
the  Wailing  Place  on  the  west.  Until  a  few  years  ago  no 
Christian  was  permitted  to  pollute  this  holy  ground.  It 
was  too  sacred.  But  now  a  little  backshish  and  a  permit 
from  the  American  Consul  will  admit  you  to  the  "holiest 
of  all  the  holies."  In  this  large  open  area  stand  a  few 
buildings,  among  the  most  interesting  to  the  Christian,  ex- 
cept the  Holy  Sepulcher,  in  the  world.  The  Mosque  of 
Omar,  on  the  original  site  of  Solomon's  Temple,  and^  a 
basilica  called  El-Aksa,  compose  the  great  attractions. 
This  is  the  old  Mount  Moriah  of  the  Bible,  on  which  Abra- 
ham was  about  to  offer  up  Isaac ;  once  the  threshing-floor 


206  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  Araunah  the  Jebusite.  It  is  now  in  the  hands  of  the 
Moslems,  who  regard  it  as  sacred  equally  with  the  Jews. 
"  The  Moslems  call  it  the  Haram-esh-Sherif,  or  noble  sanc- 
tuary, the  pride  of  old  and  new  Jerusalem,  one  of  the  most 
profoundly  interesting  spots  in  the  world."  Mount  Moriah 
is  the  acropolis  of  Jerusalem,  the  glory  of  the  Mohamme- 
dans and  the  lament  of  the  Jews,  which,  up  to  the  Crimean 
war,  no  Christian  was  permitted  to  enter.  "  For  three  hun- 
dred years,  from  Constantine  to  the  conquest  of  Omar  (637), 
and  during  the  reign  of  the  Crusaders  (1099  to  1187),  it 
was  occupied  by  the  Christians."  The  whole  inclosure 
looks  like  a  gigantic  fortress,  rising  from  the  declivities  of 
a  hill  on  three  sides.  Its  masonry  embraces  several  peri- 
ods, from  the  days  of  Solomon  and  Herod  to  modern  times. 
The  beautiful  plateau,  or  grounds,  paved  with  marble  and 
ornamented  with  fountains,  cypresses,  and  an  orange-grove 
near  El-Aksa,  heightens  the  charms  of  this  grand  inclosure. 
Recent  excavations  have  undoubtedly  proved  that  these 
buildings  now  occupy  the  site  of  the  old  Temple,  within 
whose  walls  once  rested  the  ark  of  the  covenant,  and  made 
doubly  sacred  by  the  presence  of  our  Lord  and  his  disci- 
ples. Herod,  after  Solomon,  built  a  temple  on  the  same 
site  that  excited  the  wonder  of  the  disciples,  who  exclaimed : 
"Master,  see  what  manner  of  stones,  and  what  buildings 
are  here !  And  Jesus  answered,  saying,  There  shall  not  be 
left  one  stone  upon  another  that  shall  not  be  thrown  down." 
After  its  destruction  by  Titus  in  A.D.  70,  Hadrian  built 
the  Temple  of  Jupiter,  and  we  lose  sight  of  any  more  struct- 
ures on  this  sacred  spot  till  the  time  of  Constantine. 
The  present  building,  Mosque  of  Omar,  is  in  the  shape  of 
anoctagon,  and  rises  from  a  platform  one  hundred  and  sev- 
enty feet  high.  The  dome  above  it  is  sixty-five  feet  in  di- 
ameter, and  swells  its  graceful  proportions  nearly  one  hun- 
dred feet  in  height.  It  is  the  most  beautiful  building  in 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  207 

Jerusalem,  and  stands  out  conspicuously  from  every  direc- 
tion you  behold  it.  It  is  only  second  to  Mecca  itself  with 
the  Mohammedans.  The  immense  dome  is  supported  by 
columns  of  porphyry  rescued  from  the  debris  of  Solomon's 
or  Herod's  Temple.  Some  of  the  magnificent  columns  sup- 
porting the  roof  are  no  less  than  forty  feet  in  height  and 
four  feet  in  diameter.  The  floor  is  laid  in  marble  mosaic. 
But  the  most  interesting  object  shown  in  the  magnificent 
interior  is  the  famous  rock  on  which  David  stood  persuad- 
ing the  angel  to  spare  Jerusalem.  From  this  rock  Moham- 
med ascended  to  the  heavens,  and  the  rock  started  after 
him,  but  was  caught  by  the  angel  Gabriel,  who  stood  by. 
You  know  this  must  be  so.  The  guide  shows  you  the  print 
of  the  angel's  fingers  upon  it.  Then  he  shows  you  the  foot- 
prints of  the  prophet  on  the  rock,  where  he  took  his  flight 
to  paradise  above.  They  (the  Moslems)  believe  this  rock  is 
suspended  in  the  air,  etc.  It  is  about  fifty-seven  feet  long 
and  forty-three  wide,  and  rises  five  feet  above  the  mosaic 
marble  pavement  beneath  the  majestic  dome.  Upon  this 
rock  Isaac  was  offered  up,  here  the  ark  of  the  covenant 
rested,  and  here  burnt-offerings  were  made.  It  is  also  the 
center  of  the  earth,  according  to  Mohammedan  authority. 
What  strikes  you  most  curiously  are  the  antique  remains 
of  columns,  capitals,  and  stones  preserved  by  being  worked 
in  the  present  buildings  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar  and  Basil- 
ica El-Aksa,  that  suggest  a  grandeur  of  magnificence  "we 
have  been  taught  to  regard  as  the  princeliest  ever  seen  on 
the  earth.  They  call  up  pictures  of  a  pageant  that  is  fa- 
miliar to  all  imaginations — camels  laden  with  spices  and 
treasure;  beautiful  slaves,  presents  for  Solomon's  harem;  a 
long  cavalcade  of  richly  caparisoned  beasts  and  warriors, 
and  Sheba's  Queen  in  the  van  of  this  vision  of  Oriental 
magnificence."  There  are  some  inscriptions  from  the  Koran, 
and  other  objects  I  cannot  enumerate. 


208  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Under  the  south-east  corner  of  the  Temple-area,  about 
twenty  feet  probably,  under-ground,  have  been  discovered 
the  most  wonderful  remains  about  Jerusalem.  They  are 
immense  under-ground  corridors,  built  with  arches  and  col- 
umns, one  above  the  other,  instead  of  filling  up  the  ground, 
to  the  height  of  one  hundred  or  more  feet.  On  top  it  is 
covered  over  with  earth,  which  makes  it  appear  like  solid 
ground.  By  this  arrangement  a  part  of  the  Valley  of  Je- 
hoshaphat  was  incorporated  into  the  Temple-inclosure.  Many 
of  the  stones  are  of  Phenician  bevel,  whether  of  Solomon's 
or  Herod's  time  we  do  not  know — but  probably  the  former,  as 
they  could  be  used  by  Herod  from  former  buildings,  just  as 
those  splendid  remains  in  El-Aksa  and  Omar  have  been 
preserved.  In  the  columns  holes  have  been  cut,  as  if  to 
serve  for  hitching  horses.  This  is  the  reason  these  corridors 
have  often  been  called  Solomon's  stable.  But  then  the  Cru- 
saders may  have  used  them  and  cut  these  holes.  Who  can 
tell? 

Some  more  old  columns,  arches,  and  bronze  sockets  for 
double  gates  may  be  seen  under  the  grand  entrance  to  the 
Temple  beneath  the  Golden  gate.  The  excavations  of  Cap- 
tains Warren  and  Wilson  showed  a  perfect  honey-comb  of 
caverns,  wells,  and  reservoirs  underneath  Moriah  in  ancient 
times;  so  Jerusalem  was  enabled  to  stand  long  sieges  in 
times  of  war,  as  far  as  a  supply  of  the  "  pure  waters  of  life 
were  concerned."* 

The  Golden  gate,  to  which  I  have  alluded,  on  the  east- 
ern wall  fronting  Jehoshaphat  and  Mount  of  Olives,  is  of 
very  ancient  origin,  profusely  ornamented,  and  probably 
corresponds  to  the  "closed  gate"  of  Ezekiel  xliv.  1,  13; 
but  Dr.  Schaff  thinks  it  of  Byzantine  origin.  The  gate  is 
closjed  now.  I  walked  very  near  it.  There  is  a  very  high, 
steep  bluff  along  the  entire  east  wall,  fronting  Jehoshaphat. 
I  found  it  difficult  to  walk  in  places.  The  Mohammedans 

*It  is  supposed  that  these  wells  are  the  sources  of  the  Virgin's  Fountain 
in  the  valley  below. 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  209 

f< 

believe  the  Christians  will  finally  break  through  the  Golden 
gate.  It  looks  a  little  tottering  now.  Here  both  Jews  and 
Mohammedans  localize  the  scenes  of  judgment-day,  which 
shall  be  pronounced  by  the  Lord  standing  on  the  slope  of 
Mount  Olivet  opposite  this  gate.  The  Mohammedans  say 
that  Mohammed  and  the  Lord  together  will  pronounce  the 
judgments.  It  was  through  this  gate  Christ  made  his  tri- 
umphal entry  into  Jerusalem.  Bishop  Marvin,  in  1877r 
explored  an  immense  quarry  under  the  city  not  far  from 
the  Damascus  gate,  where  he  saw  the  marks  of  tools,  small 
pieces  or  blocks  of  stone  chiseled  off  by  masons.  He  thinks 
here  the  immense  stones  for  the  Temple,  and  other  magnifi- 
cent structures  erected  during  the  reign  of  David's  luxu- 
rious son,  were  dressed  and  fitted,  every  stone  being  pre- 
pared for  its  place  beforehand,  then  moved  along  a  shaft  or 
subterranean  passage  underneath  the  Temple  area  and  ele- 
vated to  their  places  in  the  walls  by  ponderous  machinery. 
"Hiram  and  Solomon's  builders  did  hew  them  in  the  stone- 
quarries."  So  perfectly  was  the  work  done  that  the  house, 
when  it  was  in  building,  was  built  of  stone  made  ready  be- 
fore it  was  brought  thither,  so  that  there  was  "neither  ham- 
mer, nor  ax,  nor  any  tool  of  iron  heard  in  the  house  while 
it  was  building."  Even  to  this  day  the  work  of  the  Phe- 
nician  masons,  when  seen,  is  identified  in  Jerusalem.  The 
peculiar  style  of  bevel  in  stone  indicates  the  presence  of 
that  people.  Many  stones,  cut  three  thousand  years  ago 
and  built  into  new  walls,  proclaim  Hiram's  builders.  They 
have  been  recovered  from  the  debris  of  old  ruins,  and  thus 
preserved  to  perpetuate  the  memories  of  by-gone  ages. 

Let  us  now7  return  to  our  hotel,  the  Damascus,  near  the 
Holy  Sepulcher,  which  we  have  selected  for  a  few  days  in- 
side the  city.  We  have  now  seen  the  most  interesting  sights, 
save  the  explorations  at  the  "  Knights  of  St.  Johns,"  where 
the  rubbish  has  been  removed  from  around  an  old  building. 
14 


210  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

I  looked  down  thirty  to  forty  feet  upon  the  foundation 
walls,  with  its  door-ways  still  standing.  It  was  on  the  edge 
of  a  street  that  had  been  often  pressed,  probably,  by  the 
feet  of  the  Saviour.  If  these  valuable  excavations  could 
have  been  continued,  many  of  the  wonders  of  the  old  city 
might  have  been  exhumed.  But  the  people  became  alarmed, 
and  feared  the  foundations  of  the  houses  they  now  live  in 
would  topple  in  if  the  work  of  the  archaeologist  did  not 
cease ;  and  the  work  was  suspended  several  years  ago.  To- 
morrow morning  I  propose  to  take  you  on  a  walk  with  me 
outside  and  around  the  walls  of  Jerusalem. 

CHAPTER  XX. 

AROUND  THE  WALLS  OF  JERUSALEM — THE  VIRGIN'S 
FOUNTAIN — POOLS  OF  SILO  AM — DOWN  THE  KIDRON, 
OR  VALLEY  OF  JEHOSHAPHAT — RETURN  BELOW  THE 
CITY  OF  SILOAM — BY  ABSALOM'S  TOMB — RECROSS  THE 
VALLEY  NEAR  GETHSEMANE. 

HpO  understand  the  topography  of  the  city,  you  must  pict- 
1.  ure  Jerusalem  on  several  hills,  with  the  Tyropoeon  val- 
ley running  diagonally  through  it.  This  is  nearly  filled  up 
now.  Then  you  must  imagine  a  stone  wall,  thirty  to  sixty 
feet  high  and  very  thick,  running  all  around  it,  forming  a 
square,  or  nearly  so,  with  five  gates.  On  the  west  the  Jaffa 
gate ;  on  the  south,  Zion  and  the  Dung  gates ;  on  the  east 
are  the  Golden  gate  and  St.  Stephen's  gate,  and  on  the 
north  the  Damascus  gate.  The  Golden  gate  is  closed. 
The  west  wall,  facing  Jaffa  on  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  and 
the  east  wall,  facing  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat  and  Mount 
of  Olives,  run  along  on  the  summit  of  precipices  and  above 
deep  gorges  formed  by  the  brook  Gihon  on  the  west,  and  the 
brook  Kidron  on  the  east.  Beyond  the  north  wall  lie  hills 
and  plains.  On  the  south  of  the  city  is  a  projecting  point 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  211 

of  a  high  hill,  or  mountain,  that  extends  to  the  junction  of 
the  Gihon  and  Kidron,  far  below  the  Temple  Hill.  The 
brook  Kidron  on  the  east,  now  dry,  flows  through  the  Val- 
ley of  Jehoshaphat,  curving  slightly  as  it  passes,  several  hun- 
dred feet  or  more  below  a  steep  precipice,  at  the  corner  of 
the  city  wall  on  Mt.  Moriah  (Temple  Hill),  and  joins  the 
brook  Gihon,  that  sweeps  down  the  west  wall,  curving  below 
Mt.  Zion,  flowing  south-east  through  the  Valley  of  Hin- 
nom  (when  it  flows),  until  it  joins  with  the  Kidron  a  mile 
or  more,  I  should  suppose,  below  the  city.  This  leaves  this 
projecting  point  of  mountain  referred  to,  now  cultivated  in 
wheat  and  vegetables,  south  of  the  Dung  gate,  which  prob- 
ably was  all  covered  by  the  old  city  during  Solomon's  time, 
one  thousand  years  before  our  Saviour  was  born.  Along 
these  projecting  precipices,  hills,  and  mountains,  formed  by 
these  brooks  and  gorges,  are  innumerable  caves,  catacombs, 
tombs,  etc.,  scattered  all  around  Jerusalem.  The  hill  of 
Mt.  Zion  is  the  south-west  corner  of  the  city,  and  the  Temple- 
area,  or  Mt.  Moriah,  occupies  the  south-east  corner  of  Jerusa- 
lem. These  are  the  two  great  hills  around  which  seem  to 
group  the  most  glorious  reminiscences  of  ancient  times.  I 
might  incidentally  mention  that  a  portion  of  Mt.  Zion  is  still 
outside  the  south-west  corner  of  the  city  wall.  This  is  one 
of  the  localities  I  desire  to  show  you  in  my  walk  outside 
this  morning. 

Starting  on  foot,  with  my  guide,  Selim,  from  the  Damas- 
cus Hotel  toward  the  Jaffa  gate,  through  a  drizzling  rain, 
one  of  the  first  things  that  will  attract  your  attention  will 
be  your  heels.  The  streets  are  so  narrow  and  crooked  and 
the  stones  worn  so  smooth  the  only  safe  way  for  navigation 
I  have  found  yet  is  on  the  back  of  a  donkey.  They  plant 
their  little  feet  between  .these  «tones  with  unerring  reliabil- 
ity. Down  one  street  and  up  another,  we  soon  reach  the 
Jerusalem  Hotel.  Close  by  is  Hezekiah's  Pool,  around 


212 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


POOL  OF  HEZEKIAH. 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  213 

which  rises  the  solid  masonry  of  lofty  houses.  It  was  here 
David  met  Uriah's  wife  and  fell  in  love  with  her.  Pass- 
ing out  the  Jaffa  gate  on  the  west  wall,  we  walk  close  under 
its  shadow,  along  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  until  we  reach 
the  south-west  corner,  and,  turning,  we  are  on  Mt.  Zion. 
We  are  continually  reminded  of  the  times  of  our  Saviour, 
and  of  customs  that  existed  even  in  the  reign  of  David. 
We  saw  piles  of  grain  in  the  open  bazaars  before  we  reached 
the  Jaffa  gate.  When  sold  it  is  measured,  shaken  down, 
pressed  together,  running  over.  The  purchaser  stands 
close  by  to  see  it  well  done.  They  use  little  balances  to 
weigh  small  things.  The  lepers  outside  the  gate  are  loath- 
some creatures,  sitting  from  morning  till  night  holding  out 
their  hands  or  stubs  of  arms,  begging.  Some  have  lost  their 
noses,  others  their  fingers,  while  all  seem  to  have  husky 
voices.  Some  are  blind,  deformed,  or  crippled,  presenting 
incurable  diseases,  hereditary,  but  not  contagious  from  ordi- 
nary contact.  They  have  no  Saviour  now  to  heal  their  de- 
formities or  restore  them  to  sight.  They  have,  however, 
been  provided  with  a  hospital,  where  they  are  well  cared 
for.  We  see  the  threshing-floors,  the  goad,  the  separation 
of  the  goats  from  the  sheep,  women  bearing  jars  of  water  on 
their  heads,  and  many  other  sights  common  in  the  days  of 
Christ. 

Here  on  Mt.  Zion  we  behold  an  old  ruin.  It  is  said  to 
oe  on  the  site  where  the  palace  of  Caiaphas  once  stood. 
The  guide  shows  the  stone  that  closed  the  door  of  our  Lord's 
sepulcher,  the  prison  in  which  he  was  confined,  the  spot 
where  Peter  stood  when  he  denied  his  Master,  and  the  stone 
column  on  which  they  say  the  cock  was  roosting  when  he 
crew.  A  few  yards  south  is  a  black  dome  building,  called 
the  Tomb  of  David  (1  Kinge  ii.  10).  Its  minaret  is  one  of 
the  finest  that  attracts  the  attention  on  approaching  Jerusa- 
lem from  the  south.  Over  the  cave,  in  a  large  upper  room, 


21  4  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

is  the  Coenaculum.  A  barefooted  Arab  boy,  who  came 
running  with  a  great  bunch  of  keys,  unlocked  the  ancient- 
looking  door  for  me.  He  showed  us  in  this  room  where 
Christ  and  the  apostles  took  the  Last  Supper;  where  he 
appeared  to  them  after  his  resurrection,  and  where  the  Holy 
Ghost  had  descended  on  the  day  of  Pentecost.  I  saw  the 
marble  slab  on  which  the  sacrament  was  taken.  In  a  cave 
is  said  to  be  the  tomb  of  David.  "So  David  slept  with  his 
fathers,  and  was  buried  in  the  City  of  David "  (1  Kings  ii. 
10).  He  was  buried  by  his  son  Solomon,  in  Jerusalem, 
with  great  magnificence  and  all  the  funeral  pomp  with 
which  kings  are  buried.  He  had  immense  wealth  buried 
with  him.  Eight  or  nine  hundred  years  afterward,  Hyr- 
canus,  the  high-priest,  when  he  was  besieged,  opened  one 
room  of  David's  sepulcher  and  took  out  three  thousand 
talents.  He  gave  part  of  that  sum  to  Antiochus,  and  by 
that  means  caused  the  siege  to  be  raised.  (Josephus's  An- 
tiquities of  the  Jews,  Seventh  Book,  XV.  3.)  It  was  cov- 
ered over  with  a  large  sheet  (supposed  to  be  under  there). 
I  could  not  see  it.  The  boy  demanded  backshish  in  the 
midst  of  the  breathless  awe  I  had  been  inspired  with.  The 
Turks  are  in  possession  of  this  place  now;  they  regard 
David  one  of  their  prophets.  They  pretend  to  show  the 
Virgin's  residence ;  and  where  she  died,  not  far  off;  and  the 
remains  of  Herod's  palace.  I  have  observed  that  all  this 
cultivated  area  before  me  to  the  south  and  south-east  must 
have  been  a  part  of  the  Jerusalem  of  Herod's  time,  extend- 
ing down  to  the  bluffs  above  Gihon  and  Hinnom.  Let  us 
now  look  across  on  some  historic  ground.  The  hill  over- 
looking the  valley  is  where  Christ's  death  was  plotted.  It 
is  the  Hill  of  Evil  Counsel.  Here  is  the  potter's-field,  or 
Aceldama,  purchased  with  the  thirty  pieces  of  blood-money 
the  guilty  Judas  threw  down  at  the  feet  of  the  priest.  Here 
he  hanged  himself  and  fell  headlong  into  the  valley  below. 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  215 

An  ancient  building  now  marks  the  site  of  Aceldama,  and 
some  bones  of  the  dead  are  visible  deep  down  amidst  the 
stones  on  its  floor.  Excavations  have  laid  bare  old  walls, 
baths,  and  cemented  cisterns  as  perfect  as  in  the  days  of 
Solomon.  You  can  see  the  steps  leading  down  into  these 
cisterns,  cut  in  the  solid  stone.  This  was  probably  one 
of  the  strongholds  of  the  Jebusites  that  David  conquered, 
which  enabled  the  illustrious  king  to  defend  his  palace  on 
Zion  afterward.  This  hill  is  honey-combed  with  graves,  cut 
in  the  soft  limestone  rock.  We  pass  the  Zion  and  Dung 
gates,  and  in  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  we  have  made  the  entire 
length  of  the  south  wall.  We  could  walk  around  the  entire 
city,  if  we  were  to  continue,  in  less  than  one  hour.  Let  us 
now  descend  from  this  high  bluff,  or  hill,  of  Mt.  Moriah 
(Solomon's  Temple-ground)  by  terraced  paths  to  the  Val- 
ley of  Jehoshaphat,  far  below  me.  Here  are  Jerusalem  arti- 
choke, cauliflower,  Irish  potatoes,  pease,  beans,  wheat,  bar- 
ley, etc.,  growing  to  perfection.  The  rubbish  from  the 
south  gate  has  converted  all  this  mountainous  area  south 
into  a  blooming  garden. 

We  can  imagine  how  solid  the  old  city  must  have  been 
from  these  aqueducts,  walls,  baths,  columns,  etc.,  when  the 
judgment  from  the  eternal  Mount  of  Olives,  over  against  it, 
was  pronounced,  that  "not  one  stone  shall  be  left." 

Even  the  present  city,  contrasted  with  its  ancient  ruins, 
impresses  you  with  solidity  rarely  seen  elsewhere.  All  the 
houses  are  of  stone.  Walls,  floors,  door-ways,  and  even  the 
roofs,  resting  on  solid  arches,  are  all  of  stone.  The  stair- 
way I  ascend  in  my  hotel  is  of  stone.  Jerusalem  is  still  a 
wonderful  city.  In  reading  the  Bible,  I  always  imagined 
Jehoshaphat  to  be  a  considerable  valley.  It  is  hardly  a 
hundred  yards  wide  in  places.  In  the  winter  season  the 
Kidron  flows  through  it.  The  valley  looks  like  a  great 
gorge  between  two  mountains.  A  short  distance  below  the 


216  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

south-east  corner  of  the  city  wall  we  came  to  the  Fountain 
of  the  Virgin.  It  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  Jehoshaphat 
from  the  city  of  Siloam.  I  descended  thirty  stone  steps  to 
the  bottom  of  an  excavation  made  in  solid  rock.  Here,  it 
is  said,  the  Virgin  washed  the  infant  Saviour's  clothes  when 
a  child.  I  always  had  supposed  that  Joseph  and  Mary  had 
fled  into  Egypt  with  the  infant  Jesus.  It  seems  that  every 
stone,  cave,  and  spot  about  Jerusalem  is  clothed  with  some 
tradition.  I  believe  these  Arabs  name  places  to  suit  them- 
selves, and  I  think  they  invent  some  of  these  traditions,  too. 
Pursuing  our  walk  down  the  valley,  we  come  to  the  Pool 
of  Siloam,  fed  by  a  fountain  that  has  watered  the  terraced 
gardens  of  the  valley  more  than  three  thousand  years.  In 
fact,  there  are  two  pools,  the  upper  and  lower.  The  bed  of 
the  latter  is  dry,  covered  with  olive  and  fig  trees.  Near  by 
is  a  mulberry-tree,  venerable  for  its  years,  under  whose 
branches,  a  doubtful  tradition  states,  Manasseh  caused  Isa- 
iah to  be  sawed  in  two.  Both  pools  are  quite  near  together, 
about  three  hundred  yards  below  the  Fountain  of  the  Vir- 
gin and  opposite  the  city  of  Siloam.  Several  hundred  yards 
below  is  the  junction  of  the  Kidron  and  Gihon. 

The  upper  pool  is  fed  by  a  subterranean  passage  from  the 
Virgin's  Fountain.  Dr.  Robinson  crawled  through  this 
passage,  making  this  important  discovery.  This  solved  the 
mystery  connected  with  the  sudden  rise  and  fall  of  the  water 
at  certain  hours  of  the  day  in  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin. 
You  remember  Christ  told  the  blind  man  "to  go  to  the  pool 
of  Siloam  and  wash."  There  are  broken  columns  and  re- 
mains of  buildings  scattered  all  through  this  valley.  It 
seems  every  sacred  spot  was  covered  once  with  temples  and 
churches.  The  Crusades  became  notorious  for  works  of 
this  kind  in  the  twelfth  century.  We  crossed  the  little 
valley  and  rambled  along  up  on  the  opposite  side.  Above 
my  head,  on  a  cliff,  hung  the  city  of  Siloam.  We  looked 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  217 

up  hundreds  of  feet  and  saw  a  native  milking  a  cow  on  a 
house-top.  That  milk  must  have  been  very  high.  The 
Arab  boys  and  girls  came  tumbling  down  the  terraced 
walks  from  these  dizzy  heights,  crying,  "Hiwajji!  Hiwajji! 
backshish!  backshish!"  I  couldn't  feel  happy.  They  had 
more  cheek  than  common  boys,  even  for  Arabs,  running  at 
my  heels  and  plucking  their  sleeves,  shouting  at  every 
step.  Siloam  is  a  miserable  Mohammedan  village,  "that 
exists  only  for  the  purpose  of  breeding  cheeky  boys." 

The  Jews'  burial-ground  now  is  on  my  right,  up  the 
slopes  of  Olivet.  Thousands  of  stone  slabs,  with  simple  in- 
scriptions upon  them,  may  be  seen.  Selim  points  out  Zach- 
ariah's  and  St.  James's  tombs,  also  that  of  Absalom.  The 
latter  is  ornamented  with  semi-Doric  columns,  the  interior 
being  half  full  of  small  stones  which  the  Jews,  for  ages  past, 
have  been  throwing  in  as  a  rebuke  to  David's  rebellious  son. 
Passing  near  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  we  recrossed  the 
valley  by  a  splendid  bridge  and  began  the  ascent  of  the 
rugged  precipice  by  a  winding  path  up  to  St.  Stephen's 
gate.  We  stop  a  moment,  about  half-way,  gazing  on  the 
spot  where  this  martyr  was  stoned  to  death.  Resuming  our 
walk  around  the  city  wall,  three  hundred  yards  north  of  the 
south-east  corner,  we  soon  turn  along  the  wall  running  west, 
pass  Damascus  gate,  Jeremiah's  Grotto,  and  continue  until 
we  have  reached  the  Jaffa  gate.  Not  far  from  Jeremiah's 
Grotto,  and  near  the  gate  of  Damascus  outside,  we  stopped 
to  study  the  locality  Dr.  Schaff  and  other  able  writers  claim 
is  the  true  Calvary.  We  cannot  believe  it.  It  is  said  it  has 
been  an  execution-ground  from  time  immemorial,  and  being 
situated  "outside  the  city  gate"  on  a  hill,  with  suggestive 
surroundings,  it  is  the  veritable  Golgotha.  But  the  city 
wall,  like  Jerusalem  itself,  has  been  destroyed  and  rebuilt 
so  many  times,  might  not  the  hill  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher, 
at  the  time  of  the  execution,  have  been  itself  "  outside  the 


218  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

city  gate?"  I  believe  in  the  present  traditional  spot,  which 
is  covered  by  the  Holy  Sepulcher,  inside  the  present  city 
wall. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

ASCENT  OF  MOUNT  OLIVET — VIEW  FROM  ITS  SUMMIT — 
SIGHTS,  SCENES,  AND  HOLY  PLACES. 

JERUSALEM  is  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above 
U  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  and  three  thousand  seven  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  Dead  Sea.  Hence  the  phrase,  "  To  go 
up  to  Jerusalem."  But  Mount  of  Olives  is  still  two  to 
three  hundred  feet  higher  than  the  Temple  Hill,  separated 
from  the  city  by  the  brook  Kidron.  It  rises  in  full  view, 
broadside  of  the  city  on  the  east,  its  slopes  still  being  cov- 
ered with  olive-trees,  growing  among  limestone  rock.  What- 
ever changes  Jerusalem  may  have  undergone,  Olivet  re- 
mains the  same.  It  is  intimately  connected  with  the  life  of 
the  Saviour  and  his  disciples,  and  around  its  slopes  are 
many  of  the  most  sacred  and  hallowed  spots.  Going  out 
St.  Stephen's  gate  on  foot,  descending  the  precipice,  we 
cross  Jehoshaphat  and  begin  the  ascent  of  Olivet.  At  its 
base  on  our  right  is  the  garden  of  Gethsemane,  on  our  left  the 
tomb  of  the  Virgin.  We  descended  into  a  rock-hewn  grotto 
by  twenty-eight  stone  steps,  which  we  found  crowded  with 
pilgrims  worshiping  before  the  tomb  on  mats.  This  church 
looks  to  be  one  of  the  most  ancient  I  have  seen,  actually 
hewn  down  deep  out  of  the  solid  rock.  This  is  the  spot  where 
the  Virgin  lay  after  her  death,  now  consecrated  to  her  mem- 
ory by  a  magnificent  chapel  and  mausoleum.  It  belongs  to 
the  Greeks,  Latins,  and  Armenians,  but  the  poor  Copts  are 
allowed  a  little  chapel  off  to  themselves.  I  found  only  five 
or  six  of  these  worshiping  at  the  time  I  entered.  There 
were  priests  passing  in  and  out  the  Virgin's  tomb,  many 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem. 


219 


••ill 


> 


220  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

pilgrims  kissing  and  wetting  its  faultless  marble  with  their 
tears,  and  in  front  of  the  shrine  sat  hundreds  of  pilgrims 
on  little  mats,  bowing  their  heads  to  the  paved  floor,  while 
incense  was  scattered  throughout  the  grotto,  and  even  on 
their  heads,  by  the  Latin  priest. 

Around  the  garden  of  Gethsemane  is  a  high  wall,  in- 
closing probably  one-fourth  of  an  acre,  adorned  with  lovely 
walks  and  flowers.  I  counted  eight  venerable  olive-trees 
of  immense  proportions,  many  centuries  old,  believed  to 
have  been  planted  here  when  the  Saviour  knelt  on  this  sa- 
cred spot.  But  I  think  this  is  very  doubtful.  It  was  here 
that  Judas  betrayed  the  Lord  with  a  kiss,  and  I  saw  a  stone 
slab  that  marks  the  spot  where  Jesus  suffered  in  agony 
while  great  drops  of  bloody  sweat  fell  from  his  fainting 
brow.  The  gardener  presented  me  a  little  bouquet  of  flow- 
ers, and  I  procured  a  number  of  thorns,  in  remembrance 
of  the  crown,  from  the  tree  that  grows  in  Gethsemane.  The 
Latin  Christians  are  in  possession  of  this  sacred  spot,  but 
the  Greeks  have  built  an  opposition  garden  just  across  the 
street  which  they  claim  answers  as  well  as  the  original. 

Let  us  begin  our  ascent  by  the  pathway — now  inclosed 
by  stone  walls — our  Saviour  so  often  climbed,  and  up  which 
David  fled  from  the  wrath  of  his  enraged  son  Absalom.  It 
is  quite  steep,  but  we  reach  the  summit  in  half  a  mile  or 
less;  ascend  a  tower,  from  which  a  view  of  unparalleled 
grandeur  bursts  upon  an  enraptured  vision.  The  little  vil- 
lage of  Tur,  below  our  feet,  lies  scattered  on  the  brow  of  Mt. 
Olivet  in  misery,  poverty,  and  rags ;  but  I  look  twenty  miles 
to  the  east  over  mountains  of  stone  that  present  a  scene  of  des- 
erts, desolation,  and  ruin,  over  which  seem  to  hang  an  impen- 
etrable gloom.  We  behold  the  Jordan  threading  its  way 
through  its  verdant  valley  toward  the  Dead  Sea.  Beyond 
are  the  mountains  of  Moab,  from  whose  lofty  range  rises 
Kebo  in  its  solitary  grandeur.  To  the  left  is  the  Mount  of 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem.  221 


Temptation,  where  Christ  was  tempted,  and  north  of  us  are  the 
hills  of  Scopus,  from  which  Titus  first  looked  on  the  doomed 
city.  To  the  west  burst  on  our  enchanted  vision  the  city  of 
Jerusalem,  over  whose  beauty  the  prophets  once  lingered, 
and  the  psalmist  David  and  Solomon  hung  in  rapture  nearly 
three  thousand  years  ago.  How  often  did  our  blessed  Sav- 
iour, from  this  very  mount,  gaze  upon  these  glorious  scenes  I 
Though  she  sits  in  sackcloth  and  in  mourning,  Jerusalem 
looks  beautiful  yet  from  Olivet.  Away  over  beyond  the 
city  we  can  see  Mizpeh,  from  which  Samuel  judged  Israel. 
(1  Sam.  vii.  6.)  Turning  a  little  south-west,  looking  over 
the  fields  of  the  shepherds,  rises  a  city  on  a  hill,  the  embat- 
tled Monastery  of  the  Church  of  the  Nativity  at  Bethlehem. 
Farther  to  the  left  is  a  high  mountain  known  as  the  Cave 
of  Adullam,  where  David  hid  from  the  wrath  of  the  Philis- 
tines when  they  camped  on  the  plain  Rephaim  near  Jeru- 
salem. 

We  descend  now  to  the  site  of  the  ancient  church  erected 
in  the  fourth  century  by  Helena,  called  the  Church  of  As- 
cension. St.  Luke  says  "  he  led  them  out  as  far  as  to  Beth- 
any," which  is  two  miles  east  of  Jerusalem,  over  the  brow 
of  Olivet.  But  under  this  little  domed  sepulcher,  for 
backshish,  you  can  see  the  invariable  print  of  the  Sav- 
iour's foot,  which  he  left  in  the  rock  on  ascending  into 
heaven.  There  were  originally  two  of  these  prints,  but  they 
say  the  "Moslems  stole  one  of  them." 

There  is  another  beautiful  church  close  by  that  commem- 
orates the  spot  where  the  Saviour  first  taught  his  disciples 
to  say  the  Lord's  Prayer.  It  was  erected  about  seventeen 
years  ago  by  the  Princess  Latour  d'Auvergne,  a  relative  of 
Napoleon  III.,  in  the  style  of  a  Campo  Santo,  in  which  she 
had  inscribed  on  thirty-one  stone  slabs  this  memorable 
prayer,  in  as  many  different  languages,  as  a  "symbol  of  the 
unity  and  universality  of  Christian  devotion."  There  is  a 
pretty  white  monument  that  perpetuates  her  memory.  En- 


222  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

tering  the  vestibule,  my  hands,  face,  and  body  turned  as 
blue  as  indigo  from  the  reflected  light  of  its  stained  windows. 
I  listened  for  a  moment  to  plaintive  notes,  chanted  through 
distant  corridors  from  shrines,  that  fell  on  my  ear  in  sad- 
ness. It  was  the  voice  of  a  nun  at  her  morning  devotions. 
I  extended  my  walk  far  beyond  to  the  brow  of  Olivet,  be- 
low which  slumbered  in  its  solitude  the  village  of  Bethany. 
I  shall  see  this  famous  place  on  my  way  to  the  Jordan  and 
Dead  Sea. 

Selim  reminds  me  the  hours  are  growing  late ;  that  the 
smoking  joints  of  mutton,  delicious  soup,  pease,  beans,  and 
potatoes,  luscious  dates  from  Egypt,  figs  and  oranges  from 
Jaffa,  are  awaiting  me  at  the  Damascus.  Returning  from 
the  farthest  brow  of  Olivet,  I  stopped  a  few  minutes  in  the 
ragged  village  of  Tur.  A  woman  motioned  to  her  little  ba- 
by, crying,  "  Backshish  "  (present) ;  and  to  induce  my  favor- 
able consideration  of  her  claims,  she  added  she  was  a  Chris- 
tian. She  gave  me  some  specimens  of  olive-wood,  which 
I  brought  away  as  souvenirs  of  my  visit.  All  day  I  had 
been  lost  in  silent  contemplation  and  reverie  on  this  conse- 
crated mount.  There  was  a  charm  about  its  brow  that 
filled  me  with  joy.  Such  views,  such  grandeur  and  sublim- 
ity, I  had  never  beheld,  even  from  the  pyramids  of  Egypt. 
The  thought,  too,  that  I  was  standing  on  sacred  ground,  hal- 
lowed by  the  footsteps  of  our  blessed  Jesus  and  his  apostles, 
who  had  once  knelt  here,  saying,  "  Our  Father,  who  art  in 
heaven,"  impressed  me  with  the  gravest  solemnity. 

If  Jerusalem  has  changed,  Olivet  is  the  same.  If  her 
streets  have  been  filled  with  the  debris  of  twenty  sieges,  her 
walls  and  temples  overthrown  by  triumphant  armies,  and 
her  once  memorable  places  lost  in  obscurity,  Mount  Olivet 
still  stands  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  all  the  sacred 
mountains  that  rise  around  about  her.  As  we  descended 
its  slopes  we  turned  to  the  left  and  soon  reached  an  open- 


In  and  Near  Jerusalem. 


223 


224  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ing  in  the  rocky  mountain-side.  Selim  lighted  the  candles, 
we  bowed  low  and  soon  disappeared  in  cavernous  depths, 
walking  up  and  down  one  street  and  then  another,  looking 
at  the  niches  and  long  galleries  where  the  bodies  of  thou- 
sands were  once  entombed,  but  where  not  even  a  bone  or 
the  dust  is  visible  now.  The  most  notable  of  these  tombs, 
cut  in  these  mountains  of  limestone  rock  around  the  city, 
are  known  as  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  Judges,  and*Proph- 
ets.  They  probably  date  from  the  first  century.  Some  of 
them  were  very  elaborate,  protected  by  doors  of  stone  slabs- 
that  swung  on  projections,  top  and  bottom,  like  primitive 
gates.  Then  tombs  were  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  and  the  body 
placed  in  through  a  small  opening  for  a  door.  Before  this 
a  slab,  with  appropriate  inscriptions  upon  it,  was  generally 
fitted  to  its  place  and  set  up  before  the  door.  Against  this 
slab  a  heavy  stone  was  rolled  to  keep  it  in  place.  By  roll- 
ing this  away  the  dead  man — when  commanded  "not  to  rise 
up,"  but  to  come  forth,  and  he  came  forth,  bound  hand  and 
foot,  with  grave-clothes  on — was  enabled  to  obey  the  divine 
command.  It  is  probable,  as  Bishop  Marvin  has  observed, 
the  tomb  of  Lazarus  and  the  new  tomb  prepared  by  order 
of  Joseph,  hewn  into  the  rock,  where  the  body  of  our  Lord 
was  laid,  were  of  this  description. 

Descending,  I  took  a  parting  look  at  Gethsemane.  I  saw 
the  spot  "where  the  three  were  found  asleep."  I  looked 
again  to  contemplate  the  sublimity  of  Christ's  self-resigna- 
tion, where  he  gave  himself  completely  up,  crying,  "Not 
my  will,  but  thine,  be  done ! "  Below  my  path  a  few  paces 
I  hurried  to  gather  up  a  handful  of  pebbles  from  Absa- 
lom's tomb.  When  I  had  reached  my  hotel  to  deposit 
them,  I  was  alarmed  at  the  reckless  disorder  my  fragments 
and  mementos  had  been  thrown  into.  It  looked  for  a  mo- 
ment as  if  I  should  have  to  label  them  without  regard  to 
localities.  Some  of  those  Goliath  pebbles  might  become 


By  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan.    225 

mixed  with  my  Absaloms,  and  these  would  get  mixed  with 
those  from  the  sea-shore.     They  all  looked  alike. 

I  cannot  describe  the  Turkish  bath  I  had  dreamed  of  as 
an  Oriental  luxury.  Like  the  famous  "nargile,"  it  was 
an  arrant  humbug.  I  was  led  down  a  slippery  floor,  and 
came  near  dislocating  a  bone;  yes,  several  of  them.  A 
nude  varlet  then  made  up  a  prodigious  pile  of  billowy  soap- 
suds and  deluged  me  with  them  without  giving  any  notice. 
He  began  to  swab  my  eyes,  head,  and  ears.  I  started  out. 
The  room  was  heating  up  like  a  baker's  oven.  It  was  dis- 
mal, and  most  fearfully  damp.  Then,  in  this  steaming, 
sweltering  chamber  he  laid  me  on  a  raised  platform  and 
wrapped  me  up  in  towels.  He  then  went  off  to  take  a  nap, 
I  suppose.  But  in  a  half  hour  I  shouted  him  up.  He  laid 
away  the  towels  one  by  one,  and  then  wanted  to  polish  off 
— scrub  me  up  and  down.  It  would  have  been  an  elabo- 
rate process.  At  last  I  persuaded  him  off.  I  took  none  of 
that  Turkish  coffee,  or  "nargile,"  the  poets  dream  about. 
The  whole  thing  is  a  consummate  fraud. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

BY  BETHANY  TO  THE  DEAD  SEA  AND  KIVER  JORDAN. 
T  THINK  it  would  ruin  Palestine  to  build  railroads  through 
JL  it.  Think  of  a  whistle  blowing  about  the  tomb  of  Nico- 
demus,  trains  arriving  and  departing  from  Bethlehem !  The 
Turkish  Government  has  established  telegraph  lines  already ; 
that  is  bad  enough.*  But  this  land  of  the  Bible  ought  to 
be  preserved,  with  its  ancient  customs,  habits,  and  mode  of 
living,  as  it  was  thousands  of  years  ago.  It  would  be  the 
richest  legacy  one  generation  could  transmit  to  another. 

•^Notwithstanding  the  Mohammedans,  or  Turks,  rule  Palestine, 
I  learn  incidentally  that  most  of  the  property  in  Jerusalem  is  owned 
by  Christians. 
15 


22(5  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

\Ve  were  to  start  from  FiePs  Hotel,  outside  the  Jaffa  gate. 
Our  party  had  already  been  organized  by  our  excellent 
dragoman.  I  had  but  one  misgiving — it  was  the  terrible 
horseback  ride  over  the  barren  hills  of  Benjamin  and  Judah, 
that  stretched  away  from  Jerusalem  to  the  Dead  Sea.  I 
was  just  convalescent  from  the  donkey  riding  in  Egypt. 
This  might  account  for  so  much  rambling  on  foot  about 
Jerusalem.  Selim  believed  I  was  a  natural-born  pedestrian. 
He  had  a  faint  idea  that  I  had  walked  all  the  way  from 
home,  perhaps.  Our  pilgrims  presented  an  imposing  ap- 
pearance on  my  approach  from  the  Jaffa  gate.  There  were 
nine  Arabian  horses  for  nine  distinguished  tourists,  on  dress- 
parade.  A  long  cavalcade  of  pack-animals,  donkeys, 
trousered  and  turbaned  Arabs,  had  already  departed  and 
were  winding  over  the  hills  of  Judea,  beyond  Bethany,  to- 
ward the  Valley  of  the  Jordan.  This  cavalcade  numbered 
more  than  thirty  men  and  animals.  They  transported  the 
tents,  camp  equipage,  provisions,  baggage,  forage,  etc.  We 
had  a  dragoman,  waiters,  cooks,  muleteers,  and  one  sheik — 
altogether  one  of  the  best  equipped  parties  probably  ever 
organized  in  Palestine.  Our  sheik  was  to  protect  us  against 
the  lawless  Bedouins.  This  assurance  afforded  complete 
satisfaction. 

I  noticed  an  immense  deal  of  activity  manifest  among  the 
scientists,  artists,  Oriental  scholars,  and  the  LL.D.'s  who 
composed  our  party.  They  were  all  busy  examining  their 
horses,  saddles,  etc.  In  forming  a  hasty  opinion,  I  should 
have  supposed  this  distinguished  party  an  assembly  of 
horse  doctors.  Each  one  seemed  intent  on  a  critical  exam- 
ination of  the  legs,  eyes,  feet,  and  even  the  teeth  of  his  favor- 
ite animal.  At  first  there  was  a  slight  disposition  to  swap, 
even  among  several  of  the  pilgrims;  then  a  high  premium 
was  asked  by  others.  The  most  discouraging  feature  of  the 
expedition  I  saw  was  the  profuse  supply  of  antiquated  sad- 


By  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan.    227 

dies,  without  pommels,  with  stirrups  of  different  lengths, 
doubtful-looking  girths  that  were  being  carefully  inspected 
and  adjusted  to  the  demands  of  each  tourist.     For  Pales- 
tine, our  horses  were  a  passable  set  and  our  dragoman  a 
Christian  gentleman.  Mohammed  goes  along  with  our  lunch, 
overcoats,  umbrellas,  and  such  articles  as  we  are  liable  to 
need  during  the  day,  on  his  favorite  Rosinante.     The  com- 
mand is  given.     We  file  away  from  Fiel's  Hotel  by  ones 
and  twos,  behind  each  other,  presenting  quite  a  formidable 
array.     We  are  armed  to  the  teeth  with  umbrellas,  walk- 
ing-canes, spurs,  goggles,  and  I  suppose  fire-arms — but  these 
were  not  visible.     The  first  performance  of  my  Arab  pony 
was  to  kick  clear  out  of  the  saddle,  as  if  the  girth  had 
broken,  planting  his  hind  feet  solidly  in  the  bosom  of  his 
immediate  neighbor.     I  then  discovered  my  horse  to  be  an 
unbroken  Arab — a  Bedouin  of  the  desert — and,  for  fear  I 
might  be  deserted,  I  began  to  make  a  few  intelligent  in- 
quiries about  his  character.     Nobody  knew  any  thing  about 
him ;  he  was  just  down  from  Beyroot.     The  moment  a  horse 
approached  in  too  close  proximity  he  began  to  show  his 
heels.     They  seemed  to  have  been  composed  of  India-rub- 
ber, or  himself  made  out  of  that  material.     He  had  two 
motions — a  rear  and  front  motion — that  kept  him  bouncing 
like  a  ball.     We  had  started  from  near  the  Jaffa  gate,  rac- 
ing down  the  north  wall  at  full  speed,  up  one  hill  and  down 
another,  as  if  we  were  running  for  the  Handicap  or  Wol- 
verhampton  Stakes.     I  passed  Jeremiah's  Grotto  with  lam- 
entations, and  the  Damascus  gate  in  a  very  previous  manner. 
As  we  turned  the  north-east  corner  of  the  city  wall  we  ap- 
proached the  precipice  above  Jehoshaphat.    Jericho  and  Je- 
rusalem !     Let  us  stop  a  moment  for  reflection.     Our  noble 
dragoman,  with  wonderful  presence  of  mind,  had  reined  up 
his  gallant  steed.    What  a  gracious  moment!    Mount  Olivet 
and  Gethsemane,  startling  pictures  of  grandeur  and  loveli- 


22S  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ness.  What  shall  we  do?  In  the  first  place,  I  shall  dis- 
mount and  adjust  my  saddle.  It  is  a  little  chaotic.  My 
horse  is  a  reckless  vagabond,  and  would  as  soon  break  his 
neck  as  not.  His  total  disregard  of  life  has  suggested  to 
me  his  name.  I  shall  call  him  Buster ;  I  am  sure  he  will 
be  "busted"  before  he  ever  reaches  the  Dead  Sea.  Besides, 
it  sounds-  so  American  it  reminds  me  of  home.  As  we  turn 
around  Olivet,  on  the  lower  road  on  our  way  to  Bethany, 
we  witness  many  ancient  customs  that  remind  us  of  the 
days  of  the  patriarchs.  Every  day  I  have  seen  the  truths 
of  the  Bible  illustrated  in  the  way  the  Arabs  cut  their 
grain,  cultivate  their  little  fields,  tread  out  their  corn 
(wheat)  on  the  threshing-floors;  in  their  measures,  weights, 
the  wine-press,  etc.  We  have  just  observed  a  shepherd  sep- 
arating a  large  flock  of  sheep  from  the  goats;  a  farmer 
pricking  his  ox  with  a  goad,  which  reminded  me  it  was  in 
vain  "to  kick  against  the  pricks."*  We  meet  veiled  women 
riding  astride  on  horseback,  and  the  poorer  ones  trudging 
along  under  heavy  burdens  on  their  heads.  They  often 
carry  their  entire  fortune,  consisting  of  coins  made  into  a 
necklace,  around  their  necks.  A  bridal  present,  usually  a 
silver  coin,  is  presented  by  the  husband  after  marriage. 
This  is  their  inheritance  they  may  retain  after  divorce  or 
death.  I  have  been  impressed  with  the  wretched  appear- 
ance the  village  children  presented  in  Palestine.  They  are 
often  in  rags,  and  few  wear  clothing.  Crowds  of  these  mis- 
erable little  wretches  followed  us  through  the  streets  or  nar- 
row lanes  of  Bethany.  They  would  hold  our  horses  while 
we  gazed  in  contemplation  on  the  ruins  of  some  ancient 
house.  Among  the  most  interesting  were  the  houses  of 
Mary,  Martha,  and  Lazarus.  How  intimately  are  these 
associated  with  the  visits  of  the  Saviour !  It  was  here  Mary 
Magdalene  washed  Jesus'  feet.  I  saw  the  house  of  Simon 
the  leper,  and  near  by,  cut  in  a  solid  rock,  the  tomb  of 

*  The  goad  is  a  rod  ten  feet  ong,  w?th  a  piece  of  iron  sharpened  on  one 
end  to  prick  the  ox,  and  a  scraper  on  the  other  end  to  <-lean  the  {.low.  The 
ox  pulls  at  the  end  of  a  pole  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  long,  and  when  he  kicks 
back  he  is  so  far  oft  it  is  useless. 


By  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan.    229 

Lazarus.  This  may  be  entered  by  descending  a  dark  and 
narrow  staircase.  Bethany  is  on  a  steep  hill-side,  under 
the  farther  brow  of  Olivet,  above  a  small  ravine,  two  miles 
from  Jerusalem.  It  is  just  a  quiet  stroll  around  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  the  way  our  Saviour  so  often  \valked.  Ex- 
cept a  few  olive,  fig,  pomegranate,  and  almond  trees,  the 
village,  with  its  crumbling  walls  and  towers,  in  its  filth, 
poverty,  and  decay,  is  hardly  worthy  a  name.  Its  glory 
has  departed,  but  its  memory  will  be  perpetuated  like  all 
spots  in  Palestine — not  for  any  associations  to-day,  but  for 
what  they  have  been,  to  the  student  of  Bible  history.  We 
will  remember  Bethany  because  Jesus  passed  here  some  of 
the  happiest  hours  of  his  life.  It  is  now  the  home  of  our 
intrepid  sheik.  His  horsemen  number  fifty  thousand,  I  am 
told.  I  presume  he  is  the  most  distinguished  person  living 
in  Bethany.  Without  this  gallant  Arab  prince,  mounted 
on  his  fiery  steed,  with  glittering  sword  and  side-pocket 
artillery,  we  should  scarcely  attempt  an  invasion  of  his 
dominions.  See  his  red  sash  and  flaming  turban!  He  has 
no  bridle  or  reins  to  guide  his  fearless  animal.  He  waves 
his  hand  and  sword  on  high,  bounding  across  the  ravine,  up' 
the  hill  and  away,  swift  as  the  winds  over  the  desert.  Not 
a  house  did  we  see,  not  a  living  being;  no  trees  or  forest, 
with  cool,  refreshing  shade;  no  fountains  to  quench  our 
parched  lips.  Mountains  of  rock  and  stone,  deep  valleys, 
gorges,  and  dry  ravines,  along  which  we  marched  in  single 
file  and  breathless  silence,  thousands  of  feet  above  and  below 
us.  It  sometimes  made  me  shudder  to  look  down  into  yawn- 
ing abysses  that  seemed  to  open  their  very  mouths.  But 
what  beauty,  what  exquisite  coloring! — whole  mountains 
carpeted  with  gorgeous,  blooming  flowers,  whose  tints  in  the 
glowing  sun  produce  a  picture  of  surpassing  loveliness. 

VV^e  are  now  twelve  miles  east  of  Jerusalem,  and  in  two 
hours  more  shall  view  the  Dead  Sea — that  is,  either  I  or 


230  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Buster;  it  would  be  a  miracle  for  both  of  us  to  enjoy  such 
a  scene.  Only  a  few  minutes  ago  there  like  to  have  been  a 
funeral.  I  never  was  calmer  in  all  my  life — perfectly  se- 
rene, riding  along  in  a  quiet  walk,  meditating  about  John 
in  the  wilderness,  with  my  head  inclined  downward.  I  was 
in  the  rear.  Buster  was  performing  beautifully-.  It  was 
simply  grand  to  admire  his  majestic  steps.  He  seemed  to 
have  been  meditating  like  myself,  wrhen  all  at  once — Vesu- 
vius and  Herculaneum! — I  believe  he  jumped  twenty-one 
feet.  My  head  flew  back  on  my  shoulders — dead,  I  thought. 
I  looked  up,  supposing  the  Bedouins  were  coming.  My  first 
impulse  was  to  "  shrink  up  in  my  clothes."  If  they  were 
approaching  from  the  front,  I  could  retreat  backward  or 
sideways,  according  to  the  circumstances  by  which  I  might 
be  surrounded ;  if  from  the  rear,  it  was  hardly  possible  to 
overtake  Buster.  It  looked  like  a  miracle  to  see  me  sit  on 
that  horse,  with  my  duster  flying  straight  behind  me.  To 
my  amazement  I  discovered  the  sheik  with  the  entire  party 
going  over  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  This  solved  the 
whole  mystery.  All  Arab  horses  are  trained  to  follow  the 
•  lead,  and  as  soon  as  he  perceived  them  leaving  the  plain  he 
disappeared  like  a  dream.  I  have  since  thought,  Suppose 
these  wild  Arabs  had  attempted  to  cut  off  my  advance. 
What  horrible  scenes  of  riot  and  bloodshed  there  might 
have  been!  Poor  Bedouins!  Buster  would  have  passed 
over  them  like  a  chariot  of  thunder  and  fire.  After  all,  I 
should  begin  to  cherish  an  increasing  admiration  for  this 
noble  Arabian  steed.  These  horses  are  all  bottom.  I  took 
an  inventory  of  Buster  before  leaving  Jerusalem.  He 
wears  a  very  peculiar  shoe.  It  is  a  solid  plate  of  steel,  or 
iron,  cut  to  fit  the  entire  foot,  with  a  hole  in  the  center.  I 
concluded  they  were  made  to  slide  down  the  mountains.  I 
have  not  been  disappointed.  Buster  can  adjust  his  legs  un- 
der him  and  slide  down  a  hill  in  two  minutes.  I  generally 


By  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan.     231 

walk  when  he  slides.     I  do  this  to  admire  his  gait.     He  is 
what  may  be  called  a  combination  horse. 

It  seems  the  Dead  Sea  we  saw  from  the  Mount  of  Olives 
has  entirely  disappeared.  It  seems  we  are  going  at  the  rate 
of  one  hundred  miles  a  day.  We  are  approaching  a  pretty 
piece  of  ground  again,  just  undulating  enough  to  create  a 
charming  spot  for  a  sham  battle.  There  they  go — that 
bloody  sheik  of  ours,  who  guides  his  horse  by  the  wave  of 
his  hand  circling  round  and  round  with  uplifted  sword, 
now  in  his  reckless  fury  charges  our  gallant  dragoman, 
who  all  this  time  has  lost  no  ground  in  dashing  bravery  or 
noble  bearing.  Clash  swords  and  parry,  and  then. at  full 
speed  again  they  bound,  swift  as  the  wind,  their  horses 
bring  the  gallant  knights  in  battle's  close  array.  It  was 
worth  a  visit  to  Palestine  to  enjoy  this  exciting  scene  and 
battle.  It  was  the  finest  equestrianship,  dash,  and  icckless 
riding  I  ever  witnessed.  Our  dragoman,  though  an  Amer- 
ican by  birth,  is  a  pure  Arab  in  nomadic  instincts  and 
accomplished  feats  and  horsemanship.  I  thought  I  should 
be  compelled  to  call  in  help  to  hold  Buster.  He  came  near 
holeiiifj  me  in  a  deep  ravine.  At  another  time  he  was  so  en- 
thused with  the  battle  he  like  to  have  borne  me  into  the 
thickest  of  the  fight.  I  lived  in  constant  dread  of  Buster's 
life.  It  seemed  to  hang  on  a  thread,  like  the  sword  of  Dam- 
ocles. From  the  top  of  the  hill  we  enjoyed  the  first  grand 
view  of  the  Dead  Sea.  Every  pilgrim  who  had  bounded 
over  the  plains  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  exclaimed,  "  How 
glorious,  gorgeous,  beautiful,  sublime,  and  grand!  What  a 
thrilling  scene !  It  is  so  much  like  the  Dead  Sea."  Every- 
body goes  into  ecstasy,  and  Buster  into  the  Dead  Sea,  or 
very  near  it.  There  is  now  no  time  for  argument  whether 
this  is  the  traditional  spot  or  not.  I  have  no  time  for  re- 
flection even.  I  am  first  in  and  soonest  out.  In  fact,  I  was 
out  before  anybody  got  in.  "It  is  sixteen  times  saltier  than 


232  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  ocean !  I  exclaimed.  My  mouth,  eyes,  and  ears  were 
gorged,  and  my  "body  was  evaporating  into  a  pillar  of 
salt.  I  stood  for  a  moment  gazing  on  the  reckless  waves 
as  they  broke  at  my  feet.  I  said  these  guide-books  are  un- 
mitigated frauds.  When  I  attempted  to  walk  on  the  water 
my  heels  flew  from  under  me,  or  when  I  wranted  to  sit  they 
behaved  in  same  indecorous  manner.  You  cannot  sink, 
but  it  is  difficult  to  swim.  One  of  our  pilgrims  floated 
about  like  a  small  ivory  island.  He  was  about  the  size  of 
Falstaff.  The  water  is  as  clear  as  crystal  and  blue  as  the 
heavens;  but  a  deathless  silence  broods  over  the  scene. 
All  around  its  borders  the  salt  vapors  have  blighted  every 
living  thing.  I  found  a  few  jungles  of  reeds,  stunted 
palms,  and  acacias.  There  was  a  thin  coating  of  salt  un- 
der my  feet,  but  the  air  about  it  is  like  a  blast-furnace. 
Quantities  of  asphaltum  lie  about  its  shores  and  emit 
something  of  an  unpleasant  odor.  It  is  a  sea  of  death,  In 
which  nothing  lives,  but  which  birds  do  fly  over  without  a 
particle  of  injury.  Lofty  mountains  rise  on  either  side 
above  it,  while  it  sinks  one  thousand  three  hundred  feet  be- 
low the  level  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  It  lies  four  thou- 
sand feet  below  Jerusalem.  It  is  six  times  saltier  than  the 
ocean.  It  is  forty-six  miles  long,  one  thousand  feet  deep, 
and  nine  miles  wide.  It  is  the  lowest  depression  on  earth. 
Six  million  tons  of  water  are  poured  in  daily,  yet  the  level 
of  the  Dead  Sea  is  continually  diminishing.  It  has  no  out- 
let. It  resembles  a  great  pool  left  by  the  ocean.  It  re- 
ceives the  river  Jordan  near  where  we  bathed.  The  val- 
ley lies  to  the  north  of  us ;  the  sea  is  at  the  end  of  it.  On 
its  southern  border  great  heaps  of  salt  resembling  Lot's 
wife  are  still  seen.  Those  wicked  cities  of  Sodom  and  Go- 
morrah stood  there  once.  Not  a  righteous  man  could  be 
found  in  them.  When  I  went  to  mount,  I  found  a  wild 
Arab  had  slipped  in  from  the  mountains,  unhitched  Buster, 


By  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan.     233 

and  was  holding  him  for  me.  He  was  a  genuine  Bedouin — 
a  reckless  marauder,  perfectly  indifferent  to  human  life.  I 
persuaded  him  away  with  a  little  backshish.  I  gathered 
up  a  lot  of  pebbles  and  left  for  the  Ford  of  the  Jordan.  It 
is  five  miles  across  a  level  plain.  I  saw  the  Tomb  of  Moses 
on  our  left,  where  we  had  lunched  at  dinner.  It  looks  like 
a  venerable  fortress,  with  its  high  walls  around  it.  They 
are  evidently  afraid  somebody  will  steal  him  out  of  there. 
"  How  came  Moses  buried  here?"  you  will  ask.  " The  Bible 
says  he  is  buried  beyond  Moab.  'No  man  knoweth  of  his 
sepulcher  unto  this  day.'"  "O  yes,"  replies  the  Arab  with 
the  big  bunch  of  keys ;  "  Bible  mistaken.  You  see,  Moses 
come  to  top  of  that  mountain  over  there."  "  Yes."  "  Lord 
says,  You  stop.  Moses  stop.  Lord  thought  he  turn  back. 
Lord  mistaken ;  Moses  slipped  down  side  of  Moab,  crossed 
the  Jordan,  and  while  over  eat  too  much  milk  and  honey. 
It  killed  him.  He  is  buried  right  here."  We  noticed  the 
stone  from  which  those  beautiful  works  of  art  are  carved 
in  Bethlehem  and  Jerusalem. 

On  our  right,  as  we  galloped  away,  I  saw  the  course  of 
the  Jordan  as  it  winds  between  green  banks  fringed  with 
willow-trees  under  the  shadow  of  the  Moab  range.  On  my 
left  rose  curious-shaped  hills  that  resemble  buttresses  and 
feudal  castles  in  mediaeval  times.  Far  as  the  eye  can  reach 
to  the  north  stretches  away  the  beautiful  Valley  of  the  Jor- 
dan. It  is  wild  in  picturesque  nature.  Flowers,  butter- 
flies, the  cooing  turtle-dove,  and  plaintive  notes  of  the  night- 
ingale, and  cranes  of  faultless  plumage,  six  feet  high,  are 
seen  and  heard  along  the  Jordan.  There  are  ravens  and 
other  birds  too.  I  saw  lizards  of  gigantic  size,  snakes  and 
frogs  in  proportion.  We  stop  a  moment  at  the  menlora- 
ble  ford  of  the  river,  where  the  twelve  stones  were  «et  up; 
where  Christ  was  baptized;  where  Elijah  parted  the  waters, 
and  where  Elisha,  on  whom  the  mantle  of  Elijah  had  fallen, 


234  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

smote  the  waters  and  divided  them  again.  Mr.  Floyd  read 
passages  from  the  Bible  descriptive  of  and  appropriate  to  the 
occasion.  But  our  cherished  hope  had  failed.  We  wanted 
to  bathe  in  these  holy  waters — not  to  wash  the  salt-brine  off; 
I  had  experienced  no  unpleasant  annoyance  from  the  Dead 
Sea — only  a  slightly  pricking  sensation,  that  gave  me  more 
pleasure  than  pain.  (Another  exploded  humbug  of  the 
guide-books.)  The  Jordan,  where  Joshua  led  the  Israelites 
across,  is  deep  and  very  swift.  It  is  scarcely  one  hundred 
feet  wide,  or  twice  as  broad  as  many  streets  in  America. 
But  it  is  a  most  remarkable  stream — the  most  sacred  and 
historic  in  the  world.  It  rises  out  of  snowy  Hermon  in  the 
north,  flows  through  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  descending  nearly 
three  thousand  feet  in  two  hundred  miles,  emptying  into 
the  Dead  Sea.  It  is  the  only  river  east  of  the  Nile — the 
only  one  known  or  ever  seen  by  millions  of  people.  It  over- 
flows its  banks  at  times,  but  is  fordable  in  August.  I  should 
suppose  the  Jordan  Valley  eight  to  ten  miles  wide.  There 
are  but  few  gardens — around  convents — cultivated  now. 
In  Josephus's  time  it  teemed  with  fruitfulness.  From  the 
Lake  of  Tiberias  down,  the  valley  is  below  the  ocean.  Some 
years  eight  thousand  Greek  pilgrims  (Russian),  the  follow- 
ing Tuesday  morning  at  day-break  after  Easter  in  Jerusa- 
lem, plunge  into  the  Jordan  shouting,  and  return  in  its 
praises.  They  bathe  in  long  white  gowns,  with  black  cross- 
es, which  are  preserved  for  their  winding-sheets. 

It  is  about  one  hour  and  a  quarter  from  the  Jordan  across 
the  valley  to  Gilgal,  near  which  we  can  see  our  white  tents 
gleaming  in  the  setting  sun.  We  have  passed  only  one  con- 
vent to-day.  We  can  see  two  others,  situated  a  long  way  off. 
The  whole  valley  is  as  level  as  a  table,  and  if  irrigated  by 
winding  the  Jordan  around,  would  blossom  like  a  rose. 
We  travel  along  the  ancient  way  Joshua  led  the  Israelites 
over  three  thousand  years  ago. 


By  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan.     235 


236  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

When  we  left  Jerusalem  this  morning  we  wondered  what 
use  we  had  for  that  long  caravan  of  pack  mules  and  horses 
that  wound  away  in  another  direction  over  the  hills.  Here 
we  are.  What  joy,  what  exultation!  Nine  beautiful  tents, 
nine  exhausted  tourists.  Rest,  rest!  What  bewilderment! 
Carpets  spread  upon  the  ground.  Tiny  iron  bedsteads,  with 
soft  mattresses,  snowy  sheets,  blankets,  and  pillows,  are  visi- 
ble in  every  tent.  Overhead  are  crimson,  blue,  and  gold, 
and  all  manner  of  decoration.  On  each  side-table  there 
was  a  pitcher  and  basin,  with  soap  and  clean  towels.  Even 
little  pockets  for  your  book,  pipe,  tobacco,  and  pins  had 
been  provided.  The  American  flag  floated  above  the  largest 
tent.  Presently  I  heard  a  little  bell  that  brought  us  all  to 
our  feet.  We  gathered  about  the  dining-table  in  the  saloon 
tent,  each  guest  being  furnished  with  a  comfortable  seat. 
Here  were  knives,  forks,  china  plates,  tiny  cups  and  saucers, 
castors,  pitchers,  soup-plates,  napkins,  on  a  snowy  cloth. 
More  bewilderment!  Then  stately  Arabs,  with  baggy  trou- 
sers and  turbaued  heads,  flled  in  with  delicious  soup,  roast 
mutton,  roast  chicken,  coffee,  tea,  potatoes,  figs,  dates,  or- 
anges, luscious  grapes,  bread  and  butter,  that  brought  down 
the  house  with  tremendous  applause.  The  learned  scien- 
tists looked  at  each  other  as  if  they  wanted  to  say  something. 
Buskin,  one  of  our  distinguished  nine,  engaged  the  sheik, 
after  dinner,  in  wrestling,  or  athletic  feats,  that  converted 
our  camps  into  a  kind  of  Roman  Colosseum.  But  the 
sheik  came  near  flooring  him  on  the  first  round.  He  evi- 
dently belonged  to  the  gentry  of  England,  but  not  to  the 
true  nobility.  He  reminded  me  of  a  story  I  had  read.  An 
Englishman  and  American  once  met.  "Do  you  have  in 
America  a  privileged  class  known  in  England  as  the  gen- 
try?" inquired  a  London  cockney  of  a  genuine  Yankee. 
"O  yes,"  replied  the  Bostonian;  "we  have  plenty  of  gentle- 
men in  the  States."  "  Wa'al,  sir,  you  do  not  comprehend 


By  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan.     237 

me;  I  mean  a  man  of  noble  birth,  who  indulges  his  ease, 
with  nothing  particularly  to  do."  "O  yes,"  replied  the 
American;  "we  call  those  fellows  tramps  in  our  country." 
Our  dragoman,  who,  by  his  care  and  attention,  had  quite 
won  the  hearts  of  all,  bid  us  good-night,  assuring  us  he 
should  call  at  a  certain  hour  sharp  in  the  morning  for 
breakfast.  It  was  marvelous  to  see  our  Arabs  fold  our 
tents  and  disappear  as  mysteriously  as  they  had  come.  Our 
party  divided  now — one  part,  led  by  a  sheik  and  Joseph,  to- 
ward Gilead  across  the  Jordan,  Bashan,  and  Zaccheus ;  while 
the  party  under  Mr.  Floyd  returned  by  Jericho  and  the 
brook  Cherith  to  Jerusalem.  I  can  never  forget  Joseph,  a 
Christian  Arab  who  spoke  English  and  administered  so 
considerately  to  our  wants. 

Gilgal  is  an  unsightly  ruin  now,  with  a  Greek  convent 
and  an  old  grape-vine  to  mark  its  site.  Here  Joshua  camped 
and  sent  his  spies  into  Jericho  before  he  invested  its  walls 
and  blew  it  down  with  his  trumpets,  some  three  thousand 
years  ago.  The  two  cities  were  only  a  few  miles  apart. 

The  Fountain  of  Elisha  gushes  up  at  the  foot  of  a  hill 
below  the  site  of  old  Jericho.  I  drank  of  its  sweet  waters, 
made  so  by  the  prophet  in  the  second  miracle  he  performed. 
The  water  is  as  clear  as  crystal.  It  is  sweet  yet. 

I  have  never  seen  a  better  location  for  a  town  than  old 
Jericho.  But  the  curse  pronounced  against  rebuilding  it 
has  never  been  removed.  King  Herod  tried  and  failed. 
He  was  buried  here.  From  remains  of  old  Roman  aqueducts 
it  is  probable  Elisha's  Fountain  watered  this  beautiful  val- 
ley once.  Up  on  the  elevated  plain  I  could  discover  but 
few  remains.  They  show  the  sites  of  Herod's  Palace  and 
the  house  of  Zaccheus,  but  the  old  sycamore-trees  and  palms 
are  gone.  The  grand  garden  of  palms  Mark  Antony  pre- 
sented to  Cleopatra,  with  many  of  the  famous  balsams,  have 
long  since  disappeared.  I  have  no  doubt,  for  a  little  back- 


238  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

shish,  I  could  have  seen  the  tree  that  Zaccheus  climbed  to 
watch  the  Saviour  as  he  passed  by.  Back  of  Jericho  I  saw 
a  mountain  honey-combed  with  hermit  cells,  on  the  summit 
of  which  stands  a  monastery.  It  is  a  good  place  for  bats 
and  owls ;  but  I  have  little  faith  in  it  as  the  Mount  of 
Temptation,  called  "  Quarantana."  Gathering  up  a  few 
specimens  of  ruins  from  old  Jericho,  and  several  pebbles 
out  of  the  Fountain,  we  were  prepared  to  pursue  our  jour- 
ney. I  culled  many  pretty  anemones-  and  other  flowers  as 
I  rode  up  the  valley  on  my  pony.  As  we  began  to  ascend 
the  old  road  that  leads  up  to  Jerusalem,  I  saw  many  ruined 
aqueducts  and  basins,  used  in  the  Roman  occupation,  still 
in  a  fair  state  of  preservation.  As  we  rose  higher  and 
higher,  the  valley,  stretching  away  to  the  Jordan  on  the 
other  side  below  Moab,  developed  into  one  of  the  grandest 
pictures  I  ever  beheld.  This  road  had  evidently  been  used 
for  wagons  and  chariots  once ;  but,  like  all  Palestine,  it  is  a 
magnificent  ruin  now.  We  met  many  women  astride  on 
horseback  and  men  on  camels,  returning  from  Jerusalem, 
going  beyond  the  Jordan.  The  road,  or  path,  was  so  rocky 
we  could  scarcely  travel  with  horses. 

We  passed  the  brook  Cherith,  where  Elijah  was  hid  and 
fed  by  the  ravens.  We  lunched  at  Hadrur  Khan,  a  famous 
old  place  with  a  long  tradition.  It  is  on  top  of  a  stone 
mountain.  It  is  the  traditional  inn,  I  believe,  of  the  Good 
Samaritan,  where  the  poor  man  who  fell  among  thieves 
was  taken  in.  Along  this  road  Christ  passed  after  he  had 
healed  the  blind  man,  Bartimeus,  outside  the  gates  of  Jeri- 
cho, I  believe  every  word  of  the  parable  of  the  Good 
Samaritan.  There  are  many  dark  and  dangerous  places  on 
the  way-side,  where  travelers  might  be  waylaid  yet.  Along 
this  road  many  of  the  apostles  have  gone,  and  David  once 
fled  from  his  enraged  son  after  he  had  wept  all  the  way  up 
Olivet.  This  has  always  been  the  road  to  Jericho  and  the 


Bethlehem— Pools  of  Solomon  and  Mar  Saba.      239 

Jordan.  Koads  do  not  change  in  Palestine  like  they  do  in 
other  countries.  We  understand  now  what  is  meant  by  "A 
certain  man  went  down  to  Jericho  from  Jerusalem."  We 
rise  nearly  four  thousand  feet  in  eighteen  to  twenty  miles. 
We  now  come  to  a  few  cultivated  fields  as  we  approach 
Bethany ;  but,  excepting  the  Jordan  Valley,  the  whole  coun- 
try we  have  traveled  over  the  past  two  days  bears  the  im- 
press of  desolation  and  ruin.  If  there  was  any  soil  on  these 
barren  hills  of  rock,  it  has  long  since  disappeared.*  There 
are  still  thousands  of  black  goats  driven  from  place  to  place 
by  these  wandering  Arabs,  who  camp  and  live  with  their 
flocks  as  they  have  always  done.  I  can  well  understand 
about  Solomon  having  cattle  upon  a  thousand  hills.  I 
should  think  I  had  seen  more  than  that  number  of  every 
size  and  shape;  but  no  cattle  now7.  Coming  round  the  brow 
of  OH  vet,  we  saw  Jerusalem.  It  was  glorious.  Here  Christ 
once  wept  over  the  doomed  city.  Our  journey  is  ended. 
We  have  spilled  no  blood.  There  is  absolutely  no  necessity 
for  an  Arab  guard ;  but  they  create  the  demand  for  the  pur- 
pose of  extorting  backshish  out  of  the  foreign  travel.  Be- 
yond the  Jordan  each  sheik  demands  a  tribute  for  passing 
through  his  dominion.  It  is  a  shame  on  Christianity  that 
we  must  go  armed  in  this  Bible-land. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

BETHLEHEM — POOLS  OF  SOLOMON  AND  MAR  SABA. 

I  FOUND  Selim,  my  faithful  guide,  awaiting  my  arrival 
from  the  Jordan.  Charley  was  overjoyed  at  the  Damas- 
cus. I  was  the  only  guest  during  my  stay.  I  received 
marks  of  distinguished  consideration,  and  when  I  went  to 
leave  Charley  wanted  my  certificate,  which  it  is  customary  to 
write  on  the  register.  I  enjoyed  a  fine  view  of  Olivet  and 
the  city  every  morning  from  the  flat  roof  of  the  Damascus 

*  The  remains  of  terraces  show  that  the  mountains  of  Palestine  were  once 
cultivated  in  vines. 


240  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Early  on  the  23d  of  March,  Selim,  with  two  donkeys 
and  a  footman  (Arab  boy),  appeared  at  the  foot  of  my  stone 
steps  for  a  hard  day's  journey.  1  mounted  the  little  brute, 
whose  name  had  become  historic  in  connection  with  Jesus' 
entrance  into  Jerusalem,  and  rode,  out  the  Jaffa  gate.  We 
passed  between  the  lower  and  upper  pools  of  Gihon,  with 
the  Hill  of  Evil  Counsel  in  full  view,  across  the  plain  of 
Rephaim  to  the  ridge  on  which  stands  the  convent  of  "  Mar 
Elias."  The  print  of  his  body  is  still  shown  on  a  rock. 
Here  he  was  fed  by  the  angels,  etc.  Going  south,  we  be- 
hold now  the  last  grand  view  of  Jerusalem.  To  rny  right 
were  pretty  gardens,  vineyards,  and  fields,  highly  cultivated 
by  the  Germans.  I  saw  several  fine  stone  houses  of  modern 
architecture.  An  old  cistern  on  this  road  marks  the  tradi- 
tional spot  of  the  star  that  led  the  wise  men,  sent  by  Herod 
the  second  time  to  find  where  the  young  child  was  (Matt. 
ii.  1-9).  We  saw  where  Elijah  slept,  the  Greeks  say,  on 
the  night  he  fled  from  Jezreel  (1  Kings  xix.).  One  mile 
this  side  of  Bethlehem,  on  the  road-side,  was  the  tomb  of 
Rachel  (Gen.  xxxv.  16-20).  West  is  the  village  of  Beit 
Jala,  the  site  of  ancient  Zelzah  (1  Sam.  x.  2). 

Bethlehem  sits  on  a  hill  to  my  left,  extremely  pictur- 
esque in  appearance.  It  has  a  population  of  six  thousand, 
mostly  Christians.  It  is  the  holiest  of  all  the  sacred  places 
on  earth.  It  is  the  birthplace  of  our  Saviour.  Could  these 
hills  and  plains  around  call  up  the  memories  of  thirty  cent- 
uries, what  a  startling  revelation  would  be  made!  You 
would  hear  the  sweetest  songs  attuned  to  the  harp  of  David  ; 
you  would  see  Samuel  coming  to  anoint  him  king  (1  Sam. 
xvi.  11-13)  while  he  was  yet  a  boy;  you  would  behold 
afterward  his  mighty  struggles  with  the  Philistines;  you 
would  see  Ruth  gleaning  after  the  reapers  (Ruth  ii.) ;  the 
shepherds  watching  their  flocks  when  the  angel  appeared  to 
them  (Luke  ii.  8-11);  the  weeping  of  Rachel  over  the  loss 


Bethlehem — Pools  of  Solomon  and  Mar  Saba.       241 

of  her  children;  her  death  and  burial;  the  murder  of  the 
innocents,  by  order  of  Herod ;  the  birth  of  Jesus ;  the  flight 
of  Joseph  and  Mary  into  Egypt.  We  proceed  to  Solomon's 
Pools,  one  hour  beyond  Bethlehem.  From  there  we-  shall 
trace  the  ancient  aqueduct  around  the  hills  to  Bethlehem. 
A  few  black  goats  and  olive-trees  on  each  side  of  the  rocky, 
rugged  road  are  all  we  see.  I  passed  pack-mules  laden  with 
immense  stone  jars  from  Hebron,  whose  tinkling  bells  broke 
the  deep  solitude  of  these  beautiful  Judean  hills.  An  old 
fort,  used  by  soldiers  and  Arabs  as  a  khan,  marks  the  sight 
of  the  pools.  They  are  close  by  the  road-side,  about  mid- 
way between  Jerusalem  and  Hebron.  Along  this  road 
David  once  watched  his  father's  flocks,  and  sent  these  stones 
whizzing  away  in  his  boyish  glee.  These  pools  are  three  in 
number,  built  with  solid  blocks  of  stone,  arranged  one  above 
the  other,  at  the  top  of  a  mountain-gorge.  Every  stone 
was  laid  in  cement.  The  pools  are  fed  from  a  spring  above, 
once  closed  by  Solomon's  own  signet.  They  are  massive 
works  of  masonry.  The  lowest  and  finest  pool  is  five  hun- 
dred and  eighty-two  feet  long,  two  hundred  and  seven 
broad,  and  fifty  feet  deep,  partly  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock. 
There  are  stone  steps  leading  down  from  the  top.  These 
pools  are  probably  mentioned  in  Ecclesiastes  by  Solomon. 
Others  contend  they  were  constructed  at  a  later  date.  The 
object  ^evidently  was  to  afford  Bethlehem  and  Jerusalem  a 
supply  of  good  water,  as  the  old  conduits,  traced  over  the 
hills  on  the  siphon  principle  to  both  these  cities,  clearly 
demonstrates.  This  aqueduct,  or  conduit,  was  bored  through 
solid  stones,  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  stones,  fitted 
into  each  other  like  water-pipes,  are  joined  at  the  present 
day.  The  whole  of  this  conduit,  then,  was  laid  down  sol- 
idly in  rubble-work  and  strongly  cemented,  which  remains 
till  this  day.  There  is  another  aqueduct,  built  by  Herod 
about  the  birth  of  Christ,  I  traced  around  the  hills  to  Beth- 
16 


242  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

lehem,  running  above  the  pretty  little  village  of  Artas  from 
the  lower  pool,  which  conveys  water  at  present  in  great 
abundance.  Between  Bethlehem  and  Jerusalem  it  is  in 
a  state  of  dilapidation  and  ruin.  You  can  see  remains  of  it 
near  Solomon's  Temple. 

It  is  three  or  four  hours  from  here  to  Hebron.  I  wish  I 
could  look  on  the  graves  of  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob, 
and  Sarah,  Abraham's  wife.  Rebekah  is  also  buried  here 
with  Isaac.  It  is  the  oldest  burial-ground  in  Christendom 
(Gen.  xxiii.  19).  It  is  a  double  cave  in  a  solid  rock,  bought 
by  Abraham  from  his  heathen  friend,  Ephron  the  Hittite — 
<k  the  cave  and  field  of  Machpelah."  It  is  the  only  property 
Abraham  ever  owned — this  possession  of  a  family  burial- 
ground.  No  doubt  of  this.  The  Prince  of  Wales,  Dr.  Rosen, 
and  Dean  Stanley  are  the  only  persons  ever  permitted  to  look 
on  these  sacred  shrines.  They  did  not  see  the  wives.  The 
forty  guardians  groaned  when  they  entered,  and  then  prayed 
that  God  would  forgive  them  for  such  intrusion.  They  did 
not  see  Isaac's  shrine  either — only  those  of  Abraham  and 
Jacob.  A  great  mosque,  similar  to  the  Mosque  of  Omar 
in  Jerusalem,  is  built  over  these  venerated  graves.  All 
around  it  are  the  dwellings  of  the  dervishes  and  the  forty 
hereditary  guardians.  The  church,  or  mosque,  is  very  old, 
and  they  say  the  high  walls  surrounding  it  date  from  the  time 
of  David.  It  enjoys  a  large  income  from  valuable  lands  in 
Philistia  and  in  the  Plain  of  Sharon.  The  entire  in  closure 
is  strong  as  a  fortress,  secured  by  heavy  doors,  locks,  and 
keys.  I  believe  Abraham's  embalmed  body  will  yet  be  re- 
pealed. Joseph  is  said  to 'have  been  removed  thither  from 
Shechem,  near  Jacob's  well;  all  except  poor  Rachel,  who 
sleeps  under  a  little  white  mosque  near  Bethlehem. 

Returning  by  the  aqueduct,  we  soon  climbed  up  a  steep 
hill  in  the  rear  of  Bethlehem  through  terraced  gardens  and 
orchards  of  olive-trees,  below  which  the  country  spread  out 


Bethlehem — Pools  of  Solomon  and  Mar  Saba.       243 

in  green  fields.  The  view  from  the  summit,  or  public  square, 
was  grand  in  every  direction.  We  could  almost  see  Jeru- 
salem (but  for  Mar  Elias  Hill),  six  miles  distant.  On  one 
side  of  this  open  court,  or  square,  rises  the  old  basilica  that 
covers  the  site  of  the  stable  in  which  the  Saviour  was  born. 
This  appears  to  have  been  a  grotto  in  the  side  of  a  hill. 
You  can  see  similar  caves  all  over  the  country  now.  St. 
Jerome  believed  this  to  be  the  spot,  and  in  a  room  near  the 
grotto  he  lived  and  died.  This  was  in  the  fourth  century. 
The  oldest  church  in  Christendom  was  built  here  by  that 
devoted  believer  and  mother  of  the  Roman  Emperor,  St. 
Helena,  in  the  year  A.D.  327.  Other  churches  have  been 
added  to  it  since  by  the  Greeks,  Latins,  and  Armenians, 
who  worship  in  adjoining  convents.  I  looked  up  at  the  an- 
cient ceiling,  composed  of  cedar  brought  from  Lebanon. 
The  gold  and  mosaics  that  once  adorned  it  are  all  gone. 
When  Baldwin  Avas  here  crowned  King  of  Jerusalem,  in 
the  eleventh  century,  it  biased  in  all  its  glory.  We  de- 
scended into  the  "Holy  Crypt,"  a  cave  cut  in  the  solid 
rock  twenty  feet  below,  lighted  with  ever-burning  lamps. 
This  was  the  manger,  where  you  look  with  reverence  on  a 
marble  slab  with  a  silver  star,  encircled  by  this  inscription : 
"  Hie  de  Virgine  Maria  Jesus  Christus  natus  est " — Here 
Jesus  Christ  of  the  Virgin  Mary  was  born.  This  fact 
seems  ^to  have  been  known  several  hundred  years  before 
this  church  wras  even  built.  Joseph  and  Mary,  it  appears, 
unable  to  find  room  at  the  tavern,  sought  temporary  refuge 
in  this  cave.  There  are  plenty  of  caves  in  Palestine  that 
afford  protection  against  the  weather,  even  to  cattle  and 
horses.  The  original  boards  of  the  manger  are  shown  in 
the  Church  Santa  Maria  Maggiore  in  Rome.  In  a  ro*om 
close  by  is  where  St.  Jerome,  a  Latin  monk  of  great  learn- 
ing, spent  thirty  years  of  his  life  in  a  few  feet  of  the  birth- 
place of  Jesus,  until  his  death,  A.D.  419,  in  literary  pur- 


244  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

suits  and  devotion.  The  Latin  Vulgate,  the  standard  Bible 
of  the  Roman  Church,  was  founded  upon  Jerome's  version. 
The  Protestant  translators  owe  much  to  the  labors  of  this 
pious  scholar/whom  they  seem  often  to  have  consulted  instead 
of  the  original  Hebrew  and  Greek.  A  column  indicates  the 
spot  in  the  Church  of  the  Innocents  where  twenty  thousand 
children  lie  buried  (exaggerated  number  probably),  slain 
through  the  wrath  of  Herod  when  he  was  hunting  for  the 
infant  Jesus.  There  is  the  Grotto  of  the  Shepherds  and 
the  Milk  Grotto,  some  distance  off  from  the  Church  of  the 
Nativity.  They  are  all  caves.  I  descended  into  the  Milk 
Grotto  half  a  mile  distant,  where  the  Virgin  is  said  to  have 
hid  herself  before  her  flight  into  Egypt.  It  appears  that 
while  she  was  nursing  the  infant  Jesus  a  drop  of  her  milk 
fell  upon  the  floor,  when  instantly  this  cavern  turned  from 
a  dark  color  into  snowy  whiteness.  It  is  believed  a  barren 
woman  has  only  to  touch  her  lips  to  a  fragment  of  the  stone 
and  her  failing  immediately  departs.  What  souvenirs!  I 
should  have  carried  off  a  side  of  the  cavern  if  an  oppor- 
tunity had  provoked  me.  I  purchased  of  Bethlehem's 
prince  merchant,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  public  .square, 
a  few  exquisite  carvings  in  mother  of  pearl,  ivory,  bone, 
etc.  I  was  seated  and  served  with  a  cup  of  delicious  cof- 
fee. He  informed  me  he  had  made  an  exhibit  at  our  Phil- 
adelphia Centennial  in  1876.  His  son  is  now  absent  at  the 
Calcutta  Exhibition  in  India.  He  promises  me  also  to  ex- 
hibit at  New  Orleans  at  the  approaching  World's  Fair. 
He  told  me  he  liked  Philadelphia  very  much ;  "  but  boys 
throw  stones  at  me.  Yankee  come  to  Hebron  and  Arab  boy 
throw  stones  at  him."  I  do  n't  know  which  is  the  more 
civilized.  After  all  there  is  not  much  difference  in  boys. 

As  I  turned  down  the  narrow  street  leaving  Bethlehem  I 
passed  many  shops  in  which  I  saw  the  workmen  with  their 
lays,  grindstones,  chisels,  etc.,  deftly  turning  out  the  works 


Bethlehem — Pools  of  Solomon  and  Mar  Saba.       245 

of  art  for  which  Bethlehem  is  so  fomou's.  The  women  who 
carried  their  pretty  babies  on  their  shoulders,  and  the  chil- 
dren who  gamboled  about  their  mothers'  feet,  appeared  the 
most  beautiful  I  had  seen  in  Palestine.  I  thought  of  this 
picture  of  a  Christian  city  contrasted  with  the  revolting 
scenes  I  had  witnessed  in  the  Mohammedan  villages  of  Si- 
loam  and  Bethany.  As  we  rode  east  toward  Mar  Saba  the 
pretty  orchards  of  olive-trees,  vines,  and  figs,  terraced  slopes 
and  well-cultivated  fields  soon  gave  place  to  the  barren  rocks 
and  desert  wilds  of  Judean  hills.  We  passed  near  by  Da- 
vid's well  and  the  fields  of  the  shepherds  on  departing  from 
the  city  of  Bethlehem.  We  saw  the  Frank  Mountains  in  the 
distance,  wound  up  and  down  and  around  square-topped  hills 
of  stone,  with  not  a  tree  visible  or  a  brook  of  living  water, 
oppressed  with  such  roasting  heat,  such  fatigue  and  desola- 
tion, as  can  scarcely  be  found  on  earth.  Sometimes  we 
wind  above  a  gorge  one  thousand  feet  along  a  narrow  path- 
way with  just  a  place  to  put  the  donkey's  feet.  My  Arab 
boy  has  trotted  behind,  and  takes  great  pleasure  in  belabor- 
ing the  little  animals  on  their  legs,  or  occasionally  steering 
them  by  their  tails.  My  donkey  understands  the  language, 
and  the  Arab  comprehends  the  donkey  as  well  as  ever  a 
"darky"  did  a  mule  in  a  cotton-field.  In  two  hours  we 
came  to  the  dry  brook  of  the  Kidron,  which  extends  down 
from  Jerusalem.  Winding  along  its  dry  bed,  covered  with 
flowers,  we  soon  approached  a  great  gorge,  or  immense 
chasm,  into  which  the  Kidron  broke  in  the  wildest  and 
most  picturesque  grandeur.  If  the  stream  had  been  flow- 
ing, its  precipitous  fall  down  the  walls  of  the  chasm  would 
have  resembled  a  small  Niagara.  The  chasm  is  very  broad 
and  deep,  its  brown  perpendicular  walls  on  either  side 're- 
sembling solid  masonry.  We  turned  down  its  lofty  brow, 
leaving  the  main  road  that  extends  on  to  the  Dead  Sea. 
Occasionally  we  looked  down  in  the  fearful  yawning  abyss 


246  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

as  we  rode  along  a  well-paved  road  that  led  a  mile  or  more 
down  to  Mar  Saba.  Soon  I  saw  the  venerable  walls  and 
towers  of  the  ancient  convent  rising  before  me,  presenting 
the  most  picturesque  building  in  all  Syria.  The  convent 
consists  of  several  chapels,  etc.,  built  into  the  right  banks 
or  sides  of  the  perpendicular  cliffs  that  overhang  the  bed 
of  the  Kidron.  It  winds  around  into  the  ledges  of  rocks 
a  short  distance  above  its  base  almost  up  to  its  very  sum- 
mit. It  is  difficult  to  distinguish  the  natural  from  the  arti- 
ficial caves,  standing  below  and  looking  up  hundreds  of  feet 
above  us.  There  are  stair-ways  and  terraced  walks  built  of 
iron  and  stone,  with  hanging  galleries  that  connect  the  va- 
rious buildings  and  caves,  so  you  can  pass  out  of  one  into 
the  other.  It  is  a  most  curious  sight  to  look  up  and  watch 
the  monks  in  their  long  black  gowns  appear  and  disappear 
along  these  hanging  stair-ways  into  their  little  cells.  I  ex- 
amined their  churches,  chapels,  bed-rooms,  kitchen,  and 
dining-rooms.  They  were  all  very  beautiful  and  faultlessly 
neat.  I  saw  a  little  hanging  garden  where  they  had  plant- 
ed a  tree  and  a  few  flowers,  in  which  a  number  of  birds 
were  singing  and  chirping  as  if  to  cheer  the  deep  solitude  of 
conventual  life.  They  would  eat  crumbs  of  bread  out  of  the 
hands  of  the  monks — pretty  black  birds,  with  a  red  spot  on 
their  wings.  This  convent  was  founded  by  Mar  Saba  in 
483.  I  went  into  his  cell,  where  he  once  prayed  and  studied. 
In  the  seventh  century  Mar  Saba  was  plundered  of  its 
wealth  by  the  Persians,  and  forty  of  its  inmates  murdered. 
In  one  end  of  the  church  I  was  shown  the  grinning  skulls 
of  the  unfortunates.  There  are  about  sixty-five  Greek 
monks  here  at  present  who  spend  their  lives  in  prayer,  fast- 
ing, and  devotion.  Like  the  people  of  Bethlehem,  they 
make  ornaments  to  sell — beads,  walking-canes,  and  other 
souvenirs.  I  bought  a  balsam  stick  from  one,  who  spoke 
to  me  in  French.  The  oldest  monk  has  been  here  thirty 


Bethlehem — Pools  of  Solomon  and  Mar  Saba.        247 

years.  They  are  never  allowed  to  leave  the  convent  after 
they  once  enter.  They  are  never  allowed  to  see  a  woman, 
nor  is  a  woman,  under  any  circumstances,  permitted  to  visit 
Mar  Saba.  Not  a  smile  nor  the  rippling  laughter  of  one 
of  these  dear  creatures  has  ever  been  enjoyed.  Not  a  kiss 
nor  a  tear  has  ever  kindled  one  emotion  of  sympathy  or  be- 
guiled a  sorrow  from  their  brows.  They  are  exceedingly  kind 
to  all  strangers,  extending  their  hospitality  free  of  charge. 
They  live  on  vegetables,  bread,  olives,  jelly,  etc. ;  they  eat  no 
meat  of  any  kind.  The  convent  is  reputed  to  be  rich  in  valu- 
able old  manuscripts,  which  I  believe  they  never  show  to  vis- 
itors. They  have  vast  reservoirs  of  rain-water,  which  they 
catch  in  the  rainy  season  (or  winter)  from  the  mountains 
above  by  little  ditches.  The  Bedouins  seem  to  respect  the  sa- 
credness  of  the  convent,  being  quite  friendly  with  the  monks. 
It  is  ten  to  twelve  miles  to  Jerusalem,  Bethlehem,  or  the 
Dead  Sea.  We  ascended  a  long  flight  of  stone  steps  through 
several  large  iron  gates  that  are  locked  at  night,  and  found 
our  donkeys  had  been  cared  for,  for  which  we  paid  the 
monk.  As  I  turned  up  the  brook  Kidron  toward  Jerusa- 
lem I  brought  a  deep  sigh,  feeling  I  should  not  like  to  live 
at  Mar  Saba. 

There  is  no  daily  paper  in  Jerusalem  to  chronicle  "per- 
sonals" at  the  hotels,  or  the  daily  arrivals  and  departures 
of  pilgrims.  There  is  not  even  such  a  character  as  a  re- 
porter to  be  found  in  the  city.  I  had  only  two  friends  to 
lament  my  departure — that  was  enough — the  hotel-keeper 
and  my  guide.  As  I  disappeared  over  the  hills  for  Jaffa  I 
took  a  last  lingering,  farewell  look  at  Jerusalem. 

We  arrived  at  Mrs.  Floyd's  about  4  o'clock  A.M.  the 
following  morning.  Our  steamer,  from  Beyroot  to  Port 
Said,  was  due  in  a  few  hours.  We  strolled  along  the  sea 
and  gathered  up  shells  for  friends  on  distant  shores.  I 
thought  how  delightful,  how  profitable  and  satisfactory, 


248  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

had  been  my  visit  to  Palestine.  The  Bible  had  become  a 
new.  book  to  me.  It  had  strengthened  my  faith  and  deep- 
ened my  convictions  of  its  immortal  truths.  The  land  and 
the  Book  had  been  studied  together.  The  one  had  lent  to 
the  other  an  imperishable  charm.  I  could  not  afford  to  miss 
Palestine. 

I  desire  to  add  my  own  testimonial  of  appreciation  to  the 
following  high  tribute  paid  Mr.  Floyd  by  my  distinguished 
countryman,  the  Rev.  Joseph  Cook : 

JAFFA,  PALESTINE,  Dec.  15,  1881. 

After  eight  years  acquaintance  with  my  American  countryman 
Eollo  Floyd,  I  regard  him  as  incomparably  the  most  accomplished, 
efficient,  and  in  every  way  trustworthy  conductor  of  travel  in  Pal- 
estine and  Syria.  I  traveled  in  the  Holy  Land  under  his  advice  in 
1873,  and  under  his  personal  guidance  with  my  wife  in  1881.  All 
my  prolonged  and  varied  experience  with  Mr.  Floyd  has  convinced 
me  of  the  entire  justice  of  the  really  unmeasured  commendation 
which,  it  is  well  known,  has  been  heaped  upon  him  by  hundreds  of 
travelers  whom  he  has  conducted  through  the  Holy  Land,  and  espe- 
cially by  the  London  firm  of  Cook's  Tourist  Agency,  of  which  he 
was  the  foremost  representative  in  Palestine  and  Syria  for  seven 
years.  This  firm  has  often  eulogized  in  the  strongest  language,  in  its 
official  pamphlets  and  periodicals,  Mr.  Floyd's  honesty,  courage, 
intelligence,  skill,  and  success  as  a  conductor  of  travel.  It  has 
pointed  with  pride  to  Mr.  Floyd's  knowledge  of  the  Holy  Land,  his 
extraordinary  familiarity  with  scriptural  allusions  to  the  sacred 
places,  his  perfect  command  of  the  Arabic  language,  and  the  univer- 
sal esteem  in  which  he  is  held  by  the  Arabs,  and  even  by  the  Bedouin 
frribes. 

Acting  now  as  an  independent  conductor  of  travel,  Mr.  Floyd  is 
.-sometimes  treated  by  powerful  tourist  agencies  as  a  dangerous  rival. 
It  remains  true,  however,  that  the  commendations  just  cited  are 
thoroughly  deserved,  and  that  Mr.  Floyd's  eleven  years  of  expe- 
rience as  a  guide  has  made  him  unsurpassable  in  his  department. 
I  take  pleasure  in  commending  him  to  the  visitors  of  the  Holy 
Land,  and  I  write  this  testimonial  without  his  solicitation. 

EEV.  JOSEPH  COOK, 

17  Beacon  Street,  Boston,  Mass.,  U.  S.  A. 


India — Voyage  to  Bombay.  249 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

INDIA — VOYAGE  TO  BOMBAY. 

AS  I  said  farewell  to  Jerusalem,  I  must  bid  adieu  tc 
Jaffa ;  but  not  without  feelings  of  deep  emotion.  It  is 
sixteen  hours  to  Port  Said,  and  sixteen  days  from  Port  Said 
through  the  Suez  Canal  and  Red  Sea  to  Bombay,  India. 
We  have  been  hoisting  cargo  for  six  hours,  loading  ship 
with  chickens,  eggs,  ducks,  geese,  oranges,  vegetables, 
broad-tailed  sheep,  pilgrims,  and  Nubians.  In  a  month 
from  now  Jaffa  will  begin  to  export  her  surplus  of  wheat  to 
foreign  markets,  as  Palestine  produces  more  of  this  grain 
than  is  consumed  in  her  fertile  valleys. 

These  broad-tail  sheep  are  a  curiosity.  Their  tails  are  a 
perfect  globule  of  fat,  eight  to  ten  inches  broad.  On  the 
opposite  coast  of  Smyrna  (Asia  Minor)  they  are  so  heavy 
they  are  loaded  on  wheels  behind  the  animal.  The  species 
are  highly  esteemed  for  the  immense  quantity  of  lard,  or 
suet,  obtained  from  their  tails.  They  are  valued  equally  as 
high  for  the  delicious  flavor  of  their  mutton,  and  bring 
from  three  to  four  dollars  apiece  in  Jerusalem.  They  are 
generally  brown  and  white.  The  geese  and  other  fowls  are 
of  similar  species  to  our  own. 

If  we  are  to  judge  the  Moslem  religion  by  the  number  of 
prayers  the  faithful  offer  up,  we  must  be  deeply  impressed 
with  their  pious  devotions.  They  begin  first  by  standing 
up,  always  facing  Mecca.  They  bow,  then  fold  their  hands ; 
raising  them  aloft,  they  fall  down  and  kiss  the  floor.  At 
their  shrines,  or  temples,  they  first  wash  their  hands ;  but  in 
the  desert  the  Koran  allows  them  to  wash  in  the  sand  in 
the  absence  of  water.  I  have  been  watching  two  Nubians, 
as  black  as  midnight,  going  through  their  devotions.  They 
appear  to  be  deeply  in  earnest,  if  not  penitent,  in  their  sup 


250  Around  the  World  in  188 J^ 

plications.  They  have  converted  the  decks  into  a  prayer- 
meeting. 

On  landing  at  Port  Said,  I  was  surprised  to  learn  that  our 
polite  consul  is  only  paid  fifty  dollars  a  year  for  his  serv- 
ices. I  suppose  the  distinction  that  attaches  to  the  office 
must  be  considerable.  He  surely  could  not  live  if  he  de- 
pended on  his  consulship.  He  has  shown  me  every  kind- 
ness. Capt.  Broadbent  informs  me  that  few  American  ships 
ever  pass  through  the  canal.  It  appears  that  our  merchant 
marine  consist  principally  of  sailing  craft,  which  avoid  the 
heavy  dues  of  the  canal  by  doubling  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  Our  ship  from  Jaffa  has  proceeded  down  the  Med- 
iterranean coast  to  Alexandria,  while  we  begin  our  voyage 
to  the  East  through  the  canal. 

The  Isthmus  of  Suez  is  a  narrow  neck  of  land  connect- 
ing Asia  with  Africa.  Across  this,  geologists  say,  the  waters 
of  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Red  Sea  once  united.  The 
waters  appear  to  have  receded  since  then,  literally  fulfill- 
ing Isaiah's  prophecy.  It  seems  from  history  that  this  is  not 
the  first  canal  run  across  this  Isthmus.  As  early  as  617  B.C. 
Pharaoh  Necho  commenced  a  canal  to  connect  the  two 
seas,  according  to  Herodotus.  But  the  Oracle  informed  the 
Egyptian  king  that  the  northern  nations  would  pour  down 
through  it  and  conquer  Egypt.  However,  the  canal  was 
finished  by  his  successor  and  used  for  centuries,  down  to  the 
times  of  Alexander  and  Mark  Antony's  queen,  Cleopatra. 
When  the  Roman  Empire  began  to  decline  in  the  East,  the 
canal  filled  with  sand.  It  was  about  one  hundred  feet  wide 
then,  as  now.  Before  the  completion  of  the  fresh  water  canal 
from  Zagazeg,  fifty  miles  distant,  to  Ismailia,  it  required 
three  thousand  camels  to  transport  drinking-water  for  the 
fifteen  thousand  fellahin  furnished  by  the  Viceroy  as  part 
of  his  contract  in  digging  the  present  canal.  The  French 
furnished  the  capital  through  De  Lesseps,  while  the  En- 


(251) 


252  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

glish  furnished  the  money  to  build  the  railroads  of  Egypt. 
Both  these  nations  must  exert  a  powerful  political  influence 
on  the  future  destinies  of  this  country. 

I  heard  an  amusing  story  told  about  the  French  furnish- 
ing the  fellahin  with  wheelbarrows  to  roll  the  sand  out  of 
the  canal.  They  took  every  wheel  off  and  carried  the  wheel- 
barrows on  their  heads. 

The  following  letter  from  Bombay,  published  in  the  Tal- 
botton,  Ga.,  New  Era,  furnishes  an  account  of  the  remainder 
of  the  voyage  to  Bombay : 

"BOMBAY,  INDIA,  April  14,  1884. 

"  I  intended  to  have  given  you  a  letter  from  Egypt,  also 
one  from  Palestine;  but  hurried  traveling  and  sight-seeing 
combined  have  disappointed  my  good  intentions. 

"Returning  to  Port  Said,  on  the  27th  of  March,  from 
Jaffa,  I  hurried  to  the  American  consulate,  at  whose  office 
I  had  left  my  surplus  baggage,  to  ascertain  if  there  was  a 
steamer  for  Bombay.  Capt.  Broadbent,  whose  courtesies 
had  already  placed  me  under  lasting  gratitude,  assured  us  I 
had  only  to  be  patient  a  short  while  to  realize  my  expecta- 
tions. In  the  afternoon  the  steam-ship  'Albany '  was  reported 
from  Liverpool.  I  hurried  aboard,  and  soon  arranged  with 
her  master,  Capt.  Gough,  a  passage  for  Bombay.  Of  this 
noble  ship  and  officers  w^e  will  remark  at  the  close  of  this 
communication — we  can  only  give  you  an  outline  of  our 
voyage,  and  our  purpose  is  to  notice  its  most  salient  features. 
Port  Said  is  a  beautiful  little  town,  situated  at  the  end  of 
the  canal  on  the  Mediterranean  side,  containing  a  mixed 
population  of  several  thousand  inhabitants.  It  boasts  of 
several  broad  avenues  and  numerous  steam-ship  offices  and 
hotels.  Every  ship  going  east,  through  the  canal,  is  regis- 
tered here,  and  generally  stops  for  supplies  and  coal.  The 
canal  from  Port  Said  to  Suez  is  cut  through  the  Egyptian 


India — Voyage  to  Bombay.  253 

desert,  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  wide,  with  twenty-six 
feet  of  water,  and  measures  eighty-five  miles  in  length.  It 
has  twelve  gares,  or  stations,  where  ships  are  stopped  by  sig- 
nals in  passing  each  other.  Much  time  is  often  consumed 
in  this  canal  passage,  as  the  length  of  time  required  is  de- 
termined by  the  number  of  steamers  or  vessels  in  the  canal. 
As  many  as  two  or  three  days  have  been  consumed  by  a 
single  vessel.  Five,  ten,  or  more  steamers  are  observed  in 
a  single  line  that  are  stopped  all  of  a  sudden  at  one  of  these 
gares,  and  tie  up  on  one  side  of  the  canal.  Then  a  long 
line  of  vessels 'bound  west  pass  us  one  after  the  other,  and 
we  move  on  again.  The  limit  of  speed  in  the  canal  is  five 
miles  an  hour,  but  through  the  lakes  full  speed.  There 
are  three  of  these  bitter  lakes  this  canal  connects,  on  one  of 
which  is  situated  Ismailia.  This  station  is  the  terminus  of 
the  Cairo  and  Suez  railroad,  and  occupies  a  central  position 
between  Port  Said  and  Suez.  The  banks  of  the  canal  are 
faced  with  stone,  and  sometimes  a  good  sod  of  grass  is  grow- 
ing on  them.  Notwithstanding  the  drifting  sands  of  the 
desert,  whose  clouds  of  fine  yellow  dust  settle  along  its 
banks,  the  continual  dredging  has  banished  all  apprehen- 
sion of  its  filling  up.  It  cost  about  one  hundred  millions 
of  dollars,  and  its  stock  to-day  is  worth  eight  times  its  orig- 
inal value.  It  has  proved  a  great  financial  success.  More 
than  nine-tenths  of  the  shipping  that  passes  through  this 
canal,  as  far  as  I  can  observe,  is  British.  To  give  you  an 
idea  of  its  immense  value  to  the  maritime  interest  of  England 
alone,  the  Suez  Canal  shortens  the  distance  between  Liver- 
pool and  Bombay,  India,  four  thousand  eight  hundred  and 
forty  miles.  We  pass  out  the  canal  and  enter  the  Gulf  of 
Suez ;  on  our  right  is  the  port  and  city  of  Suez.  We  stop 
an  hour,  probably,  on  the  very  spot  where  Moses  led  the  chil- 
dren of  Israel  out  of  Egypt  through  the  Red  Sea.  This  gulf 
is  a  part  of  the  Red  Sea.  We  get  our  mail  from  home — a 


254 


Around  the  World  in 


India —  Voyage  to  Bombay.  255 

letter  and  the  Talbotton  New  Era.  What  visions  burst  upon 
us — home  and  its  hallowed  associations !  I  have  read  my 
letter  and  paper  over  and  over  again — every  advertisement, 
even,  has  been  scrutinized  with  a  searching  eye.  I  com- 
mend the  Era  for  its  extending  circulation  as  a  most  excel- 
lent advertising  medium. 

"As  we  steam  down  this  charming  gulf  of  placid  waters, 
with  the  wilderness  of  Sinai  stretching  down  on  our  left  and 
the  coast  of  Nubia  and  Abyssinia  extending  on  our  right, 
we  contemplate  with  rapture  and  silent  admiration  the 
mountain  ranges  on  either  side.  The  Red  Sea  probably  re- 
ceived its  name  from  the  red  hues  that  radiate  011  their  lofty 
summits,  for  the  azure  of  the  waters  below  does  not  pale  be- 
low the  skies.  It  was  early  next  morning — I  rose  for  a  prom- 
enade on  the  deck — Capt.  Gough  drew  my  attention  to  Mt. 
Sinai,  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  on  earth.  The  view 
was  magnificent.  I  stood  in  awe,  gazing  on  this  majestic 
mount  until  it  had  receded  from  my  view.  I  thought  of 
Moses  and  Aaron  and  the  children  of  those  favored  tribes  of 
God,  who  had  gathered  about  its  base.  What  means  this 
immense  multitude?  Moses  ascends  to  the  summit,  receives 
the  tablets  of  stone  with  the  commandments,  while  God 
speaks  through  him  to  the  children  of  Israel  below,  amid 
the  lightning,  smoke,  and  thunder  that  descend  from  heaven 
upon  its  awful  brow. 

"  On  our  right  lies  the  battle-ground  of  the  present  Egyp- 
tian war.  There  are  Suakim,  El  Teb,  and  Khartoum,  amid 
the  burning  sands  of  the  desert.  The  heat  must  be  intense, 
j  udging  from  the  thermometer  of  the  'Albany.'  The  African 
coast  has  faded  from  view.  On  the  left  we  catch  an  occa- 
sional glimpse  of  Arabia.  We  pass  Jedda,  the  port  for 
Mecca,  where  the  followers  of  Mohammed  go  by  thousands 
every  year  to  worship ;  then  Mocha,  from  which  the  coffee 
takes  its  name.  The  Red  Sea,  from  the  ships  stranded 


256 


Around  the  World  in  1884- 


BOUND  FOR  MECCA. 

along  its  shores,  must  present  many  difficulties  to  the  mar- 
iner. Many  valuable  vessels,  with  their  cargoes,  have 
foundered  on  its  reefs  and  rock-bound  coast.  Sgme  of  these 
wrecks  sit  on  the  water,  looking  as  if  they  were  anchored. 
At  Jebel  Teir  and  Jebel  Zukur,  before  we  enter  the  straits 
of  Bab-el-Mandeb,  I  counted  a  large  number. 

"Passing  through  the  straits,  wre  enter  the  Gulf  of  Aden, 
having  traversed  more  than  one  thousand  miles  of  the  Red 
Sea.  On  our  left  is  Aden,*  the  chief  sea-port  of  Arabia,  from 
which  the  Mocha  coffee,  ostrich  feathers,  flowers,  etc.,  are 
largely  shipped.  There  is  a  very  peculiar  race  of  black 
men,  with  red  heads,  to  be  seen  at  Aden.  Capt.  Gough  in- 
forms me  of  the  fact.  In  two  days  more  we  are  sailing  on 

*Both  the  Island  of  Perim,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Red  Sea,  and  her 
forlorn  sister,  Aden,  are  garrisoned  by  English  soldiers. 


India — Voyage  to  Bombay. 


257 


NATIVES   OF   ADEN. 


the  tranquil  bosom  of  the  Indian  Ocean.  We  touched  our 
lowest  line  of  latitude  a  little  south  of  Bab-el-Mandeb,  being 
twelve  degrees  and  twenty  minutes  north  of  the  equator, 
with  the  thermometer  at  eighty-five  degrees  in  the  shade, 
the  4th  day  of  April. 

"  Traveling  on  the  'Albany'  is  a  luxury.  We  have  expe- 
rienced little  or  no  inconvenience  from  the  heat,  notwith- 
standing we  have  sailed  within  twelve  degrees  north  of  the 
equatorial  line.  Our  ship  is  a  new  iron  vessel,  large,  well 
ventilated,  and  constructed  on  the  most  approved  models. 
It  is  one.  of  four  belonging  to  David  Mclvey,  the  distin- 
guished member  from  Birkenhead  (Liverpool)  in  the  House 
of  Commons. 

"Our  voyage  has  been  delightful,  with  bright  skies  and 
balmy  breezes.  The  'Albany'  has  attained  a  high  rate  of 
17 


258  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

speed  under  the  superb  sailing  of  its  experienced  and  able 
master,  H.  A.  Gough. 

"  Capt.  Gough  is  assisted  by  a  steady  company  of  officers, 
Messrs.  Tennent,  Pennington,  and  Gibson,  first,  second,  and 
third  officers ;  Messrs.  Dinkwater,  Hamlyn,  and  Brochbank, 
engineers.  These  officers  have  been  navigating  the  high 
seas  since  their  boyhood.  They  are  very  efficient  and  expe- 
rienced, combining  skill  with  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  laws 
of  navigation.  And  they  are  fine  gentlemen,  with  it  all. 

"  The  stern  and  inexorable  sense  of  duty  that  recognizes 
no  law  higher  than  its  observance,  and  that  shrinks  from  no 
obligations  assumed,  distinguishes  Capt.  Gough  among  the 
most  worthy  of  sea-masters.  He  enjoys  the  reputation  of 
a  remarkable  record  and  career.  At  fourteen  years  of  age 
he  went,  as  a  sailor-boy,  to  sea.  He  is  now  thirty-eight 
years  old ;  has  served  in  many  official  capacities,  on  twenty- 
one  different  vessels ;  has  never  lost  a  ship  under  his  com- 
mand, nor  has  any  vessel  he  has  been  connected  with  been 
wrecked,  foundered,  or  lost  at  sea ;  has  traveled  on  these  ves- 
sels more  than  a  half  million  miles,  the  longest  voyage  being 
made  in  the  meantime  was  from  Liverpool  to  the  East  In- 
dies and  return — eighteen  thousand  miles. 

"  I  congratulate  Capt.  Gough.  He  is  a  young  man  yet, 
full  of  vigor  and  splendid  manhood.  I  am  indebted  for 
some  pleasant  hours  in  his  cabin,  examining  charts  and 
maps,  studying  the  skill  and  beauty  of  his  picture-gallery, 
his  rare  books,  with  an  ear  now  and  then  to  some  delicious 
music  from  the  organ,  or  swelling  notes  from  his  enchant- 
ing flute. 

"I  have  sat  for  hours  on  deck  contemplating  the  won- 
ders of  this  deep  and  beautiful  Indian  Ocean,  its  placid, 
dreaming  bosom,  dimpled  now  and  then  by  a  gentle  breeze 
that  dies  away  into  subdued  calm  ere  the  evening  sun's  last 
golden  rays  have  faded  on  the  west. 


India — Voyage  to  Bombay.  259 

"At  this  season  of  the  year  the  prevailing  wind  is  the 
north-east  monsoon,  which  brings  '  fine  weather  and  cloud- 
less skies.'  The  moon,  in  regal  splendor,  lights  up  these 
tropical  seas,  and  the  stars,  like  burning  sapphires,  are  mir- 
rored in  their  quivering  embrace.  Not  less  beautiful  is  the 
phosphorescent  light — when  the  night  is  dark — by  the  side 
of  the  ship  as  it  glides  along,  or  in  its  wake  when  the  revo- 
lution of  the  great  propeller  produces  the  greatest  attrition, 
'  as  bright  as  day.'  You  can  read  the  finest  print  by  the 
light  that  flashes  from  this  sea  of  diamonds,  which  produces 
a  scene  indescribable.  The  flying-fish,  which  are  flushed 
on  the  approach  of  the  ship  in  large  schools,  are  another 
source  of  amusement.  They  measure  from  five  to  twelve 
inches  long,  having  two  to  four  wings  each.  I  have  seen 
them  fly  nearly  one  quarter  of  a  mile.  Of  a  dark  night,  as 
many  as  one  hundred,  of  all  sizes,  having 'been  attracted  by 
the  lights  on  board,  have  been  picked  up  next  morning  on 
the  ship's  deck.  We  observed  an  immense  turtle,  on  the 
voyage,  and  a  mammoth  whale,  sending  up  a  spout  like  a 
water  fountain.  Capt.  Gough  and  I  estimated  the  whale  at 
nearly  sixty  feet,  and  worth  several  thousand  dollars  in  oil 
and  whalebone.  Last  Sunday  we  ran  through  a  field  of  por- 
poises, three  hundred  yards  wide,  chasing  each  «ther  like  a 
jolly  set  of  boys.  This  ocean  teems  with  every  conceivable 
form  of  life.  The  deep  currents  from  the  equatorial  re- 
gions are  wonderful  factors  in  this  general  distribution." 


260 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

BOMBAY  —  CURIOUS  PEOPLE  —  SIGHTS  AND  SCENES  — 
TOWERS  OF  SILENCE — A  HINDOO  HOSPITAL — AMERI- 
CAN STREET  RAILWAY — OFF  TO  DELHI. 

WE  stopped  at  the  Taylor  House,  a  short  drive  through 
the  Fort,  where  we  found  several  Englishmen  and 
one  American.     It  was  during  a  holiday,  the  entire  city  be- 
ing given  up  to  celebrating  festivals  of  the  gods,  marriages, 
etc.     I  found  Bombay  a  lively  city  of  more  than  eight  hun- 


RATHER  WARM. 

dred  thousand  souls,  on  the  western  coast  of  India.  It  is 
the  greatest  commercial  metropolis  in  the  empire,  from 
which  nearly  all  the  cotton  and  wheat  are  exported  to  Eu- 
rope. The  thermometer  often  rises  here  from  one  hundred 
to  one  hundred  and  ten  degrees  during  the  hot  season.  The 
exodus  to  Europe  and  the  mountains  of  Poona,  Simla,  and 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,  Jeypore. 


201 


Dargeeling  begins  the  last  of  March  among  the  Europeans,* 
who  return  in  November.  The  number  of  foreigners,  ex-» 
elusive  of  the  military,  is  only  about  eight  thousand,  while 
the  Hindoos  number  nearly  half  a  million ;  there  are  be- 
sides one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  Mohammedans,  and 
nearly  sixty  thousand  Parsees.  The  latter  class  are  the 
wealthy  merchants,  bankers,  and  manufacturers,  many  of 


GOING   HOME. 


whom  have  amassed  great  fortunes  in  Bombay.  They  some- 
what resemble  the  Jews  in  appearance,  but  are  larger  in 
stature,  and  of  a  bright  copper  complexion.  The  Parsee 
ladies  dress  in  silk  robes  and  long  scarfs,  which  they  carry 
over  their  heads  and  often  wrap  arojnd  their  comely  fig- 
ures. These  people  were  exiled  from  Persia  hundreds  of 
years  ago,  and  brought  their  curious  customs  with  them 
They  are  fire- worshipers,  and  bury  their  dead  in  "Towers  of 


262  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Silence,"  which  I  shall  describe  directly.  The  Hindoos  are 
the  powerful,  dominant  race  of  India,  Caucasian  in  origin, 
of  black  and  light  complexions,  and  rather  slender  in  form. 
They  worship  many  different  idols,  and  burn  their  dead,  or  cre- 
mate according  to  a  very  ancient  custom.  They  are  the  de- 
scendants of  the  Aryans,  the  oldest  race  in  India.  The  Mo- 
hammedans once  conquered  the  Hindoos,  and  destroyed  their 
temples  and  gods  under  the  Moguls  (who  were  the  same), 
from  the  eleventh  century  to  1857,  when  they  themselves 
were  swept  out  of  power  by  the  English  army.  They  bury 
their  dead.  These  are  the  three  prominent  native  races  of 
India.  There  is  another  class  called  Eurasians,  highly  ed- 
ucated, filling  many  important  official  positions  on  railroads, 
in  banks,  and  the  civil  and  military  services  of  the  govern- 
ment. They  are  the  results  of  the  European  admixture 
with  the  natives — a  decidedly  clever  improvement. 

"Elphinstone  Circle"  is  surrounded  by  stately  edifices, 
insurance  and  banking  houses,  with  broad  macadamized 
streets  that  rival  the  most  splendid  thoroughfares  of  New 
York  City.  The  walls  of  the  "Old  Fort"  have  long  since 
given  way  to  solid  blocks  of  buildings,  wooden  and  brick, 
where  the  European  merchants  conduct  their  business.  In 
every  office,  bank,  and  residence  the  punka  is  going.  It  is 
a  fanning-machine,  which  is  pulled  by  the  coolie  night  and 
day  to  keep  down  the  temperature.  It  very  much  re- 
sembles the  fly-frame  once  used  in  Georgia,  with  strips  of  cot- 
ton cloth,  moved  by  a  rope  at  the  end.  In  the  hotels  at 
night  you  see  the  naked  Hindoos  lying  flat  on  their  backs 
with  the  cords  between  their  big  and  second  toes  running  on 
a  pulley  overhead,  moving  the  fans  inside. 

Ice  is  made  on  machines  in  India,  and  furnished  at  one 
cent  per  pound.  In  Bombay  the  Europeans  all  dress  in 
white  linen  clothes,  white  hats  and  shoes.  The  natives 
dress  according  to  their  different  customs,  those  who  dress 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,  Jeypore.  263 

at  all,  while  the  lowest  caste  (coolies)  wear  nothing  but  a 
loin-cloth  around  their  bodies.  They  wind  a  white  cloth 
around  their  heads,  which  serves  them  as  a  turban.  The 
better  classes  of  women  dress  in  cotton,  muslin,  and  silk 
robes,  which  they  arrange  very  tastefully  and  cunningly 
about  their  persons,  drawing  the  ends  over  their  heads,  as  I 
have  observed,  producing  an  artistic  effect.  The  coolie 
classes  wear  only  a  skirt,  which  is  gathered  around  the  hips, 
exposing  the  body  above.  Many  of  their  bodies  glisten 
like  ebony,  with  long,  black,  silken  hair  falling  over  their 
shoulders  that  would  excite  the  envy  of  a  European  queen. 
Then  there  are  the  Nautch  girls  (naughty  girls),  who  dance 
very  prettily  for  strangers.  The  coolie  women  are  rather 
delicate  in  stature,  with  little  twinkling  eyes  set  in  full  fore- 
heads. They  are  not  handsome.  These  women  make  the 
mortar  and  brick  and  build  the  houses  of  India.  They 
cultivate  the  fields,  while  the  men  sit  cross-legged  in  their 
shops  sewing  and  embroidering  the  finest  garments.  The 
Parsees  are  an  exception.  They  enjoy  as  much  liberty  on 
the  streets  and  public  drives  as  the  English  ladies.  The 
highest  and  best  classes  of  the  Hindoos  never  allow  their 
wives  in  public.  They  are  confined  in  the  zenanas,  which 
I  will  describe  farther  on.  I  enjoyed  a  stroll  in  the  native 
town  last  night,  where  I  saw  the  people  going  to  bed  en 
masse.  Every  house  was  literally  emptying  its  bamboo 
mats  on  the  sidewalks,  and  even  in  th»  middle  of  the  streets, 
upon  which  the  population  were  descending.  They  all 
seemed  to  be  undressed,  as  they  had  appeared  during  the 
day.  I  could  observe  no  particular  distinction  shown  for 
sexes ;  and  as  for  children,  loaded  down  with  jewelry,  they 
were  without  number.  I  was  meditating  all  the  time  what 
a  carnival  for  musquitoes  was  this  livicg  mass  of  nudity. 

You  can  buy  clothing  and  jewelry  very  cheap  in  Bom- 
bay.    Both  the  Hindoos  and  Parsees  are  excellent  tailors. 


264  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  they  appeared  on  the  ship  with  their 
tape  strings  and  sample-books  for  fits.  I  was  much  amused 
at  a  story  I  heard  about  their  imitative  powers.  An  En- 
glishman once  gave  an  order  for  a  pair  of  trousers  exactly 
the  cut  of  those  he  was  wearing.  Unfortunately,  there  was 
a  patch  on  the  seat,  which  the  cunning  tailor  observed  in 


ORNAMENTS  AND  JEWELS. 


making  the  new  ones.  After  he  had  finished  them  he  cut 
out  a  hole  the  same  size  and  sewed  a  patch  on  to  imitate  the 
old  pair.  Millions  of  gold  and  silver  are  imported  from  Eu- 
rope into  India  and  manufactured  into  jewelry.  The  pas- 
sion for  ornaments  is  universal,  as  much  as  five  to  ten 
pounds  of  silver  bangles,  necklaces,  bracelets,  rings  in  the 


HINDOO  PAGODA   IN   BOMBAY. 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,  Jeypore.  265 

ears,  lips,  nose,  and  on  the  fingers,  are  sometimes  worn  by 
Hindoo  women.  I  have  seen  their  toes  even  strung  with 
pearls.  The  mothers  are  fond  of  exhibiting  their  brats 
astride  their  shoulders,  perfectly  nude,  ablaze  with  orna- 
ments. One  woman  was  once  known  to  have  worn  thirty 
pounds  on  her  person,  worth  several  thousand  dollars. 

The  currency  in  India  is  in  rupees  (silver),  pies,  and  an- 
nas. It  requires  sixteen  annas  to  make  one  rupee,  whose 
commercial  value  is  fifty  cents;  and  one  anna  is  equal  to 
twelve  pies,  or  one  and  a  half  pence  equals  three  cents. 
The  pies  are  copper  coins.  Shells  are  used  for  money  in 
some  parts  of  India.  Then  large  houses  in  London  and 
Paris  have  branches  established  in  every  important  city 
around  the  world,  which  issue  their  notes  in  pounds  ster- 
ling, or  francs,  that  circulate  in  extensive  transactions. 
Very  often  the  English  gold  sovereign  is  at  a  premium  in 
India  and  the  East.  But  gold  never  circulates;  you  get 
its  equivalent  in  rupees  or  notes. 

The  city  of  Bombay  boasts  of  several  fine  pagodas,  carved 
in  rich  bass-relief,  representing  monkeys,  birds,  and  other 
objects  of  worship.  The  Hindoos  decorate  their  temples 
with  little  brass  bells,  which  they  touch  on  entering  for 
worship.  Some  favorite  deity  is  usually  carved  on  the  han- 
dle. The  Hindoos  and  Parsees  use  a  rosary  and  beads  sim- 
ilar to  those  of  the  Catholics  in  their  worship.  The  Parsees 
profess  to  worship  God,  but  they  pay  homage  to  the  ocean, 
fire,  moon,  and  sun.  Early  in  the  morning  you  may  ob- 
serve them  bathing  in  the  sea  and  bowing  to  it,  and  then  to 
the  sun.  They  cry,  "  O  God,  thou  madest  the  sea  and  the 
sun!"  They  never  let  the  fire  go  out  in  their  temples. 
The  flame  is  the  emblem  of  the  vital  spark.  A  Parsee 
told  me  he  never  smoked,  because  his  pipe  might  go  out; 
he  never  killed  a  cow,  because  it  gave  his  babe  milk  when 
its  mother  died.  The  cow  was  the  mother  to  his  child. 


266  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

I  enjoyed  a  fine  drive  in  a  carriage  to  Malabar  Hills, 
west  of  the  city.  Upon  these  hills,  about  three  hundred 
feet  high,  the  Parsees  bury  their  dead  in  the  "  Towers  of 
Silence."  These  are  seven  in  number,  being  round,  hollow, 
and  perpendicular  structures,  rising  twenty-five  to  thirty 
feet  in  height.  They  appear  to  be  very  broad  on  top,  prob- 
ably sixty  yards  across.  About  two  feet  below  the  top,  on 
the  inside,  is  an  incline  downward  metallic  roof,  with  an 
opening  one  foot  and  a  half  in  the  center.  There  are  ridges 
raised  above  this  roof  at  proper  intervals  just  large  enough 
to  receive  a  human  body  in  the  groove  between.  The  cloth- 
ing is  first  removed,  and  in  twenty  to  sixty  minutes  after 
the  bodies  are  laid  here  every  particle  of  the  flesh  is  con- 
sumed by  the  vultures.  I  saw  these  birds  in  large  numbers 
'sitting  around  on  the  parapets  waiting.  One  tower  is 
used  at  a  time,  then  another,  giving  time  for  the  bones  to 
decay.  The  theory  is,  under  the  disintegrating  influences  of 
the  sun's  heat  and  rains  the  bones  decompose  and  disappear 
in  the  aperture  below.  "  Dust  thou  art,  and  unto  dust  shalt 
thou  return."  There  was  a  model  of  these  towers,  which  the 
priest  showed  me  with  explanations.  Close  by  was  a  temple 
in  which  fire  was  burning.  The  bu rial-service  of  the  Parsees 
is  very  pretty.  The  mourners  march  behind  the  corpse, 
holding  the  ends  of  a  white  handkerchief  between  them. 

I  enjoyed  a  glorious  panoramic  view  of  the  city  envel- 
oped in  palm-trees,  and  the  ocean  gleaming  like  a  mirror 
below  me.  I  could  see  many  cotton  factories  sending  up 
dense  columns  of  black  smoke  on  the  suburbs,  and  the  bay 
studded  with  its  peculiar  craft  flitting  about  under  their 
"lanteen  sails."  I  passed  a  magnificent  swimming-bath, 
that  resembles  Solomon's  Pools,  on  top  of  the  hill,  where 
the  pretty  Parsee  ladies  indulged  in  swimming  and  luxu- 
rious plunges.  Many  of  the  bungalows,  with  their  broad 
verandas,  oprn  windows,  and  beautiful  tropical  gardens  in 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,  Jeypore.  267 

bloom,  presented  a  veritable  paradise  for  a  home.  Some 
of  these  homes  rent  as  high  as  three  thousand  rupees  a  year 
to  wealthy  Europeans — English  army  officers,  whose  fami- 
lies reside  here  until  the  hot  season  sets  in. 

Returning  along  the  Esplanade,  I  stopped  at  the  Hindoo 
Burning  Ghaut,  and  saw  them  cremate  the  dead.  A  num- 
ber of  furnaces  were  ablaze  with  fagots,  and  oil  poured  over 
the  body  to  facilitate  its  rapid  consumption  by  the  crack- 
ling flames.  The  Hindoos  are  crafty  in  catching  fish  as 
well  as  in  other  arts.  Along  the  shores  were  large  stone 
pens,  into  which  the  fish  were  driven  at  high  tides. 
These  were  then  closed  up  and  the  game  brought  to  shore 
with  nets,  or  caught  when  the  water  had  disappeared.  The 
Hindoo  boys  were  playing  base-ball  on  the  parade-grounds 
fronting  the  bay,  running  and  catching  with  great  enthusi- 
asm. The  English  play  cricket,  and  indulge  in  horse-rac- 
ing. They  have  a  game  called  "  polo,"  they  play  on  ponies, 
very  exciting.  When  the  "  boom"  was  on  in  Bombay  some 
years  ago,  speculators  ran  riot  in  boosting  stocks  on  these 
pleasure-grounds.  Shares  sold  at  fabulous  prices  when 
money  was  plenty,  but  the  collapse  came  at  last,  and  the 
"made  land"  that  cost  millions  burst  the  company  like  a 
"  South  Sea  bubble."  But  this  "  Back  Bay,"  since  Bombay 
has  become  the  great  railroad  center,  is  looming  up  as  a 
real  estate  investment.  The  English  have  erected  powerful 
compresses  along  the  bay  for  exporting  cotton  to  Liverpool. 
The  bale  is  reduced  to  eighteen  inches  in  diameter  by  four 
or  five  feet  in  length,  averaging  four  hundred  and  fifty  to 
five  hundred  pounds.  About  one  million  bales  are  the  an- 
nual receipts  at  Bombay. 

I  visited  "Pinjrapole,"  a  charity  hospital  the  Hindoos 
have  established  for  aged  animals — the  sick,  lame,  halt,  and 
blind— which  is  liberally  maintained  by  contributions  from 
strangers  and  donations  from  the  society.  This  institution 


268  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

supports  fifteen  hundred  different  subjects — old  horses,  cows, 
mangy  curs,  and  monkeys — which  receive  the  best  care  and 
medical  attention.  I  saw  a  regular  dispensary  and  several 
favorites  in  the  throes  of  death.  The  superintendent  asked 
me  to  register  my  name,  and  showed  me  great  kindness 
during  my  visit. 

If  you  want  to  spend  an  evening  delightfully,  the  Victo- 
ria Botanical  and  Zoological  Gardens  are  full  of  interest  to 
the  student.  One  of  the  most  interesting  places  I  saw  was 
the  Horse  Bazaar,  where  fully  five  hundred  animals,  mostly 
Arabian  steeds,  were  on  exhibition.  Many  horses  are  also 
brought  from  Australia,  and  nearly  all  find  a  market  in 
Europe.  Some  of  the  Arabians  (all  stallions)  were  bays, 
grays,  sorrels,  and  blacks,  with  fine  heads  and  flashing  eyes, 
broad  breasts  and  well-turned  ankles  and  legs.  Prices 
range  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  five  hundred  dollars. 
They  are  brought  down  the  Persian  Gulf  from  Kurrachee, 
and  attended  by  Arabs. 

Elephanta  Cave  is  on  one  of  the  islands  in  the  harbor  of 
Bombay,  about  six  miles  distant.  We  reach  it  by  a  small 
sail-boat,  and  landing  ascend  by  a  flight  of  stone  steps  to 
the  entrace.  The  temple  is  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  more 
than  one  hundred  feet  long  and  thirty  feet  wide,  with  a 
stone  roof  overhead,  supported  by  long  rows  of  massive 
sculptured  pillars.  Formerly  great  stone  elephants  stood  at 
the  entrance,  which  gave  the  island  and  temple  the  name 
of  Elephanta.  One  of  these  has  been  removed  to  Victoria 
Gardens,  which  we  visited  in  Bombay.  The  interior  of  this 
rock-hewn  temple  presents  one  of  the  strangest  sights  in  the 
world.  At  one  end  of  a  long  room  are  groups  of  idols  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock.  In  the  central  group  is  an  immense 
figure  with  three  heads  on  it,  nearly  twenty  feet  high,  sup- 
posed to  represent  the  Hindoo  trinity — Brahma,  Vishnu,, 
and  Siva.  Singular  groups  stand  on  either  side,  one  a 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajm&re,  Jeypore. 


269 


woman  with  a  single  breast.  Ponderous  figures  guard  out- 
side temples  or  entrances,  which,  eight  hundred  years  ago, 
when  all  this  gigantic  work  was  first  built,  must  have  in- 
spired universal  awe  in  the  idolaters  of  those  times.  Siva 
is  very  much  neglected  at  the  present  time,  and  has  few  or 
no  worshipers  about  its  ancient  shrines.  The  Duke  of  Edin- 
burgh and  Prince  of  Wales  once  visited  this  curious  temple. 
Bishop  Marvin  and  Dr.  Hendrix  sung  the  doxology  in  it. 


AT  FULL.  SPEED. 

Some  wealthy  native  has  erected  a  beautiful  marble 
statue  to  Queen  Victoria  in  Bombay.  The  Empress  of  In- 
dia, in  return,  bestowed  the  honors  of  royalty  on  the  loyal 
prince.  The  American  street-cars  have  proved  an  immense 
success;  but  they  have  been  changed  into  the  English 
name  of  "  tram-way."  It  runs  in  front  of  the  Taylor  House, 
crowded  with  the  natives.  Then  there  is  the  shigram.  What 
is  that?  A  top-covered  buggy.  Then  the  four-wheeler. 


270  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

with  four  seats  and  one  horse,  the  body  hanging  low  be- 
tween the  wheels ;  elegant  private  coaches,  omnibuses,  ox- 
carts, and  ox-buggies  in  which  the  jewel-bedecked  dam- 
sels drive  with  their  sweethearts,  chatting  and  jabbering 
for  dear  life.  The  crowded  streets  presented  the  holiday  at- 
tire in  a  gorgeous  moving  panorama.  It  is  the  pairing 
season,  when  marriages  are  being  celebrated  by  those  given 
in  childhood  to  marriage.  The  wealth  of  the  Hindoos  to 
the  fifth  cousin  is  pledged  to  honor  this  eventful  occasion. 
The  bride  and  groom  are  overwhelmed  with  every  conceiv- 
able present  that  will  equip  them  for  a  fair  start  in  life. 
These  festive  occasions  continue  three  or  more  days,  and 
they  had  "  caught  well "  on  to  Bombay.  When  I  arrived  I 
found  all  the  banks  closed — impossible  to  negotiate  a  loan 
on  my  circular  letter.  The  English  houses  and  Parsees 
were  equally  observant  with  the  Hindoos.  I  should  have 
been  sorely  perplexed  about  leaving  but  for  the  generous 
offer  of  Mr.  Henry  Ballantyne,  an  American  merchant 
here,  who  loaned  me  all  the  currency  I  needed,  and  took 
iny  plain  note,  payable  several  weeks  hence  in  Calcutta. 
Say  what  you  please,  we  are  Americans  abroad  if  not  at 
home.  Mr.  Ballantyne  is  a  gentleman  of  distinction  and  a 
son  of  a  Boston  missionary,  born  in  India,  if  I  am  not 
mistaken.  Before  my  departure  he  showed  me  much  kind- 
ness, as  he  spoke  the  native  languages  fluently.  With  him 
I  saw  the  glorious  banyan-tree,  with  its  tendrils  drooping  to 
the  ground,  taking  root  and  forming  a  grove  of  trees.  He 
showed  me  the  palatial  edifices  and  public  buildings  of 
Bombay,  and  told  me  much  about  cotton,  its  culture  and 
history  in  India. 

I  left  Bombay  by  the  B.  B.  Railroad  to  Ahmedabad, 
three  hundred  and  ten  miles  distant.  From  here  the  main 
line  runs  across  the  peninsula  to  Allahabad,  where  it  inter- 
sects the  great  East  India  system,  running  north  to  Delhi 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,  Jeypore.  271 

and  south  down  the  Ganges  Valley  to  Calcutta.  But  we 
are  going  into  North-west  India,  and  must  change  cars  at 
Ahmedabad  to  the  Rajputana  Malway  Railway,  a  narrow- 
gauge  road  that  has  recently  been  extended  to  Delhi,  eight 
hundred  miles  or  more  still  farther  to  the  north-west.  So 
we  have  nearly  twelve  hundred  miles  of  constant  travel  be- 
fore us  to  reach  the  famous  old  capital  of  the  Moguls,  much 
of  the  road  traversing  a  dreary,  arid  desert. 

For  hundreds  of  miles  we  pass  up  the  Bay  of  Cambay, 
whose  placid  waters  now  and  then  gleam  through  the  feath- 
ery plumage  of  the  cocoa-nut  palms.  We  look  across 
well-cultivated  fields  studded  with  the  mango,  whose  deli- 
cious fruit  is  now  ripening  under  a  foliage  that  resembles 
an  apple-tree.  How  the  monkeys,  in  their  native  land, 
scamper  away  in  troops  on  the  approach  of  our  train !  At 
the  stations  they  will  come  to  you  and  almost  eat  out  of 
your  hands.  I  saw  a  group  near  the  city  of  Baroda  sitting 
erect  facing  each  other  as  if  they  were  discussing  some 
grave  philosophical  question.  They  were  of  a  large  gray 
species,  with  long  pendent  tails.  In  an  instant  they  went 
bounding  away  over  the  fields  with  their  "tails  over  the 
dash-boards,"  up  some  tall  mango-trees.  I  suppose  they 
had  been  discussing  some  future  family  arrangements.  I 
heard  they  were  consummate  thieves,  and  stole  every  thing 
they  could  lay  their  hands  on.  Yet  the  Hindoos  worship 
the  monkey.  He  is  one  of  their  favorite  gods.  They  have 
erected  temples  in  his  honor,  and  show  him  great  distinction 
in  bestowing  favors. 

Bombay  is  in  nineteen  degrees  north  latitude.  As  we  go 
north  we  rise  higher  and  higher,  but  the  heat  is  intense. 
The  country  is  perfectly  level  for  three  hundred  miles  or 
aiore,  planted  in  rice,  sugar-cane,  oats,  barley,  sorghum, 
dhoura  corn,  vegetables,  etc.  About  every  station  the  En- 
glish plant  flowers  and  lay  out  gravel  walks,  bordered  with 


272  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

geraniums,  fuchsias,  roses,  and  evergreens.  The  flora  is 
gorgeous  and  brilliant.  The  flaming  flamboyant  is  always 
conspicuous  in  India.  The  most  delicious  mangos,  bananas, 
pines,  and  cocoa-nuts  grow  in  profusion.  They  are  remark- 
ably cheap:  a  bunch  of  bananas  for  five  cents,  cocoa-nuts 
two  cents  each,  other  fruits  nominal. 

The  birds  of  India  are  no  less  beautiful  for  their  plum- 
age and  attractive  in  song.  Like  the  monkeys,* they  are  so 
gentle  they  will  hardly  fly  on  your  near  approach.  The 
Hindoo  never  shoots  a  bird,  nor  are  the  nests  or  young 
robbed  by  bad  boys.  Many  of  the  birds  are  held  in  sacred 
veneration.  The  adjutant  cranes  are  a  great  curiosity. 
They  stand  in  the  fields,  gardens,  or  on  the  house-tops  for 
hours,,  on  their  slender  legs,  watching,  almost  motionless. 
If  you  pass  by  them  they  turn  their  eyes  around  at  you. 
The  English  soldiers  have  a  way  of  tying  bits  of  meat  to- 
gether with  several  yards  of  cord  between.  The  cranes 
gobble  these  down  and  attempt  to  rise,  "one  aiming  for  a 
tree,  another  for  a  house-top."  Pulling  and  fluttering,  they 
soon  lose  their  balance,  then  their  breakfast,  and,  tumbled 
in  confusion,  pull  the  first  one  down. 

We  had  changed  cars  at  Ahmedabad  for  Delhi,  and  the 
second  day  had  put  many  dreary  wastes  between  us  and  the 
rich  alluvial  lands  we  had  left  behind  us.  Occasional  patches 
of  wheat  appeared  along  the  road,  with  a  well  on  each  acre 
for  irrigating.  The  water  is  raised  by  a  bucket,  rope,  and 
bullock.  The  bullock  walks  down  an  incline  plane  from 
the  well,  and  when  the  large  bucket  empties  itself  he  walks 
back  and  it  descends.  All  crops  are  planted  in  drills,  and 
the  water  is  conducted  in  little  trenches  between. 

We  passed  Ajmere,  six  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  from 
Bombay.  Here  is  Mayo  College,  where  the  young  princes 
of  the  Rajputana  States  are  educated.  It  is  an  object  of  great 
interest  and  architectural  beauty.  The  country  grows  rocky 

*  Those  in  the  picture  are  the  bridge  monkeys.  They  swing  across  small 
streams,  and  catch  to  a  limb  on  the  opposite  si'de;  then  other  monkeys  run 
over  on  their  backs. 


(272) 


THE  ruOXKEY    IM    His   NATIVE  JUNGLE. 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,  Jeypore.  273 

and  barren  again,  with  scrub  and  grass  that  are  rapidly 
disappearing  before  the  increasing  heat  of  the  sun  and  the 
bite  of  the  roaming  herds  of  buffalo,  cattle,  goats,  and  don- 
keys that  have  begun  already  to  browse  on  the  foliage  of 
the  trees.  The  dry  season  must  continue  for  some  time  yet 
—until  the  monsoon  rains  begin  in  June. 

I  saw  a  number  of  jackals  that  sometimes  approached 
very  near  our  train.  They  resemble  a  gray  fox  in  some 
respects,  with  drooping  tail  and  little  sharp  ears.  They  re- 
minded me  of  a  sneaking  cur.  They  are  the  deadly  ene- 
mies of  the  Mohammedan  grave-yards.  Troops  of  voracious 
wolves  are  no  less  numerous  in  North-west  India.  Their 
howls  can  be  heard  in  the  distant  jungles.  They  are  very 
destructive  to  young  lambs  and  goats,  but  the  natives  em- 
ploy an  ingenious  method  in  trapping  them,  which  is  seen 
by  the  illustration  on  the  next  page. 

Many  small  deer  were  passed,  which  turned  their  pretty 
heads  toward  us  as  we  thundered  by.  Some  of  them  did  not 
even  start  to  their  feet,  but  stood  grazing ;  many  not  larger 
than  a  fox-hound  in  Georgia.  On  either  side  were  rugged 
mountains  and  wild,  picturesque  scenes. 

We  are  approaching  Jeypore,  the  most  beautiful  city  in 
India,  famous  for  its  pretty  gardens  and  charming  walks 
and  drives.  It  has  one  street  running  through  it,  two  miles 
long  and  forty  yards  wide,  that  is  a  marvel  of  symmetrical 
beauty.  The  city  owes  much  of  its  splendor  to  the  late 
Maharajah,  who  spent  four  laks  of  rupees  ($200,000)  on 
its  adornment.  The  garden  of  the  palace  is  extremely 
lovely. 

In  a  pretty  little  valley  north-east  of  the  city  is  the 
capital  of  the  State,  the  decayed  city  of -Amber.  We  ride 
out  on  elephants,  in  true  Oriental  grandeur.  If  you  can 
imagine  yourself  a  rajah  (native  prince),  with  his  gorgeous 
equipage,  footmen,  and  attendants,  you  will  have  the  grand- 
18 


274 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


The  natives  hanx  the  little  ueer  up  in  H  basket  to  attract  the  wolves,  then 
slip  around  m  the  jungle  and  shoot  them. 


Bombay,  Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,  Jeypore.  275 

est  conceptions  of  this  journey.  The  old  city  is  embosomed 
in  a  valley  surrounded  by  lofty  hills,  on  the  banks  of  a 
charming  lake,  above  which  rises  the  vast  and  imposing 
Palace  of  Amber.  Bishop  Heber  viewed  the  landscape 
from  its  summit  once,  and  declared  it  to  be  the  most  strik- 
ing and  picturesque  scene  he  had  ever  beheld  on  earth. 
Above  the  palace  is  the  zenana,  and  higher  still,  from  the 
top  of  the  mountain,  rose  the  gloomy  old  castle  with  its  an- 
cient towers. 

I  like  Jeypore.  There  is  so  much  style  about  it.  On 
my  arrival  this  morning  I  witnessed  several  ludicrous  and 
amusing  scenes.  I  was  reminded  of  the  palmy  days  of  our 
republic  when  I  beheld  nearly  a  doze*  Hindoos  bowing  and 
scraping  before  two  English  soldiers  who  had  disembarked 
here.  They  were  all  offering  their  valuable  services.  Three 
or  four  were  elevating  the  two  grip-sacks  on  the  two-horse 
dak,  the  guns  were  being  carefully  handled  and  placed 
away  by  two  more  of  these  ebony  coolies,  while  the  imper- 
sonation of  Chesterfield  himself  stood  at  both  doors  waving 
the  soldiers  in.  This  was  not  all:  there  were  a  couple  of 
fellows  to  run  ahead  to  clear  the  way  so  the  English  pri- 
•vates,  with  their  imposing  retinue,  could  pass.  The  impress- 
iveness  of  this  whole  ceremony  would  remind  you  of  the 
Czar's  entry  into  Moscow.  I  am  only  too  sorry  I  cannot  re- 
produce a  pictorial  illustration  of  this  spirited  scene,  which 
should  have  been  dramatized  for  the  burlesque  opera. 

I  have  often  heard  about  women  wearing  the  breeches  in 
my  own  country.  I  have  actually  seen  two  of  these  mon- 
strosities at  Jeypore.  They  had  pantaloons  on  and  babies 
in  their  arms.  It  was  such  a  marked  improvement  on  those 
girls'  toilets  down  about  Bombay  that  I  was  startled  at  their 
personal  appearance.  It  was  such  extravagance,  su  ch  a  reck- 
les.s  waste  of  cloth,  I  concluded  they  must  be  people  of  wealth. 

As  Jeypore — with  its  royal  gardens,  its  palaces  and  works 


276  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  art,  faded  on  my  view,  the  soft,  sweet  notes  of  the  mock- 
ing-bird woke  me  from  delicious  reveries  of  Oriental  beauty 
to  thoughts  of  home,  sweet  home.  I  saw  an  ox-team  loaded 
with  cotton  going  toward  Jeypore,  which  too  bore  a  charm 
about  it  that  reminded  me  of  home.  AVe  passed  over  peb- 
bled brooks  and  dry  bottoms  of  rivers,  across  a  beautiful 
plain  from  which  a  crop  of  wheat  had  been  taken.  To  my 
right  was  a  little  city  embosomed  in  luxuriant  foliage, 
from  which  ran  down  t9  the  station  a  broad,  grand  avenue, 
crowded  with  the  natives  who  were  coming  or  had  arrived 
to  meet  our  train.  "  Five  minutes  at  Reware  for  refresh- 
ments ! "  shouted  the  guard.  The  station-master  passes  along 
tapping  every  wheel  t®  see  that  none  are  broken,  and  behind 
comes  the  lubricating  man,  while  I  strolled  leisurely  about, 
with  thoughts  pensively  turning  to  objects  of  love.  I  was 
just  beginning  to  admire  the  quiet  little  town  of  Reware, 
its  good  order,  its  broad  avenues  of  interlacing  trees,  the 
coquetry  of  its  pretty  maidens,  and  the  prospect  of  a  mother- 
in-law,  when  some  thoughtless  pirate  screamed  out,  "Sec- 
ond-class coffee  here,  gentlemen!  Come  right  this  way!" 
I  felt  like  pulverizing  that  heathen.  I  was  almost  tempted 
to  destroy  him.  They  have  got  the  coffee  classified  here 
according  to  the  cars  you  ride  in.  This  coffee  must  have 
been  about  fifth-class.  Caste  and  class  are  ruling  passions 
in  India.  It  seems  I  have  completely  lost  my  identity.  I 
have  seen  so  many  stove-pipe  Parsees,  Hindoos,  and  tur- 
baned  Mohammedans,  grades,  distinctions,  and  different  col- 
ors, I  sometimes  wonder  while  traveling  whether  this  is  me 
or  somebody  else.  I  am  getting  alarmed  about  my  nation- 
ality. I  shall  take  a  census  of  myself  when  I  arrive  at 
Delhi.  I  forgot  to  mention  my  traveling  companion  from 
Ajmere.  It  was  really  refreshing  to  meet  a  Jew  away  off 
here  in  India — a  relative  of  the  Wandering  Jew,  perhaps. 
It  made  me  feel  so  familiar.  He  was  Hungarian,  Hindoo, 


STATE   PROCESSION    IN   INDIA.       (NATIVE   PRINCES 


Features  of  British  India.  277 

or  any  thing  else  to  sell  his  jewelry.  In  Georgia  he  would 
.be  called  a  commercial  tourist;  but  in  Rajputana  a  ped- 
dler. Like  the  English,  he  had  come  out  to  India  too  to 
make  his  fortune.  He  had  a  fine  collection  of  goods,  and 
one  servant,  with  opera-glass.  We  stopped  at  the  Dak 
Bungalow,  near  the  post-office,  kept  by  natives  in  first-clasb 
style.  I  enjoyed  an  excellent  bath  in  a  tub  on  a  stone  floor 
Next  morning  I  awoke  to  find  my  room  full  of  birds.  They 
were  chirping,  singing,  and  feeding  their  young.  Several 
hopped  iii  and  out  the  door  with  great  familiarity.  I  could 
have  opened  an  aviary,  or  side-show,  on  short  notice.  I 
heard  the  pesky  crow  outside,  holding  his  concert. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

BRITISH  INDIA — POPULATION — RAILROADS — INFLUENCE 
ON  DEVELOPMENT — SCHOOLS — ZENANA  MISSION,  ETC. 

"TjRITISH  INDIA  consists  of  nine  provinces,  with  a  total 
JD  population  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  million.  It  is 
about  two  thousand  miles  long  and  one  thousand  five  hun- 
dred miles  in  width.  On  the  west  is  a  coast  range,  known 
as  the  Ghauts,  while  far  to  the  north  rises  the  lofty  Him- 
alayas, the  highest  in  the  world,  lifting  their  snowy  peaks 
above  the  Vale  of  Cashmere. 

For  two  hundred  years  nearly  the  wealthy  East  India 
Company  governed  much  of  the  country  with  a  despotic 
hand.  It  kept ,  standing  armies  and  garrisoned  forts.  It 
acquired  by  power  and  purchase  an  extensive  domain  after 
it  had  once  obtained  a  foothold.  After  the  Sepoy  rebellion 
in  1857,  England  gradually  came  into  full  possession  and 
control,  until  some  years  later  the  present  Queen  was  de- 
clared the  Empress  of  India.  The  whole  country  is  now 
governed  by  a  Viceroy,  or  Governor-general,  who  is  ap- 


278  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

pointed  or  removed  at  her  pleasure.  It  is  divided  into  four 
presidencies — Bombay  in  the  west,  Bengal  in  the  east,  Pun- 
jab in  the  north-west,  and  Madras  in  the  south.  Think  of 
seventy-five  thousand  Englishmen  holding  in  subjection  one- 
sixth  of  the  entire  population  of  the  globe !  The  power  of 
England  is  one  of  the  marvels  of  history. 

In  1612  the  first  factory  was  established  at  Surat,  north 
of  Bombay.  No  other  port  was  opened  until  1662,  "when 
Catherine  of  Portugal  presented  to  Charles  II.  Bombay, 
as  a  small  item  in  her  dowry."  In  1698  the  East  India 
Company  purchased  Calcutta  to  control  the  Valley  of  the 
Ganges.  Caste  and  the  Mohammedan  rule  so  degraded  the 
country  that  it  finally  fell  -an  easy  victim  to  British  power. 
At  present  the  country  enjoys  an  annual  revenue  of  $45,000,- 
000  or  more  from  opium.  It  exports  more  wheat  than  any 
other  country,  except  America.  It  is  second  in  the  produc- 
tion of  cotton.  It  exports  largely  of  indigo,  hemp,  jute,  and 
gunny  bagging.  The  Governor-general  receives  a  salary  of 
$125,000  per  annum,  besides  $50,000  to  entertain  his  guests, 
and  other  allowances.  His  six  Counselors  get  $40,000  each, 
and  the  Lieutenant-governor  $50,000.  The  Secretaries  re- 
ceive $24,000  each  per  annum.  For  educational  purposes 
$3,370,000  is  annually  paid  to  enlighten  its  teeming  mill- 
ions, while  $700,000  is  paid  the  English  Church  in  India. 

Up  to  1853  the  only  conveyances  were  bullock-carts,  daks, 
and  palanquins.  These  last  conveyances  were  borne  on 
men's  shoulders  along  paths  through  the  country.  The 
only  two  great  rivers,  the  Ganges  and  Indus,  are  navigable 
for  large  boats  about  half  the  year.  . 

When  the  project  of  constructing  railroads  was  first  agi- 
tated it  was  predicted  it  would  be  a  failure  on  account  of 
religious  prejudice,  which  forbids  the  intermingling  of  the 
different  castes.  The  work  was  begun  in  1853  by  private 
companies,  the  Government  aiding  them  by  a  grant  of  land 


INDIA 


(279) 


280  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

for  ninety-nine  years,  and  also  five  per  cent,  interest  on  the 
money  spent  in  construction.  All  income  was  to  be  paid 
into  the  public  treasury.  If  there  should  be  a  surplus  after 
paying  back  the  five  per  cent,  advanced  from  the  net  earn- 
ings of  the  roads,  first  deducting  current  expenses,  one-half 
of  it  was  to  be  divided  among  the  stockholders  and  the  other 
half  went  to  the  Government.  "  When  all  arrearages  were 
paid  the  companies  were  to  receive  ten  per  cent. ;  but  should 
the  income  exceed  that  rate  the  authorities  should  have 
power  to  lower  the  fares."  At  the  end  of  ninety-nine  years 
the  property  reverts  to  the  Government,  and  it  pays  back 
the  original  cost. 

First,  short  lines  to  Surat,  Baroda,  and  Ahmedabad  were 
laid,  and  now  it  is  estimated  no  less  than  ten  thousand  miles 
are  in  operation  throughout  the  Empire.  Many  miles  cost 
$85,000  each.  The  gauge  is  about  five  feet,  with  steel  rails, 
laid  in  stone  or  ballast,  over  iron  bridges,  and  many  miles 
on  iron  cross- ties.  The  ants  are  so  destructive  to  wood  it  is 
probable  all  the  roads  will  adopt  the  iron  ties,  or  some  nec- 
essary precaution  to  protect  them. 

The  Hindoos  were  employed  as  laborers  at  ten  cents  a 
day.  They  were  paid  off  every  night  to  insure  confidence, 
men  and  women  alike  working  together.  They  carried  out 
the  dirt  for  fillings  and  from  excavations  in  baskets  on  their 
heads.  One  of  the  contractors  furnished  several  thousand 
wheelbarrows;  but  he  went  out  in  a  few  days  and,  to  his 
dismay,  found  "  all  his  hands  carrying  them  on  top  of  their 
heads" — the  force  of  old  customs.  Thought  the  wheel  was 
an  ornament. 

The  East  India  is  the  Pennsylvania  Central,  or  the  Geor- 
gia Central,  of  India — one  of  the  greatest  roads  in  the  world. 
It  has  a  five-foot  six-inch  gauge,  makes  its  own  oil,  mines 
its  own  coal,  manufactures  its  rolling-stock,  and  declares  a 
net  dividend  of  five  per  cent,  on  its  capital  stock.  It  con- 
trols about  two  thousand  miles  of  way.  Its  main  line  run? 


Features  of  British  India. 


281 


HARD  WORK. 

down  the  Ganges  from  here  to  Calcutta,  one  thousand  miles, 
with  branch  lines  to  Jubbulpore  and  other  cities.  The  com- 
partment system — the  same  described  in  Europe — with  four 
classes,  is  adopted  in  India.  The  third  class  is  one  cent  per 
mile,  and  fourth  class  seventy-five  cents  per  hundred  miles. 
It  works  like  a  charm  among  the  Hindoos.  When  the 
<  ars  first  began  to  run  the  natives  fell  down  and  worshiped 
them.  They  regarded-  the  power  of  the  engine  as  super- 
natural. The  cars  have  well-nigh  broken  down  caste.  It  is 
amusing  to  watch  the  high  caste  (Brahman)  priests  get  in 
the  third-class  cars  with  the  poor,  dejected  Pariah,  whose 
shadow  he  would  have  forbid  crossing  his  threshold  twenty 
years  ago.  I  saw  a  veiled  woman,  borne  on  a  palanquin, 
placed  in  one  of  these  compartments  one  day.  She  was 
completely  shrouded  in  a  white  sheet.  I  procured  a  seat 
near  by,  and  watched  her  for  twenty  miles  or  more.  After 
my  patience  was  nearly  exhausted  I  observed  her  looking 
through  a  little  crack  at  me.  The  Bible,  railroads,  and 
heavy  cannon  are  blazing  the  highways  for  the  spread  of 
the  gospel  in  the  far  East 


282  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Secular  and  Sunday  schools  are  doing  a  wonderful  work 
in  India.  The  Hindoos  find  there  is  prosperity  and  wealth 
in  learning  the  English  language.  They  get  higher  wages. 
Formerly  they  prayed  to  their  gods  for  such  favors,  but 
they  find  that  thrift  and  industry  bring  remunerative  re- 
turns to  those  who  have  no  faith  in  idols.  The  manufact- 
ured deities  that  once  sold  so  rapidly  at  their  festivals  on 
the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  in  honor  of  their  god  Durga, 
now  find  few  if  any  purchasers.  Outside  the  Government 
and  missionary  schools,  about  twenty-four  years  ago  a  so- 
ciety of  American  women,  called  the  "Zenana  Mission," 
was  organized  to  elevate  the  women  of  India.  The  best 
classes  of  Hindoo  women,  once  married,  become  the  inmates 
of  the  zenanas — prison-houses— for  life.  Not  one  of  them  is 
ever  allowed  to  see  any  person  except  her  husband  and  as- 
sociates. Here  she  lives,  rears  her  children,  and  dies.  She 
has  no  knowledge  of  sewing,  knitting,  or  embroidery.  She  is 
literally  a  slave  to  the  passions  of  her  husband,  who  never 
trusts  her  to  see  even  his  most  intimate  friend.  If  her  hus- 
band dies  she  is  despised  by  all.  Better  if  she  had  cast  her- 
self upon  the  funeral-pile  and  perished  rather  than  endure 
the  eternal  shame  that  overwhelms  her  as  a  widow.  If  she 
dies  her  husband  marries  again.  The  suttee  is  no  longer  per- 
mitted in  British  India ;  the  Government  abolished  it  years 
ago.  But  in  Nepaul,  and  other  native  States,  it  is  still 
practiced  with  all  its  revolting  horrors. 

It  is  a  most  unfortunate  event  for  a  woman  to  be  barren, 
and  especially  not  to  bear  boy  children,  as  her  husband  is 
in  consequence  allowed  to  marry  another  woman.  You 
see  a  little  girl  on  the  street,  five  or  six  years  old,  with  a 
red  spot  between  her  eyes,  or  red  string  tied  around  her 
neck.  She  is  betrothed.  Some  little  boy  she  .has  never 
seen  is  to  be  her  future  husband.  It  may  be  she  does  not 
know  his  name.  The  marriage  is  celebrated  by  a  street  pag- 


Features  of  British  India.  283 

eant  that  represents  the  little  bridegroom  in  a  triumphal 
car,  or  borne  in  a  palanquin  amid  the  shouts  of  the  wed- 
ding procession,  music,  and  flowers ;  and  from  that  day  she 
wore  the  red  spot,  er  string,  as  an  emblem  of  her  betrothal. 
Suppose  her  little  husband  should  die  without  her  ever  hav- 
ing seen  him.  She  cannot  marry  again,  but  must  live  in 
solitude  and  mourning  the  remainder  of  her  life.  If  he 
lives,  in  a  few  years  later  she  is  taken  to  her  husband's 
home  and  becomes  his  wife  without  further  ceremony. 
Girls  in  India  often  become  mothers  at  ten  to  twelve  years 
of  age. 

"  What  is  a  zenana?"  I  have  said  it  was  a  prison-house, 
where  the  wives  of  the  best  classes  in  India  are  confined. 
It  is  usually  a  large  building,  with  separate  apartments,  in 
which  each  family  resides,  with  a  large  court,  or  open  space, 
in  the  center,  where  the  mothers,  with  their  children,  may 
find  exercise  or  recreation.  There  is  ventilation,  but  no 
windows.  They  cannot  even  look  in  the  starry  dome  of 
heaven,  or  see  the  sun  rise  and  set.  The  entire  structure  is 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall  that  resembles  a  fortress.  Usu- 
ally members  of  the  same  family  occupy  a  building.  Into 
these  vast  structures  the  missionary  women  have  been  ad- 
mitted of  late  years.  Here  they  are  teaching  the  women 
how  to  sew  and  embroider,  and  their  children  the  sweet 
story  of  Jesus.  They  are  taught  to  read  our  Bible  in  their 
language,  in  whose  study  they  find  comfort  and  relief. 
Many  of  the  native  women  are  educated  for  teachers,  and 
often,  in  the  schools  at  Calcutta,  "the  children  themselves 
teach  their  own  unhappy  mothers,"  observes  Dr.  Hendrix. 
I  regard  this  woman's  work  as  one  of  the  most  promising 
fields  for  missionary  labor  in  India. 


284  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

THE  HINDOOS:  THEIR  HISTORY,  LITERATURE,  AND  PHI- 
LOSOPHY— THE  HINDOO  BIBLE,  ETC. 

WE  look  back  into  the  shadowy  ages  of  the  mystic  past 
of  fable,  story,  and  romance  for  the  origin  of  this  an- 
cient race.  I  find  some  of  the  original  tribes  still  exist — 
the  Pariahs,  Malas,  Domes,  and  Koles.  The  word  "  coolie  " 
is  derived  from  the  last  name.  The  present  Hindoo  race 
bear  some  analogy  to  the  aborigines,  but  differ  in  many  of 
their  striking  characteristics,  customs,  and  habits  of  life. 
The  Hindoos  are  divided  into  castes,  while  the  aborigines 
observed  no  distinctions.  The  Hindoos  will  not  eat  beef; 
the  aborigines  eat  every  thing.  The  religion  of  the  Hin- 
doos forbids  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors;  the  aborigines 
get  drunk  to  this  day.  The  Hindoos  burn  their  dead;  the 
primitive  races  bury  theirs.  Three  thousand  years  ago  the 
Hindoos  were  advanced  in  learning,  science,  art,  and  phi- 
losophy ;  the  aborigines  have  advanced  little  in  civilization, 
being  nomadic,  like  the  American  Indians. 

The  Rig  Veda — the  Hindoo  Bible — consists  of  four  books, 
and  contains  about  one  thousand  hymns,  considered  among 
the  oldest  writings  in  the  world.  From  these  hymns  we  may 
infer  the  Aryans,  from  the  mountains  of  Persia,  settled  in 
the  Indus  Valley  before  the  time  that  the  Israelites  left  the 
land  of  Goshen. 

We  see  houses  in  India  to-day  the  models  of  three  thou- 
sand years  ago.  "  The  Aryans  lived  in  tents,  but  they  found 
a  people  living  in  houses.  These  people  lived  in  villages, 
and  worked  in  iron,  copper,  and  gold.  They  had  no  caste, 
but  ate  together.  Their  women  spun  and  wove,  and  were 
the  light  of  the  house."  (Coffin.) 

It  was  about  the  time  Nebuchadnezzar  took  Jerusalem 


Hindoo  History  and  Character. 


285 


and  carried  its  people  into  captivity  to  Babylon  that  the 
Brahmans  set  themselves  up  into  a  priesthood ;  and  through 
them  caste  was  first  established.  There  are  four  distinct 
castes  and  about  for^ty  or  more  different  shades,  I  think,  at 
present  in  India.  The  originals,  set  up  by  the  Brahmans, 
placed  themselves  or  the  priests  at  the  head  of  the  list ; 
next  soldiers,  merchants,  and  sudras.  Every  trade  has  its 
castes — blacksmiths,  carpenters,  barbers,  goldsmiths,  tailors, 
fishermen,  shoe-makers,  etc.  The  carpenter  is  disgraced  by 


HOUSE  IN  INDIA. 

coming  in  contact  with  the  herdsman,  the  tailor  with  the 
tanner.  There  is  no  intermarrying  of  castes.  If  a  man 
was  dying  for  a  drink  of  water  he  would  not  take  it  from  a 
cup  used  by  one  of  a  lower  order,  observes  the  Rev.  C.  C. 
Coffin.  If  he  was  drowning  he  could  not  save  his  life. 
The  son  must  always  follow  the  profession  of  his  father,  and 
his  sister  must  not  marry  outside  her  caste.  A  high  caste 
Brahman  may  make  a  low  caste  woman  his  mistress,  but 
not  his  wife;  he  would  never  get  to  heaven  if  he  did. 


286  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Caste  is  the  ruling  spirit  in  life  or  death.  The  Brahmans 
were  a  very  learned  sect.  After  poetry  came  a  period  of 
speculative  philosophy  that  divided  up  into  many  schools. 
One  school  reasoned  on  knowledge  that  comes  from  the  five 
senses;  another  on  the  methods  of  inquiry,  logic,  and  jus- 
tice, or  a  system  of  realism ;  the  third  was  pantheistic,  con- 
tending for  one  immortal,  self-existent  Brahma,  the  soul 
and  substance  of  all  matter.  All  these  schools  believed  in 
the  transmigration  of  souls.  The  Yoga  philosophy  teaches 
that  immunity  from  pain,  sorrow,  and  remorse  can  be  ob- 
tained by  concentrating  the  mind  in  intense  thought  on 
nothing.  The  person  is  supposed  to  be  in  a  meditative 
mood,  with  eyes  turned  into  space.  Such  concentration  se- 
cured perfect  contentment.  This  seems  a  plausible  philos- 
ophy, and  shows  that  many  people  nowadays  ought  to  be 
perfectly  happy. 

I  am  deeply  indebted  to  the  Rev.  Carleton  Coffin,  whose 
charming  book  of  travels  has  greatly  interested  me.  From 
the  Light  of  Asia,  by  Dr.  Arnold,  a  learned  Oriental 
scholar,  and  once  principal  of  Deccan  College  at  Pooua, 
we  learn  that  four  hundred  and  seventy  million  of  our  race 
live  and  die  in  the  tenets  of  Gautama,  the  founder  of  Bud- 
dhism, who  was  born  in  Nepaul,  India,  620  B.C.  Its  sub- 
lime teachings  have  been  ineffaceably  stamped  upon  modern 
Brahmanism.  More  than  one-third  of  mankind  owe  their 
religious  and  moral  ideas  to  this  illustrious  prince. 

It  seems  at  least,  says  Dr.  Arnold,  "that  Buddhism 
is  the  fruits  of  considerable  study,  or  a  third  of  the  human 
race  would  never  have  been  brought  to  believe  in  blank 
abstractions."  The  doctrine  of  transmigration,  so  startling 
to  modern  minds,  was  accepted  by  the  Hindoos  during  Bud- 
dha's times. 

I  make  a  few  quotations  from  the  Iliad  of  India,  now 
translated  for  the  first  time  by  Dr.  Arnold.  The  proverbs 


Hindoo  History  and  Character.  287 

of  the  Hitopadesa  bear  the  greatest  antiquity.  In  these 
two  epic  poems,  called  the  "Iliad,"  descriptive  of  a  jour- 
ney of  two  young  princes  and  their  entrance  into  heaven,  a 
beautiful  fable  of  constant  fidelity  is  contrasted  with  the 
Hindoo' representations  of  death  and  love. 

The  gate  of  heaven  opens  to  none  alone 

Save  thou  one  soul,  and  it  shall  save  thine  own. 

The  stories,  songs,  and  ballads,  the  histories  and  genealo- 
gies; the  art,  learning,  and  philosophy;  the  creeds,  moral- 
ities, and  even  modes  of  thought,  expressions,  and  daily 
ideas  of  the  Hindoo  people  are  taken  from  these  poems. 
Even  their  children  and  wives  are  named  out  of  them — their 
cities,  streets,  temples,  and  domestic  animals.  They  are  the 
newspaper,  Bible,  and  library  to  countless  millions  of  Indian 
people.  In  these  two  mighty  poems  are  contained  all  the 
history  of  ancient  India.  A  concluding  paragraph  says : 

"The  reading  of  the  'Mahabharata'  destroys  all  sin  and 
produces  virtue ;  so  much  so  that  the  pronunciation  of  a  sin- 
gle shioka  is  sufficient  to  wipe  away  much  guilt.  It  contains 
also  a  history  of  the  gods  of  the  kishis  in  heaven  and  those 
on  earth  of  the  grand  harvas  and  the  rakshasas.  It  speaks 
of  the  actions  and  life  of  one  God,  holy,  immutable,  and  true, 
who  is  Krishna,  the  creator  and  ruler  of  the  universe,  etc." 

A  few  proverbs  from  the  antique  work  of  the  Hitopadesa — 
the  father  of  nil  fables — that  have  passed  from  the  Sanskrit 
to  the  Persic,  Arabic,  and  finally  into  Hebrew  and  Greek, 
will  serve  to  illustrate  their  character.  ^Esop  quite  prob- 
ably borrowed  his  fables,  or  style,  from  this  old  Indian  work, 
the  oldest  of  which,  the  Rig  Veda,  dates  back  1300  B.C. : 

All  existence  is  not  equal, 

And  all  living  is  not  life. 
Sick  men  live,  and  he  who  banished, 

Pines  for  children,  home,  and  wife; 


288  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

And  true  bliss  is  when  a  sane  mind 

Doth  a  healthy  body  fill; 
And  true  knowledge  is  the  knowing 

What  is  good  and  what  is  ill. 

Whoso  for  greater  quits  small  gain 
Shall  have  his  labor  for  his  pain; 
The  things  unwon  unwon  remain, 
And  what  was  won  is  lost  again. 

Death  that  must  come,  comes  nobly 

When  we  give  our  wealth  and  life 

And  all  to  make  men  live. 

Be  his  Scripture  learning  ere  so  great, 

Cheat  will  be  a  cheat; 

Be  her  pasture  ne'er  so  bitter 

Yet  the  cow's  milk  will  taste  sweet. 

There  is  friend,  and  there  is  foe, 

As  our  actions  make  them  go. 

This  stanza  reads  like  Longfellow : 

Looking  down  on  lives  below  them, 

Men  of  little  store  are  great ; 
Looking  up  to  higher  fortunes, 

Hard  to  each  man  seems  his  fate. 

These  early  nations  most  undoubtedly  had  a  knowledge 
of  God,  if  not  of  the  old  Bible.  Much  of  their  history  is 
contemporaneous,  and  their  literature  of  the  highest  order. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

DELHI — ITS  PALACES  AND  MONUMENTS — SCENES  IN  THE 
OLD  MOGUL  CAPITAL — A  DRIVE  THROUGH  SEVEN  CIT- 
IES IN  RUINS — KOOTUB  MlNAR. 

WE  rose  early  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  of  April,  em- 
ployed a  Mohammedan  guide  and  carriage,  after  an 
excellent  breakfast,  to  do  the  city. 

The  Delhi  of  to-day  was  commenced  by  Shah  Jehan  in 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital  289 

1648,  but  much  of  its  ancient  splendor  was  marred  by  the 
Sepoy  rebellion  in  1857.  The  present  city  is  inclosed  by 
gigantic  walls  of  red  sandstone,  entered  by  eleven  gates, 
named  in  honor  of  Calcutta,  Lahore,  Ajmere,  Cashmere, 
Moon,  and  other  cities. 

Inside  the  fort,  or  palace  inclosure,  many  splendid  struct- 
ures have  been  replaced  by  barracks  for  the  troops ;  outside 
the  present  walls  are  scattered  in  every  direction  the  remains 
of  the  most  magnificent  cities  to  be  found  in  the  world. 
These  ruins  embrace  an  area  of  forty-five  miles  square,  and 
stretch  away  eleven  miles  south  to  the  Kootub  Minar  and 
Fort  Lalkot.  Ruined  arches  and  fallen  monuments,  splen- 
did tombs  and  mausoleums,  crumbling  walls  and  towers  of 
no  less  than  seven  ancient  capitals,  lie  in  prostrate  grandeur 
along  the  way.  The  objects  of  interest  in  and  around  Delhi 
are  too  numerous  for  an  extended  description.  The  main 
avenue  inside  the  city  is  the  famous  old  Chandni  Chouk, 
the  principal  buildings  comprising  the  Jumma  Musjid 
(mosque),  the  Halls  of  Audience,  the  Dewan  Khas,  the 
Royal  Baths,  the  Pearl  Mosque,  the  cemetery,  and  Ludlow 
Castle.  Outside,  the  staff  of  Feroz  Shah,  the  Emperor 
Humayun's  tomb,  tomb  of  the  poet  Khusroo,  memorial  col- 
umn on  the  ridge  and  Kootub  Minar,  the  iron  pillar,  tomb 
of  Toogluck  Shah,  Feroz  Shah's  Lat,  and  many  other  inter- 
esting objects  of  study. 

The  old  Dilli,  Dilu,  or  Dhilu,  appears  to  have  been  built 
in  the  year  57  B.C.  The  iron  shaft  that  stands  near  Koo- 
tub column  bears  the  date  of  319  A.D.  This  is  all  of  the 
old  city  remaining. 

The  Hindoo  kings  reigned  in  Delhi  until  the  eleventh 
century.  Then  came  the  conquest  of  the  Mohammedans, 
and  four  hundred  years  later  the  Moguls,  who  were  also 
Mohammedans.  Feroz  Shah,  Toogluck  Shah,  Baber,  and 
Humayun  were  among  the  most  brilliant  and  cruel  of  their 
19 


290  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

sovereigns  in  those  days.  These  were  succeeded  by  Akbar, 
his  son  Jehangire,  and  grandson  Shah  Jehan,  the  ablest  as 
well  as  most  beloved  prince  who  ever  ru4ed  India.  The 
Moguls  alternated  their  capitals  between  Agra  and  Delhi, 
which  were  the  seats  of  their  power. 

Agra  was  named  in  honor  of  Akbar,  who  built  its  splen- 
did fort  and  left  magnificent  palaces  and  mosques  to  com- 
memorate his  brilliant  reign.  He  was  a  prince  of  simple 
taste,  of  generous  impulses,  and  spotless  character,  for  no 
dark  deeds  overshadowed  his  throne.  In  1605  this  great 
sovereign  breathed  his  last.  "  He  allowed  perfect  toleration 
in  religious  matters,  for  his  own  idea  of  religion  seems  to 
have  been  comprised  in  this :  There  was  but  one  God,  and 
Akbar  was  his  Caliph."  He  allowed  the  Hindoo  widows 
to  marry  again,  and  prohibited  suttees  under  certain  restric- 
tions. Like  his  grandfather,  Baber,  he  was  a  great  eques- 
trian. He  once  rode  from  Agra  to  Ajmere,  two  hundred 
and  twenty  miles,  in  two  successive  days. 

A  vast  empire  was  left  his  successors,  and  no  one  ap- 
peared to  have  developed  and  consolidated  it  so  thoroughly 
as  his  illustrious  grandson,  Shah  Jehan,  who  built  the  pres- 
ent city  of  Delhi  on  the  most  magnificent  scale.  His  great 
ambition  was  to  build  tombs,  baths,  musjids,  and  palaces. 
He  adorned  them  with  the  most  elaborate  designs  and  fin- 
ish. Those  most  celebrated  are  inside  the  Fort,  which  is 
within  the  city  wall.  It  was  always  the  custom  to  protect 
the  royal  palace  in  this  manner,  hence  every  king  lived  in- 
side a  fort  defended  by  his  soldiers.  We  may  mention  the 
halls  of  private  and  public  audience,  the  bath-houses,  and 
his  own  apartments ;  the  Pearl  Mosque,  the  Taj  Mahal,  and 
Peacock  Throne.  We  can  well  imagine  their  splendor  and 
magnificence  before  they  were  despoiled  of  their  treasures 
under  Nadir  Shah  in  1739.  This  tyrannical  raider  was  a 
veritable  carpet-bagger.  He  carried  away  no  less  than 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital  291 

$150,000,000  of  gold,  silver  ornaments,  and  diamonds  from 
the  Peacock  Throne  and  other  public  buildings.  What  an 
imposing  spectacle  must  have  been  presented  once  in  the 
Hall  of  Public  Audience,  in  front  of  this  gorgeous  throne, 
raised  eight  to  ten  feet  above  the  pavement — the  seat  of 
administered  justice  and  royal  jurisdiction!  A  few  feet 
below  sat  the  ministers  of  State,  and  still  lower  was  the 
pavement,  above  which  rose  an  arched  roof  resting  on  sand- 
stone pillars  and  arches  of  strange  architecture,  the  entire 
space  below  forming  an  open  court. 

Close  by,  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  is  the  Hall  of  Pri- 
vate Audience — a  marble  hall,  open  on  all  sides  except  on 
the  side  fronting  the  river,  where  there  is  some  marble 
screen-work,  with  openings  filled  with  octagonal  pieces  of 
glass.  Here,  on  a  marble  platform,  once  stood  the  famous 
"  Peacock  Throne."  This  throne  is  said  to  have  rested  on 
six  immense  feet  of  solid  gold,  inlaid- with  diamonds,  rubies, 
and  emeralds.  The  canopy  overhead,  fringed  with  pearls, 
was  of  gold,  whose  golden  pillars  glittered  with  gems.  The 
throne  received  its  name  from  two  peacocks — made  entirely 
of  gold,  inlaid  with  gorgeous  precious  stones,  so  as  to  repre- 
sent life — which  were  placed  behind  the  throne.  A  French- 
man, Austin  de  Bordeaux,  who  fled  from  Europe  after  hav- 
ing stolen  jewels  from  some  princes,  planned  and  executed 
the  whole  of  this  marvelous  creation.  Its  estimated  value 
alone  was  sixty  million  rupees.  It  was  built  about  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty-eight  years  ago,  and  is  as  beautiful  to-day 
as  eyer.  It  lises  from  an  elevated  marble  terrace,  with 
marble  columns  supporting  the  roof,  inlaid  with  precious 
stones,  representations  of  beautiful  flowers,  while  the  ceil- 
ing was  once  covered  with  exquisite  designs  of  silver  and 
gold.  What  impress  us  most  are  the  massive  columns 
connecting  the  arches,  all  of  marble,  and  carved  in  the 
most  elaborate  manner.  "If  there  is  a  paradise  on  earth 


292  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


it  is  this,"  is  still  plainly  carved  on  the  walls  in  several 
places. 

Close  to  the  palace  is  the  Pearl  Mosque,  where  the  im- 
perial family  worshiped.  The  exterior  is  of  red  sand- 
stone, but  the  interior  is  all  of  purest  white  marble.  The 
steps,  court,  and  raised  platform  are  all  of  the  same  ma- 
terial. Up  these  step's  once  the  Mogul  emperors  went  to 
offer  their  prayers,  facing  Mecca  to  the  west.  Here,  as 
elsewhere,  I  saw  many  pretty  designs  in  flowers,  which  were 
carved  by  Hindoo  sculptors,  whom  the  Mohammedans  em- 
ployed to  do  this  intricate  work.  The  splendid  baths,  a  few 
steps  away,  are  of  marble  too,  filled  and  emptied  at  pleas- 
ure. No  wonder,  with  all  this  display  of  Oriental  magnifi- 
cence, the  Moguls  were  impressed  with  the  grandeur  of  such 
scenes. 

As  I  drove  out  the  Delhi  gate  under  the  cool  shades  of 
venerable  trees,  a  short  distance  brought  us  in  front  of  the 
Jumma  Musjid.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  fa- 
mous mosques  in  the  world.  This  splendid  structure  was 
also  erected  by  Shah  Jehan,  who  built  the  fort  and  the  pal- 
ace. These  mosques  are  always  open  in  front,  the  roof 
generally  being  supported  by  massive  columns.  We  ascend 
a  lofty  flight  of  stone  steps  to  an  elevated  terrace,  or  plat- 
form, of  red  stone,  called  a  court,  thirty  feet  high,  capable 
of  accommodating  a  vast  concourse  of  worshipers.  It  is 
more  than  one  hundred  yards  square,  with  colonnades  of 
sandstone  on  three  sides.  The  immense  mosque,  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet  broad,  with  large  mtrble  domes,  oc- 
cupies the  west  side.  In  the  center  I  noticed  a  marble 
reservoir,  where  the  faithful  always  washed  their  hands  be- 
fore prayer,  and  sun-dials  indicating  the  hours  for  prayer. 
In  the  north-east  corner  of  the  platform  I  could  have  seen 
a  hair  of  the  prophet's  beard  and  one  of  his  shoes,  for  a 
small  consideration.  I  ascended  one  of  its  lofty  minarets, 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital  293 

one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high,  made  of  red  sandstone 
and  marble,  alternating  in  vertical  strips,  and  enjoyed  a 
panorama  never  to  be  forgotten.  Here  the  muezzin  for- 
merly called  to  prayer.  Below  my  feet  was  Delhi,  envel- 
oped in  dense  foliage ;  to  the  east  threaded  the  silver  Jumna 
in  its  rneanderings  to  the  Ganges ;  eleven  miles  to  the  south, 
over  a  vast  expanse  of  ruined  cities,  rose  the  Kootub  Mi- 
nar,  the  loftiest  column  in  the  world.  Wherever  my  eyes 
turned  there  were  ruins — old  forts,  arches,  and  fallen  walls. 
Every  king,  in  building  a  city,  built  for  himself  and  family 
a  tomb,  some  of  them  costing  fabulous  sums.  Their  marble 
domes  rise  all  over  this  scene  of  melancholy  desolation.  I 
stood  in  silence  gazing  for  a  moment  on  a  monument  north 
of  us  that  commemorates  the  capture  of  Delhi.  It  rises  on 
a  ridge  twelve  hundred  yards  distant,  from  which  the  in- 
vincible troops  of  the  English  army  began 'their  bombard- 
ment on  the  doomed  city  in  1857.  I  can  see,  in  imagina- 
tion, the  intrepid  Nicholson  and  the  gallant  Wilson  charging 
across  the  intervening  plain  under  the  deadly  fire  of  the  Se- 
poy troops,  who  were  intrenched  in  the  fort  and  on  the  par- 
apets of  the  city  wall.  The  reckless  bravery  of  the  English 
soldiers  sent  them  charging  up  to  the  very  gates — seven 
thousand  English  against  sixty  thousand  Sepoys.  With 
fifty  pieces  of  artillery  the  British  poured  a  storm  of  leaden 
hail  upon  the  doomed  city,  first  at  Ludlow  Castle  and  then  at 
the  Cashmere  Bastion.  A  few  months  before  they  had  been 
beautifying  Delhi,  but  now,  through  the  treachery  of  the 
Bengal  army,  they  were  forced  to  destroy  all  they  had  done. 
Nearer  and  closer  did  the  besieging  army  approach  under 
their  gallant  commander,  the  dauntless  Gen.  Nicholson, 
who  blew  up  the  massive  gates  of  Lahore  and  Cashmere, 
and  with  his  valiant  soldiers  rushed  across  the  breach  into 
the  jaws  of  death.  The  gallant  hero  was  brought  back 
mortally  wounded,  and  nearly  the  last  of  his  men  had  per- 


294  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ished.  Undismayed,  the  British  rallied  and  swept  the 
streets  of  Delhi,  before  whose  storming  columns  the  native 
troops  fled  in  the  wildest  confusion.  The  English  flag  once 
more  floated  in  triumph  over  the  Mogul  capital.  The  war 
was  ended. 

Such  is  a  brief  account  of  that  fearful  struggle,  and  with 
it  seems  departed  the  glories  of  Chandni  Chouk,  that  once 
gorgeous  avenue  that  stretches  down  before  me  to  the  La- 
hore gate.  The  gaudy  pomp  of  those  old  times  may  never 
meet  the  eye  again.  The  shops  are  not  so  brilliant,  nor  do 
we  see  any  more  those  throngs  of  richly  dressed  natives 
riding  on  caparisoned  horses,  lounging  on  their  elephants, 
or  borne  along  in  party-colored  palanquins.  If  the  scenes 
are  not  so  picturesque  as  formerly,  the  British  no  longer 
fear  the  treachery  of  Bahadoor  Shah,  Delhi's  traitor,  whose 
court  had  recently  plunged  his  unhappy  people  into  that 
bloody  struggle. 

In  wild  amazement  we  stroll  along  the  streets,  whose  lit- 
tle shops  glitter  with  their  gorgeous  contents  of  silver-ware 
and  jewelry.  The  bazaars,  too,  showed  their  wealth  of 
golden  fruit — delicious  plums  and  cherries.  How  self-pos- 
sessed sit  the  natives,  cross-legged,  in  their  little  stalls  smok- 
ing small  and  large  cocoa-nut  pipes,  or  chatting  merrily  in 
turbaned  heads  and  flowing  robes!  They  cook,  eat,  and 
sew  in  this  sitting  posture.  They  grind  their  gram,  work 
in  shoe  and  blacksmith  shops,  paint  and  sculpture,  as  their 
ancestors  had  done  for  thousands  of  years  before.  I  saw 
six  pretty  maidens  sitting  in  rows  by  hand  grinding  the 
wheat  with  little  stones,  from  which  the  flour  did  flow. 
The  mill  is  simply  two  round  stones,  one  placed  upon  the 
other,  two  or  three  inches  thick  and  about  fifteen  inches  in 
diameter.  In  the  upper  stone  a  hole  is  drilled  on  one  side, 
into  which  a  wooden  handle  is  driven,  and  another  hole  in 
the  center,  through  which  the  grain  passes,  and  is  ground 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital. 


295 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


by  turning  the  upper  stone  upon  the  lower.  As  illustrated 
in  the  picture,  the  women  sit  opposite  each  other  on  a  mat, 
with  a  cloth  spread  under  the  mill,  upon  which  the  flour 
falls.  After  the  grinding  is  finished  they  separate  the  chaff 
from  the  flour,  then  the  coarse  flour  from  the  fine,  by  the 
use  of  a  large  fan  made  of  bamboo-splints,  in  shape  much 
like  a  dust-pan,  but  having  no  handle.  It  requires  much 
practice  to  separate  the  flour,  which  is  done  by  a  peculiar 
shake  of  the  fan.  Here  in  these  little  rooms  of  Delhi 
Cashmere's  fadeless  shawls  are  woven — peerless  beauties  of 
snowy  wool  from  Cashmere's  vale  and  rugged  mountains. 
Charming  embroideries,  so  deftly  made  by  hand,  and  fringes 
as  soft  as  ermine,  the  fruits  of  patient  care.  Sometimes 
months,  and  even  years,  are  devoted  to  the  production  of  a 
single  shawl.  The  work  is  all  done  by  men,  who  may  be 
seen  in  the  little  stalls  or  niches,  as  I  have  described,  work- 
ing with  the  loom  and  needle  through  ceaseless  hours  of 
toil.  The  women  in  Delhi,  like  their  sisters  in  Egypt  and 
Palestine,  are  the  beasts  of  burden  laboring  in  the  fields, 
making  brick  and  bearing  mortar  on  their  heads  to  build 
the  houses  of  India. 

I  have  observed  our  hotel  is  called  a  dak  bungalow,  a  part 
of  the  magazine  the  English  blew  up  in  1857.  It  is  also  a 
part  of  the  post-office  building.  I  felt  like  exploding  my 
guide,  who  had  attempted  to  show  me  Delhi  the  day  before, 
but  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English.  He  made  any 
number  of  comical  gestures,  and  I  supposed  the  rest. 

After  an  early  breakfast,  we  drive  out  the  walls  through 
the  Delhi  gate,  southward,  to  view  the  ruined  cities  of  the 
once  proud  Mohammedan  and  Mogul  kings.  It  is  fright- 
fully dusty;  it  has  not  rained  since  last  fall,  and  a  stiff 
north-west  wind  is  driving  an  insufferable  cloud  of  the  finest 
black  dirt  into  my  face.  We  have  a  front  man,  a  hind  man, 
a  boy  to  open  the  door,  one  to  provide  water,  a  runner,  and  a 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital. 


297 


SCENE  US  DELHI. 


valet.  I  had  not  employed  one  of  them,  except  the  driver, 
with  his  carriage.  I  was  not  accustomed  to  so  much  style. 
Just  outside  the  Delhi  gate,  on  a  slightly  elevated  ridge,  we 
stopped  to  examine  a  pillar  called  Feroz  Shah's  Lat,  erected 
in  the  third  century  before  Christ.  It  is  an  object  of  the 


298  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

most  curious  interest.  According  to  Gen.  Cunningham,  its 
height  is  forty-two  feet  seven  inches,  a  single  shaft  of  pale 
sandstone.  It  is  about  three  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base  and 
two  feet  at  the  summit.  On  the  upper  portion  of  the  pillar 
I  noticed  a  very  smooth,  high  polish,  on  which  are  inscribed 
the  records  of  pilgrims  from  the  first  century  of  the  Chris- 
tian era  to  the  present  time.  The  golden  pinnacle  from  the 
top  has  long  since  disappeared,  but  was  seen  as  late  as  1611. 
The  oldest  inscriptions  date  back  300  B.C.,  comprising  the 
well-known  edicts  of  King  Asoka,  "  whoever  he  was,"  in  the 
Pali  language.  The  alphabetical  characters  are  the  oldest 
yet  found  in  India,  and  are  still  distinctly  marked  on  the 
column.  Only  a  few  have  crumbled  off  the  surface.  The 
guide-book  says  there  were  two  more  ordered  by  this  king 
to  be  set  up  in  other  parts  of  India.  On  all  of  these  ap- 
pears this  inscription :  "  Let  this  religious  edict  be  engraved 
on  stone  pillars  and  stone  tablets  that  it  may  endure  for- 
ever. (Gen.  Cunningham.) 

Ferozabad  is  the  name  of  the  city  that  once  surrounded 
this  pillar,  and  its  old  walls  can  yet  be  traced.  It  was  com- 
menced in  1354,  by  Feroz  Shah,  and  contained  about  150,000 
inhabitants.  There  is  a  curious  story  told  about  its  subter- 
ranean passages  and  chambers  that  had  outlets  in  the  river 
Jumna.  In  these  the  king  was  accustomed  to  conceal  him- 
self sometimes  with  his  valuables.  A  little  farther  on  we 
behold  Sufter  Jung's  tomb,  that  is  said  to  be  conspicuous  as 
a  model  of  the  Taj  at  Agra. 

We  pass  rapidly  from  the  ruins  of  one  old  city  through 
another,  with  old  forts  and  citadels,  several  miles  apart, 
coming  to  Purana  Keela.  This  is  the  locality  upon  which, 
it  is  said,  rested  a  city  three  thousand  years  ago.  The  little 
mosque  of  Keela  Kona,  commenced  by  the  Emperor  Huma- 
yun  in  1540,  presents  a  fine  specimen  of  the  architecture  of 
the  Afghan  period.  The  interior  is  beautifully  decorated 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital  299 

with  blue  tiles  and  marble,  blended  in  fine  horseshoe  arches 
of  exquisite  beauty. 

About  four  miles  from  Delhi  I  approached  the  Emperor 
Humayun's  tomb,  through  a  grand  avenue  of  trees,  planted 
there  by  command  of  his  widow,  who  also  erected  this  mag- 
nificent mausoleum  to  his  memory.  Its  splendid  dome 
dominates  the  whole  landscape.  It  is  built  of  the  purest 
white  marble,  and  rests  upon  an  immense  building  of  red 
sandstone,  richly  inlaid  with  ornaments  of  the  same  mate- 
rial. After  the  fall  of  Delhi,  the  last  of  the  Mogul  em- 
perors sought  refuge  here,  but  was  captured  and  exiled  to 
Burmah,  where  he  has  since  died.  I  ascended  a  flight  of 
steps  that  led  me  to  the  second  terrace,  probably  twenty- 
two  feet  high  and  thirty  yards  broad,  from  which  rose  in 
majestic  grandeur  this  magnificent  building.  The  eventful 
life  of  this  unfortunate  man,  his  great  sufferings  and  trials, 
show7  how  uneasy  lies  the  head  of  the  king.  Driven  by 
Shir  Shah  from  his  kingdom  to  Persia,  an  exile,  he  subse- 
quently seized  Candahar  and  finally  recovered  his  domin- 
ions. But  six  months  later  he  met  his  death  by  a  fall  from 
his  library,  where  he  had  been  absorbed  in  reading.  Hear- 
ing a  call  .to  prayer,  he  started  quickly  up  a  flight  of  stairs, 
and  losing  his  foothold  he  died  a  few  days  after  from  his 
injuries.  The  steps  are  still  very  difficult  to  ascend.  He 
was  succeeded  by  his  son  Akbar,  one  of  the  most  brilliant 
sovereigns  of  India. 

But  when  all  these  kings,  amid  their  pomp  and  pride,  are 
forgotten,  and  their  splendid  tombs  have  crumbled  into  dust, 
India  will  live  in  the  verses  and  songs  of  her  poet  Khusroo. 
Even  the  great  Toogluck  Shah,  five  hundred  years  ago, 
hung  in  rapture  on  his  name  and  caught  the  inspiration  of 
his  soul.  His  tomb  is  close  by  the  side  of  his  contemporary, 
Nizam-Oodee,  erected  in  A.D.  1305.  What  a  wilderness 


300  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  tombs  our  road  has  led  us  through  since  leaving  Delhi — 
"monuments  of  dead  men  and  dead  empires! " 

Arriving  at  the  Kootub,  we  stand  for  a  moment  gazing 
at  this  stupendous  column.  It  is  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
eight  feet  one  inch  above  the  ground — said  to  be  the  tallest 
shaft  in  the  world.  The  approach  to  it  is  very  grand.  All 
around  its  base  are  scattered  the  remains  of  temples,  arches, 
walls,  and  most  magnificent  ruins.  It  marks  one  of  the  sites 
of  Delhi.  Near  by  are  the  ruins  of  a  mosque,  built  entirely 
of  twenty-seven  Hindoo  temples,  which  the  Mohammedans 
pulled  down  for  the  purpose.  I  noticed  in  some  of  the 
arches  still  standing  that  rich  profusion  of  deep  carvings 
that  distinguished  the  magnificence  of  the  Hindoo  temples. 
A  plain  stone  is  joined  to  a  carved  stone,  and  there  seems 
to  have  been  no  relation  or  reference  to  the  original  designs. 
I  saw  many  monkeys  and  birds  beautifully  carved  on  the 
pillars  of  this  old  edifice.  Over  one  door-way  they  were 
especially  profuse  and  full  of  interesting  study.  In  the 
center  of  the  open  court  of  this  roofless  old  mosque  stands 
an  iron  pillar  twenty  feet  or  more  above  the  ground  and 
still  deeper  below  the  surface  of  the  paved  court.  It  is 
about  one  foot  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  is  covered  with 
old  inscriptions,  one  of  them  bearing  the  name  of  the  Hin- 
doo king  who  erected  it,  A.D.  319.  There  is  a  curious 
legend  that  connects  it  with  the  reign  of  the  king.  The 
Brahmans  had  advised  him  to  sink  the  iron  shaft  until  it 
should  crush  the  head  of  the  snake  god,  Lishay,  which,  it 
was  said,  the  world  rested  upon.  The  Brahmans  directed 
how  it  should  be  done.  The  Rajah  wanted  to  see  the  snake 
fixed  himself,  so  he  could  not  wriggle  with  his  kingdom.  He 
dug  up  the  pillar — so  the  story  goes — and  while  he  saw  some 
signs  of  blood,  he  lost  his  kingdom.  His  death  was  the  end 
of  Hindoo  rule  in  India. 

I  saw  Aladdin's  gate-way  and  Adham's  tomb — not  Mark 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital  301 

Twain's  deceased  relative,  but  Adham  Khans.  Beyond  is 
Fort  Lalkot,  over  two  miles  in  circumference,  whose  mass- 
ive walls  of  stone  I  traced  for  some  distance.  There  was 
another  old  fort  and  city  close  by,  with  a  little  knot  of  na- 
tives living  in  it.  They  jabber  at  you  as  if  they  expected 
you  to  understand  every  word  they  say.  They  are  all  after 
backshish,  and  presently  you  will  observe  one  disappear  from 
the  side  of  a  wall.  You  hurry  up  to  see  what  has  become 
of  him.  It  is  a  large  tank,  or  well,  eighty  feet  deep,  down 
which  he  goes  whizzing,  feet  foremost.  Then  climbing  up  a 
terraced  wall,  he  makes  the  frightful  leap  again.  Just  before 
reaching  the  bottom  he  draws  his  legs  together,  and  disap- 
pearing beneath  the  water  for  a  moment,  swims  toward  you 
with  outstretched  hands  for  backshish.  I  was  in  hopes  this 
word  had  become  obsolete  since  leaving  Palestine,  but  I  rec- 
ognize it  constantly  in  different  languages. 

The  dak  bungalow  is  an  institution  of  India.  These 
hotels,  kept  by  the  natives,  are  provided  by  the  Government 
for  the  accommodation  of  travelers.  There  is  a  very  good 
one  at  the  foot  of  the  Kootub,  where  I  could  spend  the 
night,  with  excellent  accommodations.  But  I  must  hurry 
up  to  the  summit  and  get  a  view  of  the  Jumna  before  I 
return  to  Delhi. 

The  ascent  is  made  by  three  hundred  and  seventy-nine 
stone  steps  from  the  interior.  "  The  diameter  of  the  base  is 
forty-seven  £eet,  being  six  stories  high  and  fluted  in  the 
lower  stories.  In  some  stories  the  flutes  are  all  circular,  in 
others  all  angular,  and  in  one  they  are  alternately  circular 
and  angular.  The  column  is  just  five  diameters  in  height. 
The  circumference  of  the  base  is  equal  to  the  sum  of  the 
diameter  of  the  six  stories." 

The  history  of  Kootub  is  involved  in  some  obscurity. 
Its  early  origin  was  probably  Hindoo;  but  it  appears  to 
have  been  finished  by  the  Mohammedans  in  1236.  The 


302 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


architect  bears  an  outlandish  name,  which  I  would  like  to 
call  Patrick  Henry,  but  I  can't.  It  was  Mister  Shumsh- 
ooden  Altomsh — there  now! 

I  noticed  at  the  bottom  of  the  column  a  belt  of  black 
stone,  which  runs  around ;  and  at  the  top  two  belts  of  mar- 


THE   KOOTUB  MINAR. 


ble,  some  verses  of  the  Koran,  and  ninety-nine  names 
(Arabic)  of  God,  the  praises  of  its  "builder,  date  of  comple- 
tion, prayers  on  Friday,  etc.,  are  rec^rdod  in  inscriptions. 
It  was  probably  erected  for  some  religious  purpose.  A 
pretty  Hindoo  legend  tells  us  that  the  Kajah  Pith  or  a  built 


Delhi,  the  Old  Mogul  Capital  303 

this  pillar  for  his  daughter,  that  she  might  ascend  it  every 
morning  to  behold  the  rising  of  the  sim  over  the  beautiful 
Jumna.  From  its  lofty  summit  the  view  is  grand  beyond 
description.  Descending,  we  return  to  Delhi,  a  part  of  the 
way  by  a  different  road. 

I  forgot  to  pay  a  deserved  tribute  to  the  humble,  grass- 
covered  grave  of  Jehanara.  She  was  the  devoted  daughter 
of  Shah  Jehan,  who  preferred  to  share  the  fate  of  her  unfort- 
unate but  illustrious  father  to  enjoying  the  splendors  of 
Aurungzib's  court.  This  ambitious  and  unscrupulous  young 
prince  had  deposed  his  father,  defeated  and  put  to  death 
the  heir-apparent,  Dara  Sheko,  his  older  brother,  and  then 
invited  his  sister  to  his  court.  Jehanara  was  a  princess 
adorned  with  every  virtue  a  woman  could  possess.  It  is 
said  she  composed  a  part  of  the  following  inscription  on  her 
tomb:  "Let  no  rich  canopy  cover  my  grave;  this  grass 'is 
the  best  covering  for  the  poor  in  spirit.  The  humble,  the 
transitory  Jehanara,  the  disciple  of  the  holy  men  of  Christ 
the  daughter  of  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan."  Her  father  was 
deposed  in  1658,  and  lived  seven  years  after.  He  built  the 
most  famous  buildings  in  all  India,  including  the  Palace  and 
Musjid  at  Delhi  and  Taj  at  Agra. 

Just  before  reaching  Delhi,  about  two  miles  to  the  right 
on  the  Kootub  road,  I  stopped  to  inspect  the  magnificent 
ruins  of  the  Juuter  Munter,  or  Astronomical  Observatory. 
These  ruins  consist  of  several  stone  buildings,  representing 
sun-dials,  and  an  equatorial  dial  of  the  grandest  propor- 
tions. There  were  two  circular  buildings,  with  a  pillar  in 
each  center,  open  at  the  top.  From  these  pillars,  at  the 
bottom,  were  drawn  horizontal  radii  of  stone,  which,  being 
graduated  or  calculated,  made  a  complete  circle  of  three 
hundred  and  sixty  degrees.  There  were  tangents  of  the 
sun's  altitude  marked  in  degrees,  as  shown  by  the  shadow 
of  the  pillar,  numbering  one  to  forty-five  degrees.  Th^ 


304  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

comparative  observations  of  these  two  buildings,  being  ex 
actly  alike,  were  always  corrected  by  each  other's  time. 
The  Delhi  gate  faces  the  whole  area  of  splendid  ruins  to  the 
south  we  have  attempted  to  describe.  We  were  surprised 
to  find  no  elephants  and  but  few  camels,  these  being  used  in 
the  Government  service.  I  met  a  number  of  splendid  ox- 
wagons,  "  regular  double-deckers,"  crowded  above  and  below 
with  numerous  families.  Some  of  the  bright-eyed  Hindoo 
girls  were  quite  pretty.  The  oxen  were  of  immense  size, 
perfectly  white,  as  sleek  and  fat  as  they  could  be.  They 
carry  the  draft  from  the  top  of  their  necks,  the  bow  being 
tied  or  attached  to  the  horns.  They  are  tattooed  in  fanciful 
designs.  A  bullock  in  India  is  a  gorgeous  institution.  The 
Texas  and  Florida  cow-boys  can  learn  something  here  about 
branding  as  an  art.  It  exceeds  the  best  fresco-painting  the 
donkey-boys  do  about  Cairo.  Visiting  a  museum  of  natu- 
ral history,  after  entering  the  city,  we  soon  arrived  at  our 
dak  bungalow.  I  felt  like  a  ruin  myself,  after  such  fatigue. 
From  irrigated  gardens  we  enjoy  the  finest  vegetables, 
with  abundance  of  eggs  and  poultry.  Delhi  being  in  twenty- 
eight  degrees  north  latitude,  we  have  tropical  and  semi-trop- 
ical fruits,  among  the  number  the  Japanese  plum  I  have  seen 
growing  in  Savannah. 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

FROM  DELHI  TO  CASHMERE,  SIMLA,  AND  RETURN. 

T^EFORE  leaving  Delhi  for  Agra,  let  us  glance  at  this 
-D  Punjab  or  north-west  region  of  India.  It  is  one  of  the 
great  wheat-producing  provinces  of  the  Empire,  where  the 
grain  is  irrigated  from  wells,  catchment  basins,  and  canals, 
which  we  will  notice  again  in  our  chapter  on  farming  in 
India.  There  are  some  wonderful  places  and  scenes  to  be 
visited  in  this  marvelous  region. 


The  Vale  of  Cashmere  and  Simla.  305 

Close  by  is  a  mountain  of  elastic  stone,  from  which  I 
brought  some  specimens  that  bend  between  my  fingers.  It 
appears  to  be  a  kind  of  sandstone.  To  the  north-west  rise 
the  lofty  Himalayas.  Up  in  that  region  we  hear  of  a  peo- 
ple who  pray  by  machinery,  some  by  water-power  and  oth- 
ers by  hand.  These  latter  are  called  prayer-wheels,  which 


PRAYING  BY  HAND. 

contain  strips  of  parchment,  or  paper,  on  which  the  prayers 
are  written!  They  swing  the  little  wheel,  or  rattle,  which 
answers  the  purpose  of  prayer  just  as  the  counting  of  beads 
among  the  Buddhists  or  Catholics  in  their  devotions. 

It  is  four  hundred  miles  or  more  to  the  beautiful  Vale  of 
Cashmere,  and  three  hundred  and  forty-eight  miles  from 
Delhi  to  Lahore,  the  chief  city  of  the  Punjab.  These  two 
cities  are  connected  now  by  the  Punjab  State  and  Scinde 
Railroad.  At  Rowal  Pindi,  on  this  line,  we  take  a  dak,  or 
pony,  for  Srinagar,  by  way  of  Murree.  Permission  must 
be  obtained  from  the  Maharajah  to  visit  the  territory,  as  only 
a  certain  number  of  visitors  are  allowed  each  year.  From 
Gujrat,  a  station  on  the  same  road,  seventy-one  miles  from 
Lahore,  we  may  reach  Srinagar,  the  capital  of  Cashmere,  in 
20 


306  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

one  hundred  and  seventy-five  and  one-half  miles.  This 
whole  frontier  presents  the  wildest  and  most  picturesque 
scenery,  with  the  snow-clad  Himalayas  always  in  sight. 

The  baggage  is  all  carried  on  the  backs  of  ponies,  mules, 
and  coolies.     The  regulations  say  the  coolie's  load  shall  not 
exceed  twenty-five  seers.     It  is  particularly  desired  "the 
authorities  shall  see  that  coolies  and  cattle  are  not  over- 
loaded, and  that  the  former  shall  be  paid  daily  in  the  pres- 
ence of  travelers."     The  coolies,  I  have  told  you,  are  the 
lowest  caste  of  the  Hindoos.     Here  they  are  beasts  of  bur- 
den.    Away  up  in  these  mountains  we  see  many  wild  goats, 
with  long  wool  or  hair,  but  are  not  allowed  to  shoot  them. 
The  fleece  is  soft  and  silky,  dropping  nearly  to  the  ground. 
I  saw  one  of  the  sheep  that  was  a  marvel  of  beauty.     This 
region  is  seven  to  twelve  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  where 
these  wild  goats  and  sheep  abound.     There  are  also  immense 
flocks  domesticated  for  growing  wool  that  is  manufactured 
in  Srinagar,  but  principally  at  Delhi,  into  most  exquisite 
shawls.     It  was  from  this  region  a  gentleman  in  South  Car- 
olina and  Col.  Richard  Peters,  of  Atlanta,  Ga.,  made  their 
importations  some  years  ago.     In  those  days  these  beautiful 
animals  were  carried  on  mule-backs  fifteen  hundred  miles  to 
Bombay,  thence  by  steamer  to  New  York.     Now  they  can  be 
transported  nearly  all  the  way  to  the  sea-coast  by  railroad. 
The  world-famed  Vale  of  Cashmere  lies  beneath  the  eter- 
nal snows  of  the  Himalayas.     Sometimes  the  most  frightful 
earthquakes  are  felt,  and  destroy  entire  villages.     From  Sri- 
nagar you  can  go  across  the  hills,  or  mountains,  to  Simla ; 
nearer  by  Delhi,  being  only  two  hundred  and  forty  miles 
distant.     It  is  easily  made  from  Umbulla  station,  on  the 
same  railroad,  by  easy  stages,  across  the  country,  only  sev- 
enty-nine miles  distant.     You  can  have  choice  of  a  tonga, 
a  jhampan,  or  saddle  pony,  to  Simla.     The  road  is  very 
rugged  for  gharries.     A  tonga  is  an  institution  of  India.     It 


From  Delhi  to  Benares.  307 

is  a  light  vehicle  for  two  or  four  persons,  drawn  by  a  pair 
of  ponies,  yoked  up  like  oxen.  It  requires  about  three 
days  from  Ambulla  to  reach  Simla,  which  is  situated  seven 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level,  on  a  spur  of  the  Central 
Himalaya.  It  is  a  great  summer-resort  during  the  hot  sea- 
son, from  April  to  October.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  the  Gen- 
eral Government  during  this  period.  It  was  first  estab- 
lished, after  the  Gurkha  war  in  1815,  by  Lord  Amherst,  who 
resided  here  first,  eleven  years  later.  Beautiful  rhododen- 
drons, oak,  and  forest  of  cedar  cover  the  east  peak  of  Jako, 
eight  thousand  feet  high.  A  road  runs  around  its  base. 
The  English  command  the  whole  country  by  a  battery  of 
artillery,  planted  on  one  of  these  lofty  peaks.  This  is  one 
of  the  many  interesting  excursions  that  can  be  made  from 
Delhi. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

FROM  DELHI  TO  BENARES  BY  AGRA,  CAWNPORE,  AND 
ALLAHABAD. 

IT  was  late  at  night  before  I  left  Delhi  for  Agra,  a  run  of 
one  hundred  and  eleven  miles,  or  four  hours,  by  the  East 
India  Railroad.  We  start  now  from  North-west  India  through 
the  Central  Provinces  on  our  long  journey  down  the  Valley 
of  the  Ganges  to  Calcutta.  It  is  about  one  thousand  miles, 
without  change,  by  the  express ;  but  we  are  to  stop  off  at 
Agra  and  other  places.  We  had  employed  several  hours  at 
the  dak  bungalow,  before  our  departure,  in  making  purchases 
and  some  necessary  preparations  for  the  journey. 

I  wanted  a  Cashmere  shawl.  Everybody  buys  a  shawl, 
I  believe,  before  leaving  Delhi.  I  had  no  particular  use 
for  such  a  luxurious  garment;  but  then  it  was  fashionable, 
and  I  might  be  asked  a  thousand  times  if  I  had  purchased 
one.  A  Jew  is  a  full  match  for  a  Hindoo.  I  saw  these 


308  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

two  genus  homos  meet  in  my  bungalow.  The  Hindoo,  Mr. 
Chant,  spread  his  gorgeous  stock  on  the  floor  and  then  as- 
Bumed  a  sitting  posture,  cross-legged,  ready  for  business.  I 
had  retained  the  valuable  services  of  my  Rajputana  com- 
panion to  negotiate  the  sale.  I  did  not  wish  to  be  thrown 
into  bankruptcy  so  far  away  from  home.  I  sat  a  short  dis- 
tance off  and  watched,  with  deep  interest,  the  preconcerted 
attacks  and  diplomacy  that  the  Jew  and  I  had  arranged  for 
the  occasion.  "What  is  the  price  of  that  shawl?"  inquired 
my  Hebrew  friend.  "One  hundred  rupees,"  replied  the 
Hindoo.  "  Disgusting  prices !  I  shall  not  talk  to  you !  I 
can  buy  the  same  article  for  one-fourth  the  money  you  ask ! " 
Jew  walks  away.  Hindoo  sat  like  a  statue,  perfectly  amazed. 
Presently  the  Jew  returns.  Hindoo  falls  twenty  rupees — 
"A bargain,  master;  very  cheap!"  Jew  offers  thirty.  Hin- 
doo falls  twenty  more.  Jew  decides  not  to  buy  at  all,  but 
retires.  In  half  an  hour  he  came  rushing  back  as  if  get- 
ting ready  to  depart  on  the  train,  and  like  to  have  stumbled 
over  the  merchant.  "  Hey!  not  gone  yet?"  "No,  master. 
You  must  have  this  beautiful  shawl.  Say  nothing  about  it ; 
being  as  it  is  you,  take  it  for  thirty."  Jew  falls  again  to 
twenty  rupees.  "All  right,  master;  you  ruin  me!"  This 
was  one-fifth  the  original  price  asked.  It  is  the  custom  in 
India  to  ask  foreigners  these  exorbitant  figures ;  but  no  one 
understood  this  better  than  my  obliging  friend. 

Arriving  early  the  following  morning  at  Lucies  Hotel,  in 
Agra,  we  enjoyed  a  refreshing  nap  of  sleep  before  break- 
fast. The  Hindoo  merchants  had  heard  of  my  arrival,  and 
a  number  had  gathered  after  daylight  in  front  of  my  lattice 
doors,  with  their  bundles  and  traps  for  display.  They  were 
knocking  gently  at  my  door,  occasionally  casting  sly  glances 
through  the  blinds  to  see  if  I  was  awake.  Every  trade 
except  the  monkey  and  organ-grinder  seemed  to  be  repre- 
sented. Presently  the  barber  rushed  in  and  began  to  shave 


The  Vale  of  Cashmere  and  Simla.  309 

me  in  the  bed.  What  a  luxury!  what  comfort!  I  could 
never  think  of  shaving  in  a  chair  again.  I  was  completely 
demoralized;  perfectly  reckless.  I  turned  over  and  con- 
cluded to  buy  out  those  princely  merchants  sitting  cross- 
legged  before  my  door.  They  had  bullock  horns,  highly 
polished;  stag  horns,  fans,  shawls,  silks,  and  a  numerous 
display  of  small  trifles  for  souvenirs.  The  prices  first  asked 
would  have  startled  Jacob  Astor;  but  as  I  walked  away 
they  kept  falling  and  swarming  around  me  like  a  village 
crowd  at  an  auction.  "Cheap,  master;  a  bargain,  sir!" 
screaming  at  top  of  their  voices.  These  Hindoos  were  all 
colors — black,  brown,  yellow,  and  gingerbread — some  with 
a  cloth  around  their  shoulders  and  loins,  while  the  smaller 
boys  had  nothing  on  worth  mentioning.  They  presented  a 
ludicrous  appearance  as  merchants.  They  looked  pretty 
much  like  a  crowd  of  Georgia  darkies  just  out  of  a  mill- 
pond.  Then  the  Taj  man  came  with  his  snowy  model  of 
that  peerless  creation  of  sculptured  marble.  The  shawl 
man  like  to  have  bowed  me  off  the  sidewalks.  What  a 
pleasure  to  hear  our  language  spoken  again!  Even  the 
waiters  about  the  table  speak  fair  English.  We  enjoy  ex- 
cellent coffee,  mutton-chops,  eggs,  English  bread  and  butter, 
with  plenty  of  delicious  fruits.  Here  we'  have  the  Japan 
plum,  oranges,  bananas,  mangoes,  and  other  fruits  in  season. 
Remember,  there  are  no  winters  nor  summers  proper  in  In- 
dia, but  that  the  year  is  divided  into  the  wet  and  dry  seasons. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  table  sat  a  group  of  young 
Englishmen,  just  from  Australia,  who  were  recounting  the 
incidents  and  adventures  of  a  two  years  voyage  from  home. 
They  were  clever,  jolly  fellows,  but  evidently  belonged  to 
the  "wet  side"  of  the  temperance  question.  It  is  this  feat- 
ure of  English  life  in  India  that  has  compromised  foreigners 
of  all  countries  with  the  natives.  The  Hindoo  does  not 
drink — it  is  against  his  religion.  It  ought  to  be  against  the 


310  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Christian's  as  well.  The  Hindoo  regards  a  drunken  En- 
glishman with  horror.  He  expects  to  be  stirred  up ;  for  the 
English  declare  this  is  the  only  way  "  to  get  along  with  the 


STIRRING  UP   A   HINDOO. 

rascals."  Doubtless,  then,  when  the  Hindoo  hears  an  ale- 
jug  whizzing  by  his  ears  he  becomes  thoroughly  disgusted 
with  our  religion  and  Christian  civilization.  What  a  howl 
of  indignation  would  be  felt  in  the  North  if  we  were  to 
rush  at  our  freedmen  this  way !  Yet  this  Hindoo  has  sprung 
from  the  same  race  we  have. 

Agra  (Akbarabad),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Jum- 
na, was  built  by  Akbar,  the  greatest  of  the  Mogul  kings. 
His  grandfather,  Baber,  was  the  founder  of  the  Mogul 
dynasty.  Many  places  in  India  bear  names  ending  in  abad 
or  pore.  Akbarabad  (the  city  of  Akbar),  Ahmedabad  (the 
city  of  Ahmed),  signifying  who  lived  or  was  born  there. 
Kosh  is  a  mountain;  Hindoo -Kosh,  the  Hindoostaneo 
mountain;  Punjab,  the  five  waters — Ab  meaning  water 
and  Panj  or  Puuj  a  numeral  signifying  five.  Abad  means 


From  Delhi  to  Benares.  311 

the  City  of  Allah  as  well.  All  these  words  belong  to  the 
Afghan  tongue,  but  are  common  throughout  India. 

Akbar,  by  his  conciliatory  policy,  won  the  loyalty  of  his 
Hindoo  subjects  and  built  the  fort  and  palace  here  in  1566. 
By  his  brilliant  reign  of  forty  years  his  grandson,  Shah  Je- 
han,  was  enabled  to  continue  the  building  of  palaces,  mosques, 
tombs,  and  forts,  on  the  most  magnificent  scale,  here  and  at 
Delhi.  He  left  immense  wealth  in  the  public  treasury. 

The  tomb  of  Akbar  is  at  Secundra,  five  miles  from  Agra, 
which  I  did  not  see — now  a  magnificent  ruin.  My  greatest 
desire  was  to  behold  the  world-renowned  Taj,  whose  beauti- 
ful white  marble  dome  is  plainly  visible  many  miles  away. 

Soon  after  breakfast  we  secured  a  gharry,  a  one-horse 
four-wheeler,  for  a  drive  down  a  broad,  clean  avenue,  on 
either  side  of  which  looked  out  elegant  bungalows  from  a 
wealth  of  tropical  plants  and  foliage.  There  were  pretty 
whitewashed  walls  extending  along  the  streets  nearly  to  the 
Taj,  which  rises  majestically  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna, 
one  mile  east  of  Agra.  We  enter  a  massive  gate-way,  itself 
a  splendid  work  of  art,  built  or  sandstone  and  inlaid  with 
marble,  under  an  open  arch  high  above  me,  and  enter  an 
avenue  of  bewildering  beauty.  Down  the  center  plays  a 
long  line  of  fountains,  each  throwing  up  a  single  jet.  On 
both  sides  the  palm,  banyan,  and  feathery  bamboo  mingle 
their  foliage ;  the  songs  of  birds  fill  my  ears,  while  the  odors 
and  perfume  of  roses  and  lemon-blossoms  sweeten  the  air. 
Down  such  a  vista  and  over  such  a  foreground  rises  the 
most  wonderful  building  in  the  world.  Long  before  reach- 
ing India  I  had  heard  of  its  splendor,  its  stately  beauty 
and  costly  magnificence.  I  am  not  disappointed.  Its  his- 
tory is  a  most  interesting  episode  in  the  life  of  the  Emperor 
Shah  Jehan,  who  erected  this  splendid  mausoleum  to  the 
memory  of  his  favorite  wife,  whom  he  called  by  the  pet  name 
of  Taz,  or  Taj.  It  seems  to  have  been  a  custom  among  the 


312  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Tartars,  from  whom  the  Moguls  descended,  to  build  their 
sepulchers  as  palaces  of  enjoyment  while  living;  but  after 
death  as  tombs,  no  longer  to  echo  the  footsteps  of  mirth. 
But  the  Taj  does  not  illustrate  this  theory.  The  faithful 
wife  of  Shah  Jehan  died  before  the  building  was  begun. 
She  had  followed  her  husband  on  the  battle-field,  and  like 
poor  Rachel — whose  tomb  I  saw  near  Bethlehem — she,  too, 
died  in  childbirth.  The  emperor  brought  her  remains  to 
Agra  and  interred  them  in  her  favorite  garden,  and  erected 
over  them  this  the  most  splendid  mausoleum  in  the  world. 
Its  erection  was  begun  in  A.D.  1630,  and  finished  in 
twenty-two  years;  employing  in  its  construction  twenty 
thousand  men,  who  were  forced  to  labor  without  pay,  receiv- 
ing only  a  scanty  allowance  of  corn.  Its  estimated  cost  is 
about  thirty  millions  of  rupees  or  fifteen  millions  of  dollars. 
Were  it  built  now,  its  approximate  cost  would  be  fifty  mill- 
ion dollars.  During  the  building  there  was  a  frightful 
mortality  among  the  men,  which  wrung  tears  from  the  poor 
peasants  around  Agra,  who  cried : 

Have  mercy,  God,  on  our  distress, 
For  we  die,  too,  with  the  empress ! 

Had  I  the  power  and  imagery  of  Bayard  Taylor  I  might 
attempt  a  description  of  the  Taj.  In  airy  gracefulness  and 
faultless  architecture  it  is  well-nigh  perfect.  Whether  seen 
from  a  distant  view  or  near  approach  through  its  magic  ave- 
nue, it  never  fails  to  excite  the  deepest  enthusiasm  in  the  trav- 
eler who  beholds  it.  Rising  in  majestic  beauty  from  an  im- 
mense marble  platform,  or  terrace,  twenty  feet  high  and 
three  hundred  feet  square,  this  marble  mausoleum,  flanked 
by  graceful  minarets  at  each  corner,  stands  alone  without  a 
rival.  From  the  main  building,  which  is  about  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet  square,  rises  a  central  dome,  seventy 
feet  in  diameter  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high. 


From  Delhi  to  Benares.  313 

Below  the  marble  terrace  is  another  of  sandstone,  over  three 
hundred  and  twenty  yards  long,  from  one  end  of  which  rises 
a  sandstone  mosque,  faced  with  marble.  This  is  intended 
as  a  sort  of  resting-place,  or  inn,  for  worshipers  at  a  dis- 
tance. As  Dr.  Hendrix,  in  his  charming  description  of  this 
building,  has  remarked,  it  seems  to  have  been  a  point  in 
some  styles  of  Oriental  architecture  never  to  leave  any  part 
of  a  building  without  something  to  correspond  with  it,  called 
a  "jawab,"  or  answering  to  the  inn  described  above.  The 
central  building  resembles  an  octagon.  The  whole  building, 
with  its  cupolas  and  its  marvelous  white  dome,  is  built  of 
marble.  Numerous  characters  may  be  seen  inside  and  out- 
side the  building,  in  which,  it  is  said,  the  whole  of  the 
Koran  (or  Mohammedan  Bible)  is  inlaid  in  white  and  black 
marble.  Behold  the  Taj  from  any  direction  you  may,  I 
have  yet  to  see  an  object  more  beautiful,  more  ethereal,  than 
its  great  marble  dome,  which,  instead  of  resting  flat  upon 
the  building,  rises  and  swells  into  majestic  proportions  un- 
til it  appears  almost  transparent,  as  a  bubble,  floating 
away  into  a  marvelous  blue  sky,  that  enraptures  my  soul. 
The  height  of  this  stupendous  building  is  three  hundred  and 
twenty-one  feet,  being  taller  than  the  Kootub  column  I  de- 
scribed near  Delhi.  Let  us  now  ascend  a  lofty  flight  of 
marble  steps  to  the  upper  terrace,  or  platform,  and  study  its 
interior  magnificence.  We  see  below  the  tomb  of  the  Em- 
peror Shah  Jehan,  by  the  side  of  his  beloved  wife,  surrounded 
by  a  marble  screen-work  of  wondrous  beauty.  It  is  perfo- 
rated so  as  to  represent  the  most  artistic  designs  in  mosaic. 
The  slabs  on  which  they  rest  are  inlaid  with  precious  stones 
of  different  colors,  so  arranged  as  to  bring  out  their  dazzling 
magnificence.  Here  are  agate,  carnelian,  jasper,  turquois, 
and  lapis  lazuli,  blending  so  harmoniously  as  to  represent 
natural  flowers.  The  tomb  of  the  queen  rests  just  below 
the  center  of  the  great  dome.  "  Shah  Jehan  had  laid  the 


314  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

foundations  of  a  similar  mausoleum  for  himself  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river  Jumna,  the  two  to  be  connected  by  a 
marble  bridge."  It  is  probable  the  wars  with  his  sons, 
borne  him  by  his  lovely  queen,  prevented  its  completion. 
His  tomb  is  to  the  left  of  his  queen's.  It  is  similar  to  hers, 
may  be  larger,  in  the  same  manner  inlaid  with  precious 
stones.  The  ninety-nine  names  of  God,  in  Arabic  charac- 
ters, are  inscribed  on  her  tomb ;  while  on  his  is  an  Arabic 
inscription  "  containing  some  reference  to  the  death  of  the 
emperor  and  the  history  of  this  wonderful  building."  Look- 
ing above,  the  light  pours  into  the  building  through  win- 
dows of  the  most  delicate  tracery  of  marble  screen-work. 
You  can  appear  and  disappear  in  a  circular  rotunda,  through 
mysterious  arches  that  resounded  with  a  wondrous  echo.  1 
stood  for  a  moment  listening  to  jny  voice  that  rolled  away  in 
harmonious  undulations,  rising  higher  and  higher  toward  its 
heavenly  dome ;  the  sound  floats  and  soars  away  so  slowly  that 
you  hear  it  after  it  is  silent — -as  you  see,  or  seem  to  see,  a  lark 
you  have  been  watching  after  it  is  swallowed  up  in  the  blue 
vaults  of  heaven.  Shah  Jehan  left  a  number  of  villages  as 
a  perpetual  endowment  to  keep  up  the  repairs  of  this  mau- 
soleum. Yellow-robed  priests,  with  portentous  airs,  stroll 
at  large  through  these  lovely  gardens  and  infest  the  very 
portals  of  this  palatial  tomb  with  their  obnoxious  presence. 
I  could  see  backshish  in  their  very  eyes,  and  some  of  them 
had  very  winning  ways  to  make  a  man  hate  them. 

I  was  greatly  interested  in  Akbar's  old  fort  and  his  palace 
inside,  near  the  railroad  station  where  we  landed.  It  is 
three  hundred  years  old.  The  walls  are  built  of  red  sand- 
stone, sixty  feet  high  and  over  one  mile  and  a  half  in  cir- 
cumference. The  Jumna  washes  its  eastern  side.  The  view 
coming  up  the  river  from  the  Taj  increases  in  interest  as  we 
approach  nearer.  The  imperial  mesque  in  this  collection 
is  one  of  the  finest  I  have  seen.  Its  inner  court,  beautifully 


From  Delhi  to  Benares.  315 

carved  panels,  and  Saracenic  arches,  all  of  white  marble, 
betray  much  Oriental  grandeur  about  them.  Outside  the 
walls  of  the  fort,  Shah  Jehan  built  a  larger  one  in  honor  of 
his  daughter,  Jehanara,  whose  humble  grave  we  noticed  at 
Delhi.  This  fort,  like  the  one  at  Delhi,  is  garrisoned  by 
English  soldiers  and  commanded  by  British  cannon.  The 
Government  has  been  engaged  for  years  in  restoring  much 
of  the  former  magnificence  of  the  Palace,  Akbar's  Judgment- 
seat,  Hall  of  Public  Audience,  and  other  buildings  inside 
the  fort.  I  observed  cunning  workmen  (Hindoos)  cutting 
precious  stones  for  mosaic,  and  a  room  frescoed  in  original 
designs  for  the  Prince  of  Wales  some  years  ago  showed  the 
restoration  of  its  ancient  splendor.  The  Hall  of  Public 
Audience,  or  Judgment-seat,  in  some  respects,  reminds  me 
of  the  one  described  in  the  fort  at  Delhi.  It  is  a  long 
open  hall,  as  wide  as  it  is  broad,  with  its  roof  resting  on 
three  rows  of  massive  pillars,  joined  by  those  same  Saracen- 
ic arches.  Akbar  appears  to  have  occupied  a  seat  below  the 
throne  when  he  sat  in  judgment  on  affairs  of  State.  He  was 
a  prince  of  simple  taste,  and  ignored  that  haughty  pride 
which  made  the  Mogul  king  the  detestation  of  his  people. 

Jehanger,  Akbar's  son  and  Shah  Jehan's  father,  built  a 
large  red  sandstone  building  at  the  farther  end  of  the  pal- 
ace buildings.  I  did  not  enter  it.  I  felt  more  interest  in 
Akbar's  Palace.  It  fronts  the  river  and  covers  an  immense 
space  of  ground.  A  splendid  view  of  the  Taj,  a  mile  down 
the  silver  Jumna,  is  enjoyed  from  its  open  court.  The  river 
flows  by  in  silent  grandeur.  Akbar  must  have  been  a  jolly 
old  king  in  his  day.  He  lived  in  stately  pride  and  pleas- 
ure. I  have  traversed  his  old  palace,  through  labyrinths 
of  columns,  around  wnich  the  soft-eyed  beauties  of  his 
harem  used  to  play.  In  front  I  saw  a  marble  court,  with 
the  chess-lines  still  visible,  on  which  the  king  moved  his 
pretty  girls  from  square  to  square  (my  guide  says)  instead 


316  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  men.  Then  there  was  the  great  tank,  in  which  Akbar 
once  dropped  his  royal  hook  from  the  rear  balcony  of  the 
palace,  amid  the  flash  of  dark  eyes  and  loving  caresses.  As 
he  would  toss  the  treasures  of  the  deep,  I  could  imagine  a 
dozen  startled  maidens  flying  for  refuge  behind  this  wilder- 
ness of  columns.  I  passed  through  a  large  court  filled  with 
fountains  and  flowers,  and  entered  the  palace  of  glass — the 
"  shish  mahal,"  or  royal  bath,  the  walls  of  which  were  or- 
namented with  numberless  mirrors.  These  were  arranged 
in  the  most  ingenious  designs.  The  water  falls  in  a  marble 
pool ;  over  brilliant  lamps,  lighted  from  within,  mimic  cas- 
cades tumbled  from  the  walls,  over  slabs  of  marble,  into 
basins  "  so  curiously  carved  that  the  motion  of  the  water 
produced  the  appearance  of  fish."  There  are  other  inter- 
esting places,  such  as  the  under-ground  passage,  where,  in 
the  oppressive  heat,  the  king's  ladies  once  played  hide- 
and-seek  for  the  amusement  of  their  lord.  The  guide 
shows  the  well  where  the  disloyal  subjects  were  put  to  death. 
Many  of  these  buildings,  so  long  out  of  repair,  are  being 
gradually  restored  by  the  Government.  Shah  Jehan  em- 
ployed the  finest  French  and  Italian  masters  in  his  times  to 
instruct  the  Hindoos  in  intricate  arts,  which  they  seem  to 
have  retained  a  knowledge  of  till  this  day.  I  examined  a 
great  door  of  sandal-wood,  with  curious  carvings,  many 
hundred  years  old. 

There  is  a  tradition  about  a  certain  block  of  stone  the 
Rajah  of  Bhurpore  and  Lord  Ellenboro,  Governor-general 
of  India,  once  sat  on,  which  caused  the  stone  to  shed  blood. 
"Bishop  Marvin  tried  it,  and  it  did  not  even  grunt."  I 
thought  I  had  outtraveled  these  foolish  stories  when  I  left 
Mohammed's  foot-prints  in  Jerusalem,  the  scattered  bones  of 
the  prophets,  a  lock  of  the  Virgin's  hair  in  Messina,  thirty 
pieces  of  the  true  cross  and  a  small  keg  of  nails  that  came 
out  of  it  in  the  cathedrals  of  Europe ;  but  I  tremble  as  I 


From  Delhi  to  Benares.  317 

approach  Benares,  the  birthplace  of  Buddha.  I  expect  to 
find  him  as  badly  scattered  from  India  to  Japan. 

Recrossing  the  splendid  iron  bridge  over  the  Jumna,  we 
are  whirling  away  toward  the  junction,  fourteen  miles  dis- 
tant, where  the  branch  road  from  Agra  intersects  with  the 
main  line.  Here  we  change  cars  for  Cawupore,  Allahabad, 
and  Benares.  I  watched  the  peerless  white  dome  of  the  Taj 
for  miles,  as  it  soared  away  like  an  air- castle  in  the  blue  vault- 
ed dome  of  heaven.  I  had  seen  nothing  that  impressed  me  so 
grandly  since  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt  sunk  on  my  vision.  The 
pictures  of  these  two  marvelous  structures  will  live  among 
the  fadeless  memories  of  my  voyage  around  the  world. 

At  the  first  station  after  leaving  Agra  one  of  Islam's  fol- 
lowers jumped  out  of  the  cars,  spread  his  carpet  on  the 
ground,  and  began  his  prayers  in  the  most  impressive  man- 
ner. He  had  turned  his  face  westward  toward  Mecca.  The 
whistle  blew,  but  he  continued  his  supplication  to  the 
throne  of  grace.  He  was  literally  wrapped  in  the  bosom  of 
the  prophet.  When  the  train  was  about  to  leave  him  it  re- 
quired the  guards  and  several  of  his  comrades  to  adjourn 
that  prayer-meeting.  There  was  not  even  time  for  the  dox- 
ology.  He  came  running  to  the  cars,  laughing.  I  don't 
know  what  to  think  of  Islam  or  his  religion — whether  his 
devotions  are  mere  formalities,  mumbling  a  few  verses  from 
the  Koran,  or  whether  he  is  contrite  at  heart.  He  washes 
his  hands  and  prays  five  times  a  day,  as  I  have  observed. 
Some  of  us  Protestants  do  n't  pray  once  in  a  year.  It  seems 
as  if  our  religion  was  a  mockery  compared  to  the  formal- 
ities of  the  Moslem.  Islam  abhors  idolatry,  but  tolerates 
polygamy  and  recognizes  Mohammed  and  God  instead  of 
the  Lord  and  our  Saviour.  But  his  history  is  written  in 
tyranny,  oppression,  and  blood.  The  Mohammedans  are  yet 
the  aggressive  race  of  India ;  but  in  religion  the  Hindoos 
are  the  most  powerful. 


818  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

FARMING  IN  INDIA — COTTON,  WHEAT,  BARLEY,  GRAM — 
PRICE  OF  LABOR,  ETC. 

nnHERE  is  such  a  variety  of  soil  and  climate  in  India  we 
JL  are  astounded  at  the  marvelous  phases  agriculture  as- 
sumes. In  one  division  of  the  nine  British  provinces  there 
is  a  fair  rain-fall  of  forty  to  fifty  inches ;  in  another  section 
there  is  no  rain  at  all  except  during  the  monsoons,  which 
begin  in  June  and  end  in  October.  In  North-west  India, 
through  Rajputana  State,  the  Scinde  and  Punjab  prov- 
inces, farming  is  absolutely  dependent  on  wells,  canals,  and 
catchment  basins,  from  which  its  lands  are  irrigated  in  the 
absence  of  rain- fall.  Crops  of  all  kinds  are  planted  in  drills 
or  rows,  to  admit  the  flow  of  water  between.  These  States, 
with  the  central  provinces  below,  comprise  the  great  grain- 
growing  regions.  Here  wheat,  barley,  oats,  and  gram  are 
extensively  cultivated.  The  opium  district  is  down  about 
Benares  and  Patna;  still  farther  south,  in  Bengal,  rice, 
hemp,  indigo,  and  sugar-cane  are  largely  cultivated.  In 
the  western  provinces,  east  and  north  of  Bombay,  in  Berar 
and  Surat  districts,  or  throughout  the  level  plain  of  Hin- 
doostan,  cotton  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  features  of 
agriculture.  As  cotton  is  our  principal  crop  in  the  Atlantic 
and  Gulf  States,  I  will  notice  its  cultivation  in  India  first. 
The  causes,  or  influences,  that  promote  its  production  here 
are  among  the  most  remarkable  phenomena  in  nature. 
Here  she  elaborates  one  of  "  the  most  beautiful  and  useful 
of  meteorological  problems"  I  have  ever  studied.  It  is 
this :  that  the  great  deserts  of  Central  Asia  produce  the  cot- 
ton crop  of  Hindoostan.  By  referring  to  your  atlas  you  will 
perceive  Hindoostan  is  a  fertile  plain  situated  between  the 


Farming  in  India.  319 


Himalayas  on  the  north  and  the  Ghauts  on  the  west  of  In- 
dia. Between  these  two  great  ranges,  then,  lies  the  cotton 
region  of  Hindoostan.  We  have  alluded  to  the  monsoons, 
but  have  not  told  you  what  they  are  or  what  produce 
them.  The  monsoons,  then,  are  the  periodical  winds  that 
blow  six  months  from  one  point  of  the  compass  and  then 
change  and  blow  the  other  half  of  the  year  from  the  oppo- 
site point.  These  are  called  the  north-east  and  south-west 
monsoons.  The  first  brings  dry  weather,  the  last  wet, 
called  the  crop  monsoon.  The  great  deserts  alluded  to 
produce  them.  If  those  deserts  were  clothed  with  verdure, 
covered  with  forest,  and  watered  by  streams,  they  would 
reverse  this  order  of  nature,  and  Hindoostan,  with  its  two 
hundred  millions  of  inhabitants,  would  perish.  When  the 
sun  has  crossed  from  the  Southern  into  the  Northern  Hem- 
isphere and  stands  perpendicular  over  the  Great  Desert  in 
May,  he  pours  down  his  vertical  rays  into  this  intermina- 
ble waste  of  sand,  heating  it  up  like  a  fiery  furnace.  It  is 
an  ocean  of  sand  where  not  a  blade  of  grass  can  be  found. 
Once  heated,  the  air  begins  to  rarefy  and  ascends,  forming 
a  great  vacuum,  while  the  furnace  grows  hotter  and  hotter. 
The  north-east  monsoons,  blowing  over  Hindoostan,  are 
slackened  by  this  vacuum.  They  grow  weaker  and  weaker, 
then  calms  ensue,  which  after  a  long  struggle  are  finally 
turned  back,  and  the  south-west  monsoon,  or  rainy  season, 
begins.  These  hot  winds,  now  changed  from  the  north  to 
the  south-west  monsoon,  have  a  clean  sweep  from  the  tropic 
of  Capricorn  across  the  great  bosom  of  the  ocean,  following 
the  sun  in  his  course,  under  his  vertical  rays  "lap  up  the 
waters  like  a  thirsty  wolf,"  and  shower  them  down  on  In- 
dia. The  evaporation,  according  to  the  Geographical  Socie- 
ty of  Bombay,  has  exceeded  an  inch  every  day  while  these 
heated  winds  were  traveling  over  its  bosom. 

Commodore  Semmes,  in  his  "Service  Afloat,"  illustrates 


320  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

another  beautiful  provision  of  nature.  I  have  mentioned 
the  Ghaut  Mountains,  stretching  along  parallel  with  the 
west  coast  of  Hindoostan.  "These  mountains  protect  the 
plains  from  inundation.  The  south-"west  monsoon  blows 
square  across  these  mountains.  As  the  heavily  laden  winds 
begin  to  ascend  the  first  slopes  they  commence  to  deposit 
their  moisture."  Immense  quantities  of  water,  sometimes 
as  much  as  thirteen  inches  in  a  single  day,  are  precipitated, 
thereby  depriving  them  of  their  excess  of  water.  Thus  the 
cotton  region  is  saved  from  inundation  by  this  diminishing 
process. 

It  is  in  nature  we  study  the  mysterious  hand  of  the  Crea- 
tor. We  see  the  under-cur rents  from  the  frigid  zone  of  the 
north  pole  flowing  to  the  equator  to  produce  an  equilib- 
rium in  density,  while  the  heated  waters  of  the  Gulf-stream 
flow  across  the  Atlantic  to  warm  up  the  frozen  shores  of 
Great  Britain.  More  mysterious  still  is  this  great  heating- 
furnace  of  the  central  deserts  that  sends  its  hot  currents  of 
air  whizzing  around  and  across  the  ocean,  bearing  on  their 
wings  the  moisture  that  shall  feed  two  hundred  millions  of 
people  of  India. 

The  first  experiments  in  cotton  culture  appear  to  have 
been  made  about  Surat,  one  hundred  and  sixty-seven  miles 
north-west  of  Bombay,  producing  a  staple  known  by  that 
name  of  inferior  quality.  Here,  and  at  Baroda,  English 
capital  has  introduced  improved  machinery  for  the  culti- 
vation of  cotton,  steam  cotton  gins  and  presses  for  prepar- 
ing it  for  market.  I  saw  immense  piles  of  seed  at  Baroda 
that  would  be  shipped  to  Europe  and  converted  into  oil 
and  cake.  When  the  monsoon  rains  begin,  about  the  last 
of  May  or  first  of  June,  the  land  is  plowed  and  seed  planted 
on  beds  by  the  English  as  in  Egypt.  They  cultivate  much 
like  we  do  in  the  Southern  States.  But  the  natives,  who 
produce  nearly  all  the  crop,  sow  broadcast  on  beds  three 


Farming  in  India.  321 


feet  wide,  generally  with  lentels  (beans),  or  some  other  crop 
which  matures  in  advance  or  after  the  cotton  crop.  The 
beans  taken  off,  the  young  plant  is  cultivated  entirely  with 
the  hoe.  The  best  staple  of  cotton  is  produced  in  Berar  dis- 
trict, north  of  Hyderabad,  said  to  rival  New  Orleans  mid- 
dlings ;  so  Mr.  Henry  Ballantyne,  of  Bombay,  informs  me. 
Mr.  Ballantyne  thinks  with  the  same  methods,  machinery, 
and  preparation  for  market  adopted  by  the  Southern  plant- 
ers in  North  America,  Hindoostan  will  eventually  become 
a  formidable  competitor  in  the  growth  and  production  of 
the  cotton  supply  for  the  world's  consumption.  I  examined 
several  very  fair  samples  in  Bombay.  Experiments  made 
with  American  seed  show  they  deteriorate  here  in  a  few 
years.  The  best  cotton  districts  lie  between  twenty-eight 
and  thirty-three  degrees  north  latitude.  After  planting, 
there  is  little  labor  bestowed  except  weeding  with  the  hoe. 
The  cotton  grows  luxuriantly,  soon  covering  the  ground, 
with  the  stalks  standing  six  inches  to  a  foot  apart.  The 
women  and  children  from  the  villages  do  the  cultivation, 
and  in  October  turn  out  en  masse  to  gather  the  fleecy  staple. 
An  acre,  sown  broadcast  in  the  way  described,  yields  two  to 
three  hundred  pounds  of  seed-cotton.  This  is  taken  to  the 
villages,  where  the  lint  is  either  picked  off  by  hand  or  sep- 
arated by  thousands  of  little  roller-gins,  like  those  once 
used  in  Carolina  and  Georgia.  The  lint  is  then  sold  to  the 
English  buyers  or  their  agents,  taken  to  the  press  at  the 
railway  stations,  packed,  and  shipped  to  Bombay.  It  is 
there  compressed,  as  I  have  stated,  before  exportation  to 
Liverpool. 

Formerly  Russia  and  France  were  the  competitors  of  the 
United  States  in  the  production  of  wheat.  The  rapid  ex- 
tension of  the  railway  system  in  India  the  past  few  years  has 
increased  the  wheat  crop  from  two  hundred  thousand  bush- 
els, thirty  years  ago,  to  two  hundred  and  forty-five  million 
21 


322  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


bushels  in  1884.  So  India  is  now  second  only  to  the  United 
States.  The  average  yield  here  is  about  twelve  bushels  per 
acre,  varying  according  to  land  and  seasons.  The  Punjab, 
Oude,  and  north-western  provinces,  show  the  greatest  acre- 
age and  production.  There  are  fifty-three  millions  of  acres, 
good  land,  that  can  yet  be  brought  under  cultivation. 

Efforts  have  been  made  by  the  Government  to  introduce 
better  plows;  but  the  natives  are  too  poor  to  buy  them,  or 
from  traditional  usages  are  slow  to  abandon  old  methods. 
A  few  agricultural  colleges,  with  plowing  matches,  etc.,  and 
still  another  project  of  establishing  agricultural  banks  for 
the  ryots,  or  farmers,  may  produce  a  wonderful  revolution 
in  the  future  agriculture  of  India.  But  it  will  require  time 
to  overcome  prejudice  and  supplant  the  little  sticks  of  plows 
(inexpensive)  used  by  the  natives.  The  rate  of  interest 
here  is  not  only  arbitrary,  but  simply  ruinous.  Money  is 
loaned  to  the  ryots  at  fifty  and  seventy-five  per  cent,  per 
annum,  the  principal  hardly  ever  being  expected  on  ex- 
tended paper. 

The  cost  of  wheat  will  average  from  twelve  to  sixteen 
annas  (thirty-six  to  forty-eight  cents)  per  bushel,  determined 
by  the  rain-fall  and  irrigation.  As  I  have  stated,  in  the 
central  provinces  we  find  a  regular  rain-fall  of  forty  to  fifty- 
five  inches,  the  same  as  Georgia,  while  in  the  States  of  Scinde 
and  Rajputana  the  crop  must  be  irrigated.  I  find  thirty 
millions  irrigated  out  of  two  hundred  million  acres  of  wheat 
cultivated  in  British  India.  Eight  millions  of  acres  are  ir- 
rigated from  canals  and  catchment  basins  and  twelve  mill- 
ions from  wells — a  well  and  bullock  to  every  acre.  Canals 
increased  the  value  of  land  four  hundred  per  cent.  In 
Mysore  irrigated  farms  sell  for  £35,  or  $175,  per  acre; 
while  lands  without  water  bring  only  £2  to  £2. 10s,  equal 
to  ten  to  twelve  dollars  and  fifty  cents.  No  country  in  the 
world  is  so  phenomenal  in  physical  characteristics  as  India. 


Farming  in  India.  323 


Where  the  rain-fall  is  precipitate,  catchment  basins  twenty- 
five  miles  in  circumference,  ten  to  sixty  feet  deep,  are  pro- 
vided to  hold  the  water  of  the  rain  season  to  supply  the 
deficiencies  of  drought.     In  the  Scinde  agriculture  is  entire- 
ly dependent  on  the  floods  or  the  snows  of  the  Himalayas. 
The  longest  canal  in  the  Punjab  is  five  hundred  and  two 
miles.     Two  thousand  five  hundred  small  channels  irrigate 
from  this  canal  seven  hundred  and  eighty  thousand  acres  of 
wheat,  producing  an  average  of  fifteen  maunds,  or  twenty 
bushels  and  a  half,  per  acre.     This  wheat  weighs  sixty  to 
sixty-four  pounds  per  bushel,  being  very  dry,  of  white  or 
red  varieties.    It  is  all  cut  by  hand  with  scythes  and  threshed 
on  the  ground  or  threshing-floors  with  the  tramping  or 
treading  of  buffalo  cows.     The  natives  make  fans  out  of 
bamboo  when  there  is  not  sufficient  wind  to  winnow  it.  The 
holdings,  or  farms,  average  from  three  to  nine  acres,  and 
even  as  high  as  thirty-five  acres  in  the  central  provinces. 
The  land  in  India  is  cultivated  with  bullocks  and  buffalo 
cows.     The  plow  looks  like  a  pick-ax,  one  arm  of  the  pick 
for  the  plowshare  and  the  other  for  the  handle.     It  seems  to 
tear,  and  not  to  cut,  the  ground.     It  stirs  the  soil  without 
inverting  it.     In  this  district,  Agra  and  Allahabad  below, 
barley  or  gram  is  sown  with  the  wheat  in  October  and  cut 
in  March  or  April.     The  laud  is  supposed  to  have  lain 
fallow  the  previous  summer.     It  receives  no  manure  what- 
ever, except  about  the  cities.     It  is  surprising  how  many 
centuries  this  Valley  of  the  Ganges  has  been  cultivated  with 
the  rudest  implements,  without  fertilizers.     It  must  be  the 
continual  stirring  of  the  soil,  from  four  to  twenty  plowings 
(owing  to  the  industry  of  the  farmer)  given  a  single  crop. 
When  the  land  is  once  prepared,  the  Hindoo  opens  his  bed 
and  drills  in  the  seed  by  a  little  bamboo  tube  attached  be- 
hind his  plow.     If  it  is  too  dry  to  germinate  the  seed,  he 
gives  his  land  a  watering  before  sowing;  then  three  or  four 


324  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

waterings  during  cultivation.  Think  of  fifty  miles  square 
with  one  thousand  bullocks  to  the  square  mile,  in  North- 
west India,  elevating  water  to  farm  with!  We  will  notice 
the  other  great  factor  that  solves  the  problem  of  agriculture 
in  India.  It  is  an  unsettled  problem  in  our  country.  I  al- 
lude to  the  labor  question.  Cheap  labor  is  empirical  here. 
It  defies  all  competition.  Even  lumber  can  be  sawed  by 
hand  power  cheaper  than  by  steam,  and  lint  cotton  grown 
at  three  to  four  cents  per  pound.  The  best  teke  plank  is 
sawed  at  twenty  cents  per  hundred  feet.  It  is  said  the  Hin- 
doo is  worth  only  one-third  as  much  as  a  European  in  the 
field.  Admit  the  supposition,  you  get  his  day's  labor  for 
ten  cents,  his  wife's  for  two  annas,  or  six  cents,  and  the 
children's  for  five  cents  each,  without  board.  The  climate 
here  supplies  nearly  all  his  wants,  with  fruits  and  vegeta- 
bles, and  dispenses  with  the  clothing  of  our  Western  Hem- 
isphere. He  lives  in  a  bamboo  hut,  thatched  with  straw  or 
palm-leaves,  its  sides  stuccoed  with  mud,  with  a  hole  in  the 
top  of  the  roof  for  a  chimney  and  one  in  the  side  for  a  door, 
upon  a  dirt  floor.  Happy  Hindoo!  No,  he  is  not  happy. 
He  is  very  poor,  but  seems  contented.  Some  are  well  to 
do,  while  the  native  princes  are  very  wealthy.  They  enjoy 
fine  clothes  and  sumptuous  living.  They  no  longer  have 
use  for  standing  armies.  The  English  Government  protects 
them.  But  a  coolie  here  will  work  all  the  year  round  for 
what  it  costs  to  feed  a  Georgia  freedman.  He  is  a  vegeta- 
rian, as  I  have  remarked.  It  is  against  his  religion  to  eat 
meat,  and  I  wish  it  was  against  that  of  our  darkies'.  It  is 
against  his  religion  to  drink  whisky.  Our  freedmen,  and  our 
white  population  too,  would  become  wealthy,  if  they  could 
emulate  the  Hindoo  in  his  temperate  life. 


Cawnpore  and  Lucknow. 


325 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

CAWNPORE  AND  LUCKNOW. 

~P)  ESUMING  our  journey  down  the  Ganges,  we  witness 
JA  maii}^  scenes  about  the  stations  on  our  arrival.  The 
station-houses  are  musical  with  the  cries  and  songs  of  the 
native  hucksters,  who  bear  on  their  heads  delicious  fruits, 
little  cakes,  eggs,  and  candies,  rushing  up  and  down  the 
trains  to  see  who  will  buy  their  wares.  The  horse  dak  is 


GETTING  UNDER  WAY. 

coming  to  meet  the  train,  while  the  booking  office  is  crowded 
with  the  natives  buying  tickets  for  the  third-class  cars.  The 
heat  is  increasing  in  intensity,  and  at  every  station  we  see 
the  Hindoos  jumping  out  of  the  cars  and  squatting  on  the 
ground  to  take  a  drink.  This  is  the  water-carrier  I  de- 
scribed in  Egypt,  who  pours  the  water  out  of  his  leather 
bottle  into  the  hands  of  the  native. 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


TAKING  A  DRINK. 

The  East  India  Railroad  employs  many  of  the  Hindoos 
as  flag  and  station  masters,  who  are  faithful  in  the  perform- 
ance of  their  official  duties.  The  Eurasians — the  cross  of 
the  Portuguese  with  the  natives — are  weH-educated  fellows, 
speaking  English  fluently,  and  fill  all  the  most  important 
places  not  occupied  by  English  officials.  They  may  be  seen 
in  the  booking  offices  selling  tickets,  in  the  baggage  and 
waiting  rooms,  but  never  as  conductors  or  engineers,  these 
places  being  filled  by  the  Englishmen. 

We  are  approaching  Cawupore,  situated  on  the  right  bank 


Caumpore  and  Lncknow.  327 

of  the  Ganges — a  beautiful  city,  which  all  Englishmen  re- 
gard with  veneration,  for  many  of  their  consecrated  dead 
sleep  here.  Whether  the  deposition  of  the  King  of  Oude 
or  the  deep-seated  hatred  of  the  natives  toward  the  English 
Government  wras  the  cause  of  the  mutiny  in  1857,  we  can- 
not discuss  here.  What  a  horrid  spectacle  must  have  en- 
raged the  English  soldiery  when  they  entered  Cawnpore 
and  found  the  wives  and  children  of  their  own  blood  cruelly 
butchered  by  that  arch-rebel,  Nana  Dhooudonapout,  of 
Bithoor,  and  cast  down  a  well,  mangled  and  dying,  their 
forms  all  covered  with  blood !  That  awful  massacre  oc- 
curred on  the  15th  of  July,  1857.  The  well  was  filled  up 
with  earth,  and  after  the  war  was  over  a  beautiful  monu- 
ment was  erected  over  the  spot.  An  angel,  with  drooping 
wings  and  downcast  face,  that  seems  to  breathe  in  living 
marble,  rises  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  the  consecrated 
dead.  While  Delhi  was  the  center,  Oude  was  the  battle- 
field, of  that  memorable  conflict.  No  wonder  the  infuriated 
English  soldiers,  fired  with  the  indignation  and  rage  so  hor- 
rible a  massacre  inspired,  sent  a  thrill  of  terror  into  the 
ranks  of  the  vanquished  Sepoys  when  they  began  to  blow 
them  out  of  the  mouths  of  their  own  cannon. 

Forty-six  miles  by  rail,  the  splendid  city  of  Lucknow  is 
reached — another  memorable  place  in  the  history  of  that 
struggle,  where  the  gallant  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  was  killed 
and  the  immortal  Havelock  died.  Both  Cawnpore  and 
Lucknow  are  at  present  the  centers  of  important  mission- 
ary schools  and  educational  work,  situated  in  the  richest 
province  in  India.  The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  Mis- 
sion, of  America,  has  been  established  here  about  thirty 
years,  and  numbers  thousands  of  converts  among  the  Hin- 
doos, who  are  much  more  easily  reached,  it  appears,  than 
the  Mohammedans.  Some  wealthy  natives  have  made  do- 
nations for  charitable  institutions,  among  others  hospitals, 


328  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

where  the  sick  or  afflicted  native  women  may  be  cared  for. 
A  number  of  women  practitioners,  both  among  the  mission- 
aries and  native  preachers'  wives,  who  have  studied  medi- 
cine, are  welcomed  among  the  people,  where  they  find  am- 
ple opportunities  for  spreading  the  gospel. 

It  is  amusing  to  see  the  elephants  of  the  rich  rajahs  driven 
into  the  river  Jumna  here  by  their  attendants,  the  "  ma- 
houts," for  a  bath  and  good  scrubbing.  They  lie  down  in 
the  water  on  their  sides,  stretching  out  at  full  length,  occa- 
sionally raising  their  trunks  out  of  the  river  to  take  breath. 
They  look  the  very  pictures  of  contentment. 

All  over  India  we  have  seen  both  men  and  women  chew- 
ing the  betel-nut.  We  recognize  it  by  the  discolored  teeth 
and  red  lips  of  the  natives.  It  is  usually  wrapped  in  a 
green  leaf,  with  a  little  lime  and  tobacco  added  before  chew- 
ing. I  never  tried  it ;  but  it  is  said  to  have  a  not  unpleas- 
ant taste.  Everywhere  it  forms  an  important  staple  of 
commerce,  and  thousands  of  women  and  boys  throughout 
India  may  be  seen  sitting  at  the  street-corners,  preparing 
and  selling  it.  Twice  every  day  the  Hindoo  is  required  to 
bathe,  or  wash  himself.  In  every  stream  I  have  seen  large 
numbers  bathing — often  standing  in  the  water  washing  their 
scanty  garments,  when  they  had  any  on.  Both  their  re- 
ligion and  the  climate  demand  cleanliness,  which  is  one  ex- 
cellent feature  of  Hindoo  life.  When  they  have  no  streams 
they  wash  upon  the  street-corners.  The  children  run  out 
and  play  in  the  pools  and  mud  as  they  do  in  other  coun- 
tries. The  mother  is  ablaze  with  jewels.  She  wears  a 
necklace  of  English  sovereigns  and  pearls  around  her  neck, 
countless  rings,  bangles,  and  ringlets,  rings  on  her  toes  and 
tinkling  silver  bells  in  her  ears.  I  have  seen  jewels  in  her 
nose.  She  is  generally  attired  in  a  ball-room  costume,  with 
shorter  skirts  and  lower  necks  than  are  worn  even  in  Amer- 
ica. Her  baby,  not  eighteen  months  old,  is  a  gorgeous  lit- 


Cawnpore  -and  Lucknoiv. 


329 


WASHING  UP. 


tie  institution.  Like  its  mother,  it  delights  in  its  bangles 
and  charms.  I  have  seen  the  men  wearing  bracelets,  and 
nose-rings  too.  With  a  population  of  two  hundred  mill- 
ions, we  can  perceive  what  an  immense  quantity  of  gold  and 
silver  in  ornaments  is  retired  from  circulation. 

In  one  hour  and  a  half  we  arrive  at  Allahabad,  a  large 
city  situated  between  the  rivers  Jumna  and  Ganges,  three 
miles  above  their  confluence.  It,  too,  is  one  of  the  sacred 
cities  of  the  Hindoos.  Upon  the  wooded  banks  of  the 
Jumna  the  memories  of  Krishna  and  Buddha— once  of 
earth,  but  now  of  heaven— are  still  revered.  This  land  of 
myths  and  legends  breathes  the  spirit  of  "  Hindoo  poesy  on 
every  page  of  its  history."  These  Hindoos  boasted  of  their 
god  of  India,  the  god  of  air,  long  before  "Zeus"  was  known 
to  Homer.  "The  Aryans  had  worshiped  the  same  god 


330  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

here  before  they  carried  him  into  Greece  and  Italy.  The 
Brahmans,  who  migrated  toward  the  south,  invoked  him 
along  the  river  of  the  Punjab."  *  Here  "  Pruyag,"  the  moon 
god,  once  lived.  During  January  the  festival  in  his  honor 
begins.  The  mela,  or  fair,  held  near  the  junction  of  the  two 
rivers,  lasts  two  months. 

The  whole  earth  is  covered  with  tents,  superstition,  devo- 
tees, and  beggars.  For  every  hair  shaven  off  the  Hindoo's 
head  that  falls  in  the  rivers  one  million  years  of  happiness 
is  promised  in  paradise.  Imagine  what  a  barber-shop,  with 
its  thousands  of  thrifty  razors  at  \vork,  is  to  be  seen  here ! 
Allahabad  is  the  junction  of  the  road  from  Bombay,  eight 
hundred  and  forty-four  miles,  by  way  of  Jubbulpore.  It 
is  a  city  of  the  greatest  antiquity.  Megasthenes,  a  Greek 
embassador,  resided  here  300  B.C.  We  have  accounts  of 
India  through  the  Greek  written  by  him.  An  old  Hindoo 
fortress  stood  near  here  three  thousand  years  ago.  One  of 
the  sacred  pillars  of  Asoka,  similar  to  the  one  described  at 
Delhi,  stands  on^its  site,  erected  250  B.C.  In  those  day's 
they  had  no  newspapers,  and  the  king  issued  his  edicts  on 
stone.  The  inscriptions  on  this  pillar  call  upon  the  public 
to  erect  hospitals,  prevent  cruelty  to  animals,  etc.  'This  oM 
fort,  and  the  one  at  Lucknow,  in  Northern  India,  were  the 
only  two  that  did  not  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  insurgents 
during  the  Sepoy  rebellion  in  1857.  The  English  troops 
ate  salt  pork  in  the  Musjid,  or  Mohammedan  Mosque,  and 
forever  defiled  it,  according  to  the  Prophet's  decree.  What 
a  strange  religion  in  contrast  is  that  of  the  Brahmans !  The 
one  refuses  to  eat  the  hog  because  the  —  -  is  in  him,  and 
the  other,  or  Hindoo,  worships  him  as  Baraha,  "  the  second 
incarnation  of  Vishnu,  who  rooted  the  world  up  from  the 
bottom  of  the  sea."  In  the  temple  close  by  the  Old  Fort- 
ress, dedicated  to  Baraha,  we  see  the  Hindoos  bowing  down 

*  Edinburgh  Keview,  October,  1851. 


Cawnpore  and  Lucknow. 


331 


to  his  sacred  snout,  offering  potatoes,  rice,  mangoes,  and 
other  delicious  things  to  appease  his  wrath  or  secure  per- 
petual favors.  Women  pour  on  the  holy  water,  dipped  up 
in  the  Ganges,  and  garland  his  head  with  flowers.  About 
the  market-place  sit  women,  chattering  like  magpies,  with 
tattooed  faces,  representations  of  fish,  flowers,  or  fruit,  on 
their  foreheads.  Their  arms,  necks,  and  bodies  are  also 
painted.  This  is  done  by  tattooing,  or  pricking  the  skin, 
when  quite  young  and  inserting  India  ink.  You  see  moth- 
ers carrying  their  brats  in  baskets  on  top  of  their  heads  or 
astride  their  hips  in  Allahabad.  I  have  never  heard  one 
of  these  young  bantlings  squall  yet.  They  seem  to  imbibe 
the  very  spirit  of  submission  at  their  birth.  While  some  of 
these  women  are  gossiping,  or  selling  fruit,  another  one,  a 
little  distance  off,  is  engaged  in  making  some  "interesting 


STUDYING  PHRENOLOGY. 


discoveries."  She  is  evidently  studying  phrenological  de- 
velopments, by  the  careful  manner  in  which  she  examines 
her  little  girl's  head. 


332    %  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

The  English  have  established  magistrate  or  justice  courts 
here  as  in  Agra,  in  which  the  native  can  bring  his  griev- 
ances for  adjudication.  And  he  is  always  in  court,  so  I  was 
informed.  Of  course  the  legal  oath  is  not  binding,  and  the 
judge  must  swear  the  Hindoo  by  what  he  believes  or  holds 
sacred.  The  Ganges  or  the  hog  will  do.  The  Hindoo 
makes  a  capital  lawyer  and  a  subtle  witness.  He  displays 
an  immense  deal  of  cunning  in  the  management  of  his  cases. 

We  crossed  the  Jumna  over  a  splendid  iron  bridge,  and 
soon  arrived  at  Mirzapoor,  a  town  of  seventy-five  thousand 
inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Ganges.  The  adjacent  country 
is  very  fertile,  and  lies  like  a  table.  This  section  produces 
a  large  part  of  the  cotton  crop  shipped  to  England.  In  re- 
turn Manchester  sends  back  her  manufactured  cottons  and 
Birmingham  her  brass  gods,  just  like  we  used  to  do  when  the 
North  sent  us  back  in  exchange  for  our  crop  her  wooden  clocks 
and  nutmegs,  with  plenty  of  cowhides  to  whip  the  negroes. 

Hy,  yi !  it  looks  as  if  the  dak  had  taken  a  "  dead  set." 
Some  push,  others  pull  ears ;  but  the  stubborn  brutes  won't 
go.  The  passengers  will  be  left. 

There  are  fifty  millions  of  people  who  trade  at  Mirzapoor. 
A  curious  incident  is  related  which  occurred  here  once,  that 
shows  the  arbitrary  power  of  caste  among  the  Hindoos :  A 
thoughtless  Englishman,  across  the  street  one  day,  brought 
down  his  opera-glasses  on  an  unveiled  woman  of  high  caste, 
who  was  walking  in  her  garden  for  a  bit  of  fresh  air,  with- 
out having  taken  the  necessary  precaution  to  cover  her  face. 
The  result  was  she  was  disgraced — ruined  forever.  An 
Englishman  saw  her.  Her  heart-broken  husband  rushed 
over,  and  throwing  himself  prostrate  before  the  English- 
man declared  he  was  an  outcast  for  life.  This  power  of 
caste  extends  to  the  lowest  servant. 

There  is  nothing  like  general  housework  done  in  India.  It 
requires  about  one  dozen  Hindoos  to  wait  on  a  foreigner  or  to 


Cawnpore  and  Lucknow. 


333 


i  WON'T  oo« 

keep  house.  At  first  I  thought  it  must  require  great  wealth  to 
live  in  India.  But  all  these  servants  can  be  employed  for 
about  one  dollar  a  day.  Then  it  began  to  look  like  style. 
Every  man  would  do  a  certain  thing.  If  his  father  was  n 
cook,  he  would  be  a  cook ;  if  a  priest,  a  priest;  a  soldier,  or 
a  blacksmith.  The  punka-waller  will  fan  you,  the  valet-boy 
brushes  your  clothes,  the  kitmagar  sets  and  waits  on  the 
table,  the  sycee  is  the  hostler,  the  bhisstee  the  water-bearer, 
the  cloby  the  wash-boy,  the  chipparassee  the  post-boy,  the 
kans  kans  kattie  the  cooling-boy,  and  the  mollie  is  your 
gardener.  In  front  of  your  house,  or  bungalow,  there  is  a 
matting  called  kass  kass,  which  it  is  necessary  to  keep  wet 
all  the  time  to  modify  the  intense  heat  reflected  from  the 
glare  of  the  sun.  The  kans  kans  kattie  is  the  coolie  who 
does  this  work.  Ko  amount  of  money  or  influence  could 
change  him  into  a  kitmagar,  or  a  kitmagar  into  a  punka- 
waller.  These  are  curious  facts,  but  they  are  very  true. 
Forty  miles  below  Mirzapoor  we  change  cars  at  Mogul 


334  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Serai  for  Benares,  five  miles  distant.  I  saw  numerous  jack- 
als skulking  along  the  road,  but  no  game.  There  is  a  bird 
called  the  tailor-bird,  that  sews  the  leaves  of  trees  together 
in  building  its  nest.  Another,  known  as  the  weaver-bird, 
weaves  its  nest  and  hangs  it  below  a  limb,  out  of  all  dan- 
ger. The  golden  oriole,  the  minar,  the  humming-bird,  arid 
other  richly  colored  birds,  are  found  throughout  India. 

Bayard  Taylor  went  into  ecstasy  over  the  beauty  of  Ben- 
ares. Except  the  imposing  structures  which  rise  along  the 
high  banks  of  the  Ganges,  whose  splendid  minarets  and 
domes  dominated  the  surrounding  landscape,  I  saw  nothing 
overwhelming  in  its  appearance. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

BENARES,  ITS  SHRINES  AND  TEMPLES. 

WE  enjoy  the  finest  view  of  the  river  and  city  from  the 
bridge  of  boats.  Taking  a  row-boat,  we  glide  along 
past  its  bathing  and  burning  ghats,  its  mosques  and  temples, 
for  a  mile.  The  Ganges  is  three  hundred  yards  wide,  prob- 
ably broader,  and  the  bank  on  which  Benares  is  built  rises 
one  hundred  feet  or  more  above  the  water.  The  city  boasts 
of  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  and  five  thousand 
shrines  and  temples.  It  is  to  the  Hindoos  what  Jerusalem 
is  to  the  Christians,  or  Mecca  is.  to  the  Mohammedans — the 
holiest  of  all  the  sacred  places  on  earth.  It  looks  back  into 
the  hoary  ages  of  antiquity  three  thousand  years  or  more. 
It  may  be  as  old  as  Damascus.  It  was  a  city  when  David 
tended  his  father's  flocks  around  the  hills  of  Bethlehem. 
The  sight  of  its  sacred  places  and  temples  has  awakened  the 
deepest  emotions  in  the  hearts  of  countless  millions  of  pil- 
grims. Early  in  the  morning  we  see  them  descending  the 
broad  flight  of  stone  steps  that  lead  down  from  their  temples 


Benares,  its  Shrines  and  Temples. 


335 


THE  SACRED  STREAM. 

into  the  river.  They  bathe  their  bodies,  even  wash  their 
scanty  clothing ;  pour  out  water  to  the  sun  god ;  men  and 
women  bathing  together.  The  Ganges  is  shallow  some  dis- 
tance from  shore,  so  great  elephants  are  led  out  and  bathe 
too.  The  water  is  very  holy  at  this  particular  point,  its 
cleansing  powers  being  simply  miraculous.  The  Hindoos 
declare  it  will  even  save  a  Christian.  It  is  to  India  what 
the  river  Jordan  is  to  Palestine.  The  Hindoos  believe  it 
flows  out  of  heaven.  Let  us  return  now,  take  a  gharry, 
and  drive  up  the  steep  bank  to  the  summit,  then  along  its 
shores.  The  heat  and  dust  are  insufferable.  The  thermom- 
eter is  ranging  about  a  hundred.  Benares  ought  to  be  a 
city  of  ice  factories  instead  of  heathen  temples.  The  bottled 
soda  and  fruit  trade  revived  along  our  route,  but  the  soda 
was  the  vilest  stuff  I  ever  drank,  and  every  vessel  I  drank 
out  of  the  Hindoo  threw  it  away;  it  wras  ruined.  I  felt  like 
destroying  that  Hindoo.  They  are  as  vile  as  their  religion 


336  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

and  supers titioD.  Here  they  were  worshiping  bulls,  riv- 
ers, the  sun,  monkeys,  the  peafowl  and  other  birds.  These 
were  all  sacred;  but  that  little  mug  I  drank  out  of  was  de- 
filed. The  oranges,  mangoes,  and  bananas  were  delicious. 
I  had  bought  twenty-three  bananas  for  one  cent  and  a  half. 
I  saw  many  little  wooden  shops  and  bazaars,  shrines  and 
temples,  with  figures  of  a  bull  or  cow  in  front.  Many  pri- 
vate residences  of  more  pretentious  architecture  boasted  of 
these  sacred  representations.  There  were  carved  images  of 
their  gods  almost  before  every  door.  Such  are  for  family 
worship.  In  their  temples  they  worship  their  holy  trinity 
— images  of  Brahma,  Mahadeo,  and  Vishnu.  These  appear 
to  be  the  principal  gods  worshiped  in  Benares,  besides  the 
idols  already  mentioned.  Bishop  Marvin  gives  a  deplora- 
ble account  of  their  morals  and  religion,  which  my  own  ob- 
servation confirms.  His  ideas  are  suggestive  of  my  opinions 
on  this  branch  of  the  subject.  He  says  the  Hindoo  religion 
is  wanting  in  every  moral  element,  depraved  and  full  of 
lust.  Women  said  to  be  married  to  the  gods  dance  in  front 
of  the  temples.  A  girl  thus  chosen  is  highly  distinguished 
among  her  sex.  During  the  annual  festivals  given  here 
these  lascivious  damsels,  I  am  told,  draw  immense  crowds, 
filling  the  exchequer  of  the  temple.  Their  performances 
are  said  to  rival  the  "can-can"  at  the  "Jardin  Mabille"  in 
Paris.  Behold  those  gods,  if  you  please:  sleek,  well-fed, 
clean,  shaven-headed,  yellow-robed  priests.  Patrons  of  Ma- 
hadeo, the  god  of  lust,  they  will  bear  watching.  The  Hin- 
doo first  began  to  worship  his  idea  of  life,  then  fell  to  wor- 
shiping its  source,  which  ended  in  deifying  lust.  The  priests 
are  a  vile  set.  The  poor,  wretched  working-women  of  India 
are  the  only  class  you  will  see  outside  the  zenanas.  No- 
body will  trust  his  wife  in  India.  As  to  the  men,  from  the 
rajah  down  to  the  baboo  gentleman — their  morals  are 
corrupt.  Who  are  the  baboos?  They  are  the  learned, 


Benares,  its  Shrines  and  Temples. 


337 


THE  DYING  BRAHMAN. 

wealthy,  educated  classes.  Many  of  them  read  and  speak 
English  fluently,  and  their  ancient  Sanskrit  that  belongs  to 
their  fables,  bows  and  arrows.  They  can  even  read 
Greek,  Latin,  and  the  Rig  Veda — the  Bible  of  the  Hin- 
doos. Thousands  of  these  baboos  have  gathered  here  to 


338  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

spend  a  life  of  ease,  fashion,  and  luxury — like  the  Ameri- 
cans who  go  to  Paris  to  spend  the  remainder  of  their  days. 
Their  palaces  and  stuccoed  houses,  with  charming  gardens 
and  fountains,  are  among  the  most  splendid  I  have  seen  in 
Benares.  Even  this  class  cannot  escape  the  imputation 
charged  against  the  priesthood. 

I  visited  the  Golden  Temples  of  Bishewar  and  Bhairo- 
nath,  the  Well  of  Fate,  the  Musjid  of  Aurungzebe,  the 
celebrated  tank,  and  the  Durga,  or  Monkey  Temple.  In  a 
large  court  opening  out  in  front  of  the  Golden  Temple,  I 
saw  a  number  of  beautiful  cows  they  actually  worship. 
There  were  small  images  of  this  divinity,  in  brass,  I  could 
have  purchased  from  the  priest.  A  Hindoo  woman  passes 
before  a  large  stone  image  of  his  bovineship,  bowing,  and 
sprinkling  water  from  the  Ganges  on  his  legs  and  divine 
hoofs.  Bouquets  of  fresh  flowers  are  tied  on  his  horns  and 
tail,  while  his  neck  is  festooned,  and  little  bunches  are  stuck 
in  his  holy  nostrils.  This  golden  pagoda  of  the  holy  bull, 
in  the  court  of  Biseswara,  is  one  of  the  sights  of  Benares. 

Great  white  oxen  walk  down  the  steps  of  the  bathing 
ghats  with  the  Hindoos  into  the  Ganges.  This  shiva,  or 
divinity  of  the  bull,  is  fed  every  day  writh  melons,  rice, 
wheat,  etc.  Of  course  the  image  eats  nothing,  but  the 
priests  gather  up  the  contributions  for  their  pockets.  This 
temple  is  generally  crowded  with  women,  who  are  seeking 
the  favors  of  the  Mahadeo.  Bishop  Marvin  observes :  "  The 
symbols  under  which  this  last  are  worshiped  are  too  gross 
to  be  named."  These  women  in  India  show  as  great  pas- 
sion for  motherhood  as  the  women  "did  once  in  the  mount- 
ains of  Judea,  three  thousand  years  ago."  In  the  same  in- 
closure  I  looked  down  into  the  Well  of  Knowledge,  where, 
according  to  tradition,  some  ancient  god  sought  refuge  once. 
Here  sat  an  old  priest  drawing  up  the  holy  water  for  the 
pilgrims,  in  which  decaying  flowers,  grain,  etc.,  came  near 


Benares,  its  Shrines  and  Templ 


es. 


339 


paralyzing  my  olfactories.  These  poor,  silly,  superstitious 
people  were  actually  buying  the  water  from  the  priest.  I 
drove  on  a  mile  farther  to  the  great  tank  near  which  is  sit- 
uated the  celebrated  temple  dedicated  to  Hunnooman,  the 


DON'T  LOOK. 

monkey  god.  This  god  was  an  ancient  warrior,  who  con- 
quered Ceylon  early  in  Indian  history,  and  whose  inhab- 
itants he  found  so  small  he  compared  them  to  monkeys. 
This  warrior  was  afterward  deified,  and  has  been  wor- 
shiped ever  since  as  the  monkey  god.  His  memory  is  per- 
petuated in  brass  images,  ivory,  wood,  and  stone,  in  thou- 


340  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

sands  of  temples  throughout  India.  There  are  said  to  be 
no  less  than  thirty  thousand  pagan  temples  in  Bombay 
Presidency  alone,  a  large  number  of  which  are  dedicated  to 
this  god.  I  was  a  little  doubtful  about  approaching  this 
pagoda.  Before  I  reached  Benares,  from  what  I  learned, 
there  were  supposed  to  be  several  thousand  monkeys  sitting 
in  the  tree-tops,  hanging  by  their  tails,  or  stealing  fruit  out 
of  some  old  woman's  basket.  The  guide-books  all  declared 
the  place  as  infested  with  monkeys.  A  rumor  had  just 
reached  me  from  Nagpore  that  an  Englishman  had  been 
literally  torn  into  doll-rags  by  a  lot  of  these  vagabonds. 
As  I  was  making  the  tour  of  India  with  a  pair  of  trousers 
and  a  duster,  it  somewhat  alarmed  me.  But  I  never  was 
more  agreeably  surprised,  when  I  entered  the  gate  to  the  tem- 
ple-grounds, to  find  several  monkeys  running  to  meet  me.  I 
gave  them  rice  and  bananas.  There  was  one  unconverted  old 
heathen  who  became  greatly  alarmed  at  my  approach.  She 
made  the  top  of  the  pagoda  at  two  bounds,  and  showing  her 
teeth  at  me  disclosed  a  little  bantling  clinging  to  her  bosom. 
She  probably  concluded  I  was  trying  to  kidnap  the  young- 
ster. In  the  temple  there  is  a  hideous  idol,  with  a  lamp 
burning  before  it.  Several  worshipers  enter,  offer  flowers, 
sprinkle  water,  and  walk  out,  touching  a  bell.  Then  they 
walk  around  the  temple,  in  the  usual  manner  of  worship. 
A  few  old  men  sit  about  the  premises,  smeared  with  paint 
and  a  red  streak  across  their  foreheads,  holding  out  their 
hands  for  contributions.  The  pilgrims  bathe  in  the  large 
tank,  or  pool,  close  by,  which  they  descend  by  flights  of 
stone  steps.  Some  of  the  monkeys  are  disposed  to  dispute 
the  right  to  their  territory.  They  run  up  the  trees,  sit  on 
the  fence,  and  jump  on  the  wall,  for  a  skirmish  with  the 
foreigners.  They  all  seem  to  be  a  degenerate  species,  de- 
scended from  illustrious  ancestors.  They  probably  belong 
to  the  "spider  family." 


Benares^  its  Shrines  and  Temples.  341 


SCENE  AT  MONKEY  TEMPLE  IN  BENARES. 


342 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


CONTESTED   GROUND. 


Benares  is  the  Paris  of  India  in  fashion,  taste,  and  cult- 
ure. It  is  the  Athens  of  Greece  in  science,  learning,  and 
philosophy.  The  broad  steps  of  the  bathing  ghats  are 
thronged  morning  and  evening  with  men  and  women,  the 
youth,  beauty,  and  fashion,  to  gossip  and  discuss  the  events 
of  the  day,  remarks  the  Kev.  C.  C.  Coffin.  The  Brahmans, 
or  priestly  caste,  have  ghats  of  their  own.  There  is  an  im- 
mense deal  of  scrubbing  and  swabbing  out  of  ears,  nose,  and 
mouth  with  the  holy  mud  and  water.  Near  the  burning 
ghats  were  conical  stones  set  upright  to  show  where  the  sut- 


Benares,  its  Shrines  and  Temples.  343 

tee  had  once  occurred,  when  the  widow  had  preferred  to  be 
burned  alive  with  her  husband  rather  than  live.  A  little 
ghee,  or  butter,  is  used  in  burning  the  body  among  the  rich, 
which  the  poor  cannot  afford.  After  the  Hindoo  dead  are 
thus  burned  their  ashes  are  thrown  into  the  Ganges. 

Where  the  population  is  so  dense,  as  it  is  in  India,  with 
a  tropical  climate  to  contend  with,  cremation  may  be  justi- 
fied on  sanitary  grounds.  Though  it  is  not  a  Christian 
burial,  it  seems  far  preferable  to  the  Mohammedan  method 
of  burying  the  body  in  the  sand  without  a  coffin.  Thou- 
sands of  bones  may  be  seen  in  their  grave-yards,  dug  up 
and  picked  by  the  jackals,  throughout  India.  The  bodies 
of  little  children  are  often  thrown  into  the  Ganges  with- 
out having  been  burned  at  all.  It  is  said  the  alligators  are 
observed  sometimes  struggling  over  the  dead  bodies  floating 
down  the  Ganges. 

My  guide  showed  me  a  whole  street  devoted  to  work  in 
brass.  Here  the  Hindoos  sit  cross-legged,  with  their  rude 
tools,  manufacturing  the  vessels  they  drink  out  of,  eat  from, 
cook  in,  and  in  which  they  bear  on  their  heads  the  holy  water 
from  the  Ganges.  They  are  fond  of  engraving  or  carving 
some  favorite  god,  especially  on  the  bells  they  make.  They 
also  manufacture  many  of  their  favorite  divinities  worshiped 
in  the  temples. 

My  guide  carried  me  down  a  very  narrow  lane,  scarcely 
six  feet  wide,  with  tall  houses  on  either  side,  towering  above 
us,  to  see  a  temple  and  an  old  mosque,  very  celebrated.  The 
temple  was  full  of  idols  and  bells,  with  lamps  burning  be- 
fore the  altar.  The  interior  was  carved  in  bass-relief,  rep- 
resenting many  objects  of  Hindoo  worship.  I  was  not  al- 
lowed to  enter  the  temple,  but  one  of  the  priests  ran  out 
and  threw  a  wreath  of  flowers  over  my  head.  I  gave  him 
a  little  backshish,  and  he  went  away  perfectly  happy.  Ex- 
tending our  walk  to  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  we  ascended 


344  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

by  a  narrow,  steep  flight  of  stone  steps  to  the  flat  roof  of  the 
mosque  Madoo-rai-ke-dharara.  Its  two  slender  white  min- 
arets rise  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  above  the  ground. 
The  mosque  is  little  used  now.  From  these  minarets  the 
muezzin  formerly  called  the  faithful  to  prayer.  In  front 
I  saw  immense  bee-hives,  or  wasp-nests,  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  ground,  from  which  there  issued  an  incessant  buzz 
like  distant  thunder.  The  minarets  command  a  landscape 
of  rare  beauty. 

The  Brahma  and  the  Prophet  do  not  agree  any  more 
than  the  Jews  and  Samaritans  did  in  ancient  times.  Ben- 
ares is  a  Hindoo  city  now,  and  this  old  mosque — probably 
built  out  of  Hindoo  temples  torn  down  in  the  eleventh  cent- 
ury by  the  Mohammedans — is  little  used  at  present. 

The  city  of  Benares  appears,  like  Delhi,  to  have  shifted 
its  site  many  times  in  the  past  thirty  centuries,  probably 
owing  to  the  fickle  Ganges.  One  of  the  oldest  sites  is  at 
Sarnath,  four  miles  distant,  which  we  can  see  from  this 
lofty  minaret.  We  can  see  an  immense  tower,  or  mound, 
constructed  of  brick  ten  by  sixteen  inches,  according  to 
Dr.  Hendrix,  who  measured  them.  The  outside  is  cased 
with  carved?  stone,  secured  by  iron  clamps.  Buddha,  like 
King  Asoka,  whether  by  his  edict  or  those  who  followed 
him,  seems  to  have  left  these  testimonials  to  his  life.  This 
is  one  of  four  pillars  of  this  kind  erected  that  remains.  It 
measures  ninety-three  feet  at  the  base,  and  rises  more  than 
one  hundred  feet  in  height.  He.re  Buddha  taught  his  dis- 
ciples six  hundred  years  before  Christ  was  born,  promul- 
gating his  doctrines  against  the  idolatry  of  the  Brahmans, 
which  too  was  carved  on  these  towers  or  pillars.  Finally 
Buddha's  image  was  placed  upon  the  carved  stonework  of 
the  •  monuments  and  worshiped.  Then  his  image  was  set 
up  in  the  temples,  for  when  Buddhism  ceased  to  be  a  pro- 
test against  idolatry  it  lost  its  power,  observes  Dr.  Hendrix. 


Benares,  its  Shrines  and  Temples.  345 

Immediately  below  us  nestles  the  city  of  Benares,  with  its 
vast  expanse  of  tiled  roofs,  minarets,  and  spires,  and  the 
domes  of  its  five  thousand  pagodas,  shrines,  and  temples. 
Four  hundred  feet  below  me  rolls  the  mighty  Ganges.  We 
can  trace  its  course  for  miles  away,  through  green  fields, 
fertile  meadows,  and  groves  of  palms.  Beyond  the  city  are 
the  gardens  and  native  villages,  conspicuous  for  their  white 
pagodas ;  and  away  to  the  north-west  the  lofty  Himalayas 
lift  their  snowy  summits  in  unapproachable  grandeur.  We 
can  hear  the  hum  of  thousands  of  voices  and  tramp  of  many 
feet  below  us.  From  this  lofty  balcony  the  muezzin  calls 
to  prayer.  But  Buddhism  received  its  death-blow  from  the 
Mohammedanism  which  forced  it  south  to  Ceylon,  then  east 
into  China  and  Japan,  where  it  made  millions  of  converts. 
It,  too,  is  rapidly  declining.  The  dominant  religion  to-day 
is  Brahmanism,  or  Hindooism,  which  existed  before  Bud- 
dhism in  India.  It,  too,  is  yielding  rapidly  to  the  superior 
forces  of  European  civilization,  the  mission  and  Government 
schools,  colleges,  telegraphs,  telephones,  railroads,  and 
Church  work.  Two  millions  or  more  of  Christian  converts 
are  among  the  fruits  of  this  great  revolution  now  in  prog- 
ress. Here  in  Benares,  where  all  the  power  of  Hindooism, 
with  its  vile  religion,  seems  concentrated,  the  missionary 
work  has  accomplished  but  little.  The  proscription  of  re- 
ligion is  as  unrelenting  among  the  Hindoos  as  it  is  among 
the  Mormons  in  Salt  Lake  City.  Let  a  Hindoo  become  a 
Christian  and  he  is  an  outcast  for  life.  He  loses  mother, 
father,  wife,  and  children,  to  say  nothing  of  the  loss  of  his 
property.  A  German  missionary  informed  me  he  knew  a 
wealthy  baboo  gentleman,  converted  thirty  years  ago,  who 
had  never  been  recognized  since  by  his  wife  or  children. 
But  the  baboo  holds  on  to  Christ  against  the  oppositions  of 
his  idolatrous  family. 

When   this   temple  worship  in  Benares  is   broken  up, 


346  Around  the  World  in  188 4. 

Othello's  occupation  is  gone.  The  business  of  the  city  and 
its  religion — the  manufacture  of  heathen  gods,  selling  of 
holy  water  to  the  millions  of  pilgrims,  images  of  wood  and 
brazen  gods — with  thirty  thousand  Brahman  priests,  who 
guard  the  religious  interests  of  its  shrines  and  temples,  con- 
stitute it  a  veritable  stronghold  of  Brahmanism.  But  there 
is  a  marked  difference  discernible  even  among  these  bigoted 
priests,  who  thirty-five  years  ago  had  only  to  clap  their 
hands  when  the  poor  sudra  was  approaching  to  see  him  fly 
in  dismay,  and  sometimes  throw  himself  into  the  river  for 
fear  of  polluting  the  holy  man's  presence. 

About  four  miles  north  of  the  Ganges  is  the  Cantonment, 
or  European  quarter,  where  the  English  troops  and  a  few 
missionaries  reside.  There  is  a  good  hotel  in  this  part  of 
the  city;  but  I  returned  across  the  river  to  the  railroad  sta- 
tion, wrhere  I  awaited  my  train  for  Calcutta.  I  had  seen  no 
"tourist"  during  the  day,  or  any  one,  except  my  guide  and 
another  Hindoo,  who  could  even  understand  a  word  I  would 
say.  I  was  getting  very  lonesome  under  such  surroundings. 
You  can  appreciate  the  pleasant  change  at  the  station  on 
my  meeting  two  English  boys — one  a  telegraph  operator, 
and  the  other  a  bright  lad  of  sixteen  summers — who  ex- 
tended me  a  cordial  welcome.  The  lad  entertained  me 
with  stories  of  Hindoo  life,  manners  and  customs  of  this 
historic  race,  until  late  at  night.  He  was  a  son  of  an  En- 
glish officer  living  in  the  Cantonment.  He  described  the 
annual  festival  given  to  Pruyag,  the  moon  god.  The  barber- 
shops scattered  up  and  down  the  Ganges  among  millions 
of  pilgrims,  shaving  of  heads  and  casting  in  the  hairs  for 
heaven  during  the  mela,  I  have  already  noticed  at  Allaha- 
bad. He  told  me  every  Hindoo  living  in  sight  of  Benares 
believes  when  he  dies  he  will  go  straight  to  heaven.  He 
had  seen  aged  men,  eighty  and  ninety  years  old,  who  had 
traveled  for  days  and  weeks  to  reach  the  sacred  Gauges, 


Benares,  its  Shrines  and  Temples.  347 

topple  off  its  banks  into  the  river  and  float  away  on  its 
bosom,  dead,  to  heaven.  I  have  seen  these  Brahman  priests, 
after  every  hair  had  been  removed  from  the  Hindoo's  head 
and  cast  into  the  river,  tie  a  white  string  called  the  sacred 
cord  around  their  necks  and  insure  them  entrance  into  par- 
adise. He  remarked  he  had  often  heard  that  the  priest, 
after  tying  this  sacred  cord,  had  power  of  life  and  death 
over  his  subject,  but  did  not  know  how  true  it  was. 

"  Tell  me  something  about  marrying  in  India,  won't  you  ?  " 
Certainly.  Everybody  marries  here  in  India — I  mean  the 
natives;  it  is  a  disgrace  not  to  be  married.  The  old  folks 
always  make  the  matches  here.  There  is  no  moonlight  sail- 
ing on  the  Gauges,  or  buggy  drives  down  the  boulevards  of 
Benares.  There  is  no  chance  to  make  a  "mash"  here.  Ev- 
ery boy  and  girl  is  married  before  they  know  it.  They  are 
engaged  by  their  parents  at  three  to  five,  and  never  wrear 
the  veil  until  married.  They  never  marry  out  of  their 
caste.  The  celebration  of  this  event  occurs  at  ten  to  twelve 
years  of  age.  In  the  meantime  they  may  never  have  seen 
each  other.  The  marriage  is  celebrated  with  the  greatest 
pomp  possible.  They  will  sell  or  mortgage  the  last  rupee's 
worth  of  property  to  have  a  street  pageant,  which  consists 
of  a  bridal  car  made  in  the  shape  of  a  peafowl,  one  of  their 
favorite  divinities.  In  front  goes  the  piper  and  behind  the 
priest,  with  lighted  torches  at  the  head  of  the  procession. 
All  the  friends  join  in  the  festivities,  make  presents,  and 
do  honor  to  the  newly  married  couple.  If  he  is  rich,  he 
puts  his  wife  into  the  zenana,  where  no  other  man  will 
ever  see  her ;  if  he  is  poor,  he  and  his  bride  take  a  horse- 
back ride  together,  then  go  to  their  village  huts  to  scuffle 
for  a  bare  living.  The  wife  works  in  the  field,  and  her 
husband  sits  up  in  the  house  cross-legged  and  does  the  fam- 
ily sewing.  If  she  dies,  he  can  marry  again.  If  he  dies, 
she  used  to  throw  herself  with  him  upon  the  funeral  pyro 


348 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


WEDDING  PROCESSION. 


and  perish  with  him.  But  she  cannot  do  that  now.  Our 
Government  has  abolished  the  suttee,  and  she  lingers  out 
a  life  of  drudgery,  disgrace,  and  ruin.  If  her  betrothed 
dies  before  she  ever  marries  him,  she  is  a  widow  for  life. 

"How  do  you  like  India?"  O  very  well ;  but  it  is  awfully 
hot  here.  We  can  keep  cool,  however,  with  the  punka- 
boy  and  ice.  You  know  we  have  no  frost  or  winter;  it  is 
always  spring.  Our  seasons  are  wet  and  dry,  but  our  fall 
and  winter  months  are  perfectly  delicious  in  Benares. 
Everybody  who  can  get  away  goes  to  the  mountains,  or- 
home  on  furlough,  during  the  hot  season,  which  begins  inj 
April  and  ends  in  October.  The  natives  can  stand  anyi 
thing. 


Benares,  its  Shrines  and  Temples. 


349 


"What  about  cholera?"  O  it  is  fearful  here  among  the 
Hindoos.  If  it  were  not  for  cholera  and  famine,  India  and 
China  would  soon  become  so  populous  the  people  could  not 
live.  Everybody  marries ;  everybody  nearly  has  children. 
On  the  banks  of  this  river,  the  Ganges,  is  the  birthplace 
of  Asiatic  cholera.  It  originates  at  these  festivals  I  have 
been  describing  to  you.  About  five  hundred  miles  up  the 


MIDNIGHT  FESTIVAL. 

Ganges,  at  Hurdwar,  in- the  Punjab,  is  its  favorite  nursery. 
It  does  not  naturally  exist  or  originate  there;  but  these 
semi-annual  festivals  seem  to  develop  it.  As  many  as  three 
million  pilgrims  have  assembled  at  Hurdwar  on  these  oc- 
casions. Day  and  night  the  continuous  stream  pours  in  on 


350  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  sandy  plain,  nearly  all  on  foot,  by  every  thoroughfare, 
from  every  part  of  India.  There  is  no  sanitary  protection. 
They  huddle  like  swine.  Occasionally  a  great  rajah,  with 
his  caravan  of  elephants,  camels,  horsemen,  and  swords- 
men, in  all  the  stately  grandeur  of  Indian  royalty,  rides 
down  the  poor  wretches  under  foot  for  blocking  the  way. 
Many  have  died  on  the  roads  before  reaching  Hurdwar. 
Once  here,  they  rush  into  the  Ganges,  scoop  up  the  water  in 
their  hands,  and  drink  as  long  as  they  can  stand.  They  are 
fed  daily  from  the  temple  kitchens,  where  eighty  thousand 
cooks  are  employed.  The  food  not  eaten  every  day  is 
sacred ;  it  is  kept  over,  and  cannot  be  thrown  away.  The 
hot  water,  sand,  heat,  and  stale  food  produce  indigestion. 
Derangement  sets  in.  They  begin  to  die,  are  covered  over 
in  the  sand,  and  returning  die  along  the  roads  by  thousands. 
The  streets  of  villages  are  blocked  where  they  lie  in  heaps 
and  perish.  The  result  is  cholera.  From  the  interior  it 
reaches  the  sea-ports,  and  is  then  carried  westward  by  the 
shipping  and  returning  pilgrims.  Mecca,  which  you  passed 
on  your  left  coming  down  the  Red  Sea,  is  another  hot-bed 
from  which  cholera  spreads.  Between  Delhi  and  Benares 
lies  the  North-west  Province;  between  Benares  and  Cal- 
cutta, Bengal. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

DOWN  THE  GANGES. 

IT  is  more  than  five  hundred  miles  from  Benares  to  Cal- 
cutta. In  a  few  miles  we  reach  Mogul  Serai,  and  change 
cars  for  our  destination.  An  American  conductor  very 
kindly  assigned  me  to  a  compartment  by  myself,  where  I 
could  enjoy  the  remainder  of  the  night  in  a  peaceful  sleep. 
This  gentleman  is  the  only  American  I  have  seen  since 
meeting  my'  friend  Henry  Ballantyne,  of  Bombay.  The 


Down  the  Ganges. 


officials  generally  are  a  very  attentive  class.  They  are  us- 
ually polite,  and  use  the  word  "kindly"  very  often — "Will 
you  kindly  take  your  seat?"  Every  passenger  takes  his 
baggage  on  the  seat  with  him,  unless  it  be  too  bulky.  Then 
for  a  couple  of  pice — less  than  a  cent — the  coolie,  who  *s  al- 
ways convenient,  carries  it  to  the  baggage-box.  There  is 
no  such  institution  as  the  "baggage-smasher"  in  India. 

The  Government  owns  the  telegraph  lines,  and  you  can 
send  a  telegram  like  a  letter  for  a  fixed  price  to  any  point 
in  British  India — for  about  one  rupee,  or  fifty  cents,  for  ten 
words,  including  address.  The  natives  are  largely  employed 
in  this  service;  and  what  seems  a  little  odd,  night  messages 
here  are  charged  double  rates,  instead  of  half  as  in  America. 
An  engineer  is  called  a  driver,  who  keeps  his  eye  constantly 
out  the  left  window  to  see  that  the  track  is  clear  ahead. 
An  omnibus  in  India  passes  to  the  left,  instead  of  the  right 
as  with  us.  A  conductor,  I  told  you,  is  called  a  guard,  as 
in  England.  Every  native  knows  that  to  be  an  employe  he 
must  be  able  to  speak  English. 

The  present  Governor-general,  Lord  Eipon,  has  recently 
incurred  the  displeasure  of  his  English  subjects  in  some 
discriminations  he  has  made  in  favor  of  the  natives.  The 
opinions  of  the  English,  I  find,  are  very  low  as  to  the  average 
Indian.  The  coolie  is  a  beast  of  burden.  The  Bengalese 
are  by  nature  and  instinct,  the  Englishman  says,  liars  and 
thieves.  These  people  are  sometimes  badly  treated  by  their 
English  masters.  I  have  myself  seen  them  kicked  about, 
and  have  listened  to  stories  of  Englishmen  who  had  given 
some  Hindoo  a  good  drubbing,  or  "pounding,"  as  he  had 
declared  the  native  deserved.  Our  freedman  is  a  lord  com- 
pared to  the  coolie  of  India.  I  have  seen  slavery  in  Cuba 
and  in  my  own  country,  but  rf  was  mild  compared  to  the 
servile  labor  of  Hindoostan.  Lord  Macaulay,  in  his  histo- 
ry, gives  a  doleful  account  of  the  Bengalese'.  He  makes 


352  Around  the  World  in  18SJh 

him  a  "  hero  of  lies  and  champion  of  theft."  A  Hindoo 
was  one  day  asked  who  was  the  smartest  man  in  India. 
"My  son,"  he  promptly  replied.  "Why?"  "Because  he 
can  beat  his  father  lying."  But  I  like  the  Hindoo.  He 
constantly  soothes  my  ear  wTith  that  old  familiar  expression 
of  "  master."  I  begin  to  feel  wealthy  again.  Could  it  be  pos- 
sible that  the  earth  in  making  its  revolutions  from  west  to 
east  had  just  changed  our  geographical  position?  At  every 
station,  it  seemed,  we  saw  the  old  Georgia  darky,  with  the 
kinks  combed  out  of  his  head,  cultivating  cotton,  corn,  wheat, 
rice,  sweet  potatoes,  water-melons,  and  "goobers"  away  off 
here  in  India.  "  Good  master,"  they  would  say.  I  saw  some 
who  looked  like  Jake,  old  Dick,  Ned,  and  Millyan,  I  used 
to  own.  I  thought,  What  a  wonderful  change  twenty  years 
has  made  in  niy  people !  They  all  appeared  to  have  for- 
gotten how  to  speak  the  dear  old  language,  and  only  remem- 
bered "  master."  George  and  Sarah  Ann  had  fallen  into  care- 
less habits  about  their  dress.  They  did  not  appear  to  have 
any  clothes  on  worth  mentioning.  All  had  gone  astray  after 
heathen  gods,  and  no  longer  reveled  in  fat  pork,  pease,  hoe- 
cake,  and  potatoes.  I  looked  into  a  little  temple  close 
by  and  found  old  Dick  worshiping  the  image'  of  a  hog. 
Twenty  years  ago  he  would  have  destroyed  that  animal  in 
a  few  minutes.  I  could  not  account  for  all  this  transmigra- 
tion, this  sudden  change,  until  I  awoke  from  a  dream. 

We  pass  through  the  great  opium-producing  region  of 
India — the  beautiful  level  lands  of  Behar,  producing  the 
white  poppy  from  which  opium  is  made.  This  species 
yields  a  white  flower  with  a  single  petal.  Every  evening 
the  pod  is  pierced,  and  early  next  morning  the  coolies  pass 
along  the  rows,  scrape  off  what  has  oozed  out  the  night  be- 
fore. This  juice  is  then  d?ied  into  cakes,  packed  in  boxes, 
and  sold  at  the  monthly  sales  in  Patna  and  Calcutta.  Later 
In  the  day  fields  of  rice  alternated  with  the  poppy,  since  the 


MOUNTAINS  OP  INDIA. 


Down  the  Ganges.  353 


fields  of  wheat  and  barley  have  disappeared.  There  are 
patches  of  tobacco  and  oats,  and  many  strips  of  sorghum, 
millet,  and  genuine  sugar-cane  of  diminutive  size.  I  have 
seen  considerable  lands  devoted  to  the  Palma  Christi,  or 
castor-oil  bean,  which,  like  the  poppy,  grows  so  well  in 
Georgia. 

We  pass  numerous  villages  of  straw  houses  daubed  with 
mud.  The  huts  often  stand  so  close  together  that  foot- 
passengers  have  just  enough  room  to  go  between.  They 
present  an  appearance  of  utter  confusion.  Very  often 
the  sides  and  roof  of  the  lowly  thatched  cottage  are  con- 
structed entirely  of  palm-leaves.  We  see  cotton-patches  in 
April  still  in  bloom,  full  of  women  and  children  picking 
out  the  fleecy  staple.  The  seeds  are  sown  broadcast,  as  de- 
scribed on  the  west  coast  of  India.  Tall  palms  wave  their 
feathery  plumes  over  the  level  landscape,  with  the  nuts 
clinging  to  the  body  just  below  the  limbs.  The  natives 
running  up  and  down  these  trees  after  the  nuts,  which  they 
gather  and  tie  around  their  waists,  resemble  monkeys  at  a 
short  distance.  They  wear  on  their  heels  a  strap  with  sharp 
spikes  bristling  out,  which  enables  them  to  make  the  ascent 
and  descent  very  rapidly.  Mustard  is  extensively  culti- 
vated, and  shipped  to  Italy  to  adulterate  the  olive-oil,  while 
another  oil-bearing  plant  (an  annual)  called  seasame  enters 
largely  into  the  exports  of  India.  No  less  than  eighty- 
seven  thousand  tons  of  its  seed  were  shipped  last  year  to 
France  for  adulterating  olive-oil.  Two  crops  a  year  can 
be  grown,  requiring  twelve  seed  to  weigh  an  ounce.  Next 
to  cotton  and  opium,  indigo  probably  is  the  most  profitable 
crop  cultivated  in  Lower  Bengal.  Thirty  dollars  per  acre 
net  profit  is  realized.  English  capital  and  farmers  are 
largely  engaged  in  its  production.  Sometimes  ten  miles 
square  is  farmed  out  among  the  ryots,  who  work  two  or 
three  miles  around  their  villages. 
23 


354  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

We  are  now  in  the  latitude  of  Cuba,  traveling  every  day 
toward  the  equator.  Groves  of  delicious  mangoes,  resem- 
bling an  apple-orchard,  break  the  monotony  of  the  land- 
scape. Cocoa-nuts  and  bananas  are  very  abundant,  clus- 
tering about  the  native  villages,  while  the  vast  expanse  of 
the  country  presents  an  unbroken  rice-field.  Little  ter- 
races, or  ditches,  are  constructed  to  hold  the  water,  and  it 
is  astonishing  to  see  what  crops  this  Valley  of  the  Ganges 
produces,  cultivated  as  it  has  been  for  two  thousand  years 
in  the  rudest  way,  without  any  manures  whatever.  All 
grain  is  planted  in  rows,  and  cut  with  a  sickle.  Not  a  straw 
or  head  is  lost.  Cotton-stalks  are  burned  for  fuel;  trees 
dug  up  by  the  roots  and  sold  by  the  pound,  as  in  China. 
Even  the  animal  manures  are  carefully  dried  and  trans- 
ported on  donkeys  to  market,  driven  by  the  poor  women, 
who,  like  the  little  brutes  they  follow,  are  very  degraded. 
Often  the  poor  Hindoos  are  compelled  from  necessity  to  use 
these  dried  cakes  for  cooking,  and  cremation  of  their  dead. 
A  woman  and  a  donkey  stand  on  the  same  level  in  India. 

Messrs.  Cummings  and  Ashford,  of  the  East  India  Rail- 
way Company,  inform  me  they  pay  their  hands  each  four 
to  five  rupees  per  month,  the  hands  finding  themselves.  Me- 
chanics get  eight  to  ten  rupees  per  month,  while  labor  for 
making  cotton  receives  only  two  annas  by  the  village,  six 
cents  each  a  day  for  women,  and  children  four  cents,  finding 
themselves.  They  say  white  mustard  is  sown  with  wheat  to 
prevent  rust  in  Northern  India. 

I  met  Mr.  Burgess,  a  most  interesting  English  indigo- 
planter,  who  has  spent  many  years  with  the  Hindoos,  liv- 
ing alone  with  them  in  their  villages.  He  speaks  Bengalee 
fluently.  From  his  account  the  nobility,  native  princes 
(rajahs),  and  the  railroads  own  most  of  the  lands  in  his 
section,  which  are  all  cultivated  by  bullocks.  As  soon  as 
the  rains  begin  in  May  cr  June  the  land  is  broken  and  sown 


Down  the  Ganges.  355 


in  drills,  or  broadcast.  In  this  way  three  crops  of  linseed, 
mustard,  and  gram  are  produced  in  one  year,  being  cul- 
tivated by  villages.  The  rajah  who  owns  the  laud  rents  to 
the  ryot,  who  sub-lets  it  to  the  village.  A  bigah  of  land  is 
equal  to  one-third  of  an  acre,  and  fifteen  thousand  bigahs, 
or  five  thousand  acres,  is  the  usual  amount  of  land  culti- 
vated by  a  village.  It  costs  for  rent  one  rupee  and  foi^r 
annas  per  acre  (sixty-two  and  a  half  cents).  An  addition- 
al tax  of  two  pice,  or  nearly  one  cent,  is  levied  on  each 
hand  for  working  public  roads. 

Mr.  Burgess  confirms  all  I  had  heard  of  caste  among 
these  strange  people.  He  observed  a  low  caste  Hindoo  one 
day  pass  near  by  a  high  caste  man  cooking  his  dinner.  Un- 
fortunately the  shadow  of  the  low  caste  man  fell  on  the  pot. 
It  was  immediately  emptied  of  its  contents,  as  those  vegeta- 
bles were  everlastingly  ruined.  They  will  not  drink  out  of 
or  eat  from  any  vessel  used  by  a  lower  caste  than  themselves. 

Mr.  Burgess  had  witnessed  many  a  burial.  The  Hindoo 
selects  a  river-bank,  if  a  stredkn  is  near.  The  hands  of  the 
dead  man  are  first  bent  backward  and  tied,  the  body  is  then 
placed  on  a  raised  platform  upon  a  pile  of  fagots,  or  wood. 
A  little  ghee,  or  butter,  is  poured  over  the  corpse,  which 
hastens  the  cremation.  If  yellow  fever  or  small-pox  is  epi- 
demic, the  victim  is  always  hurried  away  a  little  before 
death  and  placed  upright  first  in  a  deep  hole  dug  in  the 
ground — is  never  allowed  to  die  in  the  house.  In  all  the 
cities  they  have  burning  ghats. 

Mr.  Burgess  says  all  his  girls  are  engaged  to  be  married. 
They  tie  a  little  red  string  around  their  necks  to  indicate 
their  engagements.  They  all  wear  them.  If  a  Hindoo 
makes  five  rupees  a  month  he  will  save  three.  If  a  Mo- 
hammedan earns  three  he  will  spend  six.  The  Hindoos  are 
vegetarians;  the  Mohammedans  eat  meat,  and  are  the  ag- 
gressive race  of  India. 


356  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Doing  penance  is  an  ancient  custom  among  the  Hin- 
doos. It  is  a  frightful  form  of  punishment.  For  illustra- 
tion :  If  a  Hindoo  neglects  his  cow  and  she  dies,  he  must  do 
penance.  The  priest  says:  "You  must  go  to  a  temple  a 
thousand  miles  away.  Every  step  must  be  measured."  To 
do  this  the  poor  criminal  is  furnished  a  stick  to  measure  the 
length  of  his  arm  when  he  has  thrown  his  body  prostrate 
on  the  ground.  Rising  and  placing  his  feet  at  the  distance 
measured,  he  throws  himself  again  full-length  upon  his  face 
and  hands  until  he  reaches — if  ever  he  does — the  pagoda, 
where  he  will  obtain  forgiveness.  He  is  fed  along  the  way. 
But  very  few  ever  reach  their  destination. 

I  always  imagined  a  jungle  in  India  an  impenetrable 
swamp,  full  of  tigers,  lions,  cobras,  and  elephants.  I  never 
more  can  be  mistaken.  Any  waste  land  here  is  called  a 
jungle.  It  need  not  have  a  tree  or  swamp  on  it.  A  jungle 
is  associated  with  the  wild  boars  which  the  Englishman  is 
so  fond  of  hunting.  This  sport  occurs  in  mango-time,  when 
the  boars  are  very  tender  and  sweet,  but  are  mostly  hunted 
in  our  winter  months  as  well.  The  sport  is  called  "pig 
sticking."  It  is  the  passion  of  the  English  gentry ;  and 
even  their  ladies,  I  believe,  often  follow  in  the  exciting 
chase.  This  wild  hog  is  a  native  of  India.  When  he  i» 
hunted  the  natives  are  employed  to  drive  him  out  of  the 
scrub  of  grass,  or  jungle,  when  the  exciting  pursuit  on 
horseback  begins.  The  boar,  vigorously  pursued,  soon 
turns  upon  his  enemy  in  a  hand-to-hand  engagement.  If. 
the  pig  is  stuck,  that  is  the  end  of  it ;  but  if  the  sportsman 
misses  his  deadly  aim,  the  savage  animal  may  cut  down  his 
horse  to  the  ground  by  a  single  stroke  of  his  monstrous 
tusk.  I  presume  the  sportsman  then  would  be  non  in- 
ventns  est. 

The  pack-animals  used  in  India  are  the  buffalo,  ox,  cam- 
el, donkey,  with  an  occasional  mule  switched  into  the  pro- 


Down  the  Ganges.  357 


cession.  The  last  is  very  rare.  The  donkeys,  like  those 
of  Jaffa,  are  of  a  very  small  species.  Some  of  them  must 
be  less  than  three  feet  high.  And  yet,  like  the  ox  and  buf- 
falo, they  bear  their  proportionate  heavy  burden.  They 
water  the  streets  in  Bombay  by  oxen,  from  enormous  leather 
sacks  suspended  from  their  backs  on  either  side.  I  think 
the  water  must  be  poured  in  on  top  of  their  backs.  A  man 
walks  along-side  with  his  hand  on  the  neck  of  the  sack, 
which  he  flirts  about,  slackening  his  grip  to  shoot  a  jet  out 
on  the  dusty  street.  This  seems  to  answer  the  purpose 
about  as  well  as  a  donkey  does  for  a  street-car  in  Cairo. 

The  native  carts  look  as  odd  as  their  variety  is  great. 
The  camel-wagons,  on  low  wheels,  with  bottom  story  for 
freight  and  upper  story  for  passengers,  are  a  singular  com- 
bination of  incongruities.  Then  you  see  the  old-fashioned 
truck-wheel,  such  as  I  used  to  saw  off  of  a  log  and  bore  a 
hole  through  the  center  when  I  was  a  boy.  I  have  seen 
another  jaunty  little  two- wheeler  with  a  long  pair  of  shafts 
for  a  pony,  with  a  body  of  bamboo,  and  seat  built  over  the 
axle.  Sometimes  the  work  on  this  turnout  is  quite  elab- 
orate, but  I  think  they  ought  to  sell  by  the  dozen  at  seven- 
ty-five dollars. 

Bishop  Marvin  has  so  well  described  that  odd  creature, 
that  contradiction  of  nature  called  the  camel,  I  must  give 
him  credit  for  the  following  account.  It  is  capital : 

Of  all  dumb  brutes  I  have  ever  seen  the  camel  is  the 
most  unshapely.  With  his  long  hind  legs,  barely  tacked  to 
his  body ;  the  hump  on  his  back  like  a  hideous  deformity ; 
his  little,  long,  round  neck,  taking  a  start  downward  and 
then  turning  up  as  if  drawn  by  a  convulsion;  the  two 
straight  fore  legs  set  under  the  chest  like  stilts — he  stands 
before  you  in  an  apologetic  attitude,  as  if  he  were  asking 
pardon  of  the  universe  for  having  been  obtruded  upon  it. 
Add  to  this  the  miserable  h.ad,  set  on  the  upturned  end  of 


358  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  neck,  with  the  facial  line  from  the  ear  to  the  unhappy- 
looking  nostrils  level  with  the  horizon,  looking  like  a  statue 
of  misery,  a  mute,  perpetual  appeal  for  pity,  and  you  have 
the  ideal  of  ugly  standing  before  you  eight  feet  high. 

We  pass  near  Golconda.  Who  has  not  heard  of  its  fame 
and  priceless  treasure?  It  is  situated  in  Hyderabad  (Dec- 
can),  and  is  famous  for  its  old  fort,  in  which  the  treasure 
of  State  is  deposited.  The  Presidency,  in  1881,  boasted  of 
ninety-one  million  souls.  There  are  two  clubs — civil  and 
military — and  a  small  hotel  here.  I  defy  a  whole  village 
to  pronounce  the  name  of  the  Eajah.  It  is  enough  to  par- 
alyze a  large  community.  Here  is  his  card:  Muzzaffur- 
ul-Mumulik  Nizam -ul-Mulk- Nizam -nd-Dowlah,  Nawab 
Mir  Mahhub  Ab  Khan  Bahadur,  Fateh  Jung.  "O  carry 
me  home  to  die!"  We  will  change  his  name.  Let  us  call 
him  Ned  Brace,  or  Bill  Arp.  He  was  appointed  last  year 
by  Governor-general  Eipon  to  succeed  some  other  Kajah 
who  had  died.  I  suppose  his  name  was  the  death  of  him. 
The  prospect  seems  good  for  another  funeral  soon. 

A  little  presence  of  mind  is  absolutely  essential  to  travel 
through  India.  The  safest  way  is  to  say  "  Good-day"  and 
pass  on.  This  country  abounds  in  marvels.  The  following 
illustration  of  a  statue  in  stone,  seen  along  the  banks  of  some 
rivers  in  the  Deccan,  demonstrates  the  stupidity  of  the  idol- 
worship.  These  images  are  cut  out  of  solid  rock  and  erect- 
ed by  wealthy  natives  upon  a  platform  three  or  four  feet  in 
height — representatives  of  the  sun  god,  I  suppose.  A  tripod 
of  sticks  is  arranged  with  a  porous  vessel  above,  through 
which  water  drops  slowly  upon  the  divinity  to  prevent  sun- 
stroke. You  will  observe  about  these  curious  structures  a 
man  who  is  paid  $2.50  a  month  for  keeping  the  bottles  filled 
with  water.  There  was  once  a  temple  erected  to  the  god 
of  murders,  called  Kali,  still  standing  on  a  hill  near 
the  city  of  Mirzapoor,  already  described,  where  the  Thugs 


CAMEL-RIDING  LN  LNDiA. 


Down  the  Ganges. 


359 


once  made  their  offerings  to  appease  the  wrath  of  this  divin- 
ity for  some  horrible  murder  they  would  commit,  first  tum- 
bling their  victim  in  the  Ganges.  It  is  one  of  the  two  tem- 
ples of  the  kind  now  standing  in  India.  The  English  long 
since  hunted  down  the  last  Thug  in  the  country,  and  human 
life  is  as  well  protected  here  as  in  any  part  of  the  world. 


AFRAID   OF   SUN-STROKE. 


Resuming  our  journey  to  Calcutta,  we  pass  rapidly 
through  the  lower  part  of  Bengal,  which  appears  to  be  de- 
voted exclusively  to  rice-growing.  Cocoa-nuts  and  mon- 
keys abound,  and  we  are  conscious,  too,  of  the  presence  of 
the  tiger,  which  this  province  has  made  famous  the  world 
over.  They  are  hunted  by  the  natives  in  the  silent,  distant 


360  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

jungles  for  their  skins  and  the  reward  offered  by  the  Gov- 
ernment. 

The  prevailing  food  of  the  Bengalese  is  rice,  which  sells 
for  one  to  two  cents  per  pound.  Fruit  and  vegetables  are 
largely  consumed  by  the  natives.  They  cook  the  rice  dry, 
and  all  the  family  eat  out  of  the  same  bowl.  At  night  they 
spread  down  their  mats  on  the  dirt  floor,  and  all  sleep  to- 
gether. If  they  have  company,  or  one  of  the  daughters 
has  just  married,  they  are  assigned  places  in  the  corner  of 
the  room.  They  have  wraps  and  blankets  sewed  up  like  a 
bag  at  one  end,  into  which  each  one  puts  his  or  her  feet, 
pulling  the  other  end  over  their  heads  and  ears,  often  out 
of  sight.  They  have  no  wash-bowls,  towels,  or  soap,  for  the 
water  is  generally  poured  on  the  hands.  I  observed  many 
brick-yards  on  the  way,  the  women,  as  usual,  molding  the 
brick  and  bearing  them  on  their  heads  to  the  yard  to  dry. 
It  was  late  at  night  before  our  long  train  drew  its  great 
length  under  the  magnificent  station-house  in  Howrah. 
Our  journey  was  ended. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

ARRIVAL  IN  CALCUTTA — THE  GREAT  EASTERN  HOTEL 
AND  MY  MORNING'S  PAPER — DESCRIPTION — SUDDEN 
DEPARTURE. 

TTOWRAH  is  in  the  suburbs  of  Calcutta,  several  miles 
JTl  distant  from  the  Great  Eastern  Hotel,  to  which  I  hur- 
ried in  a  gharry  across  the  river  Hoogly.  The  night  was 
dark  and  rainy,  relieved  by  the  occasional  flash  of  a  lamp 
that  flickered  on  the  way.  Ascending  a  labyrinth  of  stair- 
cases, I  could  discover  neither  oflice  nor  landlord.  I  looked 
down  the  vista  of  retreating  aisles  that  radiated  from  the 
great  rotunda.  They  were  filled  with  naked  coolies,  lying 


Brief  Stay  in  Cakutta. 


361 


prostrate  on  their  backs,  whose  moving  feet  up  and  down 
resembled  the  walking-beams  of  a  ship  in  motion.  These 
were  the  punka- wallers,  moving  the  ventilating  fans  inside 
by  a  cord  held  tight  between  the  large  and  second  toes,  that 
worked  in  a  little  pully  overhead.  Half  of  these  coolies, 
like  their  masters  in  the  rooms,  were  fast  asleep.  Others 
were  making  spasmodic  strokes. 


WORKING  THE  PUNKA  STANDING   UP. 

Since  I  landed  in  Egypt,  following  the  equatorial  belt 
around,  I  have  been  more  persuaded  of  the  material  as 
well  as  the  spiritual  importance  of  frequent  ablutions.  If 
a  bath  was  indispensable  to  comfort  in  Egypt,  it  becomes 
an  absolute  necessity  in  India.  No  wonder  the  Hindoo 
spends  his  happiest  hours  on  the  banks  of  his  sacred  rivers. 
As  for  me,  I  should  prefer  a  traveling  ice-house  in  India. 
I  enjoyed  a  glorious  bath  in  this  roasting  climate  last  night, 
before  retiring  to  bed,  in  the  sweetest  solitude  imaginable. 
There  was  nothing  visible  except  the  bath,  soap,  and  towels. 
There  was  not  a  wave  of  sound  that  swept  my  ear  except 


362  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  stroke  of  the  punka-coolie,  and  that  did  not  wake  the 
chirping  cricket.  I  stole  quietly  away  to  ray  sweet,  luscious 
couch,  which  consisted  of  a  sheet,  a  pillow,  and  a  mosquito- 
bar.  Why,  the  very  thought  of  a  gossamer  curtain  would 
have  oppressed  me,  with  the  thermometer  as  high  as  the 
Himalayas ! 

The  following  morning  I  was  aroused  with  a  stupefied 
sense  of  unconsciousness.  I  heard  something — it  was  a 
confused  articulation  of  sounds  that  woke  the  stillness  of 
my  ear.  It  was  the  newsman  with  an  English  paper.  As 
I  unfolded  the  journal  the  first  article  my  eye  rested  upon 
was  an  editorial.  It  read  as  follows  : 

"  We  are  pained  to  announce  the  fearful  ravages  of  small- 
pox, yellow  fever,  and  the  unprecedented  mortality  from 
cholera  in  Howrah — four  hundred  and  fifty-six  deaths  in 
twenty-four  hours." 

"Jerusalem  and  Jericho!  I  am  a  ruined  community — an 
orphan  in  a  foreign  land." 

Rushing  to  the  window  I  shouted  at  the  retreating  Hin- 
doo :  "  Hold  on  here,  Colonel,  one  minute,  please !  For  Heav- 
en's sake,  tell  me  quickly,  where  is  Howrah?  Four  hun- 
dred and  fifty-six  in  twenty-four  hours!  Desolation  and 
everlastiqg  ruin !  It  seems  like  it  will  destroy  the  oldest 
inhabitant." 

"Well,  master,  which  way  did  you  come  last  night?  By 
steamer  or  railroad  ?  " 

"Well,  yes,  exactly;  precisely  so;  by  the  East  India 
Railroad  from  Benares,  I  suppose,"  replying  hesitatingly. 

"  Jes  so,  master ;  you  came  right  through  Howrah." 

"  My  sainted  grandfather ! " 

"  Yes,  master ;  dying  by  the  thousands  in  Howrah.  The 
whole  atmosphere  is  contaminated." 

Elijah  and  the  prophets!  It  seemed  that  every  bone  in 
me  began  to  ache  at  once.  I  felt  most  uncomfortable  all 


Brief  Slay  in  Calcutta.  363 

over — my  arm  fell  almost  paralyzed  by  my  side.  There 
was  a  general  demoralization  of  the  physical  and  moral 
forces,  so  to  speak.  I  then  concluded,  perhaps,  to  take  an- 
. other  bath;  perhaps  to  escape  to  Dargeeling,  or  Mount  Ev- 
erest, whose  snowy  summits  rested  in  the  clouds.  I  then 
decided  to  take  breakfast. 

I  walked  down  the  spacious  hall  and  entered  the  vesti- 
bule. As  I  approached  the  grand  saloon  a  half  dozen  Hin- 
doos beckoned  me  with  snowy  robes  into  luxurious  seats. 
The  table  groaned  under  its  burden  of  delicious  fruits  and 
every  conceivable  viand.  The  entire  saloon  appeared  one 
vast  conservatory  of  beautiful  flowers.  The  choicest  fruits 
of  India,  the  crispest  salads,  and  lettuce  from  perennial  gar- 
dens; savory  mutton  and  joints  of  the  juiciest  roasts  of 
beef,  with  fish,  eggs,  game,  and  poultry — delicious  bread 
and  butter,  flashed  before  me.  On  either  side  the  long  ta- 
bles sat,  in  dignified  reserve,  the  titled  Englishman,  with 
his  queenly  lady,  and  almost  a  hundred  other  persons  of 
distingue  appearance.  On  my  right  was  a  cynical  old 
Scotchman,  with  polished  manners  and  dignity  that  would 
have  betrayed  the  elegant  life  and  culture  of  Ben  Jonson's 
times.  I  wanted  to  say  something.  I  desired  to  inquire 
about  the  health  of  Calcutta.  It  seemed  no  possible  cir- 
cumstance, by  way  of  introduction,  would  suggest  the  sub- 
ject. Finally,  I  ventured  to  ask  the  price  of  bagging.  I 
remembered  that  the  gunny-cloth  and  jute  with  which  we 
baled  our  cotton  crop  in  Georgia  came  from  Calcutta.  He 
was  probably  a  bagging  merchant,  a  colonel  or  general  in 
the  army.  I  addressed  him  as  Colonel.  He  begged  my 
pardon,  and  declared  that  was  not  his  title.  I  remonstrated 
with  him.  I  tried  General.  He  persisted  in  declining  all 
honors.  Had  he  been  a  Georgian  I  would  have  kindled  in 
his  bosom  the  liveliest  enthusiasm.  But  he  declared  he  pre- 
ferred to  be  called  Mister.  He  was  a  very  curious  man. 


364  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

I  began  by  inquiring  in  a  delicate  way  about  the  sanitary 
condition  of  Calcutta.  He  replied  it  was  never  better.  I 
called  his  attention  to  the  paragraph  in  the  morning's  pa- 
per. "  O  wa'all,"  he  says,  "  there  are  a  few  spasmodic  cases 
of  cholera,  but  it  amounts  to  narthing.  It  is  confined  to 
the  natives  in  Howrah.  We  Europeans  hardly  ever  have 
it.  Don't  be  alarmed,  my  friend.  Be  just  a  little  careful, 
perhaps,  about  Howrah." 

But,  says  I,  I  am  alarmed.  I  feel  like  the  spirit  of  a 
stampede  is  upon  me — a  rout,  a  riot.  I  should  escape  in  a 
balloon  in  three  minutes  if  I  had  a  provocation.  Four  hun- 
dred and  fifty -six  in  twenty-four  hours!  You  are  a  very 
conservative  class — you  Europeans.  Where  is  the  Black 
Hole  of  Calcutta?  I  shall  take  a  gharry  for  a  steam-ship 
office,  directly,  and  I  do  n't  care  to  go  about  that  locality." 
"O,"  replied  the  Colonel,  "that  is  filled  up  years  ago. 
There  is  a  beautiful  monument,  probably,  on  the  spot  now 
near  the  post-office  building." 

Do  you  know,  then,  of  a  steam-ship  leaving  Calcutta 
this  morning — in  the  next  half  hour?  It  does  not  matter 
where.  China,  Japan,  Australia,  Europe,  America;  no,  it 
is  not  possible  to  ever  see  America  again.  I  had  better  try 
some  country  in  which  I  can  enjoy  a  Christian  burial.  I 
do  n't  care  to  be  burned,  or  placed  in  the  silent  tower,  or 
left  in  a  Mohammedan  grave-yard,  where  the  jackals  of 
India  would  exhume  my  bones. 

I  employed  a  guide  and  gharry  and  hurried  down  to  the 
Messageries  steam-ship  office.  Frenchman:  "Very  sorry; 
we  have  no  ship  in  ten  days."  Then  to  Apcar  &  Co.,  the 
great  opium  agents — two  vessels  just  gone  to  China.  I  lost 
a  good  deal  of  time  inquiring  about  the  direction  of  How- 
rah. But  presently  we  drove  up  in  front  of  the  Peninsular 
and  Oriental  (English)  steam-ship  office — the  P.  and  O.  line. 
We  hurried  up  the  stone  steps  to  the  second  story  of  a  mag- 


Brief  Stay  in  Calcutta.  365 

nificent  building,  down  a  broad  aisle  into  spacious  offices, 
where  the  punkas  were  in  full  swing. 

"Good-morning,  sir;  what  can  I  do  for  you?"  inquired 
the  courteous  old  gentleman  who  was  engaged  in  writing. 

"Have  you  a  vessel  leaving  soon?" 

"  Yes,  sir ;  to-morrow  morning  at  five  sharp,  for  Colombo." 

"Give  me  passage,  please,  to  China," 

"I  am  very  sorry,  sir;  we  are  quite  full." 

"It  does  not  matter,  I  am  going.  Deck  or  the  smoke- 
stack, it  does  not  matter."  The  old  gentleman  was  evi- 
dently amused  when  I  related  my  story  to  him.  I  secured 
a  cabin  ticket  to  Hong  Kong. 

Calcutta  has  been  called  the  city  of  palaces,  from  the 
many  splendid  structures  (English)  to  be  seen  on  its  great 
thoroughfares.  The  back  streets  are  narrow  enough,  pre- 
senting unsightly  rows  of  two-story  wooden  frame  houses, 
in  which  the  natives  live  above  and  carry  on  their  manu- 
factures and  trade  below. 

Calcutta  is  the  second  largest  city  in  India,  containing  a 
half  million  population,  while  Bombay  numbers  fully  eight 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  the  principal  seat  of 
government  during  our  winter  months,  but  in  the  summer 
the  Governor,  with  all  his  records  and  aids-de-camp,  moves 
up  the  country  to  Simla  to  pass  the  hot  season.  Few  peo- 
ple except  natives  walk  in  Calcutta.  I  found  the  thermom- 
eter one  hundred,  or  over,  here  in  April.  The  natives  ride 
in  palanquins  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  two  men.  I  prefer 
the  gharry — one-horse  carriage — when  cholera  is  about.  It 
looks  more  like  business.  The  Hindoos  work  in  brass,  ivory, 
wood,  bone  clay,  and  stone.  The  finest  embroidery  is  done 
by  hand  here,  as  in  Delhi.  "VVe  saw  a  number  of  their  ba- 
zaars, and  found  their  salesmen  more  importuning  to  sell 
their  goods  than  we  had  even  seen  at  Agra  or  Delhi.  I 
found  many  pretty  works  of  art,  made  of  sandal-wood  and 


8G(>  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

richly  carved,  with  a  delicious  scent  this  aromatic  wood 
gives  out. 

The  bathing  ghat  and  the  burning  ghat  are  located  close 
on  the  banks  of  the  Hoogly  near-  by,  which  is  one  of  the  nu- 
merous mouths  of  the  Ganges.  I  saw  hundreds  of  men  and 
women  in  bathing,  and  the  barber-shops  lively  on  shore. 

No  one  can  look  at  the  Hindoo  mode  of  burial  without 
a  feeling  of  horror.  They  have  long  poles  with  which 
they  punch  up  the  fire  once  in  awhile.  It  is  surprising  to 
see  what  little  time  and  small  quantity  of  wood  are  required 
in  the  cremation  of  a  single  body.  I  have  no  doubt  a  Hin- 
doo would  be  equally  shocked  at  our  mode  of  interring  the 
body  in  the  ground  and  leaving  it  to  decay. 

India  has  been  ruled  by  many  wise  as  well  as  tyrannical 
men.  Among  this  number  we  may  mention  the  names  of 
Lord  Cornwallis,  Lord  Clive,  and  Warren  Hastings.  Lord 
Cornwallis's  fame  rose  as  high  here  as  it  fell  at  Yorktown. 
The  town-hall  presents  many  striking  portraits  and  statues 
of  distingushed  men.  It  is  one  of  the  grandest  public  build- 
ings in  Calcutta.  If  you  will  compare  the  pictures  of  the 
Hindoos  in  this  collection,  you  must  at  once  be  struck  with 
the  strong  analogy  they  bear  in  feature  to  those  of  the  Cau- 
casian race  proper.  If  his  skin  was  only  white  the  Hin- 
doo, with  his  Grecian  or  aquiline  nose,  would  be  almost  a 
perfect  type  of  the  Indo-European  race,  or  Aryan,  as  you 
may  term  it. 

The  Botanical  Gardens — originated  in  1786,  while  the 
East  India  Company  was  yet  in  power — contain  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy-two  acres,  beautifully  laid  off  with  walks 
and  broad  avenues  of  palm-trees.  Through  this  garden 
(experimental)  cinchona  and  tea  were  first  introduced  into 
India.  It  contains  a  great  variety  of  native  shrubs  and 
flowers,  and  many  exotics  from  other  countries.  Here  the 
wide-spreading  banyan-tree,  with  its  hundreds  of  aerial 


Brief  Stay  in  Calcutta.  367 

roots,  resembling  strings  dangling  in  the  air  from  extended 
limbs  seventy  feet  long,  is  to  be  seen  in  its  native  climate. 
When  once  these  roots  touch  the  ground,  small  at  first  as 
they  enter  it,  they  begin  to  grow,  and  in  a  few  years  be- 
come trees.  We  see  a  great  variety  of  finer  woods  here, 
such  as  asoke,  mahogany,  peepul,  etc.  A  monument  to 
Gen.  Kid,  the  founder  of  the  garden,  is  conspicuous  for 
its  beauty  and  position.  I  walked  through  the  Eden  Gar- 
dens, named  in  honor  of  two  ladies,  Misses  Eden,  that  were 
charmingly  beautiful. 

We  meet  thousands  of  Hindoos  throughout  India  with 
white  and  red  chalk-marks  running  horizontally  and  ver- 
tically on  their  foreheads  to  denote  they  have  been  to  the 
temple  that  day  and  have  received  a  blessing  from  the  priest. 

I  did  not  have  time  to  see  the  temple  of  Kali  Ghat,  just 
outside  the  city,  where  the  wife  of  the  murder  god,  we  no- 
ticed near  Mirzapoor,  is  worshiped.  She  is  represented  as 
holding  an  uplifted  sword  in  one  hand  ready  to  decapitate 
some  poor  victim,  while  her  bloody  tongue  is  hanging  out. 
I  presume  there  was  not  much  domestic  felicity  in  a  family 
where  there  was  so  much  tongue. 

Most  amusing  scenes  are  witnessed  at  the  market  that 
fronts  on  four  streets.  It  is  a  truly  grand  structure.  All 
the  meats  and  vegetables  of  Europe  and  America  are  offered 
for  sale,  with  a  fine  supply  of  fish.  But  what  interests  you 
most  is  to  see  everybody  on  "the  squat,"  and  hear  every- 
body shouting  in  his  curious  jargon.  They  have  stalls  for 
first,  second,  and  third  class  beef.  I  thought  of  my  man  at 
Keware,  with  his  second-class  coffee.  If  he  and  this  third- 
class  steak  man  could  strike  a  bargain,  what  an  exhaustive 
business  firm  it  would  make  I 

In  1770  no  less  than  thirty  millions  of  people  perished 
in  the  Valley  of  the  Ganges  from  famine.  In  1866  nearly 
one  million  starved  to  death  in  Orissa  and  Southern  India. 


368  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

But  the  Government  now,  by  a  system  of  railroads  from 
the  interior  and  steam  navigation  along  the  coast,  is  enabled 
to  relieve  almost  any  suffering  of  this  kind. 

I  find  the  American  missionary  work  was  begun  here  as 
early  as  the  year  1828.  The  Catholics  were  established  at 
Goa,  which  is  still  the  center  of  their  operations  in  India, 
one  hundred  years  or  more  before  this  period.  They  have 
always  realized  eminent  success  because  "  they  gratified  the 
native  taste  for  ceremony  and  display."  The  entire  Bible 
has  been  translated  into  fourteen  different  languages  and 
dialects  of  India.  In  Calcutta,  as  well  as  in  other  parts  of 
India,  there  is  a  great  desire  among  the  natives,  both  Hin- 
doos and  Mohammedans,  to  study  English.  Many  large 
schools,  under  missionary  influence  and  the  Government, 
are  in  successful  operation.  The  zenanas  are  now  easily 
reached  by  the  missionary  women,  and  much  good  work 
and  many  conversions  are  crowning  their  efforts.  There  is 
the  school  of  useful  arts  and  others  I  cannot  mention.  Some 
intelligent  natives  who  renounce  idolatry  become  Deists,  or 
Pantheists,  rather  than  Christians,  I  have  seen  stated.  This 
class  read  the  works  of  John  Stuart  Mill,  Theodore  Parker, 
and  others,  according  to  Mr.  Coffin. 

Women  afflicted  with  devils  kneel  before  an  image  and 
cross  while  the  priest  relieves  them  of  their  wicked  spirits 
by  plucking  out  handfuls  of  hair.  Sometimes  six,  eight, 
and  even  twelve  devils  are  got  rid  of  in  this  way. 

If  I  had  time  I  would  visit  the  Dargeeling  hills — one  hun- 
dred and  ninety-eight  miles,  or  twenty-four  hours,  from 
here — to  enjoy  a  view  of  the  snow-clad  Himalayas.  Mrs. 
Ballantyne,  of  Bombay,  the  wife  of  my  friend,  is  spending 
the  summer  on  their  beautiful  slopes,  seven  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea.  Dargeeling  is  reached  by  a  circular  railroad 
from  the  plain  below,  said  to  be  the  most  marvelous  piece 
of  engineering  in  the  world.  Ten  thousand  feet  above  Dar- 


Brief  Stay  in  Calcutta.  869 

geeling  is  Kinchenjunga,  and  twelve  thousand  feet  still 
higher  rises  Mount  Everest,  the  loftiest  peak  on  the  globe. 

It  was  quite  two  o'clock  before  I  returned  to  the  Great 
Eastern  "for  tiffin."  I  made  ray  toilet  hastily  and  hurried 
into  the  saloon,  hoping  to  find  the  Colonel  dining.  I  had 
heard  more  news  of  the  most  damaging  character.  Well, 
turning  the  joke  on  me,  as  I  approached  he  casually  re- 
marked: "What  is  the  latest,  Colonel?  What  have  you 
heard  since  breakfast?" 

"  Pardon  me,  please,  Mister ;  I  have  some  very  unfaror- 
able  intelligence  to  communicate." 

I  was  pretty  sure  now  he  was  a  bagging  merchant.  As 
for  myself,  I  cherished  a  worthy  pride  in  the  exalted  title 
he  had  given  me.  I  remembered  once  I  was  a  colonel  in 
the  Georgia  militia,  and  the  bloody  fields  of  battle  I  had 
waded  through.  O  the  martial  spirit  was  upon  me! 

"And  you  have  heard  something  rambling  around  the 
city,  eh?" 

"  Yes,  sir ;  I  heard  the  proprietor  of  this  hotel  died  the 
other  day  from  cholera ! " 

"O  yes,  Colonel;  it  was  a  little  unfortunate,  poor  fel- 
low!" 

"Well,"  says  I,  with  a  determined  look,  "that's  not  all. 
I  heard  the  gentleman  sitting  next  to  you  at  this  table  ate  a 
hearty  dinner  a  day  or  two  ago,  went  into  that  room  (point- 
ing my  finger)  to  play  a  game  of  billiards,  and  in  fifteen 
minutes  was  a  corpse — stricken  with  cholera." 

"O  yes,  Colonel;  there  are  occasional  instances  now  and 
then — a  few  spasmodic  cases." 

"Well,"  says  I,  "I  leave  Calcutta.  Good-by!  farewell! 
adieu ! " 

As  I  hurried  down  to  the  great  steam-ship  "Kaiser  I. 
Hind,"  you  might  have  heard  a  low  voice  mumbling,  "Four 
hundred  and  fifty-six  in  twenty-four  hours!" 
24 


370  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

CHAPTER   XXXVI. 

LEAVING  CALCUTTA  FOR  COLOMBO,  CEYLON — MEETING 
SIR  JOHN  SINCLAIR — WE  BECOME  COMPANIONS — THE 
MARRIAGE  AND  CELEBRATION  OF  His  BIRTHDAY  IN 
SCOTLAND. 

'"PHE  sun  was  setting  on  New  Orleans  but  rising  on  Cal- 
JL  cutta  as  we  drifted  down  the  Hoogly  River  past  the 
beautiful  gardens  of  the  exiled  King  of  Oude.  His  palace 
is  in  full  view,  and  his  gardens  are  famed  for  their  rare  col- 
lection of  flowers  and  display  of  animals.  The  old  king 
lives  in  Oriental  magnificence,  with  as  many  wives  as  he 
wants,  on  the  pension  allowed  him  by  the  Government, 
which  is  said  to  be  two  laks  of  rupees,  or  one  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars,  a  year.  The  screaming  kites — the  scavengers 
of  the  city — and  stately  adjutant  cranes,  as  tall  as  a  man, 
were  flying  over  or  sitting  in  lofty  reserve  on  the  house- 
tops, while  elephants  and  Hindoos  were  bathing  in  the  river, 
and  monkeys  chattered  in  the  trees  along  its  banks,  until 
Calcutta  had  faded  from  our  view.  We  saw  evidences  of  a 
great  cyclone  that  swept  up  the  coast  a  few  years  ago,  de- 
stroying an  immense  deal  of  property  and  two  hundred  thou- 
sand lives.  A  large  ship,  or  boat,  was  blown  some  distance 
out  on  shore.  These  storms  move  in  an  opposite  direction 
from  what  they  do  with  us,  but  probably  the  same  causes 
produce  them.  They  occur  between  the  monsoons  during 
the  gradual  change  of  these  winds.  Soon  after  leaving  Cal- 
cutta the  old  fort,  with  its  bristling  cannons,  appeared,  where 
the  East  India  Company,  two  hundred  years  ago,  first  es- 
tablished its  power  in  India.  Fifty  miles  below  the  city 
perhaps,  we  pass  Diamond  Harbor,  connected  with  Calcutta 
by  wire  and  rail ;  but  soon  all  land  disappears. 

Among  our  large  passenger  list  was  a  handsome,  digni- 
fied young  fellow  of  much  culture  and  most  agreeable  man- 


Ceylon — Sir  John  Sinclair.  371 

ners.  His  distingue  appearance  attracted  a  good  deal  of 
comment  on  board  when  it  was  known  a  young  nobleman, 
Sir  John  E.  G.  Sinclair,  of  Caithness,  Scotland,  eighth 
Baronet  of  Dunbeath,  Barrock  House,  was  one  among  us. 
Sir  John  had  been  the  guest  of  the  Maharajah  in  Katia- 
wa  for  several  months  past.  His  illustrious  father,  who 
had  served  as  a  gallant  soldier  in  the  Indian  army,  was 
buried  at  Jeypore..  His  ancestry  and  clan  were  among  the 
most  honored  and  historic  in  Scotland.  The  "young  Laird 
of  Barrock"  was  on  a  voyage  around  the  world.  His  com- 
panionship henceforth  was  to  lend  a  new  charm  to  the  dreary 
waste  of  ocean  and  the  jolly  rounds  of  my  pleasure  on  the 
shore.  We  became  mutually  good  friends,  like  Horace 
and  Ma9cenas,  sharing  each  other's  companionship  and  joys 
(we  had  no  sorrows)  in  every  land  and  on  every  sea,  until 
cruel  fate  had  parted  us  at  the  Palmer  House  in  Chicago. 
It  is  a  stupid  thing  to  travel  by  one's  self. 

Since  leaving  home  two  months  and  a  half  had  gone 
with  no  kindred  spirit  to  cheer  me  when  alone.  I  had  de- 
pended on  my  guides  and  the  few  Englishmen  or  Ameri- 
cans I  had  chanced  to  meet,  for  an  interchange  even  of 
opinions.  In  future,  then,  the  pronoun  "we"  will  include 
my  distinguished  companion  whom  I  have  introduced. 

In  this  connection  I  trust  I  will  be  pardoned  for  alluding 
here  to  two  of  the  happiest  events  that  have  occurred  in 
the  young  life  of  my  friend  since  his  return  from  the  event- 
ful voyage  we  had  partly  made  together.  From  the  John 
0'  Groat  Journal,  published  at  Wick,  Scotland,  I  am  pleased 
to  learn  of  his  happy  marriage  to  one  of  Edinburgh's  most 
celebrated  beauties.  This  brilliant  event  occurred  January 
7,  1885,  at  St.  Peter's  Episcopal  Church,  Edinburgh,  the 
notice  of  which  I  have  copied  from  that  journal : 

MARRIAGE. — At  St.  Peter's  Episcopal  Church,  Edinburgh,  on  the 
7th  inst,,  by  the  Bishop  of  Edinburgh  and  the  Rev.  Canon  Sellar, 


372  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

M.A.,  Sir  John  Kpse  George  Sinclair,  eighth  Baronet  of  Dunbeath, 
Barrock  House,  Caithnesshire,  to  Edith,  only  daughter  of  Lieuten- 
ant-colonel Dunbar  (H.P.  24th  regiment),  one  of  H.M.'s  Gentlemen- 
at-arms,  and  granddaughter  of  the  late  Colonel  Geddes,  C.B.,  of  52, 
George  Square,  Edinburgh. 

The  Earl  of  Caithness,  as  chief  of  the  Sinclair  clan,  act- 
ed as  best  man.  He  was  attired  in  full  Highland  costume, 
as  were  also  the  bridegroom  and  several  of  the  guests.  The 
most  lovely  bride  was  attired  in  white  brocade  and  satin 
trimmed  with  lace,  and  her  ornaments  consisted  entirely  of 
diamonds  and  pearls.  The  bridesmaids,  who  were  eight  in 
number,  were  each  dressed  alike  in  cream  brocade  trimmed 
with  fur,  and  high-crowned  hats  of  cream  velvet  with  coral 
feathers.  Each  wore  gold  double  horseshoe  bangles  and 
silver  cairngorm  staghorn  brooches  fastening  a  piece  of 
gauze — the  badge  of  the  Sinclairs — and  carried  magnificent 
bouquets,  all  being  the  gifts  of  the  bridegroom.  The  dec- 
orations of  the  church,  the  swelling  peals  from  the  organ, 
the  presents,  which  were  of  the  most  costly  description,  con- 
stituted the  event  one  of  the  most  notable  that  had  ever  oc- 
curred in  Edinburgh. 

On  the  10th  day  of  August  succeeding,  another  memora- 
ble event  was  celebrated — hardly  less  happy  in  its  associa- 
tions than  the  one  to  which  I  have  alluded.  On  the  day 
mentioned  the  young  baronet  reached  his  majority,  which 
was  celebrated  at  a  dinner-party  given  to  his  tenantry.  The 
occasion  brought  together  the  illustrious  descendants  and 
friends  of  "Barrock  House"  to  welcome  Sir  John  to  his 
inheritance.  The  tenants  of  the  estate,  in  testimony  of 
their  love  and  high  appreciation  of  the  "  Laird  and  Lady 
of  Barrock,"  made  a  presentation  of  a  beautifully  carved 
silver  tray,  which  was  to  have  been  presented  at  their  mar- 
riage. About  two  hundred  of  the  tenants,  with  their  wives 
and  families,  filed  in  the  gate  under  a  banner  waving  above 


Ceylon— Sir  John  Sinclair.  373 

them  inscribed  with  the  inotto,  "Welcome."  The  strains 
of  the  bagpipe,  played  by  Mr.  Sinclair  Gair,  was  suggest- 
ive of  a  truly  Highland  welcome,  without  the  hills.  The 
invited  guests  belonged  to  the  nobility  and  other  distin- 
guished walks  of  life.  I  present  a  few  of  the  toasts  de- 
livered at  this  dinner,  and  regret  that  only  distance  pre- 
vented my  acceptance  of  Sir  John's  invitation  to  be  present 
on  one  of  these  happy  occasions. 

Mr.  James  Laurie  Howe  commenced  the  proceedings. 
He  said :  "  Sir  John  and  Lady  Sinclair,  I  may  say  that  the 
greater  part  of  our  life-time  here  is  brightened  by  hope  and 
looking  to  the  future.  Our  own  youthful  years  are  much 
taken  up  in  this  exercise,  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  you,  Sir 
John,  also  have  been  looking  forward  with  pleasure  to  this 
time — namely,  coming  to  your  majority  [cheers] ;  and  she 
who  is  the  keystone  of  the  whole  arch  is  your  beautiful  and 
amiable  wife,  Lady  Sinclair.  [Loud  cheers.]  Our  Scotch 
poet  says  the  man  without  a  wife  is  no  better  than  an  ass, 
[Laughter  and  applause.]  Your  tenants  on  Barrock  es- 
tates resolved  to  share  in  your  joys  on  this  memorable  day. 
[Cheers.]  They  know  well  that  your  interests  as  a  land- 
lord and  theirs  are  so  closely  connected  that  you  may  well 
be  compared  to  one  family  [loud  cheers] ;  and  we  unitedly 
wished  to  give  expression  to  our  loyalty  and  good  wishes  to 
you,  our  young  chief,  and  your  accomplished  lady  on  this 
occasion  by  presenting  you  with  a  piece  of  silver  plate. 
[Cheers.]  I  now  call  upon  Mr.  Mowat  to  present  this  gift 
to  you." 

Lady  Sinclair,  on  viewing  the  handsome  piece  of  plate, 
remarked :  "  It  is  just  perfectly  magnificent.  Nothing  could 
be  more  beautiful.  It  is  so  good  of  you." 

Sir  John  Sinclair  then  said:  "In  returning  thanks  for 
your  address  and  your  most  beautiful  tray,  my  wife  and  I 
wish  to  express  how  deeply  we  feel  the  affection  and  inter- 


374  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

est  which  have  prompted  such  a  magnificent  gift.  I  can 
assure  you  this  is  the  second  happiest  day  of  my  life.  Of 
course  the  happiest  was  when  I  won  my  wife.  [Loud  ap- 
plause.] It  gives  me  unbounded  pleasure  to  know  that  the 
affection  which  existed  for  my  grandfather  still  exists  for 
me ;  and  I  enter  on  my  new  duties  with  confidence  that  I 
shall  always  have  your  support.  [Applause.]  The  tray  is 
one  of  the  handsomest  pieces  I  have  ever  seen.  During  my 
life  it  will  be  a  constant  object  of  pride  to  me,  and  will  go 
down  as  an  heir- loom,  proving  your  generosity  and  good- 
will." [Loud  applause.] 

After  presentation  of  the  plate  the  dinner  was  announced, 
with  Sir  John  Sinclair  as  chairman.  Prayer  was  delivered 
by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Macpherson. 

The  Chairman  (Sir  John  Sinclair)  proceeded  to  give  the 
usual  loyal  and  patriotic  toasts,  which  were  duly  honored. 
The  Queen,  of  course,  came  first;  Sir  John  remarking  that 
Her  Majesty  showed  her  love  for  her  Scotch  subjects  by 
living  so  much  amongst  them.  In  giving  the  toast  of  the 
Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales,  and  the  rest  of  the  royal 
family,  special  reference  was  made  to  the  Princess  Beatrice, 
for  whom  much  happiness  was  washed  in  her  married  state. 

The  Chairman :  "  The  next  toast  I  have  to  propose  is  '  the 
Army  and  Navy  and  Auxiliary  Forces,'  coupled  with  the 
name  of  General  Burroughs.  [Cheers.]  There  is  no  toast 
that  should  be  received  better,  as  we  are  all  proud  of  the 
army,  especially  after  their  recent  gallant  campaign,  which 
will  always  form  a  chapter  in  the  glorious  annals  of  their 
exploits.  [Cheers.]  Through  hardships,  dangers,  a  bad 
climate,  against  a  fanatical  foe,  they  went  on  true  to  their 
motto,  that  a  Briton  never  fails  in  his  duty.  [Loud  cheers.] 
The  navy  too,  for  though  the  ships  are  changed  from  wood 
to  iron,  the  material  of  the  men  is  the  same,  and  the  Brit- 
ish tar  is  the  glory  of  our  island  home.  [Cheers.]  The 


Ceylon — Sir  John  Sinclair.  375 

auxiliary  forces  we  must  all  be  proud  of,  for  they  are  the 
movement  of  the  nation  coming  forward  to  protect  what 
they  hold  dearest — their  homes  and  their  liberty.  [Cheers.] 
I  cannot  couple  a  more  suitable  person  with  this  toast  than 
my  relation,  General  Burroughs,  who  has  earned  distinc- 
tion in  many  a  hard-fought  field,  and  for  mest  signal  gal- 
lantry was  recommended  for  the  Victoria  Cross."  [Loud 
cheers.] 

General  Burroughs,  in  reply,  said :  "  Sir  John  Sinclair, 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  on  behalf  of  the  British  armaments 
— the  Navy,  the  Army,  and  the  Reserve  Forces — I  thank 
you  for  the  cordial  manner  of  your  response  to  the  toast 
in  their  honor.  The  county  of  Caithness  has  ever  contrib- 
uted largely  to  these  forces,  and  Caithnessmen  have  con- 
tributed greatly  to  the  victories  they  have  gained.  [Cheers.] 
In  my  own  experience  in  a  service  of  twenty-five  years  in 
the  ninety-third  regiment,  the  Sutherland  Highlanders — a 
regiment  in  which,  in  my  day,  there  were  always  a  great 
many  Caithnessmen — I  can  certify  to  the  men  of  Caithness 
being  second  to  none  as  good  soldiers  of  our  Queen. 
[Cheers.]  I  ever  found  them  calm  and  cool  and  courage- 
ous in  battle  and  in  danger,  and  ever  cheerful  and  willing 
and  stanch  and  well-conducted  in  doing  their  duty  at  all 
times.  [Renewed  cheering.]  When  I  think  of  my  old 
friends  and  comrades-in-arms  who  belonged  to  Caithness, 
memory  recalls  to  my  mind  the  name  of  your  neighbor, 
Colonel  Wm.  Macdonald,  of  Sandside  [cheers],  who  .was 
killed  by  cholera  whilst  in  command  of  the  ninety-third 
Highlanders  at  Peshawur,  in  India.  I  think  of  three  Caith- 
'  nessmen  who  rose  to  be  sergeant-majors  of  the  regiment — 
viz.,  Sergeant-major  Ross,  Sergeant-major  Manson,  and  Ser- 
geat-major  Taylor.  [Cheers.]  The  last  was  killed  in  bat- 
tle at  Lucknow;  and  I  think  of  many  others  who  shared 
the  same  fate.  I  am  happy,  however,  to  know  that  many 


376  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  my  old  coinrades-in-arrns  are  still  alive  and  \vell,  and 
living  honored  and  respected  in  your  midst.  There  is  my 
old  friend  Color-sergeant  Ross  at  Reay,  who  taught  me  my 
drill  as  an  Ensign ;  there  is  Color-sergeant  Sorrie  at  Thurso, 
Sergeant  Coull  at  Wick,  and  many  others  scattered  through 
this  county.  [Cheers.]  But  when  I  look  upon  the  stal- 
wart chiels  around  me  [laughter  and  applause],  I  see  worthy 
successors  of  those  that  have  gone  before  them ;  and  I  for 
one  would  be  sorry  to  be  the  enemy  opposed  to  Sir  John 
Sinclair,  backed  by  the  sons  of  those  who  followed  his  an- 
cestors of  old  [cheers],  and  who  have  come  here  this  day 
loyally  to  welcome  their  young  landlord  on  succeeding  to 
the  estates  which  have  been  held  by  his  family  since  the 
history  of  Caithness  was  first  written.  [Applause.]  I  sin- 
cerely unite  with  you  all  in  wishing  Sir  John  and  Lady 
Sinclair  a  long  and  useful  life  amongst  you,  and  to  you  all 
happiness  and  prosperity."  [Loud  cheers.] 

General  Burroughs  again  rose,  and  in  appropriate  terms 
proposed  "the  Church  of  Scotland  in  all  its  denomina- 
tions," coupled  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Macpherson.  [Cheers.] 
Some  of  them,  the  General  said,  were  traveling  by  differ- 
ent roads,  but  he  hoped  all  were  going  to  the  same  goa1. 
[Cheers.] 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Macpherson  indorsed  this  sentiment  in  his 
reply.  He  added  that  he  was  sorry  that  so  much  sectarian 
feeling  existed,  and  he  hoped  in  the  future  they  would  go 
hand  in  hand,  helping  each  other  in  every  good  work. 
[Cheers.]  For  his  own  part  he  made  it  a  principle  to  do 
good  to  every  person  he  came  in  contact  with,  whatever 
Church  he  belonged  to.  [Cheers.] 

Bailie  Sinclair,  Wick,  said  he  had  been  asked  to  propose 
a  toast  which  he  was  sure  all  present  would  receive  with 
enthusiasm.  It  was'  the  health  of  Sir  John  and  Lady  Sin- 
clair. [Loud  cheers.]  Caithness,  he  said,  had  cause  to  bo 


Ceylon — Sir  John  Sinclair. 


proud  of  its  proprietors,  and  the  proprietors  had  also  rea- 
son to  be  proud  of  their  tenants;  and  he  was. sure  a  more 
happy  family  of  proprietors  and  tenants  than  that  which 
had  met  together  there  that  afternoon  was  not  to  be  found 
in  Scotland.  [Cheers.]  There  was  no  name  in  Scotland 
which  stood  out  so  prominently  as  that  of  Sinclair.  [Laugh- 
ter and  applause.]  From  earliest  history  they  found  that 
honors  were  conferred  by  the  Crown  on  distinguished  men 
of  that  name,  and  honors  were  conferred  upon  them  still. 
From  earliest  history,  also,  members  of  the  Sinclair  family 
were  foremost  in  defending  their  country;  and  only  the  oth- 
er day  we  had  a  noble  example  of  one  of  them  forsaking 
the  comforts  of  home,  gallantly  following  Lord  Wolseley 
in  the  Soudan  [cheers],  and  taking  part  in  all  the  perils  of 
that  memorable  campaign  on  the  Nile.  He  need  not  say 
that  he  referred  to  Mr.  Clarence  Sinclair  of  Ulbster.  [Loud 
cheers.]  And  the  Sinclairs  had  not  won  laurels  on  the  bat- 
tle-field only,  but  they  had  such  examples  as  those  of  Sir 
William  Sinclair,  of  Dunbeath,  and  members  of  the  Ulb- 
ster family,  who  had  labored  to  instill  into  men's  minds  the 
principles  of  the  glorious  gospel — guiding  them  not  only  in 
the  paths  of  morality,  but  showing  them  the  way  to  reach 
the  higher  life.  [Applause.]  Bailie  Sinclair  proceeded  to 
refer  to  the  eminence  attained  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  and 
as  promoters  of  agriculture,  by  such  men  as  the  late  Earl 
of  Caithness,  Sir  John  Sinclair  of  Ulbster,  the  late  Sir 
John  Sinclair  of  Dunbeath,  the  late  Mr.  Traill,  the  late 
Sir  George  Dunbar,  and  last,  though  not  least,  the  present 
enterprising  Laird  of  Stemster.  [Applause.]  People  might 
wonder  what  brought  him  (Bailie  Sinclair)  amongst  them 
that  day,  but  he  was  happy  to  say  that  he  too  was  a  tenant 
on  the  Barrock  estate,  and  he  was  there  to  rejoice  with  the 
other  tenants  in  the  attainment  by  Sir  John  of  his  majority, 
and  to  show  the  respect  which  they  had  for  the  Baronet 


Around  the  World  in  18$4. 


and  his  amiable  lady.  [Applause.]  Let  them  aid  him  in 
his  struggles,  rejoice  with  him  in  his  successes,  and  with  one 
voice  say,  "May  God  bless  them  both!"  [Loud  cheers.] 
If  Sir  John  followed  in  the  footsteps  of  his  forefathers,  as 
he  gave  every  promise  of  doing,  he  would  be  an  eminent 
man  in  the  county,  and  encourage  his  tenants  in  the  way 
of  progress.  [Cheers.]  The  late  Sir  John  Sinclair  had 
done  valuable  work  in  improving  his  estate,  and  the  work 
in  which  he  was  engaged  was  well  carried  on  by  those  in 
whose  hands  the  management  of  affairs  wras  left.  [Cheers.] 
Bailie  Sinclair  concluded  by  giving  the  health  of  Sir  John 
and  Lady  Sinclair,  and  wishing  for  them  every  blessing. 
The  toast  was  drank  to  amid  vociferous  cheering. 

Sir  John  Sinclair,  in  returning  thanks,  said:  "In  rising 
to  return  thanks  for  the  hearty  manner  in  which  you  have 
drank  my  health  and  that  of  my  wife,  I  must  first  say  how 
pleased  I  am  to  see  you  all  present,  and  how  much  I  value 
the  warm  expression  of  your  feelings  toward  me.  [Cheers.] 
1  must  again  reiterate  that  this  is  one  of  the  happiest  days 
in  my  life,  and  I  only  trust  that  these  feelings  may  never 
cease  to  exist.  [Renewed  cheering.]  I  have  followed  my 
grandfather's  steps,  and  married  and  settled  here  early  in 
life  [cheers];  and  his  interests  will  be  mine.  Cooperation, 
to  my  mind,  solves  every  problem  ;  and  if  it  is  to  be  a  long 
pull,  at  least  let  it  be  a  pull  all  together  [cheers],  and  then 
I  have  no  fear  for  our  mutual  happiness  and  welfare." 
[Loud  applause.] 

Sir  John  Sinclair,  in  replying  for  his  mother,  said  that 
she  held  the  opinion  that  every  British  woman,  as  well  as 
every  British  man,  should  do  her  duty.  [Cheers.]  His 
mother  had  always  endeavored  to  do  her  duty,  and  he  be- 
lieved she  had  succeeded.  [Loud  cheers.] 

Mr.  Henderson,  of  Stemster,  proposed  the  health  of  Sir 
Tollemache  Sinclair,  member  of  Parliament  of  the  county. 


Ceylon — Sir  John  Sinclair.  379 

[Cheers.]  Sir  Tollemache  had  represented  the  county  for 
many  years,  and  he  had  been  most  painstaking  and  faithful 
in  the  discharge  of  his  duties.  They  would  all  agree  with 
him  that  no  man  could  be  more  attentive  to  the  interests  of 
the  county  than  Sir  Tollemache  always  showed  himself  to 
be.  [Cheers.] 

Mr.  Clarence  Sinclair,  on  rising  to  reply,  was  received 
with  applause.  He  said:  "Sir  John  Sinclair,  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  on  behalf  of  my  father  I  beg  to  thank  you  most 
cordially  for  the  kind  manner  in  which  his  health  has  been 
proposed  by  Mr.  Henderson,  and  for  the  hearty  way  in 
which  you  have  received  the  toast.  I  am  sure  he  sincerely 
regrets  his  inability  to  be  present  on  this  festive  occasion, 
and  to  offer  personally  his  congratulations  to  your  most  de- 
servedly popular  young  Laird  on  his  attaining  his  majority, 
but  ill  health  has  compelled  him  to  go  abroad  to  a  more 
genial  climate  to  recruit  his  health  after  the  arduous  labors 
of  the  Parliamentary  session.  For,  gentlemen,  I  can  as- 
sure you  that  the  position  of  a  conscientious  member  of 
Parliament  nowadays  is  by  no  means  a  sinecure,  and  the 
late  hours  and  worries  and  anxieties  tell  severely  on  any- 
body, more  especially  on  an  elderly  gentleman  when  he  has 
reached  the  shady  side  of  sixty,  and  may  fairly  claim  a 
well-earned  repose.  [Applause.]  My  father  has  therefore 
definitely  though  regretfully  determined  to  retire  from  the 
representation  of  the  county  after  seventeen  years  of  faith- 
ful service,  during  which  time  he  has  endeavored  to  main- 
tain and  uphold  your  interests  to  the  best  of  his  ability,  and 
to  faithfully  fulfill  the  trust  committed  to  his  care.  [Cheers.] 
And  though  he  has  on  all  occasions  voted  according  to  the 
dictates  of  his  conscience  and  irrespective  of  party,  it  will 
at  the  same  time  be  found  on  analyzing  the  votes  he  has 
given  in  Parliament  that  whenever  a  measure  has  been  pro- 
posed having  for  its  object  the  elevation  and  improvement 


380  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  the  masses  of  the  people,  whether  by  education  or  other- 
wise, that  measure  has  always  had  his  cordial  cooperation 
and  hearty  support.  [Loud  cheers,]  I  am  sure  the  people 
of  this  county  have  shown  their  appreciation  of  his  char- 
acter in  the  most  emphatic  and  welcome  manner  in  thrice 
electing  him  to  represent  them.  [Cheers.]  And  I  must 
not  forget  to  thank  most  gratefully  the  electors  of  Barrock 
for  the  timely  support  they  gave  him  on  one  momentous 
occasion — I  mean  the  election  of  1874 — when,  had  it  not 
been  that  Barrock  and  Ulbster  stood  shoulder  to  shoulder, 
as  I  trust  they  will  always  do,  I  firmly  believe  the  day 
would  have  been  lost,  and  we  should  have  had  the  mortifi- 
cation of  being  represented,  or  rather  misrepresented,  in  the 
councils  of  the  nation  by  an  unknown  stranger  from  the 
South,  having  no  interests  in  common  with  ourselves,  and 
no  stake  in  the  county.  [Hear,  hear,  and  applause.]  I 
hope  the  day  is  far  distant  when  we  shall  have  to  go  a  beg- 
ging to  Glasgow  or  to  London  [hear,  hear]  in  search  of 
somebody  to  represent  us  in  Parliament,  and  that  the  inter- 
ests of  this  important  and  enlightened  constituency  will 
never  be  intrusted  to  anybody  but  a  Caithnessman."  [Loud 
cheers.] 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Macpherson,  in  proposing  the  next  toast, 
said  Sir  John  married  early,  but  his  sister  got  married  be- 
fore him.  [Laughter  and  cheers.]  They  were  all  delight- 
ed when  they  saw  the  announcement  of  her  forth-coming 
marriage,  and  they  were  still  more  delighted  when  they 
heard  who  the  happy  husband  was  to  be.  [Cheers.]  He 
begged  to  propose  "the  health  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  George  Sin- 
clair" [cheers],  and  he  might  add  that  he  was  glad  to  think 
that  there  was  no  fear  of  the  Sinclair  clan  dying  out  in  the 
county.  [Laughter  and  cheers.]  The  toast  was  heartily 
responded  to. 

Mr.  George  Sinclair  replied,  and  said  the  two  happiest 


Ceylon — Sir  John  Sinclair.  381 

days  of  his  life  were  intimately  connected  with  Barrock. 
The  first  was  when,  soon  after  their  marriage,  his  wife  was 
presented  with  the  magnificent  bowl,  which  was  the  gift  of 
the  Barrock  tenantry ;  and  the  second  time  was  that  day, 
when  he  and  his  wife  had  again  received  a  most  cordial 
welcome.  [Cheers.] 

The  Chairman  said :  "  My  next  toast  is  one  that  I  know 
will  be  warmly  received.  It  is  my  guardian,  Colonel  Lear- 
mouth.  [Cheers.]  You  all  know  the  debt  of  gratitude  1 
awe  him.  He  has  stood  to  me  in  the  place  of  a  father,  and 
I  have  ever  found  him  the  kindest  and  most  indulgent;  and 
his  knowledge  of  the  world  has  been  of  the  greatest  help 
to  me.  [Cheers.]  The  moment  he  heard  of  our  meeting 
he  put  every  thing  on  one  side  and  took  the  long  journey 
from  Windsor  to  be  once  more  amongst  us.  [Renewed 
cheering.]  You  have  only  to  look  round,  and  the  property 
speaks  for  itself  of  the  many  improvements  he  has  intro- 
duced and  so  wisely  carried  out."  [Loud  applause.] 

Colonel  Learmonth  said  he  was  delighted  to  be  present 
that  day  to  see  the  worthy  Laird  of  Barrock  take  his  proper 
place  in  the  bosom  of  his  tenantry.  [Applause.]  He  was 
proud  to  tell  them  that  their  Laird  was  a  young  man  of  the 
noblest  spirit,  and  of  the  highest  ideas  of  the  duties  which 
a  landlord  owes  to  his  tenants.  [Cheers.]  At  one  time  he 
thought  of  serving  Her  Majesty  in  the  army,  and  so  far  he 
was  doing  so,  as  he  belonged  to  the  militia.  But  he  con- 
sidered with  himself  and  said:  "Here  am  I  about  to  suc- 
ceed to  important  duties  in  the  management  of  an  estate  in 
the  North,  and  I  think  it  better  that  I  should  go  and  study 
agriculture  for  myself  in  order  to  get  insight  into  that  great 
profession."  [Cheers.]  And  accordingly  he  did  go  and 
study  agriculture  for  awhile,  and  then  it  occurred  to  him 
and  those  who  advised  him  that  it  would  be  a  good  thing 
for  him  to  go  and  see  the  world,  and  thus  enlarge  his  ideas ; 


382  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

and  consequently  he  took  a  tour  round  the  globe,  visiting 
India,  China,  Japan,  and  America.  That  was  a  wise  and 
sensible  course  to  chalk  out — to  trifle  life  away  in  follies 
and  vanities,  as  many  a  young  man  might  have  done,  but 
to  prepare  himself  for  the  day  which  had  now  come. 
[Cheers.]  Now  that  he  (Colonel  Learmonth)  was  going 
out  of  office  he  felt  it  to  be  a  duty  to  talk  about  these  mat- 
ters as  he  was  doing.  Furthermore,  he  thought  Sir  John 
took  another  wise  step.  He  would  only  ask  them  to  look 
at  Lady  Sinclair  and  say  if  that  step  was  not  a  right  and 
wise  one.  [Loud  cheers.]  The  more  people  knew  Lady 
Sinclair  the  more  they  liked  her.  She  was  ready  and  will- 
ing to  aid  and  support  her  husband,  and  to  do  every  thing 
in  her  power  for  the  good  of  her  people  and  the  happiness 
of  all  on  the  estate.  [Cheers.]  Nothing  could  be  more 
gratifying  than  the  presentation  which  was  made  that  day. 
The  feeling  of  those  who  spoke  was  admirable,  and  it  was 
evident  that  what  was  spoken  came  from  the  heart  and  ex- 
pressed the  sentiments  of  the  united  tenantry.  [Cheers.] 
Colonel  Learmonth  proceeded  to  say  that  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  estate — and  others  were  associated  with  him  in 
the  duty — during  Sir  John's  minority,  he  had  two  things 
always  in  mind :  first,  that  he  had  to  spend  other  people's 
money  and  not  his  own,  and  that  with  due  regard  to  Sir 
John's  interests  it  was  necessary  that  the  improvements  so 
wisely  begun  should  be  gone  on  with.  Another  and  a  great 
object  was  to  try  and  keep  together  the  tenantry  on  the  es- 
tate, so  that  when  this  day  which  they  were  now  enjoying 
arrived  they  should  see  a  happy  and  contented  people  on 
the  estate.  [Cheers.]  His  (Colonel  Learmonth's)  reign 
was  now  over,  and  he  was  thankful  that  he  was  permitted 
to  see  this  happy  day  in  the  life  of  Sir  John  and  Lady  Sin- 
clair, with  regard  to  whom  he  was  sure  the  feeling  of  every 
one  was,  "  God  bless  them  both ! "  [Loud  applause.] 


Ceylon — Sir  John  Sinclair.  383 

Mr.  George  Sinclair,  Thursa  Castle,  proposed  "the  royal 
burgh  of  Wick."  [Applause.]  Wick,  from  its'  position 
and  its  harbor,,  was  the  great  industrial  center  of  the  county, 
whilst  by  the  importance  and  extent  of  its  trade  it  occupied 
the  foremost  position  of  any  town  north  of  Inverness.  He 
was  happy  to  think  that  during  the  present  period  of  de- 
pression Wick  was  able  to  hold  its  own.  He  begged  to 
couple  with  the  toast  the  name  of  Provost  Rae.  [Cheers.] 
Provost  Rae's  name  was  one  which  they  all  knew  and  re- 
spected, and  he  was  a  man  who  had  done  more  for  the  good 
of  the  county  of  Caithness  than  it  was  possible  for  him  (Mr. 
Sinclair)  to  tell  them.  [Cheers.]  The  Provost  was  also  a 
man  of  literary  abilities  which  they  all  recognized,  and  he 
was  a  man  also  whom  they  most  sincerely  respected.  [Loud 
cheers.] 

Mr.  Clarence  Sinclair,  in  an  interesting  speech,  proposed 
"the  press,"  coupled  with  Mr.  Grant,  of  the  Northern  En* 
sign,  who  replied. 

Sir  John  Sinclair  proposed,  with  three  times  three,  the 
health  of  Mrs.  Nicol,  who  had  purveyed  the  dinner  and 
done  every  thing  herself  in  first-rate  style.  [Cheers.] 

Mr.  Alex.  Sinclair,  corn  merchant,  Wick,  proposed  "the 
officials  on  the  estate,"  coupled  with  Mr.  A.  Mackay,  Thur- 
so.  [Cheers.] 

Mr.  Mackay  replied,  and  referred  to  the  pleasure  which 
it  afforded  every  one  to  see  the  kindly  feelings  manifested 
that  day  between  proprietor  and  tenants.  He  had  been 
connected  with  the  estate  for  upward  of  twenty-four  years, 
and  during  the  earlier  part  of  those  years  he  had  seen  many 
striking  instances  of  the  deep  interest  taken  by  the  late  Sir 
John  and  Lady  Sinclair  in  their  tenantry.  If  every  pro- 
prietor acted  on  the  same  principle  and  resided  among  his 
tenantry,  it  would  be  a  blessing  for  the  country.  [Cheers.] 

This  concluded  the  toast-list,  and  the  company  then  dis- 


384  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

persed.  The  whole  of  the  arrangements  of  the  day  were 
excellently  carried  out,  and  not  a  single  hitch  occurred  to 
mar  the  enjoyment  of  the  proceedings.  The  following  was 
the  committee  of  management:  Messrs.  James  Laurie, 
William  Mowat,  James  Oliphant,  John  Shearer,  John  Oli- 
phant,  David  Nicolson,  John  Miller,  Alex.  Mowat,  and 
Francis  Reid. 

After  the  presentation  of  the  piece  of  plate  to  Sir  John 
and  Lady  Sinclair,  Mr.  Johnston,  AVick,  took  a  photograph 
in  a  group  of  the  family  party  at  Barrock  House. 


...  CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

INCIDENTS  OF  THE  VOYAGE  TO  CEYLON — MADRAS. 

WE  are  now  fairly  out  on  the  Bay  of  Bengal.  Our 
course  is  nearly  due  south,  toward  the  equator,  run- 
ning parallel  with  the  peninsular  coast  of  India.  It  is  sev- 
en days  to  Ceylon,  and  we  touch  only  at  the  city  of  Madras 
in  the  voyage  from  Calcutta  to  Colombo.  Everybody  is  on 
deck,  the  weather  is  perfectly  charming,  with  just  a  little 
"sea  on,"  but  not  enough  to  prevent  the  crowded  saloons 
at  the  regular  bells,  the  merry  dancers,  or  promenaders  by 
moonlight. 

We  have  a  bridal  party  on  board,  a  hundred  or  more 
English  passengers,  bound  for  home  on  leave  from  the  mil- 
itary and  civil  services  of  India.  There  are  many  passen- 
gers for  Australia  too,  who  have  found  the  Indian  climate 
too  debilitating,  and  are  seeking  more  congenial  climes  in 
the  colonies  across  the  equator.  We  have  several  "  Church 
of  England"  ministers  who  conduct  religious  services  on 
the  Sabbath ;  so  we  are  quite  a  well-organized  community  _ 
I  have  never  met  a  more  genial  or  better  cultured  class  01 
passengers  than  I  find  on  the  "  Kaiser  I.  Hind."  We  boast 


Voyage  to  Ceylon — Madras.  385 

of  the  usual  dramatic  and  musical  talent ;  a  good  library, 
supplemented  by  the  ship's-  games,  such  as  quoits,  rings,  and 
shuffle-boards,  by  which  the  time  is  passed  away. 

In  the  gentlemen's  smoking-room,  or  "stag  hall,"  the 
rarest  fun  is  sometimes  enjoyed.  The  Englishman  is  fond 
of  story-telling,  as  well  as  adventure,  with  a  creditable  fac- 
ulty for  explanation.  Speeches,  toasts,  and  card-playing 
are  ruling  passions  in  these  social  reunions.  The  ladies  are 
fond  of  needle-work,  embroidery,  reading,  and  the  piano — 
we  have  a  few  fine  base  voices  among  the  gentlemen.  When 
tired  of  promenading  on  deck  everybody  has  an  easy  bam- 
boo chair,  in  which  they  can  lounge  under  the  graceful 
awning  from  the  heat  of  the  sun,  or  at  night  under  the 
starry  dome  of  a  radiant  heaven.  So  you  have  an  idea 
now  how  the  dreary  hours  are  chased  away  on  shipboard. 

After  four  days  steaming  we  anchor  off  the  city  of  Madras, 
the  worst  landing  probably  for  a  large  city  in  the  world. 
The  surf  is  rough,  and  breaks  with  fearful  violence  along 
the  shore.  There  is  no  wharf  or  port,  but  we  have  an  in- 
genious method  of  landing.  Every  emergency  suggests  a 
remedy,  and  I  suppose  the  long,  deep,  broad  skiff,  or  boat, 
we  descend  into  by  the  ship's  ladder  answers  every  purpose. 
It  is  constructed  of  thin  boards  sewed  together  with  very 
strong  twine.  There  is  not  a  nail  in  it.  Upon  cross-beams, 
or  poles,  sat  about  a  dozen  naked  rowmen,  and  when  we  had 
made  a  bargain  we  started  for  shore.  The  straits  between 
Dover  and  Calais  is  moonlight  sailing  compared  to  the 
mountain  waves  which  we  climbed  and  descended  in  this 
strange  craft,  called  the  massoola.  The  distance  must  have 
been  a  mile  or  more  between  the  ship  and  shore.  Just  be- 
fore we  landed  our  rowers  waited  for  a  big  wave,  which 
shot  us  on  the  beach.  Then  they  folded  their  oars  and 
jumped  overboard,  their  shoulders  reaching  as  high  as  the 
rim  of  the  boat.  I  dropped  myself  calmlv  in  the  arms  of 
25 


(886) 


Voyage  to  Ceylon — Madras.  887 

two  of  these  brawny  fellows,  who  bore  me  safely  to  the  dry 
land.  I  was  struck  with  the  flexibility  and  elasticity  of 
the  massoola.  It  is  simply  marvelous.  No  boat  constructed 
with  nails  could  ever  stand  the  raging  surf  at  Madras.  But 
I  found  another  little  nondescript  here  that  interested  me 
even  more  than  the  massoola.  It  is  a  regular  didapper. 
Nothing  can  sink  it,  and  its  name  is  catamaran.  In  fact, 
it  is  no  boat  at  all ;  it  is  simply  four  logs  tied  together.  I 
would  not  call  it  a  pleasure-boat,  or  even  a  business  craft. 
It  looks  too  uncertain  for  either.  Let  us  call  it  a  fishing- 
boat.  I  purchased  a  little  model  so  as  to  study  the  genius 
of  the  builder.  He  must  have  been  a  living  curiosity  in 
his  day.  The  outside  logs  are  about  six  inches  higher  than 
the  two  central  ones.  The  front  looks  a  trifle  more  boatish. 
The  rower  sits  down  in  the  middle,  holding  the  oar  about 
half  way,  with  which  he  rows  first  on  one  side  and  then  on 
the  other,  much  like  the  Georgia  canoe  is  navigated  in  a 
mill-pond.  I  have  seen  the  waves  break  entirely  over  the 
catamaran,  with  the  boatman  standing  undismayed.  At 
times  it  seemed  to  have  disappeared  altogether,  and  the 
rower  presented  the  appearance  of  a  man  walking  on  the 
sea. 

The  preceding  descriptions  of  chclera  in  Calcutta  and  the 
voyage  to  Madras  appeared  in  my  newspaper  correspond- 
ence of  the  Talbotton  (Ga.)  New  Era. 

Madras  is  one  of  the  four  capital  cities,  or  presidencies, 
second  only  to  Bombay  in  population,  containing  about 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants.  There  are 
no  very  large  cities  in  India,  the  population  living  mostly 
in  villages.  They  speak  a  number  of  dialects,  or  languages, 
the  people  in  one  province  often  not  being  able  to  under- 
stand those  in  another,  as  in  China.  Forty  million  speak 
the  Hindi,  thirty  million  the  Hindoostanee,  ten  million  the 
Mahratti,  twelve  million  the  Tamil,  fourteen  million  the 


S88  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Telegu,  and  thirty  million  the  Bengalee.  The  Tamil  and 
Mahratti  are  languages  of  the  south,  Bengalee  the  language 
of  the  east,  the  Hindi  of  the  central  provinces,  and  the 
Hindoostanee  the  language  of  Lucknow  and  Delhi,  and  up- 
per Valley  of  the  Ganges. 

We  have  been  traveling  by  Madras  time  for  some  days. 
We  find  the  city,  like  Washington,  one  of  magnificent  dis- 
tances. A  fine  English  hotel  fronts  on  the  bay,  and  a  drive 
in  a  gharry  revealed  many  beautiful  streets,  public  squares 
dotted  with  lakes,  fine  public  buildings,  English  and  native 
shops  on  a  magnificent  scale.  Many  of  the  finest  houses 
are  built  of  brick,  two  or  three  stories  in  height.  From 
the  number  of  lights  signaled  for  our  ship  last  night  I 
should  conclude  Madras  to  be  a  city  of  much  commercial 
importance.  The  province  contains  a  population  of  thirty 
million,  with  railroad  communication  across  the  peninsula 
with  Bombay.  There  is  no  particular  historical  association 
that  makes  Madras  a  place  of  much  interest.  She  claims 
the  honor,  I  believe,  of  sending  the  gallant  Gen.  Neill  to 
the  relief  of  Lucknow  during  the  Sepoy  rebellion,  in  which 
he  lost  his  life.  Fort  St.  George,  too,  played  a  conspicuous 
part  in  the  history  of  the  battle  of  Plassey,  having  dis- 
patched Gen.  Clive,  who  won  that  famous  battle  almost 
without  a  fight,  saving  the  city  of  Calcutta  and  deciding 
the  fate  of  India  in  1756.  With  three  thousand  men  he 
defeated  fifty-five  thousand  of  the  enemy.  Some  of  the 
most  fearful  famines  recorded  in  the  history  of  India  have 
occurred  in  remote  parts  of  this  province  from  drought 
that  overwhelmed  the  land  with  death  and  mourning.  In 
1833  it  did  not  rain  at  all.  The  skies  looked  like  brass, 
and  the  Government  was  unable  to  supply  hardly  one  pound 
of  rice  per  day  to  each  inhabitant,  so  great  was  the  suffer- 
ing. The  average  rain-fall  is  about  fifty  inches,  which  oc- 
curs during  the  crop  or  wet  monsoon  from  June  to  October. 


Voyage  to  Ceylon — Madras.  389 

But  Burmah  and  Siam,  across  the  bay  by  ship,  and  Bengal 
by  extended  lines  of  railway,  will  relieve  this  distressing 
want  in  the  future. 

I  had  enjoyed  the  pleasure  of  an  acquaintance  with  Mr. 
Dique,  the  Commissioner  to  the  Calcutta  Exposition,  just 
closed  on  board  our  ship,  who  kindly  invited  me  while 
stopping  in  Madras  to  visit  the  museum  under  his  charge. 
But  the  intense  heat  prevailing  and  want  of  time  deprived 
me  of  this  cherished  desire.  As  the  museum  was  some  dis- 
tance out,  I  concluded  to  stop  at  the  zoological  gardens. 
Here  I  could  study  the  rare  collection  of  native  birds  and 
animals  under  their  own  sunny  skies.  The  Bengal  tiger 
and  lion,  with  all  their  species  of  cats,  catamounts,  leopards, 
etc.,  looked  even  more  ferocious  and  natural  than  in  the 
average  Georgia  circus.  Immense  gray  monkeys  of  a  new 
species,  with  heavy  mane  and  down,  grinned  at  me  in  wooden 
cages,  sometimes  with  a  chain  around  their  necks,  walking 
or  jumping  at  full  length.  I  saw  a  very  small  species  in  a 
variety  of  colors,  with  parrots,  paroquets,  and  many  strange- 
looking  birds  I  had  never  seen  before.  Among  the  animals 
in  India  the  most  curious  are  the  tapir,  the  spotted  deer,  the 
hog  deer,  barking  deer,  and  a  species  of  seal  with  the  legs  and 
body  of  an  animal  perhaps  strikes  one  as  the  most  singular. 

There  are  fifty  thousand  Mohammedans  here,  four  thou- 
sand Europeans,  and  the  remainder  of  the  population  appear 
to  be  Hindoos  and  Eurasians.  There  are  many  temples  of 
the  Hindoos  in  the  city,  with  a  few  mosques  intervening, 
whose  towering  and  graceful  minarets  always  indicate  their 
location.  One  temple  is  deserving  of  special  notice,  being  a 
very  fine  specimen  of  its  peculiar  style  of  architecture.  It 
is  built  of  stone,  and  approached  by  a  massive  gate-way  sur- 
mounted by  a  tower  elaborately  carved  with  the  most  sym- 
metrical designs.  A  portico  extending  at  right  angles  from 
the  main  building,  in  front,  is  protected  by  a  roof  twenty 


390  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

feet  high,  Besting  on  beautiful  columns.  The  columns  re- 
semble granite,  and  are  carved  in  bold  relief.  Like  the 
monkey  temple  I  described  at  Benares,  an  immense  tank 
three  hundred  feet  square,  filled  with  stagnant  water,  stands 
in  front.  The  water  is  reached  by  descending  a  flight  of 
stone  steps  in  the  same  way.  They  bathe  and  wash  in  this 
pool,  or  tank,  at  the  same  time.  The  Hindoo  washes  his 
scanty  garments  while  standing  in  the  water.  Around  on 
the  edges  of  another  lake  I  saw  the  men  and  women  dipping 
their  clothes  in  the  water,  and  raising  them  on  high  brought 
them  down  in  the  most  vigorous  manner  on  a  solid  rock. 
The  buttons  flew.  I  supposed  this  to  be  a  public  laundry. 
A  curious  sight  was  to  see  a  woman  washing  one  part  of  a 
loose  garment  she  had  on  while  she  was  endeavoring  to  con- 
ceal her  person  with  the  other  part. 

A  great  clumsy  car,  on  tall  wooden  wheels,  was  rolled 
aside  on  one  of  the  streets  I  came  down.  It  appeared  to  be 
at  least  fifteen  feet  in  height,  with  a  profusion  of  ornamental 
carving  in  iron  and  teak-wood,  representing  Hindoo  idols. 
The  wheels  must  have  been  six  feet  in  diameter.  This  is 
the  famous  Juggernaut  car,  I  suppose,  that  during  the  festi- 
vals in  honor  of  this  god,  twice  a  year,  is  drawn  through 
the  streets  by  five  or  six  hundred  men,  who  pull  it  by  long 
ropes.  Here  the  Hindoos  wear  the  chalk-marks  too,  to  indi- 
cate their  faith.  I  have  seen  broad  bands,  generally  white, 
on  their  foreheads,  on  their  nose,  and  sometimes  a  trident 
extending  upward  from  its  base  in  white  and  colored  lines. 
During  the  festivals  the  Nautch  girls  (naughty  girls)  dance 
in  front  of  the  temples.  Some  of  them  are  quite  pretty. 
They  dress  in  gorgeous  silk  robes,  and  resemble  the  mulatto 
girls  of  Georgia  in  complexion.  As  they  dance  they  display 
their  jewels,  ringlets,  bracelets,  bangles,  and  rings  with  mar- 
velous effect.  Even  their  toes  and  ankles  are  encircled 
with  pearls. 


Voyage  to  Ceylon — Madras.  391 

In  the  missionary  schools,  which  are  largely  patronized 
by  the  natives,  a  regular  curriculum  of  studies  in  English 
is  taught  the  boys,  who  mingle  freely,  regardless  of  caste. 
But  the  girls  in  their  schools  observe  the  inexorable  dis- 
tinctions. There  appear  to  be  no  mixed  schools  in  India. 
The  pariah  or  low  caste  girls  sit,  eat,  and  sleep  on  mats. 
There  are  probably  thirty  thousand  native  Christians  in 
Madras.  But  when  the  wealthy  classes  are  once  reached 
through  the  hospitals  and  zenanas  and  instructed,  the  prog- 
ress of  conversion  will  be  rapid  throughout  India.  The 
English  Government  is  wise  in  the  unrestrained  liberty  it 
gives  to  every  shade  of  religious  opinion  and  worship.  She 
restores  old  palaces,  mosques,  and  monuments  to  exalt  the 
pride  of  the  native ;  donates  millions  of  rupees  to  public  ed- 
ucation, Church  extension,  and  missionary  work ;  winning 
the  affections  of  the  people  over  to  the  support  of  her  Gov- 
ernment. It  is  only  a  question  of  time  when  caste,  with  its 
traditional  prejudice,  must  yield  to  the  superior  civilization 
of  Bible  England,  and  millions  of  benighted  India  be 
brought  to  a  knowledge  of  the  saving  power  of  Jesus.  We 
have  found  excellent  English  hotels  in  all  the  principal 
cities  and  towns  of  India,  and  where  they  are  wanting  the 
native  bungalow  approaches  them  in  comfort.  Ample 
veranda,  ventilation,  and  bath-tubs  are  the  distinguishing 
features  of  a  good  hotel  in  this  tropical  climate.  Fruits 
and  vegetables  abound  throughout  the  year,  with  poultry, 
game,  steak,  and  mutton,  eggs,  and  an  abundant  supply  of 
fish  and  shrimp  along  the  sea-coast.  Curry  is  the  universa, 
dish  served  on  every  table.  The  rice  is  cooked  dry  and 
always  eaten  with  curry  or  gravy  and  a  small  dried  fish 
called  Bombay  duck.  The  chicken,  beef,  and  sprawn  are 
favorite  curries  among  all  foreigners.  Nothing  is  more  de- 
licious. The  orange  and  banana  are  eaten  throughout  the 
year.  The  mango  and  biwa,  or  Japan  plum,  begin  to  ripen 


392  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

in  April  and  last  two  or  three  months.  The  Englishman 
carries  his  habits  around  the  world  with  him.  He  enjoys 
his  club-house,  race-track,  cricket-ground,  lawn  tennis,  and 
yatching,  even  under  the  equator. 

The  Hindoo  has  wonderful  genius  for  juggling,  puzzles, 
and  cunning  devices  to  amuse  or  interest  you.  The  hotel 
was  crowded  with  these  fellows,  who  would  sell  you  the 
most  mystical  block,  string,  or  ring  puzzles  for  half  a  rupee 
and  then  teach  you  how  to  work  them.  When  we  reached 
our  ship  again  we  found  the  snake-charmer,  with  a  little 
covered  basket  under  his  arm  and  his  quaint  flageolet,  added 
to  every  conceivable  attraction  in  the  way  of  curios  that 
could  be  offered.  Our  decks  presented  the  appearance  of  a 
museum,  a  small  opera,  theater  comique,  zoological  garden, 
bazaar,  and  circus.  Here  was  a  dark  Adam  with  a  half 
dozen  monkeys  at  seventy-five  cents  each,  another  with  par- 
oquets, a  third  with  stuffed  specimens,  while  a  half  dozen 
naked  venders  of  stag  and  bullock  horns  highly  polished 
vied  with  fiddlers  drawing  their  little  bows  across  cocoa-nut 
shells.  Such  a  blowing,  tooting,  and  screeching  I  had  never 
heard.  I  concluded  to  take  the  whole  cargo,  but  my  rupees 
did  not  hold  out.  As  we  approached  to  make  a  critical  ex- 
amination the  Hindoo  made  a  profound  salaam  and  began 
to  spread.  We  stood  with  wondering  eyes.  Here  were 
fabrics  of  silk  and  cloth,  interwoven  with  the  finest  threads 
of  silver  and  gold — marvelous  creations.  Exquisite  lam- 
brequins, table-covers,  and  curtains,  wrought  with  stars, 
spangles,  and  flowers  of  the  most  delicate  workmanship. 
No  wonder  Macaulay  pictured  such  glowing  descriptions 
of  Benares  and  "its  silks,  which  went  forth  from  the 
looms  of  this  city  to  adorn  the  halls  of  St.  James  and 
Versailles." 

In  three  days  we  sighted  the  Island  of  Ceylon,  situated  at 
the  foot  of  India,  like  Key  West  is  at  the  foot  of  Flori- 


Island  and  Capital  of  Ceylon.  393 

da.    In  an  analogous  comparison,  Calcutta  occupies  the  po- 
sition of  Fernandina  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  peninsula. 

We  passed  in  sight  of  Point  de  Galle,  which  was  once  a 
busy  port  before  Colombo  eclipsed  it  in  commercial  impor- 
tance. The  French  Imperial  Messageries  is  the  only  line, 
I  believe,  now  touching  at  this  once  famous  city.  All  the 
other  great  lines — including  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
British  India  Anchor  Line,  Holt,  Liverpool;  Carleton  & 
Moffat's  sailing  ships,  New  York,  and  others — stop  at  Co- 
lombo. The  two  cities  are  seventy-five  miles  apart.  It 
was  quite  dark  before  we  made  the  wharf  and  custom- 
house, through  which  we  had  no  difficulty  in  passing  to 
reach  the  Grand  Oriental  Hotel.  Our  ship  lay  off  about 
two  miles  in  the  open  roadstead. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

COLOMBO — ITS  CHARMS — ARABI  PASHA — VISIT  TO  KAN- 
DY — SAIL  FOR  CHINA  BY  THE  "HYDASPES,"  OF  THE 
PENINSULAR  AND  ORIENTAL  LINE.* 

SINCE  our  arrival  here  from  India  we  have  seen  much 
of  Ceylon,  having  thirteen  days  to  await  the  arrival  of 
the  China  steamer. 

Ceylon  is  a  large  island,  lying  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  south 
of  India,  seven  degrees  north  of  the  equator.  Its  soil  is 
rich  and  teems  Avith  tropical  verdure.  The  climate  being 
torrid  conduces  largely  to  plant-life — its  rapid  growth  and 
luxuriance  being  marvelous. 

This  city  is  the  capital  of  the  island,  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  Sir 
Arthur  Gordon  is  the  present  English  Governor,  residing  at 
the  Pavilion  here  most  of  the  year.  I  am  greatly  indebted 
to  the  executive  office  for  letters  of  introduction  to  the  sev- 

•*This  chapter  appeared  as  a  letter  in  the  Talbotton  (Ga.)  New  Era. 


394  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

eral  departments  at  Kandy.  The  Governor  is  absent  at 
New-Relia,  a  mountain  resort  seven  thousand  feet  high ;  but 
the  great  financial  crash -the  failure  of  the  Oriental  Bank 
has  produced  in  the  past  two  days  will  cause  his  hasty  de- 
scent. Nearly  every  interest  of  the  island  seems  identified 
in  some  way  with  this  gigantic  banking  institution.  We 
understand  "  too  much  planter's  paper"  is  the  trouble.  Rice- 
planters,  and  tea-planters,  cinchona  and  coffee  estates,  are 
all  involved.  Five  years  of  bad  seasons,  failure  of  the 
coffee  crops,  decline  in  cinchona  (quinine-bark),  etc.,  are 
cited  as  probable  causes.  However,  the  Governor  has  ar- 
rived and  confidence  is  being  restored — the  panic  subsiding 
since  the  issue  of  the  Governor's  proclamation.  The  bank 
will  go  into  liquidation,  but  arrangements  have  been  made 
to  keep  their  notes  floating — about  $15,000,000. 

One  of  the  greatest  swells' of  this  beautiful  city  is  Arabi 
Pasha,  the  exiled  Egyptian  General,  whom  the  British  Gov- 
ernment allows  choice  privileges  of  a  quiet,  pleasant  even- 
ing. He  may  be  seen  from  my  window  at  the  Grand  Oriental 
Hotel,  driving  a  nobby  team,  behind  which  may  be  observed 
brilliant  flashes  from  dark  eyes  that  speak  eloquently  against 
the  solitude  of  Arabi's  prison-life. 

The  Oriental  is  a  scene  of  continual  gayety,  many  steam- 
ers arriving  and  departing  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  Here 
the  ships  from  Australia,  India,  China,  and  Europe  touch 
for  exchange  of  passengers  and  a  fresh  supply  of  coal. 

It  is  always  spring  here — no  frost,  no  winter,  and  a  change 
in  temperature  only  occurs  when  the  monsoons  prevail. 
The  winds  blow  hard  at  times,  but  it  does  not  rain  more 
than  three  to  six  months  in  the  year.  The  most  enormous 
rain-falls  in  the  world  occur,  sometimes  more  than  one 
hundred  inches  in  a  yeaf  having  been  recorded.  The  nat- 
ural phenomenon  of  thunder  and  lightning  accompanies  the 
showers,  as  in  Georgia. 


Island  and  Capital  of  Ceylon.  395 

The  cinnamon  gardens  and  the  Buddhist  temple  are 
among  the  attractions  in  Colombo.  Nearly  all  the  spices 
grow  to  perfection  in  Ceylon.  Our  excellent  consul,  Col. 
Morey — for  many  years  resident  in  this  country — has 
contributed  largely  to  my  pleasure  and  study  of  Ceylon. 
Through  his  kindness  I  have  been  presented  with  some  fine 
specimens  of  cinnamon-bark,  which,  with  other  objects  of 
interest,  I  Hope  to  present  to  our  agricultural  department 
in  Atlanta. 

This  morning  I  spent  a  pleasant  hour  I  cannot  soon  for- 
get with  Mr.  Ferguson,  editor  of  the  Daily  Observer.  This 
paper  has  been  established  in  Colombo  forty-seven  years, 
and  is  the  strong  advocate  of  a  sound  political  policy  on 
the  part  of  the  Government  and  the  champion  of  every  in- 
terest that  consults  the  advancement  of  this  wonderful  isl- 
and. I  am  glad  to  inform  you  newspapers  pay  well  and 
are  highly  appreciated  in  this  part  of  the  world.  I  found 
in  India,  as  well  as  in  Ceylon,  that  no  merchant  or  busi- 
ness man  attempts  to  do  business  outside  of  the  newspaper 
columns.  It  seems  that  every  want  is  consulted,  as  well  as 
every  article  for  sale  is  advertised. 

As  I  have  said,  Ceylon  is  a  large  island,  belonging  to 
Great  Britain.  Away  from  the  sea-coast  rise  lofty  hills  and 
mountains.  Adam's  Peak,  where  the  blue  sapphire  and 
other  precious  stones  are  found,  is  visible  in  the  distance. 
But  in  the  interior  the  highest  elevations  are  to  be  seen, 
covered  with  the  densest  tropical  growth,  vine  and  jungle. 
At  their  base  in  the  jungle  are  to  be  found  tigers,  lions,  ele- 
phants, etc. 

It  was  my  object  to  study  the  picturesque  scenes  pre- 
sented in  a  ramble  around  the  charming  town  of  Kandy 
that  induced  a  change  from  the  equatorial  heat  of  Colombo 
to  an  elevation  nearly  two  thousand  feet  above  that  beauti- 
ful metropolis.  I  have  not  regretted  my  visit  since  I  have 


396  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

found  the  temperature  reduced  from  ninety  to  seventy  de- 
grees and  the  nights  cool  and  delicious.  In  front  of  the 
Queen's  Hotel  is  a  charming  lake  one  mile  and  a  half  in  cir- 
cumference, with  a  drive  more  charming.  Above  this  lake 
rise  lofty  mountains,  from  whose  summits  an  enraptured 
view  of  its  crystal  waters  and  the  magnificent  city  below 
can  be  enjoyed.  On  the  side  of  these  mountains  may  be 
seen  coffee,  cocoa,  and  cinnamon  growing,  while  at  their  base 
thfj  cocoa-nut  palm,  banana,  and  mango  flourish  in  wildest 
profusion.  The  railroad  from  Colombo  to  Kandy  is  a  won- 
derful piece  of  engineering.  The  distance  is  seventy-four 
and  one-half  miles,  and  it  rises  one  thousand  seven  hundred 
feet  in  forty  or  fifty  miles  of  this  distance.  There  is  an  en- 
gine behind  and  one  in  front,  but  the  speed  is  very  slow. 
At  Sensation  Rock,  where  there  is  a  tunnel,  I  looked  down 
a  thousand  feet,  as  we  seemed  crawling  around  on  the  side 
of  a  lofty  mountain,  every  foot  of  which  had  been  blasted 
out  of  the  granite  rock  for  a  road-bed.  The  paddy  (rice) 
fields  with  terraced  borders  glistened  below,  while  nature 
in  its  wildest  forms  struggled  for  ascendency  on  the  rugged 
sides  of  the  opposite  mountains. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

OBSERVATIONS  IN  AND  ABOUT  COLOMBO. 

J7IROM  the  hotel  veranda  we  enjoy  a  magnificent  view  of 
JL  the  beautiful  harbor,  crowded  with  ships  of  every  nation. 
The  native  craft,  with  their  peculiar  rig  and  lanteen  sails 
lazily  flapping  before  a  gentle  breeze,  lend  a  picturesque 
charm  to  the  scene.  As  there  are  no  wharves,  the  ships 
must  anchor  off  in  the  breakwater — an  expensive  work  be- 
gun by  the  Government  fourteen  years  ago,  consisting  of  a 
sea-wall;  when  completed  it  promises  to  furnish  Colombo 
with  a  safe  anchorage.  Its  estimated  cost  is  $3,000,000. 


Island  and  Capital  of  Ceylon.  397 

Our  hotel  is  conducted  by  English  proprietors,  and  is 
built  on  the  grandest  scale  imaginable.  It  is  o\vned  by  a 
stock  company.  Its  elegant  parlors,  halls,  verandas,  and 
beautiful  court,  on  the  arrival  of  the  steamers,  are  thronged 
with  the  best  class  of  European  travel,  the  aristocracy  and 
titled  gentry  of  England.  Many  English  and  Scotch  are 
engaged  in  planting  on  the  island,  or  are  employed  here  in 
various  lines  of  business,  whose  occasional  presence  about 
the  Grand  Oriental  renders  its  social  features  highly  agree- 
able. The  bulletin-boards  are  watched  with  intense  eager- 
ness, showing  the  arrivals  and  departures  of  various  steam- 
ers, which  occur  almost  daily.  The  gayety  of  the  scene 
presented  in  consequence  would  remind  you  of  a  watering- 
place.  Here  are  people  meeting  each  other  from  the  anti- 
podes— from  America,  Australia,  Europe,  Japan,  and  China. 
Sir  John  and  I  fcave  our  rooms  close  together,  with  capital 
baths  and  service.  Almost  at  every  door  stands  a  Singha- 
lese man  to  wait  on  you.  We  have  found  the  table  all  we 
could  desire,  the  curry  and  mangoes  being  especially  fine. 
There  is  a  greater  variety  of  fruit  here  than  we  saw  even  in 
India.  It  is  ripening  every  month  in  the  year.  A  sweet 
orange  with  a  green  skin  i&  one  of  the  novelties.  We  have 
pine-apples  and  bananas,  of  most  delicious  flavor.  Vegeta- 
bles are  in  great  variety.  Our  beef  and  mutton  are  native 
or  come  from  India,  and  their  quality  is  not  so  good  as  in 
Europe  or  America.  Poultry,  eggs,  and  fish  are  very  abun- 
dant; shrimps  plentiful;  but  oysters  are  seldom  eaten  in 
low  latitudes,  I  believe.  With  all  the  luxuries  we  enjoy  at 
the  Oriental,  I  am  only  paying  one  dollar  and  sixty  cents 
per  day.  Even  baths,  service,  and  lights  are  included,  with 
coffee  and  tea  before  breakfast  in  our  rooms.  Early  in  the 
morning  we  started  out  sight-seeing.  We  had  seen  some 
remarkable  sights  before  starting.  A  Hindoo  merchant 
from  Calcutta  is  displaying  a  gorgeous  spread  under  the 


398  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

arcade  of  the  hotel,  consisting  of  India  shawls,  jewels,  silver 
and  gold  bangles.  In  front  of  us  has  walked  up  a  Hindoo 
juggler  with  a  covered  basket  under  his  naked  arm.  He 
sets  it  on  the  ground,  raises  the  cloth,  begins  to  blow  in  the 
cobra's  ear  with  his  flageolet.  The  venomous  serpent,  rais- 
ing his  head  high  above  the  basket,  spreads  it  several  inches 
wide,  displaying  his  black  tongue  and  white  spots  on  his 
body.  He  takes  the  huge  snake  out  of  the  basket,  folding  it 
around  his  neck  and  body,  and  begins  to  grow  a  mango-tree 
from  a  seed.  For  one  time  my  fortunate  position  overhead 
in  the  hanging-gallery  would  enable  me  to  detect  the  vag- 
abond if  he  attempted  a  fraud  on  his  audience.  Assum- 
ing *the  usual  squat,  he  placed  a  single  mango-seed  on  the 
hard  pavement,  covered  it  with  a  handful  of  soil,  sprinkled 
it  over  with  water,  blew  his  flageolet  again,  sprinkled  once 
more,  and  in  a  few  minutes,  to  our  utter  astpnishment,  I  saw 
a  small  plant  bursting  out  of  the  hill  of  dirt.  In  five  minutes 
the  mango-seed  grew  into  a  little  tree.  The  entire  audience 
of  English  people  burst  into  a  tremendous  applause.  The 
Hindoo,  passing  around  his  hat,  retired  wealthy. 

Little  drummers,  with  their  tortoise-shell  combs,  dia- 
monds, sapphires,  and  cat's-eyes-,  had  nearly  overwhelmed 
us  on  our  arrival.  We  had  been  requested  by  a  man  of 
fine  port,  wearing  immense  goggles,  to  buy  a  cat's-eye  worth 
ten  thousand  dollars,  he  said.  Shortly  afterward  I  learned 
that  a  peck  of  these  stones  had  been  discovered  in  a  pile  on 
Adam's  Peak,  and  I  was  glad  we  did  not  buy  that  cat's-eye. 
At  every  turn  you  see  something  to  amuse  you.  The  first 
mistake  I  made  was  to  suppose  a  Singhalese  man  to  be  a 
woman.  He  was  walking  away  from  me  at  the  time,  with 
an  old-fashioned  tuck-comb  stuck  in  the  top  of  his  head, 
from  which  fell  in  graceful  profusion  a  wealth  of  disheveled 
black  hair  down  to  his  waist.  I  was  about  to  go  into  rapt- 
ures over  this  comelv  maiden  when  I  was  informed  she  was 


Island  and  Capital  of  C&ylon.  399 

a  man.  The  men  and  women  seem  to  dress  pretty  much 
alike — those  who  dress  at  all — with  the  exception  I  have 
mentioned.  The  women  comb  their  hair  back,  tie  it  up  in 
a  little  knot,  like  the  Georgia  girl,  and  go  along.  I  must 
insist  the  men  have  actually  stolen  their  tuck-combs  from 
them,  which  you  can  see  them  wearing  anywhere  in  Co- 
lombo, for  nearly  all  the  natives  go  bareheaded  and  bare- 
foot. Many  wear  the  turban.  The  chetty  merchants,  under 
the  grand  arcade  of  the  Oriental,  sometimes  wear  a  curiously 
shaped  cap  that  resembles  a  stove-pipe  cut  oif  six  inches 
long.  These  people  are  yellow  or  dark  in  complexion,  pos- 
sessing warm,  brown  skins  and  good  figures.  The  men  are 
very  much  attached  to  their  wives,  whom  they  keep  pretty 
close  at  home.  If  divorces  ever  occur,  they  are  very  rare 
among  these  people.  I  heard  of  "none  among  the  Hindoos 
in  India ;  but  among  the  Mohammedans,  in  some  countries, 
it  is  very  easy  to  get  a  divorce.  They  have  many  wives, 
like  the  Mormons.  They  must  go  before  the  priest  with 
some  pretext  before  the  thing  can  be  done.  Sometimes  a 
man  may  divorce  all  five  of  his  wives  and  concubines  at 
one  time  in  Persia,  and  "begin  over  again."  Another  law 
in  that  country  permits  a  man  and  woman  to  marry  on  trial, 
six  months  or  fifty  years.  The  time  is  always  settled  on 
before  the  priest. 

The  women  generally  seen  on  the  streets  here  wear  a  loose 
jacket,  with  a  sort  of  skirt  gathered  about  their  hips;  but 
in  the  country  they  wear  little  or  no  clothing  at  all.  A  so- 
ciety belle  in  .Colombo,  I  presume,  would  be  expected  to 
spend  very  little  time  on  her  wardrobe,  for  her  shapely  arms 
must  glitter  with  bangles  and  her  ankles  and  toes  with 
pearls.  Her  ears,  nose,  and  even  elbows,  are  adorned  with 
rings.  The  poor  laboring  women,  in  their  endeavor  to  rival 
the  more  fortunate  of  their  sex,  pierce  the  rim  of  their  ears 
in  a  dozen  places,  and  wear  a  ring  in  each  hole ;  and  some- 


400 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


\ 


TAMIL   MOTHERS  IN   FULL   COSTUME. 

times  I  have  seen  large  rings  hanging  from  the  cartilage  of 
their  noses.  It  is  amusing  to  see  the  babies  dressed  in  or- 
naments, with  not  a  bit  of  clothing  on.  That  would  be 
considered  extravagance.  The  jewelry  is  often  of  solid 
gold  and  silver,  with  pearls,  while  brass  is  worn  among 
the  poor.  The  street  gamins  of  Colombo  are  a  beggarly 
set.  I  believe  ten  cents  a  year  would  clothe  the  most  reck- 
less of  them.  Alas,  alas!  with  all  this  economy,  Ferguson's 
Hand-book  reports  a  falling  off  in  the  importation  of  fig- 
ured cotton  goods  into  Ceylon. 

The  Singhalese  are  the  aborigines  of  Ceylon.     As  mer- 


Island  and  Capital  of  Ceylon.  401 

chants  they  are  educated,  well-dressed  gentlemen,  polite, 
and  speak  good  English.  The  Singhalese  type  and  char- 
acter are  nearly  allied  to  those  of  the  Bangalese;  and  in 
language,  religion,  and  traditions  they  generally  approach 
closely  to  the  Indo-Chinese  nations,  and  especially  the 
Burmese.  The  religion  of  the  Singhalese  is  Buddhism,  but 
the  upper  classes  profess  Christianity,  and  many  have  been 
converted  to  Islamism. 

The  Moormen,  who  constitute  a  large  class  of  Colom- 
bo's population,  are  said  to  be  very  shrewd  in  banking  and 
trade.  I  have  often  met  these  people  about  the  Grand 
Oriental  Hotel  with  bags  of  silver  rupees  to  exchange 
for  English  sovereigns.  They  are  the  money-changers  ^f 
the  island.  In  religion  the  Moormen  are  nearly  all  Mo- 
hammedan. 

The  Tamils,  who  number  quite  one-third  of  the  entire 
population,  mostly  inhabit  the  coffee  districts,  or  northern 
portion  of  the  island.  They  emigrated  over  here  from  In- 
dia. Tamil  women  are  easily  distinguished  by  a  scarf — 
usually  of  flaming  colors — which  they  pass  over  one  shoul- 
der and  fasten  around  the  waist. 

Col.  Ferguson,  of  the  Observer,  has  placed  me  under  ob- 
ligations for  a  copy  of  his  invaluable  Hand-book  to  Ceylon 
for  1883  and  1884.  From  it  I  learn  the  island  embraces 
about  fifteen  million  acres  of  surface,  much  of  which  is  a 
rich,  deep  chocolate  soil  of  great  fertility.  The  entire  pop- 
ulation approximates  three  million  inhabitants.  No  island 
in  the  world  surpasses  it  for  picturesqueness.  Its  physical 
aspect  presents  interminable  jungles  of  vine  and  densest  fo- 
liage, with  beautiful  valleys  in  the  interior  and  mountains 
that  rise  five  to  seven  thousand  feet  in  elevation.  It  is 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  circumference.  In  some 
of  the  districts  the  population  will  average  four  hundred  to 
five  hundred  inhabitants  to  the  square  mile.  Near  Adam's 
26 


402 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


Peak  one  hundred  and  forty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  inches 
of  rain-fall  is  the  average  per  annum.  In  one  district  it 
rains  two  hundred  and  thirty-seven  days  in  a  year.  This 


SCENE   IN  CEYLON,   NEAR  COLOMBO. 

excessive  rain-fall  tempers  the  heat  of  the  climate,  producing 
a  mean  temperature  of  sixty-eight  degrees.  April  and  May- 
are  the  hot  months.  As  we  ascend  higher  altitudes  the  cli- 
mate is  perfection.  People  live  to  be  eighty  and  one  hun- 
dred years  old.  Nearly  every  day  in  the  year  there  is  sun- 
shine. The  weather  reminds  me  of  April  in  Georgia,  ex- 
'cept  the  heat  is  much  more  intense.  There  is  the  same 
kind  of  thunder  and  lightning  here  as  on  the  other  side  of 


Island  and  Capital  of  Ceylon.  403 

the  globe.  It  did  seem  so  familiar  to  me.  As  there  is  not 
even  frost  at  four  thousand  feet  elevation,  we  may  enjoy 
perpetual  spring  the  year  round.  The  birds  sing  the  live- 
long day,  and  the  flowers  are  always  blooming,  while  fruits 
and  vegetables  appear  in  succession  throughout  the  year. 
Near  the  coast  forests  of  cocoa-nut  palms  wave  their  feath- 
ery plumage.  Between  the  coast  and  mountain  ranges  lie 
rich  alluvial  plains,  cultivated  in  rice.  As  we  ascend  high- 
er temperatures  coffee,  tea,  cocoa,  and  cinchona  appear. 
The  collection  of  fruits,  indigenous  and  cultivated,  is  sim- 
ply marvelous.  At  a  horticultural  fair  held  in  this  city 
last  year,  in  July,  were  exhibited  many  English  as  well  as 
native  fruits.  Among  the  number  were  mangoes,  plantains, 
oranges,  peaches,  prunellos,  custard-apples,  pine-apples,  mel- 
ons, grapes,  figs,  limes,  guavas,  sour  sops,  bullock  hearts, 
mangosteens,  rambutans,  loquats,  plums,  lavi-lovies,  papaws, 
and  dorians. 

It  is  estimated  that  an  acre  of  plantains  here  will  yield 
as  much  nutritious  food  as  sixty  acres  of  wheat  in  India. 
With  the  jack  fruit  it  furnishes  the  cheapest  bread  in  the 
world.  Here  the  natives  can  almost  live  without  labor, 
fruit  is  so  abundant.  Dilke  calls  it  the  "devil's  agent,"  it 
creates  so  much  idleness.  A  pretty  good  fortune  for  any 
native  who  is  ambitious  to  become  wealthy  is  a  dozen  cocoa- 
nut-trees  and  two  jacks.  He  may  be  considered  a  bloated 
aristocrat  with  all  this  property.  A  cocoa-nut-tree  will 
yield  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  or  more  nuts.  These 
are  worth  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  cents  each,  so  the  in- 
come from  twelve  trees  would  be  twenty-five  to  thirty  dol- 
lars per  annum.  I  was  surprised  at  the  prodigious  size  the 
jack  attains.  A  single  fruit  has  been  known  to  weigh  fifty 
pounds.  A  tree  about  the  size  of  a  large  apple-tree  will 
bear  from  one  to  two  hundred.  When  cut  open  and  sliced 
up  the  flavor  is  very  agreeable,  resembling  in  texture  the 


404  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

pine-apple,  though  not  so  delicious.  The  natives  are  very 
fond  of  it.  At  Nuwara  Eliya,  six  thousand  two  hundred 
and  thirty-four  feet  above  the  sea,  an  English  woman,  Mrs. 
Hay,  supported  herself  and  children  from  the  proceeds  of 
her  garden.  In  the  month  of  January  she  sent  to  market 
green  pease,  brussel  sprouts,  strawberries,  knohl-kohls,  tur- 
nips, carrots,  leeks,  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  sago,  thyme,  and 
parsley. 

Any  number  of  plants  yielding  oil-seed  and  cake  might 
be  grown  in  Ceylon.  Some  of  the  most  beautiful  woods  are 
found  here.  The  jack-tree  is  valuable  not  only  for  its  pal- 
atable fruit,  but  when  sawed  into  boards  resembles  mahog- 
any. The  famous  calamander,  though  growing  very  scarce, 
is  the  finest  of  the  fancy  woods.  When  polished  it  pre- 
sents an  admixture  of  colors  of  chocolate,  fawn,  and  cream 
that  blend  into  each  other.  The  tamarind,  ebony,  flowered 
satin-wood,  iron-wood,  nedum  del  cocoa-nut,  sapan-wood, 
are  either  cultivated  or  indigenous  in  Ceylon.  The  sapan 
is  largely  exported  for  its  dye ;  palmyra  and  ebony  for  works 
of  art  or  furniture.  Nearly  all  these  valuable  timbers  are 
grown  from  seeds,  which  are  first  planted  in  beds  and  trans- 
planted. They  are  often  dropped  in  places  for  permanent 
growth.  The  list  is  too  comprehensive  to  enumerate  in  a 
work  of  this  kind.  But  I  trust  I  shall  be  pardoned  if  I 
have  appeared  somewhat  tedious  in  my  descriptions  of  the 
wonderful  fauna  and  flora  of  Ceylon,  as  I  have  felt  a  deep 
interest  in  the  study  of  its  plant-life,  its  beautiful  forms  and 
organism. 

I  have  spent  some  days  now  in  this  charming  city. 
Its  gardens  and  lakes  are  attractive,  and  its  drives  down 
the  sea-shore  just  lovely.  The  Gall  Face  Hotel,  two  miles 
distant,  looks  out  from  a  cocoa-nut  grove  on  the  rolling 
surf  of  the  sea.  Mount  Lavinia  is  six  miles  down  the 
coast,  a  most  picturesque  place  to  visit,  with  another  good 


Kandy — Tea  and  Cocoa  Culture.  405 

English  hotel  for  comfort.  I  have  already  mentioned  the 
cinnamon-gardens  and  Pagoda  in  Colombo.  Cinnamon 
appears  to  be  indigenous  here.  The  bark  is  taken  off  the 
trees,  carried  through  a  heating  or  curing  process,  then 
graded  for  market.  Except  the  manufactures  of  the  na- 
tives already  mentioned,  cocoa  is  made  into  chocolate  and 
cocoa-nuts  into  oil  by  steam-mills  operated  by  English  cap- 
italists. Ceylon  was  first  settled  by  the  Portuguese  several 
hundred  years  ago.  The  Dutch  whipped  out  the  Portu- 
guese, and  the  English  whipped  out  the  Dutch  in  1796. 
This  pleasant  old  story  of  England's  conquest  goes  the  world 
around.  But  I  rejoice  in  English  dominion  and  the  power 
of  her  arms.  She  is  planting  the  Bible  and  her  Christian 
civilization  upon  every  shore,  sea,  and  land.  The  English 
language  girdles  the  world.  I  love  my  own  country,  but  I 
am  proud  of  my  ancestry. 


CHAPTER  XL. 

KANDY — TEA  AND  COCOA  CULTURE. 

Government  owns  the  six  lines  of  railway  in  Cey- 
JL  Ion,  aggregating  in  total  length  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
nine  and  one-fourth  miles.  The  longest  road  is  from  Co- 
lombo to  this  city  (Kandy),  seventy-four  and  a  half  miles. 
The  shortest  is  a  wharf  branch  in  Colombo,  being  just  one 
mile.  The  gauge  is  five  feet  six  inches,  the  most  costly  be- 
ing the  line  to  Kandy,  in  consequence  of  tunnels  through 
the  mountains.  This  road  cost  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty-three  rupees,  or  one 
hundred  and  sixteen  thousand  six  hundred  and  seventy-six 
dollars,  per  mile. 

Kandy,  the  former  capital  of  the  old  kings  of  Kandy, 
boasts  of  twenty-two  thousand  inhabitants.     It  is  a  beauti- 


406  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ful  city,  embosomed  in  the  very  depths  of  the  mountains. 
I  enjoyed  a  drive  around  the  lake,  the  first  morning  after 
arrival,  in  a  four-wheel  bandy,  under  clusters  of  bamboo 
and  mango-trees  that  adorned  its  margin.  The  shape  of 
the  lake  is  somewhat  irregular,  being  inclosed  by  an  arti- 
ficial wall  on  two  sides,  with  mountains  rising  about  it  on 
the  others.  There  are  terraced  walks  and  drives  up  to  their 
very  summits.  I  found  several  bath  and  boat  houses  around 
its  shores,  and  the  English  playing  cricket.  The  old  boat- 
house  of  the  last  king  projects  over  the  lake  on  this  charm- 
ing drive. 

Enjoying  an  excellent  breakfast,  with  a  cup  of  good  Cey- 
lon coffee,  I  suppose,  I  started  with  my  guide  for  the  old 
Buddhist  temple,  which  probably  is  the  most  famous  in  the 
world.  It  enjoys  the  celebrity  of  possessing  one  of  Bud- 
dha's teeth,  with  other  souvenirs.  It  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  a  few  hundred  yards  distant  from  the 
Queen's  Hotel.  Close  by  is  the  old  palace,  in  which  the 
kings  once  lived.  We  found  a  festival  going  on.  An  im- 
mense crowd  of  pilgrims  and  devotees  were  pressing  into 
this  old  stone  building  toward  the  sacred  emblems  and 
shrines,  before  which  they  were  bowing  and  making  offer- 
ings of  flowers.  The  yellow-robed  priests,  with  clean-shaved 
faces  and  heads,  were  conspicuous  for  consequential  airs  and 
dignity  on  this  occasion.  There  was  a  flower-market  on  the 
first  floor,  where  every  pilgrim  was  purchasing  an  offering. 
We  pressed  through  the  surging  mass  of  heathens  up  a  nar- 
row flight  of  stone  steps  to  the  second  story  of  the  temple. 
Here  the  flowers  were  being  offered  before  the  different  im- 
ages and  divinities — one  a  large  statue  of  glass — to  appease 
their  wrath,  or  in  propitiation  of  some  sin.  In  one  corner 
of  the  room  was  a  golden  casket,  containing  Buddha's  tooth. 
Imagine  my  consternation  when  the  guide  said :  "  Though 
Buddha's  tooth  is  in  there,  it  is  too  sacred  to  be  seen."  How 


Kandy — Tea  and  Cocoa  Culture.  407 

can  a  man  bear  every  thing?  Here  I  had  traveled  twelve 
thousand  miles,  and  could  n't  even  see  his  tooth.  His  foot- 
print was  on  Adam's  Peak,  so  I  heard ;  but  I  did  not  care  to 
see  that.  We  departed.  My  guide  translated  some  inscrip- 
tions, illustrated  on  the  front  wall  of  the  old  temple,  that 
answered  to  the  Ten  Commandments  of  our  Lord.  One 
figure  represented  a  man  in  torment  for  some  sin,  another 
being  punished  for  stealing  from  his  neighbor,  and  a  third 
cartoon  illustrated  the  rape  of  the  Sabines — so  I  imagined 
— and  the  punishment  thereof.  "Thou  shalt  not  kill"  was 
distinctly  recognized.  There  were  ten  in  all.  Some  old 
Bibles  of  the  prophet  were  stored  away  out  of  Bight,  writ- 
ten on  palm-leaves ;  and  any  number  of  new  ones  for  sale 
in  the  Tamil  and  Singhalese  languages.  I  bought  a  small 
edition  for  honorary  membership  in  my  library. 

I  returned  to  the  Queen's  Hotel  to  enjoy  the  beauty  of 
the  lake,  mountains,  and  vale,  that  make  up  a  diadem  of  a 
picture  in  which  Kandy  is  set  like  a  gem.  The  mountains 
rise  above  the  town  to  a  fearful  height.  Their  sloping  sides 
are  terraced  one  above  the  other  with  pretty  walks,  bunga- 
lows, and  drives,  planted  in  coffee,  tea,  and  cinchona  trees. 
Many  of  the  English  reside  on  these  lofty  terraces,  their 
pretty  homes  looking  down  through  the  jungle  of  vine  and 
bamboo  upon  the  beautiful  lake  that  glistens  like  a  mirror 
hundreds  of  feet  below  them. 

It  being  Sunday  morning,  I  decided  to  attend  the  Episco- 
pal church.  There  was  a  good  congregation,  mostly  Eura- 
sians, made  up  of  families,  sandwiched  with  a  few  of  the 
belles  and  beaux  of  the  city,  all  dressed  in  European  cos- 
tumes. '  I  noticed  many  pretty  faces  among  these  brown 
and  mulatto  girls,  whose  dress  and  behavior  were  faultlessly 
beautiful.  They  engaged  with  the  English  part  of  the  con- 
gregation in  the  service.  They  are  among  the  wealthy  peo- 
ple of  Ceylon,  being  educated  in  English.  The  Portuguese 


408  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


seem  to  have  left  a  more  enduring  monument  of  their  occu- 
pation of  the  island  in  their  intermarriage  with  the  na- 
tives than  they  did  in  their  religion.  After  the  services 
were  closed  I  saw  a  few  of  the  people  walk,  but  many  drove 
away  in  their  bandies  and  dog-carts,  drawn  by  little  ponies, 
to  their  picturesque  homes.  Somebody  at  the  hotel  asked 
if  I  had  heard  the  sermon.  O  yes,  I  replied ;  that  discourse 
seemed  quite  familiar  to  me.  I  heard  it  on  the  "  Kaiser  I. 
Hind,"  sailing  on  the  sea.  The  beautiful  character  and  il- 
lustrious example  of  the  woman  of  Shunem  were  eloquent- 
ly delineated  on  this  occasion. 

Early  Monday  morning  I  was  joined  by  two  English 
gentlemen — Judge  J.  C.  Hughesdon,  of  Madras,  India,  and 
Mr.  Sanders,  of  Kent,  England — who  had  accepted  my  in- 
vitation to  visit  the  Old  Palace,  the  Pavilion,  and  Govern- 
ment Gardens,  to  which  I  had  letters  from  the  executive 
office  at  Colombo.  The  Old  Palace  stands  in  rear  of  the 
temple  we  described.  Much  of  its  royal  splendor  has  long 
since  departed.  I  found  a  few  pictures,  some  furniture,  and 
frescoes  on  the  wall,  in  my  rambles  through  the  audience- 
chambers  and  the  old  dining-hall. 

The  burial-ground  of  the  Hindoos  is  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  street,  where  a  few  tablets  and  old  shrines  remain 
under  the  sacred  bow-tree.  On  an  eminence  near  by  lie  the 
old  kings,  with  a  bow-tree  planted  at  each  grave.  Their 
monuments  are  in  a  condition  of  hopeless  decay. 

Pursuing  our  walk  to  the  city  limits,  we  soon  came  to  a 
large  iron  gate  that  opened  into  a  pretty  park  with  graveled 
walks  and  carriage-drives  that  led  us  to  the  Pavilion.  Know- 
ing the  Governor  was  absent  at  JSTewara  Eliya,  we  did  Hot  send 
in  our  cards.  His  excellency  is  enjoying  his  summer  above 
the  clouds.  The  attendants  showed  us  through  the  palace 
and  over  the  charming  grounds.  We  found  several  cotton- 
trees  with  immense  numbers  of  unopen  bolls  or  black  pods 


Kandy — Tea  and  Cocoa  Culture.  409 

hanging  from  the  limbs.  The  staple  is  very  silky,  but  is 
too  short  to  spin.  Large  quantities  are  gathered  by  the 
natives  and  exported  for  mattresses,  pillows,  etc.  This  cot- 
ton-tree is  indigenous  in  Ceylon,  and  attains  to  enormous 
size.  Judge  Hughesdon  informs  me  he  has  seen  the  same 
tree  growing  in  Southern  India.  Many  pretty  carriage- 
drives  and  walks  radiate  from  the  Pavilion.  A  few  are  pri- 
vate. We  wound  around  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
above  Kandy  by  one  of  these  roads,  from  which  we  beheld 
a  panorama  of  tropical  nature  unequaled  in  the  world. 
Thousands  of  feet  below  us  was  the  city,  nestled  with  its 
little  lake  amid  its  wealth  of  foliage.  Beyond  were  mount- 
ains that  towered  away  in  lofty  grandeur.  We  descended 
by  Lady  Houghton's  walk,  and  after  breakfast  started  in 
our  bandy  to  Peradenya,  or  Government  Botanical  Gar- 
dens. A  dash  of  two  miles  by  a  hard  road  brought  us  in 
front  of  the  entrance.  The  drive  was  perfectly  charming, 
through  a  continuous  village  the  entire  distance.  Some  of 
the  huts  were  covered  with  palm-leaves;  others  built  of 
bamboo  and  mud,  under  a  coat  of  whitewash,  looked  quite 
agreeable.  The  Singhalese  are  fond  of  fruit  and  flowers, 
which  they  gather  about  their  homes  in  profusion;  but 
like  all  the  nations  of  the  Orient,  they  are  slaves  to  super- 
stition and  foolish  traditions. 

Judge  Hughesdon  directed  my  attention  to  the  "spotted 
pot"  in  the  front  yard  of  a  native.  It  resembled  an  in- 
verted coffee-pot  stuck  on  the  end  of  a  pole,  with  spots  of 
white  and  black  all  over  it.  It  is  supposed  you  have  an 
evil  eye,  and  this  device  is  employed  to  divert  it.  The  wife 
or  daughter  might  be  charmingly  beautiful;  you  might 
fancy  his  dog  or  elephant,  or  probably  decoy  a  few  of  his 
"kids"  away,  should  you  chance  to  see  them.  We  saw 
bamboos  along  the  road  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  trees  of 
jack  and  bread-fruit  were  quite  numerous.  All  the  coolie 


410  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

has  to  do  is  to  shake  the  tree,  and  down  comes  his  dinner. 
When  we  had  arrived  in  front  of  the  grand  entrance  to  the 
gardens  we  discovered  a  race-track  opposite,  where  the 
English  enjoy  their  "handicaps."  With  foot-ball,  cricket, 
and  racing  almost  under  the  equator,  our  English  cousins 
must  exert  themselves.  We  sent  in  our  letter  to  Dr.  Henry 
Trimen,  the  director,  who  soon  appeared  and  offered  his 
personal  services.  Here  we  found  the  largest  collection  of 
palms  and  plants  probably  ever  brought  together  and  cul- 
tivated systematically.  They  are  from  every  continent  and 
isle  of  the  sea  that  lie  within  the  torrid  zone.  Here  they 
attain  their  highest  perfection  in  this  humid  clime.  Dr. 
Trimen  led  us  across  the  grass  to  show  the  nutmeg-tree — 
how  the  mace  grows  on  the  inside  of  its.  hull,  unfolding  its 
beauty  as  it  opens,  like  a  flower.  The  Doctor  forgot  to 
have  me  observe  the  necessary  precautions  he  had  taken 
against  the  land-leeches.  In  a  moment  my  feet  and  legs 
were  covered,  unobserved.  I  must  have  cleared  my  boots 
the  first  jump  I  made.  Every  leech  had  fastened  its  bloody 
teeth  into  me,  and  came  near  butchering  me  alive.  When 
the  Doctor  proposed  to  show  some  of  his  fine  trees  and 
plants  again  I  just  stood  off  and  admired  them.  We  came 
.  directly  to  an  immense  ant-hill  in  a  bamboo  group,  that  was 
fast  destroying  it.  We  had  seen  another  larger  mound  of 
these  destructive  insects  the  previous  morning,  near  the 
Pavilion,  about  six  feet  in  height.  They  are  a  very  large 
species  of  white  or  slightly  reddish  ant  that  throw  up  con- 
ical mounds.*  These  must  be  the  genus  that  chased  the  old 
travelers  through  the  jungle  years  ago.  But  they  are  much 
more  civilized  now.  Our  walk  led  us  around  on  the  charm- 
ing banks  of  the  little  river  known  as  Mahawellagunga 
(great  sand  river),  in  which  Peradenya  is  so  lovingly  em- 
braced. I  saw  groups  of  bamboo,  twenty  to  thirty  in  a 
cluster,  forty  feet  high.  Dr.  Trimen  presented  me  a  speci- 

*  These  ants  are  carnivorous  and  omnivorous— the  scavengers  of  the  island. 


Kandy — Tea  and  Cocoa  Culture. 


411 


men  nearly  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  which  I  will  ship 
home.  The  green  and  golden  are  prevailing  colors.  The 
banyan-tree,  or  figus  family,  with  its  corrugated  trunks 
and  roots  growing  a  foot  above  the  ground,  throwing  out 
their  gigantic  arms  fifty  feet,  is  one  of  the  finest  sights  I  ever 
saw.  Here  the  India  rubber-tree  is  growing,  black  pepper, 
vanilla,  allspice,  ginger,  cinchona  (quinine),  cocoa  or  choc- 
olate-tree, cloves,  coffee,  tea,  cinnamon,  etc.  The  rubber- 
tree  is  pierced  for  its  gum,  from  which  the  commercial  arti- 
cle is  obtained.  Black  pepper  grows  in  little  pods  on  a 
climbing  vine,  coffee  and  tea  on  a  bush.  But  the  palm  fam- 
ily just  captured  my  heart. 


FAN-PALM. 


The  fan  and  talipat  palms  are  beauties.  The  traveler's 
palm  is  so  named  because  its  stems  contain  a  cool  drink  of 
water  for  the  thirsty  traveler  "  in  a  dry  land."  The  areeka 
is  the  specimen  that  bears  the  nut  the  natives  use  for  chew- 


412  Around  the  World  in  188 4. 

ing.  I  described  the  habit  in  India.  It  is  used  in  the 
same  way  here.  Large  numbers  of  boys,  and  even  women, 
are  engaged  in  preparing  the  nut  with  tobacco  and  lime, 
wrapped  up  in  leaves,  wrhich  they  sell  about  the  streets  of 
Kandy  and  Colombo.  Probably  the  most  valuable  and 
useful  of  all  is  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  which,  like  the  bamboo 
in  China,  is  manufactured  into  every  conceivable  shape 
and  design.  The  date,  palmyra,  and  kittul  are  the  other 
most  prominent  species.  When  the  talipatis  blooming  it 
presents  a  sublimity  and  beauty  not  equaled  in  the  world. 
It  grows  from  the  seed  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  height,  attain- 
ing to  one  hundred  years  old,  blooms  and  dies. 

Dr.  Trimen  pointed  out  another  grand  object  worthy  of 
admiration.  It  was  a  group  of  old  dead  trees  covered 
with  a  single  vine  that  reminded  me  of  Kenilworth  Castle, 
in  the  west  of  England.  As  I  was  about  to  leave,  the  dis- 
tinguished director  and  scientist  presented  us  with  speci- 
mens of  nutmegs  from  the  tree.  They  are  the  most  curious 
objects  imaginable.  The  outside  hull  of  a  nutmeg  resem- 
bles a  pig-nut.  The  nutmeg  itself  seems  to  be  inclosed  by 
mace.  The  outside  hull  had  burst,  disclosing  the  deep  ver- 
milion of  the  mace,  which  was  remarkably  beautiful. 

It  is  court  week  in  Kandy.  The  proctors,  barristers,  and 
the  native  lawyers  have  been  busy  with  their  cases.  The 
lawyers,  like  the  postmasters,  are  classified  I  presume. 
The  Chief-justice  of  Ceylon  is  paid  twenty-five  thousand 
rupees  per  annum,  solicitors  and  attorneys-general  in  pro- 
portion. At  the  end  of  the  civil  and  military  services  here 
and  in  India — seventeen  to  twenty-one  years,  I  believe — 
every  officer  is  retired  on  a  pension  of  one  thousand  pounds 
a  year  for  life.  The  English  Government  is  very  magnan- 
imous in  this;  but  during  service  she  expects  every  man  to 
^0  his  duty. 

The  cashier  of  the  chartered  Mercantile  Bank  gave  me 


Planting  in  Ceylon.  413 


an  amusing  account  of  the  run  the  natives  made  on  him  in 
Kandy  when  the  Oriental  Bank  tailed.  He  ordered  his 
men  to  pay  out  nothing  but  silver  rupees  (fifty-cent  pieces) 
until  the  panic  subsided.  By  this  method,  in  two  or  three 
days  confidence  was  restored,  and  the  cashier  had  only 
disbursed  a  few  thousand  pounds.  It  required  considerable 
time  to  count  ten  to  fifteen  thousand  dollars  and  check  it 
out. 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

PLANTING  ON  THE  ISLAND  OF  CEYLON  —  ITS  VICISSITUDES 
—  COFFEE,  CINCHONA,  COCOA,  AND  TEA  —  SUGAR  AND 
COTTON. 


history  of  planting  on  the  island  has  met  with  as 
JL  many  vicissitudes  and  assumed  as  many  phases  during 
the  past  thirty  years  as  any  country  in  the  world:  Up  to 
the  year  1869,  when  the  leaf  fungus  first  appeared,  coffee  had 
been  the  speculative  crop  that  filled  every  planter  with 
visions  of  affluence.  "  To  be  a  coffee-planter  was  next  to 
being  a  king."  Money  had  been  advanced  in  the  most 
reckless  manner  by  banks,  they  seeming  as  much  infatu- 
ated with  imaginary  growing  crops,  which  adventurers  had 
promised  on  their  paper,  as  the  speculators  themselves. 

The  following  most  interesting  history  of  the  fragrant 
shrub,  or  coffee-planting,  has  been  contributed  by  a  distin- 
guished gentleman  and  friend  of  the  author's  in  Ceylon, 
and  I  am  sure  it  merits  a  careful  perusal  : 

"  Most  of  the  Europeans  in  Ceylon  are  Scotchmen,  a 
smaller  number  are  English,  and  there  is  a  sprinkling  from 
the  '  Emerald  Isle/  There  are  about  a  score  of  Germans 
and  half  as  many  Frenchmen  in  the  island;  and,  all  told. 
the  European  element,  including  ladies  and  children  (foi 


414  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

many  men  have  their  families  with  them),  exclusive  of  the 
military,  might  now  amount  to  upward  of  four  thousand 
people,  who  enjoy  in  no  small  measure  the  elegancies  and 
comforts  of  '  homely'  life. 

"A  moiety  of  these  inhabit  the  '  mountain  zone/  and  are 
engaged  in  planting,  an  occupation  which  a  few  years  since, 
say  before  the  failure  of  the  '  coffee  enterprise,'  was  so  pop- 
ular that  the  nobility  and  gentry  of  Europe  largely  em- 
barked in  it ;  for  in  those  days  to  be  a  Ceylon  coffee-planter 
'  was  greater  than  a  king,'  or  at  all  events  greater  than  some 
kings. 

"To  say  the  least,  it  was  a  romantic  and  almost  princely 
life  these  planter  gentry  led  between  the  years  1861  and 
1881 ;  for  although  the  coffee-trees  began  to  fail  rapidly  in 
1879,  nevertheless  people's  faith  in  the  permanency  of  the 
industry  was  not  appreciably  shaken  until  some  years  later, 
by  which  time  it  became  very  apparent  that  the  enterprise 
was  doomed,  and  that  nearly  half  a  million  acres  of  worn- 
out  coffee  land  must  be  abandoned,  or  at  best  devoted  to 
the  cultivation  of  other  •  products.  This,  however,  was  a 
case  where  the  old  saw, 

It  is  best  to  be  off  with  the  old  love 
Before  you  are  on  with  the  new, 

would  not  apply ;  and  lucky  were  they  who  were  able,  while 
yet  a  remnant  of  their  coffee  remained,  to  embrace  some  one 
or  more  of  the  new  loves — namely :  cinchona,  cocoa,  and  tea 
• — just  coming  into  notice. 

"  Fortunately,  it  now  appeared  that  the  last-named  prod- 
ucts would  flourish  on  land  unfit  for  coffee.  Accordingly 
they  who  had  the  means  and  will  for  adopting  this  dernier 
ressort  did  so,  and,  such  is  the  generosity  of  kind  nature  in 
this  favored  land,  they  were  in  a  few  years  rewarded  by  see- 
ing their  nearly  devastated  properties  donning  new  robes  of 
prosperity  and  yielding  fresh  wealth  from  these  novel  sources. 


Planting  in  Ceylon.  415 

"  Many,  however,  had  n't  the  funds,  nor  the  faith  or  per- 
severance, to  adopt  new  methods,  and  so  'threw  up  the 
sponge.'  It  had  been  *  easy  come,  easy  go,'  with  them  from 
the  first.  They  had  *  had  their  cake,  and  eaten  it  too,'  and 
more  than  eaten  it  by  'outrunning  the  constable.'  Coffee-, 
planting  had  attained  to  so  high  a  reputation  that  its  vota- 
ries could  get  almost  unlimited  accommodation  wherever 
credit  was  given  or  money  loaned ;  and  the  principal  bank 
in  the  island  was  even  more  deeply  infatuated  than  almost 
anybody  else.  It  therefore  advanced  funds  so  recklessly 
against  semi-imaginary  'growing  crops  that  the  speculative 
and  improvident  easily  got  possession  of  more  money  than 
they  knew  how  to  use  properly,  and  spent  it  recklessly.  The 
result  of  this  mad  profusion  and  consequent  demoraliza- 
tion was  the  unfitting  of  the  spendthrifts,  at  least  pro  tern., 
for  any  ordinary  matter-of-fact  pursuits,  and  so  many  of 
them,  seeking  'fresh  fields  and  pastures  new/  abandoned 
their  creditors,  and  the  island  too.  Some  others,  highly  de- 
serving of  a  better  fate,  also  got  discouraged  and  went  away, 
either  to  old  homes  or  new,  carrying  away  from  Ceylon  little 
else  than  the  fervent  wishes  of  friends  for  future  prosperity. 

"  In  the  meantime  the  bank,  having  advanced  large  sums 
to  the  planters,  could  neither  get  the  money  back  nor  in 
many  cases  the  interest  accruing;  but,  believing  that  the 
embarrassments  and  short  crops  were  due  to  unfavorable 
seasons,  wholly  abnormal,  and  that  succeeding  years  would 
prove  more  auspicious,  it  felt  constrained  to  increase  its  ad- 
vances. Thus  '  good  money  was  thrown  after  bad,'  in  the 
hope  that  eventually  a  'bumper  crop' — say  a  million  hun- 
dred-weights or  more — would  bq  the  result,  and  thus  lead  to 
the  recovery  of  at  least  a  greater  part  of  their  arrears.  The 
hope  and  the  effort  were  in  vain,  however,  and  the  bank  col- 
lapsed, with  a  multitude  of  poor  assets,  consisting  mostly  of 
impoverished  coffee  properties. 


416  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

"As  a  matter  of  fact,  many  of  the  so-called  coffee  estates 
were  deceptions — mere  imitation  properties,  only  fit  to  de- 
lude the  unwary  money-lender  or  entrap  the  verdant  buyer. 
They  had  been  got  up  at  the  expense  of  sacrificing  many 
thousand  acres  of  valuable  forest,  which  cannot  be  replaced 
in  centuries.  This  is  a  great  misfortune,  for  these  primeval 
growths  answered  the  double  purpose  of  drawing  rain  from 
the  clouds  and  holding  it  in  conservancy — conditions  of  par- 
amount importance  to  a  tropical  country,  and  whose  grow- 
ing absence  in  Ceylon  is  even  now,  perhap?,  fruitful  pf 
many  agricultural  disorders.  Under  any  circumstances  the 
result  of  this  spoliation  is  pitiable,  for  it  occurred  in  one  of 
the  most  delightful  regions  of  the  world,  well  suited  to  Eu- 
ropean residence,  and  the  land  so  desolated — capable  of 
sustaining  a  magnificent  forest  growth — was  susceptible,  no 
doubt,  of  profitable  agriculture  under  a  different  style  of 
cultivation.  All  of  this  now  melancholy  waste  lies  between 
the  altitudes  of  fifteen  hundred  and  five  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea,  where  the  temperature  the  year  round  is  about 
analogous  to  that  of  New  England  in  summer.  Fruits  and 
vegetables  of  almost  every  sort  can  be  grown  in  it,  and  a 
truly  paternal  and  fostering  Government  has  so  tapped  it 
with  raihvays  and  covered  it  with  carriage-roads  that  locc- 
motion  into  its  remotest  parts  almost  is  not  only  convenient 
but  pleasurable. 

"Many  people  living  in  the  low  country  bordering  on  the 
sea,  where  the  climate  is  torrid,  often  seek  relief  and  com- 
fort by  going  into  the  planting  districts ;  and  every  day  in 
the  year  witnesses  parties  of  pleasure-seekers,  in  gay  caval- 
cades, on  mail-coaches,  and,  not  unfrequently  in  their  own 
equipages,  journeying  among  the  hills,  meeting  in  the  wild- 
est places  here  and  there  hedge-rows  of  roses,  oleanders, 
and  perfumed  grasses,  besides  numerous  other  blossoming 
umbragia  freely  growing  by  the  way-side. 


Planting  in  Ceylon.  417 


"  Comfortable  hostelries,  established  by  Government,  called 
'  rest  houses/  located  along  the  roads  within  easy  stages,  also 
afforded  shelter,  rest,  and  refreshment  for  travelers ;  and  he 
or  she  who  wrould  find  fault  with  either  the  accommodation 
or  fare  to  be  got  at  many  of  them  would  certainly  be  diffi- 
cult to  please. 

"  Kandy,  that  quaint  and  delightful  amphitheatrical  city 
(the  whilom  capital  of  the  native  kingdom,  which  remained 
independent  until  long  after  almost  every  sovereignty  of 
what  is  now  British  India  submitted  to  English  domina- 
tion), being  easily  accessible,  forms  a  sort  of  mountain  me- 
tropolis, where,  in  a  beautiful  mansion  called  the  Pavilion, 
surrounded  by  a  noble  park  and  exquisite  flower-garden, 
and  looking  out  upon  the  fruitful  and  lovely  Dumbera  val- 
ley, the  Governor  usually  resides  for  a  considerable  portion 
of  the  year;  and  'Nuwara  Eliya'  (City  of  Light),  a  sanita- 
rium six  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  affords  a  fashionable 
rendezvous,  where  people  of  means  largely  resort  for  health 
and  sport,  enthusiastically  engaging  in  those  games  and 
pastimes — namely,  cricket,  foot-ball,  lawn  tennis,  horse-racing 
and  elk-hunting,  et  hoc  genus  omne — dear  to  the  English  peo- 

.  pie- 

"During  the  interval  between  the  'Nuwara  Eliya5  and 
'Colombo'  seasons  large  parties  of  fashionables,  consisting 
sometimes  of  the  highest  local  officials,  from  the  Governor 
and  his  family  downward,  and  private  notables,  are  fre- 
quently entertained  with  •  princely  hospitality  at  the  neat 
and  cosy  bungalows  of  prominent  planters.  And  formerly, 
when  coffee  was  king,  its  reputedly  successful  attaches  were 
often  to  be  met  traveling  about  the  world  so  ostentatiously 
that  people  who  encountered  them,  though  their  own  condi- 
tions in  life  might  be  very  comfortable,  were  nevertheless 
rendered  quite  dissatisfied  with  their  lot,  and  made  to  de- 
plore their  not  being  Ceylon  coffee-planters.  Those  not 
27 


418  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

traveling  abroad  usually  spent  the  Colombo  fashionable  sea- 
son in  that  beautiful  maritime  town,  where  an  enlarged 
edition  of  'Nuwara  Eliya'  dissipation  would  be  indulged 
in,  including  not  a  little  gambling  at  the  club  and  their 
friends'  houses. 

"  In  this  connection  a  story  is  told  of  an  up-country  gentle- 
man— with  a  bank  account  already  too  largely  overdrawn 
— who  paid  his  losses  one  evening  with  a  check  drawn  in 
favor  of  'manure  account  ....  estate'  to  the  tune  of 
some  thousands  of  rupees.  No  doubt  the  estate  would  have 
needed  manure  bad  enough,  and  probably  such  a  plea  for 
the  check  was  the  most  likely  way  of  getting  it  honored, 
for  the  bank  officials  at  last  began  to  realize  that  only  heavy 
fertilizing  would  secure  the  'bumper  crops'  they  looked 
forward  to  so  anxiously  for  a  return  of  their  outlying  capi- 
tal. About  this  period,  therefore,  strenuous  efforts  were 
made  for  manuring  coffee  properties;  but  in  many  cases 
such  improper  substances — principally  oil-cakes — were  used 
that  the  soil  was  rather  poisoned  than  otherwise;  so  that 
what  with  poor  land  and  a  slipshod  mode  of  planting  in 
the  beginning,  disforesting  with  its  evil  consequences,  and 
the  use  of  poisonous  manure,  destruction  was  surely  engen- 
dered. Moreover,  when  the  coffee-trees  began  to  die  there 
tastened  upon  them,  probably  as  a  result  of  decay,  a  fun- 
gus which  was  dignified  with  the  name  Hemeilia  vertutrix, 
and  to  this  highly-dubbed  misnomer  was  given  the  credit  (?) 
of  all  the  evils  coffee  suffered  from.  This  led  to  an  inunda- 
tion of  the  island  by  quacks  and  enthusiasts  (claiming  an 
ability  to  cure  this  disease  with  the  high-sounding  name), 
by  whose  advice  new  empiricisms  were  inflicted  upon  the 
unfortunate  shrub  until  it  was  almost  a  wonder  that  a  sin- 
gle sound  coffee-tree  was  left  standing  outside  of  the  Gov- 
ernment Botanical  Gardens,  where,  luckily,  the  fallacy  of 
trying  to  restore  the  efficacy  of  a  worn-out  plant  by  ridding 


Pliuif'rng  in  Ceylon.  419 


it  of  a  natural  symptom  of  decay  was  clearly  understood 
by  a  capable  director  of  the  institution,  and  by  him  pub- 
lished pro  bono  publico.  Dr.  Trimen's  unpalatable  fiat 
could  not  be  ignored,  and  a  general  acquiescence  in  it,  and 
the  adoption  of  wholesome  modes  of  cultivation  in  lieu  of 
doubtful  experiments,  resulted  in  the  saving  of  perhaps  two 
hundred  thousand  acres  of  good  coffee,  still  in  bearing,  and 
capable  of  producing  about  four  hundred  thousand  hundred- 
weights of  the  fragrant  berry  per  annum ;  whereas  the  crop 
in  1877,  when  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  million  acres  were 
in  cultivation,  was  about  a  million  hundred- weights,  worth 
five  million  dollars. 

"  In  the  foregoing  use  of  the  past  tense  it  is  not  the  writer's 
intention  to  intimate  that  the  practical  failure  of  the  coffee 
enterprise  and  collapse  of  the  Oriental  Bank  (circumstances 
serious  enough  in  their  effects  to  be  sure)  caused  a  cessation 
of  the  charming  modes  of  life  among  planters;  for  hap- 
pily the  historian  is  not  called  upon  to  record  so  unfortu- 
nate a  termination,  but  may  rather  add  that  the  allure- 
ments of  this  lovely  clime  and  prospect  of  renewed  pros- 
perity from  growing  new  products,  stimulated  ^many  to 
persevere  in  the  planting  enterprise,  and  their  success  is 
such  that  the  late  flourishing  condition  has  escaped  the  total 
reversal  once  thought  to  be  threatening  it,  and  has  only 
been  sensibly  modified ;  and  it  may  be  possible,  in  the  not 
far  distant  future,  for  Ceylon  to  enjoy  a  more  solid  pros- 
perity than  it  has  known  in  the  past,  and  for  '  globe-trot- 
ters' again  to  meet  in  far-off  lands,  traveling  in  search  of 
pleasure  or  in  the  pursuit  of  science,  with  all  the  evidences 
of  wealth  about  them  as  of  yore — planters  in  Ceylon  who 
after  exhausting  coffee,  found  another  bonanza  in  tea,  cocoa, 
or  cinchona." 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  May  I  started  alone  by 
railway  to  Gambola  Station,  ten  miles  distant,  around  lofty 


420  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

mountains  down  a  charming  valley  of  terraced  rice-fields, 
to  visit  the  Mariawatte  tea  estate,  the  most  celebrated  in 
Ceylon.  This  whole  region  around  Gambola  looked  like  it 
had  been  dropped  out  of  heaven,  it  was  so  beautiful.  The 
tea-farms  on  the  high  lands  and  paddy-fields  in  the  valleys 
stretched  for  miles  away  in  picturesque  beauty  to  the  foot- 
hills of  blue  ethereal  mountains.  Mariawatte,  with  its  six 
hundred  acres  of  tea-shrubs,  lay  about  a  mile  distant  in 
full  view  of  the  station.  A  short  walk  led  me  through  the 
farm,  where  one  hundred  and  fifty  Tamil  coolies,  men  and 
women,  as  black  as  ebony,  were  picking  the  new  leaves  from 
the  bushes.  Each  coolie  had  a  little  bamboo  basket,  into 
which  the  tender  young  leaves  were  dropped.  Not  finding 
the  manager  at  his  bungalow,  I  hurried  down  to  the  curing 
house,  or  factory,  where  I  met  a  well-educated  young  man 
weighing  the  "pickings."  He  informed  me  his  name  was 
H.  L.  Ingles,  the  manager.  I  replied  I  was  a  "G.  T."  from 
America,  and  when  he  was  at  leisure  I  would  like  to  use 
my  gimlet  on  him.  "  You  are  a  newspaper  man,  ain't  you  ?  " 
Perhaps !  "  Very  few  Americans  ever  come  this  way.  One 
minute,  *if  you  please."  I  was  rejoiced  when  he  changed 
from  the  Tamil  to  the  English  tongue.  Here  are  two  words 
of  that  outlandish  brogue:  "Pullenayagane"  and  "Muttu- 
kistua."  Excuse  me.  Tell  me  about  tea-planting.  We 
think  we  can  grow  the  shrub  in  my  country — the  State  of 
Georgia — where  some  efforts  have  been  made;  but  our  peo- 
ple do  not  understand  the  method  of  cultivation  or  curing 
sufficiently,  it  seems,  to  make  it  a  complete  success. 

"  Well,  sir,  Mariawatte  has  about  six  hundred  acres — four 
hundred  planted  out,  as  you  see,  and  one  hundred  acres  in 
full  bearing.  I  am  preparing  another  hundred,  which  I 
shall  be  pleased  to  show  you  directly.  We  get  our  seed 
from  India — "Assam  hybrid"  —  plant  in  beds  and  then 
transplant  in  rows,  four  by  four  feet,  which  requires  three 


Planting  in  Ceylon.  421 


thousand  plants  to  the  acre.  Little  cultivation,  except 
weeding  with  the  hoe,  is  required  after  the  first  year.  In 
two  or  three  years,  or  earlier,  the  picking  begins.  Only 
new  shoots  or  leaves  are  gathered  every  nine  days.  The 
bush  remains  an  evergreen  the  year  round.  At  eighteen 
months  after  planting  we  begin  to  prune.  We  keep  the 
bush  cut  back  to  twenty-two  to  twenty-four  inches,  the  most 
convenient  height  for  picking.  A  coolie  picks  about  fifteen 
pounds  a  day  of  the  young  green  leaves,  sometimes  a  hand- 
ful from  one  bush,  for  which  we  pay  him  a  little  less  than 
one-fourth  of  a  rupee  a  day  (about  ten  cents  of  American 
money).  The  coolie  works  from  6  A.M.  to  4  P.M.  without 
stopping.  A  few  have  a  little  rice  to  eat  at  one  o'clock, 
which  they  find  themselves.  Fresh  ground,  or  new  ground, 
is  preferred  for  original  plantings;  cost  fifteen  to  twenty- 
five  dollars ;  with  clearing  and  planting,  probably  fifty  dol- 
lars per  acre." 

The  coolies  are  coming  with  their  pickings  to  be  weighed 
every  hour  or  two  through  the  day.  Each  one  receives  a 
check,  and  is  paid  every  week  or  month.  The  manager 
furnishes  rice  at  a  stipulated  price  throughout  the  year,  and 
lodgings  free. 

From  the  weighing-house  the  tea-leaves  are  carried  in  bulk 
to  the  withering-house  and  spread  on  trays.  In  twelve  to 
fifteen  hours  they  become  malleable — soft  as  a  kid  glove. 
They  are  now  taken  to  tables  and  rolled  until  the  cells  are 
broken  and  the  twist  is  given.  The  next  process  is  to  place 
them  in  trays,  or  cases,  until  fermentation  takes  place,  which 
is  known  by  the  leaves  assuming  a  bright  copper-color.  The 
tea  is  now  ready  for  firing.  The  old  or  China  method  is  by 
kettles.  The  new  method  adopted  by  Mr.  Ingles  is  by  a 
machine  called  the  sirocco.  It  is  the  best  yet  discovered. 
The  trays  are  placed  one  above  another,  like  they  are  done 
in  the  Georgia  patent  fruit-drier.  The  treatment  then  is 


422  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


by  currents  of  hot  air,  which  cures  the  leaves  in  fifteen  to 
eighteen  minutes — one  hour  or  more  by  the  kettles.  Taken 
out  of  the  machine  and  emptied  again  on  large  tables,  it 
breaks  up  into  fine  particles,  or  pieces,  retaining  the  twist. 
Different  numbers  of  sieves  (wire)  are  then  used  for  classi- 
fying it,  number  twelve  giving  the  finest  quality.  Before 
packing  in  boxes  it  is  re-fired  and  poured  in  hot.  The 
box,  made  out  of  the  jack-tree  boards,  is  lined  with  tin-foil, 
nailed  up,  marked  with  its  class,  and  shipped  to  Mincing 
Lane,  London.  Broken  Pekoe,  Pekoe,  and  Pekoe  Souchong 
are  Mr.  Ingles's  brands.  The  actual  cost  of  production  and 
curing  here  is  nine  pence,  or  eighteen  cents,  per  pound.  It 
brings  readily  one  shilling  and  three  pence  to  one  shilling 
and  eleven  pence,  equal  to  thirty-one  cents  and  forty-seven 
cents  per  pound.  Three  or  four  hundred  pounds  per  acre 
may  be  considered  a  fair  yield  on  this  estate.  As  high  as 
seven  hundred  pounds  have  been  made  in  Ceylon — a  most 
profitable  crop.  This  Ceylon  tea  is  coming  more  into  favor 
every  day  in  England.  Mr.  Ingles  presented  the  author 
several  very  fine  samples,  equal,  it  is  thought,  to  the  best 
China. 

I  found  Mr.  Ingles  building  a  new  house,  and  he  being  a 
bachelor,  it  looked  quite  suspicious.  The  bill  of  lumber  was 
sawed  out  on  the  spot.  The  jack-tree  was  cut  into  logs, 
faced  and  lined.  Two  men  with  a  cross-cut  saw,  one  stand- 
ing on  top  and  the  other  below  the  log,  elevated,  were  un- 
der a  full  head  of  steam  when  I  left.  This  is  the  best  port- 
able saw-mill  in  Ceylon — capacity,  one  to  two  hundred  feet 
per  day.  Both  coffee  and  cocoa,  to  a  limited  extent,  are 
growing  on  this  estate. 

Returning,  I  passed  a  long  row  of  brick  tenement-houses, 
where  I  found  the  Tamils  on  a  dirt  floor,  packed  in  little 
rooms  eight  by  ten,  with  a  peck  of  rice  a  week.  When 
rice  advances  the  planter  loses,  when  it  declines  he  makes  a 


Planting  in  Ceylon.  423 


profit.  It  is  always  sold  at  a  stipulated  price.  With  their 
curry  and  vegetables,  these  coolies  are  as  happy  as  our 
Georgia  freedmen  would  be  in  the  Governor's  mansion.  If 
I  had  time  I  would  ascend  from  Gambola  to  Nuwara  Eliya, 
six  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  and  two  thousand  feet  above 
Gambola. 

As  we  approached  Kandy  on  our  return  we  saw  a  mount- 
ain where  "devil-worship"  among  the  Buddhists  was  once 
practiced.  At  these  midnight  orgies  beautiful  girls  are  said 
to  have  been  sacrificed  to  appease  the  wrath  of  the  devil 
for  the  coming  year.  The  victims  were  bound  to  a  stake 
with  their  hands  and  feet  tied,  around  which  the  devil- 
priests  reveled  in  their  demoniacal  lamentations.  An  inci- 
dent is  related  to  prove  the  efficacy  and  power  of  prayer 
from  a  believer  in  Jesus.  A  young  girl  whom  they  had 
thus  abandoned  prayed  that  she  might  be  saved.  On  re- 
turning the  following  morning  and  finding  her  alive  they 
became  frightened,  and  on  hearing  her  story  forever  discon- 
tinued the  sacrifice.  But  from  all  I  can  learn  there  are 
devil-worshipers  here  yet.  They  believe  he  is  the  cause  of 
all  their  sickness.  They  have  even  got  a  devil-priest  who 
gets  up  his  band  of  music,  the  tom-tom  (little  drum),  and 
puts  on  a  mask — a  frightful  scarecrow — that  is  enough  to 

scare  the out  of  his  wits.  This  sainted  man  dances  all 

night  with  his  throng  of  dervishes,  praying  to  his  satanic 
majesty  to  release  the  poor  sick  man.  He  says  lots  of  fun- 
ny things  to  make  the  people  laugh,  and  in  the  morning 
the  priest  takes  a  picture  of  the  dead  man  out  of  the  house, 
which  he  tries  to  make  the  devil  believe  is  the  real  man, 
and  believing  disappears. 

My  English  friends  joined  me  the  following  morning  in 
a  drive  to  the  Pally  Kelly  estate,  some  nine  miles  distant. 
The  Government  has  built  the  finest  public  roads  to  reach 
all  parts  of  Ceylon,  and  this  one,  I  must  confess,  was  ex- 


424  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ceptionally  good.  We  saw  on  the  way  many  cotton-trees, 
school-houses,  and  churches,  native  huts,  buffalo  cows,  and 
elephants.  This  species  of  cattle  I  expect  to  find  around 
the  world  has  a  thick  hide  like  a  rhinoceros,  often  with  no 
hair  whatever  to  hide  its  ugliness ;  it  wallows  in  the  mud 
like  a  hog.  I  saw  one  indulging  in  a  bath  in  a  river  down 
which  we  rode  for  miles.  The  elephant  stood  near  the  gar- 
den of  a  native,  perfectly  gentle.  This  noble  animal  has 
been  so  much  hunted  during  past  years  for  its  tusks,  and 
recklessly  slaughtered,  the  Government  of  Ceylon  was  com- 
pelled to  impose  a  heavy  fine  on  all  hunters  killing  them.* 
Crossing  the  river,  we  entered  the  finest  cocoa  estate  on  the 
island — six  hundred  acres  in  bearing.  There  was  consid- 
erable Liberian  coffee  growing,  bearing  a  good  crop.  Cocoa- 
nuts,  vanilla,  and  black  pepper  were  among  the  interesting 
objects  noticed.  Mr.  Waller  welcomed  us  to  his  charming 
bungalow,  and  served  each  of  us  with  a  refreshing  glass  of 
cocoa-nut  milk.  Here  we  found  most  elegant  drawing- 
rooms,  with  charming  books  and  pictures.  There  was  ev- 
ery evidence  of  the  highest  culture  and  enjoyment  about 
this  lovely  home.  We  did  not  meet  Mr.  Waller's  wife,  but 
I  saw  her  taste  and  refinement  dominant  everywhere.  Front 
its  commanding  position  a  charming  picture  of  loveliness 
was  presented  in  the  natural  beauty  of  the  landscape.  The 
entire  slopes  of  the  hills  and  valleys  below  glowed  with  the 
wealth  of  the  chocolate-tree.  This  tree  bears  a  pod  in 
which  the  beans  are  inclosed.  They  bear  at  five  to  six 
years  old,  fifty  pods  to  the  tree,  with  three  hundred  trees  to 
the  acre,  averaging  six  to  seven  hundred  pounds  of  beans. 
This  will  pay  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  net  per  acre. 
Like  tea,  chocolate  or  cocoa  trees  grow  best  between  five 
and  fifteen  degrees  of  latitude.  Spain  is  the  largest  con- 
sumer of  this  aromatic  drink,  and  it  is  esteemed  the  great- 
est misfortune  for  the  poorest  peasant  not  to  be  able  to  drink 

*The  Government  of  Ceylon  derives  a  large  revenue  from  the  sale  of  ele- 
phants. Tame  elephants  are  driven  with  wild  ones  as  a  decoy  into  krawls 
(corrals),  when  they  are  captured.  At  the  celebrated  elephant-krawl  of  La- 
bugama  four  hundred  natives  were  employed  in  driving  fifteen  large  ele- 
phants in  to  entertain  the  Prince  of  Wales's  two  sons  during  their  ugit  sev- 
eral years  ago. 


Planting  in  Ceylon.  425 

it  in  that  country.  We  saw  large  quantities  of  coffee-ber- 
ries being  sunned  and  stirred  by  the  coolie,  while  passing 
through  Mr.  Waller's  village.  The  school-master  ran  out 
to  present  me  the  Tamil  alphabet  he  had  cut  on  palmetto- 
leaves  during  my  absence  at  the  bungalow  in  acknowledg- 
ment of  a  small  contribution  I  made  to  purchase  the  chil- 
dren Sunday-school  books.  He  informed  me  Mr.  Waller 
paid  all  expenses  of  the  school  for  his  tenantry,  and  was  a 
very  good  man.  The  teacher  showed  me  how  he  taught 
the  Tamil  children  to  make  figures  and  write  in  sand.  He 
remarked  that  small  children  in  this  way  were  enabled  to 
'hold  a  stick  to  begin  forming  characters  with  while  they 
could  not  hold  a  pen. 

Returning  to  Colombo,  Sir  John  and  other  friends  gladly 
welcomed  me.  Mr.  Palmer,  my  room-mate,  had  missed  me 
for  some  days,  he  said,  and  had  been  keeping  bachelor's 
hall.  Sir  John  had  been  engaged  in  answering  correspond- 
ents, reading,  and  driving.  Mr.  Reese  and  family,  with  Mr. 
Palmer,  were  on  the  eve  of  their  departure  to  Melbourne, 
Australia.  Mr.  E.  E.  Carleton,  of  New  York,  with  whom 
we  had  passed  many  happy  hours  on  the  "  Kaiser  I.  Hind," 
a  young  man  of  the  most  generous  impulses  and  exalted 
character,  had  already  sailed.  I  never  could  forget  his  dis- 
interested friendship  for  me  and  many  acts  of  uniform  kind- 
ness. Others  of  our  passengers  had  left  for  Europe,  and 
our  steamer,  the  "Hydaspes,"  was  reported  in  sight  for  China. 
Here  we  were  parting  never  to  meet  again,  our  paths  di- 
verging to  every  part  of  the  globe.  In  two  or  three  days 
we  should  be  gone. 

Since  Mr.  Palmer's  departure  the  black  crows  have  been 
my  companions.  The  pesky  birds  steal  my  bread  and  butter 
every  morning  near  my  window.  I  have  rather  tempted 
them  to  these  unlawful  indulgences  by  some  encouragement 
given  they  were  not  slow  to  take  advantage  of.  T  amused 


426  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

myself  by  throwing  out  crumbs  of  bread  to  see  them  scuffle 
over  it  before  reaching  the  open  court  below.  They  would 
hardly  ever  fail  to  overtake  the  prize.  This  is  the  same 
species  of  black  crow  we  have  in  Georgia.  He  is  fussing, 
cawing,  and  into  everybody's  business.  I  have  been  tempt- 
ed to  destroy  one  of  these  pirates  before  leaving  Colombo. 
They  have  a  fish  here  that  climbs  a  tree,  another  that  hides 
in  the  mud,  and  a  lizard  three  feet  long.  The  shank  (a 
live  shell  fish),  the  seer,  shark,  talipot,  sardines,  and  bonitoes 
are  most  commonly  seen. 

Colombo  is  the  center  of  the  great  pearl  fisheries  in  the 
Indian  Ocean.  The  pearl  is  found  in  a  very  large  species 
of  oyster,  in  great  depths  of  the  sea.  The  tortoise  shells  are 
worth  thirty  to  forty  dollars  each,  and  when  manufactured 
into  paper-cutters,  combs,  work-boxes,  and  pretty  ornaments, 
bring  fabulous  prices.  The  natives  are  experts  at  boating 
and  fishing,  employing  many  ingenious  devices  for  ensnar- 
ing or  catching  fish.  They  drive  them  into  bamboo  pens 
and  suspend  large  baggy  nets  in  the  water,  and  draw  the 
fish  over  them  by  feeding  them.  There  is  a  little  boat  in 
the  harbor  I  have  not  seen  elsewhere.  It  has  a  long,  nar- 
row body,  and  sits  high  out  of  the  water.  There  are  two 
poles,  projecting  at  right  angles  from  each  end,  on  one  side 
about  ten  feet  long  The  poles  curve  downward,  the  ends 
being  fastened  to  a  small  log  that  floats  on  the  water.  This 
ingenious  contrivance  prevents  upsetting. 

Both  cotton  and  sugar-cane  are  little  cultivated  on  the 
island.  In  Jaffna  the  natives  spin  and  weave  cotton  cloth 
on  looms  over  two  hundred  years  old. 


Christian  Progress  in  Ceylon.  427 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

CHRISTIAN  PROGRESS  AND  THE  AMERICAN  MISSION  IN 
CEYLON. 

'"PHE  progress  of  Christianity  in  Ceylon  has  not  been  so 
JL  great  as  its  friends  could  wish ;  nevertheless,  consider- 
ing that  it  is  called  upon  to  displace  the  mild  philosophy  of 
Buddha,  coupled  with  the  gross  superstitions  of  Hindoo- 
ism  so  dear  to  the  hearts  of  the  ignorant  and  weak-minded, 
much  has  been  accomplished;  and  a  majority  of  the  con- 
verts have  probably  been  as  sincere  and  consistent  believers 
in  our  Saviour  as  would  be  found  among  a  like  number  of 
average  professing  Christians  in  most  Western  countries. 

Among  the  several  establishments  devoted  to  this  work 
is  the  American  Congregation alist  Mission  at  Bettacotta, 
with  a  following  of  some  three  thousand  people.  It  was 
established  about  1816,  and  bears  a  high  reputation,  espe- 
cially in  respect  to  educational  affairs.  Its  first  represent- 
atives— Messrs.  Poor,  Scudder,  and  Saunders — were,  it  seems, 
on  arrival  arrested  as  spies  by  the  British  Colonial  Gov- 
ernment, but  afterward  released;  whereupon  they  selected 
the  Northern  Peninsula  as  a  field  of  labor,  and  located 
their  establishment  near  the  neighborhood  of  the  most 
wretched  and  unfortunate  people  on  earth.  Here,  appar- 
ently, their  success  has  been  fully  commensurate  with  their 
means;  for  public  report  gives  the  American  Mission  at 
Bettacotta  a  high  record.  Among  many  interesting  cir- 
cumstances connected  with  the  mission,  especially  of  this 
period,  is  the  fact  that  more  than  one  of  the  college  grad- 
uates bear  the  name  of  Cleveland,  in  consequence  of  a 
custom  there  of  calling  pupils  who  have  embraced  Chris- 
tianity after  the  charitable  people,  mostly  Americans,  who 
have  undertaken  to  defray  the  cost  of  their  education. 


428  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


Thus,  to  the  writer's  knowledge,  the  family  name  of  our  be- 
loved President  is  borne  by  two  estimable  professional  native 
gentlemen,  a  doctor  and  a  lawyer,  both  of  whom  graduated 
from  the  Bettacotta  College;  and  the  establishment  still  re- 
joices in  the  presence  of  very  near  relatives  of  our  present 
Chief  Magistrate  in  the  persons  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hastings 
(principal)  and  his  wife,  the  latter  being  an  own  sister  to 
President  Cleveland. 

In  conversation  with  Jaffna  Tamil  people — who,  by  the 
way,  were  mostly  educated  by  the  Americans,  and  are  to  be 
found  occupying  responsible  and  lucrative  positions  in  the 
busiest  towns  of  the  island — one  hears  mentioned  with  re- 
spect and  eulogy  the  names  of  perhaps  a  score  of  gentlemen 
who  in  the  past,  when  connected  with  this  mission,  earned 
the  admiration  of  all  who  knew  them  by  their  consistent 
and  devoted  labor;  and  that  the  institution  still  preserves 
its  prestige  is  evinced  by  the  interesting  fact  that  in  August 
last,  when  Governor  Gordon  was  on  his  northern  tour,  he 
visited  the  establishment  of  Bettacotta  and  was  so  pleased 
with  it  that  he  left  behind  a  personal  donation  of  1,000  Rs., 
and  always  has  much  to  say  in  praise  of  the  mission.  The 
other  Protestant  missions  in  the  island,  to  mention  them  in  the 
order  of  their  establishment,  are :  The  Baptist,  commenced 
in  1812;  Wesleyau,  commenced  in  1814;  Church  Mission, 
commenced  in  1818.  All  of  these  are  in  a  highly  prosper- 
ous condition,  and  number  among  them  about  fifty-eight 
thousand  followers;  whereas  the  Roman  Catholic  propa- 
ganda, established  by  the  Portuguese  in  1544,  has  over  two 
hundred  and  ten  thousand  adherents.  According  to  the 
last  census,  taken  in  1884,  the  whole  population  of  the 
island  was  two  million  seven  hundred  and  fifty-nine  thou- 
sand seven  hundred  and  sixty-one,  or  very  near  three  million, 
divided  into  the  following  religious  sects,  viz.  Buddhists, 
1,698,070;  Hindoos,  593,630;  Mohammedans,  197,775; 


Christian  Progress  in  Ceylon.  429 

Catholics,  210,000;  Protestants,  58,000 ;  promiscuous,  2,286; 
total,  2,759,761 ;  and  the  proportion  of  males  to  the  whole 
was  about  fifty-six  and  two-thirds,  or  very  nearly  fifty-seven 
per  cent.  The  Wesleyan  Methodists  and  Episcopals  are 
nearly  equally  divided,  the  Presbyterians  number  thirteen 
thousand,  and  Baptists  five  thousand,  that  make  up  the  total 
number  of  Protestants.  The  Singhalese  furnish  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty-two  thousand  two  hundred  and  seventy,  or 
three-fourths  of  the  whole  of  the  native  Christians.  I  find 
but  three  Moormen  and  thirty-two  Malay  Christians  on  the 
whole  island.  This  results,  I  think,  from  the  deadly  an- 
tagonism that  exists  between  the  Moslem  religion  and  Chris- 
tianity. 

The  recent  census  shows  a  very  singular  coincidence  in  re- 
lation to  crime.  The  proportion  of  the  entire  population  of 
Ceylon  who  can  read  and  write  is  but  15.7  per  cent.,  while 
the  per  cent,  of  prison  population  so  educated  is  34  per 
cent.  The  greatest  per  cent,  of  crime  exists  among  the  ed- 
ucated Malays. 

The  entire  number  of  Christian  converts  in  India  and 
Ceylon  approximates  two  million,  including  Burmah  and 
Siam.  The  disproportion  is  largely  in  favor  of  the  Cath- 
olics, who  have  been  working  here  about  three  hundred 
years,  while  the  Protestants  have  worked  hardly  one-fourth 
of  that  time.  In  the  last  decade  the  Christian  population 
doubled  in  India,  while  the  working  force  in  the  zenanas 
and  churches  increased  in  proportion.  Since  1840  in  Cey- 
lon the  stations  rose  from  forty  to  one  hundred  and  fifteen,, 
and  the  native  helpers  increased  from  eight  to  ninety-nine. 
The  foreign  agents  remained  about  the  same. 

In  my  farewell  to  Colombo  I  wish  to  express  my  profound 
obligations  and  sense  of  gratified  appreciation  of  the  kindness 
and  valuable  information  I  received  from  our  popular  and 
most  efficient  Consul,  Hon.  W.  Morey,  long  resident  here  as 


430  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Consul  of  the  United  States  Government;  Messrs.  Volk 
Bros. ;  Delmege,  Reid  &  Co. ;  Ismael  Lebbe  &  Son ;  the  Gov- 
ernor's office,  the  managers  of  the  Grand  Oriental,  and  oth- 
ers, for  remembered  courtesies. 

In  a  few  hours  Ceylon — the  pearl  of  the  Indian  Ocean, 
the  geinmed  isle  of  the  sea — had  sunk  below  my  vision,  and 
left  my  thoughts  to  me. 

What  though  the  spicy  breezes 

Blow  soft  o'er  Ceylon's  isle, 
Though  every  prospect  pleases, 

And  only  man  is  vile? 

There  is  a  touching  incident  associated  with  Ceylon  that 
saddens  every  traveler  who  beholds  it.  It  is  the  death  of 
Bishop  Coke,  who  died  on  his  way  out  from  England  to 
India,  May  3,  1814,  and  was  buried  at  sea,  not  far  from 
Ceylon.  It  was  through  his  efforts  that  the  Wesleyan  Meth- 
odist missions  were  introduced  and  established  in  this  quar- 
ter of  the  globe. 

CHAPTER  XLIII. 

ON  THE  INDIAN  OCEAN — STRAITS  OF  MALACCA — 
PENANG,  SINGAPORE,  ETC. 

TN  three  days  we  sight  the  mountains  of  Sumatra  on  our 
JL  right,  and  shortly  after  Malacca  on  the  left.  One  day 
it  looked  like  we  would  have  a  cyclone,  the  angry  sea  rolled 
its  billows  over  our  ship  so  high.  But  the  cares  and  the 
sorrows  of  yesterday  are  chased  away  by  the  pleasures  of 
to-morrow.  We  have  joyous  sunshine  again  and  beautiful 
moonlight  nights.  Sir  John  and  I  are  the  only  Calcutta 
passengers  bound  for  China.  All  new  faces  at  the  table. 
Several  English  officers,  with  their  wives,  for  Singapore, 
two  or  three  bankers  for  Hong  Kong  and  Yokohama,  and 
a  missionary  for  Pekin,  with  a  half  dozen  others  for  Shang- 


On  the  Indian  Ocean.  431 

hai,  make  up  our  passenger  list.  It  is  one  month  yet  to 
Shanghai.  Our  officers  are  Scotch  and  English,  but  our 
sailors  are  Mohammedan  Hindoos,  with  Zanzibar  negroes 
for  coal-bunkers.  The  "Hydaspes"  is  a  Peninsular  and 
Oriental  ship,  a  beautiful  steamer,  with  a  staff  of  polite  and 
efficient  officers.  Since  the  storm  we  have  the  calmest  seas 
imaginable.  We  are  right  between  the  monsoons,  with  the 
finest  weather  possible.  The  African  firemen  sit  on  deck,  eat 
their  curry,  with  dried  fish,  and  tell  long  stories  like  their 
Georgia  cousins.  I  imagine  they  would  enjoy  "  'possum  and 
potatoes"  equally  as  well  (I  am  sorry  I  mentioned  that 
dish).  Every  now  and  then  one  will  break  his  sides  laugh- 
ing. They  have  low  insteps,  flat  noses,  thick  lips,  and  flat, 
kinky  heads.  They  are  the  genus  homos  of  pure  African 
scent;  Mohammedans  in  religion,  if  any  thing.  They  eat 
with  their  left-hand,  and  do  all  the  dirty  work  with  the 
other.  They  laugh  and  talk  while  eating.  Each  group  sits 
around  a  large  pan  of  rice  twice  a  day.  They  are  fond  of 
"scuffling,  or  the  double  shuffle,  and  are  not  at  all  partic- 
ular about  their  partners" 

We  have  been  sailing  east  with  slight  variations  ever 
since  we  left  New  York.  In  a  few  days  we  shall  turn  the 
curviture  of  the  earth's  surface,  with  a  slight  bearing  to  the 
north.  Every  day  brings  us  nearer  the  equator,  which  we 
shall  almost  touch  at  Singapore,  the  farther  end  of  the 
Malacca  Straits  we  have  j  ust  entered. 

On  yesterday  we  passed  the  one  hundred  and  eightieth 
degree  of  longitude,  having  completed  just  half  my  voyage 
around  the  world. 

The  approach  to  Penang  is  remarkably  beautiful.  The 
numerous  small  islands  dotting  the  bay,  the  fishermen's  huts, 
and  their  bamboo  trap-pens  on  the  edge  of  the  sea,  lend  a 
picturesque  charm  to  the  scene.  Twelve  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  from  Colombo  and  six  hours'  stroll  on  the  shore.  We 


432  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


drive  to  the  Cascades,  a 
few  miles  in  the  rear  of  the 
city,  and  ascending  the 
mountain  along  the  little 
stream,  several  hundred 
feet  high,  enjoy  an  en-  WE  DO  .N'T  MIND  IT. 

raptured  view  of  the  city  below  us,  with  its  harbor,  studded 
with  sail,  Chinese  junks,  and  sampans.  The  bay  gleams 
like  a  mirror  through  the  dense  tropical  foliage  of  the  palm- 
tree.  The  city  of  Penang  belongs  to  the  English,  and  con- 
tains a  population  of  eighty  thousand  inhabitants,  mostly 
Chinese.  Many  of  these  are  subjects  of  the  British  Gov- 
ernment, some  of  them  having  been  born  here  under  its 
flag.  They  yield  full  allegiance  to  the  Crown,  and  appear 
rather  proud  of  their  native  country.  I  observed  a  good 
deal  of  manufacturing  in  tin,  brass,  wood,  and  even  black- 
smith-shops conducted  by  Chinese.  Considerable  trade  was 
going  on  in  every  line  of  business.  In  some  of  the  stores  I 
saw  imported  goods  from  England.  Many  of  the  houses 
are  finely  built  ol  wood  and  brick,  a  few  of  the  private  res- 
idences along  the  drive  to  the  Cascades  being  especially 


On  the  Indian  Ocean. 


433 

noticeable  for  their  architectural  beauty  and  pretty  gardens 
of  shrubbery.  In  some  of  these  the  fan  and  traveler's  palms 
were  growing— perfect  beauties.  I  passed  several  josh  houses 
of  the  Chinese,  and  a  funeral-procession  I  will  describe  far- 
ther on.  Here  were  the  Hong  Kong  geese,  Shanghai  chick- 
ens, ducks,  and  the  first  hogs  we  had  seen — all  Chinese. 
These  people  are  very  fond  of  bits  of  fat  pork  with  their 
vegetables  for  dinner. 


MALAY  BOY. 


On  one  street  we  saw  a  large  quantity  of  nutmegs  (like 
pig-nuts)  drying,  and  the  English  houses  were  piled  high 
28 


434  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

witli  boxes  of  spice,  pimento,  etc.  The  Chinese  live  ups'airs 
over  their  stores,  and  often  in  rear  of  the  first  floor.  In 
•one  of  these  I  found  their  gods  sitting  on  a  mantel-piece  con- 
venient for  worship.  By  this  arrangement  the  Chinamen 
need  not  lose  any  time  attending  church.  You  can  buy  any 
number  of  these  gods,  in  jade  stone  and  carved  in  wood,  on 
the  streets.  The  Chinese  bankers  were  standing  behind 
counters  in  open  shops,  with  piles  of  Mexican  silver  dollars, 
ready  for  business.  Just  before  we  reached  the  market  a 
villainous-looking  Malay  approached  us,  speaking  very 
bad  English.  He  was  a  self-constituted  guide — pointed  to 
different  objects,  houses  and  things,  with  explanatory  ges- 
ticulations. We  paid  no  attention  to  the  pirate ;  but  the 
more  disgusted  we  became  the  more  courtesy  he  showed  us. 
We  finally  determined  on  a  desperate  expedient.  It  was  to 
rush  him  through  the  dried  fish  market,  for  we  felt  confi- 
dent the  stench  would  destroy  him.  He  came  out  at  the  op- 
posite end  unscathed.  We  then  paid  him  off  and  discharged 
him.  A  Japanese  who  accompanied  us  escaped  by  a  side- 
door,  nearly  deranged.  In  the  vegetable  department  we 
saw  fresh  fish,  shrimp,  pork,  poultry,  crabs,  sweet  and  Irish 
potatoes,  pease,  beans,  etc.  The  fruit  was  in  endless  variety. 
Here  was  a  fruit  we  had  never  seen  before.  Something 
new — must  be  delicious.  "  What  is  it  ?  "  addressing  a  Malay 
man.  "The  dorian,  sir.  Would  you  like  to  taste  it?" 
"  Yes,  certainly ;  it  resembles  a  pine-apple.  Goodness  gra- 
cious! polecats  and  skunks!"  "How  do  you  like  it,  sir? 
Very  fine  in  Penang!"  "You  don't  eat  this,  do  you?" 
"  Yes,  sir  !  "  "  Burned  feathers  and  assafetida !  you  ought  to  be 
hanged ! "  "  Yes,  sir ;  the  English  people  here  eat  it.  You  see 
it  requires  a  cultivated  taste  for  the  dorian."  "Yes,  I  see." 
That  dorian  produced  a  stampede  in  my  party,  and  I 
never  could  organize  the  boys  again  for  sight-seeing  in 
Penang.  We  took  a  boat  called  a  sampan  for  the  "  Hydas- 


On  the  Indian  Ocean.  435 


pes."  It  had  eyes  painted  on  the  bow.  We  asked  Johnny,  the 
Chinese  boatman,  "What's  that  for?"  With  a  broad  grin, 
he  replied :  "  No  got  eye  no  can  see,  no  can  see  no  can  savee ; 
no  can  savee  no  can  walkee;  no  can  walkee  how  can?" 
This  was  pigeon  (business)  English,  the  full  translation  of 
which  is,  "Without  eyes  the  boat  could  not  see  to  go  along." 


"NO   GOT  EYE  NO  CAN  SEE." 

This  was  the  first  pigeon  English  we  had  heard.  It  was 
more  refreshing  than  the  dorian. 

At  night  fish  darting  about  in  these  crystal  waters  appear 
to  carry  torches  with  them.  The  oars  of  the  sampan  seem 
to  dip  up  the  "liquid  light."  The  rain-drops  that  dimple 
the  sea  are  turned  into  myriads  of  diamonds. 

The  Governor  of  the  island  resides  at  Singapore,  and 
when  he  visits  here,  it  is  said,  the  cannons  boom  and  the 
jaatives  tremble  at  his  approach.  When  power  is  once  ac- 
quired by  the  English  they  understand  how  to  hold  it. 

We  have  observed  that  our  currency  has  changed  from 
rupees  into  Mexican  dollars,  and  the  catamaran  of  India 


436  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

into  the  sampan  of  China.  We  find  our  decks  Ml  of  "  Ce- 
lestials," and  more  coming  from  the  shore.  We  hear  that 
two  hundred  are  awaiting  our  arrival  at  Singapore.  Made 
their  fortune  in  the  Straits ;  now  going  home  to  spend  it. 
They  occupy  the  fore  part  of  our  deck,  with  their  baskets, 
trunks,  boxes,  matting,  rice-bags,  crates  of  ducks,  chickens, 
vegetables,  coal-stoves  for  cooking,  opium-pipes,  and  fumes 
in  general.  What  an  opportunity  for  studying  the  life, 
habits,  and  character  of  these  strange  people  we  shall  enjoy 
for  the  next  ten  days  to  Hong  Kong !  Wonderful  nation ! 
It  is  full  of  progress — the  elements  of  a  higher  civilization 
that  has  affected  the  literature  and  molded  the  thought  of 
Eastern  and  Western  Asia.  They  have  literally  overflowed 
the  shores  of  their  country  into  Siam,  Burmah,  Australia, 
and  the  Pacific  slopes  of  North  America.  The  original 
Ainos,  or  Japanese,  civilization  may  be  traced  to  China, 
while  the  Island  of  Formosa,  with  Cochin  China,  Corea, 
and  Borneo,  have  been  largely  molded  by  Chinese  thought 
and  life.  Educate  and  Christianize  this  wonderful  empire, 
with  its  four  hundred  million  of  inhabitants,  and  you  have 
won  for  Christ  nearly  one-third  of  the  whole  world. 

We  have  a  run  of  three  hundred  and  thirty  miles  down 
the  Malay  coast  before  reaching  Singapore.  On  our  left 
we  pass  the  beautiful  city  of  Malacca,  on  the  main-land— 
once  a  prosperous  place  of  business,  but  of  late  years  its 
principal  trade  has  been  diverted  to  Singapore.  The  Brit- 
ish flag  is  flying  above  the  fort,  and  a  few  Chinese  junks 
and  native  craft  are  strolling  about  the  harbor.  During 
the  American  war  Capt.  Raphael  Semmes,  of  the  gallant 
"Alabama,"  was  entertained  royally  by  the  English  ladies 
resident  at  Malacca.  Its  milk-white  houses  gleam  under 
the  shadows  of  lofty  mountains  in  the  background,  whose 
sloping  sides  are  covered  with  a  jungle  of  small  canes,  for 
which  the  Malacca  province  is  so  celebrated. 


On  the  Indian  Ocean. 


Singapore,  or  "  the  city  of  lions,"  is  situated  at  the  ex- 
treme eastern  end  of  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  on  a  point  of 
a  long  peninsula  that  projects  southward  from  the  conti- 
nent of  Asia.  The  island  is  only  separated  from  the  main- 
land by  a  narrow  channel  of  several  hundred  yards  in 
width,  being  twelve  miles  wide  and  twenty-seven  miles  long. 
The  Straits  of  Malacca  connect  the  Indian  Ocean  with  the 
China  Sea,  and  Singapore  is  situated  at  the  mouth  that 
opens  into  it.  No  city  in  the  world  enjoys  such  commercial 
advantages.  All  ships  passing  eastward  by  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  or  through  the  Suez  Canal,  or  from  India, 
must  enter  this  toll-gate,  or  pass  through  the  Straits  of 
Sunda,  that  separates  Malacca  from  Borneo.  In  either 
event  nearly  all  ships  call  at  Singapore  for  coal,  freights,  and 
fresh  supplies  of  provisions. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  May  we  steamed  up 
to  the  wharf  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Company, 
among  numerous  small  islands  and  tortuous  channels.  The 
water  seemed  very  deep.  We  looked  up  inlets  and  into 
sheltered  coves,  and  saw  the  native  huts,  covered  with 
palm-leaves  setting  on  bamboo  posts.  The  fishermen's  boats, 
in  which  the  families  Ijved,  were  tied  below  as  the  water 
ebbed  and  flowed. 

Rounding  to  the  wharf  to  avoid  the  coral  reefs,  the  cres- 
cent-shaped harbor  revealed  the  sail  and  shipping  from  every 
land  and  sea.  Great  steamers  were  coaling  for  their  long 
"homeward"  stretch  across  the  Indian  Ocean.  I  thought 
of  the  gallant  Captain  Semmes,  with  his  dauntless  little 
ship-of-war,  sailing  into  Singapore  twenty-one  years  ago. 
What  enthusiasm  and  curiosity  the  presence  of  the  "Ala- 
bama" must  have  excited  among  the  natives,  who  rushed 
aboard  to  see  the  great  black  giants  they  heard  were  chained 
below  !  The  character  of  the  different  nations  trading  at 
Singapore,  etc.,  is  so  graphically  described  in  his  "Service 


438  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Afloat,"  I  am  tempted  to  make  a  few  extracts.  After  al- 
luding to  his  hearty  reception  by  the  people  and  city,  Ad- 
miral Semmes  remarks: 

"  These  crowds  were  themselves  a  curiosity  to  look  upon, 
formed  as  they  were  of  all  the  nations  of  the  earth,  from  the 
remote  East  and  the  remote  West.  Singapore,  being  a  free 
port  and  a  great  center  of  trade,  there  is  always  a  large 
fleet  of  shipping  anchored  in  its  waters,  and  its  streets  and 
other  marts  of  commerce  are  constantly  thronged  with  a 
promiscuous  multitude.  The  canal — there  being  one  lead- 
ing to  the  rear  of  the  town — is  filled  with  country  boats 
from  the  surrounding  coasts,  laden  with  the  products  of  the 
different  countries  from  which  they  come.  There  is  the 
pepper  boat  from  Sumatra,  and  the  coaster  of  larger  size 
laden  with  tin  ore ;  the  spice  boats  from  the  spice  islands ; 
boats  with  tin  ore,  hides,  and  mats,  from  Borneo ;  boats  from 
Siam,  with  gums,  hides,  and  cotton ;  boats  from  the  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  Malay  peninsula,  with  canes,  gutta-percha 
and  India  rubber.  In  the  bay  are  ships  from  all  parts  of 
the  East;  from  China  with  silk  and  teas;  from  Japan  with 
lacquer-ware,  raw  silk,  and  curious  manufactures  of  iron, 
steel,  and  paper ;  from  the  Philippine  Islands,  with  sugar, 
hides,  tobacco,  and  spices.  Intermixed  with  these  are  the 
European  and  American  ships,  with  the  products  of  their 
various  countries.  As  a  consequence,  all  the  races  and  all 
the  religious  of  the  world  were  represented  in  the  throng 
that  crowded  the  coaling  jetty  to  look  upon  the  'Alabama,' 
wearing  the  flag  of  a  new  nation,  mysterious  for  it§  very  dis- 
tance from  them.  We  were  to  their  Eastern  eyes  a  curious 
people  of  the  antipodes. 

"The  physical  aspects  of  the  throng  were  no  less  curious 
than  its  moral.  There  were  the  Malay,  the  Chinese,  the 
Japanese,  the  Siamese,  the  Hindoo,  the  Persian,  the  wild 
Tartar,  the  Bornese,  the  Sumatran,  the  Javanese,  and  even 


On  the  Indian  Ocean.  439 

the  New  Zealander;  all  dressed — or  undressed,  as  the  case 
might  be — in  the  garb  of  their  respective  tribes  and  coun- 
tries. Some  of  the  most  notable  objects  among  the  crowd 
were  jet  black  Africans,  with  the  amplest  of  petticoat  trou- 
sers gathered  at  the  knee,  sandaled  feet  and  turbaned 
heads — the  more  shining  the  jet  of  the  complexion  the  more 

shining  the  turban Some  of  the  wonder-mongers 

actually  believed  that  we  kept  chained  in  the  hold  of  the 
'Alabama'  several  negro  giants  (they  had  heard  something 
about  the  negro  and  slavery  having  something  to  do  with 
the  war)  whom  we  armed  with  immense  weapons  and  let 
loose  in  time  of  battle,  as  they  were  wont  to  do  their  ele- 
phants !  They  waited  patiently  for  hours  under  their  paper 
umbrellas,  hoping  to  catch  a  sight  of  these  monsters. 

"  Singapore,  which  was  a  fishing  village  half  a  century 
ago,  contains  a  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  under 
the  free  port  system  has  become  a  great  center  of  trade. 
.  .  .  .  Great  Britain,  with  infinite  forecaste,  not  only 
girdles  the  seas  with  her  ships,  but  the  land  with  trading 
stations.  In  her  colonization  and  commerce  consists  her 
power." 

The  foregoing  is  a  true  picture  of  Singapore  to-day,  ex- 
cept that  much  of  her  former  trade  that  came  from  China 
and  Japan  is  now  done  through  open  ports  at  home. 

On  our  ship  coming  from  Penang  was  a  wealthy  Chinese 
gentleman,  with  whom  I  became  well  acquainted.  He  was 
born  under  the  British  flag;  spoke  and  wrote  excellent 
English.  He  was  making  the  voyage,  first-class,  to  Hong 
Kong,  on  a  visit  to  some  friends  in  China.  I  recall  with 
pleasure  the  name  of  Mr.  Yeow  Sew  Beow,  with  whom  I 
spent  many  pleasant  hours.  This  gentleman  informed  me 
he  saw  the  "Alabama  "  here  when  a  boy.  She  had  left  a  track 
of  flame  half  around  the  world  behind  her.  No  less  than 
twenty-two  American  ships  had  sought  refuge  in  Singapore. 


440  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

They  could  get  no  cargoes,  and  all  commerce  with  the 
United  States  was'  paralyzed  by  the  mysterious  movements 
of  this  one  little  man-of-war.  The  "  Wyoming,"  which  had 
been  watching  for  the  "Alabama,"  always  kept  out  of  her 
way.  In  all  this  memorable  cruise  I  have  found  Captain 
Semmes  as  humane  as  he  was  brave.  He  always  strictly 
observed  his  belligerent  rights  under  the  rules  of  war.  The 
world  has  not  produced  his  superior  since  the  days  of  Paul 
Jones  and  Nelson. 

For  an  hour  before  we  had  disembarked  we  were  highly 
entertained  by  the  wonderful  acrobatic  feats  of  some  Malay 
lads,  who  leaped  out  of  their  slender  boats  like  frogs  after  the 
small  silver  coins  we  threw  overboard.  The  water  was  so  clear 
they  would  invariably  overtake  the  coin  before  it  reached 
bottom.  They  brought  up  coral  and  sea-weed  for  souvenirs 
as  well.  Their  only  clothing  was  a  breech-cloth.  On  the 
shore  the  brilliant  display  of  fruits  vied  in  beauty  with  the 
boats  of  coral  and  lovely  shells.  The  different  hues,  shapes, 
and  wondrous  beauty  of  this  display  were  simply  marvelous. 
Here  were  immense  conch,  mulex,  spider  crab,  pearl,  and 
many  of  the  most  curious  shells  I  had  ever  seen.  Java  was 
only  three  days  away,  and  Australia  twelve.  A  regular 
line  of  steamers  to  Batavia,  connecting  at  Singapore,  af- 
forded easy  communication  with  Java.  Here  you  could  see 
from  that  island  the  pretty  red  cockatoo,  charming  paroquets, 
and  other  rare  birds.  As  for  monkeys,  Singapore  was  the 
paradise  for  this  burlesque  on  man. 

The  city  lay  off  about  two  miles  on  an  elevated  plain. 
Here  we  saw  the  first  jinrickisha,  the  man-power  baby  car- 
riage so  much  used  in  China  and  Japan.  But  we  wanted 
to  see  all  the  sights  in  the  city,  including  the  botanical  gar- 
dens, the  public  square,  Hotel  Europe,  Whampoa's  gardens, 
etc.,  and  preferred  a  four-wheel  gharry.  We  could  not  ef- 
fect a  bargain  with  'the  Malay  cabman.  He  asked  a  fabu- 


On  the  Indian  Ocean.  441 

lous  price,  which  we  declined  to  give,  and  at  once  organized 
a  pedestrian  tour  right  under  the  equator.  When  we  had 
disappeared  under  the  interlacing  branches  of  the  banyan, 
the  cocoa  palm,  and  banana  trees,  around  a  curve  on  a 
beautiful  road,  we  heard  a  thundering  noise  in  our  rear.  It 
was  the  gharryman,  running  his  horses  heels  off  to  overtake 
us,  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  He  accepted  our  offer, 
and  we  never  had  a  more  obliging  coachman.  His  horse 
was  party-colored,  a  little  black  and  white  pony,  native  of 
the  island — all  bottom.  Pretty  soon  we  saw  a  number 
which  looked  like  a  circus  had  just  disbanded.  Ours  was  a 
petted  animal.  He  had  to  be  coaxed,  pulled,  rubbed,  and 
led  off  a  little  before  he  would  get  steam  up.  But  when  he 
did  start  he  went  "  off  in  a  jiffy,"  the  driver  jumping  up. 
We  all  exclaimed,  "Farewell,  Susan  Jane!"  We  admire 
a  spirited  horse  in  this  climate  for  his  reckless  speed  and 
•endurance.  We  were  soon  in  town.  We  present  you  a 
picture  of  a  Malay  cottage  and  a  lady  we  saw  on  the  way. 
She  cast  sly  glances  as  we  hurried  by.  She  was  out  enjoy- 
ing a  breeze.  I  thought  of  friend  Ferguson  at  Colombo. 
He  ought  to  be  here  to  take  statistics.  I  am  sure  this  would 
be  his  report:  From  present  appearances  I  regret  to  an- 
nounce a  continual  falling  off  in  the  importation  of  cotton 
goods.  If  the  Malays  of  Singapore  and  Chinese  coolies 
were  each  to  purchase  twenty  cents  worth  of  English  cloth 
a  year  our  trade  would  greatly  prosper  with  that  island. 
This  lady  only  wore  a  skirt,  with  arms,  shoulders,  and  body 
decolette.  Her  parlor,  kitchen,  dining-room,  and  bed-room 
are  all  the  same.  She  has  no  chairs,  bedsteads,  sofas,  knives, 
plates,  or  forks  to  bother  her  about  housekeeping.  She  sets 
the  pot  aside,  folds  the  matting  away,  and  steps  down  the 
ladder  for  a  little  sight-seeing. 

There  is  nothing  like  style,  even  in  Malacca.     The  re- 
%ied,  educated,  and  wealthy  maidens  are  described  as  beau 


442 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


MALAY    HOUSE. 


tiful  (I  am  very  sorry),  with  soft,  lustrous  eyes  and  droop- 
ing eyelashes.  O  hush !  And  it  is  reported  they  even  dress 
tastefully !  Jes-so. 

Through  good  fortune  I  secured  a  picture  of  one  of  these 
Malayan  damsels,  who  wears  a  charming  "bit  of  a  hat," 
shaped  like  a  cheese-box.  It  is  twenty-four  by  six,  but  is 
light  and  airy.  On  gala  nights  these  girls  wear  "  lightning- 
bugs"  in  their  hair  to  make  themselves  more  attractive. 

The  Malay  men  are  athletic,  well-shaped  fellows,  with 
dark  brown  eyes  and  copper  skins.  Their  acceptance  of  the 
Moslem  religion  is  said  to  have  made  them  malignant  in 
hate  of  their  enemies.  They  are  naturally  a  kind  and  af- 
fectionate people. 

Besides  the  gharry  and  jinrikisha,  there  are  bullock-carts 
with  solid  wheels.  The  ox  has  a  hump  on  his  back  (Bur- 
mese), and  works  in  single  or  double  harness.  Every  thing 


On  the  Indian  Ocean. 


443 


MALAYAN   LADY. 


SO 


reminds  us  that  we  are  approaching  China.  We  see 
many  strange  sights.  We  meet  men  wearing  hats  three 
feet  in  diameter,  the  crown  running  up  into  a  cupola,  and 
others  wearing  a  funnel-shaped  head-gear  resembling  an  in- 
verted wash-bowl.  Two-thirds  of  the  population  are  prob- 
ably Chinese,  the  remainder  Malays,  East  Indians,  Asiatics, 
aud  six  or  seven  thousand  English  or  Europeans.  The 
Chinese  all  wear  "pig-tails."  I  saw  a  Chinese  policeman 
with  five  cues  in  his  hand,  driving  the  criminals  before  him 
to  jail.  Many  of  the  coolies  wind  the  cues  around  the  back 
of  their  heads,  tied  up,  or  sometimes  wrapped  around  their 


444  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

necks.  But  this  is  not  orthodox.  It  must  hang  down  his 
back,  as  an  emblem  of  his  subjection  to  Tartar  rule.  The 
coolies  wear  a  blue  cotton  blouse,  or  cloth,  about  their  hips. 
They  step  briskly  past  us,  with  a  light  springing  bamboo 
across  their  shoulders,  from  the  ends  of  which  are  suspended 
baskets,  buckets,  pails,  and  tubs.  These  are  the  market- 
men,  with  vegetables,  eggs,  fish,  ducks,  and  chickens.  We 
pass  a  street  in  which  nothing  but  bamboo  baskets  are  made ; 
then  shops  of  all  kinds  carry  on  the  trades  in  small  manu- 
factures. The  shoe-maker  puts  the  heel  on  his  boots  first; 
the  carpenter  draws  his  plane  toward  him  instead  of  push- 
ing it  away ;  the  mechanic  puts  the  roof  on  his  house  before 
weatherboarding,  etc.  Being  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
world,  the  Chinese  do  every  thing  the  opposite  way,  I  sup- 
pose. At  last  we  reach  the  public  square,  on  which  Hotel 
Europe  is  situated.  The  avenues  are  broad  and  beautifully 
shaded,  the  houses  near  the  hotel  being  generally  two  stories 
high,  of  brick,  and  covered  with  tile.  This  is  the  European 
quarter,  where  the  power  and  influence  of  their  business  are 
mostly  felt. 

We  found  our  bank,  the  chartered  Mercantile  (English), 
across  the  canal.  We  j.  resented  our  letter  of  credit  to  the 
manager,  and  while  we  are  talking  pleasantly  the  China- 
man counts  out  the  silver  dollars,  twirling  them  on  his  fin- 
gers to  see  that  they  are  genuine.  They  are  the  best  ac- 
countants and  office-men  I  ever  saw.  These  Mexican  dol- 
lars are  very  inconvenient,  but  will  be  current  throughout 
China  and  Japan.  When  I  left  Colombo  the  bank  was 
closed,  and  I  could  not  pay  Messrs.  Lebbe  &  Son  (Moor- 
men merchants)  a  bill  I  owed  them.  "Give  yourself  no 
trouble,  please.  Pay  us  in  Singapore."  I  asked  Mr.  Lebbe 
if  he  was  not  taking  risk  in  doing  this  kind  of  business. 
"  O  not  much,"  he  replied.  "We  hardly  ever  lose  a  cent. 
Recently  a  bogus  nobleman  got  away  to  India  with  a  few 


On  the  Indian  Ocean.  445 

thousand  rupees,  but  I  caught  the  noble  rascal  on  the  Bur- 
mese coast,  by  telegraph,  and  we  are  trying  him  now." 

I  mention  this  incident  to  show  the  mutual  confidence 
existing  among  business  men  on  this  side  of  the  globe.  It 
was  the  basis  of  all  transactions  with  us  before  our  civil 
war.  But  now  a  farmer  in  Georgia  would  have  to  mortgage 
his  land  or  crop  to  raise  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  dol- 
lars. 

The  manager  asked  me  if  I  would  not  have  a  drink  of 
ice-water.  The  ice  is  manufactured  here  at  one  cent  a 
pound.  The  punka-waller  was  creating  a  splendid  breeze 
throughout  the  building.  The  inevitable  "  bawth  "  was  close 
at  hand;  so  between  the  equatorial  showers,  the  punka- 
coolers,  and  bath-tub,  -an  Englishman  manages  to  exist 
throughout  the  year.  In  truth,  Singapore  is  claimed  to  be 
very  healthy — a  kind  of  Madeira  for  the  East.  Here  the 
sun  rises  and  sets  at  six  o'clock  every  day  in  the  year,  the 
days  and  nights  being  about  equal.  Singapore  is  situated 
seventy  miles  north  of  the  equator.  Here  perpetual  spring,, 
with  its  bursting  buds  and  blooming  flowers,  triumphantly 
reigns.  There  is  no  winter,  summer,  nor  autumn;  show- 
ers nearly  every  day  to  temper  the  heat,  and  breezes  laden 
with  the  perfume  of  nutmeg  and  orange  groves,  make  it  a 
veritable  paradise.  The  mercury  hardly  ever  falls  below 
seventy  degrees,  or  rises  above  ninety  degrees,  in  Singapore. 
Neither  the  typhoons  of  the  China  Sea  nor  cyclones  of  the 
Indian  Ocean  reach  these  favored  shores. 

I  was  sorry  to  hear  of  the  death  of  Mr.  Whampoa,  the 
Chinese  prince  merchant  of  Singapore.  We  desired  to  see 
his  charming  home  and  gardens,  two  miles  from  town.  In 
1877  Bishop  Marvin  and  Dr.  Hendrix  met  Mr.  Whampoa 
person  ally,  and  received  distinguished  courtesies  at  his  hands. 
Both  of  these  authors  have  given  an  admirable  description 
of  their  visit  to  these  celebrated  gardens.  I  did  not  meet 


446 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


his  son,  Mr.  Whampoa,  jr.;  but  hurried  down  a  broad 
avenue  of  matchless  beauty,  lined  with  stately  palms  and 
tall,  feathery  bamboos,  whose  extended  branches  interlaced 
overhead.  The  wild  almond  and  heliotrope  bloomed  along 


AVENUE  TO  WHAMPOA'S  GARDENS. 

the  hedges ;  shrubs  and  vines,  whose  beautiful  flowers  peeped 
out  from  their  wealth  of  foliage,  filled  the  air  with  strange 
and  sweet  perfumes.  We  saw  sugar-cane  and  sweet  po- 
tatoes growing  to  perfection.  Never  was  there  a  scene 
more  ravishing  to  the  senses  or  beautiful  to  study  in  its  va- 
ried charms. 

Arriving  at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds  on  the  right  of 
the  avenue,  we  approached  the  residence,  half  obscured  by 
dense  tropical  foliage.  On  either  side  of  the  walk  from  the 
gate  were  plants  and  flowers,  and  in  the  rear  were  the  zoo- 
logical gardens.  The  residence  itself  was  closed,  in  charge 
of  a  few  Chinese  servants.  The  bottom  story  was  accessi- 
ble by  many  glass  windows  and  doors,  which  admitted  a  full 


On  the  Indian  Ocean.  447 

inspection  of  interior  objects  from  the  outside.  During  his 
life  Mr.  Whampoa  gathered  many  rare  works  of  art  and 
curious  bronzes,  lacquer,  etc.,  from  foreign  countries.  A 
marvelous  piece  of  workmanship  is  an  elaborately  carved 
ball  of  ivory  that  is  said  to  contain  twenty-two  others,  cut 
out  of  one  solid  piece  (Chinese  or  Japanese).  The  furni- 
ture, silver,  and  other  ornaments  we  saw  reminded  me  of  an 
English  rather  than  a  Chinese  home.  But  with  all  this 
culture  and  refinement,  Mr.  Wharnpoa  was  a  heathen.  "  The 
subtle  fumes  of  burning  incense,  mingling  with  the  odors  of 
spices  and  flowers,  rose  from  the  garden"  before  Dr.  Hen- 
drix  and  Bishop  Marvin.  I  was  rather  disappointed  in  the 
ornamentation,  from  the  descriptions  I  had  read  in  works  of 
travel.  Probably  the  garden  is  on  the  decline  since  Mr. 
Whampoa's  death,  and  does  not  present  such  a  striking 
perspective ;  but  it  is  yet  really  charming.  The  collection 
of  its  palms  is  one  of  its  most  lovely  features.  The  fan  palm 
is  the  glory  of  its  species.  Here  it  attains  to  gigantic  pro- 
portions, each  leaf  being  seven  to  eight  feet  in  length.  The 
stems  of  the  leaves  radiated  from  the  trunk  like  an  open 
fan.  Sometimes  you  observe  the  natives  sheltered  from  the 
heat  of  the  sun  under  a  single  leaf  by  the  road-side.  But 
the  crowning  glory  of  these  gardens,  in  my  estimation,  are 
the  immense  Victoria  Regias,  quite  four  feet  in  diameter,  I 
saw  growing  in  a  pond,  or  lakelet,  close  by.  The  leaf 
spreads  out  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  round  as  a  plate, 
with  its  edges  turned  up  an  inch  or  two,  strikingly  beauti- 
ful. In  another  place  I  saw  the  lotus,  the  sacred  flower  of 
the  Buddhist,  in  bloom.  It  resembles  the  white  pond-lilies 
I  have  often  seen  in  Georgia.  All  kinds  of  plants  and 
shrubs  are  growing  in  the  open  air,  the  black  pepper  vine, 
tea,  spice,  and  coffee  being  among  those  cultivated.  A 
green  rose  was  one  of  Mr.  Whampoa' s  specialities.  Orange- 
trees,  with  a  peculiarly  variegated  foliage,  bloom  and  bear 


448  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

fruit  the  year  round.  The  training  of  the  shrubbery  on 
wire  frames  to  represent  different  objects,  both  animate  and 
inanimate,  was  very  curious.  Animals  and  birds,  as  well  as 
other  representations,  were  evidences  of  the  rare  genius  and 
love  of  art  displayed  in  these  gardens.  I  saw  a  dog  in  the 
attitude  of  barking  furiously ;  a  deer  with  head  erect  as  if 
he  heard  the  dog.  There  were  birds  about  to  fly  and  others 
at  rest,  dogs,  hogs,  and  a  picture  of  an  elephant  trained  out 
of  a  box  plant ;  a  monkey  was  eating  a  cocoa-nut,  and  there 
was  a  fish  ready  to  swim  off.  There  were  figures  represent- 
ing a  pagoda,  a  gharry  with  horses  running  away,  ships 
with  sail,  and  flower-vases  as  tall  as  my  head.  I  thought 
the  glass  eyes  somewhat  marred  the  natural  beauty  of  sev- 
eral objects. 

In  Mr.  Whampoa's  zoological  gardens  there  were  curious 
black  swans  and  ducks  that  interested  me.  One  was  a  man- 
darin, or  China  duck.  There  was  a  queer,  web-footed  bird, 
with  a  long,  slender  bill,  which  I  think  is  outside  of  any  no- 
menclature; I  had  never  seen  it  before.  But  the  golden 
and  silver  pheasant  just  captivated  my  heart.  A  kangaroo, 
from  Australia,  that  had  two  short  legs  in  front  and  two 
long  ones  in  the  rear,  hopped  along  on  its  tail,  almost  erect. 
When  he  is  hunted  in  Australia  he  jumps  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  at  a  bound.  Another  pretty  little  animal,  called  a 
"  mouse  deer,"  not  much  larger  than  a  rat,  was  running  at 
full  speed  around  its  pen.  The  ibex,  Borneo  bear,  monkeys, 
parrots  and  other  birds,  make  up  the  exhibit.  Mr.  Whampoa 
was  a  mandarin.  Whether  this  title  was  conferred  on  account 
of  his  wealth  or  his  literary  attainments,  I  am  not  informed 
— probably  both.  At  the  city  zoological  gardens  was  the 
emu,  a  tall  bird  resembling  an  ostrich,  which  is  also  a  con- 
spicuous figure  in  this  new  collection.  This  is  the  bird  our 
distinguished  Georgian  hunted  on  the  African  coast  during 
the  cruise  of  the  "Alabama,"  at  Saldanha  Bay.  I  allude  to. 


On  the  Indian  Ocean.  449 

Lieut.  J.  M.  Kell,  now  retired  on  his  farm,  near  Griffin, 
Ga.  Kell  got  several  shots,  but  no  plumes.  "  The  devil- 
ish birds,  as  big  as  horses  and  running  twice  as  fast,  refused 
to  heave  to  when  I  fired  shots  across  their  bows."  ("  Serv- 
ice Afloat.") 

The  English  have  a  fort  and  garrison  in  Singapore,  which 
is  also  the  official  residence  of  the  Governor.  There  are 
but  few,  if  any,  American  residents  here.  The  European 
population  is  composed  of  English  and  Germans.  But  it  is 
evident,  except  the  export  trade,  the  business  of  Singapore 
is  largely  drifting  into  the  hands  of  Chinese  merchants. 
They  own  most  of  the  vacant  lots  and  real  estate  in  the  city. 
They  begin  to  display  their  wealth  in  fine  horses,  swell  turn- 
outs, with  their  coachmen  and  footmen  in  livery.  This  os- 
tentatious display,  in  contrast  with  their  life  at  home,  is 
somewhat  striking  to  a  foreigner. 

We  see  the  Malay  sitting  patiently  in  his  shop,  cross- 
legged,  waiting  for  a  customer.  He  is  a  money  broker  as 
well  as  a  cabman.  The  Malays  own  several  mosques  here, 
and  a  conversion  to  Christianity  among  them  is  a  rare  oc- 
currence. While  the  Chinese  are  the  more  active,  money- 
getting  people  of  Singapore,  they  have  been  compelled  from 
some  cause  to  adopt  the  Malay  language  in  business. 

The  luxuriance  of  tropical  nature,  with  its  vegetation  and 
marvelous  growth,  strikes  every  traveler  here  with  wonder 
and  amazement.  You  see  all  the  fruits  as  well  as  flowers 
along  the  road-side.  The  banana  and  even  the  pine-apple 
appear  to  be  indigenous  and  growing  wild.  The  hill-sides 
are  covered  with  them,  inside  the  city  limits.  Every  bush 
or  tree  left  a  short  time  becomes  a  jungle  covered  with  vines. 
The  forest  around  Singapore  presents  one  of  the  grandest 
sights  in  the  world.  Little  rattans  no  larger  than  a  walk- 
ing-cane wind  themselves  round  and  round  the  bodies  of 
towering,  gigantic  trees,  then,  creeping  along  the  branche? 
29 


450 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


FRUITS  OF  SINGAPORE. 

over  interlacing  limbs  from  tree  to  tree,  are  lost  in  a  tangled 
wilderness.  Sometimes  a  twiner  ten  inches  in  diameter 
encircles  the  tree .  as  it  ascends,  runs  out  upon  the  limbs, 
drops  to  the  ground  its  tendrils,  which  take  root  and  doub- 
ling again  upon  themselves,  and  gathering  tree  after  tree  in 
their  embrace,  like  Laocoon's  serpents,  writhe  in  their 
mighty  struggles.  In  these  impenetrable  jungles,  as  dark 
&s  midnight,  ferocious  tigers,  lions,  and  reptiles  live.  The 
birds  of  paradise,  macaws,  and  parrots,  with  others  of 
brilliant  plumage,  are  found  along  the  sea-coast.  Here 
gutta-percha  was  first  discovered,  without  which  it  is  doubt- 
ful whether  a  submarine  cable  across  the  Atlantic  iould 
ever  have  been  laid. 


From  Singapore  to  Hong  Kong.  451 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  HONG  KONG. 

TT  is  seven  days  from  Singapore  to  Hong  Kong.  We 
-1  leave  the  equator  now  and  sail  up  the  north  coast  of 
China,  rising  higher  and  higher  in  latitude  every  day.  We 
are  sailing  around  on  the  curviture  of  the  earth's  surface, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  world  from  Georgia,  in  the  China 
Sea.  Our  geographical  position  to  the  sun  too  has  changed. 
We  no  longer  see  it  rise  in  the  east,  as  it  has  done  for  the 
past  three  months  of  our  voyage;  but  it  rises  now  in  our 
west,  over  the  mountains  of  Japan.  When  we  reach  Yoko- 
hama, forty-three  degrees  north  of  the  equator,  and  begin 
to  cross  the  Pacific  Ocean  toward  San  Francisco,  it  will  rise 
again  in  the  east.  In  making  a  voyage  around  the  world 
we  do  not  cross  the  equator,  but  in  going  to  Australia  we 
do.  That  island,  or  continent,  is  the  antipodes  of  North 
America.  When  it  is  summer  with  us  it  is  winter  there. 
The  line  of  latitude  north  and  south  of  the  equator  regu- 
lates the  climate.  On  the  same  latitude  around  the  globe 
we  find  pretty  much  the  same  vegetation,  productions,  fruits, 
and  flowers.  When  we  reach  Shanghai,  thirty-two  and 
one-half  degrees  north,  on  the  same  line  as  Augusta,  Ga.,  I 
expect  to  find  peaches,  apples,  plums,  and  cherries  among 
the  fruits,  and  corn,  barley,  cotton,  wheat,  oats,  and  rice 
cultivated. 

In  a  few  days  we  passed  almost  in  sight  of  Cochin  China, 
of  which  Saigon  is  the  political  capital.  The  French  are 
currying  on  a  war  with  China  in  Annam  and  Tonquin,  in- 
volving territorial  rights  and  the  free  navigation  of  the  Red 
River  by  the  former.  The  truth  is,  France  is  ambitious  for 
the  acquisition  of  more  territory,  and  has  raised  the  right 
of  suzerainty  to  justify  her  belligerent  attitude.  She  has 


452  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

an  evil  eye  on  Burinah  as  well,  adjoining  her  Cochin  China 
possessions  on  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  or  Indian  Ocean.  But 
that  question  will  be  contested  by  England,  while  China 
will  resist  her  encroachment  on  her  borders  in  the  east. 
The  French  have  utterly  failed  as  colonizers.  They  seldom 
leave  home.  There  are  but  few  in  the  cities  of  Annam  or 
Tonquin,  I  learn.  The  principal  business  is  in  the  hands 
of  the  Chinese,  except  a  few  export  houses  at  Saigon.  While 
the  main-land  stretched  away  on  our  left,  we  were  passing 
on  the  right  a  chain  of  beautiful  islands  that  studded  the 
China  Sea.  One  of  these  was  Pulo  Condore,  the  most  ex- 
treme point  east  the  "Alabama"  made  during  her  cruise  in 
the  China  Sea.  The  island  is  claimed  by  the  French,  whose 
Governor  extended  Captain  Semmes  a  royal  welcome. 
While  here  for  several  weeks,  Kell  overhauled  the  ship  and 
put  her  in  good  sailing  trim  for  her  return  voyage.  The 
Governor  sent  the  Captain  a  pig,  and  gave  him  carte  blanche 
to  his  potato-patch.  Kell  and  the  boys  had  a  jolly  round  of 
fun  on  the  shore.  He  shot  bison  and  small  deer,  and  heard 
.•f  immense  serpents  in  the  jungle.  He  killed  a  vampire 
that  measured  five  feet  six  inches  from  tip  to  tip.  These 
birds  have  been  known  to  kill  a  man  or  a  horse,  sucking 
the  life-blood  out  of  them.  They  have  sharp  teeth  like  a 
wolf.  There  is  a  locust  that  screams  like  a  locomotive- 
whistle,  and  a  tree  that  grows  short  pieces  of  wood  ex- 
actly the  length  and  shape  of  a  Havana  cigar.  "  It  is  a  per- 
fect representation,  possessing  even  the  proper  color,"  re- 
marked Lieut.  Kell.  Monkeys  traveled  in  troops  through 
the  woods,  while  parrots  and  other  beautiful  birds  wheeled 
in  great  numbers  over  their  heads.  At  night  many  sea- 
serpents  were  discovered  crawling  up  the  cables  on  deck  of 
the  "Alabama."  The  sailors  had  stopped  up  the  holes,  one 
of  them  having  seen  the  snakes  before.  Every  day  the 
apes  and  monkeys  gathered  along  the  shore,  manifesting  in- 


From  Singapore  to  Hong  Kong.  453 

tense  curiosity,  looking  at  the  ship.  Captain  Semmes  says 
they  grinned  and  chattered  like  a  lot  of  old  niggers  one 
sees  along  the  African  coast.  One  day  the  midshipman  shot 
an  old  gentleman.  He  threw  up  his  hands  and  screamed, 
then  placing  them  over  the  wound  mourned  plaintively. 
The  officer  remarked  he  felt  awfully  sorry.  "It  was  like 
killing  his  old  uncle  on  his  father's  plantation."  Captain 
Semmes  went  ashore  to  get  a  sight  for  his  chronometers,  and 
found  the  monkeys  burying  the  dead.  "  The  deceased  must 
have  been  popular,  judging  by  the  large  attendance  at  the 
funeral,"  observes  the  Captain. 

Ever  since  I  heard  a  gorilla  was  setting  a  railroad  switch 
down  in  South  Africa,  I  have  taken  more  than  usual  in- 
terest in  these  "lampoons  on  human  nature."  Captain 
Semmes  observes  further  that  a  party  of  apes,  old  men  and 
women,  with  their  gangs  of  children,  came  strolling  along 
the  beach  every  morning,  arranging  themselves  in  rows,  and 
sometimes  looked  at  bis  ship  for  an  hour.  The  young  folks 
walked  about  the  beach  in  twos  and  threes,  making  love. 
The  children  romped  around  the  old  people,  screaming  and 
barking  in  very  delight.  If  a  boat  approached  the  shore, 
the  parents  would  give  a  whistle,  and  off  the  youngsters 
would  scamper  up  the  trees. 

On  the  fifth  day  we  were  getting  well  on  toward  Hong 
Kong.  A  number  of  our  English  passengers  had  departed 
at  Singapore.  A  particularly  charming  face  and  striking 
figure  had  been  missed  at  the  evening  promenades  on  deck. 
Our  largely  increased  Chinese  passenger  list,  numbering 
fully  three  hundred,  had  been  engaged  in  cooking,  'eating, 
smoking,  and  gambling  the  entire  voyage.  Each  group 
spread  down  a  mat,  and  sat  around  in  a  circle,  throwing  dice 
all  day.  They  usually  played  for  a  cash,  one-tenth  of  a 
cent,  and  sometimes  a  dinner.  They  cooked  their  dinners 
on  little  coal-stoves,  two  or  more  messing  together.  The 


454 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


rice  was  boiled  dry  and  eaten  with  bits  of  pork,  chicken, 
and  vegetables.  Instead  of  knives  and  forks,  they  used 
chop-sticks.  These  were  sometimes  bamboos,  or  little  sticks 
about  one  foot  long,  made  smaller  at  one  end.  They  held 
these  between  the  first  and  second  fingers,  the  lower  one 


CHOP-STICKS. 

resting  against  the  thumb.  With  these  they  can  pick  up  a 
grain  of  rice  or  a  vegetable,  poke  up  the  fire,  or  "  knock  the 
puppy  off  as  well."  When  they  eat  rice  they  raise  the 
bowls  to  their  mouths,  and  with  these  chop-sticks  just  shuf- 
fle it  in.  The  rice  takes  the  place  of  bread.  They  are 
fond  of  stewed  chicken  and  duck,  with  the  bones  taken  out 


From  Singapore  to  Song  Kong.  455 

and  cut  up  into  small  bits.  They  have  a  variety  of  vegeta- 
bles, cooked  with  little  pieces  of  fat  pork,  etc.,  which  they 
pick  up,  one  little  piece  at  a  time,  and  eat.  They  seem  to  en- 
joy their  meals,  and  after  each  have  a  smoke.  It  would  amuse 
you  to  see  them  clean  and  cook  a  chicken.  The  lesson  incul- 
cated in  this  one  habit  solves  the  individual  and  national 
prosperity  of  this  remarkable  people.  It  is  economy.  The 
fowl  is  picked  and  the  feathers  saved  for  pillows  and  beds. 
The  head,  tongue,  toes,  and  legs  go  into  the  soup-pan  in 
small  bits.  The  entrails  are  carefully  prepared  for  chitter- 
lings, while  the  fowl  is  cooked  as  I  have  observed.  That 
little  dog,  may  be,  will  take  his  turn  in  the  kitchen  by 
and  by. 

One-third  of  these  people  smoke  opium.  The  exports  of 
this  accursed  drug  from  India  amount  to  forty  million  dol- 
lars per  annum  probably.  Nearly  all  this  is  sold  in  the 
free  port  of  Hong  Kong  by  the  English.  Its  sale  is  forced 
on  the  Chinese  against  the  earnest  protestations  of  their 
Government.  But  the  Government  is  powerless  to  prevent 
it.  Shame  on  Christian  England !  It  was  first  introduced 
into  China  by  the  East  India  Company,  one  hundred  years 
ago,  and  brought  on  the  war  of  1840,  called  the  "  Opium 
War."  The  result  of  this  struggle  was  the  acquisition  of 
Hong  Kong  by  the  English.  The  slave  trade  was  merciful 
compared  to  this  act  of  England,  forcing  opium  on  the 
Chinese.  Listen  to  what  a  heathen  emperor  said  to  a  Chris- 
tian queen :  "  I  cannot  prevent  the  flowing  poison,  but  noth- 
ing will  induce  me  to  derive  an  income  from  the  vice  and 
misery  of  my  people."  Mr.  Martin,  late  Treasurer  to  her 
Majesty's  Government  at  Hong  Kong,  in  a  noble  outburst 
of  indignation,  declared :  "  The  records  of  wickedness  since 
the  world  was  created  furnish  no  parallel  to  the  wholesale 
murders  which  the  British  nation  have  been,  and  still  are, 
hourly  committing  in  China."  Can  you  imagine  any  thinp 


456 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


more  horrible?  Even  a  drunken  man  may  reform;  but 
an  opium-smoker,  once  addicted  to  the  habit,  must  die  in 
five  or  six  years. 


OPIUM-SMOKERS. 

I  saw  two  of  these  poor  wretches  secreted  under  a  little 
tent  they  had  improvised  for  the  occasion  the  second  day 
after  leaving  Singapore.  They  don't  like  to  be  looked  at. 
They  were  very  sly,  and  did  not  enjoy  my  occasional  glances. 
I  bought  one  of  the  pipes  to  examine  it.  It  was  about 
eighteen  inches  long,  with  a  clay  bowl  on  top.  The  stem 
was  bamboo.  Generally  two  smoke  together,  always  re- 
clining, taking  the  pipe  between  them  by  turns.  The  crude 
opium,  brought  direct  from  Calcutta,  is  prepared  for  use  at 
Hong  Kong.  They  take  a  little  globule  the  size  of  a  pea, 
hold  it  over  a  lighted  lamp,  then  work  it  in  the  little  bowl, 
holding  it  over  the  flame  again  until  it  blazes.  They  then  in- 
sert it  in  the  pipe,  drawing  the  smoke  down  to  their  lungs  and 
letting  it  escape  through  their  noses.  Five  or  six  whiffs,  and 
the  little  ball  is  gone.  One  smoker  fills  the  pipe  again  and 


From  Singapore  to  Hong  Kong.  457 

hands  it  to  his  companion.  Pretty  soon  both  men  begin  to 
giggle,  grin,  laugh,  and  grow  funny.  In  a  few  minutes  they 
are  off  to  the  happy  land.  But  O  the  horrible  sensations  that 
succeed  the  waking!  It  must  be  a  hell  with  torments  un- 
utterable. Soon  after  the  habit  is  contracted  the  victim 
grows  haggard  and  lean ;  his  cheek-bones  protrude  and  his 
eyes  sink  in  their  sockets.  Very  few  survive  longer  than 
five  years.  The  habit  itself  is  quite  expensive,  costing  fully 
one  dollar  per  day. 

Marriages  are  contracted  at  an  early  age  in  China,  by  the 
parents,  as  in  India.  They  differ  in  modes  and  customs. 
There  is  no  caste  or  zenana  life  in  China ;  but  the  isolation 
of  women  after  marriage  in  a  Chinese  home  almost  amounts 
to  the  prison  life  of  India. 

The  Chinese  bury  their  dead  according  to  the  custom  cf 
Christian  nations.  Tne  ceremonials  attending  the  obsequies 
are  full  of  curious  interest.  A  rich  Chinaman  had  died 
before  I  reached  Singapore,  and  had  been  buried  in  great 
pomp  a  few  miles  out  of  that  city.  An  English  passenger 
who  attended  the  funeral  gives  me  a  most  interesting  ac- 
count of  this  event : 

The  grave  was  dug  in  the  shape  of  a  horseshoe,  huts 
erected  and  temporary  accommodations  improvised  for 
the  funeral.  The  body  of  the  deceased  was  placed  in  a 
highly  decorated  funeral-car,  borne  in  great  pomp  on  the 
shoulders  of  men.*  There  were  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
eight  pall-bearers  who  followed  the  body  five  miles  in 
the  country  to  the  new-made  grave.  The  decorations  of 
the  car  were  on  the  most  magnificent  scale.  The  display  of 
flowers  was  gorgeous,  while  diamonds  and  jewels  glittered 
and  vied  in  brilliancy  with  the  rich  ornamentations  of  the 
canopy  overhead.  The  casket  was  lowered  over  the  grave, 
when  the  ceremonies  began.  Women  in  sackcloth  appeared, 
prostrating  themselves  on  the  ground  with  bitter  lamenta- 

*  The  Chinese  scatter  paper  counterfeits  of  money  on  the  way  to  the  grave, 
that  the  evil  spirit  following  the  corpse  may,  by  delaying  to  gather  them,  re- 
main in  ignorance  of  the  locality  of  the  grave.  They  also  scatter  in  the  wind, 
above  the  grave,  paper  images  of  the  sedan-hearers  and  other  servants,  that 
they  may  overtake  the  soul  and  act  in  its  service. 


458  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

tions.  Men  bowed  three  times.  The  tom-tom  struck  up  its 
bedlam  of  sounds ;  fire-crackers  were  thrown  in  the  air,  and 
exploded  in  every  direction.  The  priest  made  burnt-offer- 
ings, and  the  day  ended  in  a  festive  celebration.  The  palm 
houses  and  tents  around  displayed  a  wealth  of  viands,  fruits, 
etc.,  for  invited  guests  and  friends  of  the  deceased.  There  were 
samshu  and  bhang*  for  the  Chinese,  and  plenty  of  beer  and 
whisky  for  the  English  to  drink.  When  the  festivities 
were  ended  the  body  was  adjusted  in  the  grave  by  a  square 
and  compass,  and  the  head  of  the  dead  man  was  laid  to  the 
east.  The  grave  was  finished  up  with  cement,  and  dirt 
drawn  over  it.  The  cost  of  this  funeral  was  about  three 
thousand  dollars. 

One  of  the  most  amusing  incidents  of  the  voyage  was  to- 
hear  the  Chinese  speaking  "pigeon  English" — that  is,  bus- 
iness English.  When  our  language  is  not  learned  at  school 
the  Chinese  find  it  impossible  to  acquire  it  afterward.  So 
they  have  constructed  out  of  different  words,  taken  from 
two  or  three  nations — such  as  English,  Portuguese,  and 
Spanish — a  language  of  their  own,  which  is  simply  the 
Chinese  spoken  language  rendered  into  English,  according 
to  the  Chinese  idiom.  When  they  fail  on  an  English  word 
they  put  in  Spanish,  French,  or  Portuguese.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  acquirements  ever  made  by  any  nation. 
The  following  illustrations  give  you  some  idea  of  its  con- 
struction: "My  no  save,"  I  do  not  know.  "No  belong  my 
pigeon,"  none  of  my  business.  "Mosqui"  (Portuguese), 
never  mind.  Then  the  short  words — "  Chop,  chop,"  quick, 
quick;  "top  side,"  means  upstairs,  and  "bottom  side"  down- 
stairs. "  How  fashion  ?  "  what  like  ?  A  very  funny  inquiry 
relates  to  their  children :  "  Have  you  see  one  piece  of  child  ?  " 
Have  you  seen  my  child?  "If  you  havee,  makee  walkee 

*  Samshu  is  a,  liquor  made  in  China  from  rice,  and  bhang  is  dis- 
tilled from  hemp. 


From  Singapore  to  Hong  Kong.  459 

long  this  way ;  we  too  muchee  bear  ye  whilo,  so  long  a  time 
to  stay."* 

As  we  approached  Hong  Kong  we  saw  bold  rocks  rising 
out  of  the  sea,  shooting  up  like  cathedral  spires ;  Chinese 
junks  with  square  topsails,  and  other  quaint-looking  craft, 
upon  which  the  numerous  families  were  living,  flit  by  us 
under  swelling  canvas.  Every  bow  had  eyes  painted  on 
either  side,  while  the  junks  rose  very  high  out  of  the  water 
in  front  and  rear.  Behind  were  a  gate  and  ponderous  rud- 
der, and  overhead  was  matting  for  an  awning,  under  which 
probably  many  of  these  children  were  born.  As  we  rounded 
a  bold  headland,  under  a  great  mountain  peak  of  rock,  our 
ship  boomed  its  little  cannon  as  a  signal  for  Hong  Kong. 
Presently  a  myriad  of  twinkling  lights  flashed  from  the 
bungalows  on  the  terraced  slopes  of  a  lofty  mountain,  re- 
sembling the  star-lit  dome  of  heaven.  We  anchored  in  the 
spacious  harbor,  which,  like  the  city,  seemed  ablaze  with 
lanterns  hanging  from  the  masts  of  ships  that  represented 
almost  every  nation.  It  was  a  picture  of  striking  beauty, 
never  to  be  forgotten.  As  the  sampans,  with  their  eager 
occupants,  crowded  around  the  "  Hydaspes  "  to  welcome  some 
long-absent  husband  or  son,  who  was  now  returning  from 
Penang  and  Singapore  with  accumulated  riches,  I  thought 
I  saw  the  loving  mother  who  embraced  her  son,  the  wife 
her  husband,  and  the  anxious,  timid  maiden  awaiting  her 
long-expected  beau.  What  happiness,  what  enthusiastic 
joy  would  welcome  these  people  at  their  homes!  Wherever 
I  turned  my  eyes  the  harbor  presented  a  scene  of  moving  life 
and  bustle.  The  sampans  were  so  numerous  I  imagined  I 
could  almost  walk  ashore  upon  them. 

Early  the  following  morning,  in  May,  we  moved  up  to 
our  magnificent  wharf,  fronting  the  beautiful  city  of  Hong 
Kong.  We  should  have  two  days  here,  which  would  en- 
able us  to  see  Canton,  about  eighty  miles  distant. 

*"Tell  the  lady  upstairs  to  come  down."  Go  fetchee  piecee  woman  top 
siae — down-stairs — bottom  side. 


460  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

The  island  upon  which  Hong  Kong  is  located  is  ten  miles 
long  and  five  broad.  It  was  formerly  inhabited  by  thieves 
called  ladrones.  The  English  population  of  the  city  is 
two  thousand  five  hundred,  while  the  Chinese  exceed  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  in  number.  The  city  is  built 
upon  a  slope  of  a  lofty  mountain,  extending  down  to  the  sea. 
Several  of  the  streets  are  built  up  with  excellent  houses, 
some  two  and  three  stories  high,  of  brick — solid  blocks,  that 
resemble  a  European  city,  which  a  part  in  reality  is,  as 
far  as  its  architectural  structure  is  concerned.  Even  the 
Chinese  had  rivaled  the  English  in  building  their  houses 
during  a  great  speculation  in  real  estate  here,  some  years 
ago,  that  came  near  bankrupting  Chinese  and  all.  Lots 
and  houses  rose  to  fabulous  prices  when  Hong  Kong  got  on 
her  boom,  and  the  shrinkage  came  on  in  time  to  explode  the 
air-castles  and  bubbles  that  had  been  floated  on  paper.  This 
feature  of  its  eventful  history  was  so  American-like  I  had 
no  further  doubts  about  the  influence  our  modern  civiliza- 
tion was  exerting  upon  the  Celestials. 

The  approaches  to  Hong  Kong  from  the  sea  are  among 
the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  of  any  city  in  the  world. 
The  business  portion  lies  along  the  Bund  a  mile  or  less  ; 
while  the  Europeans  live  in  pretty  bungalows,  surrounded 
by  lovely  gardens,  on  terraced  drives  and  walks  above. 
These  romantic  homes  are  reached  by  splendid  hard  roads, 
•winding  around  up  the  mountain,  and  long  flights  of  stone 
steps,  by  which  we  are  enabled  to  ascend  one  thousand  feet 
or  more.  The  view  of  the  harbor  and  shipping  below  was 
grand  beyond  description.  On  the  opposite  side  rose  the 
red  chalk  bluffs  of  the  main-land,  that  stretched  away  toward 
Macao,  thirty  miles  distant.  Above  me,  still  seven  hundred 
feet  higher,  floated  the  British  flag  over  a  battery  of  artil- 
lery that  could  rake  the  harbor  and  approaches  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Canton  River.  The  harbor  resembled  a  mir- 


From  Singapore  to  Hong  Kong.  461 

ror,  studded  with  great  ships  from  every  land  and  sea. 
The  Chinese  junks  and  sampans,  with  easy-flapping  sails, 
were  moving  leisurely  over  the  bay.  Boats  were  leaving 
for  Canton,  eighty  miles  distant,  while  great  steam-ships — 
floating  palaces — were  arriving  or  departing  for  Shanghai, 
Yokohama,  London,  San  Francisco,  New  York,  and  Liver- 
pool. More  than  two  thousand  vessels  leave  the  harbor 
every  year.  Hong  Kong  is  the  great  distributing  center  for 
the  mails  as  well  as  the  commerce  of  the  Orient.  Regular 
lines  of  mail-carriers  leave  here  every  month  for  Europe, 
Australia,  Manilla,  Japan,  and  San  Francisco.  The  enter- 
prise of  the  Western  World  is  mostly  felt  here  in  its  commer- 
cial marine.  The  great  Peninsular  and  Oriental  line,  that 
girdles  half  its  circuit,  touches  here  twice  a  month ;  while  the 
French  Messageries,  another  great  company,  under  charter  of 
the  French  Government,  ply  between  Marseilles  and  Yoko- 
hama, touching  at  Hong  Kong,  en  route  to  Saigon,  Singapore, 
Batavia,  Ceylon,  and  Indian  ports,  both  ways,  with  their 
magnificent  ships.  These  two  great  rival  lines  then  carry  the 
mails  for  their  respective  Governments,  connecting  at  all  the 
China  ports  with  steamers  of  the  Pacific  (United  States)  Mail 
Steam-ship  Company  for  San  Francisco.  A  letter  started  at 
Talbotton,  Ga.,  will  go  around  the  world  without  missing  a 
connection.  The  harbor  is  land-locked,  which  to  a  great 
extent  protects  it  against  the  typhoons  of  the  China  Sea. 
But  a  few  years  ago  thousands  of  sampans,  with  their  occu- 
pants, and  even  larger  vessels,  were  blown  on  the  shore. 
There  was  great  destruction  of  life  and  property  resulting 
from  this  storm. 

Hong  Kong  is  at  the  upper  end,  as  Singapore  is  situated 
at  the  lower  or  southern  end  of  the  China  Sea.  Since 
our  departure  from  the  latter  city  we  have  risen  twenty  de- 
grees north  of  the  equator.  Still  it  is  extremely  hot  in  Hong 
Kong.  In  all  the  European  offices,  banks,  etc.,  the  punka 


462  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

is  going,  and  was  even  kept  in  motion  on  the  "Hydaspes" 
during  our  recent  voyage.  Here  the  thermometer  registers 
ninety  degrees  in  the  shade  and  one  hundred  degrees  in  the 
Bun.  In  front  of  our  wharf  stand  the  jinrikishas  in  great 
numbers.  When  you  approach  them  the  men  square  around 
their  little  carriages  and  throw  up  their  hands  like  the  cab- 
men. For  ten  cents  you  can  have  your  pick  to  any  part 
of  the  city.  The  sampans  charge  the  same  price  in  the  har- 
bor. On  shore  there  are  only  five  miles  of  driving,  which 
can  be  easily  done  in  an  hour.  The  well-developed,  muscu- 
lar coolie,  sometimes  six  feet  tall,  lifts  his  heels  and  trots 
like  a  horse.  A  drive  to  Happy  Valley  Cemetery  (English 
burial-grounds)  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world. 
The  avenue  is  macadamized  and  smooth  as  a  marble  floor. 
The  jinrikisha  coolie  wears  a  loin-cloth  and  a  bamboo  hat, 
with  feet  sometimes  bare  and  at  other  times  protected  by 
cloth  shoes.  As  soon  as  you  take  your  seat  he  is  gone.  He 
does  not  scare  or  run  away,  and  does  not  even  shy,  like  the 
horses  do.  When  he  comes  to  a  crossing  he  looks  behind 
to  see  if  the  wheels  are  on  securely.  He  works  tandem  or 
alone,  and  it  does  not  matter  where  you  want  to  stop,  or 
how  long — he  obeys  your  command.  The  dog-carts,  drawn 
by  horses,  and  the  sedan-chairs  (palanquins  of  India),  borne 
on  men's  shoulders,  have  nearly  disappeared  from  the  streets 
in  competition  with  the  jinrikishas. 

I  find  a  new  fruit  among  others.  It  is  the  lychee.  It  is 
larger  than  the  plum,  with  a  reddish  rough  skin.  It  is  deli- 
cately flavored,  having  a  clear  stone.  When  dried  the  fruit 
is  said  to  rival  figs.  The  mandarin,  seedless  or  glove  orange, 
and  Japan  plum  (biwa)  are  abundant  and  very  cheap. 

I  watched  a  Cninaman  fishing  on  the  quay.  He  was  the 
very  embodiment  of  patience.  He  had  a  broad,  baggy  net, 
which  hung  from  four  corners  of  a  bamboo  frame  resembling 
a  quilting-frame.  This  he  let  down  in  the  water  by  four 


From  Singapore  to  Hong  Kong.  463 

cords,  from  each  corner,  tied  on  the  end  of  a  pole.  He 
threw  crumbs  of  bread  over  the  submerged  net,  and  after 
awhile  drew  it  up  very  carefully  with  its  contents.  There 
were  many  small  fish  in  it. 

The  Bund  is  the  great  thoroughfare,  running  along  the 
water.  From  this  grand  boulevard  radiate  smaller  streets, 
running  back  a  short  distance  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
Along  these  you  can  study  the  Chinese  manufactures.  Bam- 
boo is  used  for  every  thing  in  China,  like  the  palm  is  used 
in  Ceylon.  From  it  they  make  their  chairs,  beds,  baskets, 
fans,  lounges,  and  other  useful  articles.  The  English  have 
several  large  sugar-refineries  here,  while  the  natives  along 
the  Bund  are  engaged  in  milling  rough  rice.  These  little 
mills  are  a  curiosity.  I  was  cordially  received  in  one  by 
the  manager,  who  handed  me  a  cup  of  tea.  Tea  is  kept  hot 
on  tap  all  the  time.  It  is  furnished  the  mill  hands  free, 
without  milk  or  sugar.  In  the  mill  I  examined  there  were 
a  dozen  or  more  pestles  in  motion.  There  was  an  iron  mor- 
tar to  each  pestle  that  held  about  a  bushel  of  rough  rice. 
The  pestle  was  of  stone,  inserted  at  right  angles  in  the  end 
of  a  long  lever  that  worked  in  a  bearing  about  midway,  the 
lever  extending  back  several  feet.  It  was  so  nearly  bal- 
anced that  all  the  coolie  had  to  do  was  to  throw  the  weight 
of  his  body  first  on  one  foot  and  then  on  the  other,  to  keep 
the  pestle  in  motion.  After  an  hour's  pounding  the  rice  was 
fanned  by  hand,  separating  the  chaff  from  the  grain,  then 
pounded  again,  the  flour  being  separated  by  a  screen  and 
the  rice  polished  by  hand,  with  the  chaff.  This  was  done 
by  mixing  the  pounded  rice  with  the  chaff  in  a  bamboo 
sieve,  which  was  shaken  by  hand.  Jt  is  sold  at  one  to  three 
cents  per  pound,  and  is  the  staple  article  of  food  for  the 
millions  of  China. 

The  women  and  men  dress  so  nearly  alike  in  Hong  Kong 
that  I  mistook  two  good-looking  girls  on  board  of  our  ship 


464 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


CHIN-CHIN. 

for  boys.  They  were  all  dressed  in  loose  coats  and  baggy 
trousers.  The  men  wore  cues,  which  was  their  most  distin- 
guishing mark;  while  the  women  combed  back  their  jet 
black  hair  in  solid  waves,  their  features  betraying  more  del- 
icacy of  expression.  They  are  fond  of  primping  and  paint- 
ing their  cheeks  red.  Some  of  the  girls  affect  great  mod- 
esty. I  heard  they  made  excellent  wives,  according  to  the 
testimony  of  an  old  Englishman,  who  had  married  one  of 
them.  He  told  me  he  had  a  number  of  children,  "  and  a 
more  devoted  wife  or  mother  he  had  never  seen."  I  pre- 
sumed the  veteran  Englishman  was  a  widower  when  his  last 
nuptials  were  celebrated. 


Some  Account  of  China.  466 

Some  of  the  Chinese  are  very  sociable  people.  When  you 
meet  one  he  "  chin-chins  "  good  wishes  to  you.  He  shakes 
his  own  fists  at  you  instead  of  your  hand.  The  first  ques- 
tion asked  is,  "How  old  are  you?"  This  is  the  highest 
mark  of  respect  one  Chinaman  ever  pays  another,  as  a  rev- 
erence for  age  is  shown  by  all  classes.  In  return  it  is  eti- 
quette for  you  to  inquire  his  age.  This  seems  to  be  the 
custom  particularly  among  the  official  and  literary  classes 
of  China.  I  suppose,  of  course,  the  ladies  are  excluded  from 
the  observance  of  these  formalities.  I  know  it  would  not 
be  etiquette  to  make  such  inquiries  in  Georgia. 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

SOME  ACCOUNT  OF  CHINA  —  CHRONOLOGICAL,  HISTORICAL, 
AND  GEOGRAPHICAL. 


proper  is  divided  into  eighteen  provinces,  eight 
\J  of  which  lie  south  of  the  great  Yang-tse-kiang  River. 
It  has  a  coast-line  stretching  from  Cochin  China  to  Japan 
and  Corea,  nearly  three  thousand  miles.  It  is  about  fifteen 
hundred  to  two  thousand  miles  broad.  The  entire  domain 
—  including  Corea,  Manchuria  on  the  north-east,  Turkis- 
tan  and  Thibet  on  the  west,  and  Mongolia  in  the  north- 
west —  is  a  third  larger  or  nearly  twice  as  great  as  the 
United  States.  It  now  has  four  hundred  and  twenty  mill- 
ion inhabitants,  or  nearly  one-third  of  the  population  of 
the  whole  world. 

The  Chinese  call  themselves  Chung  Kwah,  or  natives  of 
the  Middle  Kingdom.  They  boast  of  the  greatest  and  most 
civilized  empire  on  earth.  "  It  is  hoary  with  age."  It  is 
antiquity  itself.  China  has  been  the  source  of  all  light,  the 
center  of  civilization,  refinement,  culture,  the  arts,  litera- 
ture, and  science,  for  thousands  of  years.  Her  emperors 
30 


466  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

claimed  a  divine  origin,  and  a  right  to  rule  from  the  re- 
motest ages.  The  country  was  in  a  high  state  of  civiliza- 
tion when  Europe  was  in  darkness,  even  before  the  civiliza- 
tion of  Greece  and  Rome  flourished  along  the  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean.  They  claim  an  unbroken  record  for  three 
thousand  years,  and  one  of  their  historians  goes  back  of  the 
flood.  Whang-ti  reigned  2758  B.C.,  or  four  hundred  and 
ten  years  antecedent  to  this  event,  according  to  Usher. 
Another  historian,  Meng-tse,  gives  a  full  account  of  the 
flood — describing  the  country  fresh  as  a  desert,  the  lowlands 
covered  with  water  and  the  hills  with  trees.  The  great 
Yau  ditched  off  the  land,  cleared  the  forest,  and  tied  up  his 
ihair  for  a  bath.  Now  all  the  coolies  do  theirs  up  the  same 
way  in  a  coil  behind.  The  deluge,  as  calculated  by  Usher, 
was  fifty  years  earlier  than  this  overflowing  of  Northern 
China. 

While  much  of  this  antique  history  of  the  Chinese  reads 
like  fiction,  their  records  seem  much  more  trustworthy  than 
the  early  annals  of  Greece,  remarks  a  late  writer. 

The  Great  Yu  seems  to  have  been  the  De  Lesseps  of  his 
times.  He  reigned  2205  B.C.,  and  did  what  his  predeces- 
sor, Yau,  could  not  do — he  drained  the  lowlands  and  kept 
out  the  floods.  Seventeen  hundred  years  later  Confucius 
eulogizes  this  great  sovereign.  A  monument  that  relates 
to  the  above  notable  events  has  been  found  in  the  Province 
of  Shensi,  with  inscriptions  cut  in  solid  stone,  supposed  to 
be  as  old  as  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt  or  the  Obelisk  of  Heli- 
opolis.  During  the  reign  of  Yu,  Abraham  was  called,  and 
Joseph's  elevation  to  the  throne  of  Egypt  occurred.  This 
reign  lasted  four  hundred  and  thirty-nine  years ;  the  Shang 
dynasty,  succeeding  1766  B.C.,  afterward  lasted  six  hun- 
dred and  forty-four  years.  Then  the  exodus  of  the  Israel- 
ites, their  settlement  in  Palestine,  judgeship  of  Gideon,  Sam- 
uel, and  Samson,  and  other  contemporaneous  events,  took 


Some  Account  of  China.  467 

place.  The  Chau  dynasty  began  with  Wu  Wang  and  con- 
tinued eight  hundred  and  seventy-three  years  under  thirty 
monarchs,  down  to  249  B.C. — the  longest  of  any  record  in 
history.  It  appears  that  before  this  period  the  Chinese  suf- 
fered the  loss  of  a  valuable  library  that  contained  books  of 
ancient  history,  with  the  loss  of'many  lives  of  the  literati,  by 
order  of  the  Tsin  dynasty.  This  monarch  seemed  jealous 
of  the  scholars'  devotion  to  these  ancient  books  rather  than 
paying  all  their  homage  to  the  history  of  his  reign.  Some 
books  not  in  the  library,  that  related  to  medicine,  divina- 
tion, husbandry,  etc. ,  escaped  in  private  hands.  These  were 
reproduced  in  new  works,  and  history  was  perpetuated. 
This  great  conflagration  of  ancient  literature  took  place 
212  B.C.  From  Tsin  comes  the  word  "chin,"  or  "sin." 
At  this  time  Isaiah,  looking  with  prophetic  vision  to  the 
coming  of  the  Messiah,  wrote  this  sentence:  "Behold,  these 
shall  come  from  far;  and,  lo,  these  from  the  north  and  from 
the  west;  and  these  from  the  land  of  Sinim  [China]." 
(Isa.  xlix.  12.)  It  seems  that  the  true  record  of  China  goes 
back  nearly  to  the  time  of  Abraham. 

China  was  cultivating  letters,  love  of  art  and  science,  at 
this  time,  while  the  Egyptians  were  worshiping  crocodiles, 
birds,  reptiles,  and  insects.  The  Greeks  knew  of  the  Chi- 
nese 250  B.C.,  as  Strabo  informs  us.  At  that  remote  period 
cotton  was  planted  in  China,  which  Strabo  said  was  at  the 
eastern  end  of  the  world.  It  was  so  located  on  the  map  of 
Eratosthenes.  This  beautiful  quatrain  is  from  the  works  of 
this  Greek  scholar,  translated  by  Dionysius : 

Nor  flocks  nor  herds  the  distant  seres*  tend ; 
But  from  the  flowers  that  in  the  desert  bloom, 

Tinctured  with  every  varying  hue,  they  cull 
The  glossy  down,  and  card  it  for  the  loom. 

China  furnished  the  Koman  ladies  silk  for  their  robes 
*  Seres  is  the  Greek  word  for  worms  which  produced  silk. 


468  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

when  Rome  was  at  the  height  of  its  power.  This  was  car- 
ried by  caravans  over  the  steppes  of  Tartary  and  the  vast 
regions  of  Central  Asia,  observes  Mr.  Coffin.  There  was 
but  little  communication  from  the  first  century  down  to  the 
year  1624,  two  hundred  and  sixty  years  ago. 

The  Dutch  settled  on  Formosa  and  acquainted  the  Euro- 
peans with  the  use  of  tea.  In  1666  Holland  obtained  per- 
mission to  trade  at  Canton,  Ningpo,  and  other  ports;  but 
the  Chinese  officials  were  so  haughty  and  exacting  it  was 
with  difficulty  that  intercourse  was  kept  up.  The  East 
India  Company  opened  upr  trade  for  England,  which  com- 
menced in  1637.  In  1795  the  English  Government  sent 
Lord  Macartney  as  an  embassador  to  negotiate  a  treaty  of 
commerce,  with  the  privilege  to  establish  a  depot  near  Can- 
ton; but  the  Chinese  indignantly  refused  the  "red-bristled 
barbarian  tribute-bearer,"  as  Lord  Macartney  was  styled  in 
the  published  official  records.  It  was  the  custom  to  offer 
tribute  to  the  Chinese  Government,  which  they  considered 
due  them  for  the  privileges  of  trading  with  them.  Trade 
between  the  United  States  and  Canton  commenced  in  1786; 
but  it  is  only  within  the  past  forty  years,  since  the  Opium 
War,  ports  have  been  opened,  treaties  made  and  diplomatic 
relations  established  by  foreign  countries  with  China.  As 
late  as  1815  Lord  Amherst  was  sent  by  Her  Majesty's  Gov- 
ernment to  negotiate  a  treaty  of  commerce  with  the  Govern- 
ment at  Pekin.  After  months  of  weary  sea-travel  by  sail 
and  a  fatiguing  journey  overland,  he  was  forced  to  return 
from  his  fruitless  errand.  The  failure  of  this  mission  re- 
sulted from  a  refusal  of  the  English  embassador  to  observe 
the  court  ceremonials,  consisting  of  prostrations  and  bows. 
Lord  Amherst  assured  the  Pekin  authorities  he  would  pay 
the  same  homage  to  the  Emperor  as  he  did  to  his  Queen; 
but  this  was  not  satisfactory.  It  was  claimed  that  the  Em- 
peror had  a  divine  origin. 


Some  Account  of  China.  469 

China  had  built  high  walls  around  her  cities,  excluded 
from  the  whole  world  for  three  thousand  years.  She  de- 
nied all  intercourse  with  other  nations,  growing  self-conceit- 
ed and  arrogant  over  a  venerated  history  no  other  people 
could  boast.  She  cultivated  cotton,  silk,  and  tea;  her  por- 
celain was  unrivaled,  while  the  fabrics  of  her  antique 
looms  had  startled  all  the  courts  of  Europe.  China  had 
rich  mines  of  coal,  iron,  tin,  copper,  and  even  gold,  unde- 
veloped— and  undeveloped  still. 

Marco  Polo,  the  first  European  who  had  ever  visited  the 
far  East,  had  become  a  favorite  with  the  court  at  Pekin 
early  in  the  thirteenth  century.  Keturning  overland  to 
Europe,  he  carried  back  the  account  of  his  visit  to  the 
country,  its  beauty,  its  immense  wealth,  treasures  of  the 
field  and  the  loom.  All  Europe  became  elated  over  the 
marvelous  stories  of  the  eminent  traveler.  Century  after 
century  rolled  by,  but  China  still  refused  to  open  her  doors. 
In  1840  the  British  lion  began  to  lash  his  tail ;  no  doubt 
the  English  Government  had  become  worried  over  repeated 
efforts  she  had  made  for  friendly  intercourse,  but  as  often 
refused.  At  last  she  grew  indignant  over  some  alleged 
provocation  offered  by  China,  and  sent  several  of  her  big 
bull-dogs  around  to  Canton,  Shanghai,  Amoy,  Suchow,  and 
Tientsin  to  do  a  little  barking.  English  men-of-war  opposite 
every  town!  "What  you  got  in  heare?"  thundered  John 
Bull.  "  None  of  your  business,"  replied  the  man  of  "  divine 
origin."  Boom,  boom,  boom!  "Thunder  and  lightning! 
the  barbarians  are  at  our  very  doors!"  exclaimed  Johnny. 
"What  do  you  want  here?"  More  cannonading.  The 
doors  are  opened ;  John  Bull  steps  in  with  papers  from  Her 
Majesty's  Government.  "Your  ports  must  be  opened,  com- 
mercial relations  established,  and  embassadors  exchanged. 
We  want  your  tea,  silks,  porcelain,  and  other  manufactured 
goods.  You  must  take  our  opium,  cottons,  hardware,  and 


470  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

admit  our  missions  and  the  Lord's  Bible;  we  will  sell  you 
our  ships,  guns,  powder,  build  your  telegraphs  and  railroads, 
if  you  want  us.  We  are  to  be  good  friends  in  the  future." 
But  China  proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  unreconciled  con- 
verts. In  1856  the  allied  fleet  went  out  again,  and  cannons 
boomed  along  China's  extended  sea-coast.  Once  more  her 
ports  opened.  Nearly  or  quite  every  city  along  her  sea- 
board now  trades  with  foreign  nations.  Probably  there  is 
no  section,  except  in  Thibet,  where  a  foreign  missionary  (Can- 
not travel  with  comparative  safety. 

Nature  has  kindly  cast  the  Chinese  nation  in  a  gentle, 
pacific  mold.  They  have  had  their  wars,  but  compared 
with  the  Western  nations  these  wars  have  been  few.  The 
Taeping  rebellion  of  our  day  had  its  origin  in  the  brigandage 
of  an  idle  and  leprous  soldiery,  who  sought  to  live  at  the 
expense  of  the  honest  producer.  But  the  pressure  of  the 
outside  world  is  forcing  China  to  establish  arsenals;  to 
build  ships  and  guns  for  sea;  schools  to  translate  books  of 
foreign  languages  into  her  various  dialects.  Through  this 
new  medium  her  people  will  be  enabled  to  study  our  history, 
the  civilization,  literature,  science,  and  philosophy  of  the 
Western  World.  She  employs  the  best  European  and 
American  scholars  to  translate  her  books,  and  skillful  in- 
structors of  Germany  and  England  to  drill  her  soldiery. 
In  the  struggle  now  going  on,  France  has  met  a  worthier 
foe  in  Tonquin  than  she  ever  dreamed  of.  The  Western 
nations  are  teaching  China  how  to  fight.  A  nation  of  arti- 
sans, manufacturers,  and  shop-keepers  of  wonderful  thrift 
and  industry  must  now  become  a  nation  of  soldiers  as  well. 


From  Hong  Kong  to  Canton.  471 

CHAPTER  XLVI. 

FROM  HONG  KONG  TO  CANTON — BOAT  LIFE  AND  SIGHT- 
SEEING IN  CANTON. 

WE  wanted  to  see  an  essentially  characteristic  Chinese 
city,  and  we  could  not  have  selected  a  better  repre- 
sentative than  Canton.  It  is  eighty  miles,  up  a  strong 
current,  by  two  magnificent  lines  of  steam-boats  that  run 
in  opposition  to  each  other.  The  fare  had  been  reduced  as 
low  as  one  dollar,  but  we  paid  three  dollars  each  way.  Sir 
John  and  I  were  the  only  first-class  passengers,  while  below, 
on  the  first  deck,  there  were  seven  hundred  Chinese,  many 
of  whom  were  the  elite  of  society.  They  paid  thirty  cents 
each  for  the  same  passage.  Our  boat  was  a  magnificent 
side-wheeler,  two  or  three  decks  high,  purely  American  in 
every  feature,  even  to  the  officers  who  commanded  it.  The 
mouth  of  the  Canton  Eiver,  not  far  from  Hong  Kong,  re- 
sembled an  arm  of  the  sea.  There  were  many  junks  and 
boats  dotting  the  vast  expanse  before  us ;  while  over  to  our 
left,  some  distance  away,  gleamed  Macao,  which  for  pictur- 
esqueness  and  beauty  of  situation  surpasses  even  the  city 
of  Hong  Kong.  In  the  summer  it  becomes  a  kind  of  sani- 
tarium for  the  Europeans  of  the  latter  city.  Macao  was 
among  the  earliest  European  settlements  in  China,  made  by 
the  Portuguese  (to  whom  it  still  belongs)  more  than  three 
hundred  years  ago.  Like  Hong  Kong  for  smuggling 
opium,  Macao  has  occupied  as  unenviable  a  position  for  its 
long  years  of  revolting  traffic  in  human  flesh.  Horrible 
stories  are  related  of  the  "  coolie  trade"  which  the  Portuguese, 
aided  by  Chinamen,  have  carried  on  as  defiantly  of  law. 
The  chief  source  of  supply  is  from  the  numerous  gam- 
bling-hells in  China,  where  the  Chinese,  having  lost  every 
thing  else,  stake  their  bodies  for  a  small  sum  of  money 
advanced  them  by  the  gamblers.  The  gamblers  then  sell 


472  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

them  for  twenty  or  thirty  dollars  to  the  barracoon,  or  dealer, 
who  doubles  his  money.  I  have  seen  these  coolies  myself, 
in  Cuba,  brought  from  this  very  port ;  while  others  go  on 
the  Pacific  coast  to  Peru,  delivered  there  at  a  cost  of  two 
hundred  dollars  apiece. 

Entering  the  saloon  for  breakfast,  we  discovered  the  front 
of  the  boat  converted  into  an  armory.  There  were  pistols, 
swords,  arms,  and  guns  of  various  descriptions.  I  learned 
this  precaution  against  attack  had  been  taken  in  conse- 
quence of  a  robbery  of  thirty  thousand  dollars  in  specie, 
some  time  ago,  by  a  lot  of  Chinese  pirates  who  had  taken 
passage  on  a  boat  up  the  river.  The  money  was  never  re- 
covered. 

Our  breakfast  was  verily  charming.  Such  fruits,  such 
viands,  such  delicious  ham  and  eggs,  butter,  coffee,  and 
biscuit,  smothered  chicken,  broiled  fish,  steak,  and  even 
waffles,  bewildered  us.  The  lychees,  oranges,  and  bananas 
were  all  familiar;  but  here  were  hot  biscuits  and  waffles, 
with  Goshen  butter,  we  had  been  dreaming  about.  Purely 
American !  Even  sugar-drips  sirup,  to  float  the  buckwheats 
in.  The  American  boat  had  introduced  some  of  the  modes 
of  thought  and  habits  of  living  into  this  remote  empire. 
Even  the  Chinaman  had  been  taught  the  subtle  art  of  our 
cooking. 

I  felt  an  honorable  pride  in  directing  the  attention  of 
my  companion  to  those  waffles.  He  appeared  a  little  curi- 
ous to  know  what  they  were,  as  the  waffle  is  essentially 
an  American  institution.  His  high  appreciation  of  this 
American  civilizer  gave  me  renewed  assurances  of  his  in- 
creasing good  opinion  of  our  country. 

Fifty  miles  up  the  river  we  pass  under  the  frowning  guns 
of  the  celebrated  Bogue  Forts  that  were  destroyed  by  the 
allied  European  navies  in  1856.  The  batteries  command 
the  river,  from  lofty  heights,  on  cur  right,  which  the  Chi- 


(472)  A  VIEW  AMONG  THE  HILLS  NEAR  MACAO,  CHINA. 


From  Hong  Kong  to  Canton.  ,473 

nese  are  now  repairing  in  anticipation  of  bombardment  by 
French  gun-boats.  The  river  is  a  mile  or  more  wide  at 
this  point.  A  battery  near  the  water's  edge,  five  hun- 
dred feet  below  the  frowning  battlements,  is  practicing  with 
shells.  One  has  fallen  a  mile  below  and  ricochetted  a  great 
distance  without  explosion.  A  few  days  ago  these  amateur 
gunners  accidentally  threw  a  shell  into  a  neighboring  vil- 
lage, killing  many  of  the  inhabitants. 

We  pass  through  Lintin  Bay,  curving  into  the  Pearl 
Kiver  at  Whampoa,  which  is  really  the  port  of  Canton.  A 
number  of  foreign  vessels,  European  and  American,  are 
here  loading  with  tea.  Thus  far  the  rich  alluvial  plains 
along  the  river  have  been  cultivated  in  rice,  which  has  been 
transplanted  from  beds  into  rows  and  flooded,  much  like  it 
is  done  in  Carolina  and  Georgia.  We  have  seen  lychee 
and  orange  trees  growing  as  we  approach  Canton.  Among 
these  were  peach-trees  in  bloom. 

A  tall  eight-story  stone  pagoda  towered  away  on  our 
left,  near  the  Bogue  Forts,  in  melancholy  grandeur.  There 
were  lichens,  and  even  bushes,  growing  out  of  the  interstices, 
near  its  ancient  summit.  These  old  monuments,  or  temples 
are  going  into  decay.  We  have  passed  many  salt  junks, 
with  flaming  dragons  painted  on  their  sides  and  eyes  on 
their  bows,  loaded  or  empty. 

Salt  (as  in  India)  is  a  Government  monopoly  in  China. 
It  is  imported  from  Tonquin,  and  inspected  by  the  man- 
darins, who  get  a  good  squeeze  at  it,  much  like  the  whisky 
inspectors  do  the  revenues  in  America.  It  seems  like  all 
the  vegetables  cultivated  in  Georgia  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
market-gardens  near  Canton.  The  Chinese  are  skillful  in 
artificial  fish  culture,  hatching  eggs  in  ovens,  rearing  ducks 
on  the  river-banks  and  lakes,  of  which,  they  have  had  a 
knowledge  for  thousands  of  years.  They  construct  little 
lakes  or  ponds  along  the  great  streams,  turn  the  water  in, 


474  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

and  raise  carp.  These,  with  other  varieties,  are  shipped  to 
Hong  Kong  alive,  in  large  tanks  of  water,  which  we  saw 
empty  on  the  "Hankow"  coming  up.  Among  the  Chi- 
nese, eels  are  highly  valued  for  their  delicious  flavor,  and, 
like  the  carp,  are  extensively  cultivated  for  market.  The 
carp  must  have  originally  gone  from  here  to  Europe,  and 
thence  to  the  United  States.  There  is  no  doubt  about  the 
gold-fish  (a  species  of  carp)  having  been  first  exported  from 
China. 

Before  our  aristocratic  passengers  disembarked  we  passed 
around  on  a  grand  review.  Many  of  them  were  on  dress- 
parade.  Several  of  the  girls,  with  their  tiny  feet  peeping 
out  below  silk  robes,  appeared  very  much  embarrassed  at 
our  approach.  I  thought  I  saw  blushes  hiding  in  their 
cheeks.  The  men  were  smoking  or  talking,  sprawled  about 
on  mats  they  had  spread  upon  the  floor.  A  number  were 
throwing  dice,  playing  cards,  chess,  etc.  The  ladies  sat 
around  in  small  tete-a-tete  groups  on  divans,  observing  the 
most  formal  etiquette  and  decorum.  Many  of  their  faces 
resembled  the  pictures  I  had  seen  on  fans.  In  the  center  of 
the  large  audience  stood  a  dignified  man,  with  ominous  glass- 
es on,  as  for  size,  reading  for  their  entertainment  from  one 
of  the  Chinese  classics.  It  related  to  the  history  and  won- 
derful achievements  of  the  Government  in  the  past,  I  was 
told.  His  audience  appeared  to  be  absorbed  in  the  various 
pastimes,  paying  the  strictest  attention  to  their  games  rather 
than  the  lecturer,  who  was  himself  about  as  boisterous  as  a 
French  Deputy  or  United  States  Congressman.  A  striking 
figure  I  must  not  fail  to  mention  was  the  man  with  a 
cap  on  and  long  finger-nails  on  his  third  and  fourth  fin- 
gers. He  must  be  an  eccentric  genius ;  but  then  we  have 
seen  such  characters  in  our  own  country — people  wearing 
long  finger-nails  and  long  hair.  It  is  a  mere  matter  of 
taste,  I  suppose. 


From  Hong  Kong  to  Canton. 


475 


CHINESE  ECCENTRICITIES. 

In  the  distance  we  discover  another  pagoda  and  a  few 
square  towers  rising  out  of  a  wilderness  of  tile  roofs  that 
present  an  almost  solid  surface.*  It  is  the  great  city  of 
Canton.  Some  distance  in  the  rear  are  the  White  Cloud 

*  These  square-top  stone  or  brick  fire-proof  warehouses  are  to  be 
seen  in  all  the  large  cities  of  China.  They  are  the  pawn-brokers* 
shops.  Here  rent  is  paid  on  valuable  articles  of  clothing,  jewelry, 
money,  etc.,  depcsite'd,  or  even  money  advanced  on  the  article  held 
in  pawn  until  it  is  redeemed  by  the  depositor  or  owner.  The  fre- 
quency of  fires  and  consequent  loss  of  valuables  in  all  wooden  towns 
and  cities  have  necessitated  the  erection  of  pawn-brokers'  shops.  The 
business  is  a  very  lucrative  one,  in  which  the  owners  generally  amass 
great  fortunes. 


476  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Mountains,  that  must  have  their  sacred  history  and  tradi- 
tional lore  identified  with  some  thrilling  events.  We  pass 
a  little  island  with  a  small  battery  on  it,  and  before  us  is 
one  of  the  strangest  sights  in  all  the  world — a  hundred 
thousand  people  living  in  boats !  We  steam  up  the  center  of 
miles  and  miles  of  boats — sampans.  They  are  tied  up  or 
anchored,  or  moving  about  on  errands,  loaded  with  their 
living  freight.  In  each  boat  you  see  a  little  awning  over- 
head— bamboo  matting — a  little  cabin  at  one  end,  and  the 
kitchen,  with  its  tiny  stove  or  brazier,  at  the  other.  Every 
boat  is  crowded  with  children.  There  does  n't  seem  to  be  any 
sour  old  maids  or  crabbed  bachelors  in  this  flotilla,  nurs- 
ing perpetual  solitude  or  their  own  pettish,  cranky  ways  to 
idolatry.  Everybody  is  busy  here  raising  children,  ambi- 
tious that  their  names  shall  descend  perpetually  to  the  latest 
generations  yet  unborn.  If  a  baby  falls  overboard — and 
there  are  thousands  of  them  ("prettiest  tings  ever  was") — 
the  anxious  mother  rushes  to  the  bow  to  find  her  tenth 
bantling  with  life-preserver  on  floating  about  in  the  water. 
"The  baby  has  fallen  out  the  portico!  run,  sis,  and  bring 
the  hook  er  my  crook  here."  This  is  a  long  pole  with  a  catcher, 
or  hook,  on  the  end  of  it.  She  reaches  out,  fastens  hold  of 
the  little  brat,  and  he  is  elevated  in  a  minute.  It  is  discov- 
ered that  nothing  got  wet  except  the  life-preserver.  That 
was  all  the  clothes  he  had  on.  The  Chinaman  raises  his  pig- 
eons, hens,  and  even  ducks,  on  his  boat.  You  see  the  coops 
setting  on  the  ample  decks.  You  hear  the  chanticleer  crow 
amid  stream.  The  hens  lay  and  cackle  like  other  hens, 
raising  their  little  broods  on  the  floating  barn-yard.  The 
ducks  can't  stay  aboard  all  the  time — they  must  go  out  to 
swim;  but  at  night  every  duck  comes  home.  Then  there 
are  boats  set  apart  specially  for  raising  ducks  after  they 
have  been  hatched  by  the  ovens.  The  master  or  mistress 
soon  learns  the  proper  quack  by  which  the  ducklings  are 


From.  Hong  Kong  to  Canton.  477 

controlled.  They,  too,  are  permitted  to  swim  occasionally 
through  the  day  until  they  are  ready  for  market.  At  night 
the  hindmost  duck  always  gets  a  drubbing  for  his  tardiness 
in  getting  on  board.  One  thousand  birds  may  be  tended  by 
one  man  and  raised  in  this  way.  The  women  and  older 
children  generally  row  the  boats  in  the  Pearl  River.  The 
men  go  ashore ;  but  the  children  are  born  on  the  boats,  and 
often  their  mothers  have  never  been  on  land.  Land  is  dear 


DUCK  BOAT. 

and  life  is  cheap.  Those  unable  to  rent  a  garden  sometimes 
construct  little  floating  islands  or  rafts,  made  of  bamboo,  and 
cover  them  over  with  soil,  upon  which  they  grow  their  veg- 
etables. If  a  boat  gets  upset,  the  first  impulse  is  to  save  its 
contents,  and  then  the  occupants  afterward.  What  a  study 
is  this  boat  life  of  Canton !  No  other  city  in  this  vast  em- 
pire presents  such  as  striking  feature  in  contrast  to  its  pop- 
ulation on  shore.  We  have  gone  miles  through  scenes  de- 
scribed and  at  last  reach  our  wharf,  where  the  river  is 
comparatively  narrow.  What  a  dense  mass  of  yellow  faces 


478  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

are  upturned !  At  this  wharf  last  year  our  boat  was  com- 
pelled to  back  out  in  mid-stream  to  escape  being  burned  by 
an  infuriated  mob.  Some  difficulty  arose  between  an  Irish 
and  Chinese  employe"  of  the  "  Hankow,"  which  resulted  in  the 
Celestial  being  tossed  overboard.  Nearly  all  the  European 
houses  in  the  cantonment,  or  rear  of  the  city,  were  pillaged 
or  burned,  some  of  the  occupants  having  barely  escaped 
with  their  lives ;  for  which  the  Chinese  Government  was 
afterward  forced  to  pay  a  round  indemnity.  There  is  pos- 
sibly not  fifty  foreigners  in  Canton,  including  custom-house 
officers  (Americans)  and  agents  of  large  export  firms. 

We  had  scarcely  landed  before  the  Chinese  guide  had 
taken  possession  of  us.  One  time,  I  must  confess,  a  China- 
man was  graciously  welcomed.  We  had  just  encountered 
two  women  drummers  from  the  Canton  House,  we  had  luck- 
ily seen  coming  up  the  river,  who  importuned  us  to  stop  at 
the  finest  hotel  in  the  city.  The  women  had  trousers  on, 
and  we  were  afraid  of  them.  The  streets  were  densely 
packed,  jammed  solid ;  we  could  not  move.  Our  guide  was 
positive  we  would  never  see  any  thing  unless  we  employed 
chairs  (palanquins)  to  ride  in,  one  each  for  ourselves  and 
one  for  him.  The  whole  arrangement  looked  like  it  had 
been  "  cut  and  dried."  The  men  were  ready,  waiting  for 
us.  It  required  three  to  lift  me.  I  think  one  of  my  men 
had  the  bellows.  He  blowed  like  a  porpoise  before  he  had 
gone  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  The  streets  seemed  not  more  than 
ten  feet  wide,  and  the  houses,  built  of  very  small  brick,  rose 
two  to  three  stories  high.  There  was  a  man  at  every  door, 
women  and  children  above,  balcony  after  balcony  rising  to 
the  very  summits  in  front  of  every  opening.  Paper  win- 
dows and  turning  doors,  sign-boards  hanging  perpendicu- 
larly in  the  center  of  the  streets,  painted  in  gold,  vermilion, 
and  yellow  characters;  banners  streaming  from  cords  run- 
ning overhead ;  and  clothes  hanging  out  on  top  of  the  houses : 


From  Hong  Kong  to  Canton. 


479 


with  a  million  of  noisy  people  below  jammed  in  the  little 
streets  and  workshops — some  with  broad-brimmed  hats  and 
caps,  others  none  at  all ;  some  dressed  in  blue  blouses,  baggy 
pantaloons,  cloth  shoes  turned  up  at  the  end,  and  silk  robes ; 
and  a  half  million  of  coolies  dressed  in  pig-tails  and  loin- 
cloths, will  give  you  a  faint  idea  of  how  Canton  looks  to  a 
stranger.  How  the  stranger  looks  to  Canton  is  another 
thing. 

Our  guide  would  say,  "  Hi,  yi,"  then  the  people  would 
look  around  and  open  the  solid  ranks  so  our  coolies  could 
trot  along.  I  noticed  iron  bars  and  grates  in  front  of  many 


HOW  WE  BIDE  IN  CANTON. 

doors,  and  the  rooms  had  high  ceilings,  sometimes  frescoed 
or  beautifully  painted.  Some  of  the  shops  were  resplendent 
with  grotesque  paintings,  umbrellas,  fans,  balloons,  and  toys 
innumerable.  There  were  many  fine  crockery-houses,  where 
we  inspected  different  styles  of  porcelain  and  painted  ware. 
The  porcelain  is  made  at  the  works  in  the  country,  brought 
to  Canton  and  painted.  The  entire  city  is  engaged  in  man- 


480  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

ufacturing.  There  are  tens  of  thousands  of  little  shops  in 
which  you  will  see  from  one  to  a  half  dozen  men  at  work 
in  the  different  specialties  of  the  trade.  The  shops,  often 
of  wood  and  of  the  meanest  descriptions,  turn  out  the  most 
exquisite  works  of  art.  Here  you  will  see  the  Chinese  en- 
gaged in  the  plainest  and  most  intricate  workmanship ;  work 
in  silk,  feathers,  gold,  silver,  brass,  ivory,  metals,  glass,  em- 
broidery, painting,  carving,  weaving,  knitting,  spinning — all 
by  hand.  Here  were  silk  fans,  with  ivory  handles,  worth 
seventy  dollars  each,  exquisitely  painted  for  the  nobility. 
Then  there  were  fans  at  a  half  to  a  cent  each.  I  saw  a  man 
embroidering  peafowl,  pheasant,  and  paroquet  feathers  into 
the  most  tasteful  and  elaborate  designs.  There  were  fire- 
screens worth  fabulous  sums.  Most  lovely  panels  were 
deftly  needle-worked  and  painted  for  drawing-rooms ;  silk 
rugs,  curtains,  handkerchiefs,  cloths  in  beautiful  colors  for 
dresses,  scarfs,  etc.,  manufactured  on  the  most  ridiculous  and 
antique  looms.  I  saw  men  carving — in  bone,  camphor  and 
other  beautiful  woods — different  objects,  representing  ani- 
mals, birds,  sampans,  chairs,  and  various  pretty  things. 
Here  the  opium  and  several  kinds  of  pipes  are  made,  and 
elegant  silks  woven  that  adorn  the  palaces  of  Europe. 
Here  fire-crackers,  gongs,  and  the  comic  fans  for  the  Unit- 
ed States  trade  are  manufactured.  From  Canton  nearly 
all  our  China,  porcelain,  and  much  of  the  tea,  is  exported. 
Bamboo  is  used  for  almost  every  thing.  It  is  largely  culti- 
vated in  China.  The  camphor-tree,  from  which  our  gum  is 
obtained,  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  woods  manufactured. 
Let  us  see  something  else  now.  As  we  pass  through  the 
crowded  streets  we  hear  the  hucksters  crying,  with  open 
mouths,  their  fruits  and  wares  on  their  heads  or  suspended 
at  each  end  of  a  bamboo  pole — reminding  one  of  old  Aunt 
Sukie  (colored  lady)  in  Charleston  and  Savannah :  "  Here 
is  your  fresh  oysters !  oys-ters !  " 


From  Hong  Kong  to  Canton. 


481 


OYS-TERS. 


Some  carry  trays  on  their  heads,  fiill  of  onions,  lettuce, 
melons,  and  cabbages.  We  see  little  stalls  with  tubs  of  live 
eels  and  fish  for  sale:  dried  and  fresh  fish;  live  rats  and 
cats ;  chickens,  ducks,  turkeys,  eggs,  mutton,  shrimps,  chit- 
terlings, livers  and  gizzards  of  different  things  (I  never  stop 
to  ask  questions  in  Canton),  and  things  I  never  saw  before. 
For  variety  the  Chinese  market  can't  be  excelled.  Fish 
are  taken  out  of  tanks  alive  and  sold  as  you  buy  chickens — 
or,  if  preferred,  the  merchant  dresses  the  fish  to  order,  sav- 
ing the  head  and  entrails,  with  cockerel's  combs,  for  his 
poorer  customers. 

Here  comes  a  fellow  with  a  couple  of  live  pigs,  kicking  and 
squealing,  hanging  at  each  end  of  a  bamboo  pole.  "Stop! 
31 


482 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


come  here! "  says  our  guide.  We  advanced  as  cautiously  as 
possible,  for  we  smelt  something — in  fact,  we  had  smelt 
something  ever  since  we  reached  Canton.  But  the  odor  of 
"Araby  the  blest"  was  of  a  different  species — different  from 
any  thing  we  had  snuffed.  It  was  so  savory !  Well,  it  was 
a  dog — a  barbecued  animal,  with  head,  body,  feet,  and  even 
toes,  unmistakable!  He  was  roasted  as  brown  as  a  Berk- 
shire hog.  I  tried  a  hundred  times  to  imagine  what  he 
was  like.  I  began  on  roast  pig,  chicken,  turkey,  and  lamb ; 
then  I  tried  to  remember  other  roasted  animals  and  fowls, 
but  I  could  think  of  nothing.  The  discrepancy  grew  so 
great,  I  finally  concluded  he  smelled  like  a  barbecued  dog. 


HERE  WE  COME! 


You  see  gamblers,  fortune-tellers,  mountebanks,  just  as 
you  do  in  Christian  countries.  Old  China  street  is  a  famous 
place  for  astrologers,  and  quack  doctors  too.  People  poke 
their  heads  out  of  the  doors,  and  the  street-urchins  run  after 
the  "  foreign  devils,"  as  we  are  called ;  our  hats,  shoes  and 


Chinese  Gods  and  Religions.  483 

costumes  are  as  strange  to  them  as  theirs  are  to  us ;  we  are 
a  strange  people  to  each  other.  .  They  call  us  "  Western 
barbarians,"  and  we  call  them  heathens. 

The  Presbyterian,  Catholic,  Wesleyan,  and  London  mis- 
sionary societies  are  all  at  work  in  Canton.  The  Catholics 
have  been  here  several  hundred  years,  and  at  one  time 
came  near  getting  possession  of  the  Government;  but  in- 
trigue in  politics  was  the  final  cause*  of  their  expulsion. 
They  now  number  many  times  double  more  converts  than 
all  the  Christian  denominations  at  work  in  the  empire. 
The  Catholic  priests  dress  like  the  Chinese,  wearing  the  cue 
as  well.  I  could  scarcely  discriminate  between  them,  they 
looked  so  much  alike. 


CHAPTER  XLVII. 

TEMPLE  OF  THE  FIVE  HUNDRED  SAGES — EXECUTION 
GROUNDS — EXAMINATION  HALL,  ETC. 

ALL  the  religions  of  the  Chinese  may  be  comprehended 
in  three  systems:  Buddhist,  Confucian,  and  Tauist. 
The  Tauist  religion  is  the  oldest,  and  is  the  court  religion 
of  the  empire.  Buddhism  is  the  strongest  in  China,  form- 
ing the  basis  of  the  system  embraced  by  one-third  of  the 
human  race.  Confucianism,  or  reverence  to  parents,'  has 
assumed  the  form  of  ancestral  worship. 

The  Buddhist  monks  or  priests  live  in  the  temples,  hav- 
ing a  building  adjoining  to  cook  in,  another  to  sleep  in, 
eat  in,  etc. 

The  philosopher  Tau  was  born  just  before  Buddha,  600 
B.C.  He  was  a  Chinaman,  like  Confucius,  and  wrote  a 
remarkable  work  on  "  Truth  and  Virtue."  In  this  book, 
giving  a  description  of  the  creation,  he  advocates  the  the- 
ory of  an  Almighty  Ruler,  a  great  First  Cause,  evolved  in 
the  creation  of  the  universe  by  several  gradations.  "  He 


484  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

taught  that  thousands  of  years  before  the  creation  there  was 
an  unembodied  living  principle  existing  in  vacant  space." 
After  the  creation  of  man,  he  dropped  like  a  ball  from  heav- 
en into  the  open  mouth  of  a  virgin,  who  was  asleep.  Eighty 
years  after  that,  he  was  born  with  the  white  hairs  of  old 
age,  and  was  named  the  "Old  Boy."  This  is  the  deity- 
worship  called  Tau.  Here  are  some  pretty  lines  dedicated 
to  this  god,  by  an  ol'd  king  of  the  Sung  dynasty,  about  one 
thousand  years  ago : 

Great  and  most  excellent  Tau, 

Not  created,  self-existent ; 

From  eternities  to  eternities, 

Antecedent  to  the  earth  and  heaven, 

Like  all-pervading  light 

Continuing  through  eternity; 

Who  gave  instruction  to  Confucius  in  the  east, 

Who  called  into  existence  Buddha  .in  the  west; 

Director  of  all  kings; 

Parent  of  all  sages; 

Originator  of  all  religions; 

Mystery  of  mysteries. 

Many  of  the  Tauist  and  Buddhist  gods  seem  related — for 
instance,  the  medicine  and  thunder  gods,  to  whom  prayers 
are  offered.  One  of  the  Tauist  gods  is  the  national  em- 
blem on  the  flag  of  China,  the  dragon.  He  rules  the  clouds, 
lakes,  oceans,  and  storms. 

As  we  shall  directly  carry  you  into  the  temple  of  the 
"  Five  Hundred  Sages,"  I  present  illustrations  of  the  trans- 
migration or  transformation  theories  of  the  Buddhist  re- 
ligion and  a  mild  picture  of  a  Buddhist  hell. 

Here  is  a  picture  representing  future  life,  showing  the 
transmigration  of  souls :  "A  boy  is  changed  to  a  dog ;  one 
man  has  horns  growing  from  his  forehead,  his  feet  and 
hands  are  changing  to  hoofs,  a  tail  coming  behind — he  is 
changing  into  a  bull;  a  third,  to  an  ass — head  and  ears 


Chinese  Gods  and  Religions. 


485 


already  on."     This  last  "transmogrification"  is  not  at  all 
uncommon,  perhaps. 


"  TRANSMIGRATION." 

But  the  Buddhist  idea  of  hell  is  truly  horrible.  The  sin- 
ner is  supposed  to  be  cast  head  foremost  into  a  sort  of  grist- 
mill, and  ground  to  pieces — being  mocked  the  while  by  two 
demons  who  manage  the  execution  with  great  delight. 

In  the  "Temple  of  the  Five  Hundred  Sages,"  the  most 
notable  in  Canton,  there  are  life-size  gilded  figures  repre- 
senting the  disciples  of  Buddha.  Before  each  figure  is  an 
incense-burner,  where  offerings  are  made  daily. 

Another  temple  near  our  boat-wharf  was  profusely  deco- 
rated with  bunting  and  gilded  paper  lanterns  in  honor  of 
the  Tai-tou's  visit  to  Canton.  The  columns  supporting  the 
roof  of  the  temple  were  elaborately  carved  with  dragons  in  '• 
every  conceivable  design.  Across  the  river  was  another 
celebrated  temple,  the  Ocean  Banner,  which  we  did  not  see. 


486 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


This  is  on  the  island  of  Honan.  The  Examination  Hall 
and  Execution  Grounds  are  probably  the  two  most  interest- 
ing sights  to  a  foreigner. 

Near  the  city  wall  is  the  Examination  Hall,  a  building 
capable  of  accommodating  ten  thousand  students.  They  do 
not  come  here  for  study,  as  they  do  at  the  American  col- 
leges, but  for  examination.  On  their  arrival,  each  pupil  is 
assigned  to  a  stall  four  by  six,  with  a  little  window  for 
light,  a  table  to  write  on,  a  stool,  bedding,  etc.  He  carries 
his  provisions  in  with  him,  but  no  books.  He  is  locked  up 
for  twenty-four  or  forty-eight  hours,  as  the  case  may  be. 
Subjects  are  taken  from  the  four  books  of  the  ancient  clas- 


WE  DO   OUR  WORK  THOROUGHLY. 

sics  to  write  upon.  Three  essays  and  one  poem  are  to  be 
composed.  When  the  subjects  are  once  given  out  by  the 
commissioners  all  hands  go  to  work.  There  are  no  books, 
no  keys,  no  cheating  allowed  in  this  trial.  It  is  pure  head- 
work.  A  jury  of  literary  men  examine  the  various  produc- 
tions. If  they  pass,  a  red  mark  of  approval  is  made  after  each 
essay  has  been  copied,  to  show  no  partiality.  Those  who 


Literary  Honors.  487 


pass  the  first  jury  go  up  to  the  second;  all  others  are  re- 
jected. This  is  the  second  degree  the  student  is  contending 
for  now.  He  has  taken  his  first  of  "Beautiful  Ability," 
instead  of  Bachelor  of  Arts,  at  his  district  college.  Un- 
less he  takes  the  first,  he  cannot  go  up  to  the  Canton  or 
Provincial  Hall.  One  hundred  out  of  ten  thousand  now 
pass.  Here  are  the  A.M.'s,  or  Advanced  Men.  The 
session  is  over ;  the  victorious  are  highly  honored ;  ovations 
and  high  honors  await  them ;  cannons  boom,  fiddles,  drums, 
flageolets,  gongs,  cymbals  are  attuned  to  the  sweetest  music, 
bonfires  and  lanterns  are  lighted,  and  the  procession  of  their 
friends  forms  to  celebrate  this  eventful  occasion.  The  news 
flashes  to  every  part  of  the  empire,  for  each  district  is 
ambitious  to  excel  and  win  its  share  of  honors.  "The 
success  of  the  student  is  equivalent  to  an  election."  These 
examinations  are  the  stepping-stones  to  political  honors 
and  civil  office.  To  be  a  mandarin  and  viceroy,  you  must 
first  be  a  literary  graduate.  There  is  no  party  service,  in- 
fluence of  friends,  money,  or  whisky  tolerated  in  this  sys- 
tem; merit  and  qualification  must  invariably  be  the  test 
for  office.  We  have  mentioned  the  first  degree,  B.  A.,  and 
the  second  degree,  A.M. — the  first  obtained  at  the  district, 
the  second  at  the  provincial  college.  There  is  still  a 
third,  for  all  students  who  have  passed  the  A.M.,  at  Pekin ; 
if  successful  here,  they  receive  the  degree  of  "  Doctor  of 
Laws,"  which  entitles  them  to  occupy  the  highest  official 
positions.  Those  who  fail  are  allowed  to  try  every  three 
years.  Many  grow  old  in  these  efforts,  and  die  at  last  with- 
out success.  Some  have  studied  for  fifty  years,  and  failed. 
To  all  competitors  of  this  character  the  Government  is  very 
generous,  giving  them  an  allowance  from  the  imperial 
treasury,  to  enable  them  to  study  at  Pekin. 

This  has  been  the  system  in  China  for  nearly  two  thou- 
sand years.    Students  preparing  for  the  test  examinations 


488  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

become  familiar  with  the  literature  and  history  'of  their 
country.  Besides  this  advantage,  the  system  is  purely  dem- 
ocratic, giving  every  student  equal  advantages. 

The  Chinese  are  a  very  literary  people.  Their  classics, 
fiction,  stories,  histories,  and  works  on  dramatic  art  are  to 
be  found  at  the  numerous  book-stalls  or  shops  in  every 
city.  They  are  a  reading  people,  and  hold  their  literature 
in  the  highest  esteem.  Printing-offices  are  as  numerous  as 
the  bookstores — shops  where  men  sit  at  tables  handling 
blocks  on  which  characters  are  engraved.  The  Chinese 
claim  an  unbroken  record  of  history  back  three  thousand 
years — as  old  as  Moses.  Their  chief  text-books  of  Confu- 
cian classics  are  about  as  ancient  as  the  prophecy  of  Isaiah, 
observes  an  intelligent  writer. 

They  have  magistrate  courts  in  China,  in  which  petty 
cases  of  crime  are  tried;  but  the  Emperor  has  power  over 
life  and  death,  without  trial,  I  believe.  Many  of  the  poor 
wretches  condemned  to  death  are  brought  here  to  the  Exe- 
cution Grounds.  The  criminals,  sometimes  a  dozen  in  a  line, 
lay  their  heads  along  on  blocks,  waiting  for  the  ax-man; 
presently  he  begins  the  decapitation,  severing  each  head 
from  the  body  at  a  single  stroke,  moving  the  basket  along 
to  catch  the  heads  as  they  fall.  For  trivial  oflensesj  the 
officers  tie  the  culprits'  "pig-tails"  together,  which  is  re- 
garded as  an  eternal  disgrace.  On  one  occasion  I  witnessed 
a  scene  of  this  kind  myself. 

Bankruptcy  is  almost  unknown  in  China.  They  are 
afraid  to  break  here.  It  is  too  uncomfortable.  When  a 
native  dealer  fails  to  pay  his  creditors,  they  all  assemble 
at  his  house,  fortified  with  their  pipes  and  a  goodly  store 
of  rice  and  tea,  and  there  they  sit,  calmly  smoking,  sip- 
ping, and  eating  till  the  money  is  paid.  If,  however,  the 
defaulter  be  a  European,  they  post  a  police  agent  at  his 
door,  and  fasten  on  it  a  huge  sheet  of  paper,  on  which 


Drugs  and  Doctors. 


489 


each  creditor  writes  the  amount  owing  to  him.  It  is  said 
the  wealthiest  banker  in  the  world  lives  here  in  Canton — 
richer  than  the  Kothschilds — worth  $1,400,000,000.  His 
name  is  Aan  Qua. 


INTIMATE   RELATIONS. 


You  ought  to  see  a  drug-store  in  China — you  would 
never  get  sick  again.  The  druggist  is  the  doctor,  and 
pulls  teeth  as  well  (there  are  dentists  to  fill  them).  From 
a  peck  to  a  half-bushel  of  old  stubs  may  be  seen  in  front 
of  almost  any  shop  in  Canton.  I  heard  they  pull  teeth 
with  their  fingers — I  never  saw  it  done.  The  law  is  very 
stringent  about  license  to  practice  medicine,  I  know. 
Every  physician  is  required  to  hang  out  his  sign-board  for 
inspection,  with  the  name  of  every  patient  who  has  died 
under  his  treatment  written  on  it.*  One  day  a  European 
arriving  was  taken  suddenly  ill,  so  I  read,  and  sent  his 

*  The  sign-boards  hang  up  and  down,  just  like  their  language  reads. 


490  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

"varlet"  out  for  a  doctor.  "Go  in  haste;  but  be  careful 
to  find  the  board  with  the  fewest  names  on  it."  After 
walking  himself  nearly  to  death,  he  was  rewarded.  Looking 
up,  he  saw  a  sign  with  just  one  name.  After  the  medicine 
was  administered,  the  thoughtful  patient  congratulated  the 
doctor  upon  his  eminent  success.  "How  is  that?"  says 
Esculapius.  "  Why,  in  your  practice,  I  hear  you  have  had 
only  one  death."  "  Yes,  that 's  so."  "  How  long,  doctor, 
have  you  been  practicing?"  inquired  the  eager  patient. 
"Well,  yes;  I  commenced  yesterday."  A  doctor  is  paid 
here  for  keeping  a  man  well,  I  have  no  doubt  the  peo- 
ple live  in  dreadful  horror  of  the  Chinese  materia  medica. 
They  have  four  hundred  and  forty-two  medicines,  either 
one  of  which,  it  seems  to  me,  ought  to  kill  a  "  pig-tail " 
at  long  range.  I  have  secured  a  partial  list  by  accident. 
I  find  such  curious  items  as  "  dried  red-spotted  lizard,  silk- 
worm moth,  parasite  of  mulberry-tree,  ass's  glue,  tops  of 
hartshorn  and  bird's-nest,  black  and  white  lead,  stalac- 
tite, asbestos,  tortoise  shells,  human  milk,  glue  from  stag's 
horns  and  bones,  ferns,"  all  recommended  as  tonics ;  burned 
straw,  oyster  shells,  gold  and  silver  leaf,  iron  filings,  and  the 
bones  and  tusks  of  dragons,  are  stated  to  be  astringent. 
The  so-called  dragon's  bones,  by  the  way,  are  the  fossil  re- 
mains of  the  megatherium  and  other  extinct  animals  which 
are  found  in  various  places,  and  which  our  own  Anglo- 
Saxon  ancestors  esteemed  so  highly  for  medicinal  purpos- 
es. Indeed,  any  one  acquainted  with  the  leechdoms  of  our 
own  forefathers  might  suppose,  in  glancing  over  these  Chi- 
nese prescriptions,  that  he  was  reading  the  medical  lore 
of  Britain  until  the  eighteenth  century.  There  is  the  iden- 
tical use  of  ingredients,  selected,  apparently,  solely  on  ac- 
count of  their  loathsomeness. 

There  are  certain  diseases  which  the  physicians  declare 
to  be  incurable  save  by  a  decoction  of  which  the  principal 


Fashionable  Dinings.  491 

ingredient  is  warm  human  flesh  cut  from  the  arm  or  thigh 
of  a  living  son  or  daughter  of  the  patient!  To  supply  this 
piece  of'  flesh  is  (naturally)  esteemed  one  of  the  noblest  acts 
of  filial  devotion ;  and  there  are  numerous  instances  on  rec- 
ord in  quite  recent  years  in  which  this  generous  offer  has 
been  made  to  save  the  life  of  a  parent,  and  even  of  a  mother- 
in-law. 

A  case  which  was  held  up  for  special  commendation  in 
The  Official'  Gazette  of  Pekin,  in  1870,  was  that  of  a  young 
girl  who  had  actually  tried  herself  to  cut  the  flesh  from 
her  thigh  to  save  the  life  of  her  mother;  but  finding  her 
courage  fail,  she  had  cut  off  two  joints  of  her  finger  and 
dropped  the  flesh  into  the  medicine,  which  happily  proved 
equally  efficacious;  "  for,"  says  The  Official  Gazette,  "this  act 
of  filial  piety  of  course  had  its  reward  in  the  immediate 
recovery  of  the  mother."  This  case  called  forth  "  bound- 
less laudations  "  from  the  Governor-general  of  the  Province 
of  Kiang-si.  who  begged  that  the  Emperor  would  bestow 
"some  exemplary  reward  on  the  child,  such  as  the  creation 
of  a  great  triumphal  arch  of  carved  stone,  to  commemorate 
the  act." 

Leaving  Canton,  we  moved  slowljl  down  the  river.  We 
observe  that  famous  hostelry,  the  Canton  House,  sitting 
upon  four  bamboo  posts,  something  like  a  chicken-coop. 
The  name,  emMazoned  in  the  gable,  was  the  biggest  thing 
I  saw.  A.  number  of  "Chinese  men-of-war,"  about  as 
large  as  a  good  schooner,  with  a  number  of  small  cannon 
grinning,  I  learned,  were  to  protect  the  salt  trade,  and  pre- 
vent the  smuggling  of  opium,  etc.,  which  is  sometimes 
thrown  overboard  down  the  river  and  floated  ashore. 

A  Chinaman  rarely  ever  entertains  at  home.  This  dis- 
penses with  an  immense  deal  of  worry  about  his  house.  He 
invites  his  friends  on  the  "flower  boat,"  which  you  see 
floating  on  the  Canton  River,  where  dinners  are  served  for 


492 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


the  purpose.  As  a  general  rule,  the  Chinaman's  house  is  not 
constructed  with  drawing-rooms,  etc.,  like  ours.  The  pro- 
prietor of  the  boat  furnishes  every  thing — flowers  and  gor- 
geous lanterns,  fluttering  flags  and  a  band  of  music.  The 
band  consists  of  three  girls  with  painted  cheeks  and  lips,  per- 
form-hers  on  the  banjo,  guitar,  and  cymbals.  These  play 
while  the  guests  are  dining. 


FLOWER   BOAT. 

The  Chinaman  believes  we  foreigners  come  over  here  to 
eat,  because  we  do  n't  have  enough  to  eat  at  home.  They 
must  regard  us  as  very  fastidious,  When  we  refuse  to  dine 
on  their  bird's-nest  soup,*  or  even  shark's  fins.  A  China- 
man's stomach  is  his  source  of  intellectual  life.  The 
fattest  man  goes  for  the  wisest  one.  Most  Chinamen  eat 
at  hotels,  except  those  with  families,  who  live  at  home. 

*  Bird's-nests  are  obtained  on  the  rocky  cliffs  of  Borneo  and  Suma- 
tra. A  man  suspends  himself  by  a  rope  to  secure  them.  They  bring 
several  dollars  apiece  here,  as  the  gelatine  is  used  for  making  soup. 


Sailing  up  ike  Northern  Coast.  493 

They  usually  eat  on  getting  up  in  the  morning,  and  then 
at  three  to  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  wealthier 
class  eat  three  or  four  times  a  day.  A  father  will  sometimes 
dine  by  himself,  to  enjoy  an  extra  dish  of  meat,  while  the 
children  must  be  content  with  rice.  The  poor  folks  (and 
there  are  millions  of  them)  buy  their  meals  from  the  street 
drummers.  Only  the  very  poorest  eat  rats,  cats,  and  dogs  ; 
the  better  classes  never.  A.  cook  gets  his  diploma  and  de- 
grees in  cooking  as  he  does  in  science.  "  The  Celestials  use 
no  table-cloths,  napkins,  knives,  forks,  spoon,  dishes,  plates, 
or  glassware.  Instead  of  napkins,  they  use  packages  of  thin, 
soft  paper,  which  also  serve  them  for  handkerchiefs.  After 
using,  they  throw  them  away.  Each  guest  has  a  saucer,  a 
pair  of  sticks,  a  package  of  paper,  and  a  minute  cup,  with 
salt-saucer.  The  Chinese  women  never  dine  with  the  men. 
Everybody  smokes  during  the  eating  of  a  formal  dinner,  and 
the  dinner  is  crowned  by  a  story  or  legend  narrated  by  some 
more  or  less  known  orator.  No  topic  of  general  interest  is 
discussed  at  such  dinners,  but  a  gastronomist  who  knows  all 
about  the  preparing  of  food  receives  attention." 

CHAPTER  XLVIII. 

RETURNING  FROM  CANTON  —  AMUSEMENTS  OF  THE  CHI- 
NESE —  UP  THE  COAST  TO  SHANGHAI. 


imagine  that  the  Chinese  have  no  amusements. 
±  They  have  many  of  the  vices,  as  well  as  the  virtues,  of 
Christian  nations.  They  fight  chickens,  gamble,  go  to  the 
circus  and  theaters,  drink  samshu  and  some  whisky;  but 
they  have  a  perfect  horror  of  a  drunken  man.  They  point 
to  their  superiority  over  foreigners  in  morality  as  weir  as  in 
temperance.  But  they  will  fight  the  mud  and  snapping 
turtles  in  mortal  combat.  These  turtles  are  trained  for  the 
business,  and  show  wonderful  vitality  even  after  the  tail, 


494  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

foot,  or  head  has  been  nearly  bitten  off.  They  will  continue 
to  bite  just  as  if  nothing  had  happened.  Raw  meat  and  a 
drug  known  in  Texas  as  "  loco "  are  fed  to  the  combatants. 
Sometimes  a  fight  lasts  for  ten  hours.  One  of  the  most  ter- 
rible conflicts  occurs  between  a  species  of  wildcat  (much 
like  the  American)  and  a  bull-terrier.  If  the  dog  can 
catch  the  cat  by  the  nose  he  wins.  If  the  cat  falls  on  his 
back,  which  he  will  do  if  he  can,  the  dog  loses.  The  Chi- 
nese use  sharpened  spurs,  pointed  steel,  file  the  teeth  of  the 
animals,  and  resort  to  every  artifice  to  win.  The  Foochow 
cocks  bring  seventy  dollars  each,  and  some  of  them  boast 
of  as  long  pedigrees  as  a  blooded  horse  in  America.  You 
would  be  amused  to  see  them  fight  two  rats  in  a  battle,  or  a 
rat  fighting  his  deadly  enemies,  the  cat  and  the  dog.  A 
Chinese  quail  is  the  gamest  bird  that  "  ever  fluttered."  It 
will  fight  for  hours,  and  drop  from  sheer  exhaustion.  These 
amusements  are  going  on  in  Canton  and  other  large  cities, 
and  can  always  be  located  by  a  profuse  display  of  bunt- 
ing. About  two  to  five  cents  is  the  admission  price. 

On  our  return  to  Hong  Kong  the  "  Hydaspes  "  was  getting 
up  steam  for  Shanghai,  five  days  sail  up  the  northern  coast 
and  nine  hundred  and  twenty  miles  distant. 

We  did  not  have  any  particular  desire  to  see  the  Amer- 
ican Consul  here — Col.  Mosby,  the  ex-Confederate  chieftain 
who  betrayed  the  confidence  of  his  people  in  the  darkest 
hours  of  his  country's  peril.  I  hear  it  stated  that  the  Colo- 
nel does  not  intend  to  return  to  Virginia.  Well,  Virginia 
will  not  grieve  over  parting  with  her  disloyal  sons. 

Hurrying  to  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  office  to  have 
my  ticket  extended,  we  were  soon  most  comfortably  settled 
down  on  the  "  Hydaspes,"  which  had  become  a  home  to  me. 
I  found  the  company's  agents  here  and  at  Calcutta  the 
most  obliging  gentlemen,  whom  it  was  a  pleasure  to  meet. 
Like  other  passengers,  I  have  received  at  the  hands  of  these 


Sailing  up  the  Northern  Coast.  495 

officials  many  considerations  of  kindness  I  shall  not  soon 
forget. 

We  leave  Hong  Kong  on  the  24th  of  May,  steaming 
slowly  eastward,  out  among  a  group  of  islands,  and  then 
turning  north  occasionally  sight  the  coast  and  cities  along 
it  on  our  stretch  to  Shanghai.  In  one  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  we  pass  the  city  of  Swatow,  one  of  the  ports  opened 
by  the  treaty  of  Tientsin  in  1858.  It  is  also  the  ship- 
ping port  for  Foo-choo-foo,  a  city  a  short  distance  inland. 
There  is  a  lofty  range  of  mountains  I  see  a  little  south, 
stretching  away  toward  the  west,  that  must  be  a  coast  range. 
The  river  Han,  making  down  from  these  mountains,  flows 
through  an  extended  plain  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of 
sugar-cane.  This  crop  is  made  up  into  sweets,  of  which  the 
Chinese  are  very  fond,  and  shipped  to  distant  markets  of 
the  empire.  We  pass  in  sight  of  a  bold  headland,  jutting 
down  the  sea  like  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  observing  fishing- 
smacks  and  tiny  boats.  These  are  white,  those  at  Hong 
Kong  green,  and  I  learn  the  boats  at  Shanghai  will  have 
square  bows  and  red  gunwales.  "You  can  tell  each  city 
by  the  color  of  its  boats."  Some  of  the  islands  we  pass  in 
the  bay  are  terraced  from  the  water  to  their  very  summits. 
Swatow  is  the  sea-port  for  Kwang-tung  and  Fukien.  They 
are  poor  districts,  with  dense  populations,  hard  for  mission- 
ary work,  hard  to  live  in,  and  hard  for  the  Government  to 
manage.  The  mandarins  sometimes  find  it  difficult  to 
quell  the  mobs  that  rise  against  their  authority.  From 
this  port  the  people  have  emigrated  to  California  in  large 
numbers. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  miles  north  of  Swatow  is  the 
city  of  Amoy,  the  most  ancient  port  in  China.  A  thou- 
sand years  ago  junks  were  seen  from  Amoy  in  the  Persian 
Gulf.  The  Portuguese  were  here  in  1544,  and  much  ear- 
lier than  this — in  the  thirteenth  century,  when  Marco 


496  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Polo  first  came  out  from  Europe.  In  those  days  it  was  a 
great  port.  It  was  captured  by  the  English  in  the  Opium 
War  of  1841,  and  thrown  open  as  a  treaty  port  under  the 
treaty  of  Nankin.  Many  of  the  richest  men  in  China  were 
merchants  here  once.  The  mountains  are  bare  of  forest, 
which  detracts  from  their  picturesqueness. 

We  have  passed  Formosa,  of  which  Kelung  is  the  capi- 
tal city,  far  to  our  right.  A  part  of  the  island  is  opposite 
Amoy,  and  is  noted  for  its  extensive  coal-beds,  camphor- 
gum,  camphor-wood,  etc.  The  French  fleet  have  bombard- 
ed Kelung  with  several  men-of-war,  which  are  in  posses- 
sion now. 

We  knew  when  we  got  opposite  Foochow  by  the  immense 
number  of  fishing-boats,  which  probably  numbered  a  thou- 
sand, extending  as  far  out  as  our  ship,  fifteen  miles  from 
shore.  The  Chinese  fish  with  cormorants.  You  see  these 
large  birds  sitting  on  the  edge  of  the  boats  looking  down 
in  the  water  for  fish.  Presently  one  dives,  brings  up  a  large 
fish,  but  cannot  swallow  it.  Its  master  has  a  ring  around 
its  neck  that  prevents  such  a  contingency. 

This  great  city  is  situated  thirty  miles  inland  on  the  river 
Min,  and  is  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  distant 
from  Amoy.  It  is  the  greatest  city  between  Hong  Kong 
and  Shanghai.  Nearly  one  hundred  million  pounds  of 
black  teas  were  shipped  from  here  during  the  past  twelve 
months,  at  least  half  of  which  went  to  England.  Here  the 
oolong,  flowery  pekoe,  orange  pekoe,  and  congou  are  culti- 
vated. I  learn  the  difference  in  these  teas  lies  more  in  the 
manufacture  than  in  the  plant.  A  large  number  of  English 
and  American  missionaries,  with  quite  a  population  of  Eu- 
ropeans, numbering  several  hundred  probably,  reside  here. 
Foochow  is  spelled  several  ways.  Some  call  it  Fuh-chau 
(Foochow),  while  the  Chinese  call  it  Fuchau,  and  the  people 
themselves  pronounce  it  Hak-chieu.  I  am  indebted  for 


Sailing  up  the  Northern  Coast.  497 

much  of  this  information  to  Mr.  Coffin.  The  population 
must  be  nearly  eight  hundred  thousand.  The  climate  is 
mild,  frost  rarely  ever  falling  here.  But  in  1864  two  inches 
of  snow  fell — first  in  forty  years.  "  The  Province  of  Fukien, 
of  which  Foochow  is  the  metropolis,  is  about  as  large  as  the 
six  New  England  States,"  observes  Mr.  Coffin.  Here  mill- 
ions of  bamboo  (the  same  genus  as  our  cane  in  Georgia, 
but  a  larger  species)  are  cultivated,  and  exported  on  junks 
built  expressly  for  its  transportation.  It  is  very  light,  and 
you  can't  overload  a  junk  with  bamboo.  I  have  seen  them 
piled  as  high  as  a  hay-rick  in  New  England,  under  a  cloud 
of  pressing  canvas.  Returning  from  Shanghai,  they  bring 
back  a  cargo  of  rice,  beans,  etc.,  from  the  valley  of  the  great 
Yang-tse.  But  now  we  behold  rocks  rising  out  of  the  sea — 
little  islands  of  rocks — and  a  distinct  line,  running  as  far  as 
our  eyes  can  reach,  marks  the  clear  waters  of  the  China 
Sea  and  the  flow  of  the  muddy  Yang-tse.  This  is  China's 
Mississippi,  that  flows  down  from  the  mountains  of  Thibet 
through  the  plains  of  the  central  provinces,  bringing  with 
its  resistless  power,  through  thousands  of  miles  of  territory, 
a  muddy  sediment,  which  it  here  empties  into  a  broad  est- 
uary of  the  sea.  We  see  coming  out  ahead  of  us  ships  of 
every  nation — some  French,  Russian,  American,  but  the 
largest  number  British  steamers — sending  up  their  great 
clouds  of  smoke  or  spreading  their  snowy  sails  for  a  long 
stretch  homeward.  One  has  turned  up  the  coast  to  Japan. 
All  these  vessels  have  come  down  the  Wusung  River  from 
Shanghai,  about  thirty  miles  distant  from  the  confluence  of 
the  great  Yang-tse  with  the  Wusung  River.  We  pass  under 
the  guns  of  the  village  of  Wusung,  on  a  pretty  green  bank 
at  its  confluence,  where  the  French  have  established  a  na- 
val depot.  In  1841  the  English  tore  the  mud  fort  here  to 
pieces.  Across  the  country  to  Shanghai  is  only  about  twelve 
miles,  but  by  the  river  thirty,  or  may  be  less.  It  was  on  this 
32 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


short  cut,  between  the  mouth  of  the  river  at  Wusung  and 
the  city  of  Shanghai  the  railroad  ran  a  few  years  ago,  but 
which  the  Chinese  Government  purchased,  tore  up,  and 
moved  away.  I  will  give  you  the  reason  why  this  was  done 
before  I  leave  Shanghai. 

We  change  from  our  steamer  to  a  small  tug,  because  our 
ship  must  wait  for  the  tide.  The  river-banks  are  very  low 
up  to  the  great  city.  We  see  peach-trees  in  bloom ;  fields  of 
cotton  now  six  inches  high ;  acres  of  beans,  sugar-cane — 
sorghum?  yes,  sorghum;  fields  of  rice  growing  in  the  wa- 
ter; wheat  and  barley  being  taken  off  and  then  plowed, 
flooded,  and  fields  of  more  rice  being  planted.  You  see  the 
Chinese  with  their  blue  blouses  on,  broad-brimmed  palmet- 
to hats,  bare  legs,  with  their  wives  and  children,  setting  out 
rice-plants.  Some  are  pulling  them  up  out  of  the  green 
beds,  others  dropping  them  in  bunches,  about  like  we  drop 
potato-slips  in  Georgia ;  while  the  whole  family  are  formed 
in  line,  with  a  bunch  of  plants  in  each  left-hand,  setting  out 
two  and  three  plants  from  left  to  right,  then  next,  next, 
and  next  member  of  the  family  catching  up  the  refrain  un- 
til a  row  is  set  out  as  far  as  they  can  reach.  If  five  in  fam- 
ily they  will  set  a  line  twelve  to  fifteen  feet,  then  drop  back, 
plant  another  line,  stepping  backward  all  the  time.  The 
plants  are  set  about  six  inches  apart  each  way,  and  when 
they  finish  a  line  by  the  eye  it  is  as  straight  as  an  arrow. 
Wonderful  people !  We  see  the  gardener  coming  out  of  his 
bamboo  hut,  covered  with  matting,  to  work  his  sweet  and 
Irish  potato  patches,  his  cabbages  and  cauliflowers.  The 
banks  of  the  river  are  bordered  with  rushes  and  reeds.  A 
fisherman,  with  his  great  baggy  net,  now  and  then  appears, 
while  the  stream  swarms  with  sampans,  junks,  and  boats  of 
every  description,  crowded  with  their  families  of  children. 
At  last  the  landscape  is  broken  by  smoke  ascending  from 
tall  chimneys  in  the  distance;  the  night  comes  on,  and 


Sailing  up  the  Northern  Coast. 


499 


through  a  wilderness  of  shipping  and  sampans  we  reach  the 
shore.     It  is  Shanghai. 

Let  them  fight  awhile.    We  have  seen  these  battles  before. 


LANDING  AT  SHANGHAI.* 

It  is  a  fight  all  the  way  round,  from  the  time  you  land  in 
Naples,  Alexandria,  Joppa,  to  these  distant  shores.  It  is  a 
part  of  every  traveler's  experience.  We  expect  it,  and  are 
disappointed  if  there  is  not  a  skirmish  over  our  bage-aee. 

A  •*•  OO      O 

We  walked  down  a  broad,  beautiful  avenue,  under  a  blaze 
of  electric  lights,  to  the  Astor  House.  Block  after  block 
of  stately  buildings  in  brick,  faced  with  stone,  towered  away 
many  stories  high,  in  majestic  grandeur. 

This  new  city,  with  its  mysteries  of  electricity  and  mar- 
vels of  architecture,  belonged  to  another  civilization — the 
civilization  of  the  Western  World.  Here  the  Bund  is  the 
beautiful  avenue  of  the  Champs  des  Elysees,  and  the  Astor 
House  the  Grand  Hotel  of  Paris.  This  American  Hotel  is 
located  in  the  European  part  of  Shanghai. 

-All  heathens  on  baggage.  They  Will  fight  from  New  York  around  the 
world  to  see  who  shall  carry  it  to  the  hotel. 


600  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

CHAPTER  XLIX. 

IN  THE  CITY  OF  SHANGHAI. 

OUR  visit  to  Shanghai  had  been  anticipated  with  real 
pleasure.  Here  we  should  meet  our  distinguished  Geor- 
gian and  beloved  missionary,  Dr. Young  J.  Allen,  whom  I  had 
already  apprised  of  our  approach  to  the  shores  of  China. 
Early  the  following  morning  we  heard  a  gentle  tap  at  our 
door.  We  knew  it  was  our  friend,  who  had  come  to  welcome 
us  and  conduct  us  to  his  hospitable  home.  The  ever-present 
jinrikisha  wheeled  us  away  up  the  Bund  and  back  a  few 
blocks  down  a  street  between  two  walls  to  Dr.  Allen's  resi- 
dence. Across  the  street  dividing  the  residence  lots  from  the 
Anglo-Chinese  College  grounds  rose  the  magnificent  new  col- 
lege building.  A  separate  chapter,  devoted  to  the  educa- 
tional and  missionary  work,  will  embrace  some  account  of 
this  grand  institution,  whose  recent  successful  inauguration 
marks  a  new  epoch  in  the  mission  work  of  China.  We  had 
brought  good  tidings  from  Oxford,  Georgia,  to  the  distant 
home  in  Shanghai.  For  several  years  Mrs.  Allen  had  been 
absent  in  her  native  land,  educating  her  children.  Edgar, 
the  eldest  son,  would  soon  graduate  with  distinction,  and 
all  eyes  were  turned  toward  him  as  a  worthy  successor  to 
his  illustrious  father.  Arthur  was  a  most  promising  lad, 
following  closely  upon  the  steps  of  his  brother.  He  was  to 
pursue  his  education  at  Oxford,  while  Edgar,  after  grad- 
uation, would  perfect  himself  in  other  branches  at  Balti- 
more. Mrs.  Allen  and  the  smaller  children  were  to  return 
to  Shanghai  the  succeeding  fall. 

At  tiffin  (one  o'clock)  Dr.  Allen  introduced  me  to  Miss 
Anna  Muse,  his  daughter  Miss  Millie,  and  the  Rev.  George 
R.  Loehr,  who  are  teachers  in  the  Anglo-Chinese  College. 
Miss  Muse,  of  Atlanta,  Ga.,  and  Mr.  Loehr,  a  graduate  of 


In  the  City  of  Shanghai.  501 

Oxford,  had  only  arrived  in  China  two  or  three  years  ago. 
Their  progress  in  acquiring  the  Chinese  language  had  been 
remarkable.  Miss  Allen  had  enjoyed  the  finest  educational 
advantages  at  Staunton,  Va.,  Italy  and  Germany  in  Europe, 
and  was  herself  an  accomplished  Chinese  scholar.  Dr.  Al- 
len, on  account  of  valuable  literary  services  rendered  the 
Government  in  the  translation  department  at  the  Arsenal, 
in  this  city,  had  been  honored  with  the  title  of  Mandarin. 
These  pleasant  associations  were  to  crowd  my  days  full  of 
interest  and  pleasure  in  Shanghai.  The  young  ladies  in- 
formed me  the  first  thing  to  be  done  on  reaching  China  was 
to  "  name  me  over."  They  all  had  foreign  names.  Dr.  Hen- 
drix  informs  us  his  Chinese  name  was  Sung,  which  sounded 
a  little  bad  in  English ;  but  it  meant  constancy,  or  perse- 
verance, in  Chinese.  I  begged  them  not  to  name  me.  I 
had  rather  be  called  "Yung  Kwatsa,"  or  Foreign  Devil, 
ten  days  than  to  be  hung  any  time. 

The  first  impressions  of  Shanghai  ever  made  on  my  mind 
was  when  I  was  a  boy.  The  tall,  gawky  fowls  known  as 
Shanghai  were  stumbling  over  every  block  in  my  father's 
yard.  Shanghai  pullets  and  three-story  roosters  were  the 
rage  in  those  days.  I  have  often  remarked  they  brought 
with  them  the  Asiatic  cholera  to  our  barn-yards.  We 
needed  no  bells  or  horns  to  wake  up  the  drowsy  Sambo,  for 
these  lofty  cockerels  rang  up  every  village  and  plantation  in 
the  land. 

The  foreign  settlements  or  concessions  here  are  outside 
the  walled  city,  consisting  of  the  American,  English,  and 
French  cantonments.  These  different  cities,  altogether  em- 
b^icing  a  European  population  of  five  thousand  or  more, 
are  subdivided  by  creeks  as  boundary  lines.  I  believe  one 
or  more  of  them  live  under  the  same  municipal  govern- 
ment. They  have  water-works,  and  are  lighted  up  by  elec- 
tricity. The  streets  are  macadamized  and  sprinkled  by 


602  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

roller  hose  in  the  same  way  as  in  Paris.  The  houses  on  the 
Bund,  or  Broad  street,  fronting  the  water  and  shipping,  are 
magnificent.  Here  are  the  great  importing  and  export 
houses  of  the  Japan  and  China  Trading  Company,  Russell 
&  Co.,  Jardiniere  &  Co.,  and  many  other  wealthy  English, 
American,  and  French  firms. 

Thousands  of  Chinese  have  "  caught  on  "  to  the  new  city, 
built  up  elegant  club-houses,  shops  and  stores,  residences 
of  brick  and  wood,  with  pretty  grass  yards  and  flowers,  pre- 
senting a  picture  in  striking  contrast  to  the  narrow  streets 
and  sqifalid  abodes  of  the  walled  or  old  city.  The 
aggregate  population  of  both  cities  is  about  half  a  mill- 
ion. On  account  of  its  geographical  position  Shanghai 
has  naturally  become  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the 
empire. 

Suchow,  the  political  capital  of  the  Province  of  Kiang-si, 
seventy  or  eighty  miles  distant,  boasts  of  one  million  souls, 
while  the  province  contains  a  population  of  thirty  millions 
or  more.  The  Suchow  creek  enters  the  Wusung  in  front 
of  the  Astor  House,  forming  the  boundary  line  between  the 
English  and  American  quarters.  Up  this  creek  we  can  go 
to  Suchow,  then  by  the  Imperial  Canal  to  the  Yang-tse,  on 
to  the  city  of  Pekin.  It  is  a  journey  of  seven  to  ten  days 
by  American  steamers,  running  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  an 
hour.  On  the  way  we  would  be  enabled  to  visit  Nankin, 
once  the  southern  capital  of  China,  under  the  Ming  dynas- 
ty until  the  fifteenth  century.  Then  the  present  Tartar 
government,  or  Manchu  dynasty,  came  into  power  and 
moved  the  capital  to  Pekin.  The  Taeping  rebellion,  which 
lasted  nearly  twenty  years,  destroyed  twenty-five  mi 
of  people.  The  war  commenced  on  the  borders  of  Burm 
spread  to  Canton,  rolled  down  the  Yang-tse  to  Shanghai,  and 
the  Yellow  River  to  Pekin.  This  war  ended  about  1864. 
After  leaving  Nankin,  one  hundred  and  ninety-four  miles 


In  the  City  of  Shanghai.  503 


west  of  Shanghai,  we  could  proceed  up  the  mighty  river  to 
Hankow,  the  great  tea-market,  where  the  steamers  receive 
their  cargoes  from  junks,  coming  down  from  Poyang  Lake 
like  a  covey  of  ducks.  Hankow  is  about  six  hundred  miles 
from  Shanghai ;  but  steamers  can  ascend  the  Yang-tse  still 
five  hundred  miles  farther,  and  small  craft  to  the  very  base 
of  the  Himalayas,  several  thousand  miles  distant.  This 
mighty  river,  comparable  only  to  the  Mississippi  and  Ama- 
zon in  extent  and  volume,  bears  upon  its  bosom  the  mer- 
chandise of  two  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  people.  One 
hundred  miles  south  of  Shanghai  is  another  large  city  called 
Hangchow,  where  the  Great  Canal  commences.  Then  there 
are  Ningpo,  Nantziang,  Karding,  Kwung  Shau,  and  any 
number  of  smaller  towns,  connected  with  Shanghai  by 
canals  or  water  navigation.  These  canals  are  spanned  by 
numerous  bridges,  built  of  stone,  many  of  them  showing 
beautiful  arches,  strong  enough  to  bear  a  train  of  cars, 
erected  more  than  two  thousand  years  ago.  They  are  rare- 
ly crossed  by  a  horse,  and  never  by  any  vehicle,  being  used 
only  for  pedestrians. 

We  see  then  that  Shanghai  is  at  the  mouth,  or  terminus, 
of  a  perfect  net-work  of  canals.  Thousands  of  junks,  sam- 
pans, and  native  craft,  with  their  brilliant  flags  and  flaming 
dragons  painted  on  their  lanteen  sails,  crowded  every  creek 
and  available  space,  receiving  and  discharging' cargo.  Here 
are  great  steamers  from  New  York,  London,  Marseilles,  and 
the  Black  Sea,  loading  with  tea  and  silks.  Opium  hulks,  or 
stationary  ships  for  the  sale  of  opium,  are  visible  too.  The 
streets  present  a  moving  panorama  of  human  beings.  Wheel- 
barrows, jinrikishas,  and  traps  do  the  work  of  transporta- 
tion. Two  persons  sit  cross-legged  on  a  board  to  balance 
each  other,  with  a  stirrup  on  either  side  to  put  their  feet  in. 
One  man  does  the  pushing.  When  there  is  only  one  pas- 
senger he  leans  his  vehicle  over  on  one  side  and  shoves 


CHINESE  COACH,  OR  WHEELBARROW. 


(504) 


In  the  City  of  Shanghai.  505 

along.  The  jinrikisha  has  been  introduced  from  Japan,  and 
is  exceedingly  popular  with  the  natives  and  foreigners.  The 
"trap"  is  the  one-horse  four-wheeler,  with  a  coolie  perched 
behind,  who  shouts  to  the  crowd,  "  Get  out  of  the  way !  Here 
we  come ! "  Yet  you  never  see  anybody  move  an  inch,  and 
the  wonder  is  there  are  not  funerals  every  day.  Men  carry 
every  thing  on  their  shoulders,  balanced  at  each  end  of  bam- 
boo poles.  Ships  are  loaded  and  unloaded,  baggage,  boxes, 
crates,  provisions,  vegetables,  crockery,  the  water  they  drink 
or  cook. with,  the  garbage,  and  even  the  offal,  are  carried  in 
this  way.  If  the  burden  is  very  great  it  is  suspended  from 
a  bamboo  pole  and  borne  by  two  men.  In  China,  as  in  In- 
dia, human  muscle  is  the  cheapest  commodity  on  the  mar- 
ket. It  is  equally  abundant. 

The  Chinese  scull  their  boats  instead  of  row  them.  Some- 
times they  have  a  rope  attached  to  the  upper  end  of  the  oar, 
while  at  the  lower  extremity  it  is  tied  to  the  side  of  the 
boat.  They  pull  the  oar  with  one  hand  while  the  other 
aids  the  stroke  by  pulling  forward  and  backward  upon  the 
rope.  The  increased  momentum  given  is  simply  marvel- 
ous. The  accuracy  with  which  they  scull  their  boats, 
working  the  oar  in  the  rear  end  backward  and  forward 
across  a  swift  current,  from  one  point  to  another,  struck  me 
with  more  astonishment.  The  women  often  row,  while  the 
little  daughter  pulls  on  the  rope.  They  cook,  eat,  and 
sleep  under  the  bamboo  awnings  of  their  sampans  in  the 
same  manner  described  at  Hong  Kong  and  Canton.  A 
long  boat,  with  a  little  cabin  in  the  center,  called  the  mail 
or  snake  boat,  runs  between  Shanghai  and  Suchow  in  six- 
teen hours.  One  man  works  the  oar  with  his  foot  and  steers 
with  his  hand  at  the  same  time.  The  average  speed  per 
hour  is  about  five  miles. 

It  is  now  the  28th  of  May ;  the  weather  is  showery  and 
sea  breeze  bracing,  with  overcast  skies.  We  have  a  cup  of 


606  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

tea  early  in  the  morning,  breakfast  from  eight  to  ten  o'clock, 
tiffin  at  one,  and  dinner  at  four  to  six.  With  slight  varia- 
tions, this  is  the  prevailing  custom  of  living  among  foreign- 
ers throughout  the  Orient.  If  you  have  the  money  you  can 
live  as  comfortably  here  as  in  Georgia.  The  markets  are 
well  supplied  with  fish,  oysters,  and  game — such  as  quail, 
pheasant,  wild  ducks,  venison ;  poultry,  eggs,  and  vegeta- 
bles in  abundance  and  very  cheap.  I  never  ate  finer  shad, 
sole,  bass,  carp,  or  chicken,  in  any  country.  Beef  and  mut- 
ton are  dear,  being  produced  in  the  mountainous  districts, 
some  distance  away.  The  finest  grouse  and  quail  shooting 
is  enjoyed  during  the  season  by  foreigners.  We  have  had 
at  dinner,  on  several  occasions,  sweet  and  Irish  potatoes, 
English  pease,  lettuce,  radishes,  roasting-ears,  cabbage,  cauli- 
flower, onions,  etc.  The  sweet  potatoes  are  not  so  firm  as 
ours,  but  very  delicious  in  flavor.  Jerusalem  artichoke  is 
one  of  the  aristocratic  dishes  among  foreigners  in  Shanghai. 
The  Chinese  vegetables  are  not  popular,  on  account  of  the 
way  they  are  fertilized  and  forced  into  rapid  maturity. 
They  are  hardly  ever  eaten  by  foreigners.  Here,  as  in  In- 
dia, coarse  grass,  cotton-stalks,  etc.,  are  used  for  fuel.  The 
foreigner  burns  coal  and  wood  in  grates  and  chimney-places, 
as  in  his  native  land.  The  Chinese  have  no  chimneys  to 
their  houses.  They  burn  coal  in  a  brazier  to  warm  their 
hands  by  in  winter ;  pad  and  wad  their  clothing,  the  wealth- 
ier classes  using  furs  to  keep  warm.  Men  and  women,  I  am 
told,  have  large  sleeves,  into  which  they  can  draw  up  their 
hands.  Children  are  wadded  and  stuffed  out  so  if  one  should 
fall  he  would  roll  like  a  town-ball.  The  Chinese  are  a 
sluggish,  immobile  race;  but  when  they  undertake  any 
thing  they  hardly  ever  fail.  They  have  intellect  and  genius 
of  the  highest  order.  Their  wonderful  industry  and  econ- 
omy are  the  chief  factors  of  their  success.  Very  often  they 
work  and  sleep  in  their  shops.  The  houses  of  many  poor 


In  the  City  of  Shanghai.  507 

people  are  destitute  of  furniture.  Sometimes  they  have 
stoves,  benches,  and  chairs  to  sit  on.  A  few  even  have  bed- 
steads, but  little  else.  On  the  Chinaman's  mantel  or  over  his 
bed  you  will  see  his  gods.  As  I  have  remarked,  he  carries 
them  in  his  boat  as  well.  Except  the  wealthy,  whose  homes 
are  often  inclosed  by  high  brick  walls,  the  poor  people  I 
have  seen  live  in  thatched  or  wooden  houses,  covered  with 
tile,  very  often  upon  bare  dirt  floors.  The  family  generally 
sleep  in  the  same  room,  but  it  presents  a  scene  of  utter  con- 
fusion. There  are  a  few  wooden  bowls  to  wash  and  little 
sweeping  to  be  done.  All  the  rubbish,  boxes,  clothes,  and 
baskets  are  piled  up  in  the  corners.  The  children  are  ragged 
or  perfectly  nude ;  their  mothers  are  at  work  in  the  field, 
and  they  go  to  work  too  as  soon  as  they  can  toddle  about. 
China  is  a  perfect  bee-hive  of  industrious  people — a  beggar 
is  almost  unknown.  For  common  labor  their  wages  are 
eight,  ten,  and  fifteen  cents  a  day,  finding  themselves;  skilled 
labor,  of  course,  earns  more.  Jinrikisha  and  trap  men  often 
realize  twenty-five  cents,  and  even  a  dollar  a  day.  The 
Chinese  here  live  on  vegetables,  rice,  and  fish.  A  water 
chestnut  is  among  the  delicacies  relished  by  them.  But  the 
Chinese  differ  in  habits,  customs,  dialects,  and  manners  in 
the  eighteen  provinces  as  much  as  the  Southerner  and 
Yankee  differ  in  the  United  States.  Of  course  there  are 
some  habits  common  throughout  the  empire,  such  as  relig- 
ious worship,  mode  of  burial,  eating  with  chop-sticks,  etc. 

Dr.  Allen  is  a  most  valuable  cicerone.  H»  gives  us  all 
the  time  he  can  spare  from  his  official  duties.  Just  now  he 
is  expecting  the  mail  from  America,  which  is  looked  for 
with  intense  desire  on  the  arrival  of  the  mail-steamers  at 
Yokohama.  From  Japan  it  requires  five  days,  through  the 
Inland  Sea,  bv  the  Japanese  Government  line,  to  reach 
Shanghai.  The  arrivals  at  Yokohama  from  San  Francisco 
are  telegraphed  here  immediately,  so  everybody  lives  in 


508  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

eager  expectancy  of  letters  and  papers  from  home.  The 
face  of  the  Atlanta  Constitution,  Advocates  at  Nashville  and 
Macon,  in  the  Doctor's  drawing-room,  seemed  quite  familiar 
to  me  after  an  absence  of  many  months. 

Finding  jinrikishas  convenient,  in  a  few  minutes  we  had 
crossed  the  Bund,  one  or  two  bridges  over  canals,  and  ar- 
rived in  front  of  the  north  gate  of  the  old  city.  The  wall 
around  is  perhaps  foijr  miles  long,  twenty  feet  high,  as  wide 
at  the  bottom,  and  ten  feet  across  the  top.  The  top  is  much 
used  by  pedestrians. 

The  streets  of  the  new  city  were  narrow  enough;  but 
here  two  men  could  stand  in  the  center  and  touch  on  either 
side  of  the  houses.  Crowded  is  too  mild  an  expression — it 
was  jammed ;  and  everybody  was  trying  to  pass  each  other 
by  dodging — no  room  for  traps,  jinrikishas,  or  wheelbarrows. 
There  were  none  here.  Standing-room  was  in  demand ;  we 
could  not  even  see  a  chair — palanquin.  After  we  had  pro- 
ceeded a  short  distance,  I  discovered  the  highest  prerequi- 
site necessary  for  doing  the  old  city  was  a  good  nose — a 
nose  that  was  not  inclined  to  turn  up  at  every  thing.  The 
oldest  traveler  knows  this.  The  mixed  smells,  the  un- 
swept  streets,  foul  sewerage,  poverty  and  dirt,  visible  in  our 
explorations,  would  paralyze  a  dude  to  describe  them ;  and 
if  he  succeeded,  "a  civilized  man  would  have  to  hold  his 
nose  to  read  it."  I  never  knew  the  Doctor  to  indulge  in 
such  intemperate  smoking  before.  The  people  use  water 
out  of  the  canals  that  run  through  this  old  city.  The 
sewers  empty  into  the  canals.  You  can  draw  your  own 
conclusions.  In  the  new  city  the  foreigners  catch  the  rain- 
water and  keep  it  in  cisterns  or  jars. 

Half  the  population  we  saw  seemed  engaged  in  making 
"  mock  money,"  in  the  shape  of  the  Chinese  gold  and  sil- 
ver cycees.  It  looked  something  like  a  shoe.  This  mock 
money  is  mere  tissue-paper  that  is  pasted  together  to  repre- 


In  the  City  of  Shanghai.  509 

sent  the  cycee.  When  it  is  burned  and  sent  to  the  other 
world  for  the  use  of  the  spirit-land,  it  passes  for  big  money 
up  there,  though  its  cost  here  amounts  to  a  trifle ;  you  can 
buy  a  hat  full  for  a  couple  of  cents,  but  sent  to  friends  in 
the  other  world  one  piece  is  supposed  to  represent  one  thou- 
sand dollars.  I  saw  carving  in  wood,  bone,  etc. ;  some  people 
were  making  fans  and  baskets,  while  others  were  indulging 
in  the  fragrant  shrub  "that  exhilarates  but  does  not  in- 
toxicate." A  printer  was  making  books  with  the  latest 
novel  to  sell.  The  Chinese  are  a  reading  people,  and  are 
fond  of  works  on  philosophy,  fiction,  poetry,  their  classics, 
dramatic  art,  etc.  These  books,  with  paper  covers,  are 
printed  on  wooden  blocks,  one  leaf  at  a  time,  bound  and 
sold  for  a  few  cents  a  copy.  I  am  not  sure  their  spring 
poet  was  living  or  dead.  When  we  had  passed  through 
the  surging  masses  into  an  open  square,  we  were  honored 
with  a  gymnastic  performance,  a  special  benefit  being  given 
to  each — the  Doctor  and  myself;  although  we  saw  each 
other's  performance,  and  its  artistic  effect  was  exactly  the 
same,  it  was  important  with  the  troupe  that  each  of  us 
should  have  a  special  overture.  We  gave  it  a  crowded 
house,  as  every  Chinaman  in  the  city  seemed  to  gather 
about  us.  This  opera,  comedy,  or  farce,  was  performed  by 
a  girl  with  trousers  on ;  while  a  boy  held  the  legs  of  a 
dilapidated  table,  an  old  woman  with  another  pair  of 
breeches  on  jumped  on  top,  fell  flat  of  her  back  and  ex- 
tended her  feet  in  a  vertical  direction;  up  went  a  ladder, 
to  the  top  went  the  girl — winding  her  nymph-like  form  un- 
der and  over  each  round,  she  finally  reached  the  summit; 
waving  her  hand  in  triumph  with  a  roguish  smile  (she  was 
after  our  money),  she  began  to  descend  feet  foremost,  as  she 
had  gone  up.  I  stood  in  breathless  silence.  Presently  she 
bounced  off  the  table  and  ran  to  me,  with  a  coquettish  air 
and  her  little  roguish  cap  in  her  hand.  "  Hold  on,  Doctor ; 


510  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

I'll  pay  that  bill.  What's  the  damage?"  The  Doctor,  inter- 
preting: "One  hundred  and  forty-four  cash."  "Suffering 
Moses!  there  an't  money  enough  in  the  crowd  to  pay  it." 
Then  we  began  to  figure  —  it  was  just  thirteen  cents. 
Twelve  hundred  cash  to  the  dollar  makes  everybody  rich 
and  contented.  Then  we  came  to  a  little  garden,  with  a 
tea-house  in  it.  Here  they  were  sipping  tea,  eating  water- 
melon seed,  parched  pease,  etc.  Several  Chinamen  were 
playing  cards — we  saw  no  ladies.  They  never  go  out  with 
their  husbands  except  on  funeral  occasions,  so  I  heard. 
A  Chinese  lady  considers  it  vulgar  to  walk  in  the  streets. 
Her  complete  helplessness  is  considered  her  greatest  charm 
— her  dependence  on  her  husband.  They  have  no  pockets 
in  their  dresses  to  carry  any  money  in.  They  must  make 
economical  wives. 

Just  as  we  were  departing  I  observed  a  wealthy  gentle- 
man approaching  the  garden,  with  a  string  of  cash  a  yard 
long  hanging  over  his  shoulders.  As  the  men  have  no 
pockets,  the  money  must  have  square  holes  in  the  center, 
so  they  can  string  it  up.  I  was  anxious  to  negotiate  with 
the  gentleman,  so  I  would  be  ready  for  the  next  perform- 
ance ;  but  the  Doctor  informed  me  it  was  his  private  change. 
I  learned  a  man,  unthinkingly,  one  day  attempted  to  cross 
the  river  in  front  of  the  Astor  House,  and  came  near  sink- 
ing his  sampan  with  five  dollars  worth  of  this  stuff,  called 
"  copper  cash." 

We  visited  Confucian  and  Tauist  temples  amidst  the  yells 
of  the  heathen  boys.  Boys  are  pretty  much  alike  all  the 
world  round.  Girls  are  very  different.  There  was  a  big 
drum  and  a  bell  at  the  entrance  to  the  temple-grounds ;  the 
yard  was  overgrown  with  weeds  and  grass,  while  the  build- 
ings showed  neglect,  and  wore  an  air  of  general  dilapida- 
tion. There  is  not  much  difference  between  Tauism  and 
Buddhism  in  China — the  religion  is  about  the  same.  Some- 


In  the  City  of  Shanghai.  511 

times  a  Chinaman  having  doubt  about  one  will  adopt  both, 
just  to  be  certain  "he  has  got  it."  The  architecture  of  the 
Chinese  temple  springs  from  the  Mongolian  tent,  that  of 
the  Greeks  from  a  tree. 

We  observed  the  different  censers,  altars,  etc.,  where  the 
offerings  are  made  to  the  dead  on  semi-annual  occasions. 
A  native  charity  hospital  showed  the  care  that  is  taken  of 
the  aged  and  poor.  Those  able  to  work  were  employed  in 
making  articles  to  sell.  In  one  part  of  the  building  I  saw 
immense  piles  of  rice  done  up  in  matting  and  stored  away 
for  consumption. 

Eeturning,  we  visit  a  justice's  court  and  several  jails, 
where  we  saw  a  large  number  of  prisoners  awaiting  trial. 
The  first  was  a  bamboo  pen,  with  the  poles  set  upright  a  few 
inches  apart.  Each  prisoner  wore  a  wide  board  around  his 
neck  so  he  could  not  reach  his  mouth  with  his  hands.  They 
were  in  here  for  theft,  debt,  abduction,  etc.  One  man  said 
he  was  in  there  for  marrying  his  brother's  wife;  another  Chi- 
naman replied,  "  Do  n't  believe  him  " — intimating  that  ab- 
duction was  a  less  crime  than  thieving.  In  another  prison 
(a  building)  we  saw  some  hideous  faces,  whose  guilty  con- 
sciences already  accused  them.  Dr.  Allen  remarked  that 
several  of  these  men  would  be  beheaded.  From  the  magis- 
trate court  the  small  offenders  can  appeal  to  a  higher  tribu- 
nal. The  subjoined  oath  is  the  one  usually  administered  to 
witnesses  in  California  and  China : 

"  This  is  to  inform  the  spirits  of  the  gods,  also  the  evil  spirits 
and  demons,  all  to  descend  here  to  hear,  oversee,  and  examine 
into  the  case  [naming  the  parties  litigant]  and  crime  charged. 
If  I  come  here  to  swear  profanely  and  tell  the  untruth  or  not, 
according  to  the  facts  of  the  case,  I  humbly  beg  the  celes- 
tial and  terrestial  spirits  to  redress  the  innocent  party  and  pun- 
ish the  false  witness  immediately,  and  arrest  his  soul.  May 
he  die  under  a  sword,  or  die  on  the  half-way  of  the  sea,  and 


512 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


have  no  life  to  return   to  China.     This  is  the  true  and 
solemn  declaration  of  oath  sworn  to  by  my  own  mouth,  and 

signed  by  my  own  name,  by  my  own  hand.     Done  this 

day, month,  in  the year  of  Quong  Sol." 


A  COOLIE  IN  HIS  BAMBOO  OVERCOAT — WET  WEATHER. 

A  novel  overcoat,  worn  by  the  coolie  in  wet  weather,  is 
made  out  of  split  bamboo ;  he  wears  a  hat  of  the  same  ma- 
terial, and  straw  sandals  confined  by  strings  around  his 
ankles  drawn  over  from  each  side.  Many  go  barefooted  as 
in  other  countries,  but  the  better  classes  in  China  wear  nice 
cloth  shoes  turned  up  at  the  toes.  They  have  leather  bot- 
toms, generally  edged  with  black  cloth.  Then  they  have 
a  straw  sandal  for  the  house,  while  the  tiny  shoes  of  the 
ladies  are  made  of  beautiful  colored  silks.  A  full-grown 


In  the  City  of  Shanghai.  513 

lady's  shoe  is  often  not  more  than  four  inches  long.     The 
custom  of  binding  their  feet  is  of  very  ancient  origin,  the 
history  of  which  seems  lost  in  obscurity.    Only  the  wealthy 
classes  are  addicted  to  it  as  a  custom ;  sometimes  there-  is  a 
pretty  girl    in    a   poor  family 
who  must  undergo  the  horrid 
torture,    in    the  hope  of  mar- 
rying wealthy.     The  bandages 
are'  loosened  about  three  times 
from  birth  to  maturity,  and  are 
not  removed  until  the  feet  have 
ceased  to  grow.      The  Chinese 
say  it  does  not  affect  the  health 
like  tight   lacing  in  America. 
A  Chinese  beau  dotes  on   the 
small  feet   of    his   sweetheart. 
He  must  see  them  occasionally, 
as  we  saw  them  on  the  "  Han- 
kow,"   going    up    to    Canton. 
The  girls    blushed  awfully   as 
we  cast  sly  glances  at  their  ti- 
ny feet  peeping  out  below  their 
baggy  trousers  of  colored  silks. 
"  AVe  should  n't  ought  to  have 
done  it,"  but  we  could  n't  ought 
to  have  helped  it.  Sir  John  de- 
clared they  looked  mighty  cun- 
ning— that  is,  the  girls.    When 
they  are  grown,  their  toes  have      SOLE  OF  A  CHI™E  SHOE 
been  mashed  flat  and  turned  in  under  the  bottom  of  their 
feet,  their  big  toe  alone  escaping  the  deformity.    When  they 
attempt  to  walk,  they  hobble  about  in  the  most  ludicrous 
manner.     The  Chinese  have  only  carried  this  custom  to  ex- 
tremes as  the  Singhalese  of  Ceylon  and  Hindoo  girls  of  India 


514  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

have  bangles  and  rings.  The  Americans  and  Europeans,  in 
modified  forms,  are  subject  to  as  much  criticism  in  wearing 
jewelry,  lacing,  and  small  shoes.  Except  the  Chicago  girls, 
there  is  not  a  woman  in  America,  we  believe,  who  is  not 
proud  of  her  No.  3  or  No.  4  shoe,  if  she  can  wear  it.  Let 
us  be  charitable  in  our  criticisms  of  the  Chinese. 

Somebody  asked  a  Chinaman  why  his  people  did  not 
abandon  the  horrible  practice  of  binding  feet.  "  Smallee 
footee  woman  no  go  walkee,  walkee,  walkee,"  he  replied. 
We  are  to  infer  that  Chinese  ladies  would  walk  the  streets 
if  they  could,  the  same  as  women  in  other  lands.  This 
is  one  advantage  our  ladies  have  over  them.  We  subjoin 
an  interesting  history  of  this  ancient  eustorn  that  appears 
to  be  nine  hundred  years  old : 

In  A.D.  975  the  last  Empress  of  the  famous  Tang  dynas- 
ty, who  was  the  most  beautiful  woman  of  her  time,  had 
clubbed  feet.  She  bandaged  and  ornamented  them  so  suc- 
cessfully that  the  fashion  of  cramped  feet  spread  through 
the  whole  empire.  The  Emperor  Kang-Hi,  the  founder  of 
the  present  Manchu  dynasty,  in  1762,  made  a  great  effort 
to  suppress  foot-binding.  After  issuing  one  edict  that 
proved  ineffectual,  he  prepared  another,  accompanied  with 
most  stringent  and  severe  penalties;  but  his  advisers  warned 
him  that  if  he  persisted  it  would  probably  cause  a  rebellion. 
Thus  the  conquerors  of  China  were  conquered  by  the  women 
of  China.  They  set  their  tiny  feet  on  princes'  necks.  On 
the  men  he  imposed  the  shaved  head  and  the  cue,  and  also 
the  dress  they  had  to  wear;  but  when  he  tried  to  suppress 
this  practice,  the  women  defied  him. 

The  following  morning  Sir  John  joined  us  in  a  visit  to  the 
Government  Arsenal,  about  five  miles  distant.*  This  ride 
by  jinrikishas  carried  us  out  in  the  country,  along  a  road 
where  there  was  a  countless  number  of  graves.  At  least 
one-third  of  the  laud  around  Shanghai  is  a  nrnve-yard. 

*A  curious  incident  is  related  about  a  regiment  of  Ghourka  (Indian)  troops 
being  confined  hy  their  English  officers  here  some  years  ago.  The  following 
morninar  the  officer  discovered  that  all  the  soldiers  had  climbed  up  over  the 
high  walls  of  tliH  inclosure  and  gone.  They  had  toe  and  finger  nails  like  cats. 
The  place  wns  pointed  out  on  the  road-side. 


Li  the  City  of  Shanghai.  515 

Thousands  of  conical  mounds,  covered  with  grass,  mark  the 
resting-places  of  its  departed  millions.  In  China  it  costs 
more  to  support  the  dead  than  it  does  the  living.  One  hun- 
dred and  fifty  millions  of  dollars  are  spent  annually  in 
ancestral  worship.  Fortunately  every  few  hundred  years, 
with  the  change  of  the  ruling  dynasty,  the  whole  country  is 
leveled  and  takes  a  new  start.  The  higher  the  mound  the 
greater  the  social  distinction  of  the  dead.  I  have  seen 4 
coffins  setting  on  benches  waiting  fo«r  burial — coffins  just  cov- 
ered with  matting  or  straw,  or  nothing  at  all,  on  top  of  the 
ground.  My  host  pointed  out  a  baby  tower  on  the  road- 
side that  resembled  a  well  walled  with  brick.  In  a  hole  in 
the  center  infants  and  small  children  are  thrust,  wrapped  in 
cloth ;  and  when  filled,  another  would  be  built. 

The  Arsenal  consists  of  a  number  of  huge  brick  build- 
ings, in  which  we  found  about  three  thousand  Chinamen  at 
work.  Here  you  can  see  them  building  ships  and  iron-clad 
men-of-war,  making  Woolwich  guns  of  immense  caliber, 
swords,  side-arms,  and  the  Remington  musket,  every  part  of 
it.  I  examined  the  work  carefully ;  it  is  well  and  thorough- 
ly done.  They  make  shot  and  shell.  The  iron  is  imported 
from  England,  and  an  Englishman  superintends  this  gi- 
gantic establishment.  The  Europeans  are  not  only  learn- 
ing the  Chinese  how  to  fight,  but  to  make  their  own  guns 
and  ammunition.  In  the  translation  department  here  Dr. 
Allen  labored  eleven  years.  His  place  is  now  filled  by  an 
Englishman ;  but  I  learn  the  Government  would  be  glad  to 
give  the  Doctor  fifteen  dollars  a  day  for  his  services  if  he 
will  return.  Dr.  Allen,  Rev.  Matthew  Yates,  and  Dr. 
Martin  are  considered  the  best  Chinese  scholars  among  the 
foreigners  in  the  empire. 

I  was  interested  in  the  engraver's  department,  where  the 
books  are  all  published.  When  the  manuscript  has  been 
once  carefully  prepared  on  transparent  paper,  each  letter 


516  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

in  a  little  square  by  itself,  it  is  laid  or  pasted  on  blocks  of 
wood  and  then  cut  out,  each  character,  by  the  engraver. 
•A  page  of  this  so  cut  will  be  a  fac-simile  of  the  printed 
copy.  A  brush  dipped  in  ink  is  passed  over  these  blocks, 
like  the  roller  over  our  type,  the  paper  then  placed  on  them, 
and  being  rubbed  over  again  by  another  brush  the  printing 
is  done.  This  is  a  slow  process,  but  the  Chinese  discovered 
it  long  before  we  did  our  metal  type,  and  stick  to  it.  The 
more  progressive  Chinese  laugh  at  the  old  way  in  compar- 
ison with  the  Presbyterian  Mission  type-press,  in  operation 
in  Shanghai.  I  was  presented  with  engravings  of  the  Con- 
fucian Annals,  which  are  the  size  of  the  page  of  the  book 
published. 

Of  all  the  foreigners  who  have  figured  in  the  history  of 
China  none  have  left  a  more  enduring  name  than  the 
British  General  Charles  George  Gordon,  the  gallant  hero 
and  martyred  soldier  of  Khartoum.  He  is  known  here 
as  "Chinese  Gordon,"  having  rendered  efficient  military 
services  some  years  ago  in  restoring  order  and  peace  in 
China.  He  was  believed  by  many  to  have  possessed  a 
charmed  life,  so  eventful  had  been  his  career.  In  the  late 
war,  just  ended  in  the  Soudan,  Gen.  Gordon  was  besieged 
in  Khartoum  by  the  rebels,  against  whom  he  fought  in  a 
death  struggle  for  months  and  months  without  relief. 
Finally  the  Gladstone  or  Home  Government  dispatched 
an  expedition  under  Gen.  Wolseley  up  the  Nile  for  the  re- 
lief of  Khartoum;  but  before  it  reached  its  destination, 
fighting  its  way  through  the  desert,  news  was  received  by 
the  British  forces  that  Khartoum  had  fallen,  and  that  the 
dauntless  hero  had  been  butchered  in  the  palace  by  the 
treason  of  one  of  his  trusted  followers. 


GEN.  CHARLES  GEORGE   GORDON. 


(517) 


518  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

CHAPTER  L. 

RAMBLES — SIGHT-SEEING  AND  FUNG  SHUEY. 
/DOMING  home  last  night,  Dr.  Allen  remarked,  as  we 
\J  passed  by  an  electric  motor :  "  When  the  electric  light 
was  first  introduced  here,  it  would  have  amused  you  to 
watch  the  Chinaman  run  up  a  ladder  and  wait  to  see  how 
the  candles  were  lighted.  He  could  not  understand  how 
they  could  be  lit  without  matches.  Presently  it  would  flash 
right  in  his  face.  'Devil pigeon!'  he  would  exclaim;  'devil 
pigeon ! '  and  down  he  came." 

When  the  English  steamers  first  appeared  in  Chinese 
wraters  the  Chinese  built  a  boat  just  like  them,  painted  eyes 
in  the  bow,  and  launched  it;  but  it  would  not  go.  They 
were  perfectly  astounded.  They  had  no  idea  about  ma- 
chinery. They  thought  it  ought  to  go  anyhow. 

One  morning  after  breakfast  we  started  on  a  pedestrian 
tour  in  the  country  in  the  rear  of  the  city,  sight-seeing.  A 
number  of  familiar-looking  trees  soon  attracted  my  atten- 
tion. The  China-tree,  with  its  blooms  and  berries,  looked 
like  an  old  friend.  Here  it  is  dignified  with  the  name  of 
Empress  of  India,  \vhich  suggests  it  must  have  originally 
come  from  that  country.  The  mulberry,  willow,  cypress, 
pine,  elm,  cedar,  arbor  vita3,  peach-tree,  pibo  (Japan  plum), 
all  indicated  the  latitude  of  Middle  Georgia.  The  tallow- 
tree  and  camphor-tree  were  among  the  exceptions.  Tallow 
is  obtained  from  the  berries,  while  camphor  comes  from 
boiling  the  small  twigs,  leaves,  etc.,  of  that  tree.  Formo- 
sa, which  is  the  West  Indies  of  China,  produces  the  best 
camphor-gum.  But  the  wood  is  sawed  into  lumber  for 
furniture,  boxes,  chairs,  and  every  thing.  A  camphor-box 
is  proof  against  moths* 

In  the  rear  of  the  city  were  large  pyramidal  straw  houses 
used  for  storing  ice.  The  paddy-fields  are  as  remunerative 


Sight-seeing  in  City  and  Country.  519 

in  winter  as  they  are  in  summer.  The  ice  is  broken  up 
in  the  fields  and  floated  into  these  houses.  It  is  largely 
used  in  summer  in  shipping  fish  in  junks  from  the  coast  to 
Suchow  and  Shanghai.  For  a  hundred  miles  square  around 
Shanghai  the  rich  alluvial  bottoms,  a  few  feet  above  the 
sea,  are  cultivated  like  a  garden.  Two  or  three  crops  are 
grown  on  the  same  beds  at  the  same  time.  The  highlands 
are  planted  in  beds  four  to  six  feet  wide.  I  saw  young  cot- 
ton sown  broadcast  in  the  wheat,  a  few  weeks  ago,  up  three 
inches  high.  In  a  few  days  the  wheat  will  be  taken  off 
and  the  hoes  will  go  through  this  cotton  crop  weeding 
out.  The  cotton  will  be  followed  by  broad  beans.  This  is 
the  rotation  on  the  highlands:  First  year,  wheat;  second 
year,  cotton ;  third  year,  beans.  Lowlands  are  planted 
in  rice  the  first  year,  followed  the  second  and  third  years 
by  cotton  and  wheat.  V/heat  comes  off  1st  to  10th  of 
June;  ground  is  broken  up  by  bullocks  (buffalo  cows), 
flooded,  harrowed,  fertilized,  and  rice  transplanted  from 
beds.  The  rice-beds  being  sown  in  April,  the  plants  are 
four  or  five  inches  high  by  June,  and  their  growth  is 
scarcely  retarded  by  transplanting.  We  examined  a  water- 
wheel  made  of  bamboo,  with  rim,  buckets,  and  all  complete, 
worked  by  a  bullock  in  the  same  way  described  in  Egypt. 
It  flooded  the  crops  from  a  canal.  Hold  your  nose  a 
few  minutes;  we  are  going  through  a  field  of  guano-fac- 
tories —  manure  sinks.  My  nose  had  been  naturalized 
in  the  old  city,  but  when  the  guano  distributors  were 
set  in  motion,  the  men  were  told  with  a  bland  smile  to 
hold  up  or  hold  down  until  we  could  pass.  These  are 
brought  from  the  villages  and  city  every  day,  distributed 
in  barrels  or  sinks  over  these  fertile  acres  before  they  are 
applied  broadcast.  Whenever  a  crop  of  any  description  is 
planted,  the  liquids  are  applied.  They  are  applied  to  the 
gvowing  crops  of  rice  as  well.  Thus  every  foot  of  land  cul- 


520  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

tivated  is  first  enriched.  The  broad  bea-ns  are  planted 
largely,  fed  to  stock  and  eaten  by  the  people.  Indian  corn 
grows  well;  but  I  don't  think  it  is  used  much.  The 
wheat  is  all  of  a  bearded  variety,  like  the  Egyptian.  It 
grows  in  the  same  fields  along-side  of  rice,  and  does  not  seem 
to  rust.  tBut  the  quality  is  not  so  good  as  American,  nor 
does  it  appear  to  make  fine  flour  on  the  little  millstones  of  the 
natives.  This  laud  is  wrorth  seven  hundred  dollars  per 
acre,  producing  three  or  four  crops  a  year.  Dr.  Allen  in- 
quired for  me  of  one  man,  "  How  much  laud  you  work?" 
"  One  acre  and  three-quarters,  sir."  "  How  many  in  fam- 
ily?" "Seven."  "Make  good  living?"  "Tight  squeeze," 
says  the  Chinaman.* 

Arriving  at  a  village,  wre  saw7  piles  of  straw  in  front  of 
the  houses,  a  few  domestic  animals  tied  up,  capon  chick- 
ens scratching  about,  and  ducks  swimming  in  the  canal. 
A  sneaking  cur  got  wind  of  our  approach  and  set  up  a  fear- 
ful yelling.  A  woman  invited  us  to  take  a  bench,  which 
we  accepted ;  but  she  never  stopped  spinning.  She  worked 
both  pedals  with  her  feet,  which  ran  a  belt  over  three  spin- 
dles and  spun  three  threads  at  once.  This  is  done  in  a  sitting 
posture.  As  they  have  no  cards,  it  was  wonderful  what 
skill  she  employed  in  attenuating  the  batted  cotton.  The 
cotton  is  picked  off  or  separated  by  roller  gins,  and  whipped 
with  a  stick  arrangement  until  its  fiber  unites,  as  in  card- 
ing. It  is  then  spun.  All  the  crop  of  China  is  manufact- 
ured at  home. 

Everywhere  you  see  thread  in  warp.  Often  in  the  same 
house  they  spin  and  wreave  the  coarse  cloth  that  is  worn  by 
the  family.  The  warp  is  stretched  out  on  pegs  in  a  frame 
at  full  length,  much  like  our  mothers  used  to  do  it.  Hun- 
dreds of  years  ago  the  people  wore  silk,  but  that  is  too 
costly  now,  only  for  the  wealthy.  Cotton  wras  cultivated 
about  Nankin  before  our  Saviour  was  born. 

*  I  have  heard  of  people  who  could  hardly  make  a  living  on  a  big  plantation. 


Sight-seeing  in  City  and  Country.  521 

A  little  farther  on  there  was  a  tremendous  noise  of  some 
sort,  which  we  could  hear,  but  could  not  see.  It  was  evi- 
dently seditious  or  revolutionary  in  its  character,  from  the 
incongruities  of  sounds.  We  had  better  retrograde;  but 
the  Doctor  assured  me  it  was  a  school  in  session,  and  we 
hurried  on.  Arriving  at  the  door  of  the  academy,  which 
consisted  of  a  thatched  bamboo  hut  with  a  dirt  floor,  we 
found  the  teacher  fast  asleep.  The  school  was  taking  a  weld- 
ing heat  on  their  last  lessons.  The  boys  and  girls  were  all 
standing  up  with  their  backs  to  the  recumbent  school- 
master studying  away  at  the  top  of  their  voices.  It  looked 
just  a  trifle  indifferent  in  us  to  arouse  the  old  gentleman — 
but  the  children  stopped  suddenly  on  our  entrance,  which 
must  have  alarmed  him,  and  up  he  jumped  with  a  pair  of 
big  red  eyes.  He  invited  us  to  be  seated ;  and  after  getting 
them  adjusted,  in  the  appalling  silence  of  the  school-room 
he  answered  several  very  polite  questions  propounded  by 
the  Doctor. 

Across  the  ditches  and  canals  there  wrere  long  stone  slabs 
ten  to  twenty  feet  in  length,  for  pedestrians.  Bamboo  grew 
in  groups  about  the  villages,  and  bamboo-shoots,  young  and 
tender,  furnished  the  epicures  with  a  delicious  esculent  on 
their  tables. 

Returning  to  the  city,  we  walked  a  mile  or  more  down  the 
abandoned  bed  of  the  ojily  railroad  line  ever  built  in  China. 
There  was  some  dispute  between  the  English  company — 
who  had  secured  a  charter  for  running  horse-cars  from 
Shanghai  down  to  Wusung,  mouth  of  the  river — and  the 
Chinese  authorities  about  a  violation  of  their  chartered 
rights.  The  English  got  tired  of  horses,  and  hitched  on  a 
steam-engine.  All  of  China  became  indignant  over  the 
supposed  outrage.  This  was  only  seven  or  eight  years  ago. 
The  controversy  that  arose  in  consequence,  between  Pekin 
and  the  Court  of  St.  James,  resulted  in  the  purchase  by  the 


522  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Chinese  Government  of  the  road  and  its  franchises,  with  full 
remuneration  for  loss  to  the  company.  I  had  heard  the 
Government  had  sunk  the  iron  in  the  bottom  of  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean  ;  but  they  had  simply  moved  it  over  into  Corea, 
That  iron  is  just  waiting  to  come  back.  Before  they  took 
up  the  track  it  is  said  that  every  Chinaman  for  thirty  miles 
around  walked  down  and  took  a  ride  on  it.  I  thought  I 
could  hear  that  engine  coming  every  step  I  made  until 
we  had  reached  its  old  depot  or  station-house  in  the  city. 
In  front  of  its  massive  gates  there  was  an  immense  crowd 
assembled,  indicating  that  some  unusual  event  was  trans- 
piring inside  the  inclosure.  Dr.  Allen,  whispering  to  the 
guard,  motioned  to  me.  "Come,"  he  says,  "this  is  one  of 
the  most  notable  events  ever  celebrated  in  China."  "  What 
is  it,  Doctor?"  I  eagerly  inquired.  "Why,  the  Tai-tou  is 
celebrating  his  mother's  birthday;  a  rare  opportunity  to 
see  the  nobility!"  "But  how  can  we  get  in?  I  suppose 
they  are  all  invited  guests."  "  Yes,  that  is  the  trouble." 

There  were  thousands  of  curious  spectators  outside  of 
the  building  looking  on  in  perfect  amazement.  Again  ad- 
dressing the  guard  in  Chinese,  we  both  passed  into  the  first 
court,  and  approaching  the  grand  entrance  to  a  large  build- 
ing the  second  guard  swung  back  the  doors,  which  admitted 
us  to  full  view  of  forty  Chinese  noblemen  and  their  ladies. 
The  Tai-tou  was  there,  I  suppose ;  his  mother  I  did  not  recog- 
nize. But  the  nobility  of  the  empire  sat  around  marble- 
top  tables  sipping  tea,  eating  sweets,  fruit,  etc.  I  observed 
one  and  two  button  mandarins,  with  red,  blue,  gilt,  crystal, 
and  white  balls  on  the  top  of  their  caps  to  denote  the  class 
to  which  they  belonged.  The  imposing  retinue  of  servants , 
wore  about  as  many  airs  as  their  masters.  It  was  difficult 
for  me  to  distinguish  them  at  times.  Some  of  the  manda- 
rins were  standing  about  in  groups,  others  sitting  as  de- 
scribed. A  number  were  indulging  in  the  pipe,  their  ladies 


Sight-seeing  in  City  and  Country. 


523 


being  seated  opposite  to  us,  across  the  court,  under  the  gal- 
lery that  extended  all  round.  Across  this  open  space  the 
eyes  of  the  nobility  were  upturned,  looking  at  a  theatrical 
performance  going  on  for  their  amusement.  The  troupe  was 
from  Pekiu,  and  no  doubt  had  often  played  before  the 
Emperor  at  the  palace.  They  were  performing  on  a  raised 
platform  twenty  feet  above  the  ground.  Occasionally  the 
mandarins  gave  a  guffaw,  and  then  resumed  their  pipes. 


THE   ORCHESTRA. 

The  troupe  consisted  of  five  men  dressed  like  clowns.  They 
marched  in  and  out  of  an  ante-room  at  least  a  dozen  times, 
the  band  following.  Occasionally  they  would  halt  and  say 
something  funny.  The  mandarins  laughed.  At  last,  in 
the  triumphant  pose  of  his  majestic  body,  Macbeth,  stopped 


524  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

at  the  head  of  the  troupe,  faced  his  audience,  drew  his  sword 
in  the  wildest  excitement,  and  brought  down  his  antagonist 
at  a  single  stroke.  Presently  the  dead  man  arose.  "  What! 
shouted  Macbeth ;  "  I  strike  thee  down  with  my  sword,  and 
yet  thou  livest?"  This  brought  down  the  house.  Every- 
body roared,  except  the  uninvited  guest  and  the  ladies. 
The  tom-tom *or  band  of  music,  just  "took  the  cake." 

The  gentlemen  wore  silk  robes  over  silk  or  satin  trousers, 
summer  caps  made  of  bamboo  hung  with  fringes  of  silk, 
and  on  their  breast  some  designation  of  rank.  Each  cap 
had  a  ball  on  top;  and  their  baggy  trousers  were  gathered 
above  silk  slippers  or  shoes.  All  this  dress  is  prescribed 
semi-annually  by  the  "Board  of  Rites"  at  Pekin,  and  pub- 
lished in  the  Official  Gazette. 

The  ladies'  dress  consisted  of  short  loose  robes  confined 
around  the  throat  with  a  narrow  collar.  The  robe  is  worn 
over  a  long  full  skirt,  both  of  which  are  frequently  made 
of  richly  embroidered  silks.  The  sleeves  are  long  and  large 
enough  to  fall  over  the  hands;  while  the  hair  is  gathered  up 
in  a  knot  on  top  of  their  heads,  and  fastened  with  golden 
bodkins  and  adorned  with  flowers.  They  all  wore  trousers, 
shoes  of  satin,  silk,  or  velvet,  beautifully  worked  with  gold, 
silver,  and  colored  silks.  The  little  girls'  short  dresses  reach 
up  to  their  throats  and  fall  over  full  trousers.  Their  hair, 
combed  from  their  foreheads,  hangs  down  in  plaits  on  each 
side  until  they  become  brides,  when  the  braids  and  curls 
are  formed  into  knots,  intermixed  with  flowers  and  jewels. 
Dr.  Allen  personally  knew  several  of  the  mandarins,  whose 
agreeable  smiles  he  recognized  on  several  occasions.  There 
were  men  of  great  dignity  and  impressive  personal  appear- 
ance here,  with  immense  goggles  on.  This  was  a  good 
piece  of  Fung  Skuey  (lucti)  for  the  close  of  the  day's  ram- 
bling. 

China  is  a  land  of  superstition,  hobgoblins,  good  and  evil 

*It  makes  all  the  cranky,  crazy  sounds  that  were  ever  heard.  A  Chinese 
Minister  at  Washington  was  once/asked  how  lie.  liked  Gilmore's  Orchestra. 
"  O !  ''  he  replied,  "  the  first  part  was  just  splendid !  "—alluding  to  the  tuning- 
up  part. 


Sight-seeing  in  City  and  Country. 


525 


spirits.  Everybody  believes  in  these,  from  the  three-button 
mandarin  down  to  the  coolie.  A  gentle  breeze  brings  long 
life  and  happiness  from  the  south;  but  the  north  wind  is 
blown  by  the  devil,  and  brings  sickness  and  death.  When 
it  thunders  in  China  it  is  a  sign  the  Emperor's  ministers 
are  quarreling;  when  it  is  foggy,  the  women  are  meddling 


FUNG   SHL'KV. 


with  private  and  public  affairs.  Have  you  ever  noticed  the 
number  of  pretty  days  we  have  in  Georgia?  But  there  are 
many  of  our  people  who  believe  in  Fung  Shuey.  Yes, 
American  people.  They  see  evil  spirits  about  their  grave- 
yards, hang  horseshoes  over  their  doors  to  keep  them  out; 
carry  rabbit's  foot  in  their  vest-dockets ;  won't  cross  a  road 
if  they  see  a  rabbit  cross  it,  because  it 's  bad  Fung  Shuey  I 
Then  we  call  Chinese  heathens,  and  they  call  us  barbarians 
and  foreign  devils.  "  If  you  were  not  barbarians  you  would 
not  kill  our  people  in  America,  batter  down  our  walls  here 
•with  your  cannon,  destroy  our  people  with  opium,  and  kill 


52G  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

our  wives  and  children.  We  do  n't  trouble  you.  We  pro- 
tect ycur  people  here  under  our  treaties;  but  your  people 
murder  ours  in  America," 

Fung  Shuey  literally  means  "wind  and  water."  These 
spirits,  or  wind,  move  in  a  straight  line.  The  people  build 
Avails  in  front  of  their  gates  to  arrest  them — keep  them 
out.  Trade  gets  bad  in  a  town,  business  declines,  the  doc- 
tors hold  a  council  to  investigate  the  causes.  One  morning 
they  found  the  wall,  or  gate,  down  where  the  devil  got  in. 
The  wall  was  repaired,  and  business  revived  at  once. 

Confucius  was  a  remarkable  man.  He  was  born  five 
hundred  and  forty-nine  years  before  Christ;  collected  and 
wrote  the  five  books  of  prose  and  poetry  which  are  uni- 
versally studied  to  this  day  by  the  Chinese  as  sacred  vol- 
umes. His  system  is  one  of  morality  more  than  religion, 
inculcating  obedience  of  children  to  parents,  founding 
upon  this  theory  the  whole  structure  of  the  Government. 
In  these  teachings  he  lays  down  the  duties  of  the  sovereign 
as  well  as  of  the  subject ;  and  while  he  exhorts  the  people 
to  obey  the  Emperor  as  their  father,  he  is  exhorted  to  care 
for  his  people  as  he  would  his  children.  Confucius  was  the 
Martin  Luther  of  his  times,  for  his  sayings,  maxims,,  mor- 
als, and  philosophy  are  taught  in  every  school-room,  home, 
and  college,  forming  the  basis  of  all  their  knowledge,  from 
his  time  down  to  the  present  day.  He  is  worshiped  by  the 
literary  classes  as  the  most  wise  and  holy  one.  The  people 
use  no  pictures  or  images  as  the  Buddhists  do  in  worshiping 
Confucius  in  their  temples.  To  his  teachings  we  must  trace 
ancestral  worship,  in  which  he  believed  himself.  Worship 
of  ancestors,  or  the  dead,  and  Fung  Shuey  are  the  two  great 
causes  to-day  that  oppose  all  foreign  intervention — Chris- 
tianity, colleges,  railroads,  telegraph-poles,  the  working  of  the 
coal-mines,  and  innovation  of  all  foreigners.  Every  port 
that  has  been  opened  and  every  treaty  negotiated  has  been 


Sightseeing  in  City  and  Country.  527 


wrung  at  the  cannon's  mouth,  in  consequence  of  this  super- 
stition, of  traditional  customs,  and  horror  of  disturbing  the 
departed  spirits, 

The  whole  empire  is  a  grave-yard.  Fung  Shuey  affects 
the  dead  as  well  as  the  living ;  hence  every  effort  to  protect 
the  graves  from  evil  influences.  In  digging  the  railroad, 
suppose  the  spade  decapitates  some  venerated  friend  in 
these  ancestoral  burial-grounds — the  headless  ghost  would 
then  wander  about  in  the  land  of  darkness,  when  the  retri- 
bution of  disease  and  death  would  be  visited  upon  the  mis- 
creants who  had  permitted  such  sacrilege.  This  worship 
of  the  dead  is  the  chief  religion  of  the  empire.  Filial  rev- 
erence is  religion. 

The  Chinese  believe  this  is  the  world  of  light — after  this 
is  the  world  of  darkness;  that  the  dead,  or  those  in  the 
spirit-world,  can  look  out  or  down  in  this  world  and  behold 
the  deeds  of  the  living.  Those  living  here  in  the  light  can- 
not see  in  the  darkness.  The  people  live  in  constant  fear 
of  the  dead.  A  son  worships  at  the  grave  of  his  father, 
who  rewards  him  with  health  and  prosperity.  Up  there 
the  father  needs  food,  clothing,  sampans,  his  hoe,  rake, 
and  plow,  boats,  chickens,  rice,  ducks,  and  fish,  just  as  he 
needed  them  down  here.  As  his  father  is  in  the  invisible 
world,  these  articles,  made  out  of  paper,  wood,  etc.,  must  be 
burned  into  ashes  at  the  temples  and  sent  to  the  other  world 
in  an  invisible  state. 

Some  writer  has  observed:  "In  China  a  man  endowed 
with  much  forethought  can  make  some  provision  for  his 
own  future  comfort."  The  priests  have  considerately  organ- 
ized a  bank  for  the  spirit-world.  To  this  the  provident 
may  remit  large  sums  during  their  life-time,  and  can  draw 
on  the  bank  as  soon  as  they  reach  the  dark  country.  The 
priests  periodically  announce  their  intention  of  remitting 
money  on  a  certain  day,  and  invite  all  who  have  any  to 


528 


deposit  to  bring  it.  All  who  feel  doubtful  of  the  generosity 
of  their  next  heirs  accordingly  come  and  buy  from  the 
priests  as  much  as  they  can  afford  of  the  tin-foil  paper 
money  which  is  current  among  the  spirits.  It  is  an  excel- 
lent investment,  as  for  a  handful  of  brass  cash,  altogether 
worth  about  one- penny,  they  will  receive  sycee — i.  e.,  the 
boat-shaped  blocks  of  silvery-looking  tin-foil,  bearing  a 
spiritual  value  of  thirty  dollars. 


REMEMBERING  DEPARTED  FRIENDS. 

Paper  houses,  furniture,  and  clothes  may  in  like  manner 
be  purchased  and  stored  beforehand,  in  the  happy  security 
that  neither  moth  nor  rust  shall  corrupt  them,  neither  shall 
thieves  break  through  and  steal  them.  When  the  depositor 


Sight-seeing  in  City  and  Country.  529 

(probably  a  poor  coolie  or  an  aged  beggar)  lias  invested 
his  little  savings  in  this  precious  rubbish  in  the  ecclesias- 
tical bazar  he  delivers  it  to  the  priest,  together  with  a  sum 
of  real  money  as  commission.  For  this  the  priest  gives  a 
written  receipt.  All  this  din  is  thrown  into  a  large  boat. 
It  is  a  frame-work  of  reeds  with  a  bamboo  mast,  and  its 
sails  and  planking  are  of  paper.  When  all  the  depositors 
have  made  their  payments,  the  priests  walk  several  times 
'around  the  boat,  chanting  some  incantation,  then  simulta- 
neously, set  fire  to  both  ends,  and  the  paper  fabric  vanishes 
in  a  flash  of  flame.  The  priests  bid  the  depositors  keep 
their  certificates  with  all  care,  and  give  them  to  some  trust- 
worthy person  to  Taurn  after  their  decease,  whereupon  the 
said  certificates  will  reach  them  safely. 

The  Emperor  is  divine;  he  reigns  in  heaven  as  well  as  on 
earth.  The  invisible  \vorld  is  a  counterpart  of  China,  with 
its  Government  administered  by  the  Emperor,  court,  min- 
isters, prefects,  viceroys,  etc.,  just  the  same.  The  Empercr 
represents  the  Pontiff  of  Rome,  and  can  intercede  or  come 
between  the  people  of  this  and  the  other  world. 

The  people  worship  the  gods  in  each  magisterial  district 
with  a  view  of  propitiating  them  in  behalf  of  some  of  their 
dead  friends.  In  prefects  the  jurisdiction  is  larger,  and 
they  worship  on  up  until  it  comes  to  addressing  the  Em- 
peror. If  they  should  neglect  the  dead,  they  believe  they 
will  be  punished  for  it.  If  a  Chinaman  dies  in  California  or 
Australia,  he  wants  to  be  brought  home,  where  his  friends 
can  provide  for  him.  Three  festivals  a  year  are  celebrated 
at  the  temples  in  honor  of  those  who  have  no  father,  moth- 
er, or  friends  to  look  after  them. 

China,  with  its  four  hundred  and  twenty  millions,  is  an 
inert  mass,  it  has  been  said.  It  cannot  be  moved  from  with- 
in; it  must  be  moved  from  without.  The  Bible  mission- 
aries, railroads,  telegraph  wires,  steam-boats,  telephones, 


530  Around  the  World  in  1SS£. 

electricity,  hospitals,  arsenals,  and  school-houses  are  among 
the  potent  factors  that  will  accomplish  for  China  what  is 
being  done  in  Japan,  and  what  has  already  been  accom- 
plished in  India.  Brahmanism,  caste,  prejudices,  and  sacred 
bulls,  in  India;  Fung  Shuism,  ancestral  worship,  supersti- 
tion, and  traditions,  in  China,  must  yield  to  superior  forces 
of  modern  civilization.  When  the  locomotive-whistle  goes 
screaming  through  this  empire  of  grave-yards  (which  it 
will  and  must  do),  breaking  up  "these  chains  which  bind 
the  living  to  the  dead,"  the  sunlight  of  hope  that  is  tinge- 
ing  her  mountain-brows  will  flood  the  valleys  of  China  with 
the  cries  of  redeemed  millions.  This  may  be  a  work  of 
years,  and  even  ages.  But  we  cannot  remain  idle;  it  is  an 
effort  worthy  of  our  highest  ambition.  The  Bible  and  the 
missionary  will  yet  be  triumphant. 


CHAPTER    LI. 

MISSION  WORK — ANGLO-CHINESE  COLLEGE. 

'""PHE  first  effort  at  introducing  the  Protestant  religion  was 
JL  made  by  Dr.  Morrison,  in  1807.  He  had  first  to  ac- 
quire the  language,  translate  the  Bible;  and  then  to  the 
Chinese  it  was  incomprehensible.  '"The  beginning  of  the 
gospel  of  Jesus  Christ,  the  Son  of  God,"  .Mr.  Kevins 
says,  rendered  according  to  the  Chinese  idiom,  reads  thus: 
"  God's  Son,  Jesus  Christ,  gospel  beginning."  As  they  had 
thousands  of  deities  of  their  own,  they  thought  God  sug- 
gested as  many  more.  Gospel  translated  meant  "happiness 
and  sound."  It  was  seven  years  before  Morrison  had  the 
first  convert,  and  twenty-eight  years  later  before  a  church 
was  founded.  The  Opium  War  came  on  then,  which  preju- 
diced the  people  against  all  foreigners  and  their  religion. 
This  was  in  1844.  The  Protestants  now  claim  twenty-five 


Mlmon  Work — Anglo- Chinese  College.  531 

thousand  converts,  and  the  Catholics  nearly  one  million. 
The  latter  denomination  has  been  at  work  here  many  hun- 
dred years.  About  two  centuries  ago  their  property  was 
all  confiscated  and  the  Jesuits  driven  out  of  the  country 
for  alleged  political  intrigue  against  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment ;  but  several  years  ago  the  discovery  of  some  old  deeds 
reinstated  millions  of  property  throughout  the  empire  to 
these  influential  Christian  people  by  treaty.  The  fathers  of 
the  Church  adopt  the  cues  and  Chinese  costume,  and  build 
houses  like  the  Chinese,  some  say,  just  to  please  the  people, 

I  regret  my  inability  to  visit  the  immense  Catholic  estab- 
lishment at  Sikawie,  near  the  city,  where  there  are  over  one 
thousand  people,  about  seven  hundred  of  whom  are  receiv- 
ing instruction  from  the  fathers  and  sisters.  It  is  a  wonder- 
ful institution,  composed  of  a  foundling  hospital,  schools, 
and  even  a  mad-house — buildings  which  cover  one  hundred 
acres  of  ground.  In  connection  is  an  observatory  for  mak- 
ing meteorological  observations;  while  in  the  city  is  a  pyro- 
technic institution  that  exhibits  the  workings  of  the  tele- 
graph, with  much  fine  apparatus  for  illustration,  compound- 
ing, etc.,  in  the  doctor-shop.  A  large  revenue  derived  from 
valuable  real  estate  in  Shanghai  supports  the  institution. 
The  Catholics  are  certainly  doing  a  great  work  here,  wor- 
thy of  their  highest  ambition. 

Of  the  Protestants,  the  Baptists — with  Dr.  Lord  at 
Ningpo,  and  Dr.  Matthew  Yates  in  Shanghai — are  among 
the  most  distinguished  workers  and  scholars  in  China.  Dr. 
Lord  some  years  ago  first  obtained  consent  of  the  Chinese 
girls  at  his  school — in  ftict  made  it  a  condition  of  attendance 
— that  they  should  unbind  their  feet.  The  parents  objected 
at  first;  "their  daughters  could  never  marry  without  small 
feet."  But  Dr.  Lord  triumphed ;  and  the  girls,  growing  up, 
married  as  well  as  any  others.  This  was  a  wonderful  step 
in  advance,  which  hi:::-  been  fraught  with  good  results. 


532  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

The  Presbyterian  Church  of  the  South  has  been  represent- 
ed here  for  some  years  by  Mr.  Davis,  Mr.  Dubose,  and  Miss 
Saffold,  and  Stewart,  Painter,  and  Helm,  of  the  Suchow 
and  Hangchow  dictricts.  The  Chinese  graduate  the  social 
status  of  our  missionary  women  according  to  their  own. 
As  all  their  women  are  either  married  or  concubines,  they 
cannot  understand  the  relation  of  an  unmarried  lady  in  a 
married  man's  family.  I  have  heard  our  missionary  girls 
have  had  to  bear  many  hard  epithets  from  the  common 
people. 

We  visited  the  Seventh-day  Baptist,  Mr.  Davis,  and  the 
Bridgman  Home,  on  the  edge  of  the  city,  called  West  Gate. 
Miss  E.  M.  McKeetchnie  received  us  with  great  cordial- 
ity at  the  Home.  After  serving  delightful  tea  and  cake, 
this  estimable  lady  (from  one  of  our  Northern  States)  or- 
ganized her  school  to  entertain  us  writh  agreeable  exercises 
of  music,  needle-work,  etc.  These  bright  little  Chinese  girls 
were  neatly  dressed,  with  unbound  feet.  Dr.  Allen  spoke  in 
the  highest  praise  of  this  school.  Both  Chinese  and  En- 
glish, I  believe,  are  being  taught.  Miss  McKeetchnie's  lady 
companion  was  absent  on  a  visit  to  America. 

I  propose  now  to  give  our  Methodist  people  of  the  South 
the  results  of  my  personal  observations  and  investigation  of 
their  schools  and  mission  work  in  China.  I  had  traveled 
two-thirds  around  the  globe  without  meeting  a  single  mis- 
sionary from  the  South,  until  I  reached  Shanghai.  Here 
is  the  nucleus,  or  base,  of  the  only  representative  Church 
work  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  South,  on  this 
side  of  the  Pacific.  Well  may  we  feel  proud  of  it,  for  it  is 
a  grand  monument  to  the  self-sacrifices  and  labors  of  conse- 
crated men  and  wromen  who  are  buried  here,  and  to  those 
living,  toiling,  patient  workers  who  are  illustrating  the 
spirit  of  the  gospel,  and  winning  for  themselves  a  crown 
of  immortality  in  heaven.  In  1848  Taylor  and  Jenkins, 


Mission  Work— Anglo- Chinese  College.  533 

our  first  missionaries,  landed  at  Shanghai ;  then  Cunnyngham 
in  1852.  For  two  years  he  was  alone — Jenkins  had  come 
home  in  the  meantime,  and  returned  with  Messrs.  Lambuth, 
Kelley,  and  Belton  as  reinforcements.  Bel  ton  died  on  his 
way  home  in  1855 ;  and  the  following  year  Kelley  returned. 
In  1860  Dr.  Young  J.  Allen  and  Mr.  Word  arrived.  From 
1866  to  1875  Drs.  Lambuth  and  Allen  were  our  only  rep- 
resentatives, when  Parker  arrived ;  since  then,  W.  R.  Lam- 
buth and  Miss  L.  Rankin,  in  1878;  C.  F.  Reid  and  Miss 
D.  Rankin,  in  1879 ;  Royall,  Loehr.  and  McLain,  in  1880— 
the  latter,  remaining  only  two  months,  returned  and  died ; 
and  Park,  Anderson,  Mingledorff,  and  Miss  Anna  Muse, 
in  1882.  In  the  fall  of  1884,  Professor  W.  B.  Bonnell, 
Miss  Laura  A.  Haygood,  with  Miss  Dona  Hamilton  and 
Miss  Jennie  Atkinson,  arrived  at  Shanghai. 

From  the  subjoined  official  report  of  1885  the  subdivis- 
ion of  the  various  works  may  be  observed  under  the  heading 
of  three  presiding  elders'  districts,  viz.,  Shanghai,  Nantzi- 
ang,  and  Suchow.  The  extracts  show  the  statistics,  health  of 
the  Mission,  and  last  appointments  for  the  year  preceding: 

"  STATISTICS. — The  following  comprise  the  statistics  of  the 
China  Mission  to  December  31,  1884,  viz.:  Male  mission- 
aries, 12 — 2  being  absent;  female  missionary,  1;  Woman's 
Missionary  Society  missionaries,  9 ;  stations  where  mission- 
aries reside,  3;  out-stations,  6;  communicants,  163 — male 
75,  female  88;  self-supporting  church,  1;  probationers,  56; 
Anglo-Chinese  schools,  2 — pupils,  269 ;  foreign  teachers,  5 ; 
native  teachers,  7 ;  boys'  boarding-school,  1 — pupils  55 ; 
boys'  day-schools,  8 — pupils,  127;  girls'  boarding-schools,  3 
— pupils  107;  girls'  day-schools,  8 — pupils,  114;  Sunday- 
schools,  14 — pupils,  478;  ordained  native  preachers,  3; 
unordained  preachers,  6;  colporteurs  and  helpers,  5;  Bible- 
women,  3;  church-buildings,  7 — value  $11,300,  sittings 
1,270;  rented  chapels,  14— sittings,  870;  male  hospital,  1 


534  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

—value,  $10,000;  in-patients,  272,  out-patients,  11,587; 
medical  students,  8;  periodicals  published,  1,100;  books 
and  periodicals  distributed,  16,226;  contribution  of  na- 
tive Church,  $198 ;  total  value  of  Mission  property — Parent 
Board  $107,300,  Woman's  Board  of  Missions  $2$,200. 

"  HEALTH  OF  THE  MISSION. — From  sickness  and  alarms 
of  war  the  usual  operatives  of  the  Mission  have  suffered 
considerably  during  the  year.  Brother  Mingledorff  was 
disabled  for  several  months  in  the  spring  and  summer,  while 
toward  the  close  of  the  year  Brother  Eeid,  after  vainly 
striving  to  stave  off  such  a  necessity,  was  obliged,  in  obedience 
to  competent  medical  authority,  to  return  to  the  United 
States  with  his  family.  At  this  date,  however,  all  the  mis- 
sionaries and  their  families  are  well,  and  the  usual  work  is 
progressing  favorably.  God's  mercies  and  blessings  have 
been  signally  vouchsafed  us  amidst  all  our  trials  of  sickness 
and  other  interruptions,  and  to  him,  in  devout  acknowledg- 
ment of  his  great  grace,  would  we  reconsecrate  ourselves  for 
renewed  service  during  the  year  which  is  just  before  us. 

"  In  conclusion,  we  cannot  forbear  a  further  and  emphat- 
ic reference  to  our  call  for  more  laborers.  On  the  'sent' 
was  never  a  higher  distinction  conferred  than  that  of  being 
a  missionary  to  China,  nor  to  the  Church  a  grander  con- 
quest offered  than  awaits  achievement  in  the  conversion  of 
her  millions  to  Christ.  The  felt  and  longed-for  but  inartic- 
ulate desire  of  all  nations — the  gospel — is  now  the  desire 
and  need  of  China. 

"APPOINTMENTS. — Shanghai  District*  J.  W.  Lambuth, 
P.  E.  Shanghai,  O.  A.  Dukes.  Trinity  Church,  Sz  Tsz  Kia. 
Shanghai  Circuit,  to  be  supplied  (by  Tseu  Hoong).  Tsih 
Pau,  Lee  Bing  Zung.  Soong  Kong,  Dzuug  Yoong  Chung, 
Tsing-poo,  Dzung  Sau  Tsung.  Anglo-Chinese  College: 
W.  W.  Koyall,  Principal;  W.  B.  Bonnell,  G.  R.  Loehr, 
Miss  Anna  J.  Muse.  Woman's  Work :  Miss  Laura  A.  Hay- 

*On  the  establishment  of  the  Japan  Mission  in  1886,  Revs.  J.  W.  Lambuth, 
W.  R.  Lambuth,  and  O.  A.  Dukes  were  transferred  to  that  field,  and  stationed 
at  Kobe,  Japan. 


Mission  Work — Anglo-Chinese  College.  535 

good,  in  charge;  Miss  Dona  Hamilton,  Miss  Jennie  Atkin- 
son, assistants;  Miss  Anna  J.  Muse,  in  Anglo-Chinese  Col- 
lege (vide  above). 

"Nantziang  District.  O.  G.  Mingledorff,  P.  E.  Nantziang 
Circuit,  Sung  Kyung  Kwei.  Kadiug  and  Wongdu,  Dzung 
Tsing  San.  Pleasant  College,  Miss  Lochie  Rankin,  Princi- 
pal. Anglo-Chinese  and  Day  Schools,  Miss  Dora  Rankin, 
in  charge. 

"Suchow  District.  D.  L.  Anderson,  P.  E.  Nicholas  Church, 
Lee  Tsz  Nyi.  Hospital,  Dzau  Tsz  Zeh.  Buffington  Sem- 
inary and  Non  Toong  Gyan,  Tsa  Voong  Tsang.  Kwim 
San,  to  be  supplied.  Buffington  Seminary,  A.  P.  Parker. 
Hospital,  W.  R.  Lambuth;  W.  H.  Park,  absent.  Woman's 
AVork:  Boarding  and  Day  Schools,  etc.,  Mrs.  Parker  and 
Miss  L.  Philips.  Hospital :  Miss  Dr.  Mildred  Philips  in 
charge ;  Miss  Baldwin,  assistant.  General  Treasurer  of  the 
Mission,  O.  A.  Dukes.  Superintendent,  Young  J.  Allen." 

At  Shanghai  are  comprised  at  present  the  evangelistic 
work,  the  educational  (Anglo-Chinese  University)  and  wom- 
an's work.  There  is  one  self-supporting  church  here — Little 
Trinity,  the  munificent  gift  of  Hon.  L.  G.  Harris,  of  Athens, 
Ga.  There  are  numerous  chapels  in  the  walled  or  native 
city,  foreign  city,  and  distributed  throughout  the  districts. 

The  educational  work  comprises  at  present  the  wom- 
an's work,  the  premises  being  large  and  well  located,  with 
the  following  departments:  Boarding-school,  training-school 
for  Bible-women,  day-schools  for  boys  and  girls,  and  gen- 
eral visiting  work  from  house  to  house  among  the  women, 
having  in  view  the  establishment  of  a  high  school  or  col- 
lege of  a  similar  class  for  girls  and  young  ladies,  to  be  self- 
supporting.  This  woman's  work  will  be  in  charge  of  Miss 
Laura  A.  Haygood,  late  of  Trinity  Church,  Atlanta,  assist- 
ed by  a  staff  of  competent  workers;  for  this  feature  of  the 
work  will  be  the  best  ever  organized  or  put  in  operation. 


536  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

The  work  in  the  district  of  Nantziang  comprises  the 
evangelistic  and  woman's  work  combined.  Here  the  Misses 

O 

Rankin  have  established  a  large  and  nourishing  boarding- 
school  for  girls,  and  partly  self-supporting  school  for  boys,  the 
most  prominent  feature  being  the  easy  access  to  the  women, 
a  great  number  of  whom  attend  church  and  visit  the  schools. 

The  Suchow  district  comprises  a  missionary  community 
with  these  several  departments:  The  church,  theological 
and  boarding  school  for  boys  combined ;  also  a  large  hos- 
pital belonging  to  the  Parent  Board. 

Woman's  work  comprises  boarding-schools  for  girls  and 
day-schools  for  boys  and  girls,  a  projected  female  hospital, 
and  when  fully  equipped  in  its  several  departments  will  be 
perhaps  the  most  thoroughly  organized  of  any  missionary 
work  in  China.  I  will  observe  that  these  districts  have 
been  admirably  located,  and  at  present  only  needing  the 
necessary  reinforcements  that  have  been  called  for — more 
men  for  the  evangelistic  field  and  more  for  the  schools,  all 
of  which  are  now  in  operation,  but  lacking  the  men  to  meet 
the  demand.  It  has  been  found  that  an  increase  of  the 
native  preachers  is  unadvisable,  and  hence  the  urgent  de- 
mand on  home. 

The  chief  points  of  difference  between  our  Methodist  Mis- 
sion in  China  and  other  missions,  it  occurs  to  me,  may  be 
stated  as  follows:  First,  its  concentration;  second,  its  thor- 
ough organization ;  third,  mutual  cooperation  of  all  the  de- 
partments; fourth,  close  alliance  between  the  woman's  work 
and  Parent  Board's  work;  fifth,  its  embracement  of  all 
classes.  I  find  the  high  schools,  day-schools,  and  colleges 
patronized  by  people  able  to  pay ;  boarding  and  day  schools 
supported  by  mission  funds — poor  people,  properly  speak- 
ing; orphanage;  and  lastly  the  superior  equipment  in  the 
way  of  buildings,  comprising  residences,  churches,  hospitals ; 
and  finally  the  class  of  superior  men  and  women  being 


Mission  Work — Anglo- Chinese  College.  537 

called  to  the  field.  The  object  of  the  superintendent  being  to 
place  the  work  in  China  on  a  sound  and  enauring  basis, 
no  pains  are  spared  in  its  thorough  equipment,  or  in  its 
qualification  of  men. 

Yvlth  such  a  base  for  operations,  an  extended  sy:tcm  of 
canals  radiating  in  every  direction ;  with  cities,  towns,  and 
villages  five  to  ten  miles  apart,  and  four  or  five  cities  with 
five  hundred  thousand  to  one  million  inhabitants  each,  and 
one  hundred  miles  square  as  level  and  rich  as  the  Missis- 
sippi Valley — you  have  a  picture  presented  of  the  country 
immediately  accessible  to  Shanghai.  With  a  hundred  more 
laborers  in  this  promising  field,  the  work  most  gloriously 
begun  and  consolidated  within  a  radius  of  eighty  miles,  I 
believe  a  million  of  souls  could  soon  be  won  to  Christ. 

To  gi.ve  a  correct  idea  of  the  geographical  position  of  the 
splendid  grounds  and  buildings  comprising  the  Anglo- 
Chinese  University,  Dr.  Allen's  and  Prof.  RoyalPs  resi- 
dences, you  must  walk  five  minutes  north  of  the  Bund,  back 
of  the  American  settlement  and  broadside  the  English, 
down  a  street  between  high  brick  walls,  and  stop.  On  your 
left  are  about  four  acres  of  ground,  on  which  are  erected  two 
substantial  two-story  brick  residences,  and  on  the  right  three 
acres  of  ground,  from  which  rises  in  majestic  proportions 
the  Anglo-Chinese  University.  This  is  a  large  two-story 
brick  building,  with  hall  below  and  recitation-rooms  above, 
ornamented  in  front  with  magnificent  portico  and  Corin- 
thian columns  with  capitals.  The  two  lots,  including  the 
original  lot  (forty-one  mow),  about  seven  acres,  cost  $38,- 
667— worth  858,000  at  the  time  of  purchase,  cash  value. 
The  Chinese  gentleman,  a  man  of  immense  wealth,  gave 
Dr.  Allen  a  reduction  of  $19,333,  and  sent  him  a  dozen 
pupils  to  the  college  when  opened,  within  the  past  year. 
There  is  a  center  building  and  a  left  wing  contemplated  not 
yet  built.  Only  the  right  wing  is  shown  in  the  illustration. 


588 


Around  the  World  in  1S84. 


Work— Anglo-Chinese  College.  539 

Botli  English  and  Chinese  are  taught  in  the  college,  with 
an  attendance  of  t\vo  hundred  pupils.  If  the  university 
could  he  completed  it  would  be  filled  with  seven  hundred 
to  one  thousand  students.  The  college  is  patronized  by  the 
wealth  and  nobility  of  China ;  it  is  self-supporting.  And 
when  these  boys  go  out  into  the  different  provinces  they  fill 
places  of  honor  and  trust,  where  their  power  and  influence 
will  be  felt.  Twenty  per  cent,  of  the  boys  have  become 
Christians.  The  exercises  of  each  day  are  opened  with 
prayer;  Bible-reading  and  preaching  on  Sunday,  with 
prayer-meeting  once  a  week.  These  prayer-meetings  are 
entirely  voluntary,  yet  I  saw  Dr.  Allen's  drawing-rooms 
crowded  with  Chinese  boys,  dressed  in  silk  and  blue  blouses, 
each  wearing  a  cue.  A  number  have  professed  religion. 
Educate  them!  educate  them!  From  personal  observation 
I  declare  in  my  honest  judgment  this  is  the  key  that  opens 
the  riches  of  our  literature  and  Christianity  to  China's  idol- 
atrous millions.  Educate  the  Chinaman  in  the  genius  and 
spirit  of  our  civilization,  and  he  becomes  the  dominant  factor 
in  the  East.  He  learns  the  name  of  Jesus  and  the  wealth 
of  our  Bible,  and  knowledge  is  revealed  to  him.  He  bears 
the  glad  tidings  to  his  benighted  father  and  mother.  He 
fills  places  of  honor  and  trust  at  home  and  abroad.  He 
will  take  the  place  of  the  foreigner  in  his  custom-house, 
arsenal,  translation  department,  counting-room,  college, 
newspapers — everywhere.  China  is  at  present  compelled 
to  employ  foreigners  to  fill  all  the  offices  mentioned.  It 
will  not  be  so  long.  She  is  now  competing  with  the  for- 
eigners in  export  trade,  running  merchant  lines,  banking, 
etc.  A  number  of  the  boys  taught  by  Dr.  Allen  are  in  the 
diplomatic  service  abroad.  Education  is  our  hope  in  China. 
Hospitals,  woman's  work,  and  evangelical  work  will  crown 
our  efforts  with  triumph. 

On  several  occasions  I  attended  the  chapel  services  with 


540  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Dr.  Allen  and  Brother  Loehr.  They  had  fine  audiences 
and  attentive  listeners.  The  screen  in  front  of  the  chapel 
door,  the  continual  going  out  and  coming  in  of  the  Chinese, 
as  they  do  in  their  temple-worship,  strike  a  foreigner  with 
curious  interest.  The  blind  at  the  entrance  is  to  prevent  the 
idle  curiosity  of  loungers  or  street  pedestrians  which  would 
mistake  the  church  for  a  bar-room.  They  must  have  thought 
a  new  missionary  had  arrived  when  I  occupied  a  seat,  us- 
ually in  the  pulpit.  One  night  at  Little  Trinity  a  well- 
dressed,  handsome  young  Chinaman,  after  service,  ap- 
proached Brother  Loehr.  I  thought  we  had  another  con- 
vert. But  he  proposed  to  join  only  on  conditions — if  Brother 
Loehr  would  recommend  him  for  a  position  in  a  mercantile 
house  on  the  Bund!  He  walked  off,  looking  sorrowful. 
Hiring  them  to  attend  church,  giving  away  tracts,  etc.,  has 
been  stopped  by  our  denomination.  They  now  eagerly  buy 
every  thing  in  the  way  of  tracts,  Bibles,  etc.,  and  read  them 
when  they  have  to  pay  money. 

I  am  sorry  space  forbids  my  giving  an  account  of  a  most 
interesting  sermon  I  heard  Dr.  Allen  preach.  It  would  be 
highly  entertaining. 

In  conclusion,  I  want  to  commend  once  more  the  excel- 
lent methods  of  our  work — its  concentration  and  extension 
versus  the  scatteration  tactics  so  commonly  practiced  by 
other  denominations  in  China.  We  want  one  hundred  and 
fifty  more  missionaries — male  and  female,  lay,  clerical,  teach- 
ers and  preachers — to  develop  the  foundation  work  that  has 
been  so  wisely  laid.  We  want  old  Methodism  in  boats,  like 
it  was  once  enthroned  on  horseback  at  home — young  men 
and  ladies  of  settled  convictions,  who  are  willing  to  work 
awhile  and  wait  before  marrying.  We  must  add  more  to 
our  missionary  contributions,  so  that  these  workers  can  be 
sent  to  China.  Here  is  a  great  responsibility  presented  be- 
fore our  Church  and  people  worthy  of  their  most  serious 


Tea  Culture  and  Tiaffic.  541 

consideration.     The  time  has  come  when  every  man  is  ex- 
pected to  do  his  duty. 

I  think  one  of  the  most  devout  and  consecrated  Chris- 
tians I  ever  saw  is  the  venerable  bung  Zeu  Kong,  Chinese 
director  of  the  Anglo-Chinese  College.  He  is  seventy-eight 
years  of  age,  and  has  been  a  Christian  for  forty  years.  He 
is  a  very  learned  man,  having  translated  the  whole  Bible 
into  the  Chinese  language.  His  mother  is  still  living,  nine- 
ty-eight years  old. 

CHAPTER  LII. 

CULTIVATION  OF  TEA  AND  ITS  PREPARATION  FOR  MAR- 
KET —  LEARNING  THE  LANGUAGE. 


is  the  Chinese  for  tea.  The  Province  of  Fukien 
\J  produces  the  best  black  teas.  Bohea  is  the  name  of  the 
hills  on  which  it  grows.  It  is  a  species  of  camelia,  and  bears 
a  white  flower.  The  difference  in  the  teas  depends  on  the 
district,  the  season,  the  time  of  gathering,  the  manipula- 
tion, etc.,  as  I  observed  passing  Foochow.  The  first  or 
spring  leaves  are  quite  tender,  and  of  finer  flavor  than  the 
full-grown  summer  or  coarser  leaves  of  autumn.  The  plant 
here  does  not  yield  its  pickings  throughout  the  year  as  it 
does  in  Ceylon.  One-half  pound  of  dried  leaves  is  the 
product  of  one  bush  a  year  in  Fukien.  Small  farmers  and 
the  Buddhist  priests  are  the  principal  growers.  The  ther- 
mometer rarely  falls  below  forty-  four  degrees.  Black  teas 
and  green,  when  not  doctored,  are  really  grown  on  the  same 
variety  of  plants.  The  tea-plants,  ten  inches  high,  one 
year  old,  come  from  the  seed,  which  are  gathered  in  Octo- 
ber and  kept  in  sand  till  spring,  then  planted  in  beds.  Five 
to  six  plants  are  dropped  in  a  hole  four  feet  apart  each  way, 
made  with  a  long  knife. 

The  cultivation  is  with  a  hoe.     The  Chinese  propagate 


542 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


\ 


THE  YOUNG  PLANT. 


from  cuttings,  small  twigs,  which  they  plant  in  trenches  and 
then  transplant  to  their  gardens,  where  they  grow  five  feet 
high.  Tea-oil  is  extracted  from  the  seed.  Three  pickings 
a  year  in  China.  The  shrub  is  an  evergreen,  tenacious  of 
life,  and  grows  best  with  a  southern  aspect,  on  thin,  gravelly 
hill-sides. 


TRANSPLANTING. 


Tea  Culture  and  Traffic.  543 

Drawings  for  these  illustrations  were  made  by  a  Chinese 
artist,  and  are  very  correct  representations. 

After  the  leaves  are  gathered  and  wilted  on  bamboo 
trays,  they  are  rolled  into  balls  to  get  the  twist  in,  put 
in  kettles  or  pans  under  a  slow  heat  over  charcoal  fires. 
Once  heated,  they  are  thrown  on  a  mat,  rolled,  heated  again 
and  rolled.  Each  process  is  called  a  firing. 


FIRING  TEA. 

The  first  crop  of  tender  leaves  makes  the  finest  tea.  It 
is  sold  to  the  mandarins  and  wealthy  classes  at  home.  Rus- 
sia gets  the  second  best  overland,  England  the  third,  and 
America — well,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  but  I  believe  she  gets  the 
grounds  the  Chinese  fire  over  again,  colored  with  Prussian 
blue  (poison)  gypsum,  and  packed  in  with  their  feet.  Of 
course,  some  good  teas  are  sold  to  our  country;  but  they 
are  not  the  green  teas.  The  Chinese  say  Americans  won't 
buy  until  they  color  it  green. 

The  Chinaman  makes  his  tea  by  putting  the  leaves  in  a 
cup  and  pouring  hot  boiling  water  on,  which  barely  colors 
it.  The  cups  have  covers  to  fit  down  closely.  They  use  no 
milk  or  sugar  as  the  foreigners  do.  In  the  Chinese  stores 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


PACKING. 


and  shops  tea  is  kept  on  tap.  They  drink  it  instead  of 
water  through  the  day.  Spring  water,  they  say,  makes  the 
best  tea.  A  chop  of  tea  is  six  hundred  chests.  Samples  of 
a  chop  are  tested  in  commission  houses  in  Shanghai  by  ex- 
perts who  taste  the  different  qualities.  Each  chop  is  taken 
by  the  sample.  You  can  buy  excellent  tea  here  for  twenty- 
five  cents  per  pound,  and  lower  grades  cheaper.  The  crop 
in  the  interior  is  transported  on  men's  backs  to  the  canals, 
rivers,  and  ports,  sometimes  hundreds  of  miles. 

Notwithstanding  England  is  her  best  customer,  she  gen- 
erally manages  to  have  a  balance  in  trade  on  opium  account 
against  China.  English  ships  go  twice  through  the  tropics, 
sometimes  four  months  on  a  voyage,  before  reaching  home. 
Her  goods  exported  in  return  reach  here  bound  in  iron 
hoops  and  baled  in  water-proof  wrappings.  I  see  it  stated 
the  Americans  have  suffered  in  careless  handling,  many  of 
her  cottons  being  found  mildewed  on  opening,  notwithstand- 


Learning  the  Language.  545 

ing  our  country  enjoys  the  advantage  of  a  shorter  transit. 
Mr.  Fred  Haskell,  of  the  Japan-China  Trading  Company, 
one  of  the  leading  houses  on  the  Bund,  informed  me  that 
Augusta,  Georgia,  light  cotton  sheetings  (from  Sibley  and 
other  mills)  were  preferred  to  all  others  by  the  Chinese.  Mr. 
Haskell  handles  large  quantities  of  these  goods.  We  cannot 
grow  opium  successfully,  nor  will  the  Chinese  buy  whisky 
from  us  (their  samshu  is  good  enough  for  them),  but  it  occurs 
to  me  here  is  one  of  our  greatest  markets  for  the  cotton- 
mills  of  the  South.  California  ships  her  flour  here,  and 
Oregon  her  redwood  and  other  kinds  of  lumber,  at  remuner- 
ative prices.  Ginseng,  kerosene  oil,  and  some  other  goods, 
are  largely  exported  from  San  Francisco.  The  trouble  is 
Chat  China  produces  nearly  all  she  wants  at  home,  and  can 
throw  all  nations,  except  England,  in  her  debt. 

Somebody  has  said  the  Chinese  language  was  the  inven- 
tion of  the  —  — .  I  have  been  in  Shanghai  a  week,  and 
have  not  been  able  as  yet  to  speak  one  word  of  this  out- 
landish tongue. 

Tom  Benton,  of  Texas,  once  remarked  that  the  Chinese 
had  a  very  expressive  language.  "  What  is  there  expressive 
about  it?"  asked  his  mother-in-law,  who  is  an  incessant 
talker.  "Take  the  word  'ken,'  for  instance."  "What 
does  '  ken '  mean  ?"  "  It  means  several  things.  In  the  first 
place,  it  means  a  female  mouth.  Another  meaning  of '  ken ' 
is  a  gate.  In  short,  any  thing  that  is  everlastingly  opening 
and  shutting  is  called  'ken.'" — Texas  Si/tings. 

I  wanted  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  Chinese  editor,  the 
ponderous  writer  of  the  Shanghai  press.  Brother  Loehr  had 
kindly  proffered  to  introduce  me,  and  when  we  entered  the 
sanctum  he  raised  his  immense  goggles  and  came  near  bow- 
ing me  out  the  door  before  I  could  say  a  word.  I  finally 
recovered  from  my  discomfiture,  and  bowed  him  back. 
Brother  Loehr  informed  him  I  was  a  member  of* the  Amer- 
35 


546  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

lean  press.  He  shook  my  hand  most  cordially,  extend- 
ing us  a  fraternal  greeting.  It  gave  him  much  gratifi- 
cation and  pleasure,  he  said,  to  meet  an  American  jour- 
nalist. Mr.  Earnest  Major,  the  English  manager,  then 
showed  me  through  the  press-rooms.  The  pig-tails  were 
running  up  and  down  ladders,  getting  a  character  here 
and  there  out  of  cases  to  set  some  copy.  These  were  metal 
types,  or  characters,  which  were  being  cut  or  made  by  hand  in 
the  office.  Mr.  Major  presented  me  specimens  of  the  differ- 
ent publications  and  a  copy  of  the  Pekin  Gazette.  The  car- 
toons in  the  illustrated  editions  represented  the  French  re- 
treating in  every  direction  before  the  victorious  armies  of 
the  Government.  Some  great  battles  and  fearful  slaughters 
of  the  enemy's  troops  in  Tonquin  were  represented.  But 
the  French  declared  the  Chinese  had  advanced  backward 
and  retreated  on  them.  Sometimes  a  fort  or  line  of  battle 
was  being  carried  by  the  Chinese  at  the  point  of  the  bay- 
onet, and  then  great  numbers  of  the  enemy  were  captured 
or  slain.  They  seemed  to  understand  the  art  usually  prac- 
ticed by  Western  nations  of  recording  nothing  but  victo- 
ries. 

The  Pekin  Gazette  (official  paper)  is  the  oldest  in  the 
world.  It  is  one  thousand  years  old.  I  had  presumed  it 
was  about  the  size  of  the  Savannah  Weekly  News  or  Ma- 
con  Weekly  Telegraph;  but  I  found  its  dimensions  to  rival  a 
napkin.  It  contains  only  the  official  proclamations  of  the 
Imperial  Government  at  Pekin.  Mr.  Major  informs  me 
about  one  in  every  fifteen  of  the  population  reads  a  news- 
paper. Every  town  and  city  publishes  its  cheap  books, 
from  one  to  five  cents  each,  which  furnish  the  masses  with 
various  styles  of  literature.  The  Chinese,  as  I  have  ob- 
served, are  a  reading  people.  But  they  are  fond  of  what  is 
old,  while  we  like  to  read  what  is  new. 

One  day  our  party,  consisting  of  Dr.  Allen,  Sir  John, 


Birds,  Animals,  Fruits,  Minerals, 


547 


ONE  OF  THE  ARISTOCRACY. 

Misses  Muse  and  Allen,  visited  a  large  reeling-factory  of 
silk  cocoons.  We  were  too  late  to  see  it  in  operation.  It 
is  French,  I  believe,  employing  a  large  force  of  Chinese 
girls.  The  machinery,  of  the  most  approved  model,  was  all 
imported  from  Europe. 

Returning,  I  bought  specimens  of  Ningpo  carving,  repre- 
senting a  sampan,  buffalo  cow,  palanquin,  etc.  The  people 
of  Ningpo  are  here  in  large  numbers  engaged  in  this 
branch  of  art,  for  which  their  town  is  so  celebrated.  At 
one  house  I  saw  camphor-wood  coffins  piled  high,  as  if  the 
undertaker  did  a  large  business. 

The  ornithology  and  zoology  of  China  present  many  in- 
teresting objects  for  study.  There  are  the  hawk,  owl — 
screech  and  large  OAV!S;  eagles,  falcons,  and  king-fish- 
ers; the  raven — that  ubiquitous  crow;  the  jackdaw  (no 
buzzards),  magpie,  jay,  turtle-dove,  pigeon — both  com- 
mon and  carrier.  The  natives  tie  a  whistle  on  the  car- 


548  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

rier-pigeon's  back  to  know  where  he  is.  As  the  pigeon  flies 
against  the  wind  the  whistle  may  be  heard  a  great  distance. 
Early  one  bright  morning  we  were  sitting  in  the  garden, 
near  a  pretty  lakelet,  where  a  number  of  beautiful  birds 
were  observed  flying  or  hopping  around  us  on  the  grass. 
Among  these  was  the  minor  I  had  seen  in  India.  But  the 
lark,  O  the  heavenly  lark !  which  Amelia  Welby,  of  Ken- 
tucky, has  sung  into  immortality,  is  here.  Watch  him  as 
he  nestles  in  the  grass ;  now  up  he  soars,  higher  and  higher, 
singing  as  he  goes,  into  the  blue  vaulted  dome  of  heaven. 
Poising  on  his  tiny  wings,  he  pours  forth  his  musical  notes 
in  ecstatic  joy ;  but  exhausted,  folds  his  wings  and  drops  to 
the  ground. 

The  minor,  like  the  cuckoo,  lays  its  eggs  in  other  birds' 
nests.  The  Chinese  call  the  cuckoo  tsna-kingdian,  because 
it  calls  out  to  the  husbandman  to  hurry  up  the  plowman. 
The  canary  is  bred  in  large  numbers,  and  sings  beautifully. 
Of  game  birds  we  find  the  bustard  (size  of  a  turkey),  golden 
and  silver  pheasants — perfect  beauties — and  common  pheas- 
ant, which  often  measures  three  feet  from  head  to  tail. 
These  birds  are  found  in  large  numbers ;  also  grouse  and 
quail.  This  quail  is  a  different  bird  from  the  Georgia 
partridge,  being  somewhat  smaller.  Then  there  are  the 
swan,  goose,  and  duck,  both  domesticated  and  wild.  Snipe 
and  woodcocks  are  migratory  birds,  as  with  us — appear 
here  spring  and  autumn.  Among  the  animals  there  are  the 
bactrian,  the  camel,  horses,  sheep,  goats,  hogs,  buffalo  cat- 
tle, Mongolian  ponies,  and  mules  larger  than  horses.  The 
dogs  in  China,  like  those  in  India  and  Egypt,  appear  to 
belong  to  the  wolf  species.  There  is  a  long-haired,  pug- 
nosed  dog  called  the  St.  Charles — a  lap-dog.  The  court 
ladies  of  Pekin  carry  in  their  sleeves  a  little  pet  dog  weigh- 
ing about  a  pound  when  grown.  This  species  is  a  royal 
monopoly. 


Birds,  Animals,  Fruits,  Minerals.  549 

Ur.  Allen  has  traveled  in  Mongolia  far  to  the  north  of 
Pekin  and  the  Great  Wall,  where  he  found  a  shepherd  dog 
of  immense  stature  guarding  the  flocks  of  those  wandering 
Abrahams  and  Sarahs  who  move  their  tents  from  place  to 
place  over  the  boundless  plains  of  Mongolia.  These  people 
are  the  Tartars,  who  never  live  in  houses.  China  has  fox- 
es, badgers,  weasels,  mongouse,  and  raccoons,  but  no  opos- 
sums. As  I  have  stated,  the  marsupials  belong  to  Austra- 
lia, North  and  South  America,  being  found  nowhere  else 
on  the  globe.  The  Chinese  hunt  foxes  for  their  fur — not 
for  fun;  no  fun  about  a  Chinaman — all  business;  also  the 
hare  and  white  rabbits.  Among  the  curious  game  animals 
is  the  hog-deer — he  has  a  tusk  in  the  upper  jaw  like  a  hog; 
and  there  is  a  wild  boar  that  grows  to  five  hundred  pounds. 
The  Englishman's  pig-sticking  propensities  would  admit  of 
large  indulgence  in  China.  Fish  are  in  endless  variety; 
all  kinds  are  sold  alive  in  China  markets.  The  carp  (a 
native  here),  bass,  perch,  sole,  cat,  and  trout,  fresh  mack- 
erel and  salmon,  are  cultivated  in  artificial  ponds,  which 
are  easily  constructed  by  turning  the  water  from  canals  and 
rivers  into  sinks  and  depressions.  Oysters  are  very  fine. 
The  Chinese  stick  bamboos  in  the  salt  water,  and  to  these 
the  oysters  tenaciously  adhere  in  large  numbers.  When 
full,  the  bamboo  is  pulled  up,  with  a  good  crop.  They 
have  crabs,  clams,  turtles,  etc. ;  also  snakes,  scorpions,  etc., 
like  we  have. 

There  are  four  different  kinds  of  oranges  most  common 
in  China,  four  to  six  cents  per  dozen.  The  mandarin  is 
so  called  because  it  requires  no  labor  to  get  at  it.  The 
Chinese  dwarf  their  fruits,  shrubs,  and  evergreens.  The 
mandarin  here  is  the  Tangerene  of  Malta  or  Africa.  The ' 
coolie  orange  is  so  named  because  it  requires  labor.  It  is. 
a  clear,  bright  oval,  found  in  the  south  about  Canton,  and 
in  Cochin  China.  The  persimmon  is  very  large  and  luscious 


550  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

when  ripe.  The  tree,  bark,  and  leaves  are  larger,  but  it  is 
evidently  the  same  genus  to  which  our  Georgia  persimmon 
belongs. 

China  -has  its  famines,  droughts,  and  floods  like  India; 
typhoons  instead  of  cyclones,  but  they  are  equally  as  de- 
structive of  life  and  property.  Northern  China  suffers 
from  famine.  In  1878,  in  the  province  of  which  Shamsee 
is  the  center,  no  less  than  ten  million  people  starved  to 
death  from  a  long  drought.  There  were  abundant  stores 
of  provisions  brought  to  the  sea-shore,  but  the  people  could 
not  reach  them.  The  canals  all  dried  up,  the  people  sold 
every  thing,  even  to  their  houses,  clothing,  wives  and  chil- 
dren. Finally  all  animal  food  was  exhausted,  .including 
cats  and  dogs.  Pack  mules  and  horses  were  eaten  up  in 
trying  to  reach  Tientsin,  where  millions  of  rice  and  food 
were  waiting.  Having  finally  nothing  else  to  eat,  they  began 
to  eat  themselves.  No  country  needs  railroads  worse  than 
China.  These  principal  causes  may  be  the  means  of  re- 
ducing the  overburdened  population,  as  war,  yellow  fever, 
cholera,  etc.,  depopulate  Europe.  But  railroads  would 
furnish  relief,  as  they  have  done  in  India.  The  more  en 
lightened  and  advanced  statesmen  of  China,  represented  by 
Le  Hung  Chang,  the  present  Prime-minister,  advocate  the 
construction  of  telegraph  lines,  railroads,  colleges,  etc.;  to 
meet  the  pressing  demands  of  the  outside  world.  In  the 
past  few  years  China  has  made  most  wonderful  progress 
in  this  direction.  I  learn  now  that  she  will  introduce  ma- 
chinery and  European  labor  to  work  her  coal-mines — may 
be  her  gold,  tin,  copper,  and  inexhaustible  resources  of  ir«i:i. 
China  is  comparatively  a  new  country,  with  untold  mineral 
wealth  undeveloped.  Her  people  have  learned  to  work 
gold  in  California  and  Australia,  coal,  iron,  etc.  These 
new  industries  once  opened  up  would  directly  command 
her  own  skilled  labor  in  these  countries.  The  Chinese  peo' 


China's  Future  Position.  551 

pie  are  the  most  intellectual  in  the  East,  but  they  have 
done  nothing  scarcely  of  themselves,  except  manufacture 
and  till  the  soil.  They  h-ave  made  many  very  wonderful 
discoveries,  but  hardly  perfected  any  thing.  They  discov- 
ered the  compass,  and  only  navigated  from  one  headland 
to  another ;  they  discovered  gunpowder,  and  never  until  a 
few  years  ago  made  any  thing  but  fire-crackers  to  pop; 
they  discovered  stone  and  block  printing,  and  still  stick  to 
their  slow  and  crude  methods. 

England  ?is  already  inside  of  her  doors,  and  Russia  is 
knocking  at  her  northern  gates.  This  outside  pressure  is 
forcing  China  to  adopt  new  methods  and  ignore  her  anti- 
quated customs,  as  they  now  fail  to  meet  the  demands  upon 
her.  Railroads  soon  built  .will  solve  the  question.  She 
has  several  telegraph  lines  in  operation.  But  China  is  the 
only  country  around  the  world,  except  Palestine  and  a  few 
islands  in  the  Pacific,  which  has  not  already  built  railroads. 
Even  Java  and  Japan  have  splendid  lines;  Australia,  and 
I  believe  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Mexico,  Central  and  South 
America — the  whole  world  except  China — have  railroads. 
In  many  respects  China  resembles  America — her  coast-line, 
physical  characteristics,  climate,  soil,  and  productions  be- 
ing very  nearly  similar.  Geographically,  we  ought  to  com- 
mand a  large  trade  from  her  fertile  shores,  and  be  her  good 
neighbor.  In  event  of  war  with  Russia,  China  will  find 
England  her  strongest  ally.  These  moral  forces  and  outside 
pressure,  we  maintain,  must  solve  for  China  her  future  po- 
sition among  nations. 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


CHAPTER  LIII. 

PIGEON  ENGLISH  POETRY  —  THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING. 

WE  have  stated  that  our  Bible  has  recently  been  pub- 
lished in  pigeon  English.  It  forms  the  colloquial  lan- 
guage of  the  Chinese  in  the  sea-port  cities  and  towns  along  the 
coast.  Even  the  Europeans  have  been  compelled  to  learn 
it;  and  a  late  arrival  at  Shanghai  of  the  American  war- 
ship "Ossipee"  has  developed  a  pigeon  English  poet.  The 
following  amusing  couplets,  never  before  published,  were 
contributed  to  this  book  by  Dr.  Russell,  surgeon  of  the 
"Ossipee,"  through  a  friend.  Dr.  Russell  is  a  Georgian, 
and  a  son  of  Professor  T.  B.  Russell,  of  Fort  Valley.  The 
arrival  of  the  man-of-war,  its  booming  guns  ;  the  Chinaman 
going  out  in  his  sampan  to  meet  it;  his  joy  over  "plentee 
pidgin,"  plenty  business;  meeting  the  sailor,  doing  his  tai- 
loring for  him  ;  the  sailor  getting  drunk  on  shore  and  look- 
ing for  the  Chinaman,  are  all  well  described  by  the  Chinese 
poet: 

HI-YAH,   CUMSHA   (BACKSHISH). 

Tune:  "  O  Susanna,  do  n't  you  cry  for  me." 

One  fine  day,  as  my  sittee  inee  shop, 

Hi-yah,  cumsha. 

Hear  big  ship  guns  makee  noise,  pop,  pop, 
Likee  nmchee  cumsha  me; 
Pickee  upee  sam-poo,  makee  likee  see, 

Hi-yah,  cumsha. 
Mellican  war-junk,  "  Ossipee," 
Likee  muchee  cumsha  me. 

Chorus.  Hi-yah  for  da  Mellican  ship, 
Catchee  plentee  dollar  for  me; 
Catchee  plentee  pidgin  allee  day  long, 
War-junk  "  Ossipee." 


Things  Worth  Knowing  About  China.  553 

Big  sailor  man  makee  muchee  chin-chin, 

Hi-yah,  cumsha. 

Makee  sailor  clothes,  butee  no  fitee  him, 
Likee  muchee  cumsha  me; 
Clothes  no  fitee,  my  no  care, 

Hi-yah,  cumsha. 

Makee  for  to  sellee,  no  makee  for  to  wear, 
Likee  muchee  cumsha  me. 

Big  sailor  man  come  ashore  for  a  spree, 

Hi-yah,  cumsha. 

Dlinkee  plentee  liquor,  den  he  lookee  for  me, 
Likee  muchee  cumsha  me. 
Lun  vellee  hard,  but  he  catchee  bime-by, 

Hi-yah,  cumsha. 

Makee  muchee  barbar  punchee  inee  eye, 
Likee  muchee  cumsha  me. 


As  I  find  it  impossible  to  describe  but  a  few  things,  I 
have  prepared  the  remainder  of  this  chapter,  from  careful 
study,  about  facts  worth  knowing.  For  it  is  not  generally 
known : 

That  the  Chinese  civilization  is  the  oldest  in  the  world. 

That  China  is  the  most  densely  populated  country. 

That  it  is  the  oldest  empire  on  earth. 

That  its  history  is  unbroken  for  three  thousand  years. 

That  one  dynasty  ruled  eight  hundred  years. 

That  China  is  mentioned  in  the  book  of  Isaiah. 

That  a  colony  of  Jews  settled  on  Yellow  Kiver  before 
Christ  was  born. 

That  Confucius  hinted  at  a  "  holy  one  who  was  to  come 
in  the  West." 

That  a  commission  was  sent  by  the  Chinese  Government 
to  ascertain  who  this  holy  man  was. 

That  this  commission  was  met  by  the  Buddhist  priest  in 
India  and  turned  back.  Buddha  was  the  holy  man,  they 


554  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

said,  they  were  looking  for.    In  this  way  the  religion  of 
Buddha,  instead  of  Christ,  wras  introduced  into  China. 

That  silk  was  first  woven  in  China. 

That  the  Empress  spun  and  wove  silk  before  Christ  was 
born. 

That  all  the  people  once  dressed  in  silk. 

That  the  Chinese  discovered  paper. 

That  China,  India,  Persia,  and  Arabia  traded  with  each 
other  before  the  Romans  invaded  Britain. 

That  Solomon  knew  of  China. 

That  they  first  wrote  books  on  bamboo. 

That  in  the  year  95  they  discovered  the  art  of  making 
paper  from  bamboo. 

That  they  wrote  with  camel-hair  pens  from  blocks  of  ink. 

That  China  comes  from  Tsin — a  silk-worm. 

That  the  mulberry  and  silk-worm  were  cultivated  during 
the  reign  of  Great  Yu-yu,  B.C.  2205. 

That  two  Nestorian  monks,  in  the  sixth  century,  stole  the 
eggs  of  the  silk-worm,  concealed  them  in  a  bamboo,  and 
brought  them  to  Constantinople — from  which  silk  culture 
first  originated  in  Greece  and  Europe,  during  Justinian's 
reign. 

That  porcelain  was  first  made  in  China  in  1000  A.D. 

That  the  Chinese  first  invented  the  art  of  printing  on 
stone,  five  hundred  years  before  it  was  known  in  Europe. 

That  the  Chinese  first  made  fans  and  umbrellas. 

That  a  Chinese  boy,  in  the  Anglo-Chinese   University, 
remarked   that  "  that  word  did  not  make  the  same  noise , 
(sound)  as  the  other." 

That  they  first  established  the  feudal  system. 

That  Genghis  and  Kublai  Khan  nearly  conquered  Europe 
in  the  thirteenth  century. 

That  the  Chinese  invented  the  mariner's  compass  before 
our  Saviour  was  born. 


Things  Worth  Knowing  About  China.  555 

That  they  discovered  the  magnetic  needle. 

That  they  first  made  gunpowder. 

That  Confucius  was  born  550  B.C.,  and  was  one  of  the 
wisest  of  men. 

That  Kublai  Khan  built  Pekin,  and  the  Great  Canal  one 
thousand  miles  long.  It  required  one  hundred  and  seventy 
thousand  men  many  years  to  construct  it. 

That  the  Chinese  Wall  is  one  thousand  five  hundred 
miles  long,  built  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  before  Christ 
was  born,  to  keep  the  Tartars  out. 

That  the  Tartars  conquered  China  by  military  power. 

That  the  Chinese  conquered  the  Tartars  by  their  superior 
civilization. 

That  passports  existed  in  China  before  they  were  known 
in  Europe. 

That  the  Chinese  practiced  medicine  like  the  English,  at 
the  same  time,  eight  hundred  years  ago. 

That  the  Chinese  can  calculate  without  figures  better  than 
we  can  with  them. 

That  they  first  cultivated  tea. 

That  cotton,  called  nankeen,  was  first  grown  in  China. 

That  cultivating  fish  and  hatching  eggs  by  artificial  meth- 
ods was  first  practiced  by  the  Chinese  and  Egyptians. 

That  the  Chinese  write  from  top  to  bottom. 

That  they  hang  their  sign-boards  up  and  down. 

That  they  make  all  the  gongs  and  fire-crackers. 

That  they  make  rice-paper  from  bamboo. 

That  they  spell  a  whole  letter  of  our  language  with  a 
character  of  their  own. 

That  they  discovered  the  principles  of  the  telephone 
nearly  two  hundred  years  ago,  and  called  it  a  thousand- 
mile  speaker. 

That  the  boys  play  shuttle-cock  and  fly  kites  in  China. 

That  they  have  seventeen-year  locusts  in  China. 


556  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


That  a  Chinaman  can  marry  a  dozen  wives. 

That  they  all  crave  the  birth  of  boys. 

That  the  Chinese  put  their  tombs  or  monuments  in  houses. 

That  they  sell  their  daughters  for  presents. 

That  one  Chinaman  kills  another  by  committing  suicide 
on  his  neighbor's  door-steps. 

That  they  fish  with  cormorants,  nets,  and  bamboo-pens. 

That  a  policeman  catches  a  rogue  by  beating  a  gong  to 
scare  him. 

That  the  thief  generally  gets  away. 

Chinaman  says:  "You  Mellican  man  very  dirty  folks; 
you  always  having  your  clothes  washed." 

The  Chinese  dress  in  white  for  mourning,  instead  of  black. 

The  foreigners  have  go-downs  in  Shanghai  to  store  goods 
in,  and  the  Chinese  have  pawn-brokers'  shops  to  keep  their 
valuables  in. 

A  Chinaman  hardly  ever  laughs. 

The  old  folks  make  the  matches  for  their  children  when 
they  are  quite  young. 

The  Chinese  celebrate  many  pretty  festivals,  like  those  of 
the  lanterns,  boats,  etc. 

They  have  no  coined  money,  except  copper  mills,  with 
holes  through  them — eleven  to  one  cent. 

Every  thing  in  China  is  bought  by  taels — a  tael  is  one  dol- 
lar and  thirty-three  cents  of  our  money,  equal  to  an  ounce 
of  pure  silver.  One  sycee  equals  three  pounds  of  fine  sil- 
ver. Gold  ingots  are  valued  at  seventeen  times  as  much 
more.  Every  dollar  sent  to  China  from  America  gains 
eleven  cents  in  value. 

That  the  English  have  banks  in  all  Chinese  sea-ports. 

That  the  Chinese  put  their  stamps  on  Mexican  silver  dol- 
lars, to  show  they  are  genuine — called  chop  dollars. 

That  they  make  their  long  cues  with  black  silk  braid. 

That  they  have  eighty  different  kinds  of  vegetables. 


Last  Days  in  Shanghai.  557 

That  they  have  just  translated  our  Bible  into  pigeon 
English. 

That  China  never  borrowed  a  dollar  until  this  year  (for 
the  Franco-Chinese  war). 

That  the  Mandarin  is  the  court  dialect. 

That  different  provinces  speak  different  dialects. 

That  the  Chinese  are  a  most  wonderful  people. 


CHAPTER  LIV. 

LAST  DAYS  IN  SHANGHAI — DEPARTURE  FOR  JAPAN. 

OUR  last  days  in  Shanghai  were  the  pleasantest  of  them 
all.  Sir  John  had  been  with  us  in  several  of  our  ram- 
bles. He  too  had  become  endeared  to  Dr.  Allen  by  fre- 
quent manifestations  of  kindness  at  his  hospitable  home. 
AVe  had  passed  many  delightful  hours  in  the  exquisite  gar- 
dens of  the  European  Park,  amidst  its  parterres  of  rare 
flowers  and  charming  music.  Whom  should  we  remember 
very  kindly  for  the  many  pleasant  days  and  good  friends 
we  had  made  in  Shanghai? 

The  evening  before  our  departure  a  most  brilliant  recep- 
tion was  tendered  a  small  party  by  Mr.  Fred.  Haskell  and 
lady  at  their  palatial  home  on  the  Bund.  It  was  just  charm- 
ing !  The  beauty  of  the  ladies  was  queenly,  and  the  munifi- 
cent hospitality  of  our  host  would  have  excited  the  envy  of 
an  European  prince.  In  the  drawing-rooms  were  many 
specimens  of  antique  art,  and  upon  the  walls  hung  a  fine 
collection  of  paintings.  Among  the  honored  guests  were 
Mandarin  Allen,  Sir  John  R.  G.  Sinclair,  Lieut.  Gilmer 
of  the  United  States  flag-ship  "Trenton,"  and  the  ladies. 
The  music  was  delicious — and  such  singing!  One  of  our 
ladies  had  played  before  Albert  Victor,  the  eldest  son  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales.  She  also  played  before  us.  This  was 


558 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


CHINESE  SERVANT. 

a  little  remarkable.  But  the  menu  was  more  noticeable 
still.  Here  were  rare  dishes  and  choice  viands  worthy  of 
Delmonico's  ambition.  There  was  nothing  wanting  to  make 
that  evening  memorable.  Mr.  Haskell  is  one  of  the  mer- 
chant princes  of  Shanghai,  who  captured  one  of  Georgia's 
queenly  women  when  he  won  the  heart  of  Miss  Margaret 
Houston.  She  is  the  sister  of  Mrs.  Dr.  Young  J.  Allen, 
who  will  be  well  remembered  about  Newnan,  Ga. 

Early  on  the  fourth  morning  of  June  we  were  accom- 
panied on  board  the  Japanese  steamer  "  Mitshu  Bishi "  by 
number  of  our  friends.  We  had  received  cordial  tidings 
from  the  Chinese  director,  one  or  two  native  preachers, 
Prof  Royall,  dear  Dr.  Lambuth  and  his  estimable  wife, 
Bro  Anderson  at  Suchow,  and  the  venerable  Dr.  Matthew 


Arrival  in  Japan. 


559 


Yates  of  the  Baptist  Mission,  from  North  Carolina,  whom  I 
had  met  at  Dr.  Allen's  home.  Mr.  Haskell  had  kindly  pre- 
sented us  letters  to  his  houses  in  Nagasaki  and  Yokohama, 
where  we  should  receive  courtesies  that  had  distinguished  our 
stay  in  Shanghai.  As  we  floated  down  the  Wusung,  among 
thousands  of  junks  and  sampans,  our  friends  stood  waving 
us  final  adieus.  At  last  one  handkerchief  only  was  visible, 
signaling  us  its  love  and  prayers.  It  was  Dr.  Allen's.  In 
a  few  hours  we  turned  across  the  mouth  of  the  Yang-tse 
River  into  the  Yellow  Sea,  with  the  coast  range  of  mountains 
visible  all  day  on  our  left.  Ninety  miles  from  Shanghai 
we  passed  the  famous  Saddle  Rocks,  or  islands,  one  of 
which  is  shaped  much  like  a  saddle. 


I  AM  TH*E  CAPTAIN  OF  THIS  BOAT.      THEREBY  HANGS  A  TAIL. 

Early  next  morning  we  approached,  through  a  narrow 
inlet,  the  city  of  Nagasaki,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and 
interesting  cities  in  Japan.  A  fort,  en  barbette,  commands  the 
magnificent  approaches  to  the  land-locked  harbor.  Before 
us  rises  the  Island  of  Pappenberg,  a  memorable  spot  in  the 
history  of  Christian  persecution  several  hundred  years  ago 


560  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

in  Japan.  Twenty  thousand  men,  women,  and  children 
were  hurled  from  the  lofty  cliffs  above  us  upon  the  rocks 
below,  which  is  hardly  a  cable's  length  from  us.  There  is 
no  monument  to  mark  the  spot,  but  these  gray  cliffs  will 
stand  as  an  everlasting  memorial  to  the  martyred  dead. 
On  our  right  we  pass  the  foreign  residences,  extending  up 
the  mountain-slopes  by  terraced  walks.  Before  us  lies 
Nagasaki,  with  its  streets  of  shops  and  wooden  houses  ex- 
tending up  its  matchless  harbor.  It  is  but  a  mile  across, 
with  lofty  mountains  rising  all  around  it,  four  miles  from 
the  sea.  The  mountains  are  terraced  from  the  water's  edge 
to  their  lofty  summits — strips  of  golden  grain  variegated 
with  other  crops  of  green.  Around  us  swarm  the  sampans, 
with  another  nation  sculling  instead  of  rowing.  But  they 
are  different  people  from  the  Chinese. 

Japan  is  a  small  country,  but  it  is  the  gem  of  the  Orient. 
It  consists  of  a  group  of  islands — Yesso,  Niphon,  Kiusiu, 
and  Sikok  being  the  four  largest.  There  are  hundreds  of 
smaller  ones — yes,  thousands,  probably — some  inhabited 
and  others  the  habitations  of  numberless  aquatic  fowls.  The 
most  fertile  are  the  last  named,  with  a  dense  population. 
In  its  physical  aspects  Japan  resembles  Italy  or  Great  Brit- 
ain, with  its  beautiful  mountains  and  fertile  vales.  It  lies 
between  the  thirtieth  and  fortieth  parallels,  cooler  in  the 
summer  than  the  United  States,  and  warmer  in  winter. 
Tokio,  or  Yedo,  is  its  present  capital — the  whole  country 
boasting  of  thirty-five  million  inhabitants.  All  these  isl- 
ands are  of  volcanic  origin.  The  disintegrated  lava,  flow- 
ing down  their  mountain-sides  for  ages  past,  has  made  them 
very  rich. 

Marco  Polo  speaks  of  Japan  in  his  travels  in  Cathay. 

Genghis  Khan,  of  Tartary,  fitted  out  a  naval  expedition 
against  Zipanza  in  1260  and  was  wrecked  off  its  coast;  but 
in  1542  the  Portuguese  discovered  the  country.  Francis 


Arrival  in  Japan.  561 


Xavier,  a  Portuguese  priest,  reached  Goa  in  India  and 
pushed  on  to  Malacca,  where  he  met  a  Japanese  named 
Angrio,  a  Christian  convert,  who  with  Xavier  arrived  in 
this  city  in  1549.  This  missionary  Jesuit,  having  adopted 
plans,  died  on  his  return  voyage  to  China.  Nagasaki  was 
the  first  trading  port  opened  in  the  country  in  1558.  Chris- 
tianity under  the  Catholics  spread  rapidly;  but  in  1587  a 
new  Tycoon  came  into  power,  and  declared  Japanese  should 
rule  Japan.  Then  they  began  to  put  the  Christians  to  the 
stake,  hang  them  on  trees,  and  throw  them  down  precipices 
by  the  thousands.  In  1618  the  last  Jesuit  was  expelled 
from  the  country.  The  Portuguese  driven  out,  the  Dutch 
came  in,  and  their  trade  and  people  were  confined  to  a  small 
island  called  Djesima,  in  front  of  Nagasaki.  They  made  no 
effort  to  introduce  religion.  All  this  occurred  during  a 
period  of  religious  zeal  that  inspired  all  of  Europe  toward 
the  discovery  of  new  countries  and  the  propagation  of  the 
gospel. 

To  its  political  history,  mythological  and  otherwise,  we 
can  barely  allude — only  to  its  prominent  phases.  The  Mi- 
kado, like  the  Emperor  of  China,  claimed  divine  origin — 
descended  from  the  gods.  Then  came  the  Shogun  (Shong- 
un),  who  ruled  in  the  name  of  the  divine  man.  But  the 
Shogun 's  power  became  hereditary  about  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  years  ago,  and  has  continued,  with  short  intervals  of 
war,  revolution,  etc.,  down  to  1868.  This  Shogunate  was 
represented  during  this  long  period  by  three  powerful  fam- 
ilies— the  Hojo,  Taira,  and  Tokugawa.  lyeyasu,  the  wisest 
prince  of  his  times,  headed  the  line.  From  1598  to  1868, 
the  Government  once  organized  with  wisdom  and  sagacity, 
the  country  enjoyed  a  period  of  tranquillity  and  prosperity 
nearly  three  hundred  years,  down  to  1868,  or  the  Revolu- 
tion. During  the  Shogunate's  rule  the  people  divided  up 
into  classes  that  brought  on  wars,  which  produced  the 


562  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

samuri,  or  soldier  class,  who  were  supported  at  public  cost, 
under  daimios,  or  districts.     The  samuri  became  the  daimois 
(or  lords  of  the  land)  retainers,  out  of  which  grew  a  feudal 
system  similar  to  that  practiced  during  the  Middle  Ages  of  | 
Europe.     Then  there  were  the  common  people  at  the  mercy' 
of  both.     The  Shoguns  kept  the  Mikado  out  of  reach  of  the  • 
people.     He  was  too  sacred  to  be  approached;  but  in  his 
name  and  fear  they  could  govern  the  people.     But  now  the 
Mikado,  having  always  been  nominal,  wanted  to  be  the 
actual  ruler. 

The  United  States  Government,  it  seems,  furnished  the 
•provocation  that  developed  into  a  crisis.  The  Japanese  had 
been  a  seclusive  people  for  two  hundred  years — prejudiced 
against  all  foreigners.  But  this  jealousy  was  brought  about 
by  political  intrigue  against  the  Government  by  the  Jesuits 
(Catholics)  here,  just  as  it  was  done  in  China.  That  brought 
on  the  bloody  persecution  of  Christians  to  which  I  have  al- 
luded. "Down  with  such  people!  We  don't  want  your 
Christianity,"  said  the  Government;  and  Christianity  was 
kept  out  for  two  hundred  years. 

In  1849  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California  brought 
America  face  to  face  with  Japan.  Accordingly  in  1853 
Commodore  Oliver  Hazard  Perry,  with  the  United  States 
Navy,  steamed  into  the  harbor  of  Yedo,  opened  negotia- 
tions with  the  Shogun,  whose  capital  was  here,  while  the 
Mikado's  was  at  Kioto,  some  two  hundred  miles  distant. 
The  Shogun  called  himself  the  Ti-kun — we  called  him  Ty- 
coon. This  assumed  titled  monarch  usurped  imperial  pow- 
ers, proposing  to  treat  with  Commodore  Perry.  This  brought 
the  Tycoon,  or  Shogunate,  into  a  conflict  with  the  Mikado, 
who  was  only  a  boy.  But  the  men  who  had  created  the 
Revolution  took  possession  of  the  young  Mikado,  removed 
him  from  Kioto  to  Yedo,  changed  the  name  to  Tokio,  or 
Eastern  Capital.  Then  the  revolution  of  1868  began  in 


Arrival  in  Japan.  563 


earnest.  A  new  government  must  be  organized  on  a  basis 
to  treat  with  foreign  powers.  Embassadors  were  to  be  ap- 
pointed and  received,  treaties  to  be  made,  and  an  army 
created  (the  French  model  was  adopted) ;  a  navy  was  to  be 
built — Englishmen  were  selected  to  do  it ;  railroads  were  to  be 
constructed — Englishmen  were  imported  to  do  this;  an  edu- 
'  cational  system  was  to  be  adopted — Americans  must  do  that. 
In  short,  the  feudal  system  having  been  abolished,  the 
daimios,  or  lords,  were  compelled  to  surrender  their  territo- 
ries and  revenues  to  the  Government,  which  retired  them 
on  a  pension.  Every  daimio  then,  with  his  family,  moved 
to  the  capital. 

The  young  Mikado  changed  all.  He  made  the  dependent 
the  freemen,  and  the  feudal  rulers  the  subordinates.  He 
made  men  freeholders  in  perpetual  tenure  of  their  lands. 
He  insured  as  great  protection  to  life  and  property  as  may 
be  enjoyed.  His  code  of  laws  he  modeled  after  those  of 
England  and  the  United  States,  establishing  a  sufficient 
judiciary.  He  gathered  about  him  broad,  sound,  and  pro- 
gressive counselors.  He  rules  an  empire  already  having 
five  hundred  miles  of  railroad,  five  thousand  miles  of  tele- 
graph wire,  unsurpassed  postal  facilities,  with  a  postal  sav- 
ings-bank system  worthy  of  imitation  in  this  country.  He 
has  built  a  navy,  and  can  repair  ships  v/ith  the  best.  As 
great  as  what  he  has  accomplished,  if  not  greater,  is  what 
he  has  proclaimed  he  proposes  to  do ;  and  that  is,  in  1890 
to  convert  his  empire  into  a  constitutional  empire,  with 
a  parliament  exercising  the  delegated  authority  of  the  peo- 
ple. What  a  wonderful  change  is  this  to  have  been  effected 
in  seventeen  years ! — the  consolidation  of  the  Government, 
the  appointment  of  governors  over  the  provinces,  collection 
of  revenues,  etc.  The  immense  expense  incurred  in  build- 
ing railroads,  telegraph  lines,  organizing  armies,  navy,  ar- 
senals, navy-yards,  supporting  foreigners  as  instructors  and 


564  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  daimios  on  pensions,  has  necessarily  involved  the  Gov- 
ernment in  a  national  debt.  But  her  railroads  are  profita- 
ble; even  the  line  of  ships  we  travel  on  from  Shanghai 
must  be  a  source  of  great  revenue.  Then  the  tax  on  rice- 
lands — five  or  six  dollars  per  acre — with  other  revenues, 
will  eventually,  it  is  supposed,  enable  the  Government  to 
pay  off  the  retired  nobility  at  once. 

Such  is  a  brief  historical  sketch  of  this  wonderful  people 
and  land. 

Among  the  practical  results  already  attained  may  be 
mentioned  the  establishment  of  English  schools  and  col- 
leges; the  translation  of  our  text-books  into  the  Japanese 
language,  and  their  adoption  in  hundreds  of  schools  and 
abandoned  Buddhist  temples;  the  education  abroad  in 
America  and  Europe  of  thousands  of  Japanese  boys  and 
girls;  the  observance  of  our  Sabbath  by  Government  offi- 
cials ;  the  encouragement  given  to  missionaries ;  the  rapid 
conversion  of  her  people — several  thousand  Protestants  and 
eighty  thousand  Catholic  adherents;  the  appearance  of  the 
Mikado  on  the  streets  of  Tokio ;  and  the  hospitable  welcome 
of  European  people. 

At  the  sea-ports  you  see  many  Japanese  wearing  straw 
hats  and  our  shoes  (the  custom  of  shaving  their  heads  is 
fast  disappearing  in  the  sea-port  towns) ;  but  our  clothing  is 
too  expensive  in  comparison  to  their  costumes,  which  cost 
from  fifty  cents  to  six  dollars  each.  The  first  is  cotton,  and 
the  last  is  the  price  for  silk  goods.  While  not  so  convenient, 
I  think  their  costume  is  a  handsomer  one  than  ours.  They 
use  ice,  and  buy  many  American  and  European  goods. 
Their  exports  go  into  the  millions — principally  lacquer,  silk, 
and  tea. 


Japanese  People,  Houses,  and  Customs. 


565 


CHAPTER  LV. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  PEOPLE,  HOUSES,  ETC. 

TN  the  harbor  \ve  see  three  Russian  men-of-war,  three  Ger- 
JL  man,  English,  and  American  frigates.  Here  is  an  osten- 
tatious display  of  yards,  sails,  frowning  batteries,  and  men 
on  board,  as  if  they  were  on  dress-parade.  We  miss  the 
eyes  in  our  sampan,  which  wears  an  air  of  cleanly  comfort 
without  the  usual  paint  of  the  Chinese  boat.  On  shore  a 


JINRIKISHA — THE  WA\    WE  TRAVEL  IN  JAPAN. 

dozen  jinrikishas  are  awaiting  our  arrival.  The  men  are  a 
trifle  shorter,  but  stouter,  than  the  Chinese — all  bottom  and 
muscle.  They  are  more  neatly  dressed,  wearing  a  broad- 
brim hat,  straw  shoes,  and  tights,  with  a  loose  blouse  falling 
below  their  hips.  Somebody  has  said  it  looks  like  the 


566 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


Japanese  coolie  has  been  "  melted  and  poured  into  his  trou- 
sers." They  open  at  the  bottom.  We  select  two  of  the  best 
trotters  for  a  dash  up  the  Bund.  In  a  few  minutes  we 
reach  the  fish-market,  where  we  see  the  people,  early  in  the 
morning,  going  and  returning  with  their  purchases.  The 
fish  are  all  sold  at  auction.  Every  variety,  in  baskets  or 
spread  on  the  paved  court,  may  be  seen  in  Nagasaki.  Great 


TEMPLE  TO  THE  GODDESS  OF  THE   SUN. 

sharks,  dolphin,  mackerel,  skate-fish,  (seen  in  Naples),  gold- 
en bream,  devil-fish,  crabs  with  distended  arms  several  feet 
long,  sprawn,  octopus,  eels  alive,  dog-fish,  etc. 

We  saw  black,  sleek  bullocks  bearing  their  burdens,  wear- 
ing straw  shoes.  We  visited  a  Sintoo  temple,  up  terraced 
steps  of  stone,  one  hundred  feet  high  on  a  mountain-slope. 
In  the  court  below  was  a  torii,  or  gate-way,  made  of  stone. 
Pilgrims  for  a  hundred  miles  visit  these  shrines  to  cast  in  a 
few  coppers  as  an  offering  to  some  god,  which  seems  to  con- 
stitute their  only  act  of  worship. 

Here  Buddha  is  worshiped,  as  in  China,  the  religion  hav- 


Japanese  People,  Houses,  and  Customs.  567 

ing  been  introduced  here  in  the  sixth  century  from  China 
and  Corea.  But  in  its  new  home  it  appears  to  have  been 
modified,  forming  into  several  sects. 

The  tea-garden  is  an  invariable  adjunct  to  the  shrine  or 
temple.  Tea  without  milk  or  sugar,  with  cakes  and  candy 
— pretty  girls,  with  pearly  teeth  and  olive  complexions,  to 
wait  on  us — their  plump  figures  and  raven  tresses  equally 
as  charming  as  their  silk  dresses.  Approaching  us,  these 
girls  set  their  waiters  upon  the  floor,  bowing  three  times, 
saying  with  a  winsome  smile,  "Ohayo  gozarimas" — You 
have  come  quickly,  sirs.  We  said  nothing.  Their  jet-black 
hair  was  combed  back  in  waves,  with  pretty  ornaments  for 
decoration.  They  wore  their  panniers  or  bustles  behind, 
with  their  dresses  crossed  in  front,  rather  low.  Their  skirts 
fell  in  graceful  profusion  above  sandaled  feet.  They  were 
anxious  to  talk  with  us,  and  seemed  rather  coquettishly  in- 
clined. We  bowed,  laughed,  and  drank  tea — Sir  John  re- 
ceiving more  bows  than  I;  and  when  we  parted  with  each 
pretty  maiden,  our  hearts  all  felt  so  heavy-laden! 

I  have  seen  a  number  of  women  with  blackened  teeth 
and  plucked  eyebrows — hideous  monsters!  I  wondered 
what  they  do  that  for.  "Married  women,"  the  guide  said. 
Afraid  somebody  would  fall  in  love  with  them !  My  sainted 
grandfather!  give  me  the  nightmare,  or  banish  me  into 
exile  forever!  Some  other  man  except  her  husband,  eh! 
The  ladies  do  n't  do  that  way  in  Christian  countries.  Some 
of  them  will  spend  hours  before  a  looking-glass  to  catch  some 
other  fellow.  These  customs  are  perpetuated  in  honor  of  a 
princess  who  was  very  beautiful,  but  devoted  to  her  hus- 
band ;  she  did  not  desire  to  be  more  attractive  to  other  men's 
eyes  than  his  own.  Now  all  wives  follow  her  example.  We 
see  people  bathing  together*  as  we  walk  along  the  streets. 
We  visited  curio-shops — a  beautiful  crockery-house  near 
the  Island  of  Desima,  where  egg-shell  china,  crackel-ware, 

*The  people  of  the  middle  classes  do  not  consider  it  immodest  to  expose 
their  persons  or  even  bathe  together.  The  sexes  have  not  been  educated  that 
way. 


568 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


ONLY  MY    HUSBAND. 

and  painted  porcelain,  glittered  and  vied  in  every  style  and 
color.  Here  were  vases  worth  a  thousand  dollars,  tea-sets 
hundreds  more,  and  full  service  at  fabulous  prices. 

The  tortoise-shell  house  and  manufacture  interested  us 
very  much.  Here  we  saw  the  artisans  deftly  working  into 
beautiful  creations  of  art  the  crude  material  of  the  shell. 
They  use  hot  water  for  bending,  and  little  tools  for  polish- 
ing, shaping,  etc.  I  saw  jinrikishas,  paper-cutters,  specta- 
cle-cases, sampans,  and  even  minature  ships,  made  out  of 
tortoise  shell.  The  young  man  brought  us  sandals  in  ex- 
change for  our  shoes,  left  at  the  door — his  floors  were  beau- 
tifully matted.  The  shops  are  all  open  in  front,  but  closed 
at  night  by  movable  sliding-doors.  Another  screen  divides 
the  shop  from  the  pallor.  On  the  shelves  we  saw  lacquered 
ware,  tea-trays,  fans,  and  carved  ivory,  etc. ;  sometimeb  dry 
goods,  then  groceries,  tin,  copper,  willow-ware,  charming 
Arima  baskets,  exquisite  art.  An  interesting  sight  was  the 


People,  ITuuxe*,  <n\<\  Citxtvin*.  569 


family  dining.  Here  were  pots,  pans,  saucers,  and  tea-cups, 
sitting  about.  The  houses  in  Japan  have  no  chimneys  as  in 
China.  The  cooking  is  done  on  a  brazier,  sometimes  in 
front  and  then  in  the  rear  of  the  house.  Places  are  made 
for  the  utensils  to  set  in  (clay  furnaces),  with  a  place  for 
coal  fires  underneath.  An  open  space,  dirt  floor,  is  observ- 
able in  every  house,  which  serves  as  a  passage.  Platform 
floors,  raised  two  or  three  feet  higher,  are  generally  covered 
with  matting.  Shoes  are  left,  as  described,  at  the  door, 
in  entering  a  Japanese  house.  The  family,  bare-headed  and 
often  without  shoes,  sit  cross-legged  around  little  trays,  us- 
ing chop-sticks,  picking  up  a  bit  of  fish,  rice,  etc.  The  men 
shave  the  crown  of  their  heads  backward,  and  tie  the  hair 
from  either  side  on  top  in  a  knot,  bringing  it  forward  and 
dropping  the  end  over.  Even  little  boys  five  years  old, 
with  their  heads  dressed  like  their  fathers,  are  observed 
adopting  the  style  and  manners  of  their  parents.  All  the 
family  eat  together. 

The  houses  are  of  wood  (not  painted),  one  to  one  and  a 
half  story  high  in  Nagasaki.  They  make  their  windows 
out  of  transparent  rice-paper.  A  door  is  divided  off  into 
little  squares  and  covered  with  this  thin  rice-paper.  There 
is  no  furniture  of  any  kind — only  matted  floors  and  cush- 
ions to  sit  on.  The  bed-clothes,  matting,  and  wooden  pillows 
used  in  sleeping  are  folded  up  and  kept  in  closets  during 
the  day.  So  a  Japanese  house  is  open  in  front,  with  no 
rooms  at  all.  But  when  night  comes  on,  these,  houses  are 
converted  into  passages  and  bed-rooms  in  a  few  minutes  by 
running  out  from  their  hiding-places  these  movable  screens  or 
doors.  When  we  want  a  servant,  we  clap  our  hands  for  him. 

The  Japanese  are  extremely  polite  at  their  houses,  and 
invariably  serve  you  with  a  cup  of  tea,  as  a  mark  of  hospi- 
tality. It  is  always  polite  to  sip  it,  whether  you  want  it 
or  not. 


570  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

Our  letter  introducing  us  to  Mr.  Rogers,  of  the  China- 
Japan  Trading  Company,  was  doubly  appreciated  when  we 
became  acquainted  with-  the  head  of  the  Nagasaki  house. 
His  charming  bungalow,  picturesquely  situated  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea,  looked  out  of  a  pretty  garden  amidst 
playing  fountains  upon  the  bay  and  terraced  slopes  beyond. 

We  had  English  pease,  lettuce,  Irish  potatoes,  tomatoes, 
fine  roasts,  fish,  devil-crabs,  puddings,  and  strawberries  and 
cream,  for  dinner.  Among  the  invited  guests  were  Gen- 
eral Jones  and  lady,  of  Virginia — American  Consul  here — 
Sir  John,  Judge  Flanders  and  Judge  Wilkins,  of  St.  Paul, 
Minnesota.  The  latter  gentlemen  had  just  reached  Japan 
en  a  voyage  around  the  world. 

Here  were  the  Japan  plum  (Biwa),  pine-tree,  magnolia, 
cherry,  peach,  orange  (dwarf  seedless),  China-tree,  fig,  and 
bamboo,  growing  in  Mr.  Rogers's  gardens.  Mr.  Rogers's 
beautiful  wife  (American)  and  Mrs.  Jones  did  the  honors 
in  the  most  charming  style. 

Oranges  grow  as  high  as  thirty-four  degrees  north  latitude 
in  Japan,  even  where  the  snow  falls  several  feet  deep.  It 
is  thought  the  morning  sun  kills  the  bud,  when  frozen,  in 
these  high  latitudes,  as  in  California. 

Lovely  azelias,  roses,  ferns,  camelias,  box-wood,  cedars, 
etc.,  flourish  in  Japan.  The  raspberries  and  strawberries 
are  very  fine.  Barley  and  bearded  wheat  are  most  univer- 
sally grown. 

We  left  Nagasaki  on  the  6th  of  June,  sailing  up  a  pict- 
uresque coast  all  day,  until  we  reached  Bekan,  Si-mo-na- 
sa-ki — entrance  to  the  Inland  Sea.  On  our  left  is  a  long 
town  of  wooden  houses.  A  curious  rock  rising  out  of  the 
ocean  presented  a  natural  gate-way  on  our  voyage  to-day. 
It  is  God's  own  marvelous  creation.  The  Inland  Sea  is  the 
great  water  passage  between  Niphon  and  Kiusiu.  This 
wonderful  sea,  studded  with  its  thousands  of  little  islands, 


Japanese  People,  Houses,  and  Customs.  571 

stretches  two  hundred  and  forty  miles,  to  Kobe,  and  is  prob- 
ably ten  miles  wide.  The  scenery  is  remarkably  fine,  being 
mountains,  and  often  terraced  to  their  very  tops,  visible  on 
either  side.  The  tortuous  channel  through  which  we  thread 
our  way  surprised  us  with  revelations  of  the  grandest 
views— sometimes  a  white  sand-hill,  resembling  a  mountain 
of  snow.  This  Inland  Sea  is  crowded  with  sampans,  steam- 


A  NATURAL  GATE-WAY. 

ers,  and  junks.  In  case  of  a  squall  their  square  topsails  can 
be  dropped  in  a  lump.  Dr.  Hendrix  observed  that  the  sails 
come  down  like  the  people  drop,  "  all  in  a  heap."  We  can 
see  the  villages  on  shore,  with  their  fishing-smacks,  patches 
of  wheat,  long  radishes  and  turnips — the  green  alternating 
with  the  gold ;  the  ground  being  forced  under  high  culture 
and  manure  to  produce  its  crop  of  beans,  cotton,  or  vegeta- 
bles —  often  two  or  three  crops  a  year. 


Around  the  World  in  1884- 


Each  village  has  its  grave-yard  too  on  the  hill-sides,  where 
reluctant  nature  has  refused  to  respond  to  the  toiling  labor- 
er's hand.  When  they  bury  their  dead  they  dress  in  white 
for  mourning,  and  usually  bury  at  sunset.  They  love  the 
living  and  reverence  the  dead ;  but  do  not  worship  as  the 
Chinese  in  every  respect,  although  Confucius  has  left  a  deep 
impression  on  these  people.  They  decorate  their  graves  with 
flowers  as  we  do.  Two  bamboo  joints  are  placed  to  hold 
the  loving  offerings  each  day.  They  bury  in  jars,  in  a  sit- 
ting posture,  as  well  as  in  camphor  coffins. 

In  the  dim  distance  we  see  Kobe  gleaming  above  a  low 
coast-line.  Away  in  the  background  rise  lofty  mountains. 
Hiogo  is  the  native  town,  while  Kobe  adjoining  is  the  Eu- 
ropean city.  Here  are  banks,  post-office,  telegraph  office, 
hotels,  newspaper  offices,  great  export  houses,  etc.  Mrs. 
Appleton,  a  Virginian,  like  many  of  our  missionaries  in 
China,  has  come  up  to  Japan  for  her  health.  She  is  a  very 
pretty  little  woman,  with  a  sweet  little  cherub  in  her  arms, 
upon  whose  mother's  cheeks  we  hope  Japan  will  paint  the 
roses  that  have  faded  away  in  Shanghai. 

We  could  go  by  water  up  the  bay  to  Osaka,  but  the 
tempting  jinrikisha  and  railroad  are  too  near  at  hand. 
Here  is  the  first  railroad  we  have  seen  since  leaving  Ceylon. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  heavy  steel  rails, 
laid  in  solid  ballast,  with  first,  second,  and  third  class 
coaches,  station-houses  of  brick,  waiting-rooms,  and  booking 
offices,  are  decidedly  English  in  their  personal  aspects.  The 
rules  and  regulations  are  the  same,  with  Japanese  officers, 
conductors,  and  engineers.  This  splendid  line  connects 
Osaka,  twenty-one  miles,  with  Kioto,  twenty-three  miles 
beyond. 

Osaka  is  the  Venice  of  Japan  (four  hundred  and  thirty 
thousand  inhabitants),  with  its  hundreds  of  canals  and 
bridges ;  a  city  of  temples,  pagodas,  curio-shops,  stores,  man- 


Japanese  People,  Houses,  and  Customs.  573 

ufactures,  and  native  hotels;  celebrated  for  its  old  castle, 
the  new  city  hall,  mint,  and  splendid  depot.  Its  stores  are 
filled  with  goods,  which  can  be  easily  replenished  from  the 
wholesale  houses,  called  go-downs.  It  is  a  primitive  Japa- 
nese city,  a  great  commercial  place,  being  connected  with 
Kobe  by  the  bay,  or  water  navigation,  as  well  as  by  rail. 

Kioto  was  the  Mikado's  former  or  western  capital,  full 
of  temples,  shrines,  and  sacred  buildings.  It  numbers  some 
two  hundred  and  forty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  the 
Canton  of  Japan.  Here  exquisite  crapes,  silks,  lacquer, 
bronzes,  kakimonies,  and  fans  are  made. 

From  Kioto  to  Biwa  Lake,  nine  miles  by  jinrikisha — a 
charming  spot — thence  return  to  Kobe  by  rail. 

Our  road  runs  through  a  broad,  fertile  plain  from  the 
mountains  to  the  sea.  It  must  be  twenty-five  to  thirty 
miles  wide  and  fifty  miles  long.  The  farms  are  divided  off 
into  so  many  gardens,  one  to  three  acres,  and  these  into 
small  beds  of  all  possible  shapes,  some  square  and  others 
round.  Through  them  run  the  irrigating  ditches,  with 
paths  raised  a  little  above,  on  which  the  coolies  pass  with 
their  baskets  and  buckets,  swinging  from  each  end  of  a 
bamboo  pole.  These  paths  are  wide  enough  for  horses, 
which  they  use  as  well  as  bullocks  in  cultivating  their  farms. 
The  plow  has  one  handle,  as  in  all  Eastern  countries  from 
Syria  to  China,  which  the  farmer  holds  in  one  hand  and 
guides  by  a  rope  he  holds  himself,  or  a  bamboo  pole  tied  to 
the  bullock's  or  horse's  nose  by  a  short  rope,  guided  by  a 
boy.  When  the  land  is  once  plowed  it  is  drawn  up  into 
ridges  or  beds  with  a  hoe.  Between  the  beds  the  water 
flows  from  the  ditches  when  irrigation  is  needed.  I  saw  the 
farmers  cutting  their  grain  with  the  hand  sickle,  threshing 
out  the  rape-seed,  from  which  oil  is  made,  and  burning  up 
the  bushes  in  the  fields.  This  land  will  be  plowed  up, 
manured,  and  flooded,  to  receive  a  crop  of  rice-plants.  The 


574  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

method  is  the  same  as  described  in  China,  only  the  Jap- 
anese plant  by  a  line  often,  and  are  more  methodical  and 
painstaking.  Here  are  radishes  growing  two  feet  long, 
which  are  eaten  by  the  natives  all  the  year  round.  The 
farmers  live  in  villages;  but  men,  women,  and  children  are 


PEASANT  GIRLS. 

seen  working  in  the  field.  They  make  fans  out  of  bamboo 
and  winnow  their  rice  and  other  grain.  The  straw  is  made 
into  shoes,  mats,  and  coats  of  different  kinds.  The  bamboo 
is  split  up  fine  and  manufactured  into  mats  for  their  tem- 
ples, shrines,  and  houses.  Every  thing  is  economized— 
nothing  lost.  The  Japanese  grow  large  fields  of  egg-plants, 
indigo,  beets,  cabbages,  and  beans  as  well.  The  farmers, 
with  their  umbrella  hats  on  (bamboo,  two  to  three  feet  broad), 
blue  blouses,  short  leggins,  and  their  wives  with  their 


Japanese  People,  Houses,  and  Customs.  575 

skirts  tucked  up,  all  standing  in  line  in  the  mud  two  feet 
deep  setting  out  rice-plants,  is  a  sight  never  to  be  forgot- 
ten. 

In  our  first-class  coach  the  leather  seats  were  arranged  on 
the  sides,  with  no  wash-bowl,  glass,  or  closets.  Opposite  was 
our  genial  captain  and  the  Japanese  purser,  wreathed  in 
smiles.  Two  beautiful  Japanese  girls  were  going  up  to 
Kioto,  and  they  sat  opposite  too.  They  were  dressed  in 
charming  silks,  with  sashes,  girdles,  and  their  national  cos- 
tumes, called  the  kimono.  Their  heads  were  under  con- 
tract by  the  week,  and  I  noticed  each  carried  in  her 
girdle  a  package  of  small  bits,  or  squares,  of  tissue-paper, 
which  confused  me  with  perplexity.  Afterward  I  heard 
they  were  tiny  handkerchiefs,  which  they  use  once,  twirl  up 
with  their  fingers,  and  send  whizzing  away  into  the  air.  It 
is  not  etiquette  to  use  a  handkerchief  but  once  in  Japan. 
The  following  interesting  description  of  how  the  Japanese 
girls  do  is  full  of  interest,  I  apprehend,  to  girls  in  other 
lands : 

"  When  a  Japanese  girl  gets  up  in  the  morning  she  washes 
her  face,  but  does  not  have  to  dress  her  hair.  That  is  at- 
tended to  but  once  a  week.  The  hair-dresser  comes  to  the 
house  and  arranges  her  jet-black  locks  in  the  fashion  for 
little  girls  of  her  age.  So  she  .has  no  trouble  about  her 
hair,  and  after  her  bath  the  servant  assists  her  to  powder 
her  neck  with  a  small  white  brush.  She  puts  a  little  red 
paint  on  her  lower  lip,  and  a  little  gilding  in  the  middle. 
When  she  removes  her  sleeping-dress  she  has  on  only  a 
short  skirt,  which  is  simply  a  square  piece  of  cloth,  crape, 
or  silk  tied  around  the  waist.  No  other  under-clothing  is 
worn.  In  making  her  toilet  for  the  day  she  first  puts  on  a 
garment  usually  made  of  some  coarse  material,  not  very 
long,  and  reaching  only  to  the  waist,  but  with  long  sleeves. 
On  the  neck  of  this  garment  is  sewed  a  deep  fold  of  scarlet 


576  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

or  some  bright-colored  crape  or  silk.  A  long,  straight  skirt 
of  blue  or  red  crape,  silk,  or  wool  is  tied  around  the  waist, 
and  over  all  three  of  these  garments  is  worn  the  kimono,  or 
dress.  This  is  of  some  dark  color,  and  made  of  coarse  spun 
silk  or  thick  crape.  For  festivals  and  holidays  the  dresses 
are  of  very  fine  material  and  very  handsome.  The  outer 
dress  is  simply  a  wrapper  reaching  to  the  feet,  with  very 
long  and  wide  sleeves  hanging  nearly  to  the  ground,  and 
used  as  pockets.  On  each  shoulder  a  deep  tuck  is  made, 
which  extends  to  the  waist,  thus  making  a  little  fullness  for 
the  skirt.  But  the  dress  has  no  gathers,  and  is  straight  all 
the  way  down.  The  neck  is  adorned  with  a  wide  piece  of 
black  velvet  or  satin,  which  reaches  nearly  to  the  waist, 
and  the  dress  is  crossed  over  the  bosom  and  confined  by  a 
girdle.  Over  this  is  worn  a  very  wide  sash,  a  piece  'of  bro- 
caded silk  or  satin,  stiff  with  embroidery  in  gold  or  silver, 
lined  with  soft  silk  and  fastened  behind  in  a  very  large 
bow.  When  these  are  all  on,  but  barefooted,  or  if  in  cool 
weather  in  white  mitten  socks,  made  to  reach  only  to  the 
ankle,  and  with  a  place  in  which  to  put  the  great  toe  (just 
as  mittens  have  a  place  for  the  thumb),  she  goes  out  to  say 
*  Ohaio/  or  '  Good-morning,'  to  her  father  and  mother." 

Our  time  was  occupied  in  studying  scenery  inside  now, 
instead  of  outside.  We  saw  no  more  crops,  views,  or  mount- 
ains that  day,  until  we  had  parted  at  Osaka  with  the  pretty 
damsels,  who  sped  on  their  way. 

We  never  met  a  foreigner  in  Osaka.  We  were  detained 
here  a  day  waiting  for  a  guide  and  passports  from  Kobe. 
The  native  hotel  furnished  good  accommodations,  with 
knives  and  forks  for  us.  I  observed  native  gentlemen,  officers 
of  the  army,  dining  with  chop-sticks.  They  shuffle  in  the 
rice  from  bowls  like  the  Chinese,  but  eat  soup  with  spoons. 
We  enjoyed  a  magnificent  view  of  the  level  plain  from  the 
lofty  pagoda  of  the  principal  temple;  visited  the  mint, 


Japanese  People,  Houses,  and  Customs.  577 

which  coins  the  copper,  gold,  and  silver  of  Japan.  The  peo- 
ple complain  because  the  Government  does  n't  put  holes  in 
the  money.  Paper  money  of  denominations  of  ten  to  nine- 
ty sens  is  largely  used.  One  hundred  sens  equal  one  yen, 
which  is  ninety  cents  of  our  money.  A  very  small  copper, 
called  cash  by  foreigners,  a  fraction  of  a  sen  (or  cent),  has 
a  hole  in  it.  The  paper  bill  yens  run  two,  five,  twenty, 
fifty,  and  one  hundred.  The  mint  machinery  was  imported 
from  Europe,  and  is  the  finest  I  ever  saw.  There  were 
none  but  Japanese  officials  in  charge. 

The  Cyclopean  masonry  of  solid  blocks  of  granite — forty 
feet  long,  fifteen  feet  high,  and  eight  feet  thick — are  seen  in 
the  castle.  The  difficulty  of  transporting  these  stones  from 
the  quarries,  two  hundred  miles  distant,  each  one  as  big  as 
Cleopatra's  Needle  at  Alexandria,  puzzles  the  philosopher 
of  this  day.  It  is  another  Baalbec  mystery  to  me.  If 
they  brought  them  here  by  water  the  Japanese  craft  and 
engineering  were  equal  to  the  Cheops  machinery  with  which 
the  Pyramids  were  erected. 

In  Kioto  we  stopped  at  the  Jiutei,  an  excellent  native  ho- 
tel, on  the  slope  of  a  lofty  mountain.  The  panorama  of  the 
city  below,  with  its  hundreds  of  shrines  and  temples,  its 
white  castle,  Imperial  Palace,  and  Exhibition  Hall,  is  very 
impressive  and  full  of  beauty.  Kioto  is  a  city  of  amuse- 
ments— ancient  operas,  comedy,  farce,  and  tragedies.  Here 
the  pretty  posturing  and  singing  girls  are  found  in  great 
numbers ;  festivals  nearly  every  day ;  Jbonfires  on  the  mount- 
ains at  night,  arranged  to  represent  different  devices ;  and 
endless  rounds  of  sight-seeing  in  the  suburbs. 

Once  a  year,  at  the  Kamigamo  (Shinto  Temple),  on  the 
5th  of  May,  the  keba,  or  horse,-race,  takes  place.  Here  two 
sons  of  kings,  who  disputed  a  right  of  succession,  once  ran 
for  a  throne. 

At  the  temple  of  Higashi  Hongwanji  I  find  the  priest  of 
37 


578  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

the  Buddhist  sect  Monto,  very  wealthy,  are  educating  mis- 
sionaries for  Europe  and  America  in  several  languages. 

Nara  being  twelve  ri,  or  thirty-six  miles,  distant,  south  of 
Kioto,  we  were  not  able  to  visit  the  great  Dai  Butsu.  This 
idol-image  of  Buddha  was  cast  in  749,  more  than  eleven 
hundred  years  ago.  It  is  fifty-three  feet  six  inches  high, 
made  of  copper  plates  and  a  little  gold.  Inside  is  a  temple 
decorated  with  altars,  shrines,  etc.  It  is  said  a  man  can 
crawl  out  of  his  nose,  it  being  three  feet  in  diameter.  A  stone 
lantern,  brought  from  Ceylon  centuries  ago,  probably,  has 
been  burning  ever  since.  Many  small  deer,  very  gentle, 
are  found  in  the  mountains.  Tea-bushes  here,  five  hundred 
years  old,  produce  the  finest  tea  in  Japan. 

A  trip  down  the  rapids  of  Oigawa  Kiver  is  attended  by 
the  wildest  excitement.  The  natives  shoot  you  through  the 
mountain-gorge,  in  long  boats,  at  a  fearful  rate. 

We  saw  Japanese  persimmons  in  bloom  along  the  road 
from  Kioto  to  Biwa  Lake  for  three  ri,  or  nine  miles.  The 
trees  were  of  immense  size,  but  very  similar  in  leaf  and  bark 
to  our  own.  The  Japanese  dry  the  fruit  like  figs,  and  they 
are  much  relished  as  a  dessert  by  foreigners  when  ripe,  being 
eaten  in  milk  with  a  spoon.  They  grow  to  the  size  of  an 
apple  here,  of  a  deep  blood-red  color  (seedless),  which  is 
not  always  an  indication  of  maturity.  This  persimmon  will 
undoubtedly  grow  finely  in  our  cotton-belt,  which  experi- 
ments already  made  by  Mr.  P.  J.  Berckmans,  of  Augusta, 
have  fully  demonstrated.  Mr.  C.  Menelas,  of  Savannah, 
W.  W.  Thompson,  near  Smithville,  and  H.  H.  Sanford, 
of  Thomasville,  Ga.,  have  had  equal  success.  They  are 
most  delicious  after  frost,  and  bear  transportation  well. 
The  great  Tokaido,  or  national  highway  between  Kioto 
and  Tokio,  would  afford  us  ten  days  of  beautiful  traveling 
by  our  pull-man  cars;  but  we  must  hasten  our  return  from 
Biwa  by  rail  to  Kobe.  Our  route  lies  through  terraced 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  579 


gardens  of  tea,  which  are  cultivated  in  low-trimmed  hedges. 
From  the  Hiogo  Hotel  (English)  we  visit  the  Cascades, 
back  of  Kobe,  up  long,  winding  paths  by  tea-houses,  a 
thousand  feet,  or  higher,  from  which  we  enjoy  an  enrapt- 
ured view  of  the  city  and  shipping  in  the  harbor.  Kobe 
and  Hiogo  are  full  of  curio-shops,  temples,  photograph 
(native)  houses,  etc.  But  the  curio-shops  most  interested 
us.  Hari  Shin  hangs  a  sword  over  his  gate  and  leaves  one 
to  stumble  in  accidentally.  Hidden  away  back  there  is  a 
room  full  of  old  saddles  and  state  kagos,  or  palanquins;  a 
niche  full  of  old  banners  and  spears ;  an  apartment  piled 
high  and  hung  with  old  dresses,  brocade  draperies,  and  uni- 
forms; rooms  filled  with  carved  and  gilded  Buddhas;  di- 
vine Kwannons  more  or  less  battered  and  worn,  and  rooms 
of  old  china,  old  lacquer,  and  old  wood-carving.  The  last 
room  looks  upon  a  little  garden,  which  of  course  holds  its 
miniature  pond  crossed  by  a  stone  bridge,  its  stone  lantern 
under  the  shadow  of  a  tree  at  the  water's  edge,  and  bronze 
storks  and  stunted  pines  along  the  slope  of  the  small  mount- 
ain cunningly  represented  at  one  end.  Across  the  garden 
are  three  more  rooms  of  armor,  coins,  and  all  kinds  of 
ancient  things;  and  a  second  story  repeats  all  the  labyrinth 
of  rooms  filled  with  more  and  more  curios. 

The  days  of  hara-kiri,  when  the  disgraced  man  killed 
himself,  are  gone.  The  imposing  ceremonies  attending  the 
hara-kiri  were  similar  to  a  duel. 


CHAPTER  LVI. 

FROM  NAGASAKI  TO  YOKOHAMA. 

Kobe  to  Yokohama,  up  the  coast  of  the  broad 
JL  Pacific,  is  two  hundred  and  forty-six  miles.  Our  cap- 
tain (Connor)  and  purser  had  returned  from  their  jaunt  up 
to  Kioto.  But  we  miss  two  of  our  brightest  faces  from 


580 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


Shanghai — Mrs.  Appleton  and  Miss  Colt.  Miss  Colt  was 
traveling  with  her  aged  father  around  the  world  the  sec- 
ond time.  They  were  just  up  from  Manilla,  about  the 
equator,  where  they  had  passed  the  winter.  Charming 
Miss  Colt!  she  was  so  chatty  and  gossipy  with  the  captain. 
We  all  enjoyed  her  company  and  occasional  good  shots  at 
the  commanding  officer.  She  had  smuggled  her  little  pet 


THE  EASTERN   SHORE. 


Japanese  dog  in  her  state-room,  and  the  captain  overheard 
it  in  passing.  "  First-class  passage  for  two,  Miss  Colt ;  the 
ship's  rules  must  be  observed."  "We  will  have  this  ship 
stop,  Captain  Connor,  and  you  put  off  here,"  she  facetiously 
replied. 

Our  table  has  been  .superb,  with  a  great  variety  of  Chi- 
nese and  Japanese  articles.      We  eat  Japanese  rice,  fish,. 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  581 

eggs,  oranges,  pears,  and  chickens;  Chinese  mutton,  beef, 
turkeys,  potatoes,  etc.;  while  America  contributes  to  the 
larder  in  hams,  bacon,  flour,  buckwheat,  and  sugar.  We 
have  Chinese  and  Japanese  teas,  pea-nuts,  and  American 
waffles.  The  Japanese  oranges  are  seedless,  thin  peel,  of 
oval  shape,  and  very  delicious — mostly  Tangerene  variety. 
Our  rice  is  steamed  after  being  boiled  a  little,  which  ex- 
pands every  grain  twice  its  size,  standing  by  itself.  Eaten 
with  curry  and  Bombay  ducks  (dried  fish)  from  India,  as 
it  is  all  around  the  world,  it  is  a  most  excellent  dish. 

We  have  Japanese  and  Chinese  first-class  passengers,  the 
latter  being  the  bankers  and  brokers  in  many  Japanese 
cities.  In  traveling  across  the  Pacific  they  nearly  all  go 
steerage — here,  first-class. 

Arriving  in  the  Gulf  of  Yedo  early  on  the  morning  of 
the  12th  of  June,  I  looked  out  of  my  port  upon  the  snow- 
mantled  brow  of  Fuji-Yama,  seventy  miles  distant — an  ex- 
tinct volcano  that  rises  twelve  thousand  and  fifty  feet  high, 
with  a  crater  three  miles  in  circumference  and  two  hundred 
feet  deep.  It  is  the  sacred  mountain  of  Japan,  much  ven- 
erated by  the  people.  It  enters  into  all  their  art.  Its  lofty 
summit  dominates  the  landscape  for  one  hundred  miles 
around.  It  can  be  ascended  from  two  or  three  sides,  as 
it  rises  with  a  majestic  sweep  from  the  plain  and  sea-shore. 
Having  finally  made  our  way  through  the  fishing-smacks, 
sampans,  and  junks,  we  anchor.  A  little  steam-yacht,  fly- 
ing the  American  colors,  lands  us  at  the  pier,  and  we  take 
jinrikishas  for  the  Windsor  House,  18  Bund — American 
hotel.  Magnificent !  Every  comfort  and  luxury  that  could 
be  desired.  Facing  the  sea,  it  commands  a  grand  view  of  the 
ocean.  William,  the  American  colored  steward,  serves  us 
with  delicious  strawberries  of  immense  size  and  good  flavor. 
For  breakfast  we  have  waffles,  hot  biscuits,  and  Goshen  butter, 
sirup  and  batter-cakes.  This  looks  like  a  civilized  country. 


582  Around  the  World  iti  1884. 

The  popular  thoroughfares  in  the  European  city  are 
the  Bund  and  main  streets,  upon  which  are  erected  many 
fine  brick  houses,  curio-shops,  steam-ship  offices,  a  tea-hong, 
with  pretty,  well-paved  drives  between  high  walls.  The 
Honcho  Dori  and  Benten  Dori  are  the  principal  native 
streets,  which  contain  shops  of  the  finest  lacquer-ware, 
bronzes,  porcelain,  silks,  etc.  These  articles  are  exten- 
sively manufactured  here.  A  few  of  the  native  houses  are 
brick,  but  oftener  wooden,  with  heavy  eaves. 

The  foreigners  live  out  on  the  bluff,  in  the  rear  of  the  city. 
Their  charming  homes  command  a  grand  view  of  Fuji- Yama, 
the  city,  and  ocean.  The  English,  Americans,  Germans, 
and  other  foreigners,  bring  their  habits  with  them  to  China 
and  Japan,  as  the  people  from  this  side  of  the  Pacific 
carry  theirs  across.  There  is  a  United  States  naval  hos- 
pital here,  a  foreign  cemetery,  and  beyond  a  race-course 
and  rifle-range.  Near  by  are  Boehmer's  Gardens,  No.  28, 
the  most  extensive  nursery  for  native  and  exotic  plants  and 
flowers  in  Japan.  Here  the  Japonica  in  all  its  native  glory 
— Japanese  persimmon  at  home — chrysanthemums,  bulbs, 
seeds,  etc.,  are  to  be  found.  Messrs.  Kuhn  &  Co.,  79  Main 
street,  and  Messrs.  Deakin  Brothers,  16  Bund,  from  whom  we 
purchased  a  large  collection  of  curios,  are  German  and  Ameri- 
can merchants  of  the  highest  standing. 

Japanese  artists  will  paint  your  portraits  from  life  on  silk 
panels ;  tattoo  your  body,  arms,  or  legs  in  India  ink,  with 
fruits  and  flowers,  or  huge  snakes  coiled  around,  with  ven- 
omous-looking tongues  protruding,  a  fox  with  the  hounds  in. 
full  chase,  and  in  other  fanciful  designs.  Many  foreigners 
patronize  these  artists,  as  well  as  the  side-shows,  wrestling, 
boxing,  fencing,  acrobatic  feats,  theaters,  etc. — all  kinds  of 
amusements.  The  Japanese  are  a  festive  people,  fond  of 
holidays,  plays,  etc.  They  have  their  picnics  and  May 
parties  on  the  wooded  hills,  and  celebrate  them  with  in- 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  583 

tense  enthusiasm.  In  their  legends  and  folk-lore  are  stories 
like  "Uncle  Remus's  brer  rabbit  and  brer  fox,"  so  inimi- 
tably told  by  my  friend  Joel  C.  Harris.  The  children  are 
fond  of  their  cats  without  tails,  and  play  with  their  little 
spotted  dogs — all  eyes. 

Besides  jinrikishas,  there  are  livery-stables  in  Yokohama, 
horses,  traps,  and  bettos.  The  betto  is  a  hostler  or  out- 
runner, who  is  always  at  the  horse's  head,  either  standing 
or  trotting;  but  he  answers  the  place  for  a  horse-rack  as  a 
rule.  The  foreign  ladies,  English,  French,  German,  Rus- 
sian, Italian,  Dutch,  Portuguese,  and  Hungarian — all  coun- 
tries are  represented  here,  but  especially  the  English,  who 
outnumber  all  foreigners  except  Chinese — are  fond  of  driv- 
ing down  the  Bund  with  the  outrunner.  Only  a  few  wealthy 
people  ride  horseback. 

A  missionary  first  introduced  the  jinrikisha  here  about 
fifteen  years  ago.  Thousands  of  these  baby-carriages  are 
made  in  this  city  and  Tokio,  at  twenty-two  dollars  apiece. 
The  natives  run  stables  of  these  as  well  as  livery,  the  men 
taking  the  places  of  horses. 

The  Japanese  shoe  is  a  wonderful  thing.  It  is  usually  a 
sandal  or  clog.  The  first  is  made  of  wheat  or  rice  straw, 
sometimes  with  a  leather  sole,  and  is  much  more  durable 
than  might  be  supposed.  A  pair  of  straw  shoes  can  be 
bought  for  two  cents.  The  clog  is  a  piece  of  kiri  wood,* 
cut  the  size  of  the  foot,  raised  two  or  three  inches  above 
the  ground  by  cross  pieces  of  board,  one  near  the  heel 
and  one  near  the  toe,  inserted  tight  in  the  grooves  and 
glued.  Both  styles  are  held  upon  the  foot  by  a  cord  com- 
ing between  the  big  and  second  toes  from  over  both  sides 
of  the  feet.  Sometimes  they  are  worn  without  stockings; 
but  the  short  stockings  usually  worn  have  a  separate  toe 
knit  for  the  big  toe,  like  a  thumb  of  a  glove,  to  permit  the 

*  The  kiri-tree  is  cultivated  in  Japan  for  making  wooden  shoes. 


584  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

<>ord  to  pass  through,  which  holds  the  shoe  in  place.  -This 
arrangement  allows  the  wearer,  by  a  shake  of  the  foot,  to 
leave  the  shoes  at  the  doors  of  their  houses,  temples,  etc.,  so 
that  no  dust  or  mud  ever  soils  the  mat  upon  the  floor. 
These  elevated  clogs  are  preferred  for  wet  weather.  When 
a  train  arrives,  the  sound  of  these  wooden  shoes  clanking 
on  the  pavement  produces  a  deafening  noise. 

The  babies  and  small  brats  are  all  carried  in  a  loose  sack 
on  the  back ;  the  back  part  of  the  blouse  is  made  loose,  and 
confined  at  the  waist  by  a  belt,  so  the  babies  can  be  dropped 
in  on  the  back  of  the  nurse.  Old  men,  grandmas,  and  lit- 
tle girls  six  years  old  I  have  seen  employed  in  this  way. 
When  a  foreigner  passes  through  the  invariable  one  straight 
street,  the  whole  population  of  the  village  swarm  in  front 
of  the  doors — so  you  can  take  the  census. 

The  Japanese,  like  the  Chinese,  hold  filial  reverence  one 
of  their  highest  duties.  The  authority  of  parents  is  held 
in  sacred  veneration  even  by  the  married  sons,  who  never 
grow  so  old  as  to  feel  themselves  free  from  parental  re- 
straint. This  devotion  and  respect  of  children  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  parts  of  their  domestic  life.  The  son  never 
marries  without  deference  to  his  widowed  mother's  wishes, 
and  when  married  often  spends  his  life  with  her,  his  wife  as 
well  as  he  being  considered  under  her  authority.  It  is  a 
rare  thing  to  ever  see  a  baby  cry,  or  a  naughty  child,  in 
Japan.  But  it  must  not  be  inferred  that  society  is  unat- 
tended with  concomitant  evils.  Immorality  and  licentious- 
ness prevail  here,  as  elsewhere.  I  believe  the  wife  is  gen- 
erally true  and  virtuous,  but  daughters  by  poor  parents  are 
sold  for  concubines,  and  even  to  mistresses  of  abandoned 
houses ;  but  after  a  girl  has  fallen,  she  is  often  sought  in  hon- 
orable marriage,  especially  if  she  has  been  the  mistress  of 
foreigners.  I  have  seen  it  stated  that  the  natives  whip  their ; 
wives,  and  that  even  women  of  the  higher  classes  are  sus- 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  585 

pected  of  infidelity,  in  the  city  of  Tokio.  A  native  some- 
times asks  a  foreigner,  "  How  in  the  world  you  manage  your 
women  without  beating  them?" 

Shintooism  seems  to  have  been  the  primitive  religion  of 
Japan.  I  have  seen  no  idols  in  the  Shintoo  temples — they 
claim  to  have  none — but  generally  a  mirror,  representing 
the  all-seeing  eye  of  the  deity.  In  this  glass  you  must  study 
your  faults,  correct  them  in  life,  etc.  A  foolish  tradition,  con- 
necting with  its  history  some  goddess  who  became  enraged 
once  and  then  happy  again  on  beholding  her  beauty  in  the 
mirror,  is  given  by  the  guide.  This  Shintooism,  or  looking- 
glass  religion,  would  appear  to  be  popular  in  other  countries. 

We  visited  a  famous  old  temple,  eleven  miles  in  the  coun- 
try by  rail,  on  the  road  to  Tokio,  near  Omori  station.  It 
is  situated  one  and  a  half  mile  distant,  at  Ikegami  (upper 
lake),  erected  in  honor  of  Nichiren.  Returning,  we  came 
along  the  sea-shore,  through  a  fertile  country,  by  Black- 
eyed  Susan's  tea-house,  and  made  the  last  three  miles  by 
jinrikisha,  in  exactly  eighteen  minutes,  to  the  Windsor 
Hotel.  Our  men  had  legs  like  ostriches,  and  used  them 
too.  (Backshish). 

Black-eyed  Susan's  has  become  historical,  since  the  pres- 
ent occupants  of  the  inn  are  connected  with  the  Pocahon- 
tas  of  Japanese  tradition  who  once  saved  the  life  of  an  En- 
glish sailor  on  this  spot  by  her  intercession  with  his  captors. 
Of  course  they  married. 

Another  delightful  day  was  enjoyed  in  visiting  Kama- 
kura,  formerly  the  Shoguns'  capital  of  Japan,  and  the  great 
Dai  Butsu  (pronounced  Di-boots),  eighteen  miles  distant. 
We  passed  over  many  stone  bridges,  through  thirty  or  forty 
villages — from  five  hundred  to  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants, 
perhaps — where  the  people  were  at  work  in  their  fields  and 
shops  on  Sunday.  We  saw  plenty  of  heathen  temples,  but 
few  worshipers — many  of  the  old  temples  are  going  to  decay, 


586  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

and  others  are  used  for  school-houses.  They  have  bells,  gen- 
erally in  front,  to  wake  up  the  gods,  which  they  do  by  clap- 
ping their  hands ;  then  they  mumble  something,  throw  one- 
tenth  of  a  cent  into  the  treasure-box,  and  leave. 

At  Kamakura  there  is  a  tree  (icho~)  one  thousand  years 
old.  Yoritomo,  the  first  Shogun,  made  this  his  capital  in 
1185.  Many  a  bloody  battle  has  been  fought  around  these 


BTTDDHA. 


hills.  The  temple  (Shintoo)  is  reached  by  climbing  fifty- 
eight  stone  steps  from  which  a  grand  view  of  the  ocean  is 
enjoyed.  Some  very  old  swords,  carvings  inlaid  with  gold, 
an  ink-stand,  bows,  arrows,  etc.,  are  shown  us  by  the  priest. 
In  a  mile  and  a  half  down  the  valley  we  stand  in  front 
of  the  colossal  bronze  idol  Buddha,  cast  in  1252,  that  is 
three  feet  lower  than  the  one  I  described  at  Nara — this  one 
being  just  fifty  feet  high.  We  went  inside  of  the  old  hea- 


From.  Xayaxaki  to  Yokohama.  587 


then,  but  his  nose  being  only  two  feet  wide  we  were  unable 
to  crawl  out.  There  is  a  window  in  his  back  which  looks 
out  on  a  pretty  landscape.  We  had  our  picture  taken  sitting 
in  his  arras,  thirty  feet  above  the  ground,  reached  by  a  lad- 
der. An  earthquake  has  shaken  the  old  gentleman  up  once, 
and  a  tidal-wave  nearly  carried  him  out  to  sea.  This  image 
was  cast  in  sections  and  put  together,  weighing  half  a  million 
pounds.  His  face  is  eight  feet  long,  ear  six,  nostrils  two 
feet  three  inches,  and  mouth  three  feet  three  inches  wide. : 
In  his  forehead  appears  the  inevitable  wart.  His  thumb  is 


FIRE  ENGINE.* 

eight  inches  long  and  ten  wide ;  from  elbow  to  waist  is  eight 
feet.  Kamakura  was  the  Shogun  capital  for  four  hundred 
years,  down  to  the  sixteenth  century,  when  it  was  moved 
to  Yedo,  the  present  capital  of  the  Mikado.  Japanese  tem- 
ples, like  their  wooden  houses,  are  very  perishable.  Fires 
sweep  away  whole  cities  sometimes.  The  law  compels  ev- 
erybody to. carry  lamps  after  dark.  As  we  had  made  about 
forty  miles  with  the  same  men,  we  were  rather  late  returning. 

*The  people  pump  the  water  up  in  buckets,  and  run  to  put  out  the  fires, 
just  like  we  do  in  Georgia  towns. 


588  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

From  Yokohama  to  Tokio  is  eighteen  miles,  with  an  oc- 
casional glimpse  of  the  sea.  A  village  on  either  side  of  the 
railroad  extends  the  whole  way;  Three  round  stone  forts 
in  the  harbor,  with  frowning  batteries,  command  the  ap- 
proaches to  the  capital.  Tokio  is  an  immense  wooden  city 
of  unpainted  houses — full  of  shrines,  temples,  palaces,  and 
sacred  places.  There  are  a  few  magnificent  modern  brick 
structures,  like  the  Club  House,  Naval  School,  foreign 
schools,  Dai  Gakko,  Imperial  College,  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  foreign  ministers'  and  consulates'  residences,  Engi- 
neering College,  etc.  The  residences  command  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  city  from  Castle  Hill.  The  population  is  prob- 
ably one  million.  But  we  cannot  compare  Tokio  with 
New  York,  Edinburgh,  Paris,  London,  or  Berlin  for  magnifi- 
cence. A  Japanese  wooden  city  and  a  foreign  town  are  as 
much*  unlike  as  their  people.  But  there  is  a  world  of  won- 
ders here,  full  of  curious  interest  and  study.  The  temples 
of  Shiba,  Ueno,  Akasaka  Go  Mon,  and  Asaksa  are  the  most 
celebrated.  Shiba  is  the  garden  of  Tokio,  full  of  pebbled 
walks  and  flowers.  Its  court,  fronting  the  templ-e  of  Zojoji, 
contains  two  hundred  stone  lanterns.  Here  are  the  tombs 
of  the  Shoguns  and  Mikados.  Seven  of  the  Tokugawa 
family  sleep  here,  and  five  at  Ueno.  Jyeyasu  *  and  Jyemitsu 
are  gorgeously  entombed  at  Nikko.  Zojoji  is  full  of  images, 
holy  storks  resting  on  beds  of  lotus  flowers,  and  fine  lacquer 
wrought  in  arabesque  and  high-relief.  We  walk  through 
with  shoes  off,  on  the  matted  floors,  in  amazement.  The 
buildings  are  all  of  wood,  a  species  of  cedar  called  crypto- 
meria.  An  immense  unfinished  Buddhist  temple  close  by 
was  reared  (its  mighty  timbers)  by  ropes  of  hair  made  of 
offerings  left  by  the  pilgrims.  The  names  of  contributors 
are  placarded  at  the  gate-way.  The  original  temple  was 
burned  down  some  years  ago,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  this  huge 

*  Jyeyasu  was  the  founder  of  the  Shoijim  dynasty. 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  589 

structure  is  ever  finished.  The  Buddhists  always  wash  their 
hands  in  a  stone  lavatory  before  prayer.  These  monoliths, 
or  water-troughs,  are  cut  out  of  a  single  stone,  a  fine  spec- 
imen of  which  is  to  be  observed  here.  I  have  seen  no  new 
shrines,  and  but  few  temples  building ;  the  old  ones  are  go- 
ing to  decay,  and  many  others  are  offered  for  rent,  which 
shows  the  Buddhists  are  on  the  decline  in  Japan. 

The  immense  forests  of  cryptomeria  on  the  hills  beyond 
Shiba  are  beautiful  indeed.  Three  or  four  miles  distant, 
in  another  district  called  Asaksa,  we  visited  probably  the 
most  celebrated  temple  in  Japan ;  it  was  the  temple  of  Kin 
Riu  Zan  (Kwannon  Sama),  in  which  is  deposited  a  solid 
gold  image  of  the  goddess.  The  approach  to  the  temple- 
grounds  is  along  a  paved  court  lined  with  gay  shops, 
through  a  gate-hall,  on  either  side  of  which  stand  colossal 
red  wooden  gods  (tutelary  guardians) — Ni-O  (two  kings) — 
one  to  welcome  those  who  repent  and  lead  a  new  life,  the 
other  to  bless  the  newborn  infant  destined  to  become  a  good 
man.  On  one  of  these  huge  images  were  hanging  straw 
shoes  as  offerings;  while  the  other's  monstrous  corporosity 
was  literally  covered  with  paper  prayers,  first  chewed  into 
soft  wads  and  stuck  by  throwing  hard.  If  the  prayer  sticks, 
it  is  all  right ;  if  not,  it  will  not  be  answered.  There  was  the 
usual  five-story  pagoda  (painted  red),  and  an  octagon  build- 
ing containing  hundreds  of  idols  and  representations  of  the 
goddess  Kwannon,  in  answer  to  prayer.  Near  by  is  a  wax  tab- 
leau of  life-size  figures,  surpassing  even  Madame  Tusseaud's 
exhibition  in  London.  Here  are  tame  pigeons  (sacred),  tea 
booths  and  shops,  a  theater,  circus,  archery  galleries,  with  ev- 
ery kind  of  exhibition  for  amusement.  There  is  also  a  native 
artist  (picture-gallery)  and  a  god  for  every  thing  at  Asaksa ; 
the  god  for  the  colic  is  a  mere  fragment — he  is  nearly  rubbed 
away.  His  brow  and  face  have  suffered  much,  but  his  dia- 
phragm is  a  magnificent  ruin.  This  divinity  is  supposed  to 


590 


A  round  the  World  tn  1884. 


PICTURE   OF  A  PLEASURE  PARTY,  AFTER  HAVING  SEEN   THE  COLIC 
GOD— FROM  A  PHOTOGRAPH  TAKEN  AT  THE  TEMPLE. 

have  the  power  of  healing  the  colic.  The  sufferer  rubs 
his  hand  first  over  that  part  of  the  god  that  corresponds  to 
the  diseased  organ  and  then  rubs  himself  in  the  same  place. 
The  thunder  and  lightning  gods  seen  at  another  temple  were 
immense  wooden  images  (painted  red),  ten  to  fifteen  feet 
high.  They  struck  me  with  amazement.  There  are  about 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama. 


591 


fourteen  thousand  gods  in  all.  The  gods  of  health,  wealth,* 
fame,  strength,  muscle,  the  widow  and  orphan,  are  among 
the  most  popular  in  J"^~~.  But  when  a  fellow  gets  into 
purgatory  here,  as  am>a,^  the  Buddhists  and  Tauists  of 
China,  it  sometimes  requires  two  or  three  lifts  by  the  priest 
to  get  him  out.  A  Buddhist  hell  is  a  perfect  bonanza. 

Among  other  temples  in  Tokio  which  I  cannot  describe 
are  those  of  Hachiman  (god  of  war)  and  Five  Hundred 
Sages  (disciples  of  Buddha). 


•'  ,, 


WILL  TAKE  A  SMOKE. 

Tokio  is  a  city  of  canals  and  bridges.  It  has  one  large 
boulevard,  terminating  at  Shimbashi.  On  this  thoroughfare, 
ninety  feet  wide,  are  many  fine  two  and  three  story  houses  of 
mixed  European  and  Japanese  architecture.  A  few  streets 
are  paved.  I  saw  a  street  railroad  working  horses  which  re- 
sembled Bullet  in  the  "  Georgia  Scenes."  Their  shadows  were 
enough  to  frighten  them.  Some  of  the  streets  once  had  bar- 
ricades closed  up  by  gates  at  each  end.  When  the  police 
wnnted  to  avrpst  a  thief  or  suppress  a  riot,  they  ran  to  these 

*This  god  is  worshiped  here  as  much  as  he  is  in  America. 


592  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

gates  and  closed  them  up,  and  got  him.  If  it  was  a  fight, 
the  combatants  were  furnished  with  bamboo-poles,  while 
the  officers  climbed  up  on  the  house-tops  to  see  the  struggle. 
The  blacksmith  sits  on  the  ground  and  hammers  on  his  anvil. 
Nearly  all  work  in  the  way  of  manufactures  is  done  in  a  sit- 
ting posture.  The  tailor  wriggles  his  cloth  over  his  needle; 
the  carpenter  draws  his  plane  toward  him;  the  Japanese 
mounts  his  horse  on  the  right  side,  instead  of  the  left  side 
doing  (like  the  Chinese)  many  things  opposite  to  us. 

Doctors  are  paid  a  salary  by  the  Government,  and  are  not 
required  to  have  a  diploma.  Saki  is  kept  in  kegs  piled  up 
in  front  of  shops  and  some  temples.  It  is  used  at  festivals 
in  the  little  gardens  of  the  wealthy,  which  are  found  in  the 
rear  of  most  Japanese  houses.  During  evenings,  men  and 
even  ladies  use  the  little  pipe — two  whiffs — both  at  home  and 
at  the  theaters.  Saki  (rice-liquor)  is  liable  to  prostrate  the 
average  citizen  by  intemperate  indulgence,  but  excessive 
drinking  is  a  rare  exception. 

Foreign  goods  are  as  great  a  curiosity  in  Tokio  as  Jap- 
anese goods  are  in  America. 

The  theaters  are  a  curiosity.  The  acting  seems  mostly 
controversial.  If  it  is  a  comedy,  farce,  or  burlesque,  usually 
two  men  are  most  prominent  on  the  stage.  In  acrobatic 
and  gymnastic  feats,  which  are  very  wonderful,  a  number 
are  sometimes  employed.  The  funniest  sight  is  when  a 
change  of  scene  is  wanted  to  see  the  main  stage  change  the 
position  of  the  actors  from  front  to  rear,  or  rear  to  front, 
on  rollers.  It  resembles  a  turn-table.  The  tongues  on 
either  side  are  stationary.  The  pit,  in  which  the  people 
sit  on  mats  upon  the  ground,  looks  like  a  chess-board,  each 
square  seating  four  people.  I  saw  some  benches,  and  up  in 
the  gallery  were  private  boxes  for  the  aristocracy.  Boys 
with  fruits  and  candies  walk  along  on  planks,  crying  their 
wares.  Everybody  smokes  and  eats  ground  pease  during 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  593 

the  performance.     I  saw  one  fellow  step  up  and  light  his 
pipe  at  the  footlights.     Admission  five  to  twenty  cents. 

When  a  festival  in  honor  of  a  god  or  hero  is  given  the 
people  go  to  the  temple.  All  celebrations  are  fixed  through- 
out the  year  by  law  or  custom.  The  most  novel  sight  I 
saw  was  a  bamboo  pole  erected  at  many  houses.  During  the 
5th  of  May  just  passed  there  was  a  fish  tied  on  the  end  of  every 
one  of  them,  showing  a  boy  had  been  born  there  during  the 
year.  The  occasion  is  one  of  presenting  gifts  of  clothing, 
toys,  toy  horses,  coats  of  armor,  swords,  etc.,  the  boy  being 
the  pride  of  the  house.  Every  boy  is  remembered  by  his 
friends  and  relatives,  being  overwhelmed  with  presents. 
The  girls'  day  comes  on  the  3d  of  March.  Then,  instead 
of  the  fish  as  a  symbol,  the  doll  goes  up.  All  the  shops  are 
now  ablaze  with  dolls,  doll  toggery,  tea-sets,  lounges,  mats  to 
sit  on,  etc.  The  boys  have  the  advantage  of  the  girls ;  and 
an  anxious  mother  does  not  wait  for  the  time,  but  runs  up 
the  symbol  a  month  or  more  in  advance. 

There  are  no  bridal  parties  in  Japan.  Often  a  couple, 
engaged  by  their  parents  when  babies,  struggle  for  years  to 
secure  and  lay  aside  marriage  expenses  for  trousseau,  the 
bonzes  (priest's  fee),  and  a  feast  for  friends  in  honor  of  the 
event.  When  not  able,  the  girl  runs  away  to  the  bride- 
groom's house  and  secretes  herself.  All  the  neighbors  pur- 
sue her,  and  when  she  is  found  the  girl's  parents — mother 
first,  then  father — become  reconciled,  as  if  they  had  been 
angry.  The  betrothed  usually  marry  and  receive  many 
presents. 

The  obi,  worn  by  all  ladies  except  the  nobility,  is  a  kind 
of  girdle  and  corset  combined ;  it  is  wound  around  the  waist 
and  fastened  on  the  back,  so  as  to  produce  a  large  furbelow 
— a  cartridge-box-looking  arrangement.  If  she  is  a  widow 
and  determined  never  to  marry,  she  knots  the  obi  in  front ; 
but  I  never  saw  one  worn  that  way. 
38 


594 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


THE  WAY  I  LIKE  IT. 


The  ladies  in  Japan 
never  kiss  when  they  meet, 
nor  look  behind  to  see  if 
somebody  is  looking  at 
them.  They  always  bow. 
There  is  no  doubt  in  my* 
mind  but  this  is  the  na- 
tive land  of  "Old  Mother 
Hubbard  "  in  America.  It 
is  called  the  krimoni  in 
Japan — a  loose  overdress 
without  a  ruffle  in  it, 
and  hanging  en  neglige  to 
the  ground.  The  girdle 
imposes  the  proper  restraint  here;  but  in  America  the  old 
"mother"  is  turned  loose  like  a  young  colt  bounding  over 
the  prairies. 

I  thought  she  was  an  old  heathen!  The  pannier  origi- 
nally came  from  Persia  or  Japan,  and  was  supposed  to  be 
a  London  or  Paris  fashion.  It  is  now  discovered  that 
crinolines  were  worn  in  Hesiod's  time,  eight  hundred  years 
before  Christ.  He  advises  young  Greek  men  not  to  be  led 
astray  by  women's  clothes  "  puffed  out  behind."  Two  hun- 
dred years  earlier  than  this  period,  who  can  tell  but  Helen, 
when  she  fled  with  Paris  to  Troy,  did  not  wear  a  crinoline? 
There  is  not  much  new  under  the  sun. 

Our  visit  to  the  Ladies'  Bazar  at  the  Club  House,  on  our 
arrival  in  the  city  has  left  the  most  agreeable  impressions 
upon  our  mind.  It  shows  what  a  progressive  people  the 
Japanese  are.  Here  was  a  magnificent  exhibition  of  Jap- 
anese art  and  manufactures,  arranged  after  the  American 
fairs,  to  raise  funds  to  build  a  charity  hospital  for  the  poor. 
The  leading  families  of  the  nobility  led  in  the  movement. 
It  was  a  grand  success.  I  saw  beautiful  Japanese  girls 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  595 

dressed  in  American  costumes,  speaking  English  at  their 
several  booths.*  They  were  quite  up  to  the  American  girls 
in  all  the  arts  of  coquetry  and  persuasion  necessary  to  drive 
a  trade.  A  large  number  of  English  people  came  over  from 
Tokio  to  witness  the  first  effort  of  this  kind  ever  made  in 
Japan.  We  returned  to  the  hotel  bankrupted. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  visits  we  enjoyed  was  to  the 
Maple  House,  on  the  suburbs  of  Tokio.  The  house,  built 
entirely  of  maple,  was  the  home  of  a  wealthy  family.  We 
were  welcomed  by  two  pretty  little  girls,  who  cried  out, 
'Ohayo!"  Then  we  shouted,  "Arigato!"  "Welcome," 
"Thank  you."  Our  guides  remarked,  "Be  seated,  gentle- 
men ;  "for  we  had  been  joined  by  an  English  party  at  the  hotel. 
There  were  cushions  for  six  all  in  a  row.  Doubling  up  in 
a  heap,  we  squatted  upon  the  floor.  There  was  no  furni- 
ture of  any  description — nothing  except  the  mats  upon  the 
matted  floor.  As  soon  as  the  girls  appeared,  with  lacquer 
trays  of  tea,  candies,  cakes,  etc.,  they  set  them  aside,  as  is 
usual,  bowing  three  times,  their  heads  touching  the  floor. 
When  we  attempted  to  rise  I  found  my  cross-legged  ex- 
tremities in  inextricable  confusion.  I  couldn't  rise.  Some 
of  the  boys  had  rolled  over  on  their  sides  and  scrambled  up. 
It  looked  as  if  it  would  take  both  guides  to  extricate  me 
from  my  perilous  position.  I  felt  like  a  ruined  communi- 
ty. We  went  up  maple  steps  into  a  smoking-room,  and  de- 
scending exchanged  our  sandals  at  the  door  for  clogs  to  take 
a  pleasure  walk  with  the  family  in  the  garden.  I  was  de- 
lighted. Securing  my  feet  firmly  by  the  cords  that  come 
up  between  the  big  and  second  toes,  I  was  ready  to  roam 
abroad.  But  the  first  thing  I  discovered  were  my  heels. 
The  boys  roared,  yet  it  was  etiquette,  you  know.  Arriving^ 
at  last  on  the  spot  where  the  "  Empress  once  sat,"  the  guides 
said,  we  all  took  a  seat,  looking  out  on  the  deep  blue  sea. 
I  had  dreaded  my  return  to  the  maple  chateau.  I  con- 

*  Parisian  dresses  are  imported  by  the  belles  of  Yedo,  while  fashionable 
European  dances  and  riding-schools  are  being  introduced. 


596  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

eluded  to.  make  no  more  ventures  on  those  uncertain  shoes, 
so  I  gathered  up  my  clogs  in  my  hands,  walking  back  to 
the  door.  Not  etiquette,  you  know !  They  were  just  as  un- 
certain as  a  Georgia  mule.  Bowing  our  "Say  O  naros" 
("since  it  must  be  so"),  I  unthinkingly  threw  a  kiss  at  the 
pretty  little  miss,  who  came  near  fainting  at  the  maple  door. 
But  when  we  departed,  "  since  it  must  be  so/'  she  smiled  very 
sweetly,  and  I  bowed  very  low. 

I  let  my  horse  out  on  his  metal  coming  home.  When  we 
reached  the  native  hotel  I  heard  those  pretty  girls  at  the 
Bazar  were  Vassar  girls.  Then  O  how  sorry  to  see  what 
I  had  missed,  should  we  ever  have  married ;  for  I  know  those 
Vassar  girls  had  learned  to  kiss. 

I  wish  I  could  give  a  description  of  our  visit  to  Nikko, 
ninety  miles  distant  in  the  north  of  Japan.  We  made  this 
memorable  journey  in  two  days,  by  jinrikishas,  two  men  to 
each  carriage.  Every  five  miles  the  men  stopped  for  chow- 
chow,  rice,  and  tea;  sometimes  a  pair  of  new  straw  shoes. 
The  same  men  pulled  us  through  (we  occasionally  walking 
up  mountains)  forty-five  miles  each  day.  They  averaged 
five  miles  an  hour,  with  most  extraordinary  endurance.  I 
would  tell  you  of  the  grandest  mountain  views ;  of  Nikko, 
a  city  of  temples  and  magnificent  tombs;  of  a  pedestrian 
tour  still  farther  north,  above  precipices,  over  bridges  and 
deep  ravines  to  the  summit  of  a  mountain  five  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea.  On  the  way  we  saw  a  cascade  leaping  over 
a  mountain  and  lost  in  spray  thousands  of  feet  below.  We 
climbed  up  many  a  dizzy  height  and  cliff.  At  every  step 
were  wonders  of  surprising  beauty,  the  deepest  gorges  and 
most  weird  scenery  I  had  ever  beheld.  Above  the  clouds 
at  last  we  behold  the  falls  of  Kegon-no-taki,  three  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  sheer  descent — a  mile  above  the  charming 
lake  of  Chiuzenji,  eight  miles  long  and  three  miles  wide. 
High  over  our  heads  rose  in  awful  sublimity  the  volcano  of 


From  Nagasaki  to  Yokohama.  597 

Shirane,  nine  thousand  feet.     A  more  lovely  picture  had 
never  before  enraptured  our  vision. 

How  we  enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  the  native  inns,  vil- 
lages, and  people,  the  quaint  sights  and  curious  things  seen 
— of  men  and  women  bathing  together;  of  nude  men  walking 
home  through  the  village  streets ;  of  rice-mills  run  by  water; 
Fa  wing  lumber  by  hand;  of  different  modes  of  traveling; 


THE   CANGO— MOUNTAIN   TRAVEL. 

of  the  celebration  and  military  encampment  at  Nikko;  of 
its  wonderful  shrines,  thousands  of  strange  gods,  images, 
lacquer,  mosaic  painting,  and  curious  bronze  bells,  from. 
Corea;  lofty  flights  of  stone  steps  up  to  temples  thousands 
of  feet  high;  of  earthquakes  that  have  shaken  their  gods 
up;  of  the  gorgeous  tombs,  bronze  storks,  and  pebbled 
courts  of  lyeyasu  and  lyemitsu,  the  Shogun  princes;  of 
reeling  silk,  growing  cocoons,  in  villages;  of  curious  cus- 
toms; a  thousand  things  or  more — enough  for  a  book. 
Along  the  road  I  saw  a  contrivance  for  hot  baths.  A  tall 
kettle  is  half  filled  with  water.  You  get  in,  and  presently 
.a  smoke  begins  to  ascend  all  around  you.  A  man  ignorant 


598  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  the  motive  would  escape  in  mad  fright  from  the  threat- 
ening caldron.  But  as  soon  as  the  water  is  warm  enough 
the  tire  is  removed. 

We  returned  to  Yokohama,  after  an  absence  of  a  week, 
to  find  our  steamer,  the  "City  of  Pekin/'  up  from  Hong 
Kong,  nearly  ready  for  her  long  stretch  across  the  Pacific. 
Going  to  the  booking  office  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steam-ship 
Company,  I  fcund  a  large  number  of  first-class  passengers 
registered  for  the  "City  of  Pekin."  There  were  many 
English  people  from  Australia  and  China;  two  war  cor- 
respondents (French)  from  Saigon,  a  half  dozen  G.  T.'s 
(globe-trotters),  a  large  number  of  Japanese  intermediate, 
about  eight  hundred  deck  (Chinese),  and  several  American 
merchants  bound  for  San  Francisco,  New  York,  and  Eu- 
rope. Mr.  Alex.  C.  showed  us  every  courtesy  worthy  of  a 
polite  and  obliging  general  passenger  agent.  By  his  uni- 
form kindness  he  won  our  highest  encomiums,  which  I  am 
sure  he  fully  merited,  believing  the  company  has  not  a  more 
faithful  and  efficient  officer  on  this  side  of  the  Pacific. 


CHAPTER    LVII. 

LEAVING  YOKOHAMA,  JAPAN,  FOR  SAN  FRANCISCO — 
HOMEWARD  BOUND — THE  "CiTY  OF  PEKIN" — INCI- 
DENTS OF  THE  VOYAGE,  ETC. 

ON  the  18th  of  June,  promptly  at  the  hour  advertised,  the 
great  steam-ship  "  City  of  Pekin  "  steamed  out  of  the  har- 
bor of  Yokohama,  Japan,  on  the  broad  Pacific,  homeward 
bound.  We  watched  the  city,  then  the  coast-line,  with  its 
villages  and  beautiful  mountains,  fade  away  on  a  glorious 
view.  Still  visible  for  an  hour  longer  was  Fuji-Yama,  lift- 
ing its  imperial  crown,  mantled  with  snow,  that  stood  alone 
in  majestic  grandeur. 

For  many  days  and  nights  we  sail  around  on  the  great 


Incidents  of  the  Homeward  Voyage.  o99 


circle,  following  up  the  Icuro  siwo,  or  black  gulf-current, 
that  shoots  its  warm  waters  from  the  equator  north  toward 
the  Aleutian  Islands.  From  here  this  gulf-stream  flows 
eastward,  then  southward,  warming  up  the  shores  of  the 
frozen  regions  north,  then  past  Oregon,  and  is  lost  in  the  Polar 
Sea.  We  have  described  to  you  already  the  gulf-stream  of 
the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  kuro  siivo  is  the  gulf-stream  of 
the  Pacific. 

At  the  end  of  five  or  six  days'  sailing  we  start  across  the 
Pacific  toward  the  American  shores.  Three  times  a  day 
the  officer  of  the  deck  notifies  the  captain  of  "Eight  bells, 
sir!" — 8  A.M.,  12  M.,  and  4  P.M.,  hours  at  which  the  longi- 
tude and  latitude  are  ascertained  by  the  ship's  chronometers. 
Sailing  east  as  we  have  traveled  from  Greenwich,  England, 
the  ship's  time  has  been  altered  every  day  to  correspond 
with  the  true  time  determined  at  eight  bells  every  morning. 
On  the  sixth  day  we  crossed  the  meridian,  the  one  hundred 
and  eightieth  degree,  changing  now  from  east  to  west  longi- 
tude. A  few  hours  ago  it  was  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
nine  east  of  Greenwich ;  now  it  is  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
nine  west.  One  degree,  representing  four  minutes  of  time, 
multiplied  by  three  hundred  and  sixty,  a  whole  circle,  and 
divided  by  sixty  minutes  an  hour,  will  throw  the  time  into 
twenty-four  hours  we  would  gain  by  a  voyage  around  the 
world  if  our  watch  was  set  at  Greenwich  and  never  changed 
in  making  the  voyage.  Going  east  then  we  would  gain 
exactly  t\yenty-four  hours,  or  west  would  lose  that  time. 
Coming  east  our  clock  is  put  forward  every  day  about  fif- 
teen minutes,  and  the  calendar  is  made  to  correspond  by 
adding  a  day.  Coming  west  a  day  is  dropped  to  avoid  con- 
fusion, the  clock  being  set  back  fifteen  minutes.  Thus  if 
the  "City  of  Pekin"  were  going  west  and  cross  the  meridian 
on  Monday  the  next  day  would  be  Monday  also. 

Let  us  now  take  a  peep  at  our  mammoth  ship,  one  of  the 


MO  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

great  screw-propellers  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steam-ship  Com- 
pany— a  perfect  floating  palace.  She  is  broad  and  deep 
like  the  ocean,  and  very  long,  with  powerful  engines  to 
shoot  us  across.  She  carries  over  a  thousand  tons  of  coal, 
and  will  average  fifteen  to  seventeen  miles  an  hour.  She  is 
built  of  iron,  by  John  Roach  &  Co.  (American),  I  believe 


THE  "CITY  OF  PEKIN"  CROSSING  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 

nearly  five  thousand  tons  burden.  If  she  was  a  mind  to,  the 
"  City  of  Pekin"  could  carry  off  as  large  a  town  as  Talbotton, 
with  its  twelve  hundred  inhabitants,  and  our  seven  miles  of 
railroad  and  engine  for  ballast.  We  have  nearly  one  thou- 
sand people  on  board,  forty-five  thousand  chests  of  tea,  and 
any  amount  of  other  merchandise.  Six  times  around  her 
decks  is  about  a  mile.  Every  day  the  English  boys  from 
Australia,  the  finest  athletes  in  the  world,  play  base-ball; 
besides,  we  can  play  shuffle-board,  rings  and  quoits,  leap- 
frog, and  promenade  at  the  same  time.  We  are  a  large  com- 
munity !  We  have  the  best  captain  in  the  world,  first,  sec- 
ond, third  officers,  purser,  chief  engineer  and  several  as- 
sistants, a  doctor,  four  quartermasters,  freight  clerks  and 


Incidents  of  the  Homeward  Voyage.  601 


stewards.  We  have  a  barber-shop,  carpenters,  ice-house, 
apothecary-shop,  butcher-pens,  bakery,  laundry,  pens  of  fat 
turkeys,  droves  of  cattle,  sheep,  pigs,  etc. — enough  for  a 
large  village.  There  is  a  car-load  of  flour,  canned  goods, 
and  pickled  meats ;  vegetables  and  fruits,  game  and  fish  on 
ice;  strawberries  and  cream  for  dinner;  all  kinds  of  nuts, 
pastries  and  luxuries  of  every  kind.  The  "Pekin"  com- 
bines the  elegant  hotel,  the  sumptuous  grocery,  and  inex- 
haustible store-houses  of  Chicago.  We  have  every  thing 
except  a  telegraph  wire  and  daily  newspaper.  Our  expenses 
are  enormous,  requiring  fifty  to  sixty  thousand  dollars  for 
a  round  trip  voyage  to  Hong  Kong  and  back.  Besides  the 
Government  subsidy  of  forty-six  thousand  dollars  for  every 
voyage  for  carrying  the  United  States  mails,  the  chief 
source  of  income  is  from  steerage  passengers.  Our  officers 
are  American,  but  the  crew  is  Chinese,  over  one  hundred 
persons  in  all.  We  have  the  usual  fire-alarm  drill,  man- 
ning of  boats,  etc.  The  bread  and  water  are  kept  in  the 
ship's  boats  for  the  iast  hope.  Our  captain,  G.  G.  Berry, 
was  nearly  born  on  the  billows  of  the  ocean,  "fledged  in  the 
deep."  He  is  a  native  of  St.  Andrews,  New  Brunswick,  on 
the  line  of  Maine ;  is  fifty-six  years  of  age,  and  has  been  forty 
years  at  sea.  He  was  for  many  years  commander  of  ships 
for  the  good  old  house  of  A.  A.  Low  &  Bro.,  New  York, 
on  which  he  doubled  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  thirty-three 
times.  "Captain,  have  you  ever  been  shipwrecked?"  I  in- 
quired one  day,  lounging  in  his  elegant  state-room.  "O 
yes,  four  times ;  once  in  the  China  Sea  and  three  times  in 
the  Atlantic." 

Capt.  Berry  has  a  very  accurate  knowledge  of  history 
and  a  decidedly  literary  turn.  One  day,  sitting  at  dinner, 
somebody  remarked  the  Irish  had  once  whipped  the  Scotch. 
"  Not  so,"  retorted  a  Scotch  gentleman  on  his  left ;  "  it  is 
false ;  it  is  not  history ! "  The  question  was  at  once  sub- 


602  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

mitted  to  Capt.  Berry  as  referee.  "  Yes,"  replied  the  noble 
commander,  "  and  held  Scotland  four  hundred  years  after 
subjugating  it." 

About  the  twelfth  day  we  passed  through  fields  of  jelly-fish 
and*  porpoises,  and  a  large  number  of  whales  at  a  distance 
j  were  sending  up  jets  of  water  as  they  occasionally  came  up 
to  breathe,  resembling  fountains  playing  on  the  placid 
bosom  of  the  ocean.  We  are  sailing  over  water  five  miles 
dee'p.  The  varying  shades  of  reflected  light  under  chang- 
ing skies  and  shifting  clouds,  the  variety  of  exquisite  color- 
ings and  radiant  hues,  whose  heightened  beauty  has  been 
brought  into  expression  by  agitation  of  the  waves,  afford  an 
endless  study.  I  have  heard  it  said  the  sea  is  blue  when 
the  water  is  deep  and  green  when  (shallow ;  but  these  hues 
must  vary  under  the  changing  skies.  Their  beauty  is  in- 
describable. Seeing  the  sun  rise  and  set  at  sea  is  too  gor- 
geous for  any  thing.  1  hope  the  Japanese  student  who  woke 
up  the  ship  by  a  recitation  of  spring  poetry  this  morning 
will  be  spared  such  a  calamity. 

A  slight  bearing  to  the  southward  would  take  us  past  the 
Sandwich*  Islands,  where  our  ship  formerly  stopped.  Here 
we  would  behold  the  most  terrific  grandeur  of  an  active 
volcano  in  the  world — Kilauea. 

On  the  fifteenth  day  the  bulletin  of  the  ship  reported 
four  thousand  five  hundred  miles  run.  Our  long,  eventful 
voyage,  full  of  pleasure  and  interest,  was  drawing  to  a  close. 

The  captain  gave  a  grand  Fourth  of  July  dinner,  with 
plenty  of  wine,  in  honor  of  American  independence.  There 
was  to  have  been  an  oration,  but  the  orator's  eye  was  too 
much  inflamed  for  the  declaration.  Considerable  hilarity  in 
the  social  hall  the  night  previous  had  blasted  his  highest 
ambition. 

Dan  and  Jack  had  kept  up  an  animated  discussion 
whether  the  world  was  round  or  not.  Dan  said  it  looked 


NATIVES    OF    HAWAII    LEAPING    INTO    THE   SEA. 
Will  leap  one  hundred  feet  or  more  for  ten  cents. 


Incidents  of  the  Homeward  Voyage.  603 

very  flat  about  Shanghai  to  him.  Jack  declared  it  as  round 
as  an  apple.  He  had  traveled  east  out  the  front  door  of  his 
house  several  months  toward  sunrise,  and  here  he  was  re- 
turning by  the  back  door,  going  east  all  the  time. 

It  was  the  last  night.  Some  glowing  tributes  to  the  great- 
ness of  our  countries  must  be  paid;  the  Queen's  health 
drank ;  the  President  of  the  proudest  republic  on  earth,  etc., 
remembered.  England  remarked:  "We  girdle  the  world 
with  our  ships."  America  said :  "  We  feed  it  with  our  com- 
merce, and  enrich  it  with  our  gold  and  silver."  A  Russian 
bear  was  sitting  in  the  corner  doing  a  lot  of  thinking.  Aus- 
tralia observes:  "We  have  the  broadest  fields  of  wheat, 
prairies  covered  with  sheep,  gold  and  silver,  fruits  ot  every 
clime,  and  the  richest  land  under  the  sun."  A  Californian 
yelled  out:  "You  have  not  got  a  pumpkin  that  weighs  four 
hundred  pounds!"  "O  hush!  we  have  trees  five  hundred 
feet  high."  "That's  nothing,"  replied  the  Californian; 
"  your  city  of  Melbourne  could  dance  a  cotillon  on  one  of 
our  stumps,  and  Adelaide  could  ride  through  the  hollow  of 
another  on  horseback,  four  abreast,  and  file  out  at  a  knot. 
Why,  it  takes  two  men  to  see  to  the  top  of  one  of  our  trees! " 
continued  the  Californian.  "  You  have  no  'possums ! " 
"Yes,  we  have."  "Kangaroos?"  "Don't  want  them." 
"  The  colored  ladyf  "  "  Plenty  of  them."  "Well,  we  have 
a  curious  animal  in  Australia  called  the  laughing  jackass; 
have  you  got  them  ?  "  "  Yes,  thousands  of  them !  "  roared 
the  American. 

A  few  things  worth  knowing : 

That  volcanoes  are  found  around  the  whole  world. 

That  the  world  is  burning  up  internally. 

That  the  Aztecs  of  Mexico  and  Incas  of  Peru  were  Bud- 
dhists, and  must  have  crossed  Behring's  Strait  or  the  Pacific. 

That  there  are  lofty  mountains  and  trade-winds  about 
the  equator  that  temper  the  heat. 


604  Around  the  World  in  1884. 


That  the  on ly  practicable  railroad  route  to  China  is  from 
Calcutta  through  Burmah. 

•  That  Australia  and  Africa  are  the  only  two  countries  of 
which  the  black  man  is  a  native. 

That  Australia  has  trees  that  shed  their  bark  instead  of 
leaves. 

That  their  most  gorgeous  flowers  have  no  fragrance. 

That  their  most  beautiful  birds  do  not  sing. 

That  orange  culture  extends  up  the  coast  of  California 
almost  to  Oregon. 

That  there  are  thirty-two  different  species  of  maple  in 
Japan. 

That  Japanese  cockerels  have  tails  ten  feet  long. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  at  breakfast  Capt,  Berry  re- 
marked that  we  had  been  oft  the  coast  of  Oregon  all  night, 
and  at  noon  we  should  see  land.  Everybody  began  to  strain 
his  eyes  for  that  Lone  mountain  that  has  so  often  cheered 
the  sailor's  heart  with  the  first  sight  of  land:  first  but  a 
speck  on  the  horizon,  then  broadens  and  deepens  until  we 
behold  the  grandest  stretch  of  coast-line.  The  Australians 
said  the  mountains  reminded  them  of  their  country — bleak 
to  their  very  summits,  enveloped  in  ever-changing  hues.  It 
was  California. 

CHAPTER  LVIII. 

FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  YOSEMITE — THEN  HOME. 
TN  an  hour  the  pilot-boat  appeared,  coming  to  meet  us. 
JL  Numerous  sail  and  craft  were  now  visible.  Presently 
the  "  Pekin  "  glides  through  the  Golden  Gate  into  the  beau- 
tiful harbor.  Now  we  behold  the  beauty  of  Alcatraz,  Goat, 
and  Angel  islands.  We  see  the  doctor  coming.  The  pesky 
custom-house  officers  are  already  here.  But  our  patience  is 
exhausted  waiting  six  mortal  hours  for  the  medical  staff. 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite.  605 


The  doctor  arrives  at  last.  He  might  be  mistaken  for  the 
Czar  of  Russia.  He  brings  up  a  lot  of  boxes,  looking  like 
dynamite.  We  are  to  be  fumigated,  Chinese  and  all,  not- 
withstanding our  officer  reported  a  clean  bill  of  health.  A 
tug  takes  us  to  shore.  At  last,  our  native  land !  Those 
odors  were  enough  to  have  made  a  Chinaman  blow  his  nose 
off.  Omnibus  for  the  Palace  Hotel.  In  a  few  minutes,  up 
stately  streets,  above  which  rose  the  most  magnificent  build- 
ings, we  were  alighting  under  a  large  glass  court,  full  of 
flowers  and  statuary,  in  the  center  of  the  largest  hotel  in  the 
world.  It  is  the  world-renowned  Palace,  nearly  ten  stories 
hii>-h,  brick  and  marble;  over  eight  hundred  rooms,  with 
miles  of  arcades,  halls,  galleries,  warm  and  cold  baths, 
grand  saloons,  electric  bells,  etc. 

Sun  Francisco  is  a  splendid  city,  only  thirty-five  years 
old,  and  boasts  of  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
eleven  hundred  streets,  alleys,  etc.,  thirty  thousand  build- 
ings, one  hundred  and  thirteen  churches,  forty-nine  hotels, 
one  hundred  and  sixty-eight  newspapers,  high  schools,  col- 
leges, clubs,  reading-rooms,  libraries,  parks,  and  aquariums, 
with  the  best  fire  department  on  the  continent.  Her  fine 
cable  roads  fill  every  stranger  with  astonishment.  Cars  fly- 
ing through  the  streets  without  horses  or  steam.  The  Cliff 
House,  Woodward  Gardens,  Mint,  and  Stock  Exchange, 
China  Town,  Seal  Rocks,  and  Telegraph  Hill,  are  among  its 
noted  attractions.  A  grand  view  of  the  ocean  may  be  en- 
joyed from  Telegraph  Hill.  These  wonderful  street-cars 
are  propelled  by  powerful  engines  stationed  at  the  terminus 
that  work  cable  ropes  running  under  the  ground  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  track.  The  cars  are  moved  by  a  grip  that  holds 
them  to  the  cable.  Telegraph  Hill  is  as  steep  as  Vesuvius. 
When  one  car  goes  up  it  pulls  the  other  down. 

San  Francisco  is  a  very  beautiful  but  hilly  city.  It  boasts 
of  its  palaces,  banks,  and  attractive  suburbs.  In  Oakland, 


606  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

across  the  bay  are  many  splendid  homes  and  charming 
gardens.  Mr.  S.  G.  Murphy,  formerly  of  Columbus, 
Ga.,  and  cashier  of  the  Pacific  Bank,  is  building  a  pa- 
latial residence  in  this  city.  He  married  the  charming 
daughter  of  Col.  George  P.  Swift,  of  our  beautiful  Georgia 
manufacturing  metropolis.  Hon.  Charlie  Swift,  Col.  Mur- 
phy's brother-in-law,  is  enjoying  a  large  and  lucrative  law 
practice  in  San  Francisco.  I  also  met  Mr.  Jones,  of  Colum- 
bus. Judge  Walter  Levy  and  other  prominent  Georgians 
are  well  known  in  California. 

Sometimes  an  earthquake  is  felt  here,  which  pours  the 
people  out  on  the  streets  at  the  dead  hour  of  midnight.  But 
except  stiff  winds  the  climate  is  delightful  winter  and  sum- 
mer, the  rainy  season  setting  in  about  October. 

I  wanted  to  pay  my  respects  to  Messrs.  Williams,  Dimond 
&  Co.,  the  general  agents  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steam-ship  Com- 
pany, who  had  shown  me  so  much  kindness.  A  few  min- 
utes before  my  departure  I  had  met  Capt.  Berry  near  the 
Pacific  Bank  for  the  last  time. 

We  were  joined  at  the  Palace  Hotel  by  Messrs.  J.  J. 
Hardy  and  Alfred  B.  Black,  two  of  our  fellow-passengers 
on  the  "  Pekin,"  from  Adelaide,  South  Australia,  for  an  ex- 
cursion down  the  Southern  Pacific  road  to  the  big  trees  and 
Yosemite  Valley.  AVe  had  met  Capt.  T.  D.  McKay,  gen- 
eral agent  of  the  great  Burlington  route,  and  Col.  P.  G. 
Beam,  who  had  very  kindly  arranged  all  the  details,  tick- 
ets, etc.,  for  this  most  interesting  and  wonderful  jaunt  of 
rambling  and  sight-seeing  among  the  snowy  Sierras.  We 
would  advise  all  travelers  to  procure  their  tickets  East  and 
to  the  Yosemite  from  Messrs.  McKay  and  Beam,  who  will 
spare  no  effort  for  their  pleasure  or  accommodation.  Cross- 
ing to  Oakland  in  the  ferry-boat  at  the  foot  of  Market 
street,  we  were  soon  whirling  away  past  lovely  homes  and 
gardens,  leaving  San  Francisco,  like  a  speck  among  its  hills, 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite.  607 

in  the  fading  hours  of  evening.  At  ten  o'clock  Saturday 
night  we  stopped  at  Merced,  one  hundred  and  forty-five 
miles  from  San  Francisco  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 
Remaining  over  the  Sabbath,  in  the  early  morning  we  en- 
joyed a  grand  view  from  our  hotel  window  of  the  San 
Joaquin  (San  Wa-keen)  Valley,  a  limitless  wheat-field  that 
stretched  away  twenty  to  thirty  miles,  as  level  as  a  table, 
to  the  foot-hills  of  the  snow-crowned  Sierra  Nevadas. 
"We  attended  the  Southern  Methodist  Episcopal  Church 
in  the  morning,  Mr.  Burgess  pastor;  heard  a  street 
preacher  on  the  way;  saw  the  eucalyptus  or  fever  tree 
(Australian),  and  enjoyed  a  drive  with  Mr.  Charlie  Huff- 
man over  his  fields  of  eight  thousand  acres  in  golden  wheat 
and  barley.  Mr.  Huffman  is  a  Louisianian,  a  gentleman  of 
prominence  and  great  wealth,  who  settled  here  before  the 
Southern  Pacific  Kailroad  was  built.  He  bought  these 
lands  very  cheap ;  now  they  are  worth  from  thirty  to  fifty 
dollars  per  acre.  We  saw  fields  of  wheat  that  would  aver- 
age fifty  bushels  per  acre ;  a  hundred  acres  volunteer  wheat 
estimated  at  twenty.  Mr.  Huffman  has  one  hundred  very 
fine  mules  from  Kentucky  and  Missouri,  with  which  he  first 
turns  the  land  in  fallow,  then  drills  in  three  pecks  Australian 
seed-wheat  per  acre  in  October  and  November,  as  soon  as  the 
winter  rains  set  in.  •  Some  of  the  lands  are  sandy,  others 
alluvial,  loamy  soils — very  rich.  His  combined  reaper  and 
thresher  cost  five  thousand  dollars,  and  was  made  at  Stock- 
ton. He  works  thirty  mules,  fifteen  on  either  side  of  a  long 
lever,  drawing  the  machine  in  front  of  them.  A  man  sits  on  a 
platform  between  two  large  flange- wheels,  guiding  the  ma- 
chine. The  grain  is  cut,  threshed,  fanned,  bagged,  and  thrown 
off  by  a  man  as  the  machine  moves  along.  The  wheat  will 
stand  in  the  field  without  injtfry  until  October.  Mr.  HufF- 
man  feeds  his  mules  on  mixed  wheat  and  barley — not  a 
grain  of  corn,  as  I  saw  none  growing  in  the  San  Joaquin 


608  Around  the  World  in  18S4. 

Valley.  He  showed  us  one  flock  of  Merino  sheep,  five  thou- 
sand head,  which  he  keeps  for  wool. 

Two  or  three  hours  travel  by  stage  Monday  morning 
carried  us  beyond  this  treeless  plain  into  ridge  lands,  where 
we  began  to  see  the  prairie  squirrel  that  burrows  in  the 
ground.  At  many  of  their  homes  or  holes  I  saw  owls  sit- 
ting. Our  driver  says  they  are  companions,  and  sleep  to- 
gether. The  moment  I  chased  one  of  these  little  gray,  red- 
dish animals  he  made  for  his  hole,  invariably  poking  his 
head  out  to  see  if  I  was  coming.  Often  near  by  the  road 
they  would  fall  back  on  their  heels,  facing  us,  as  if  on 
dress-parade.  We  saw  no  shrubs  or  trees  until  we  had  left 
the  valley  and  begun  to  ascend  the  mountains.  The  road 
up  their  rugged  sides  was  tortuous,  winding  and  rising  higher 
and  higher.  The  view  of  the  valley  and  the  Merced  River 
far  below  us  presented  a  picture  of  surpassing  beauty.  Lit- 
tle quail  in  pairs  ran  across  the  road.  Thousands  of  sheep 
were  grazing  in  the  mountains.  The  grass  on  either  side 
looked  dead,  but  it  remains  nutritious  still,  there  being  no 
rain  to  destroy  its  good  qualities. 

We  passed  Gen.  Fremont's  town — a  dilapidated  old  vil- 
lage and  post-office.  Furnace  after  furnace  was  dismantled. 
The  whole  mining  region  through  which  we  passed  seemed 
hushed  in  deathless  silence. 

At  Mariposa  I  found  Mr.  Ben  F.  Maddox,  from  Dalton, 
Ga.  Ben  had  married  a  beautiful  girl  here  and  settled 
down.  He  is  the  editor  and  proprietor  of  the  Mariposa 
Herald,  a  prosperous  weekly.  I  saw  fine  nuggets  of  gold 
and  silver  ore  for  sale,  and  galena,  in  which  silver  is  so  often 
found.  All  night  long  we  traveled  over  the  lofty  Sierras, 
covered  with  redwood,  sugar-pine,  and  cedar,  with  snow 
visible  on  the  highest  peaks.  This  is  a  region  of  the  deep- 
est solitude,  scarcely  a  habitation  to  be  found  until  we  had 
reached  Clark's  the  following  morning.  Clark's  is  twenty- 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite. 


609 


39 


YOSEMTTE  VALLEY. 


G10 


Around  the  World  in  1884- 


six  miles  from  Yosemite  Valley,  where  the  stage-road  from 
Medera,  on  the  Southern  Pacific,  comes  in.  Here  were 
hundreds  of  tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  arriving 
and  departing  every  day.  I  stopped  at  a  magnificent  hotel, 
in  which  I  found  the  people  sitting  around  blazing  fires,  down 
In  a  deep  valley,  with  the  snow-covered  summits  of  the 
mountains  rising  all  around  us.  A  heavy  frost  was  visible 
on  the  16th  of  July. 


SOUTH   DOME — FIVE  THOUSAND  FEET. 

Near  by,  Mr.  Hill,  an  artist  of  national  repute,  has  a 
studio,  where  he  paints  from  nature  marvelous  creations  of 
Yosemite  and  other  views.  A  picture  of  the  valley  was  re- 
cently sold  to  Gov.  Stanford  for  twenty-five  thousand  dol- 
lars, I  was  informed.  Mr.  Hill  showed  us  several  other  very 
fine  works  of  art. 


YO.«EMTTE  FALL?. 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite.  611 

We  are  now  about  ninety  miles  from  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  south-east  of 
San  Francisco.  From  Clark's  we  go  over  to  the  valley  by 
a  six-horse  coach,  driven  by  a  colored  man,  on  an  excel- 
lent road  that  winds  around  and  above  cliffs  and  gorges, 
amidst  the  deep  silence  of  the  grandest  forest  I  ever  saw. 
Half-way  we  change  horses,  and  now  with  new  surprises  at 
every  turn  we  make,  often  at  full  speed  above  chasms  yawn- 
ing thousands  of  feet  below,  we  see  granite  peaks  shooting 
up  above  us  until  we  are  lost  in  contemplation  of  nature's 
wonders.  Our  first  view  of  the  valley  was  from  Sensation 
Point.  To  my  mind  it  resembled  a  long,  wide  opening, 
or  hole,  blown  out  by  dynamite  or  some  great  natural 
forces,  leaving  two  perpendicular  granite  walls  standing  on 
either  side  cf  a  little  green  valley,  scarcely  a  mile  wide, 
three  thousand  feet  below  us.  The  Merced  River  glistened 
like  a  silver  ribbon  meandering  through  it.  By  a  circular 
road  we  descend  at  a  rapid  speed,  going  down,  down,  almost 
straight,  about  five  miles  before  we  reach  the  bottom.  On 
our  right,  above  a  little  bridge  we  cross,  is  the  Po-ho-no — 
Bridal  Veil  Falls — that  leaps  over  a  rocky  precipice  nine 
hundred  feet,  swinging  with  the  wind  its  sheet  of  silver  spray 
amidst  the  grandeur  of  primeval  forest. 

Before  us  rises  in  awful  sublimity  El  Capitan,  a  cliff  of 
solid  granite  without  a  seam  in  it,  thirty-three  hundred 
feet  high.  Here  the  valley  grows  so  narrow  that  if  this 
mighty  monarch  were  to  tumble  over  it  would  hurl  its  awful 
form  across  the  deepened  chasm. 

Opposite  our  hotel  are  the  Yosemite  Falls,  that  leap  over 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  below — a  broad,  white  stream, 
falling  twenty-seven  hundred  feet,  breaking  midway  on  dis- 
integrated bowlders  of  granite,  then  leaping  again  makes 
the  valley,  four  hundred  feet  below. 

From  our  kitchen  window  we  can  catch  trout  in  the  crys- 


612 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


EL  CAPITAN. 


tal  depths  of  the  little  Merced.  Besides  Hutchin's  Hotel, 
where  we  stop,  there  is  Cook's  and  other  houses  near  by. 
The  photograph  artist,  curio-shops,  etc.,  make  up  the  village. 
Early  the  following  morning  we  started  on  a  pedestrian 
tour  up  the  valley  to  Mirror  Lake.  We  crossed  many 
bridges  over  the  Merced,  meandering  amid  its  green  banks, 
leaving  the  gate-way  of  the  valley  behind  us,  the  Cathe- 
dral Group  and  the  Three  Brothers  rising  in  matchless 
grandeur  into  the  heavens.  We  came  upon  the  little  lake 
by  sudden  surprises,  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the  great  Half 
Dome,  away  up  in  a  corner  of  the  valley.  Zurich,  Como, 
Killarney,  and  Lucerne  were  all  forgotten.  I  stood  hushed 
in  a  moment's  expectancy,  watching  intently  in  the  crys- 
tal depths  of  the  lake  for  the  first  reflected  rays  of  the 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite.  613 

sun  rising  over  the  storm-embattled  heights  of  the  Half 
Dome.  It  must  have  been  eight  o'clock  before  the  great 
orb  came  marching  over  its  lofty  brow  with  his  train  of 
purple,  pink,  crimson,  emerald,  violet,  orange,  dun,  and  gold, 
which  were  at  once  reflected  in  gorgeous  frescoes  thousands 
of  feet  below.  The  sun  itself  resembled  a  ball  of  fire. 
I  We  saw  every  leaf,  twig,  and  bending  tree — even  the  gray, 
perpendicular  granite  walls  that  rose  five  thousand  feet 
above  it — mirrored  in  the  transparent  waters  all  at  once. 
In  the  breathless  awe  and  silence  thus  inspired  we  lingered 
until  this  beauty  all  had  gone.  Just  across  rises  the  North 
Dome,  three  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet 
high ;  Clouds  Rest,  six  thousand  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
above  the  valley  and  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 

Retracing  our  steps  to  the  bridge  over  the  river,  we  walk 
up  a  canon  of  the  main  Merced,  filled  with  great  blocks  of 
granite  fallen  from  dizzy  heights,  until  we  climb  along  a 
precipice  under  and  up  over  Vernal  Falls.  Here  below,  in 
the  awful  chasm  of  mists  and  clouds  and  beautiful  rain- 
bows, we  gaze  above  on  lofty  heights  all  covered  with  snow. 
We  are  four  and  a  half  miles  from  Hutchin's  Hotel,  and  a 
mile  and  a  half  above  is  Nevada  Fall,  the  grandest  cat- 
aract in  the  world.  Vernal  Falls  are  four  hundred  feet, 
but  Nevada  leaps  over  a  mountain,  falling  six  hundred  feet 
below. 

Mrs.  Snow  keeps  a  hotel  between  the  two  falls,  in  a  snowy 
region.  Mr.  Snow  was  coming  across  the  mountains  with  a 
saddle-bag  of  provisions.  It  must  all  be  transported  in  this 
way.  His  quaint,  eccentric  spouse  gathers  lichens  and 
pretty  ferns  in  leisure  hours  for  scrap-books  she  sells  to  tour- 
ists. Mr.  Black  attempted  to  interview  her,  but  she  just 
referred  him  to  a  map.  She  did  point  with  pride  to  the 
Cap  of  Liberty,  another  aspiring  dome,  three  thousand  one 
hundred  feet  above  the  valley,  and  directed  our  toiling  steps 


614  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

above  Nevada  around  to  Glacier  Point.  We  climbed  up 
solid  mountains  of  granite,  holding  by  the  bushes  that  grew 
out  of  crevices ;  crossed  several  snow-streams,  at  least  ten 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea;  flushed  deer  and  pheasant 
through  a  wilderness  of  primeval  nature,  walking  twenty- 
nine  miles  in  one  day — about  three  days'  rambling  for  the 
average  tourist.  We  enjoyed  the  grandest  views  of  canons, 
Nevada  and  Vernal  falls,  the  deepest  gorges,  the  loftiest 
mountains,  on  the  way. 

When  we  reached  Glacier  Point  we  were  nearly  exhausted. 
I  was  almost  sick.  I  called  on  the  proprietress  for  calomel. 
She  was  French  (Alsace);  could  not  speak  English  well. 
"O  yes;  just  wait  a  moment;  I  will  have  it  ready  in  a  few 
minutes."  Presently  I  shouted  again.  "  O  yes,  just  hold ; 
it  will  be  ready  toreckly!  One  minute!"  she  screamed. 
But  it  was  the  dinner  she  was  cooking  for  us.  She 
had  never  heard  of  calomel  in  her  life.  So  I  ate  about  two 
dollars'  worth  of  her  eggs,  ham,  coffee,  waffles,  and  pies ;  took 
a  look  down  the  valley  over  the  iron  railing  at  Glacier 
Point,  close  by,  three  thousand  feet  deep;  a  look  at  all  the 
falls,  crags,  and  peaks  (as  for  gorges  we  had  enough),  and 
descended  rapidly  five  miles  on  foot  to  Yosemite  below. 
There  were  the  Cathedral  Spires,  Cathedral  Rock,  Mount 
Star  King,  The  Sentinel,  and  Sentinel  Dome,  that  make  up 
the  tout  ensemble  of  the  valley. 

Returning  to  Clark's  we  visited  the  big  trees,  Mariposa 
Grove,  five  miles  distant,  where  we  beheld  the  Grizzly 
Giant,  thirty-one  feet  in  diameter  and  thirty-one  yards  in 
circumference.  It  is  about  eighty  feet  to  the  first  limb. 
We  drove  through  the  Wawor.a  in  our  four-horse  coach, 
twenty-nine  feet  in  diameter.  The  hole  is  cut  through 
at  the  ground,  about  eight  feet  wide  and  ten  feet  high. 
These  trees  are  over  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  belong  to 
a  species  known  as  sequoia  gigantea,  that  grow  in  the  Sierras 


NEVADA    FALL. 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite. 


615 


ONE  OF  THE  BIG  TREES. 

three  to  four  thousand  feet  high.  There  are  two  groves 
near  together,  the  upper  containing  just  three  hundred  and 
ixty-five  trees.  Another  group  in  Calaveras  and  still  an- 
other in  Fresno  are  the  only  trees  of  this  species  known  in 
the  world.  The  redwood  is  a  coast-range  tree,  and  fur- 
nishes the  most  timber  for  lumber.  The  sugar-pine  is  very 
large,  and  valuable  for  building  material.  Chutes  are  made 
from  the  lofty  Sierras  to  the  railroad,  sixty  miles  long,  into 
which  a  stream  of  water  is  turned  to  float  the  product  of 
the  saw-mills  down  to  the  valley. 

Both  the  Mariposa  and  Yosemite  belong  to  California, 
granted  by  act  of  Congress  in  1864.     I  procured  specimens 


IU6  Around  the  World  in  1884. 

of  bark  eighteen  inches  thick  and  cones  sixteen  inches  long 
near  the  Log-cabin,  in  Mariposa  Grove. 

Mrs.  Langtry  was  just  ahead  of  us.  She  had  created 
great  enthusiasm  and  most  extravagant  laudations  among 
the  stage-drivers,  who  had  been  honored  in  her  visit  to 
Yosemite. 

We  arrived  at  Medera,  south  of  Merced,  by  the  other 
route  to  the  valley,  the  one  mostly  traveled.  We  passed 
through  Fresno,  where  Mr.  Jack  McDonald,  formerly  of 
my  county,  now  resides.  At  Medera  I  met  Judge  Holmes, 
another  Southerner,  who  informed  me  there  were  many 
Southern  people  in  this  part  of  the  State. 

Fresno,  Tulare,  and  Los  Angeles  are  the  counties  that 
grow  the  raisin-grape,  figs,  almonds,  oranges,  and  grapes 
for  wine — of  which  thousands  of  acres  are  devoted  to  its 
culture.  Irrigation  costs  three  dollars  per  acre.  The 
product  of  an  acre  for  wine  is  one  hundred  dollars  net,  or 
more,  in  Fresno  and  Tulare  counties.  Los  Angeles  is  de- 
voted largely  to  orange,  lemon,  raisin,  and  fig  culture.  The 
city  contains  twenty-one  thousand  inhabitants,  embowered 
in  lovely  orange-groves,  pomegranates,  guavas,  citron,  al- 
monds, and  grapes.  Such,  lovely  drives,  bewildering  skies, 
roses  and  fruits  of  every  kind,  can  scarcely  be  found  on 
earth.  Here  are  the  famous  groves  of  the  Stonemans, 
Shorbs,  and  Wilson,  that  will  remind  you  of  an  earthly 
paradise.  Corn  is  largely  grown  in  Los  Angeles,  and  fif- 
teen tons  of  alfalfa  per  acre  has  been  gathered,  and  pump- 
kins weighing  four  hundred  pounds. 

Fifty-eight  miles  still  farther  south  is  Riverside,  in  Ber- 
nardino county — a  dream-land  of  tropical  fruits  and  flowers! 
nestled  at  the  base  of  snow-capped  mountains.  Here  is  an 
avenue  ten  miles  long,  adorned  with  palm,  cypress,  pepper, 
magnolia,  and  eucalyptus  trees,  from  which  peep  out  pretty 
homes  of  wealth  and  culture  amidst  orange-blooms  and 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite.  617 


vines.  Among  her  prominent  names  may  be  mentioned 
Col.  Holt,  of  the  Press  and  Horticulturist,  Mr.  James  Bet- 
ner,  H.  J.  Kudsill,  B.  F.  Allen,  W.  H.  Ball,  E.  G.  Brown, 
W.  E.  Backus,  D.  H.  Burnham,  Jos.  Boyd,  A.  S.  White, 
Mrs.  M.  M.  Emery,  Messrs.  Streeter,  Evans,  Derby,  San- 
ders, Vandergrift,  Hewitt,  Johngon,  Haight,  Hollis,  and 
others.  Thirty  varieties  of  oranges  are  grown. 

Eeturning  to  Lathrop,  we  went  up  the  Sacramento  Val- 
ley, by  Stockton,  to  Sacramento.  Here  we  visited  the  State- 
house,  Mrs.  Crocker's  art-gallery,  and  left  for  our  long 
journey  over  the  Sierras,  Nevada,  Utah,  Salt  Lake  City, 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  Wyoming  by  Cheyenne,  down 
the  Platte  Valley  by  Fort  Laramie  to  Omaha.  We 
cross  the  Missouri  River  to  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa;  then 
through  Burlington  to  Chicago,  Louisville,  Nashville,  Chat- 
tanooga, Atlanta — home.  The  Central  Pacific  extends  from 
Sacramento  to  Ogden,  and  Union  Pacific  from  Ogden  to 
Omaha,  Nebraska.  There  were  Monterey  on  the  sea — 
charming  spot;  Santa  Cruz  Valley,  Santa  Monica,  the 
Geysers,  Prescadero,  the  great  salmon  fisheries  up  the  Sac- 
ramento River;  Lake  Tahoe,  deeper  and  more  beautiful 
than  Como,  on  the  summit  of  the  Sierras ;  Virginia  City, 
Nevada,  and  other  charming  spots,  we  could  not  visit.  For 
nights  and  days  we  traveled  over  treeless  plains,  alkaline 
deserts  of  sage-brush,  where  the  buffalo  was  once  seen. 
Now  the  antelope  turns  its  pretty  head,  and  prairie  dogs 
in  villages  face  our  train.  We  pass  Elko,  Humboldt,*  Sher- 
man— the  highest  point  of  the  road  (eight  thousand  feet) 
—with  lofty  peaks  mantled  with  snow,  far  in  our  rear.  At 
Ogden,  about  half-way,  we  changed  cars  for  a  run  to  Salt 
Lake  City,  twenty-two  miles  down  a  pretty,  fertile  valley, 
in  sight  of  the  lake  all  the  way.  Salt  Lake  City  has  thir- 
ty thousand  population,  all  Mormons  except  five  thousand 
Gentiles.  Stopped  at  the  Walker  House,  visited  the  hot 

*The  proprietor  of  the  hotel  controls  the  water  privileges,  and  has  made  a 
a  fortune  selling  water. 


618 


Around  the  World  in  1884. 


THE  TABERNACLE. 

springs,  baths,  tithe-grounds,  Tabernacle,  cooperation  stores,, 
Brigham  Young's  old  (Lyon)  house,  President  Taylor's  res- 
idence, the  Tribune  office,  Professor  Clayton's  Mineralogical 
Bureau,  and  State  Geologist;  returned  to  Ogden,  resuming 
our  overland  journey  home.  Stopped  at  the  Palmer  House 
in  Chicago ;  saw  Armour  &  Co.  cleaning  hogs  by  machin- 
ery, and  rode  on  the  cable  street-cars. 

Our  voyage  is  drawing  to  a  close.  If  I  could  now  trans- 
fer it  to  canvas,  what  a  gorgeous  panorama  it  would  make! 
jYou  would  behold  Arabs,  Turks,  Hindoos,  Singhalese,  Ma- 
lays, Chinese,  and  Japanese,  in  their  mosques,  temples,  pa- 
godas, joss  houses,  catamarans,  massoolas,  sampans,  junks, 
proas,  and  other  queer  craft;  you  would  see  streets  like 


Sights  in  the  Yosemite.  619 

cork-screws,  lanes  and  alleys  filled  with  millions  of  people 
carrying  baskets  on  their  heads,  chests  of  tea  swinging  from 
each  end  of  bamboo  poles;  dressed  in  pantaloons,  baggy 
trousers,  blue  blouses,  flowing  robes,  long  gowns,  turbans, 
broad  brim  or  steeple-shaped  hats;  millions  wearing  a  loin- 
cloth, with  cues  and  shaved  crowns ;  others  nothing  at  all. 
You  would  see  shaved  heads,  plucked  eyebrows,  painted 
faces,  tattooed  arms  and  legs,  riding  in  sedans,  palanquins, 
or  on  donkeys,  camels,  and  elephants ;  these  and  thousands 
of  other  things  described  in  this  volume. 

The  best  time  to  make  this  voyage  would  be  by  the  west 
(San  Francisco)  in  November,  or  east  in  January  from 
New  York.  You  would  hit  the  seasons  right  then,  at  a 
cost  of  three  thousand  dollars,  first-class.  Six  months'  ab- 
sence is  too  short ;  twelve  months  would  be  better. 

I  came  by  the  Chicago  and  Louisville  Short-line,  and 
spent  one  day  in  Nashville  at.  the  Maxwell  House.  This 
city  is  one  of  the  most  splendidly  constructed  and  beautiful 
in  the  South.  It  boasts  of  the  finest  State  Capitol,  the  best 
publishing  house  (Southern  Methodist),  and  the  most  mag- 
nificent university  (Vanderbilt).  We  met  Dr.  R.  A.  Young, 
Secretary  and  Treasurer  of  the  Foreign  Mission  Board,  a 
man  of  great  financial  ability  and  towering  intellect.  The 
venerable  Agent  of  the  Southern  Methodist  Publishing 
House,  Rev.  J.  B.  McFerrin,  beloved  and  esteemed  through- 
out the  South,  was  still  at  work  in  his  department.  Mr. 
L.  D.  Palmer,  the  present  able  manager  of  the  House,  is  a 
Georgian  and  an  old  student  at  Oxford.  I  did  not  have  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  Dr.  Kelley — who  was  away — the  present 
Treasurer  of  the  Mission  Board  and  former  missionary  in 
China.  Surely  the  Publishing  House  has  fallen  into  safe 
hands.  One  of  the  most  delightful  acquaintances  I  made 
in  Nashville  was  Maj.  W.  L.  Dauley,  the  popular  and  most 
efficient  superintendent  of  the  Nashville  &  St.  Louis  Rail- 


620  Around  the  World  in  188 A. 

road,  Louisville  &  Nashville  and  Nashville  &  Chattanooga 
roads.  The  Major  is  a  most  delightful  gentleman,  and  an 
enthusiastic  worker  in  the  Sunday-school  cause. 

Lebanon,  thirty  miles  north-east,  is  a  fine  old  country 
town,  noted  for  its  colleges,  elegant  private  residences,  sa- 
lubrity of  climate,  and  refined  society.  It  was  once  the 
home  of  Govs.  Wm.  B.  Campbell  and  R.  L.  Caruthers,  and 
there  our  esteemed  friends  Mr.  Sam  Stratton,  Dr.  John  D. 
Owen,  Judge  Williamson,  and  others,  now  reside.  Judge 
Williamson  married  the  widow  of  the  renowned  cavalry 
leader,  Gen.  John  H.  Morgan.  Lebanon  boasts  of  an  ex 
cellent  weekly  newspaper  (the  Herald),  and  several  banks, 
among  its  other  attractions. 

At  Chattanooga  we  were  highly  entertained  by  Capt. 
Gaulding,  superintendent  of  the  observatory  on  top  of 
Hamilton  county's  fine  court-house,  with  a  history  of  me- 
teorological observations  made  at  this  station. 

Mr.  W.  T.  Rogers,  the  popular  passenger  agent,  placed 
me  under  many  obligations  for  appreciated  courtesies. 

A  few  hours  to  Atlanta  by  Dalton,  in  one  of  the  magnifi- 
cent palace  cars  of  the  Western  &  Atlantic  (State)  Georgia 
Railroad — Gov.  Jos.  E.  Brown,  President — ended  my  voy- 
age around  the  world. 

I  had  parted  with  my  beloved  companion,  Sir  John  R. 
G.  Sinclair,  at  the  Palmer  House  in  Chicago,  and  Messrs. 
Hardy  and  Black,  who  proceeded  by  Niagara  Falls  to  New 
York,  en  route  to  Europe. 

Leaving  Atlanta  by  the  magnificent  new  road,  East  Ten- 
nessee, Virginia  &  Georgia — Maj.  Henry  Fink,  Manager — 
we  soon  arrived  at  Macon.  Then  "home,  sweet  home;  there 
is  no  place  like  home."  Left  on  the  1st  of  February,  re- 
turned on  the  1st  of  August — absent  just  six  months. 


ADDENDUM. 

"All 'swell  that  ends  well." 
DEDICATED    TO    THE    P.    G.    IN    G. 

EVERYBODY  remarks,  "  There  she  goes,  the  p.  g.  in  G." 
Every  to\vn  and  village,  every  city  and  hamlet  claims  her 
birthplace — the  prettiest  girl  in  Georgia.  Her  symmet- 
rical form  is  nature's  own  model — full  of  grace,  and  poetry 
in  every  motion.  Aurora  paints  her  cheeks  with  her  blushes 
in  the  morning,  and  heaven  dwells  in  her  lustrous  eye.  She 
never  laughs  or  talks  in  church,  nor  even  looks  behind.  She 
venerates  old  age ;  has  a  class  in  the  Sunday-school ;  is  good 
to  the  poor,  and  never  speaks  unkindly  of  any  one.  She  is 
the  light  of  home,  and  the  joy  of  all  around  her.  She  is 
the  most  ubiquitous  girl  in  Georgia.  The  young  men  go 
crazy  over  her  melting  charms,  and  old  men  raise  their 
glasses  to  take  a  peep.  She  is  modest  and  unassuming,  and 
is  so  pretty  she  does  not  know  herself  how  lovely  she  is. 

There  is  no  such  girl  around  the  world/ 

So  dear  to  me,  as  this  p.  g.  in  G. 
1  am  now  growing  old, 
With  threads  of  silver  among  the  gold; 
Yet  I  never  see  or  chance  to  meet 
This  Georgia  girl,  that 's  e'er  so  sweet, 
But  what  I  feel  I  'd  like  to  be 
Just  young  enough  again  for  the  p.  g.  in  G. 

(621) 

THE  END. 


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